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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,800 --> 00:00:05,040 Have you ever wondered why Britain is an island 2 00:00:05,040 --> 00:00:08,560 and why these cliffs, the White Cliffs of Dover, look so very 3 00:00:08,560 --> 00:00:12,080 remarkably similar to the ones over there on the other side in France? 4 00:00:12,080 --> 00:00:16,080 Well, half a million years ago, they were joined by a land bridge. 5 00:00:16,520 --> 00:00:19,840 It took a catastrophe, a one-in-a-million event, 6 00:00:19,840 --> 00:00:23,840 to change all of that. 7 00:00:23,960 --> 00:00:26,600 The land bridge that connected us to the continent was washed 8 00:00:26,600 --> 00:00:30,600 away in the biggest flooding disaster ever seen in Europe... 9 00:00:31,480 --> 00:00:33,680 ..where a lake twice the size of Wales 10 00:00:33,680 --> 00:00:35,680 drained in a matter of weeks, 11 00:00:35,680 --> 00:00:38,640 gouging out the English Channel. 12 00:00:38,640 --> 00:00:42,640 It was a megaflood and that flood changed the face of our nation. 13 00:00:46,680 --> 00:00:49,480 As a palaeontologist and evolutionary biologist, 14 00:00:49,480 --> 00:00:53,480 I'm fascinated by the awe-inspiring geological events that created 15 00:00:53,760 --> 00:00:56,200 the island of Britain... 16 00:00:56,200 --> 00:00:58,240 The earth must have shook. 17 00:00:58,240 --> 00:01:00,040 Yeah, it would have been deafening. 18 00:01:00,040 --> 00:01:01,960 I mean, a catastrophic event. 19 00:01:01,960 --> 00:01:05,960 ..the mysterious lives of our prehistoric ancestors... 20 00:01:05,960 --> 00:01:07,560 That is beautiful. 21 00:01:07,560 --> 00:01:11,000 ..and the mega-beasts that lived alongside them. 22 00:01:11,000 --> 00:01:13,840 Look at its enormous tusk. 23 00:01:13,840 --> 00:01:16,720 I'm going to set out on foot to walk through time 24 00:01:16,720 --> 00:01:19,240 and discover this long, lost world 25 00:01:19,240 --> 00:01:22,160 before Britain became cut off from the Continent 26 00:01:22,160 --> 00:01:26,160 in a one-in-a-million catastrophe. 27 00:01:40,440 --> 00:01:44,400 My journey through time starts over half a million years ago 28 00:01:44,400 --> 00:01:48,400 along the beaches of North Norfolk... 29 00:01:50,240 --> 00:01:53,480 ..where mega-beasts and ancient humans could walk across 30 00:01:53,480 --> 00:01:57,480 the land bridge that connected Britain to Europe. 31 00:01:58,960 --> 00:02:01,200 My journey continues down to Kent, 32 00:02:01,200 --> 00:02:05,200 along the North Downs to the White Cliffs of Dover. 33 00:02:05,720 --> 00:02:09,720 Finally, I'll go under water off the coast of south-east Britain 34 00:02:09,760 --> 00:02:12,160 to witness the evidence for the megaflood. 35 00:02:12,160 --> 00:02:14,240 Oh! Wow! 36 00:02:14,240 --> 00:02:16,480 Great visibility. Yeah. 37 00:02:16,480 --> 00:02:20,480 That's cool. 38 00:02:22,200 --> 00:02:25,600 One million years ago these cliffs didn't exist. 39 00:02:25,600 --> 00:02:28,160 They would just have been a rolling ridge 40 00:02:28,160 --> 00:02:31,360 stretching as far as the eye can see into the horizon. 41 00:02:31,360 --> 00:02:33,920 There would have been no Straits of Dover, 42 00:02:33,920 --> 00:02:36,080 there would have been no English Channel. 43 00:02:36,080 --> 00:02:39,520 But something happened to destroy that land ridge 44 00:02:39,520 --> 00:02:43,520 and ultimately turn us into an island. 45 00:02:45,480 --> 00:02:48,240 First I want to get an idea of what Britain looked like 46 00:02:48,240 --> 00:02:50,920 when it was connected to the Continent. What lived here? 47 00:02:50,920 --> 00:02:52,560 What animals? Who lived here? 48 00:02:52,560 --> 00:02:53,920 Were there humans? 49 00:02:53,920 --> 00:02:57,920 The best place to do that is the coast of Norfolk. 50 00:02:59,760 --> 00:03:02,840 Norfolk was right next to the span of land that once 51 00:03:02,840 --> 00:03:06,840 connected us to Europe. 52 00:03:08,880 --> 00:03:11,440 My first impulse in any new place is to get 53 00:03:11,440 --> 00:03:15,440 the lie of the land from a high vantage point. 54 00:03:16,960 --> 00:03:19,520 Being seven months pregnant should never get in the way 55 00:03:19,520 --> 00:03:23,040 of a good view. 56 00:03:23,040 --> 00:03:26,120 I've just climbed 133 steps to the top of the tower 57 00:03:26,120 --> 00:03:29,360 of St Mary's Church in Happisburgh to get my first 58 00:03:29,360 --> 00:03:31,960 proper glimpse of the Norfolk coastline, 59 00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:35,960 and what a view. 60 00:03:36,560 --> 00:03:40,200 If I was here 800,000 years ago or so, 61 00:03:40,200 --> 00:03:42,160 I wouldn't be looking at the sea at all, 62 00:03:42,160 --> 00:03:45,640 I'd be looking across a really wide river estuary. 