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Have you ever wondered why
Britain is an island
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and why these cliffs, the
White Cliffs of Dover, look so very
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remarkably similar to the ones over
there on the other side in France?
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Well, half a million years ago,
they were joined by a land bridge.
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It took a catastrophe,
a one-in-a-million event,
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to change all of that.
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The land bridge that connected us
to the continent was washed
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away in the biggest flooding
disaster ever seen in Europe...
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..where a lake twice
the size of Wales
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drained in a matter of weeks,
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gouging out the English Channel.
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It was a megaflood and that flood
changed the face of our nation.
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As a palaeontologist
and evolutionary biologist,
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I'm fascinated by the awe-inspiring
geological events that created
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the island of Britain...
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The earth must have shook.
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Yeah, it would have been deafening.
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I mean, a catastrophic event.
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..the mysterious lives
of our prehistoric ancestors...
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That is beautiful.
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..and the mega-beasts
that lived alongside them.
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Look at its enormous tusk.
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I'm going to set out on foot
to walk through time
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and discover this long,
lost world
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before Britain became
cut off from the Continent
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in a one-in-a-million catastrophe.
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My journey through time starts
over half a million years ago
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along the beaches of
North Norfolk...
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..where mega-beasts and ancient
humans could walk across
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the land bridge that connected
Britain to Europe.
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My journey continues
down to Kent,
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along the North Downs to
the White Cliffs of Dover.
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Finally, I'll go under water
off the coast of south-east Britain
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to witness the evidence
for the megaflood.
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Oh! Wow!
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Great visibility. Yeah.
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That's cool.
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One million years ago
these cliffs didn't exist.
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They would just have been
a rolling ridge
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stretching as far as the eye
can see into the horizon.
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There would have been
no Straits of Dover,
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there would have been
no English Channel.
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But something happened
to destroy that land ridge
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and ultimately turn
us into an island.
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First I want to get an idea
of what Britain looked like
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when it was connected to
the Continent. What lived here?
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What animals? Who lived here?
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Were there humans?
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The best place to do that
is the coast of Norfolk.
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Norfolk was right next
to the span of land that once
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connected us to Europe.
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My first impulse in any new
place is to get
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the lie of the land
from a high vantage point.
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Being seven months pregnant
should never get in the way
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of a good view.
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I've just climbed 133 steps
to the top of the tower
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of St Mary's Church
in Happisburgh to get my first
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proper glimpse
of the Norfolk coastline,
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and what a view.
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If I was here 800,000 years ago
or so,
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I wouldn't be looking
at the sea at all,
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I'd be looking across
a really wide river estuary.
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And so all around me I'd be
looking down on lush river delta.
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I might even catch the distant
trumpet of a mammoth,
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or the trampling of hooves
of a large herd of bison.
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In warm periods, this was a world
populated by huge mammals
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that came and went from the
Continent across the land bridge.
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If I was very lucky,
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I might catch
a glimpse of some people
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wandering along the river bank.
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Evidence for these ancient
species of human
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that were so very
different to us today
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is found here on the beaches
of Norfolk.
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And sometimes, so too are the
remains of very, very big animals.
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Alongside me is a deposit that
is known as the Cromer Forest Bed.
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In particular this bit is known
as the West Runton Fresh Water Bed
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because that's what it is.
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We're on a beach but this here,
all of this stuff,
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is not beach sediment.
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As you peel back the surface,
you can
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immediately see it's not sand,
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it's soil.
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It's the kind of thing that would
be deposited in a really
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slow-moving, tranquil river.
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I kind of imagine slow waters,
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marshes, some grassland
around the edge
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and in the distance maybe a forest.
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00:05:09,000 --> 00:05:11,920
A few stoats might run by,
a mole, squirrel -
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very quintessentially English,
until a hyena sticks its head out
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and is followed by a sabre-tooth cat
or a lion, or a lynx.
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Suddenly, you're in a slightly
different world altogether.
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That's West Runton 700,000
years ago.
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Here on the beach at West Runton,
something amazing was
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discovered that had been hidden
for hundreds of thousands of years.
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Here we go.
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In 1990, children's nursery
assistant Margaret Hems
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and her late husband, Harold,
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were searching for fossils
in the run-up to Christmas.
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So, Margaret, tell me
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a little bit about how you came down
to the beach in the first place.
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There was an announcement
saying that there was going to be
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a high tide, high winds
and possible flooding at Blakeney
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and my husband and I,
we looked at one another and said,
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he said to me, "An early start
in the morning." That's what we did.
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So you were walking along the beach
and something caught your eye.
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I saw this round piece in the bed
and I knew it was a fossil.
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Do have any photos? Yes, I have.
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Look at that!
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That one seems to be popular.
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That is what you found? Yes.
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Explain to me the bit that you saw
first. This piece here.
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I started digging carefully around
and in the end it was the pelvis.
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Wow!
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My husband, when he saw that,
said it could only be an elephant
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but we didn't know what
kind of elephant.
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Margaret and Harold had made
an astonishing discovery -
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an almost-complete skeleton of the
largest mammoth known to science.
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How does it feel to have been
the discoverer of one of the most
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complete mammoth skeletons
ever found?
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It is very, very exciting.
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It put West Runton on the map,
didn't it?
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It's internationally famous.
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I remember thinking
while we were digging it out,
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I ought to be making my mince pies,
not doing this!
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THEY CHUCKLE
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Margaret's mammoth is still
undergoing conservation
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over 20 years after its discovery.
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This remarkable beast
in front of me
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is the head and tusks
of the West Runton Mammoth.
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Look at its enormous tusk,
it's beautiful.
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00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:50,360
It's in absolutely exquisite
condition and just this
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portion of that mammoth skeleton
can tell us so much.
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From the size of its tusks
we can guess it's probably a male.
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It could have been over
four metres tall,
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probably weighed ten tonnes or more.
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00:08:01,560 --> 00:08:04,560
That's twice the size of
a male African elephant.
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Looking at its teeth, I can tell
that he was probably in his 40s
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when he died.
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00:08:09,800 --> 00:08:13,800
Now, that's an animal that should
have been in his prime.
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It was a steppe mammoth,
the ancestor of the woolly mammoth,
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which also frequented
the British Isles.
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Mammoths like these certainly
didn't evolve in Britain.
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Originating from Siberia,
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they must have migrated here from
the continent via the land bridge.
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In total, over 200 bone fragments
from the West Runton Mammoth
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have been carefully catalogued
and preserved.
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There are so many bones
and they're all beautiful
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and they're all enormous.
Look at this one here.
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The femur, the thigh bone.
This is about 1.5 metres in length.
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An animal that is over
four metres tall
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is going to have pretty long legs.
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Now, what's really interesting
about this particular bone
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is that it tells us that this
poor thing had a gammy knee.
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This side here is lovely and smooth.
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That's what you'd expect where it
would join up with the shin
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to create the knee socket.
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This side should be smooth as well
but it's not.
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Maybe a fall, maybe a fight,
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but something quite dramatic caused
this knee to pop out
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and jump so that it only articulated
on half of the shin bone.
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So one whole side of the thigh bone
wasn't in its socket.
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It still survived despite
this injury,
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in a landscape that had lions,
sabre-tooth cats
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and all kinds of predators.
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It was still OK
but it wasn't really in
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tiptop condition and that may have
been what did for it in the end.
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Now, this is fossilised hyena poo,
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and the West Runton Mammoth was
surrounded by them.
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We know that either in life,
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or hopefully for this creature maybe
after it had already passed on,
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hyenas got their fill and they ate
an awful lot of it
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and they left an awful lot
of that meal behind
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in the form of fossilised poo.
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Britain was clearly a home to
mega-beasts who had migrated
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here from the continent.
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Alongside animals like the mammoths,
humans arrived to live
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in a Britain which could be
surprisingly comfortable.
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In my day job I spend a lot of time
imagining what the past
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would look like.
