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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,467 --> 00:00:03,202 ♪♪ 2 00:00:07,842 --> 00:00:09,641 SHAPIRO: I remember driving into the valley 3 00:00:09,677 --> 00:00:13,178 and sort of feeling like I had somehow arrived. 4 00:00:13,214 --> 00:00:16,348 There is absolutely magic in that valley. 5 00:00:16,384 --> 00:00:22,287 KLINE: Yosemite is natural beauty on a grand scale. 6 00:00:22,323 --> 00:00:25,124 From the world's most famous vertical wall... 7 00:00:25,159 --> 00:00:26,692 PUTNAM: It's a kilometer deep, 8 00:00:26,727 --> 00:00:30,262 so it's many times taller than the Empire State Building. 9 00:00:30,297 --> 00:00:33,499 KLINE: ...to the earth's largest living trees. 10 00:00:33,534 --> 00:00:34,633 TOM: Over 3,000 years, 11 00:00:34,668 --> 00:00:37,169 think of what a giant sequoia has seen. 12 00:00:37,204 --> 00:00:41,273 KLINE: This snowy range holds secrets both great and small. 13 00:00:44,912 --> 00:00:46,979 And all of them are bound together 14 00:00:47,014 --> 00:00:49,048 by a single source of life. 15 00:00:49,083 --> 00:00:50,949 It's the power of water 16 00:00:50,985 --> 00:00:54,887 that made life in this stone wilderness possible. 17 00:00:54,922 --> 00:00:57,689 But California's climate is changing -- 18 00:00:57,725 --> 00:01:00,926 from flash floods to extreme drought. 19 00:01:03,264 --> 00:01:05,230 How will Yosemite endure 20 00:01:05,266 --> 00:01:08,400 as it faces an uncertain future? 21 00:01:10,104 --> 00:01:13,105 ♪♪ 22 00:01:31,591 --> 00:01:36,028 [ Bird chirping ] 23 00:01:36,063 --> 00:01:39,064 ♪♪ 24 00:01:44,171 --> 00:01:47,039 KLINE: As the glow of pre-dawn light fills Yosemite, 25 00:01:47,074 --> 00:01:49,541 the forests begin to stir. 26 00:01:52,346 --> 00:01:55,481 Before the moon has been properly put to bed, 27 00:01:55,516 --> 00:01:58,717 many who live here enjoy the early quiet 28 00:01:58,752 --> 00:02:00,986 when they still have the valley to themselves. 29 00:02:01,021 --> 00:02:03,989 [ Birds chirping ] 30 00:02:04,024 --> 00:02:07,025 ♪♪ 31 00:02:18,539 --> 00:02:22,341 KLINE: This is the time to rise 32 00:02:22,376 --> 00:02:25,644 and take in the majesty of the High Sierra. 33 00:02:25,679 --> 00:02:28,680 ♪♪ 34 00:02:39,126 --> 00:02:42,060 As sunlight streams across Yosemite Valley, 35 00:02:42,096 --> 00:02:43,896 visitors begin to arrive. 36 00:02:46,834 --> 00:02:51,270 Hang glider pilots are readying their aircraft at Glacier Point. 37 00:02:58,245 --> 00:03:00,546 SHAPIRO: Watching the sun crack the horizon 38 00:03:00,581 --> 00:03:03,148 and light fill in the valley, 39 00:03:03,184 --> 00:03:07,853 it's like you can almost feel the history of the place. 40 00:03:07,888 --> 00:03:09,821 KLINE: Yosemite has become a beacon 41 00:03:09,857 --> 00:03:13,859 for adventurers like Jeff Shapiro. 42 00:03:13,894 --> 00:03:15,694 SHAPIRO: While you're setting up, 43 00:03:15,729 --> 00:03:20,132 the waterfalls across the valley are sort of beckoning. 44 00:03:23,571 --> 00:03:25,470 It's just a place 45 00:03:25,506 --> 00:03:28,840 that is tangibly different 46 00:03:28,876 --> 00:03:30,142 than everywhere else on the planet. 47 00:03:30,177 --> 00:03:33,712 That place holds magic. 48 00:03:33,747 --> 00:03:36,181 Watch that wing tip on that rock. 49 00:03:36,217 --> 00:03:38,650 You know, you check your gear, and you feel prepared, 50 00:03:38,686 --> 00:03:40,385 and you walk out to launch. 51 00:03:48,128 --> 00:03:49,695 You turn the nose into the wind, 52 00:03:49,730 --> 00:03:53,365 and when everything is right, and the conditions feel right... 53 00:03:53,400 --> 00:03:55,000 Clear. 54 00:03:55,035 --> 00:03:56,401 ...it's 10 steps 55 00:03:56,437 --> 00:03:58,303 and into pure freedom. 56 00:04:03,177 --> 00:04:06,178 ♪♪ 57 00:04:11,719 --> 00:04:14,786 You get to fly away like a bird. 58 00:04:14,822 --> 00:04:18,490 KLINE: For those brave enough to take those first few steps, 59 00:04:18,525 --> 00:04:22,127 the reward is breathtaking. 60 00:04:22,162 --> 00:04:25,397 For this is a land of giants. 61 00:04:25,432 --> 00:04:29,301 Stone monoliths far larger than any skyscraper, 62 00:04:29,336 --> 00:04:33,238 and trees bigger than blue whales. 63 00:04:33,274 --> 00:04:36,074 This is the Sierra Nevada. 64 00:04:36,110 --> 00:04:39,745 It stretches the length of California and into Nevada. 65 00:04:42,283 --> 00:04:46,418 Forged by time and shaped by the power of water. 66 00:04:49,256 --> 00:04:53,258 These forces carved out Yosemite's most iconic valley, 67 00:04:53,294 --> 00:04:56,228 gave birth to countless wild rivers, 68 00:04:56,263 --> 00:04:59,831 and made life in this stone wilderness possible. 69 00:05:02,569 --> 00:05:04,069 SHAPIRO: I think we're not meant to fly, 70 00:05:04,104 --> 00:05:06,772 but we all wish we were. 71 00:05:06,807 --> 00:05:09,975 To see it from the view a peregrine would see it 72 00:05:10,010 --> 00:05:11,910 feels pretty special. 73 00:05:11,945 --> 00:05:13,645 [ Wind rushing ] 74 00:05:24,325 --> 00:05:26,224 [ Grunts ] 75 00:05:29,596 --> 00:05:32,097 Whoo! 76 00:05:35,235 --> 00:05:37,636 KLINE: Yosemite owes much of its grandeur 77 00:05:37,738 --> 00:05:40,005 to countless waterfalls, 78 00:05:40,107 --> 00:05:45,977 including the tallest in North America, Yosemite Falls. 79 00:05:46,080 --> 00:05:49,881 And here lies the Sierra's greatest secret. 80 00:05:49,983 --> 00:05:51,883 In an otherwise dry climate, 81 00:05:51,985 --> 00:05:55,687 this snowy range bears the gift of water. 82 00:05:55,789 --> 00:05:58,990 In winter, enough snow accumulates in these mountains 83 00:05:59,093 --> 00:06:05,364 to provide more than 30% of all of California's fresh water. 84 00:06:05,466 --> 00:06:07,799 But as global temperatures rise, 85 00:06:07,901 --> 00:06:10,469 snowpack is shrinking. 86 00:06:10,571 --> 00:06:13,071 To make matters worse, California is in the midst 87 00:06:13,173 --> 00:06:16,208 of a record-breaking drought. 88 00:06:16,310 --> 00:06:20,112 And one critter may be feeling the heat more than most. 89 00:06:23,917 --> 00:06:27,986 This little guy is an American pika. 90 00:06:28,021 --> 00:06:29,354 Although he looks like a rodent, 91 00:06:29,390 --> 00:06:32,424 he's actually the smallest cousin of the rabbit. 92 00:06:35,696 --> 00:06:38,597 But don't be fooled by his cuddly appearance. 93 00:06:38,632 --> 00:06:41,833 Pikas are built for the cold, 94 00:06:41,869 --> 00:06:45,971 and they live in some of the harshest places on Earth, 95 00:06:46,006 --> 00:06:50,275 from the Ural Mountains of Russia to the Himalayas. 