63 00:03:45,640 --> 00:03:49,640 And so all around me I'd be looking down on lush river delta. 64 00:03:50,040 --> 00:03:53,600 I might even catch the distant trumpet of a mammoth, 65 00:03:53,600 --> 00:03:57,600 or the trampling of hooves of a large herd of bison. 66 00:04:00,400 --> 00:04:04,400 In warm periods, this was a world populated by huge mammals 67 00:04:04,520 --> 00:04:07,680 that came and went from the Continent across the land bridge. 68 00:04:07,680 --> 00:04:09,560 If I was very lucky, 69 00:04:09,560 --> 00:04:13,200 I might catch a glimpse of some people 70 00:04:13,200 --> 00:04:17,200 wandering along the river bank. 71 00:04:19,920 --> 00:04:22,120 Evidence for these ancient species of human 72 00:04:22,120 --> 00:04:24,760 that were so very different to us today 73 00:04:24,760 --> 00:04:28,200 is found here on the beaches of Norfolk. 74 00:04:28,200 --> 00:04:32,200 And sometimes, so too are the remains of very, very big animals. 75 00:04:35,200 --> 00:04:39,200 Alongside me is a deposit that is known as the Cromer Forest Bed. 76 00:04:39,840 --> 00:04:43,240 In particular this bit is known as the West Runton Fresh Water Bed 77 00:04:43,240 --> 00:04:44,720 because that's what it is. 78 00:04:44,720 --> 00:04:47,880 We're on a beach but this here, all of this stuff, 79 00:04:47,880 --> 00:04:50,040 is not beach sediment. 80 00:04:50,040 --> 00:04:52,560 As you peel back the surface, you can 81 00:04:52,560 --> 00:04:55,000 immediately see it's not sand, 82 00:04:55,000 --> 00:04:56,960 it's soil. 83 00:04:56,960 --> 00:05:00,280 It's the kind of thing that would be deposited in a really 84 00:05:00,280 --> 00:05:02,720 slow-moving, tranquil river. 85 00:05:02,720 --> 00:05:04,520 I kind of imagine slow waters, 86 00:05:04,520 --> 00:05:06,960 marshes, some grassland around the edge 87 00:05:06,960 --> 00:05:09,000 and in the distance maybe a forest. 88 00:05:09,000 --> 00:05:11,920 A few stoats might run by, a mole, squirrel - 89 00:05:11,920 --> 00:05:15,920 very quintessentially English, until a hyena sticks its head out 90 00:05:17,160 --> 00:05:20,240 and is followed by a sabre-tooth cat or a lion, or a lynx. 91 00:05:20,240 --> 00:05:23,120 Suddenly, you're in a slightly different world altogether. 92 00:05:23,120 --> 00:05:27,120 That's West Runton 700,000 years ago. 93 00:05:28,160 --> 00:05:30,840 Here on the beach at West Runton, something amazing was 94 00:05:30,840 --> 00:05:34,840 discovered that had been hidden for hundreds of thousands of years. 95 00:05:36,840 --> 00:05:38,480 Here we go. 96 00:05:38,480 --> 00:05:42,480 In 1990, children's nursery assistant Margaret Hems 97 00:05:42,480 --> 00:05:44,200 and her late husband, Harold, 98 00:05:44,200 --> 00:05:48,200 were searching for fossils in the run-up to Christmas. 99 00:05:48,480 --> 00:05:50,160 So, Margaret, tell me 100 00:05:50,160 --> 00:05:53,040 a little bit about how you came down to the beach in the first place. 101 00:05:53,040 --> 00:05:55,680 There was an announcement saying that there was going to be 102 00:05:55,680 --> 00:05:59,680 a high tide, high winds and possible flooding at Blakeney 103 00:05:59,880 --> 00:06:02,640 and my husband and I, we looked at one another and said, 104 00:06:02,640 --> 00:06:06,240 he said to me, "An early start in the morning." That's what we did. 105 00:06:06,240 --> 00:06:09,640 So you were walking along the beach and something caught your eye. 106 00:06:09,640 --> 00:06:13,640 I saw this round piece in the bed and I knew it was a fossil. 107 00:06:14,280 --> 00:06:16,840 Do have any photos? Yes, I have. 108 00:06:16,840 --> 00:06:19,000 Look at that! 109 00:06:19,000 --> 00:06:20,440 That one seems to be popular. 110 00:06:20,440 --> 00:06:22,320 That is what you found? Yes. 111 00:06:22,320 --> 00:06:25,800 Explain to me the bit that you saw first. This piece here. 112 00:06:25,800 --> 00:06:29,800 I started digging carefully around and in the end it was the pelvis. 113 00:06:29,880 --> 00:06:31,240 Wow! 114 00:06:31,240 --> 00:06:34,480 My husband, when he saw that, said it could only be an elephant 115 00:06:34,480 --> 00:06:38,480 but we didn't know what kind of elephant. 116 00:06:39,040 --> 00:06:42,600 Margaret and Harold had made an astonishing discovery - 117 00:06:42,600 --> 00:06:46,600 an almost-complete skeleton of the largest mammoth known to science. 