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Here on the Norfolk Broads, the
landscape helps you out quite a bit.
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Just looking about right now,
I can really get a sense
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of what the world would have
looked like around here
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a million years ago.
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During warm periods,
this part of Norfolk
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would've been a water world
much like this.
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00:11:06,800 --> 00:11:09,200
If you were canoeing here
a million years or so ago,
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you wouldn't be on
the Norfolk Broads,
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you would be on the ancestral
River Thames,
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which flowed all the way from Wales,
right the way up to the sea.
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The ancestral Thames was the
original route of the great river
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that now runs through London,
hundreds of kilometres to the south.
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This river would have run through
heathland, heather,
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there might have been some pine
and spruce forests in the distance.
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Sturgeon would have been
swimming on their way to the sea.
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00:11:40,800 --> 00:11:43,800
The first humans who inhabited
Britain are elusive
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but astonishing clues to their
presence are found in coastal towns
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like Happisburgh.
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Happisburgh is
one of the most dynamic
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sections of the Norfolk coast.
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00:11:56,480 --> 00:11:58,680
This here used to be the base
of the steps
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00:11:58,680 --> 00:12:01,040
that run up to
the top of the cliffs.
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Except...
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those cliffs are now all the way
over there.
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They've been retreating over
the decades as the sea
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has bitten away at them.
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00:12:09,960 --> 00:12:13,960
That same force of the ocean
a few years ago, May 2013,
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00:12:14,680 --> 00:12:18,400
scoured away a good portion
of the beach, the foreshore
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and uncovered something quite
remarkable
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about a metre beneath my feet.
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A huge storm had scoured the sand
off the beach
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revealing the mud layer beneath.
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00:12:32,680 --> 00:12:36,680
Over 50 mysterious indentations
in the mud were discovered.
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00:12:39,720 --> 00:12:42,800
Human footprints.
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00:12:42,800 --> 00:12:46,800
Their age is truly
awe-inspiring...
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..around 900,000 years old.
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00:12:51,040 --> 00:12:53,520
With only a few hours to record them
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before the next tide
wiped them away,
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00:12:55,600 --> 00:12:59,600
researchers at the site
took 3-D photographs.
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00:13:01,960 --> 00:13:04,360
So those footprints are now
totally buried? Mmm.
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00:13:04,360 --> 00:13:06,240
No-one's able to see them any more.
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00:13:06,240 --> 00:13:09,120
Well, more than buried,
they don't exist any more.
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00:13:09,120 --> 00:13:11,000
Washed away?
They've been washed away.
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00:13:11,000 --> 00:13:15,000
David Waterhouse of Norfolk Museums
has brought a 3-D print of one
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of the ancient visitors' footprints
to the beach where they were found.
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This is the largest one.
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00:13:20,960 --> 00:13:22,440
This is a size nine.
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00:13:22,440 --> 00:13:24,800
Probably a male.
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00:13:24,800 --> 00:13:27,040
These adults were walking due south,
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pretty much down the present-day
beach but the smaller footprints
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00:13:31,040 --> 00:13:34,200
were winding all over the place and
that just happens today, doesn't it?
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00:13:34,200 --> 00:13:37,800
Exactly... Parents walk along...
Kids running around the outside.
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00:13:37,800 --> 00:13:40,840
Looking here at the footprints,
the heel is back here.
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00:13:40,840 --> 00:13:43,680
There you can see the imprint of
what looks like a big toe
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00:13:43,680 --> 00:13:46,440
and the other toes
just in here.
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It's just rather wonderful to think
that this actually was a person
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00:13:50,320 --> 00:13:53,560
who was walking
on a river bank, here,
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00:13:53,560 --> 00:13:56,040
maybe as long ago as
one million years ago,
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00:13:56,040 --> 00:13:57,880
but at least 800,000 years ago.
239
00:13:57,880 --> 00:14:00,480
They're the oldest outside of
Africa, aren't they? They are.
240
00:14:00,480 --> 00:14:02,600
The oldest footprints
outside of Africa. Yeah.
241
00:14:02,600 --> 00:14:06,160
You've got that massive leap
from Africa to Norfolk.
242
00:14:06,160 --> 00:14:09,320
That's why, you know,
it's so special.
243
00:14:09,320 --> 00:14:13,320
This amazing snapshot of human life
was a one-in-a-million find.
244
00:14:14,760 --> 00:14:18,760
The footprints were probably left
by the mysterious Homo antecessor,
245
00:14:18,920 --> 00:14:22,920
one of the earliest known
species of human in Europe.
246
00:14:23,040 --> 00:14:26,840
With a taste for simple stone tools
and cannibalism,
247
00:14:26,840 --> 00:14:30,360
so far their remains have only
been found in Spain.
248
00:14:30,360 --> 00:14:34,080
They would have migrated
here across the land bridge.
249
00:14:34,080 --> 00:14:38,000
Norfolk's rich fossil record tells
us about a world that stretched
250
00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:41,120
from half a million years ago back
to a million years ago or so
251
00:14:41,120 --> 00:14:44,160
where humans, mammoths,
sabre-tooth cats,
252
00:14:44,160 --> 00:14:47,400
a whole diversity of creatures could
come and go freely
253
00:14:47,400 --> 00:14:49,960
between Britain
and Continental Europe.
254
00:14:49,960 --> 00:14:53,120
That connection is underlined again
and again and again
255
00:14:53,120 --> 00:14:56,760
but it was about to change.
256
00:14:56,760 --> 00:15:00,680
Humans and animals would come
and go as the climate warmed
257
00:15:00,680 --> 00:15:04,640
and cooled but an extreme
cold snap would soon trigger
258
00:15:04,640 --> 00:15:08,480
the sequence of events that would
end in the megaflood,
259
00:15:08,480 --> 00:15:13,900
Setting Britain on its way
to becoming an island.
260
00:15:22,240 --> 00:15:23,560
Half a million years ago,
261
00:15:23,560 --> 00:15:26,840
Britain was connected to
the Continent by a huge land bridge
262
00:15:26,840 --> 00:15:30,160
that stretched all the way
from Dover into northern France.
263
00:15:30,160 --> 00:15:32,800
A geological catastrophe
would change all of that
264
00:15:32,800 --> 00:15:36,280
and leave the white cliffs of Dover
plunging into what would
265
00:15:36,280 --> 00:15:39,080
become the English Channel.
266
00:15:39,080 --> 00:15:42,560
I am in Norfolk, looking for
evidence of the people who crossed
267
00:15:42,560 --> 00:15:46,560
the land bridge that once connected
us to Europe so long ago.
268
00:15:47,200 --> 00:15:50,600
Those haunting million-year-old
footprints are not the only
269
00:15:50,600 --> 00:15:54,600
type of evidence for ancient
humanity in the British Isles.
270
00:15:54,960 --> 00:15:58,640
Prehistoric Britons also left behind
traces of their presence
271
00:15:58,640 --> 00:16:02,640
in a unique type of stone.
272
00:16:06,800 --> 00:16:09,960
The people of Norfolk
have always made use of this natural
273
00:16:09,960 --> 00:16:13,960
product of their environment.
274
00:16:15,720 --> 00:16:19,400
And, like any good medieval building
on the east coast of England,
275
00:16:19,400 --> 00:16:23,400
this church is covered in the stuff.
276
00:16:27,000 --> 00:16:31,000
St Mary's, Happisburgh, is a great
example of medieval architecture.
277
00:16:31,680 --> 00:16:35,680
14th-century church, it's made
almost entirely of this stuff -
278
00:16:35,800 --> 00:16:38,240
flint. It was all collected locally
279
00:16:38,240 --> 00:16:40,920
and brought up here
by the barrel load.
280
00:16:40,920 --> 00:16:43,520
I mean, just look at that.
281
00:16:43,520 --> 00:16:46,200
Imagine how many flint nodules
would have been needed to
282
00:16:46,200 --> 00:16:50,040
build this church.