96 00:06:50,310 --> 00:06:52,377 Right now, it's spring, 97 00:06:52,413 --> 00:06:55,046 and like the rest of the pikas in this rocky slope, 98 00:06:55,082 --> 00:06:56,882 he's hard at work. 99 00:06:56,917 --> 00:06:59,351 ♪♪ 100 00:06:59,386 --> 00:07:01,186 Pikas don't hibernate, 101 00:07:01,221 --> 00:07:02,621 and that means they'll need to gather 102 00:07:02,656 --> 00:07:06,725 and store enough food for the long, cold winter ahead. 103 00:07:13,100 --> 00:07:15,700 This pika will make up to a hundred trips 104 00:07:15,736 --> 00:07:19,938 in a single day. 105 00:07:19,973 --> 00:07:23,775 Provided they're all no more than 60 feet from home. 106 00:07:28,715 --> 00:07:32,918 And for good reason. 107 00:07:32,953 --> 00:07:36,555 For the little pika, danger is everywhere. 108 00:07:42,129 --> 00:07:43,562 When you're the size of a potato... 109 00:07:43,597 --> 00:07:44,863 [ Pika chirping ] 110 00:07:44,898 --> 00:07:48,900 ...you're on the menu for a lot of the predators here. 111 00:07:48,936 --> 00:07:50,802 At first sight of the coyote, 112 00:07:50,838 --> 00:07:53,271 the little pika calls to warn the others. 113 00:07:53,307 --> 00:07:55,307 [ Chirping ] 114 00:08:05,285 --> 00:08:08,820 But as soon as the coast is clear, 115 00:08:08,856 --> 00:08:11,356 he's back to work. 116 00:08:50,130 --> 00:08:52,597 By mid-summer, the pika's hay piles 117 00:08:52,633 --> 00:08:56,968 have reached enormous proportions -- 118 00:08:57,004 --> 00:09:00,705 so big they dwarf the little pika itself. 119 00:09:11,818 --> 00:09:15,921 But this pika may be preparing for a winter that never comes. 120 00:09:17,991 --> 00:09:20,091 With global temperatures on the rise 121 00:09:20,127 --> 00:09:22,727 and snowpack in decline, 122 00:09:22,763 --> 00:09:27,532 this Ice Age critter is facing an uncertain future, 123 00:09:27,568 --> 00:09:30,068 along with many others that call these mountains home. 124 00:09:30,103 --> 00:09:31,336 [ Birds squawking ] 125 00:09:39,580 --> 00:09:42,581 ♪♪ 126 00:09:50,624 --> 00:09:52,724 SHAPIRO: El Cap is one of the most special places 127 00:09:52,759 --> 00:09:56,127 on the planet for people who love to climb. 128 00:09:56,163 --> 00:09:58,830 It represents the most beautiful piece of rock 129 00:09:58,865 --> 00:10:02,067 that you could possibly find yourself on. 130 00:10:02,102 --> 00:10:04,436 KLINE: No single vertical wall on Earth 131 00:10:04,471 --> 00:10:06,371 is more famous among climbers 132 00:10:06,406 --> 00:10:09,174 than El Capitan. 133 00:10:09,209 --> 00:10:11,109 PUTNAM: It's a kilometer deep, 134 00:10:11,144 --> 00:10:14,813 so it's many times taller than the Empire State Building, 135 00:10:14,848 --> 00:10:18,483 and it displays unique geology. 136 00:10:18,518 --> 00:10:21,353 KLINE: Geologist Roger Putnam and Jeff Shapiro 137 00:10:21,388 --> 00:10:24,456 are preparing for an ascent of El Capitan, 138 00:10:24,491 --> 00:10:26,891 a journey that could take them nearly a week. 139 00:10:26,927 --> 00:10:28,593 SHAPIRO: [ Laughs ] 140 00:10:28,629 --> 00:10:30,562 The pig. 141 00:10:30,597 --> 00:10:32,097 PUTNAM: The pig. 142 00:10:32,132 --> 00:10:35,834 The thought of climbing El Cap to people in the early '50s 143 00:10:35,869 --> 00:10:38,970 or even up until it was first climbed in 1958, 144 00:10:39,006 --> 00:10:40,305 it seemed like the impossible. 145 00:10:40,340 --> 00:10:43,008 It seemed just as remote as getting someone to the moon, 146 00:10:43,043 --> 00:10:46,678 because the techniques for climbing cliffs that big 147 00:10:46,713 --> 00:10:50,448 didn't exist. 148 00:10:50,484 --> 00:10:53,351 Climbers come from all over the world to climb on El Cap, 149 00:10:53,387 --> 00:10:56,154 because of this particularly hard rock 150 00:10:56,189 --> 00:10:58,223 that can build up all those stresses 151 00:10:58,258 --> 00:11:02,427 and create those long, beautiful, perfect fractures. 152 00:11:02,462 --> 00:11:06,331 I look at El Cap, and I see this complex history of weathering 153 00:11:06,366 --> 00:11:08,867 and erosion which made it look the way it does 154 00:11:08,902 --> 00:11:12,070 and continues to shape it to this day. 155 00:11:12,105 --> 00:11:14,673 Water played a significant role 156 00:11:14,708 --> 00:11:17,242 in almost every part of the evolution 157 00:11:17,277 --> 00:11:19,878 of El Capitan and Yosemite Valley. 158 00:11:22,349 --> 00:11:23,982 Water played a crucial role 159 00:11:24,017 --> 00:11:28,186 in actually carving out these beautiful valleys, 160 00:11:28,221 --> 00:11:29,788 and then glaciers polished 161 00:11:29,823 --> 00:11:33,158 and refined them into their iconic shapes. 162 00:11:38,065 --> 00:11:42,801 El Cap was shaped within the past 1.8 million years, 163 00:11:42,836 --> 00:11:46,471 and the rock was formed about 100 million years ago. 164 00:11:46,506 --> 00:11:49,140 That's when the dinosaurs were around. 165 00:11:52,446 --> 00:11:54,412 Super common thing. 166 00:11:54,448 --> 00:11:56,848 So the feature that I'm standing on is 167 00:11:56,883 --> 00:11:59,250 one of those exfoliation flakes. 168 00:11:59,286 --> 00:12:00,585 [ Pounding ] 169 00:12:00,620 --> 00:12:02,921 Hear that noise? 170 00:12:02,956 --> 00:12:05,090 And it puts things into perspective. 171 00:12:05,125 --> 00:12:07,092 When you climb a rock that big 172 00:12:07,127 --> 00:12:10,228 and spend this much time around something that's this big, 173 00:12:10,263 --> 00:12:13,798 you feel really small. 174 00:12:13,834 --> 00:12:17,869 I think about how small I am all the time. 175 00:12:17,904 --> 00:12:20,138 How physically small I am and then how small I am 176 00:12:20,173 --> 00:12:23,108 in terms of geologic time. 177 00:12:23,143 --> 00:12:26,144 ♪♪ 178 00:12:30,617 --> 00:12:34,819 KLINE: Roger and Jeff set camp for the night. 179 00:12:34,855 --> 00:12:39,858 This is just the first of many before they reach the summit. 180 00:12:39,893 --> 00:12:42,093 SHAPIRO: You mind sleeping on the inside or outside or what? 181 00:12:42,129 --> 00:12:45,563 PUTNAM: Oh, I don't care. 182 00:12:45,599 --> 00:12:48,867 KLINE: It's easy to feel small in Yosemite. 183 00:12:48,902 --> 00:12:51,770 It has a way of putting everything in perspective. 184 00:12:51,805 --> 00:12:54,806 ♪♪ 185 00:13:11,024 --> 00:13:14,259 PUTNAM: El Cap is a source of inspiration academically, 186 00:13:14,294 --> 00:13:15,960 mentally, physically, 187 00:13:15,996 --> 00:13:19,397 and it's also a source of gravitas. 