118 00:06:51,880 --> 00:06:55,880 How does it feel to have been the discoverer of one of the most 119 00:06:55,880 --> 00:06:58,840 complete mammoth skeletons ever found? 120 00:06:58,840 --> 00:07:00,360 It is very, very exciting. 121 00:07:00,360 --> 00:07:03,160 It put West Runton on the map, didn't it? 122 00:07:03,160 --> 00:07:05,440 It's internationally famous. 123 00:07:05,440 --> 00:07:08,200 I remember thinking while we were digging it out, 124 00:07:08,200 --> 00:07:11,400 I ought to be making my mince pies, not doing this! 125 00:07:11,400 --> 00:07:15,400 THEY CHUCKLE 126 00:07:21,680 --> 00:07:24,520 Margaret's mammoth is still undergoing conservation 127 00:07:24,520 --> 00:07:28,520 over 20 years after its discovery. 128 00:07:38,400 --> 00:07:40,720 This remarkable beast in front of me 129 00:07:40,720 --> 00:07:44,680 is the head and tusks of the West Runton Mammoth. 130 00:07:44,680 --> 00:07:47,000 Look at its enormous tusk, it's beautiful. 131 00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:50,360 It's in absolutely exquisite condition and just this 132 00:07:50,360 --> 00:07:54,000 portion of that mammoth skeleton can tell us so much. 133 00:07:54,000 --> 00:07:57,720 From the size of its tusks we can guess it's probably a male. 134 00:07:57,720 --> 00:07:59,960 It could have been over four metres tall, 135 00:07:59,960 --> 00:08:01,560 probably weighed ten tonnes or more. 136 00:08:01,560 --> 00:08:04,560 That's twice the size of a male African elephant. 137 00:08:04,560 --> 00:08:08,440 Looking at its teeth, I can tell that he was probably in his 40s 138 00:08:08,440 --> 00:08:09,800 when he died. 139 00:08:09,800 --> 00:08:13,800 Now, that's an animal that should have been in his prime. 140 00:08:15,840 --> 00:08:19,160 It was a steppe mammoth, the ancestor of the woolly mammoth, 141 00:08:19,160 --> 00:08:23,160 which also frequented the British Isles. 142 00:08:26,640 --> 00:08:30,640 Mammoths like these certainly didn't evolve in Britain. 143 00:08:31,720 --> 00:08:33,640 Originating from Siberia, 144 00:08:33,640 --> 00:08:37,640 they must have migrated here from the continent via the land bridge. 145 00:08:40,480 --> 00:08:44,160 In total, over 200 bone fragments from the West Runton Mammoth 146 00:08:44,160 --> 00:08:48,160 have been carefully catalogued and preserved. 147 00:08:48,720 --> 00:08:51,440 There are so many bones and they're all beautiful 148 00:08:51,440 --> 00:08:54,080 and they're all enormous. Look at this one here. 149 00:08:54,080 --> 00:08:57,840 The femur, the thigh bone. This is about 1.5 metres in length. 150 00:08:57,840 --> 00:08:59,880 An animal that is over four metres tall 151 00:08:59,880 --> 00:09:01,680 is going to have pretty long legs. 152 00:09:01,680 --> 00:09:04,480 Now, what's really interesting about this particular bone 153 00:09:04,480 --> 00:09:07,800 is that it tells us that this poor thing had a gammy knee. 154 00:09:07,800 --> 00:09:10,000 This side here is lovely and smooth. 155 00:09:10,000 --> 00:09:13,080 That's what you'd expect where it would join up with the shin 156 00:09:13,080 --> 00:09:14,680 to create the knee socket. 157 00:09:14,680 --> 00:09:18,200 This side should be smooth as well but it's not. 158 00:09:18,200 --> 00:09:20,080 Maybe a fall, maybe a fight, 159 00:09:20,080 --> 00:09:24,040 but something quite dramatic caused this knee to pop out 160 00:09:24,040 --> 00:09:28,040 and jump so that it only articulated on half of the shin bone. 161 00:09:29,240 --> 00:09:33,240 So one whole side of the thigh bone wasn't in its socket. 162 00:09:34,720 --> 00:09:38,000 It still survived despite this injury, 163 00:09:38,000 --> 00:09:41,160 in a landscape that had lions, sabre-tooth cats 164 00:09:41,160 --> 00:09:43,120 and all kinds of predators. 165 00:09:43,120 --> 00:09:47,120 It was still OK but it wasn't really in 166 00:09:48,040 --> 00:09:51,640 tiptop condition and that may have been what did for it in the end. 167 00:09:51,640 --> 00:09:55,120 Now, this is fossilised hyena poo, 168 00:09:55,120 --> 00:09:58,040 and the West Runton Mammoth was surrounded by them. 169 00:09:58,040 --> 00:10:00,480 We know that either in life, 170 00:10:00,480 --> 00:10:04,480 or hopefully for this creature maybe after it had already passed on, 171 00:10:04,480 --> 00:10:07,560 hyenas got their fill and they ate an awful lot of it 172 00:10:07,560 --> 00:10:10,320 and they left an awful lot of that meal behind 173 00:10:10,320 --> 00:10:14,320 in the form of fossilised poo. 174 00:10:19,920 --> 00:10:22,880 Britain was clearly a home to mega-beasts who had migrated 175 00:10:22,880 --> 00:10:26,880 here from the continent. 