And that's how it came.
283
00:16:50,040 --> 00:16:52,360
Like this, in nodule form.
284
00:16:52,360 --> 00:16:55,960
In certain places, where they wanted
to push the boat out a bit,
285
00:16:55,960 --> 00:16:58,120
they would expertly split it in two
286
00:16:58,120 --> 00:17:01,920
and place it, to reveal the
beautiful lustre of its interior.
287
00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:05,720
And these are all flush with each
other, so it's called flushwork.
288
00:17:05,720 --> 00:17:09,040
This is a great example
of medieval craftwork.
289
00:17:09,040 --> 00:17:12,320
But here in Happisburgh, there's
even finer traditional flintwork
290
00:17:12,320 --> 00:17:16,320
and it goes back
half a million years.
291
00:17:17,560 --> 00:17:20,600
15 years ago,
during an especially low tide,
292
00:17:20,600 --> 00:17:24,600
an extraordinary discovery was
made here on Happisburgh Beach.
293
00:17:26,160 --> 00:17:29,320
It was just this section in the sand
294
00:17:29,320 --> 00:17:32,200
and I could see
this straight line, which is...
295
00:17:32,200 --> 00:17:34,160
It's just relatively unusual.
296
00:17:34,160 --> 00:17:38,160
'Mike Chambers was the man in
the right place at the right time.'
297
00:17:39,080 --> 00:17:42,280
Out there, when the tide is out,
the furthest you can get,
298
00:17:42,280 --> 00:17:45,560
that's where I found it in the clay,
that type of clay.
299
00:17:45,560 --> 00:17:48,360
So, not in the sand.
Not in the sand, no.
300
00:17:48,360 --> 00:17:51,920
It was just this little edge.
So, it came to Cromer Museum first.
301
00:17:51,920 --> 00:17:55,760
Yeah, and it's people like Mike
who know to bring these things in.
302
00:17:55,760 --> 00:17:58,560
And, crucially,
he remembered where it was from.
303
00:17:58,560 --> 00:18:02,560
You can't date the actual flint, but
you can date the sediment around it.
304
00:18:02,640 --> 00:18:05,280
Shall we get it out?
Yeah, I think so.
305
00:18:05,280 --> 00:18:07,000
It's time! Brilliant.
306
00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:09,520
'And here is Mike's discovery -
307
00:18:09,520 --> 00:18:11,120
'at half a million years old,
308
00:18:11,120 --> 00:18:15,080
'the earliest flint handaxe
known in North Western Europe.'
309
00:18:15,080 --> 00:18:19,080
Oh, look at that!
310
00:18:19,520 --> 00:18:23,520
That is beautiful.
It's so black and glossy.
311
00:18:24,240 --> 00:18:26,360
Do we know how
they used these tools?
312
00:18:26,360 --> 00:18:28,200
This was really a butchery tool.
313
00:18:28,200 --> 00:18:31,040
You would use these really
thin edges maybe for skinning.
314
00:18:31,040 --> 00:18:34,360
You could turn it round
and use the thicker bits there
315
00:18:34,360 --> 00:18:36,640
for maybe jointing.
Do we know who made this?
316
00:18:36,640 --> 00:18:39,120
From the shape of it,
the design of it, essentially,
317
00:18:39,120 --> 00:18:43,120
this is a species
called Homo heidelbergensis.
318
00:18:43,640 --> 00:18:47,640
Homo heidelbergensis lived between
600 and 300,000 years ago,
319
00:18:49,120 --> 00:18:53,120
migrating in and out of Britain
as the weather warmed and cooled.
320
00:18:55,040 --> 00:18:57,920
With more sophisticated tools
than antecessor,
321
00:18:57,920 --> 00:18:59,880
heidelbergensis might even have been
322
00:18:59,880 --> 00:19:03,440
among the first humans
to bury their dead.
323
00:19:03,440 --> 00:19:06,760
This handaxe was found
out there, in that direction,
324
00:19:06,760 --> 00:19:09,920
and half a million years ago,
out there wasn't sea. No.
325
00:19:09,920 --> 00:19:12,840
No, I mean, this was a riverbed
we're talking about, isn't it?
326
00:19:12,840 --> 00:19:15,320
We are in a riverbed
and if you kept on going,
327
00:19:15,320 --> 00:19:18,520
the heidelbergensis could walk
all the way to join his mates,
328
00:19:18,520 --> 00:19:21,040
because there was a land bridge
between here and Europe
329
00:19:21,040 --> 00:19:22,600
and this species was everywhere.
330
00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:26,200
But here in Happisburgh,
we have never found any bones,
331
00:19:26,200 --> 00:19:30,160
any fossils of those people.
Yet. Yet!
332
00:19:30,160 --> 00:19:33,760
The humans who created priceless
objects like this would not
333
00:19:33,760 --> 00:19:37,200
stick around for ever.
334
00:19:37,200 --> 00:19:40,120
The glacier that would eventually
cause the mega flood
335
00:19:40,120 --> 00:19:43,000
was moving across Europe,
forcing them to migrate
336
00:19:43,000 --> 00:19:46,320
out of Britain for sunnier climes.
337
00:19:46,320 --> 00:19:50,320
A new ice age was on its way.
338
00:19:51,080 --> 00:19:54,840
Ice ages are periods of intense
global cooling where enormous
339
00:19:54,840 --> 00:19:58,840
ice sheets descend upon the land,
some kilometres thick.
340
00:20:02,000 --> 00:20:05,960
Now, 450,000 years ago,
there was a really big one
341
00:20:05,960 --> 00:20:09,960
and the evidence for that
is right here on this beach.
342
00:20:17,000 --> 00:20:20,240
When we come down on the coast
section here, we find that
343
00:20:20,240 --> 00:20:23,480
the cliffs are almost entirely made
of glacial sediment.
344
00:20:23,480 --> 00:20:27,480
Geologist Martin Warren has been
studying these beaches for decades.
345
00:20:28,480 --> 00:20:29,680
To his trained eye,
346
00:20:29,680 --> 00:20:32,640
the evidence for the Anglian
glaciation that once covered
347
00:20:32,640 --> 00:20:36,640
Britain in huge slabs of ice is
written in the cliffs on this beach.
348
00:20:38,560 --> 00:20:42,560
Here at East Runton we have got this
amazing chalk that has been thrusted
349
00:20:43,760 --> 00:20:45,840
and shoved, to make a hill.
350
00:20:45,840 --> 00:20:48,560
So, there is chalk right up at
the top of the cliff there that
351
00:20:48,560 --> 00:20:50,360
really should be down at beach level
352
00:20:50,360 --> 00:20:53,400
and it has been pushed around
by the power of that ice sheet.
353
00:20:53,400 --> 00:20:57,400
Wow, and you've got a 1km thick
ice sheet that is advancing
354
00:20:57,840 --> 00:21:01,120
and sometimes retreating
and the power of that sheet
355
00:21:01,120 --> 00:21:03,680
is moving
these incredibly large blocks.
356
00:21:03,680 --> 00:21:06,600
I mean, I can see what looks
like some flint up there,
357
00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:08,080
is that correct?
358
00:21:08,080 --> 00:21:11,480
Yes, there is a great sheet
of chalk, with lines of flint
359
00:21:11,480 --> 00:21:13,960
running right the way through it.
360
00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:16,440
With a trained eye
like Martin at your side,
361
00:21:16,440 --> 00:21:20,440
it is hard not to indulge
in a spot of geological foraging.
362
00:21:21,880 --> 00:21:25,880
This looks unusual. Yes, I think
this is a piece of dolerite.
363
00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:28,400
The most likely source of that,
I would think,
364
00:21:28,400 --> 00:21:30,520
is off the coast of Northumbria.
365
00:21:30,520 --> 00:21:33,440
As the ice came streaming
down the east coast,
366
00:21:33,440 --> 00:21:35,840
it would have been bringing
these down.