188 00:13:27,174 --> 00:13:30,341 KLINE: It's the last leg of Jeff and Roger's climb, 189 00:13:30,377 --> 00:13:33,912 but they are not quite ready to end their journey. 190 00:13:33,947 --> 00:13:35,113 SHAPIRO: For me, laying on a portaledge 191 00:13:35,148 --> 00:13:36,281 and waking up in the morning 192 00:13:36,316 --> 00:13:38,049 and looking at the valley peaceful 193 00:13:38,084 --> 00:13:41,052 and, you know, sort of quiet in those morning hours, 194 00:13:41,087 --> 00:13:42,520 there's no place I'd rather be. 195 00:13:42,556 --> 00:13:45,023 It's a unique place to be. It feels like it was earned. 196 00:13:45,058 --> 00:13:46,858 It feels so close to civilization, 197 00:13:46,893 --> 00:13:49,494 but so far away, you know. 198 00:13:49,529 --> 00:13:52,530 ♪♪ 199 00:13:56,269 --> 00:13:58,603 PUTNAM: Yeah, buddy! 200 00:14:02,242 --> 00:14:03,975 Yeah! 201 00:14:04,010 --> 00:14:07,078 Well done! 202 00:14:10,650 --> 00:14:13,084 KLINE: Another arid summer unfolds, 203 00:14:13,119 --> 00:14:17,355 as drought persists. 204 00:14:17,390 --> 00:14:19,524 Temperatures continue to rise, 205 00:14:19,559 --> 00:14:23,361 and forests are dying at an unprecedented rate. 206 00:14:23,396 --> 00:14:25,864 Across the state, the number of dead trees 207 00:14:25,899 --> 00:14:30,301 has now passed 100 million. 208 00:14:30,337 --> 00:14:32,470 And this sparks another problem... 209 00:14:32,505 --> 00:14:35,206 [ Fire crackling ] 210 00:14:35,242 --> 00:14:37,475 Wildfires. 211 00:14:37,510 --> 00:14:39,811 [ Radio chatter ] 212 00:14:39,846 --> 00:14:41,713 [ Helicopter blades whirring ] 213 00:14:41,748 --> 00:14:43,081 [ Radio chatter ] 214 00:14:52,692 --> 00:14:55,026 KLINE: A century of fire suppression 215 00:14:55,061 --> 00:14:58,129 has created unnaturally dense stands, 216 00:14:58,164 --> 00:15:00,798 now filled with dead trees. 217 00:15:03,136 --> 00:15:05,970 Making an already volatile situation 218 00:15:06,006 --> 00:15:07,705 even more explosive. 219 00:15:12,512 --> 00:15:13,878 By the end of summer, 220 00:15:13,914 --> 00:15:15,313 this will have been one of the most 221 00:15:15,348 --> 00:15:18,483 damaging wildfire seasons on record. 222 00:15:18,518 --> 00:15:21,719 [ Fire crackling ] 223 00:15:21,755 --> 00:15:24,756 ♪♪ 224 00:15:28,995 --> 00:15:32,363 Yet fire is a natural part of the ecosystem, 225 00:15:32,399 --> 00:15:34,732 and certain species depend upon fire 226 00:15:34,768 --> 00:15:36,467 for their very survival. 227 00:15:40,674 --> 00:15:42,206 These black-backed woodpeckers 228 00:15:42,242 --> 00:15:45,376 are drawn to recently charred forests. 229 00:15:45,412 --> 00:15:48,379 It's their best chance for a meal. 230 00:15:48,415 --> 00:15:50,148 They'll seek out woodboring beetles 231 00:15:50,183 --> 00:15:52,984 in the remains of these trees. 232 00:15:56,256 --> 00:15:59,257 These scorched forests are far from dead. 233 00:15:59,292 --> 00:16:01,859 They are, in fact, new habitat, 234 00:16:01,895 --> 00:16:04,529 equally vibrant and vital. 235 00:16:07,500 --> 00:16:09,567 Only recently have we begun to develop 236 00:16:09,602 --> 00:16:12,670 a deeper appreciation for the role fire plays 237 00:16:12,706 --> 00:16:16,274 in the evolution of many species, 238 00:16:16,309 --> 00:16:18,076 from the black-backed woodpeckers 239 00:16:18,111 --> 00:16:20,945 to the world's largest living trees. 240 00:16:20,981 --> 00:16:23,982 ♪♪ 241 00:16:29,089 --> 00:16:34,659 Sequoia National Park is home to a forest of giants. 242 00:16:36,029 --> 00:16:38,396 NATE: I am so energized by these forests here. 243 00:16:38,431 --> 00:16:40,765 I'm a forest nut. 244 00:16:40,800 --> 00:16:44,002 And the big trees give me goose bumps every time I see them 245 00:16:44,037 --> 00:16:48,673 even though I've been seeing them for more than 35 years now. 246 00:16:48,708 --> 00:16:51,376 KLINE: Nate Stephenson is a forest ecologist 247 00:16:51,411 --> 00:16:53,911 with the U.S. Geological Survey. 248 00:16:53,947 --> 00:16:57,515 He has a unique understanding of the crucial part fire plays 249 00:16:57,550 --> 00:17:00,518 in the life cycle of giant sequoias. 250 00:17:00,553 --> 00:17:03,921 NATE: So, the bark of giant sequoias is remarkably thick. 251 00:17:03,957 --> 00:17:05,289 [ Tree thuds ] 252 00:17:05,325 --> 00:17:07,959 And it's very fibrous, and it's fire resistant. 253 00:17:07,994 --> 00:17:09,761 So when you have that much thickness there, 254 00:17:09,796 --> 00:17:12,130 some of it might burn off during a fire, 255 00:17:12,165 --> 00:17:14,832 but there is enough left over to protect the tree. 256 00:17:14,868 --> 00:17:17,635 Fire has been burning at the base of giant sequoias 257 00:17:17,670 --> 00:17:20,338 probably for millions of years, 258 00:17:20,373 --> 00:17:23,374 and this is one of the sequoia's responses to that. 259 00:17:23,410 --> 00:17:25,476 To take advantage of the fire in one sense 260 00:17:25,512 --> 00:17:28,713 and then to protect itself from fire. 261 00:17:28,748 --> 00:17:33,251 KLINE: Giant sequoias are the largest trees on Earth. 262 00:17:33,286 --> 00:17:38,056 They can grow for more than 3,000 years. 263 00:17:38,091 --> 00:17:42,126 But without fire, they cannot reproduce. 264 00:17:42,162 --> 00:17:45,329 NATE: The giant sequoias really are born of fire. 265 00:17:45,365 --> 00:17:49,467 Fire gives them three things they need for regeneration. 266 00:17:49,502 --> 00:17:52,637 The first one is, it punches a hole in the forest. 267 00:17:54,941 --> 00:17:56,641 That allows there to be more light 268 00:17:56,676 --> 00:18:00,244 and more water for the sequoia seedlings. 269 00:18:00,280 --> 00:18:02,880 The second thing it does is it heats the cones up 270 00:18:02,916 --> 00:18:06,350 in the mature sequoia trees without harming the trees. 271 00:18:08,755 --> 00:18:10,421 And those cones open up. 272 00:18:10,457 --> 00:18:13,458 ♪♪ 273 00:18:16,229 --> 00:18:19,163 And there's a rain of seeds on the ground. 274 00:18:27,740 --> 00:18:30,441 And the final thing it's done is it cleared away 275 00:18:30,477 --> 00:18:32,410 all the leaves that have built up. 276 00:18:32,445 --> 00:18:36,047 Because sequoia seeds need to hit bare mineral soil 277 00:18:36,082 --> 00:18:38,916 before they can germinate and survive well. 278 00:18:38,952 --> 00:18:41,953 ♪♪ 279 00:18:47,427 --> 00:18:49,594 Then the winter storms come in and bury them 280 00:18:49,629 --> 00:18:51,395 in a blanket of snow. 281 00:18:57,203 --> 00:19:00,872 And then when the spring comes, they have the ideal conditions. 282 00:19:00,907 --> 00:19:04,075 It's warmer. It's really wet, 283 00:19:04,110 --> 00:19:07,145 and those seeds will take off and become seedlings. 