176 00:10:26,880 --> 00:10:30,560 Alongside animals like the mammoths, humans arrived to live 177 00:10:30,560 --> 00:10:34,160 in a Britain which could be surprisingly comfortable. 178 00:10:34,160 --> 00:10:37,480 In my day job I spend a lot of time imagining what the past 179 00:10:37,480 --> 00:10:38,960 would look like. 180 00:10:38,960 --> 00:10:42,960 Here on the Norfolk Broads, the landscape helps you out quite a bit. 181 00:10:43,720 --> 00:10:47,000 Just looking about right now, I can really get a sense 182 00:10:47,000 --> 00:10:49,480 of what the world would have looked like around here 183 00:10:49,480 --> 00:10:53,480 a million years ago. 184 00:10:56,720 --> 00:10:59,360 During warm periods, this part of Norfolk 185 00:10:59,360 --> 00:11:03,360 would've been a water world much like this. 186 00:11:06,800 --> 00:11:09,200 If you were canoeing here a million years or so ago, 187 00:11:09,200 --> 00:11:11,080 you wouldn't be on the Norfolk Broads, 188 00:11:11,080 --> 00:11:13,440 you would be on the ancestral River Thames, 189 00:11:13,440 --> 00:11:17,440 which flowed all the way from Wales, right the way up to the sea. 190 00:11:18,880 --> 00:11:22,480 The ancestral Thames was the original route of the great river 191 00:11:22,480 --> 00:11:26,480 that now runs through London, hundreds of kilometres to the south. 192 00:11:27,520 --> 00:11:31,200 This river would have run through heathland, heather, 193 00:11:31,200 --> 00:11:34,440 there might have been some pine and spruce forests in the distance. 194 00:11:34,440 --> 00:11:38,440 Sturgeon would have been swimming on their way to the sea. 195 00:11:40,800 --> 00:11:43,800 The first humans who inhabited Britain are elusive 196 00:11:43,800 --> 00:11:47,240 but astonishing clues to their presence are found in coastal towns 197 00:11:47,240 --> 00:11:51,240 like Happisburgh. 198 00:11:51,360 --> 00:11:54,120 Happisburgh is one of the most dynamic 199 00:11:54,120 --> 00:11:56,480 sections of the Norfolk coast. 200 00:11:56,480 --> 00:11:58,680 This here used to be the base of the steps 201 00:11:58,680 --> 00:12:01,040 that run up to the top of the cliffs. 202 00:12:01,040 --> 00:12:02,520 Except... 203 00:12:02,520 --> 00:12:05,160 those cliffs are now all the way over there. 204 00:12:05,160 --> 00:12:07,720 They've been retreating over the decades as the sea 205 00:12:07,720 --> 00:12:09,960 has bitten away at them. 206 00:12:09,960 --> 00:12:13,960 That same force of the ocean a few years ago, May 2013, 207 00:12:14,680 --> 00:12:18,400 scoured away a good portion of the beach, the foreshore 208 00:12:18,400 --> 00:12:20,960 and uncovered something quite remarkable 209 00:12:20,960 --> 00:12:24,960 about a metre beneath my feet. 210 00:12:26,560 --> 00:12:29,320 A huge storm had scoured the sand off the beach 211 00:12:29,320 --> 00:12:32,680 revealing the mud layer beneath. 212 00:12:32,680 --> 00:12:36,680 Over 50 mysterious indentations in the mud were discovered. 213 00:12:39,720 --> 00:12:42,800 Human footprints. 214 00:12:42,800 --> 00:12:46,800 Their age is truly awe-inspiring... 215 00:12:47,080 --> 00:12:51,040 ..around 900,000 years old. 216 00:12:51,040 --> 00:12:53,520 With only a few hours to record them 217 00:12:53,520 --> 00:12:55,600 before the next tide wiped them away, 218 00:12:55,600 --> 00:12:59,600 researchers at the site took 3-D photographs. 219 00:13:01,960 --> 00:13:04,360 So those footprints are now totally buried? Mmm. 220 00:13:04,360 --> 00:13:06,240 No-one's able to see them any more. 221 00:13:06,240 --> 00:13:09,120 Well, more than buried, they don't exist any more. 222 00:13:09,120 --> 00:13:11,000 Washed away? They've been washed away. 223 00:13:11,000 --> 00:13:15,000 David Waterhouse of Norfolk Museums has brought a 3-D print of one 224 00:13:15,440 --> 00:13:19,240 of the ancient visitors' footprints to the beach where they were found. 225 00:13:19,240 --> 00:13:20,960 This is the largest one. 226 00:13:20,960 --> 00:13:22,440 This is a size nine. 227 00:13:22,440 --> 00:13:24,800 Probably a male. 228 00:13:24,800 --> 00:13:27,040 These adults were walking due south, 229 00:13:27,040 --> 00:13:31,040 pretty much down the present-day beach but the smaller footprints 230 00:13:31,040 --> 00:13:34,200 were winding all over the place and that just happens today, doesn't it? 231 00:13:34,200 --> 00:13:37,800 Exactly... Parents walk along... Kids running around the outside. 