367
00:21:35,840 --> 00:21:39,200
What is that, 100km, 200km, more?
368
00:21:39,200 --> 00:21:42,680
240, I think, the last time...
if I remember rightly.
369
00:21:42,680 --> 00:21:46,440
How cool. Yeah. Was it rolled?
Was it swept along?
370
00:21:46,440 --> 00:21:48,600
The ice actually
incorporates material
371
00:21:48,600 --> 00:21:50,440
into the base of the ice sheet.
372
00:21:50,440 --> 00:21:54,200
When eventually the ice melts,
it dumps it here in Norfolk.
373
00:21:54,200 --> 00:21:55,440
That's it, isn't it?
374
00:21:55,440 --> 00:21:58,040
We often think of things like
glaciers as being a bit static.
375
00:21:58,040 --> 00:21:59,680
You worry about them melting,
376
00:21:59,680 --> 00:22:02,520
but the whole time
they are moving, moving, moving.
377
00:22:02,520 --> 00:22:05,920
They are, they are very dynamic
and very dirty.
378
00:22:05,920 --> 00:22:08,640
Erratics, like the dolerite,
are rocks carried
379
00:22:08,640 --> 00:22:12,360
to the beach from far away
by an advancing glacier.
380
00:22:12,360 --> 00:22:15,560
They are a telltale clue
that the ice sheet extended
381
00:22:15,560 --> 00:22:18,040
far beyond this area.
382
00:22:18,040 --> 00:22:22,040
Is that something here?
Oh, wow, look at that.
383
00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:25,480
That is an erratic.
A bit of sandstone.
384
00:22:25,480 --> 00:22:28,320
It has got a flat face on it
that has been smoothed off
385
00:22:28,320 --> 00:22:31,960
by the ice sheet and it has
even got grooves and scratches
386
00:22:31,960 --> 00:22:35,960
as it has been scraping along
the bottom of the ice sheet.
387
00:22:37,120 --> 00:22:41,120
That is an absolutely
perfect example of an erratic.
388
00:22:42,560 --> 00:22:46,560
Yeah, moved by an ice sheet
450,000 years ago. Ha!
389
00:22:48,280 --> 00:22:51,640
Britain was being crushed
under the advance of the most severe
390
00:22:51,640 --> 00:22:55,560
glaciation of the past
million years.
391
00:22:55,560 --> 00:22:59,560
This deep cold snap forced humans
and animals to flee this land
392
00:22:59,760 --> 00:23:02,880
and it would set in train
a sequence of events that would
393
00:23:02,880 --> 00:23:06,880
lead to the catastrophic
mega flood that made Britain.
394
00:23:08,400 --> 00:23:11,680
So, 450,000 years ago,
Norfolk would have looked
395
00:23:11,680 --> 00:23:13,960
considerably different than today.
396
00:23:13,960 --> 00:23:16,680
On this spot, there would
have been a huge ice sheet
397
00:23:16,680 --> 00:23:20,120
some kilometres above me.
398
00:23:20,120 --> 00:23:22,680
This glacier would not
only have covered Britain
399
00:23:22,680 --> 00:23:24,760
all the way down to London.
400
00:23:24,760 --> 00:23:28,760
Over thousands of years, a massive
lake also began to develop.
401
00:23:31,080 --> 00:23:34,600
That glacier was dumping all
of its meltwater into an enormous
402
00:23:34,600 --> 00:23:37,320
proglacial lake,
and I really mean enormous -
403
00:23:37,320 --> 00:23:41,320
we are talking
twice the size of Wales.
404
00:23:44,560 --> 00:23:47,520
It would have stretched all the way
from here to the Netherlands
405
00:23:47,520 --> 00:23:50,320
and down the coast some 200km,
where it was dammed
406
00:23:50,320 --> 00:23:54,320
by the enormous chalk ridge.
407
00:23:56,680 --> 00:24:00,040
That ridge was down south,
where the chalk land bridge
408
00:24:00,040 --> 00:24:03,400
once connected us to Europe.
409
00:24:03,400 --> 00:24:07,200
As I travel south, it's like
I am being pushed by that glacier
410
00:24:07,200 --> 00:24:10,600
right the way from Norfolk
all the way to London and beyond,
411
00:24:10,600 --> 00:24:13,360
because of course,
that glacier was the beginning
412
00:24:13,360 --> 00:24:14,840
of something much bigger.
413
00:24:14,840 --> 00:24:17,440
Something was brewing
and it was about to break
414
00:24:17,440 --> 00:24:21,440
and that happened
right down south, in Kent.
415
00:24:23,640 --> 00:24:27,640
The remains of that ancient chalk
ridge are here on the North Downs,
416
00:24:28,160 --> 00:24:32,160
just outside Maidstone in Kent.
417
00:24:36,720 --> 00:24:39,640
I'm actually
currently walking along a ridge,
418
00:24:39,640 --> 00:24:43,640
and there is a thin layer of soil,
but beneath that, it is all chalk.
419
00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:47,840
Now, this ridge that I'm standing
on stretches another 40 miles or so
420
00:24:47,840 --> 00:24:51,840
to Dover and, of course, back then,
it stretched even further
421
00:24:52,000 --> 00:24:55,120
and continued
all the way into France.
422
00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:59,120
The massive glacial lake built up
between Britain and northern Europe.
423
00:24:59,680 --> 00:25:02,280
It was the chalk land bridge
that connected us
424
00:25:02,280 --> 00:25:06,280
to Europe
that held those waters back.
425
00:25:07,040 --> 00:25:10,000
And that ridge
was effectively acting as a dam.
426
00:25:10,000 --> 00:25:14,000
It was holding back the waters
of that massive glacial lake.
427
00:25:16,800 --> 00:25:20,240
Flashes of white in the landscape
reveal the deep chalk beds
428
00:25:20,240 --> 00:25:24,240
under my feet
that make up the ridge.
429
00:25:25,920 --> 00:25:29,000
This is a unique habitat.
430
00:25:29,000 --> 00:25:32,160
Suddenly, I catch sight
of a creature that only
431
00:25:32,160 --> 00:25:35,360
makes its home
on this chalky downland.
432
00:25:35,360 --> 00:25:37,520
One of the things
I really wanted to see
433
00:25:37,520 --> 00:25:41,520
when I came up here on the chalk
ridge was a chalkhill blue.
434
00:25:41,840 --> 00:25:45,720
He is hunkering down, to avoid
this rather strong breeze.
435
00:25:45,720 --> 00:25:49,040
And you get these blue butterflies
on these chalk ridges
436
00:25:49,040 --> 00:25:52,160
because their larvae feed on
a type of plant that only really
437
00:25:52,160 --> 00:25:55,120
grows in these chalky ridges,
the horseshoe vetch.
438
00:25:55,120 --> 00:25:59,120
He is just exquisite.
439
00:26:00,080 --> 00:26:02,680
Today, the ridge
is not just a beauty spot
440
00:26:02,680 --> 00:26:05,560
in a long-forgotten link
to the Continent,
441
00:26:05,560 --> 00:26:09,040
there is another startling piece
of evidence that this is the same
442
00:26:09,040 --> 00:26:12,640
geological feature
that appears in northern France.
443
00:26:12,640 --> 00:26:16,640
And it is evidence
that you can taste.
444
00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:20,800
This corner of south-east England
is a great place to
445
00:26:20,800 --> 00:26:23,280
exploit our deep connection
with the Continent.
446
00:26:23,280 --> 00:26:27,280
It is all thanks to the stuff we are
driving over - the chalk bedrock.
447
00:26:30,840 --> 00:26:34,720
Here in Kent, a British wine grower
is taking advantage of this
448
00:26:34,720 --> 00:26:38,720
wonderful chalk ridge to grow
grapes, to be made into a very
449
00:26:38,920 --> 00:26:42,920
British version of an iconic
French product - Champagne.