284 00:19:07,180 --> 00:19:10,181 ♪♪ 285 00:19:17,023 --> 00:19:19,724 KLINE: From their birth among the ashes, 286 00:19:19,759 --> 00:19:23,528 these seedlings have become the groves we see today... 287 00:19:25,532 --> 00:19:28,466 ...with trees nearly 300 feet tall. 288 00:19:30,637 --> 00:19:33,337 NATE: Over 3,000 years, think of what a giant sequoia has seen. 289 00:19:33,373 --> 00:19:37,141 How many times did Native Americans sit at the base, 290 00:19:37,177 --> 00:19:41,846 have lunch, look up, and marvel at the crown of the sequoia? 291 00:19:41,881 --> 00:19:43,447 And now we're doing it again today. 292 00:19:43,483 --> 00:19:46,050 It's humans just living their lives 293 00:19:46,085 --> 00:19:47,919 under these trees for millennia. 294 00:19:47,954 --> 00:19:50,955 ♪♪ 295 00:20:19,185 --> 00:20:22,620 [ Birds chirping ] 296 00:20:22,655 --> 00:20:24,889 KLINE: These ancient groves provide a home 297 00:20:24,924 --> 00:20:27,325 for a diversity of wildlife... 298 00:20:29,629 --> 00:20:34,098 ...that often goes unnoticed. 299 00:20:34,133 --> 00:20:35,800 A family of yellow-bellied marmots 300 00:20:35,835 --> 00:20:37,802 has taken up residence at the base 301 00:20:37,837 --> 00:20:41,205 of this giant sequoia. 302 00:20:41,241 --> 00:20:43,541 These little guys are spring pups, 303 00:20:43,576 --> 00:20:46,744 and they're just beginning to explore their world. 304 00:20:49,415 --> 00:20:53,417 Cautiously at first. 305 00:20:53,453 --> 00:20:55,253 They are part of an extended family 306 00:20:55,288 --> 00:20:59,223 of a dozen individuals or maybe more. 307 00:20:59,259 --> 00:21:01,492 And right now, they're sticking close 308 00:21:01,527 --> 00:21:03,561 to their brothers and sisters. 309 00:21:06,532 --> 00:21:08,966 While some adults are keeping a watchful eye, 310 00:21:09,002 --> 00:21:11,335 the rest are fattening up for winter. 311 00:21:13,806 --> 00:21:17,241 During the summer, marmots eat at a frenzied pace. 312 00:21:17,277 --> 00:21:22,013 [ Birds chirping ] 313 00:21:22,048 --> 00:21:24,882 They can spend nine months of the year hibernating, 314 00:21:24,917 --> 00:21:27,585 so storing up enough fat is vital. 315 00:21:31,958 --> 00:21:34,158 And some marmots will have doubled their body weight 316 00:21:34,193 --> 00:21:36,694 by the end of summer. 317 00:21:40,099 --> 00:21:42,700 The little ones don't seem to have the same urgency 318 00:21:42,735 --> 00:21:45,403 to fill up as their parents do, 319 00:21:45,438 --> 00:21:48,172 but they'll need to learn quick. 320 00:21:48,207 --> 00:21:50,174 Without enough fat reserves, 321 00:21:50,209 --> 00:21:53,144 they won't make it through the winter. 322 00:21:53,179 --> 00:21:56,213 Before they really get started, 323 00:21:56,249 --> 00:21:58,316 their mealtime is cut short. 324 00:21:58,351 --> 00:22:00,951 Something is coming. 325 00:22:03,456 --> 00:22:06,390 It's a black bear. 326 00:22:06,426 --> 00:22:08,626 [ Bear growls ] 327 00:22:11,197 --> 00:22:14,365 A marmot sounds the alarm to alert the colony. 328 00:22:14,400 --> 00:22:17,401 [ Marmot chirping ] 329 00:22:19,972 --> 00:22:24,308 But the bear pays little attention to the marmots. 330 00:22:28,815 --> 00:22:30,781 Fattening up on these fresh fir shoots 331 00:22:30,817 --> 00:22:33,984 is a far easier way to prepare for the coming winter. 332 00:22:42,362 --> 00:22:44,795 Here wildlife can live out their lives 333 00:22:44,831 --> 00:22:46,731 relatively undisturbed. 334 00:22:50,103 --> 00:22:51,902 And this is no accident. 335 00:22:51,938 --> 00:22:53,504 Yosemite, along with Sequoia 336 00:22:53,539 --> 00:22:55,740 and Kings Canyon National Parks, 337 00:22:55,775 --> 00:22:58,776 are the Sierra's greatest sanctuaries... 338 00:23:04,650 --> 00:23:06,884 ...protecting critical habitat 339 00:23:06,919 --> 00:23:11,255 and restoring species once thought lost. 340 00:23:11,290 --> 00:23:15,126 Peregrine falcons, long absent from these mountains, 341 00:23:15,161 --> 00:23:17,795 have returned home to nest once again 342 00:23:17,830 --> 00:23:19,730 on the cliffsides of the Sierra. 343 00:23:19,766 --> 00:23:22,133 [ Falcons keening ] 344 00:23:22,168 --> 00:23:25,169 ♪♪ 345 00:23:27,273 --> 00:23:30,074 And they are not alone. 346 00:23:30,109 --> 00:23:32,243 One of the Sierra's greatest icons 347 00:23:32,278 --> 00:23:34,678 is staging its return. 348 00:23:34,714 --> 00:23:37,715 ♪♪ 349 00:23:42,522 --> 00:23:45,523 [ Device beeping ] 350 00:23:50,630 --> 00:23:53,631 No animal embodies the wildness of this range 351 00:23:53,666 --> 00:23:57,101 more than the Sierra Nevada bighorn sheep. 352 00:23:59,138 --> 00:24:00,738 John Muir called them 353 00:24:00,773 --> 00:24:04,909 "the bravest of all Sierra Mountaineers." 354 00:24:04,944 --> 00:24:08,612 FEW: People talk about them being icons of wilderness. 355 00:24:08,648 --> 00:24:11,382 They're tough. 356 00:24:11,417 --> 00:24:13,918 They sit out lightning storms 357 00:24:13,953 --> 00:24:16,620 on alpine ridges. 358 00:24:16,656 --> 00:24:20,257 Yosemite is full of steep, craggy, rocky landscapes, 359 00:24:20,293 --> 00:24:24,662 and that's exactly where bighorn sheep thrive. 360 00:24:24,697 --> 00:24:25,830 KLINE: This makes the job of 361 00:24:25,865 --> 00:24:28,532 the Sierra Bighorn Sheep Recovery Program 362 00:24:28,568 --> 00:24:30,734 a constant challenge. 363 00:24:30,770 --> 00:24:33,704 Today, Alex Few and Tom Stephenson 364 00:24:33,739 --> 00:24:35,172 are in the Eastern Sierra, 365 00:24:35,208 --> 00:24:36,674 trying to determine just 366 00:24:36,709 --> 00:24:40,845 how many sheep are in this vast range. 367 00:24:40,880 --> 00:24:43,781 FEW: There were once about 10,000 Sierra bighorn, 368 00:24:43,816 --> 00:24:46,517 and they're one distinct subspecies of bighorn 369 00:24:46,552 --> 00:24:50,221 of three found in North America. 370 00:24:50,256 --> 00:24:52,490 KLINE: Bighorns rely on the strength 371 00:24:52,525 --> 00:24:55,092 of the herd to survive. 372 00:24:55,127 --> 00:24:57,294 From the time they're born, 373 00:24:57,330 --> 00:24:59,296 they have less than 48 hours 374 00:24:59,332 --> 00:25:01,665 to keep up with mom and the rest of the herd 375 00:25:01,701 --> 00:25:06,270 across these jagged cliffs. 376 00:25:06,305 --> 00:25:10,374 [ Wind howling ] 377 00:25:10,409 --> 00:25:13,978 Life in these mountains can be a test of extremes. 378 00:25:14,013 --> 00:25:16,847 [ Thunder rumbling ] 379 00:25:16,883 --> 00:25:19,283 Flash floods and lightning storms one day 380 00:25:19,318 --> 00:25:20,851 can be followed by months 381 00:25:20,887 --> 00:25:24,288 or even years of bone-dry conditions. 