232 00:13:37,800 --> 00:13:40,840 Looking here at the footprints, the heel is back here. 233 00:13:40,840 --> 00:13:43,680 There you can see the imprint of what looks like a big toe 234 00:13:43,680 --> 00:13:46,440 and the other toes just in here. 235 00:13:46,440 --> 00:13:50,320 It's just rather wonderful to think that this actually was a person 236 00:13:50,320 --> 00:13:53,560 who was walking on a river bank, here, 237 00:13:53,560 --> 00:13:56,040 maybe as long ago as one million years ago, 238 00:13:56,040 --> 00:13:57,880 but at least 800,000 years ago. 239 00:13:57,880 --> 00:14:00,480 They're the oldest outside of Africa, aren't they? They are. 240 00:14:00,480 --> 00:14:02,600 The oldest footprints outside of Africa. Yeah. 241 00:14:02,600 --> 00:14:06,160 You've got that massive leap from Africa to Norfolk. 242 00:14:06,160 --> 00:14:09,320 That's why, you know, it's so special. 243 00:14:09,320 --> 00:14:13,320 This amazing snapshot of human life was a one-in-a-million find. 244 00:14:14,760 --> 00:14:18,760 The footprints were probably left by the mysterious Homo antecessor, 245 00:14:18,920 --> 00:14:22,920 one of the earliest known species of human in Europe. 246 00:14:23,040 --> 00:14:26,840 With a taste for simple stone tools and cannibalism, 247 00:14:26,840 --> 00:14:30,360 so far their remains have only been found in Spain. 248 00:14:30,360 --> 00:14:34,080 They would have migrated here across the land bridge. 249 00:14:34,080 --> 00:14:38,000 Norfolk's rich fossil record tells us about a world that stretched 250 00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:41,120 from half a million years ago back to a million years ago or so 251 00:14:41,120 --> 00:14:44,160 where humans, mammoths, sabre-tooth cats, 252 00:14:44,160 --> 00:14:47,400 a whole diversity of creatures could come and go freely 253 00:14:47,400 --> 00:14:49,960 between Britain and Continental Europe. 254 00:14:49,960 --> 00:14:53,120 That connection is underlined again and again and again 255 00:14:53,120 --> 00:14:56,760 but it was about to change. 256 00:14:56,760 --> 00:15:00,680 Humans and animals would come and go as the climate warmed 257 00:15:00,680 --> 00:15:04,640 and cooled but an extreme cold snap would soon trigger 258 00:15:04,640 --> 00:15:08,480 the sequence of events that would end in the megaflood, 259 00:15:08,480 --> 00:15:13,900 Setting Britain on its way to becoming an island. 260 00:15:22,240 --> 00:15:23,560 Half a million years ago, 261 00:15:23,560 --> 00:15:26,840 Britain was connected to the Continent by a huge land bridge 262 00:15:26,840 --> 00:15:30,160 that stretched all the way from Dover into northern France. 263 00:15:30,160 --> 00:15:32,800 A geological catastrophe would change all of that 264 00:15:32,800 --> 00:15:36,280 and leave the white cliffs of Dover plunging into what would 265 00:15:36,280 --> 00:15:39,080 become the English Channel. 266 00:15:39,080 --> 00:15:42,560 I am in Norfolk, looking for evidence of the people who crossed 267 00:15:42,560 --> 00:15:46,560 the land bridge that once connected us to Europe so long ago. 268 00:15:47,200 --> 00:15:50,600 Those haunting million-year-old footprints are not the only 269 00:15:50,600 --> 00:15:54,600 type of evidence for ancient humanity in the British Isles. 270 00:15:54,960 --> 00:15:58,640 Prehistoric Britons also left behind traces of their presence 271 00:15:58,640 --> 00:16:02,640 in a unique type of stone. 272 00:16:06,800 --> 00:16:09,960 The people of Norfolk have always made use of this natural 273 00:16:09,960 --> 00:16:13,960 product of their environment. 274 00:16:15,720 --> 00:16:19,400 And, like any good medieval building on the east coast of England, 275 00:16:19,400 --> 00:16:23,400 this church is covered in the stuff. 276 00:16:27,000 --> 00:16:31,000 St Mary's, Happisburgh, is a great example of medieval architecture. 277 00:16:31,680 --> 00:16:35,680 14th-century church, it's made almost entirely of this stuff - 278 00:16:35,800 --> 00:16:38,240 flint. It was all collected locally 279 00:16:38,240 --> 00:16:40,920 and brought up here by the barrel load. 280 00:16:40,920 --> 00:16:43,520 I mean, just look at that. 281 00:16:43,520 --> 00:16:46,200 Imagine how many flint nodules would have been needed to 282 00:16:46,200 --> 00:16:50,040 build this church. And that's how it came. 283 00:16:50,040 --> 00:16:52,360 Like this, in nodule form. 284 00:16:52,360 --> 00:16:55,960 In certain places, where they wanted to push the boat out a bit, 285 00:16:55,960 --> 00:16:58,120 they would expertly split it in two 286 00:16:58,120 --> 00:17:01,920 and place it, to reveal the beautiful lustre of its interior. 