450
00:26:46,240 --> 00:26:49,920
Chapel Down vineyard are cultivating
grapes destined for
451
00:26:49,920 --> 00:26:53,920
their award-winning wines, across
94 acres of chalky English fields.
452
00:26:57,520 --> 00:27:01,280
The main feature here on the
North Downs is this chalky soil.
453
00:27:01,280 --> 00:27:05,040
It promotes a much warmer soil
earlier in the spring,
454
00:27:05,040 --> 00:27:08,160
which means these vines can come
out of dormancy much earlier
455
00:27:08,160 --> 00:27:10,520
than some vines
which might be planted on
456
00:27:10,520 --> 00:27:12,960
the colder,
clayer soils of The Weald.
457
00:27:12,960 --> 00:27:15,200
But the added advantage
of chalk is that it acts
458
00:27:15,200 --> 00:27:17,560
a bit like a sponge,
so it will absorb water
459
00:27:17,560 --> 00:27:21,000
and that then releases the moisture
back to the roots gradually.
460
00:27:21,000 --> 00:27:24,160
So, am I looking at, basically,
the same sort of grapes you use
461
00:27:24,160 --> 00:27:27,640
as you would see going into a bottle
of classic Champagne? Yes.
462
00:27:27,640 --> 00:27:30,200
I mean, here we are growing
Pinot noir grapes.
463
00:27:30,200 --> 00:27:32,080
Pinot noir is one
of the main varieties
464
00:27:32,080 --> 00:27:33,560
which they grow in Champagne.
465
00:27:33,560 --> 00:27:35,560
These aren't into
the ripening phase yet,
466
00:27:35,560 --> 00:27:39,560
but they are developing
very quickly.
467
00:27:41,760 --> 00:27:45,760
EU regulations prohibit Chapel Down
from calling their sparkling wine
468
00:27:45,920 --> 00:27:48,400
Champagne,
but that hasn't stopped them
469
00:27:48,400 --> 00:27:52,400
from beating the French producers
in several competitions.
470
00:27:55,240 --> 00:27:58,000
Are people jealous?
Well, I think they are.
471
00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:00,760
They wouldn't say as much,
but we have had the visitors at the
472
00:28:00,760 --> 00:28:03,920
vineyard and they have been pretty
impressed with what they have seen.
473
00:28:03,920 --> 00:28:06,440
I'm imagining, you know,
Champagne vineyard owners
474
00:28:06,440 --> 00:28:09,600
with their binoculars on the ridge,
eyeing up the land.
475
00:28:09,600 --> 00:28:11,120
Who knows? You joke,
476
00:28:11,120 --> 00:28:13,720
I have heard rumours of
the champenoise coming over,
477
00:28:13,720 --> 00:28:16,640
looking at our land and thinking
it might be the next best thing.
478
00:28:16,640 --> 00:28:18,880
Really? But we'll see.
Next best thing?
479
00:28:18,880 --> 00:28:20,360
Well, to what they think.
480
00:28:20,360 --> 00:28:24,360
You're like,
"We know it's the best!" Absolutely.
481
00:28:25,720 --> 00:28:29,720
450,000 years ago, this chalk ridge
that held back the waters
482
00:28:30,440 --> 00:28:34,440
of the glacial lake
was on the brink of destruction.
483
00:28:34,600 --> 00:28:37,960
It was about to give way
in the most catastrophic flood
484
00:28:37,960 --> 00:28:42,700
Europe had ever seen.
485
00:28:48,440 --> 00:28:52,440
I'm investigating a mega flood that
happened half a million years ago.
486
00:28:53,400 --> 00:28:57,200
A catastrophe that helped separate
Britain from the continent
487
00:28:57,200 --> 00:29:01,200
and turn us into an island.
488
00:29:02,040 --> 00:29:05,080
I'm now at the south-east
of Britain in Dover
489
00:29:05,080 --> 00:29:08,480
where I'm seeing the cliffs
as they are meant to be seen -
490
00:29:08,480 --> 00:29:11,080
from the sea.
491
00:29:11,080 --> 00:29:14,120
The White Cliffs of Dover,
they are iconic and rightly so.
492
00:29:14,120 --> 00:29:16,240
They are gorgeous, especially
on a day like today
493
00:29:16,240 --> 00:29:19,520
with that pure calcite
glinting in the sunlight.
494
00:29:19,520 --> 00:29:23,280
Bright white chalk in places
100 metres high, these cliffs.
495
00:29:23,280 --> 00:29:25,800
But of course, that chalk extends
further down, deeper
496
00:29:25,800 --> 00:29:29,480
and from here in Dover, it
extends across south-east England,
497
00:29:29,480 --> 00:29:32,080
all the way into Norfolk.
498
00:29:32,080 --> 00:29:36,080
But of course, it's their
emotional link to the British Isles
499
00:29:36,080 --> 00:29:38,240
that we really recognise them for.
500
00:29:38,240 --> 00:29:40,400
The last thing that many a sailor
is seeing
501
00:29:40,400 --> 00:29:42,320
when leaving home for distant lands.
502
00:29:42,320 --> 00:29:46,240
The first things that many a war
veteran has seen when coming home.
503
00:29:46,240 --> 00:29:50,240
They are the quintessential image,
if you like, of our island nation.
504
00:29:50,280 --> 00:29:54,280
In many ways, in many of our hearts,
they define Britain.
505
00:29:57,320 --> 00:30:01,320
At their highest point, the cliffs
stand proud of the sea
at 110 metres.
506
00:30:02,080 --> 00:30:03,280
Taller than Big Ben
507
00:30:03,280 --> 00:30:07,280
and the same height as 25 London
buses stacked on top of each other.
508
00:30:11,400 --> 00:30:14,200
You get used to thinking of these
cliffs as being here forever
509
00:30:14,200 --> 00:30:16,760
but of course,
they are dynamic in their own way.
510
00:30:16,760 --> 00:30:19,800
The sea is eating away at them,
day by day
511
00:30:19,800 --> 00:30:23,280
and they are actually eroding at a
rate of about a centimetre a year.
512
00:30:23,280 --> 00:30:26,160
Sometimes, that erosion happens
faster and huge chunks fall off
513
00:30:26,160 --> 00:30:30,160
and you can see on the
cliffside, where it's slumped.
514
00:30:39,960 --> 00:30:42,720
The Straits of Dover have been
Britain's first line of defence
515
00:30:42,720 --> 00:30:45,760
against invasion
for thousands of years.
516
00:30:45,760 --> 00:30:48,640
But the cliffs also
did their duty during World War II,
517
00:30:48,640 --> 00:30:52,640
to protect us from the Nazi threat.
518
00:30:54,560 --> 00:30:56,640
A string of heavy guns
were installed
519
00:30:56,640 --> 00:30:59,360
with their sight
trained on the Channel.
520
00:30:59,360 --> 00:31:02,440
The tunnels that provided protection
and living space for the soldiers
521
00:31:02,440 --> 00:31:06,440
that manned those guns are known as
the Fan Bay Deep Shelter.
522
00:31:09,440 --> 00:31:12,760
Newly opened, the tunnels give me
the opportunity to examine
523
00:31:12,760 --> 00:31:16,760
this ancient chalk, laid down
around 90 million years ago.
524
00:31:17,840 --> 00:31:20,720
Well, here is the chalk,
that's for sure.
525
00:31:20,720 --> 00:31:23,640
It is the same stuff the Channel
Tunnel's going through and taking us
526
00:31:23,640 --> 00:31:26,440
to Europe today. It is
a great tunnelling material.
527
00:31:26,440 --> 00:31:28,320
And look down here.
528
00:31:28,320 --> 00:31:31,560
Really, really striking, solid
layer.
529
00:31:31,560 --> 00:31:35,400
The flint is running
all the way along...