382 00:25:29,195 --> 00:25:30,628 Yet the Sierra bighorns 383 00:25:30,663 --> 00:25:33,297 were undaunted by these extremes. 384 00:25:35,935 --> 00:25:40,371 That would all change with a single event. 385 00:25:43,376 --> 00:25:46,110 The discovery of gold in the mid-1800's 386 00:25:46,145 --> 00:25:48,412 put the Sierra Nevada on the map. 387 00:25:48,447 --> 00:25:51,015 And thousands of settlers began to move west. 388 00:25:51,050 --> 00:25:53,651 [ Sheep bleating ] 389 00:25:53,686 --> 00:25:56,554 With them came millions of domestic sheep. 390 00:25:58,925 --> 00:26:03,060 But these sheep would prove to be the bighorns' Kryptonite. 391 00:26:03,095 --> 00:26:05,896 With no resistance to the diseases they carried, 392 00:26:05,932 --> 00:26:08,732 bighorn populations would plummet, 393 00:26:08,768 --> 00:26:12,603 disappearing entirely from Yosemite's high country. 394 00:26:13,873 --> 00:26:15,272 By the 1990s, 395 00:26:15,308 --> 00:26:18,976 only 100 bighorns were scattered across the Sierra. 396 00:26:20,513 --> 00:26:22,479 TOM: There became a tremendous amount 397 00:26:22,515 --> 00:26:24,682 of concern about the potential 398 00:26:24,717 --> 00:26:26,650 for the population to go extinct, 399 00:26:26,686 --> 00:26:29,987 and recovery efforts were undertaken. 400 00:26:30,022 --> 00:26:31,255 KLINE: Their goal -- 401 00:26:31,290 --> 00:26:34,425 to restore Sierra bighorns to their former range. 402 00:26:37,296 --> 00:26:40,631 FEW: Bighorn sheep are really slow to colonize new habitat, 403 00:26:40,666 --> 00:26:44,201 so we have to help them get there. 404 00:26:44,236 --> 00:26:47,805 KLINE: Bighorns are placed in large metal transport crates 405 00:26:47,840 --> 00:26:51,609 and flown into the heart of Yosemite's high country. 406 00:26:51,644 --> 00:26:53,177 As simple as it seems, 407 00:26:53,212 --> 00:26:55,412 this moment is the culmination 408 00:26:55,448 --> 00:26:59,116 of years of preparation for Alex and her crew. 409 00:27:04,857 --> 00:27:07,458 While some are eager for their new freedom, 410 00:27:10,296 --> 00:27:12,763 others are more hesitant. 411 00:27:16,168 --> 00:27:18,602 FEW: When we opened the gate, 412 00:27:18,638 --> 00:27:24,441 I felt this overwhelming sense of pride and hope. 413 00:27:25,678 --> 00:27:27,277 KLINE: Thanks to these recovery efforts, 414 00:27:27,313 --> 00:27:31,915 there are now 600 sheep in the Sierra Nevada. 415 00:27:31,951 --> 00:27:33,584 For the first time in a century, 416 00:27:33,619 --> 00:27:35,919 bighorns have reclaimed their rightful place 417 00:27:35,955 --> 00:27:37,788 in Yosemite's high country. 418 00:27:40,459 --> 00:27:42,292 This is just one more step 419 00:27:42,328 --> 00:27:44,128 in returning Yosemite's wilderness 420 00:27:44,163 --> 00:27:47,031 to the wild things that once called it home. 421 00:27:47,066 --> 00:27:50,067 ♪♪ 422 00:28:08,320 --> 00:28:10,020 As the drought stretches through summer 423 00:28:10,056 --> 00:28:12,489 with no relief in sight, 424 00:28:12,525 --> 00:28:14,758 these continued arid days 425 00:28:14,794 --> 00:28:18,095 are threatening another icon of the Sierra. 426 00:28:25,905 --> 00:28:27,971 NATE: What has really pushed this drought 427 00:28:28,007 --> 00:28:29,740 into new terrain for severity 428 00:28:29,775 --> 00:28:33,544 is the increased temperature. 429 00:28:33,579 --> 00:28:36,580 KLINE: Temperatures rising from climate change 430 00:28:36,615 --> 00:28:39,483 have amplified the drought's effects. 431 00:28:39,518 --> 00:28:42,886 NATE: It increases the evaporative power of the atmosphere. 432 00:28:42,922 --> 00:28:45,923 So the atmosphere is pulling more water out of the plants 433 00:28:45,958 --> 00:28:48,926 than it would normally. 434 00:28:48,961 --> 00:28:51,528 With that, we are seeing things happen in giant sequoias 435 00:28:51,564 --> 00:28:54,698 that have never been reported before. 436 00:28:54,734 --> 00:28:56,433 KLINE: Sequoias are losing foliage 437 00:28:56,469 --> 00:28:58,602 at an unprecedented rate, 438 00:28:58,637 --> 00:29:03,240 in some cases more than half the tree. 439 00:29:03,275 --> 00:29:05,476 In order to better understand the impact, 440 00:29:05,511 --> 00:29:08,245 researcher Anthony Ambrose and his team 441 00:29:08,280 --> 00:29:11,749 need to look high up in the canopy of these giants. 442 00:29:11,784 --> 00:29:14,785 ♪♪ 443 00:29:35,307 --> 00:29:36,740 AMBROSE: We're going to collect some leaf samples 444 00:29:36,776 --> 00:29:40,611 from the top of the tree and the base of the crown 445 00:29:40,646 --> 00:29:42,913 to measure the water status of the tree 446 00:29:42,948 --> 00:29:47,084 and to get a better idea of how stressed they are. 447 00:29:50,055 --> 00:29:52,022 KLINE: The tree acts as a timeline 448 00:29:52,057 --> 00:29:54,024 stretching back thousands of years, 449 00:29:54,059 --> 00:29:55,292 and the further up you go, 450 00:29:55,327 --> 00:29:59,062 the closer you get to the effects of today. 451 00:29:59,098 --> 00:30:02,599 The team continuously monitors these sequoias to determine 452 00:30:02,635 --> 00:30:05,903 how they are faring as their most crucial resource, 453 00:30:05,938 --> 00:30:09,773 water, is in diminishing supply. 454 00:30:09,809 --> 00:30:11,875 AMBROSE: These trees we've measured use 455 00:30:11,911 --> 00:30:14,311 between 500 and 800 gallons of water 456 00:30:14,346 --> 00:30:16,780 a single day in the summertime. 457 00:30:16,816 --> 00:30:19,616 Which is just a phenomenal amount of water. 458 00:30:19,652 --> 00:30:21,251 That all gets supplied 459 00:30:21,287 --> 00:30:23,754 by the snowmelt here in the Sierra Nevada. 460 00:30:23,789 --> 00:30:25,222 The snowpack is a really, 461 00:30:25,257 --> 00:30:29,693 really important water source for the giant sequoia forest. 462 00:30:35,000 --> 00:30:38,101 We put the leaf end in this chamber here 463 00:30:38,137 --> 00:30:39,403 and pressurize it slowly, 464 00:30:39,438 --> 00:30:43,140 and as soon as the water comes up onto the surface, 465 00:30:43,175 --> 00:30:46,677 we record how much pressure it took to push the water out. 466 00:30:46,712 --> 00:30:48,145 Negative 1.9. 467 00:30:48,180 --> 00:30:49,813 So the measurements that we've been getting so far 468 00:30:49,849 --> 00:30:53,417 over the last couple weeks is indicating 469 00:30:53,452 --> 00:30:57,955 that they are definitely at stress levels greater 470 00:30:57,990 --> 00:31:02,793 then we've ever measured in giant sequoias before. 