287 00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:05,720 And these are all flush with each other, so it's called flushwork. 288 00:17:05,720 --> 00:17:09,040 This is a great example of medieval craftwork. 289 00:17:09,040 --> 00:17:12,320 But here in Happisburgh, there's even finer traditional flintwork 290 00:17:12,320 --> 00:17:16,320 and it goes back half a million years. 291 00:17:17,560 --> 00:17:20,600 15 years ago, during an especially low tide, 292 00:17:20,600 --> 00:17:24,600 an extraordinary discovery was made here on Happisburgh Beach. 293 00:17:26,160 --> 00:17:29,320 It was just this section in the sand 294 00:17:29,320 --> 00:17:32,200 and I could see this straight line, which is... 295 00:17:32,200 --> 00:17:34,160 It's just relatively unusual. 296 00:17:34,160 --> 00:17:38,160 'Mike Chambers was the man in the right place at the right time.' 297 00:17:39,080 --> 00:17:42,280 Out there, when the tide is out, the furthest you can get, 298 00:17:42,280 --> 00:17:45,560 that's where I found it in the clay, that type of clay. 299 00:17:45,560 --> 00:17:48,360 So, not in the sand. Not in the sand, no. 300 00:17:48,360 --> 00:17:51,920 It was just this little edge. So, it came to Cromer Museum first. 301 00:17:51,920 --> 00:17:55,760 Yeah, and it's people like Mike who know to bring these things in. 302 00:17:55,760 --> 00:17:58,560 And, crucially, he remembered where it was from. 303 00:17:58,560 --> 00:18:02,560 You can't date the actual flint, but you can date the sediment around it. 304 00:18:02,640 --> 00:18:05,280 Shall we get it out? Yeah, I think so. 305 00:18:05,280 --> 00:18:07,000 It's time! Brilliant. 306 00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:09,520 'And here is Mike's discovery - 307 00:18:09,520 --> 00:18:11,120 'at half a million years old, 308 00:18:11,120 --> 00:18:15,080 'the earliest flint handaxe known in North Western Europe.' 309 00:18:15,080 --> 00:18:19,080 Oh, look at that! 310 00:18:19,520 --> 00:18:23,520 That is beautiful. It's so black and glossy. 311 00:18:24,240 --> 00:18:26,360 Do we know how they used these tools? 312 00:18:26,360 --> 00:18:28,200 This was really a butchery tool. 313 00:18:28,200 --> 00:18:31,040 You would use these really thin edges maybe for skinning. 314 00:18:31,040 --> 00:18:34,360 You could turn it round and use the thicker bits there 315 00:18:34,360 --> 00:18:36,640 for maybe jointing. Do we know who made this? 316 00:18:36,640 --> 00:18:39,120 From the shape of it, the design of it, essentially, 317 00:18:39,120 --> 00:18:43,120 this is a species called Homo heidelbergensis. 318 00:18:43,640 --> 00:18:47,640 Homo heidelbergensis lived between 600 and 300,000 years ago, 319 00:18:49,120 --> 00:18:53,120 migrating in and out of Britain as the weather warmed and cooled. 320 00:18:55,040 --> 00:18:57,920 With more sophisticated tools than antecessor, 321 00:18:57,920 --> 00:18:59,880 heidelbergensis might even have been 322 00:18:59,880 --> 00:19:03,440 among the first humans to bury their dead. 323 00:19:03,440 --> 00:19:06,760 This handaxe was found out there, in that direction, 324 00:19:06,760 --> 00:19:09,920 and half a million years ago, out there wasn't sea. No. 325 00:19:09,920 --> 00:19:12,840 No, I mean, this was a riverbed we're talking about, isn't it? 326 00:19:12,840 --> 00:19:15,320 We are in a riverbed and if you kept on going, 327 00:19:15,320 --> 00:19:18,520 the heidelbergensis could walk all the way to join his mates, 328 00:19:18,520 --> 00:19:21,040 because there was a land bridge between here and Europe 329 00:19:21,040 --> 00:19:22,600 and this species was everywhere. 330 00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:26,200 But here in Happisburgh, we have never found any bones, 331 00:19:26,200 --> 00:19:30,160 any fossils of those people. Yet. Yet! 332 00:19:30,160 --> 00:19:33,760 The humans who created priceless objects like this would not 333 00:19:33,760 --> 00:19:37,200 stick around for ever. 334 00:19:37,200 --> 00:19:40,120 The glacier that would eventually cause the mega flood 335 00:19:40,120 --> 00:19:43,000 was moving across Europe, forcing them to migrate 336 00:19:43,000 --> 00:19:46,320 out of Britain for sunnier climes. 337 00:19:46,320 --> 00:19:50,320 A new ice age was on its way. 338 00:19:51,080 --> 00:19:54,840 Ice ages are periods of intense global cooling where enormous 339 00:19:54,840 --> 00:19:58,840 ice sheets descend upon the land, some kilometres thick. 