530
00:31:35,400 --> 00:31:37,120
..deeper and deeper in.
531
00:31:37,120 --> 00:31:39,320
You can see the signs of
the handiwork of the people
532
00:31:39,320 --> 00:31:40,960
who were actually living down here.
533
00:31:40,960 --> 00:31:43,200
Look, this is a bit of graffiti.
534
00:31:43,200 --> 00:31:47,200
1940.
535
00:31:47,600 --> 00:31:51,600
Amazing to think that all this stuff
is actually the remnants of
536
00:31:52,040 --> 00:31:56,040
billions of tiny, tiny marine algae
that sunk like rain or snow
537
00:31:58,280 --> 00:31:59,960
to the bottom of the sea floor.
538
00:31:59,960 --> 00:32:03,080
And amongst those tiny organisms,
there was also
539
00:32:03,080 --> 00:32:05,360
some bigger things.
I mean, look at this.
540
00:32:05,360 --> 00:32:09,360
Maybe some kind of mollusc,
definitely a fossil.
541
00:32:10,680 --> 00:32:14,680
So, it would
have taken maybe a million years
542
00:32:14,720 --> 00:32:17,880
just for 20-30 metres of this stuff
to be deposited
543
00:32:17,880 --> 00:32:21,600
and these cliffs are 300 metres
high in places.
544
00:32:21,600 --> 00:32:25,600
That is ten million years
of accumulated animal life
545
00:32:27,120 --> 00:32:29,800
built up there.
546
00:32:29,800 --> 00:32:33,800
It is quite wonderful.
547
00:32:34,720 --> 00:32:38,720
450,000 years ago, this massive
layer of chalk would have
548
00:32:39,080 --> 00:32:43,080
extended across the English Channel
into France.
549
00:32:46,120 --> 00:32:49,040
Dr Jenny Collier
of Imperial College London
550
00:32:49,040 --> 00:32:53,040
has long been fascinated by the
disappearance of the land bridge.
551
00:32:53,560 --> 00:32:56,440
It is actually really easy
to understand that it actually
552
00:32:56,440 --> 00:32:58,680
is the same rock unit going
all the way across.
553
00:32:58,680 --> 00:33:02,200
You can see the white cliffs over
there in France and they continue
554
00:33:02,200 --> 00:33:06,000
right across here
to our Dover cliffs.
555
00:33:06,000 --> 00:33:08,600
When the land bridge existed
all those years ago,
556
00:33:08,600 --> 00:33:11,960
this view would have been
very different.
557
00:33:11,960 --> 00:33:14,240
This would actually all be dry land,
out front of us,
558
00:33:14,240 --> 00:33:15,480
where we've got the sea here.
559
00:33:15,480 --> 00:33:17,400
As the chalk dipped down to
lower levels,
560
00:33:17,400 --> 00:33:20,120
it would have just continued
down into a dry valley,
561
00:33:20,120 --> 00:33:24,120
maybe with a few rivers. Yeah.
562
00:33:27,520 --> 00:33:30,880
Jenny and her team discovered clues
to what removed the chalky
563
00:33:30,880 --> 00:33:34,760
land bridge when they were doing
a sonar survey of the seabed
564
00:33:34,760 --> 00:33:37,600
under the English Channel.
565
00:33:37,600 --> 00:33:40,160
It had long been postulated that
something dramatic
566
00:33:40,160 --> 00:33:43,040
had happened to remove this great
big rock ridge
567
00:33:43,040 --> 00:33:47,040
but no-one really had the evidence
for it and we actually found it
568
00:33:47,240 --> 00:33:51,240
genuinely by mistake, by doing
some surveys down to the west
569
00:33:51,560 --> 00:33:53,600
towards the Isle of Wight.
570
00:33:53,600 --> 00:33:56,840
And we just found this huge,
great big valley,
571
00:33:56,840 --> 00:34:00,840
carved into the floor of the English
Channel about ten miles wide.
572
00:34:01,400 --> 00:34:04,000
A valley as deep as this could
only have been created
573
00:34:04,000 --> 00:34:08,000
by an extremely powerful
flood event.
574
00:34:08,280 --> 00:34:12,280
For Jenny and the team, all evidence
pointed to the huge glacial lake
575
00:34:12,560 --> 00:34:16,560
full to bursting to the
north of the chalk land bridge.
576
00:34:16,800 --> 00:34:20,000
Because we knew we had the lake,
this was obviously a perfect source
577
00:34:20,000 --> 00:34:23,200
of the volume of water we needed and
then we've also got the rock ridge
578
00:34:23,200 --> 00:34:26,960
giving us all the lumps of
material to make the gouges.
579
00:34:26,960 --> 00:34:30,160
And to gouge rock, needs a high
amount of force
580
00:34:30,160 --> 00:34:33,000
so we'd have had lots of ice
on the lake as well,
581
00:34:33,000 --> 00:34:35,640
those would have been
thundering down as well.
582
00:34:35,640 --> 00:34:39,640
The chalk ridge gave way
in a cataclysmic one-off event.
583
00:34:39,880 --> 00:34:42,960
Across a period thought to be
as short as three weeks,
584
00:34:42,960 --> 00:34:46,960
over a million cubic metres
of water per second broke through,
585
00:34:47,120 --> 00:34:51,120
destroying the ridge and crashing
down onto the valley below.
586
00:34:52,880 --> 00:34:55,640
I mean, today, the flow rate over
Niagara Falls, for example,
587
00:34:55,640 --> 00:34:59,640
it would be 300 times that.
588
00:35:01,320 --> 00:35:03,720
That must have shook.
589
00:35:03,720 --> 00:35:06,560
Yeah, it would have been deafening,
a very dangerous place to be
590
00:35:06,560 --> 00:35:10,560
and just a phenomenal,
catastrophic event.
591
00:35:10,760 --> 00:35:14,240
Would you have needed something else
to fragment the ridge,
592
00:35:14,240 --> 00:35:15,560
to sort of kick it off?
593
00:35:15,560 --> 00:35:17,880
We know there are small
earthquakes in this area
594
00:35:17,880 --> 00:35:21,880
and perhaps there was a small earth
tremor that just set it off.
595
00:35:23,960 --> 00:35:27,720
A seismic event, this time
a volcanic eruption, was the trigger
596
00:35:27,720 --> 00:35:31,720
for a similar but much smaller
glacial flood in Iceland in 2010.
597
00:35:33,320 --> 00:35:36,680
This footage, shot from a news
helicopter at the time,
598
00:35:36,680 --> 00:35:40,680
is both fascinating
and slightly horrifying.
599
00:35:40,880 --> 00:35:43,880
It gives you an idea of just
how ferocious
600
00:35:43,880 --> 00:35:47,880
and apocalyptic these events can be.
601
00:36:12,200 --> 00:36:15,240
Jenny and her team have only ever
visualised the underwater channel
602
00:36:15,240 --> 00:36:16,760
using sonar.
603
00:36:16,760 --> 00:36:20,760
They have never set eyes on it.
604
00:36:23,280 --> 00:36:25,840
So, we have come to Gosport to
do something
605
00:36:25,840 --> 00:36:29,840
that has never been done before.
606
00:36:31,360 --> 00:36:33,520
This is going to be
an interesting day.
607
00:36:33,520 --> 00:36:37,280
It is pretty exciting. We are
going out to roughly halfway
608
00:36:37,280 --> 00:36:40,200
between Britain and France in the
middle of the English Channel
609
00:36:40,200 --> 00:36:43,000
and we're going to go deep
underwater, 70 metres deep,
610
00:36:43,000 --> 00:36:45,800
to see what is down there.
Hopefully, we will find some
611
00:36:45,800 --> 00:36:49,560
evidence of the mega flood that
Jenny has seen on her sonar scans.
612
00:36:49,560 --> 00:36:50,880
However,
613
00:36:50,880 --> 00:36:53,520
the wind's picking up...