471 00:31:02,828 --> 00:31:04,828 This is the first time that I've ever been 472 00:31:04,864 --> 00:31:06,296 climbing in these trees 473 00:31:06,332 --> 00:31:10,801 and actually observed anything that's noticeable stress. 474 00:31:10,836 --> 00:31:14,771 So it is kind of upsetting in a way. 475 00:31:14,807 --> 00:31:16,840 But I take some comfort in the fact, 476 00:31:16,876 --> 00:31:19,076 knowing that these are really tough trees. 477 00:31:19,111 --> 00:31:22,012 They're really resilient, and they've dealt with 478 00:31:22,047 --> 00:31:23,313 droughts and fires 479 00:31:23,349 --> 00:31:27,551 and other really extreme conditions in the past. 480 00:31:27,586 --> 00:31:30,821 With temperatures continuing to increase, 481 00:31:30,856 --> 00:31:33,624 they may reach some tipping point. 482 00:31:33,659 --> 00:31:36,560 And that's what we're trying to learn. 483 00:31:36,595 --> 00:31:39,596 At what point is it too much for them to recover? 484 00:31:45,771 --> 00:31:47,304 KLINE: As summer comes to a close, 485 00:31:47,339 --> 00:31:50,140 cool autumn breezes bring relief 486 00:31:50,175 --> 00:31:52,643 to a parched Yosemite Valley. 487 00:32:00,586 --> 00:32:03,921 In the high country, it's the beginning of the rut -- 488 00:32:03,956 --> 00:32:06,590 mating season for bighorn sheep. 489 00:32:09,995 --> 00:32:13,830 These young rams are assessing each other's strengths 490 00:32:13,866 --> 00:32:16,400 and weaknesses. 491 00:32:24,710 --> 00:32:28,645 Male bighorn sheep live in a highly competitive world. 492 00:32:33,786 --> 00:32:38,522 These competitions are a way of establishing dominance. 493 00:32:38,557 --> 00:32:43,126 Their ranking may ultimately determine who gets to breed. 494 00:32:45,497 --> 00:32:48,632 It's an enormous expenditure of energy, 495 00:32:48,667 --> 00:32:50,300 but it's the price of admission 496 00:32:50,336 --> 00:32:52,769 if this young ram hopes to mate. 497 00:32:59,211 --> 00:33:00,911 In the Eastern Sierra, 498 00:33:00,946 --> 00:33:06,049 fall colors unfold with a dusting of snow -- 499 00:33:06,085 --> 00:33:09,553 a promising sign in an otherwise dry autumn. 500 00:33:16,662 --> 00:33:19,730 Water has become an increasingly scarce commodity. 501 00:33:19,765 --> 00:33:22,733 [ Birds chirping ] 502 00:33:25,804 --> 00:33:30,273 And places where water persists are now critically important. 503 00:33:43,789 --> 00:33:45,789 Despite autumn's light snowfall, 504 00:33:45,824 --> 00:33:47,190 bone-dry conditions 505 00:33:47,226 --> 00:33:49,493 continue to plague the Sierra. 506 00:33:49,528 --> 00:33:51,528 [ Woodpecker tapping ] 507 00:33:59,271 --> 00:34:02,739 But now, as winter approaches, a storm front is building. 508 00:34:02,775 --> 00:34:06,676 [ Thunder rumbles ] 509 00:34:06,712 --> 00:34:09,813 Cool wind sweeps across the valley, 510 00:34:09,848 --> 00:34:13,150 extinguishing the heat. 511 00:34:13,185 --> 00:34:15,485 And for the first time in far too long, 512 00:34:15,521 --> 00:34:18,755 the air is heavy with moisture. 513 00:34:25,397 --> 00:34:27,397 [ Thunder rumbling ] 514 00:34:34,406 --> 00:34:37,407 ♪♪ 515 00:34:39,478 --> 00:34:42,646 As temperatures drop, the chill in the high country gives way 516 00:34:42,681 --> 00:34:45,715 to the first big snow of the season. 517 00:34:45,751 --> 00:34:48,752 ♪♪ 518 00:34:59,398 --> 00:35:02,666 After a long hiatus, 519 00:35:02,701 --> 00:35:05,435 winter has returned to Yosemite. 520 00:35:13,245 --> 00:35:16,246 Waterfalls collect icicles along their edges. 521 00:35:18,450 --> 00:35:22,519 And streams become a thick slurry of snow and ice. 522 00:35:26,358 --> 00:35:29,226 Lakes freeze under a blanket of fresh snow. 523 00:35:29,261 --> 00:35:33,029 [ Coyote yipping ] 524 00:35:33,065 --> 00:35:36,833 Life in the valley seems to pause as winter takes hold. 525 00:35:36,869 --> 00:35:39,870 ♪♪ 526 00:35:56,155 --> 00:35:59,289 Yosemite takes on a fairy-tale quality 527 00:35:59,324 --> 00:36:02,893 that seems both benevolent and menacing. 528 00:36:02,928 --> 00:36:05,929 ♪♪ 529 00:36:12,504 --> 00:36:15,438 Animals waste no time preparing for a winter 530 00:36:15,474 --> 00:36:17,741 that is suddenly upon them. 531 00:36:17,776 --> 00:36:20,644 Deer forage for what little remains. 532 00:36:24,616 --> 00:36:27,317 And squirrels harvest the last of the pine nuts 533 00:36:27,352 --> 00:36:30,420 before they are buried by the quickly falling snow. 534 00:36:30,455 --> 00:36:32,455 [ Coyotes yipping ] 535 00:36:41,099 --> 00:36:44,100 A pair of coyotes tiptoes through fresh snowdrifts, 536 00:36:44,136 --> 00:36:46,102 searching for voles. 537 00:36:56,481 --> 00:36:59,649 It takes skill to catch something you can't see. 538 00:37:08,727 --> 00:37:12,395 And patience not to let your food know you're coming. 539 00:37:18,770 --> 00:37:20,770 [ Snow crunches ] 540 00:37:25,677 --> 00:37:27,677 [ Vole chirping ] 541 00:37:35,554 --> 00:37:37,554 [ Vole chirping ] 542 00:37:49,868 --> 00:37:53,770 But if you stick with it, 543 00:37:53,805 --> 00:37:57,440 the reward is well worth it. 544 00:37:57,476 --> 00:38:00,310 'Cause at the end of the day, in Yosemite Valley, 545 00:38:00,345 --> 00:38:02,779 it's every coyote for himself. 546 00:38:16,261 --> 00:38:18,662 A pika takes advantage of a break in the snowfall 547 00:38:18,697 --> 00:38:22,699 to gather up a few remaining twigs. 548 00:38:22,734 --> 00:38:25,168 He joins the ranks of the few brave enough 549 00:38:25,203 --> 00:38:29,372 to endure winter in the high country. 550 00:38:29,408 --> 00:38:31,007 Hopefully, his hay piles 551 00:38:31,043 --> 00:38:34,611 will be enough to see him through the frigid months ahead. 552 00:38:34,646 --> 00:38:37,647 ♪♪ 553 00:38:40,552 --> 00:38:42,619 For the Sierra Nevada, this year's snowfall 554 00:38:42,654 --> 00:38:45,722 may be a tiny drop in the bucket. 555 00:38:45,757 --> 00:38:47,390 But its impact on those working 556 00:38:47,426 --> 00:38:51,895 to protect these groves cannot be overstated. 557 00:38:51,930 --> 00:38:53,029 NATE: It's been pretty dry, 558 00:38:53,065 --> 00:38:55,565 and the trees have looked pretty stressed, 559 00:38:55,600 --> 00:38:58,668 and I'm looking forward to leaving that behind. 560 00:38:58,704 --> 00:39:01,571 It just feels full of life here again. 561 00:39:01,606 --> 00:39:04,607 ♪♪ 562 00:39:10,716 --> 00:39:12,115 AMBROSE: It's been several years 563 00:39:12,150 --> 00:39:14,117 since we've had a good snowpack here in the Sierras, 564 00:39:14,152 --> 00:39:17,387 and it's just so beautiful. 