340 00:20:02,000 --> 00:20:05,960 Now, 450,000 years ago, there was a really big one 341 00:20:05,960 --> 00:20:09,960 and the evidence for that is right here on this beach. 342 00:20:17,000 --> 00:20:20,240 When we come down on the coast section here, we find that 343 00:20:20,240 --> 00:20:23,480 the cliffs are almost entirely made of glacial sediment. 344 00:20:23,480 --> 00:20:27,480 Geologist Martin Warren has been studying these beaches for decades. 345 00:20:28,480 --> 00:20:29,680 To his trained eye, 346 00:20:29,680 --> 00:20:32,640 the evidence for the Anglian glaciation that once covered 347 00:20:32,640 --> 00:20:36,640 Britain in huge slabs of ice is written in the cliffs on this beach. 348 00:20:38,560 --> 00:20:42,560 Here at East Runton we have got this amazing chalk that has been thrusted 349 00:20:43,760 --> 00:20:45,840 and shoved, to make a hill. 350 00:20:45,840 --> 00:20:48,560 So, there is chalk right up at the top of the cliff there that 351 00:20:48,560 --> 00:20:50,360 really should be down at beach level 352 00:20:50,360 --> 00:20:53,400 and it has been pushed around by the power of that ice sheet. 353 00:20:53,400 --> 00:20:57,400 Wow, and you've got a 1km thick ice sheet that is advancing 354 00:20:57,840 --> 00:21:01,120 and sometimes retreating and the power of that sheet 355 00:21:01,120 --> 00:21:03,680 is moving these incredibly large blocks. 356 00:21:03,680 --> 00:21:06,600 I mean, I can see what looks like some flint up there, 357 00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:08,080 is that correct? 358 00:21:08,080 --> 00:21:11,480 Yes, there is a great sheet of chalk, with lines of flint 359 00:21:11,480 --> 00:21:13,960 running right the way through it. 360 00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:16,440 With a trained eye like Martin at your side, 361 00:21:16,440 --> 00:21:20,440 it is hard not to indulge in a spot of geological foraging. 362 00:21:21,880 --> 00:21:25,880 This looks unusual. Yes, I think this is a piece of dolerite. 363 00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:28,400 The most likely source of that, I would think, 364 00:21:28,400 --> 00:21:30,520 is off the coast of Northumbria. 365 00:21:30,520 --> 00:21:33,440 As the ice came streaming down the east coast, 366 00:21:33,440 --> 00:21:35,840 it would have been bringing these down. 367 00:21:35,840 --> 00:21:39,200 What is that, 100km, 200km, more? 368 00:21:39,200 --> 00:21:42,680 240, I think, the last time... if I remember rightly. 369 00:21:42,680 --> 00:21:46,440 How cool. Yeah. Was it rolled? Was it swept along? 370 00:21:46,440 --> 00:21:48,600 The ice actually incorporates material 371 00:21:48,600 --> 00:21:50,440 into the base of the ice sheet. 372 00:21:50,440 --> 00:21:54,200 When eventually the ice melts, it dumps it here in Norfolk. 373 00:21:54,200 --> 00:21:55,440 That's it, isn't it? 374 00:21:55,440 --> 00:21:58,040 We often think of things like glaciers as being a bit static. 375 00:21:58,040 --> 00:21:59,680 You worry about them melting, 376 00:21:59,680 --> 00:22:02,520 but the whole time they are moving, moving, moving. 377 00:22:02,520 --> 00:22:05,920 They are, they are very dynamic and very dirty. 378 00:22:05,920 --> 00:22:08,640 Erratics, like the dolerite, are rocks carried 379 00:22:08,640 --> 00:22:12,360 to the beach from far away by an advancing glacier. 380 00:22:12,360 --> 00:22:15,560 They are a telltale clue that the ice sheet extended 381 00:22:15,560 --> 00:22:18,040 far beyond this area. 382 00:22:18,040 --> 00:22:22,040 Is that something here? Oh, wow, look at that. 383 00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:25,480 That is an erratic. A bit of sandstone. 384 00:22:25,480 --> 00:22:28,320 It has got a flat face on it that has been smoothed off 385 00:22:28,320 --> 00:22:31,960 by the ice sheet and it has even got grooves and scratches 386 00:22:31,960 --> 00:22:35,960 as it has been scraping along the bottom of the ice sheet. 387 00:22:37,120 --> 00:22:41,120 That is an absolutely perfect example of an erratic. 388 00:22:42,560 --> 00:22:46,560 Yeah, moved by an ice sheet 450,000 years ago. Ha! 389 00:22:48,280 --> 00:22:51,640 Britain was being crushed under the advance of the most severe 390 00:22:51,640 --> 00:22:55,560 glaciation of the past million years. 391 00:22:55,560 --> 00:22:59,560 This deep cold snap forced humans and animals to flee this land 392 00:22:59,760 --> 00:23:02,880 and it would set in train a sequence of events that would 393 00:23:02,880 --> 00:23:06,880 lead to the catastrophic mega flood that made Britain. 