614
00:36:53,520 --> 00:36:57,240
..we are in the middle of a shipping
channel, we are diving deeper than
615
00:36:57,240 --> 00:37:01,240
most people tend to dive in this
area, it is completely unexplored
616
00:37:03,320 --> 00:37:05,360
and we don't really know
what is going to happen.
617
00:37:05,360 --> 00:37:07,040
I'd like to say I was confident...
618
00:37:07,040 --> 00:37:10,400
I am confident, no, I am completely
confident we are going to do well.
619
00:37:10,400 --> 00:37:14,400
Unfortunately, there is a lot
working against us so we shall see.
620
00:37:18,120 --> 00:37:22,120
But I'm not going to
put on a wet suit.
621
00:37:23,480 --> 00:37:26,120
Adrian Glover from the
Natural History Museum
622
00:37:26,120 --> 00:37:29,360
has brought along a submersible,
remote-operated vessel,
623
00:37:29,360 --> 00:37:33,360
nicknamed Rex, to act as our
eyes underwater.
624
00:37:33,880 --> 00:37:35,920
So it is a mini sort of
remote control submarine
625
00:37:35,920 --> 00:37:38,720
but with a tether, a line that
connects it to your computers here?
626
00:37:38,720 --> 00:37:41,600
That's right. We're way too deep
for diving, where we're going.
627
00:37:41,600 --> 00:37:45,600
That is what an ROV brings you, the
ability to work beyond scuba depths.
628
00:37:46,200 --> 00:37:47,880
We're going to see, hopefully,
629
00:37:47,880 --> 00:37:50,280
evidence of the sides
of these channels.
630
00:37:50,280 --> 00:37:54,160
It is the freshness of the landscape
which is so remarkable and it is,
631
00:37:54,160 --> 00:37:58,160
I say, the tides have just swept it
all out for us. Brilliant.
632
00:38:06,840 --> 00:38:09,240
The trip to the edge
of the underwater valley
633
00:38:09,240 --> 00:38:12,680
will take a good three hours.
634
00:38:12,680 --> 00:38:16,440
We've just left port and we are
passing the Isle of Wight over
there.
635
00:38:16,440 --> 00:38:20,120
We are in the sheltered part
of the Channel right now.
636
00:38:20,120 --> 00:38:24,080
I can see the ships passing by out
there, lots of container ships.
637
00:38:24,080 --> 00:38:25,840
Yeah.
638
00:38:25,840 --> 00:38:27,720
Onwards.
639
00:38:27,720 --> 00:38:30,880
But enough worrying about getting
run over by a tanker,
640
00:38:30,880 --> 00:38:34,240
it is time to do some science.
641
00:38:34,240 --> 00:38:38,080
What we're looking at on this map is
actually a map of the sea floor
642
00:38:38,080 --> 00:38:39,680
and it is these reds, these yellows,
643
00:38:39,680 --> 00:38:43,400
these greens...are all telling you
the depth and this blue,
644
00:38:43,400 --> 00:38:47,400
that is the deepest bit yet
and that is where we are headed for.
645
00:38:48,840 --> 00:38:52,840
We are on our way out to the middle
of the English Channel.
646
00:38:54,160 --> 00:38:58,160
Here,
we'll send Rex down to the seabed.
647
00:38:59,520 --> 00:39:01,200
Through Rex's onboard camera,
648
00:39:01,200 --> 00:39:06,000
We hope to gaze into the
half a million-year-old mega flood
valley itself.
649
00:39:18,000 --> 00:39:22,000
'It's been a three-hour journey to
the middle of the English Channel.
650
00:39:24,800 --> 00:39:28,360
'Thankfully,
the weather has improved.'
651
00:39:28,360 --> 00:39:30,880
We're very close,
within 100 metres or so.
652
00:39:30,880 --> 00:39:32,400
Almost there.
653
00:39:32,400 --> 00:39:35,760
'Finally, we're at the spot
where we'll send our
654
00:39:35,760 --> 00:39:39,400
'remote-operated submarine,
Rex, underwater.'
655
00:39:39,400 --> 00:39:42,760
So we're now,
I guess, about here. Cool.
656
00:39:42,760 --> 00:39:45,880
'Along with scientist Jenny Collier,
I'm hoping to get a glimpse
657
00:39:45,880 --> 00:39:49,880
'of the ancient channel carved by
the mega flood that made Britain.'
658
00:39:52,640 --> 00:39:55,120
So, are we almost here?
Well, we are here. We're here?
659
00:39:55,120 --> 00:39:57,720
So, what Graham's doing
is just bringing the boat around,
660
00:39:57,720 --> 00:39:59,760
so we're just doing
a couple of profiles
661
00:39:59,760 --> 00:40:02,640
just to make sure
we're on the cliff edge.
662
00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:04,880
'The skipper positions the boat
over the valley
663
00:40:04,880 --> 00:40:08,880
'that Jenny's team
found on the seabed.
664
00:40:09,080 --> 00:40:11,760
'We want to drop Rex on to
the edge of the valley
665
00:40:11,760 --> 00:40:15,760
'so he can get a good look down the
slope of the mega-flood channel.'
666
00:40:16,600 --> 00:40:19,720
Probably we're going to have Rex in
the water in about 20 minutes' time,
667
00:40:19,720 --> 00:40:22,240
but we want to make sure
we've got no uncertainties,
668
00:40:22,240 --> 00:40:25,360
it's exactly where the cliff edge
is going to be.
669
00:40:25,360 --> 00:40:28,120
It looks so featureless out there.
670
00:40:28,120 --> 00:40:30,160
Expanse of water. Nice and calm.
671
00:40:30,160 --> 00:40:34,160
But it does belie what's beneath us.
672
00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:38,520
It's action stations. The team get
to work, preparing for the dive.
673
00:40:40,200 --> 00:40:43,360
OK, Adrian, we're all hooked up,
ready to power up.
674
00:40:43,360 --> 00:40:47,360
OK, vertical thrust,
to check, coming up now. OK.
675
00:40:48,000 --> 00:40:49,600
Main thrust is all good.
676
00:40:49,600 --> 00:40:52,440
And lights check.
677
00:40:52,440 --> 00:40:55,320
Lights OK. Happy.
678
00:40:55,320 --> 00:40:57,200
With a clean bill of health...
679
00:40:57,200 --> 00:40:58,720
Off she goes.
680
00:40:58,720 --> 00:41:02,560
..Rex is over the side
and on his way.
681
00:41:02,560 --> 00:41:06,560
All yours, Adrian. Copy that, John.
682
00:41:12,080 --> 00:41:14,200
OK, we're going down very fast.
683
00:41:14,200 --> 00:41:16,200
We're now at 40 metres. Wow!
684
00:41:16,200 --> 00:41:18,080
OK, still going down.
685
00:41:18,080 --> 00:41:21,520
Well, it looks like a lot of snow,
686
00:41:21,520 --> 00:41:23,720
but clearly it's not,
cos it's underwater.
687
00:41:23,720 --> 00:41:26,360
Going through a layer
with quite a bit of
688
00:41:26,360 --> 00:41:29,680
resuspended bottom sediment,
I suspect.
689
00:41:29,680 --> 00:41:33,680
'Worryingly, the water seems
to be full of suspended sediment.'
690
00:41:34,920 --> 00:41:37,080
OK, coming up on 45 metres.
691
00:41:37,080 --> 00:41:38,520
4-5 metres.
692
00:41:38,520 --> 00:41:40,760
'If the seabed is covered
in mud and sand,
693
00:41:40,760 --> 00:41:44,320
'we might not be able
to see the drop off.'
694
00:41:44,320 --> 00:41:48,320
We're at 56 metres now. I suspect
any moment now we should touch down.
695
00:41:50,760 --> 00:41:53,520
There's the sea floor. Oh, yeah.
696
00:41:53,520 --> 00:41:57,520
Great visibility. Yeah. That's cool.