565 00:39:17,422 --> 00:39:20,657 And the trees are gonna be loving this, for sure. 566 00:39:20,692 --> 00:39:23,993 KLINE: The research team returns to the Giant Forest, 567 00:39:24,029 --> 00:39:28,631 a forest that continues to surprise them. 568 00:39:28,667 --> 00:39:31,468 NATE: I've gotten what for me seems like an epiphany. 569 00:39:31,503 --> 00:39:34,204 We've always known that sequoia groves are wetter spots 570 00:39:34,239 --> 00:39:36,806 on the landscape than the rest of the forest. 571 00:39:36,842 --> 00:39:40,009 It also seems to me now that even during droughts, 572 00:39:40,045 --> 00:39:42,312 they have a more reliable water supply. 573 00:39:42,347 --> 00:39:44,314 So not only do they have more, 574 00:39:44,349 --> 00:39:47,250 it just stays more even through time. 575 00:39:47,285 --> 00:39:49,753 And that really drives home 576 00:39:49,788 --> 00:39:54,124 what a magical spot sequoias grow in. 577 00:39:54,159 --> 00:39:57,560 KLINE: Outside these groves, firs, pines, and cedars 578 00:39:57,596 --> 00:40:01,030 have been dying in numbers never seen before. 579 00:40:01,066 --> 00:40:05,268 But the trees within these groves are thriving. 580 00:40:05,303 --> 00:40:07,270 AMBROSE: Now that we have kind of a baseline 581 00:40:07,305 --> 00:40:08,705 during the severe drought, 582 00:40:08,740 --> 00:40:10,206 we'd like to continue that into the future 583 00:40:10,242 --> 00:40:12,809 and monitor how they respond 584 00:40:12,844 --> 00:40:15,812 to changing climatic conditions over time. 585 00:40:15,847 --> 00:40:17,046 Looks good. 586 00:40:17,082 --> 00:40:22,285 Okay, the height here is 4.30 meters. 587 00:40:22,320 --> 00:40:23,853 KLINE: The health of these giants 588 00:40:23,889 --> 00:40:26,222 indicates a hidden supply of water, 589 00:40:26,258 --> 00:40:28,725 somewhere below the surface. 590 00:40:28,760 --> 00:40:32,195 And as temperatures continue to rise in the coming years, 591 00:40:32,230 --> 00:40:36,900 countless species may endure in the shadow of these giants. 592 00:40:36,935 --> 00:40:39,936 ♪♪ 593 00:40:46,645 --> 00:40:50,146 As night falls on Yosemite, 594 00:40:50,182 --> 00:40:53,450 the moon bathes the valley in an unearthly light. 595 00:40:53,485 --> 00:40:55,485 [ Coyote yipping ] 596 00:41:00,959 --> 00:41:04,427 Frigid winds chase away the remaining visitors. 597 00:41:06,765 --> 00:41:08,765 [ Coyote yips ] 598 00:41:15,874 --> 00:41:17,607 With each passing storm, 599 00:41:17,642 --> 00:41:20,543 winter pulses like a beating heart. 600 00:41:20,579 --> 00:41:23,580 ♪♪ 601 00:41:28,453 --> 00:41:29,752 [ Coyote yips ] 602 00:41:29,788 --> 00:41:32,956 Snow gathers and melts away again. 603 00:41:41,600 --> 00:41:44,767 Rivers rise and carry water down into the valley. 604 00:41:48,173 --> 00:41:51,241 There are few wild rivers left in the Sierra Nevada, 605 00:41:51,276 --> 00:41:55,144 but there are still wild stretches of river to run. 606 00:41:59,918 --> 00:42:03,520 Kayakers are drawn to this stretch of Cherry Creek, 607 00:42:03,555 --> 00:42:07,724 not simply to test their grit, 608 00:42:07,759 --> 00:42:11,694 but to connect with nature in its purest liquid form. 609 00:42:11,730 --> 00:42:14,731 ♪♪ 610 00:42:47,198 --> 00:42:52,435 While snowmelt has reignited these wild rivers, 611 00:42:52,470 --> 00:42:54,170 at their source, 612 00:42:54,205 --> 00:42:57,840 high up in the peaks of the Sierra, 613 00:42:57,876 --> 00:42:59,909 John Dittli and Todd Calfee 614 00:42:59,945 --> 00:43:02,745 are trying to determine what effect this year's snowfall 615 00:43:02,781 --> 00:43:04,547 has had on the region. 616 00:43:07,586 --> 00:43:09,686 They're on a snow survey expedition 617 00:43:09,721 --> 00:43:13,690 for the California Cooperative Snow Survey Program. 618 00:43:13,725 --> 00:43:16,893 It's one of the longest continuous records of snowfall 619 00:43:16,928 --> 00:43:20,029 in the United States. 620 00:43:20,065 --> 00:43:25,668 DITTLI: Last year, it was the driest year on record. 621 00:43:25,704 --> 00:43:28,571 We did a 12-day snow survey. 622 00:43:28,607 --> 00:43:30,873 There was almost no snow to even measure. 623 00:43:30,909 --> 00:43:34,344 Home sweet home! 624 00:43:34,379 --> 00:43:35,578 CALFEE: All right. 625 00:43:35,614 --> 00:43:36,913 DITTLI: This could very well 626 00:43:36,948 --> 00:43:42,652 be a prolonged dry period of 30 years, of 100 years. 627 00:43:42,687 --> 00:43:47,256 It's happened before, and it's gonna happen again. 628 00:43:49,427 --> 00:43:50,760 KLINE: The current drought may be 629 00:43:50,795 --> 00:43:53,696 simply a preview of the future -- 630 00:43:53,732 --> 00:43:58,601 a hotter, drier California. 631 00:43:58,637 --> 00:44:00,803 DITTLI: 69% of average. 632 00:44:00,839 --> 00:44:02,338 CALFEE: Oh, yeah, not good, 633 00:44:02,374 --> 00:44:04,273 but it's better than it has been the last few years. 634 00:44:04,309 --> 00:44:06,909 DITTLI: It's going to be more and more important to know 635 00:44:06,945 --> 00:44:10,880 exactly how much water is in the Sierra Nevada. 636 00:44:10,915 --> 00:44:13,516 It's California's biggest reservoir. 637 00:44:16,421 --> 00:44:22,325 We drive a tube into the snow, pull that up, and weigh it. 638 00:44:22,360 --> 00:44:24,927 And when we weigh that, we're actually weighing 639 00:44:24,963 --> 00:44:27,497 the amount of water in the snowpack. 640 00:44:30,301 --> 00:44:34,837 55, 48, 56. 641 00:44:37,609 --> 00:44:39,776 KLINE: While an improvement over recent years, 642 00:44:39,811 --> 00:44:43,880 the water content is still far below normal. 643 00:44:43,915 --> 00:44:45,014 DITTLI: I'm fortunate enough, 644 00:44:45,050 --> 00:44:46,282 I guess, to have lived in the Sierra now, 645 00:44:46,317 --> 00:44:49,152 to be here for the heaviest winter on record 646 00:44:49,187 --> 00:44:52,889 and the lightest winter on record. 647 00:44:52,924 --> 00:44:54,924 It makes you really realize that 648 00:44:54,959 --> 00:44:58,761 there really is no such thing as normal. 649 00:44:58,797 --> 00:45:01,497 KLINE: Season by season, 650 00:45:01,533 --> 00:45:03,466 these dramatic shifts in weather 651 00:45:03,501 --> 00:45:06,102 will become the new normal. 652 00:45:06,137 --> 00:45:07,537 But over the long term, 653 00:45:07,572 --> 00:45:12,108 snowpack will continue to decline. 654 00:45:12,143 --> 00:45:16,212 Even now, snow cover varies greatly across the range. 