697
00:41:58,080 --> 00:42:01,680
'At 60 metres down, there it is.'
698
00:42:01,680 --> 00:42:04,840
We are basically
on a slope on the seabed.
699
00:42:04,840 --> 00:42:08,840
'Rex's position marker shows
that he is sliding down into
700
00:42:08,880 --> 00:42:12,880
'the vast flood channel discovered
by Jenny and her team.
701
00:42:14,040 --> 00:42:16,160
'Through Rex's camera,
702
00:42:16,160 --> 00:42:20,160
'we are gazing at something
never before seen by human eyes.'
703
00:42:20,640 --> 00:42:22,440
It looks like a drop off.
704
00:42:22,440 --> 00:42:23,880
We're seeing off the edge.
705
00:42:23,880 --> 00:42:27,080
These are really prominent sides.
It's like a precipice.
706
00:42:27,080 --> 00:42:30,080
What you expected?
It's better than I expected.
707
00:42:30,080 --> 00:42:32,120
We're pushing it
a bit at the boundaries.
708
00:42:32,120 --> 00:42:34,560
There's a reason why people
don't do this very often.
709
00:42:34,560 --> 00:42:36,200
That's right. I'm quite nervous.
710
00:42:36,200 --> 00:42:38,960
My heart rate is going up
and I find this quite stressful,
711
00:42:38,960 --> 00:42:40,640
and we're recording the data,
712
00:42:40,640 --> 00:42:43,240
we're getting images of an area
of the sea floor that,
713
00:42:43,240 --> 00:42:46,800
basically, nobody ever looks at,
because it's so hard to get to.
714
00:42:46,800 --> 00:42:49,680
So, here's the edge of that
60-metre contour.
715
00:42:49,680 --> 00:42:52,840
Down each of these contour lines,
getting deeper and deeper and deeper
716
00:42:52,840 --> 00:42:56,280
and, as you can see,
Rex is this little red spot here.
717
00:42:56,280 --> 00:43:00,280
He's being bounced down
the edge of this slope.
718
00:43:01,040 --> 00:43:04,080
'At first,
the drop off looks barren,
719
00:43:04,080 --> 00:43:06,680
'but marine biologist
Adrian's eagle eyes
720
00:43:06,680 --> 00:43:09,920
'spot a thriving community
of sea life.'
721
00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:11,960
Oh, that is a coral.
722
00:43:11,960 --> 00:43:14,200
So, that is what's called
a Dead Man's Finger,
723
00:43:14,200 --> 00:43:16,640
Alcyonium Digitatum.
724
00:43:16,640 --> 00:43:18,240
'As a suspension feeder,
725
00:43:18,240 --> 00:43:22,240
'the Dead Man's Finger
can thrive in the gloomy depths.'
726
00:43:22,560 --> 00:43:25,920
You get these kinds of corals
in UK waters.
727
00:43:25,920 --> 00:43:28,360
This is an anemone.
Oh, look, yeah. It's beautiful.
728
00:43:28,360 --> 00:43:30,560
See that sea anemone
on the bottom right?
729
00:43:30,560 --> 00:43:33,440
There's actually really
very high biodiversity here.
730
00:43:33,440 --> 00:43:34,880
It's quite interesting.
731
00:43:34,880 --> 00:43:36,880
If you just take
a few square metres of this,
732
00:43:36,880 --> 00:43:39,120
you'd find many, many species.
733
00:43:39,120 --> 00:43:42,880
'All these species are adapted
to fast-flowing currents.
734
00:43:42,880 --> 00:43:45,080
'They feed
on the nutrient-rich water
735
00:43:45,080 --> 00:43:48,280
'flowing at high speed around them.
736
00:43:48,280 --> 00:43:52,000
'And, if it wasn't for these rapid
currents, the drop off might
737
00:43:52,000 --> 00:43:55,720
'never have been discovered
during the original sonar survey.'
738
00:43:55,720 --> 00:43:57,320
Many people have said to us,
739
00:43:57,320 --> 00:43:59,880
"It's 400,000 years old,
why's it still there?"
740
00:43:59,880 --> 00:44:01,920
And actually we think
probably in the past,
741
00:44:01,920 --> 00:44:04,960
it was covered with sediments,
but today, because of these extreme
742
00:44:04,960 --> 00:44:08,880
tides we have, it's all swept clean
and we're seeing that today.
743
00:44:08,880 --> 00:44:12,880
So it's being revealed to us for
the first time in 420,000 years?
744
00:44:14,920 --> 00:44:18,920
Absolutely, absolutely.
It's remarkable.
745
00:44:19,280 --> 00:44:23,000
It's great to see the mega flood
channel with the naked eye.
746
00:44:23,000 --> 00:44:25,400
There's a boulder.
Small boulders there in front of us.
747
00:44:25,400 --> 00:44:26,920
There's a bit of chalk.
748
00:44:26,920 --> 00:44:30,920
'And it seems we have also found
lots of chalk boulders.
749
00:44:31,160 --> 00:44:33,480
'They could be debris
from the chalk ridge
750
00:44:33,480 --> 00:44:36,560
'that once connected us to France.'
751
00:44:36,560 --> 00:44:40,560
A few lumps about this big,
based on the size of Rex's pincers,
752
00:44:40,640 --> 00:44:43,280
you do wonder, don't you,
how far they've rolled
753
00:44:43,280 --> 00:44:46,240
and when they first landed there?
754
00:44:46,240 --> 00:44:50,240
The mega flood probably only raged
for a few weeks but in the aftermath
755
00:44:50,760 --> 00:44:54,760
of the catastrophe, the chalky
ridge would have been obliterated.
756
00:44:55,400 --> 00:44:58,080
In the hundreds of thousands
of years to come,
757
00:44:58,080 --> 00:45:02,040
Britain would have been accessible
during periods of low sea level.
758
00:45:02,040 --> 00:45:05,760
That huge chalk ridge
that connected us to Europe
759
00:45:05,760 --> 00:45:09,760
was a thing of the past.
760
00:45:15,320 --> 00:45:19,120
We saw with our own eyes
the evidence for this mega flood.
761
00:45:19,120 --> 00:45:23,080
It really brings it home to you
that the shape of the seafloor
762
00:45:23,080 --> 00:45:26,760
that lies beneath, which you don't
get at all any sense of when
763
00:45:26,760 --> 00:45:30,760
you're out here, particularly on
a calm day, definitely a privilege.
764
00:45:33,760 --> 00:45:37,080
My journey has taken me from
the first humans in Britain
765
00:45:37,080 --> 00:45:41,080
to the mega flood that destroyed
the chalk land bridge.
766
00:45:43,640 --> 00:45:46,400
It's been a story of mammoths.
767
00:45:46,400 --> 00:45:48,480
Priceless objects.
768
00:45:48,480 --> 00:45:52,480
Amazing connections to the continent
and fantastic scientific discoveries
769
00:45:53,320 --> 00:45:57,320
that fundamentally changed
the way we think about Britain.
770
00:45:57,560 --> 00:46:00,920
But, after all this talk
about us as an island nation,
771
00:46:00,920 --> 00:46:04,920
I can't help feeling
how connected we are to Europe.
772
00:46:06,080 --> 00:46:09,040
We think of ourselves
as an island nation, don't we?
773
00:46:09,040 --> 00:46:12,720
But it took a catastrophic event
of unimaginable scale to tear
774
00:46:12,720 --> 00:46:14,440
us asunder from the Continent.
775
00:46:14,440 --> 00:46:18,440
A connection that had lasted
millions of years, gone in a moment.
776
00:46:18,600 --> 00:46:20,920
And you haven't got
to look very deeply
777
00:46:20,920 --> 00:46:24,360
at the surface of our country
to discover our European roots.
778
00:46:24,360 --> 00:46:28,360
So, Europe is closer than you think.
779
00:46:51,720 --> 00:46:59,200
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