655 00:45:16,247 --> 00:45:19,248 ♪♪ 656 00:45:22,253 --> 00:45:24,087 Some talus fields have received little 657 00:45:24,122 --> 00:45:25,588 or no snow at all -- 658 00:45:25,623 --> 00:45:28,825 crucial insulation for the pika's tiny home. 659 00:45:31,663 --> 00:45:33,096 Yet these rocky slopes 660 00:45:33,131 --> 00:45:35,398 may have insulating properties of their own. 661 00:45:35,433 --> 00:45:40,036 [ Pika chirping ] 662 00:45:40,071 --> 00:45:42,538 Persistent ice beneath the talus fields 663 00:45:42,574 --> 00:45:44,574 keeps the pika cool in summer, 664 00:45:44,609 --> 00:45:47,677 while the sun warms the stones in winter, 665 00:45:47,712 --> 00:45:49,445 helping to keep the pika's home 666 00:45:49,481 --> 00:45:53,149 at a steady temperature even as the climate warms. 667 00:45:56,921 --> 00:45:59,889 From their humble origins 10,000 feet up, 668 00:45:59,924 --> 00:46:04,894 these small flakes of snow have far-reaching influence. 669 00:46:04,929 --> 00:46:08,865 Snowmelt feeds wetlands more than 70 miles away. 670 00:46:12,337 --> 00:46:13,936 Marshes flood, 671 00:46:13,972 --> 00:46:17,373 welcoming tens of thousands of migratory visitors. 672 00:46:21,246 --> 00:46:24,480 Sand hill cranes and snow geese overwinter here, 673 00:46:24,516 --> 00:46:26,482 before beginning their long journey north. 674 00:46:26,518 --> 00:46:30,386 [ Birds squawking ] 675 00:46:30,421 --> 00:46:32,922 Wetlands like these once covered vast areas 676 00:46:32,957 --> 00:46:35,725 of California's Central Valley. 677 00:46:35,760 --> 00:46:38,261 But today only small pockets remain, 678 00:46:38,296 --> 00:46:40,530 and these have become critical habitats. 679 00:46:40,565 --> 00:46:44,934 [ Birds squawking ] 680 00:46:44,969 --> 00:46:46,736 At dawn, one of California's 681 00:46:46,771 --> 00:46:49,138 greatest spectacles unfolds 682 00:46:49,174 --> 00:46:52,575 as snow geese take to the sky in the thousands. 683 00:46:52,610 --> 00:46:54,577 [ Geese honking ] 684 00:46:54,612 --> 00:46:57,613 ♪♪ 685 00:47:37,121 --> 00:47:39,522 Days in Yosemite are warming, 686 00:47:39,557 --> 00:47:42,024 but before it disappears for the season, 687 00:47:42,060 --> 00:47:45,528 winter is about to take one last curtain call. 688 00:47:48,733 --> 00:47:50,600 Crowds of photographers are beginning 689 00:47:50,635 --> 00:47:53,569 to gather along the banks of the Merced River. 690 00:47:56,374 --> 00:47:57,974 Each of them is hoping to capture 691 00:47:58,009 --> 00:48:00,543 a single frame of magic. 692 00:48:00,578 --> 00:48:03,713 MAN: I got here around 5:30 in the morning, had breakfast, 693 00:48:03,748 --> 00:48:06,616 and I've been here since 8:30 in the morning. 694 00:48:07,151 --> 00:48:08,818 So... [ Laughs ] 695 00:48:08,853 --> 00:48:11,454 It's been a long day. [ Laughs ] 696 00:48:11,489 --> 00:48:12,822 MAN #2: It only happens once a year, 697 00:48:12,857 --> 00:48:16,492 but with the drought, it hasn't happened up here 698 00:48:16,527 --> 00:48:19,195 with this intensity for five years. 699 00:48:19,230 --> 00:48:20,596 MAN #3: I tried last year, 700 00:48:20,632 --> 00:48:21,931 but there wasn't enough water to light up the falls, 701 00:48:21,966 --> 00:48:23,466 so trying again this year. 702 00:48:23,501 --> 00:48:26,936 WOMAN: This is our second time -- third -- 703 00:48:26,971 --> 00:48:28,771 and this is the first time 704 00:48:28,806 --> 00:48:30,473 we're actually probably going to get the shot. 705 00:48:30,508 --> 00:48:33,009 MAN #4: This is my sixth attempt to get this picture. 706 00:48:33,044 --> 00:48:35,745 WOMAN: And so it's sort of like the photographers' chase. 707 00:48:35,780 --> 00:48:37,179 It's something we all talk about -- 708 00:48:37,215 --> 00:48:38,814 chasing after the shot. 709 00:48:38,850 --> 00:48:40,249 MAN #5: There are so many things 710 00:48:40,285 --> 00:48:41,918 that can happen to make it not work, 711 00:48:41,953 --> 00:48:44,253 like it doesn't rain or it's cloudy, 712 00:48:44,289 --> 00:48:47,323 so to have it be just rained, 713 00:48:47,358 --> 00:48:50,359 just snowed, it's fairly clear skies. 714 00:48:50,395 --> 00:48:52,595 This is the kind of thing 715 00:48:52,630 --> 00:48:54,664 you just can't pass up as a photographer. 716 00:48:54,699 --> 00:48:56,432 If you're close enough that you can get here, 717 00:48:56,467 --> 00:48:57,967 you just have to go. 718 00:48:58,002 --> 00:49:01,570 KLINE: The phenomenon happens just as the sun begins to set. 719 00:49:05,310 --> 00:49:07,743 WOMAN #2: The sun makes the water glow 720 00:49:07,779 --> 00:49:11,380 like a ribbon of red-orange fire. 721 00:49:11,416 --> 00:49:14,483 KLINE: The effect only lasts about 10 minutes, 722 00:49:14,519 --> 00:49:18,454 and as the sun begins to illuminate Horsetail Fall, 723 00:49:18,489 --> 00:49:19,722 cameras are at the ready. 724 00:49:19,757 --> 00:49:21,724 [ Camera shutters clicking ] 725 00:49:21,759 --> 00:49:24,760 ♪♪ 726 00:49:52,323 --> 00:49:55,324 ♪♪ 727 00:50:29,427 --> 00:50:31,560 [ Cheering, whooping ] 728 00:50:31,596 --> 00:50:34,196 [ Applause ] 729 00:50:44,175 --> 00:50:45,374 MAN #4: I think Yosemite Valley 730 00:50:45,410 --> 00:50:47,043 looks like God took his finger 731 00:50:47,078 --> 00:50:50,846 and carved out a little path so we could have a good time. 732 00:50:50,882 --> 00:50:52,982 And in my opinion, you don't have to be 733 00:50:53,017 --> 00:50:55,351 a particularly religious person 734 00:50:55,386 --> 00:50:58,220 to feel inspired here. 735 00:50:58,256 --> 00:51:00,122 It's just an amazing place. 736 00:51:00,158 --> 00:51:03,159 ♪♪ 737 00:51:09,967 --> 00:51:13,536 KLINE: Another season in Yosemite has come to pass. 738 00:51:15,740 --> 00:51:19,408 The forests are reborn with new and wondrous life. 739 00:51:23,147 --> 00:51:26,749 Fluorescent red snow plants erupt from the ground 740 00:51:26,784 --> 00:51:28,617 and spring begins again. 741 00:51:40,631 --> 00:51:43,032 From forests of giants... 742 00:51:46,170 --> 00:51:48,003 ...to the tiniest of creatures... 743 00:51:48,039 --> 00:51:49,705 [ Pike chirps ] 744 00:51:49,740 --> 00:51:55,478 ...all of them bound together by a single source of life. 745 00:51:55,513 --> 00:51:57,947 It's the power of water that is the heart 746 00:51:57,982 --> 00:52:02,017 and soul of this most magical range of light. 747 00:52:02,053 --> 00:52:05,020 ♪♪ 748 00:52:18,269 --> 00:52:21,270 ♪♪ 749 00:52:28,279 --> 00:52:31,280 ♪♪ 750 00:52:38,289 --> 00:52:41,090 ♪♪ 751 00:52:41,125 --> 00:52:44,360 To learn more about what you've seen on this "Nature" program, 752 00:52:44,395 --> 00:52:47,296 visit pbs.org. 753 00:52:50,201 --> 00:52:53,602 ♪♪ 754 00:52:53,638 --> 00:52:55,971 ♪♪ 64277

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