394 00:23:08,400 --> 00:23:11,680 So, 450,000 years ago, Norfolk would have looked 395 00:23:11,680 --> 00:23:13,960 considerably different than today. 396 00:23:13,960 --> 00:23:16,680 On this spot, there would have been a huge ice sheet 397 00:23:16,680 --> 00:23:20,120 some kilometres above me. 398 00:23:20,120 --> 00:23:22,680 This glacier would not only have covered Britain 399 00:23:22,680 --> 00:23:24,760 all the way down to London. 400 00:23:24,760 --> 00:23:28,760 Over thousands of years, a massive lake also began to develop. 401 00:23:31,080 --> 00:23:34,600 That glacier was dumping all of its meltwater into an enormous 402 00:23:34,600 --> 00:23:37,320 proglacial lake, and I really mean enormous - 403 00:23:37,320 --> 00:23:41,320 we are talking twice the size of Wales. 404 00:23:44,560 --> 00:23:47,520 It would have stretched all the way from here to the Netherlands 405 00:23:47,520 --> 00:23:50,320 and down the coast some 200km, where it was dammed 406 00:23:50,320 --> 00:23:54,320 by the enormous chalk ridge. 407 00:23:56,680 --> 00:24:00,040 That ridge was down south, where the chalk land bridge 408 00:24:00,040 --> 00:24:03,400 once connected us to Europe. 409 00:24:03,400 --> 00:24:07,200 As I travel south, it's like I am being pushed by that glacier 410 00:24:07,200 --> 00:24:10,600 right the way from Norfolk all the way to London and beyond, 411 00:24:10,600 --> 00:24:13,360 because of course, that glacier was the beginning 412 00:24:13,360 --> 00:24:14,840 of something much bigger. 413 00:24:14,840 --> 00:24:17,440 Something was brewing and it was about to break 414 00:24:17,440 --> 00:24:21,440 and that happened right down south, in Kent. 415 00:24:23,640 --> 00:24:27,640 The remains of that ancient chalk ridge are here on the North Downs, 416 00:24:28,160 --> 00:24:32,160 just outside Maidstone in Kent. 417 00:24:36,720 --> 00:24:39,640 I'm actually currently walking along a ridge, 418 00:24:39,640 --> 00:24:43,640 and there is a thin layer of soil, but beneath that, it is all chalk. 419 00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:47,840 Now, this ridge that I'm standing on stretches another 40 miles or so 420 00:24:47,840 --> 00:24:51,840 to Dover and, of course, back then, it stretched even further 421 00:24:52,000 --> 00:24:55,120 and continued all the way into France. 422 00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:59,120 The massive glacial lake built up between Britain and northern Europe. 423 00:24:59,680 --> 00:25:02,280 It was the chalk land bridge that connected us 424 00:25:02,280 --> 00:25:06,280 to Europe that held those waters back. 425 00:25:07,040 --> 00:25:10,000 And that ridge was effectively acting as a dam. 426 00:25:10,000 --> 00:25:14,000 It was holding back the waters of that massive glacial lake. 427 00:25:16,800 --> 00:25:20,240 Flashes of white in the landscape reveal the deep chalk beds 428 00:25:20,240 --> 00:25:24,240 under my feet that make up the ridge. 429 00:25:25,920 --> 00:25:29,000 This is a unique habitat. 430 00:25:29,000 --> 00:25:32,160 Suddenly, I catch sight of a creature that only 431 00:25:32,160 --> 00:25:35,360 makes its home on this chalky downland. 432 00:25:35,360 --> 00:25:37,520 One of the things I really wanted to see 433 00:25:37,520 --> 00:25:41,520 when I came up here on the chalk ridge was a chalkhill blue. 434 00:25:41,840 --> 00:25:45,720 He is hunkering down, to avoid this rather strong breeze. 435 00:25:45,720 --> 00:25:49,040 And you get these blue butterflies on these chalk ridges 436 00:25:49,040 --> 00:25:52,160 because their larvae feed on a type of plant that only really 437 00:25:52,160 --> 00:25:55,120 grows in these chalky ridges, the horseshoe vetch. 438 00:25:55,120 --> 00:25:59,120 He is just exquisite. 439 00:26:00,080 --> 00:26:02,680 Today, the ridge is not just a beauty spot 440 00:26:02,680 --> 00:26:05,560 in a long-forgotten link to the Continent, 441 00:26:05,560 --> 00:26:09,040 there is another startling piece of evidence that this is the same 442 00:26:09,040 --> 00:26:12,640 geological feature that appears in northern France. 443 00:26:12,640 --> 00:26:16,640 And it is evidence that you can taste. 444 00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:20,800 This corner of south-east England is a great place to 445 00:26:20,800 --> 00:26:23,280 exploit our deep connection with the Continent. 446 00:26:23,280 --> 00:26:27,280 It is all thanks to the stuff we are driving over - the chalk bedrock. 447 00:26:30,840 --> 00:26:34,720 Here in Kent, a British wine grower is taking advantage of this 448 00:26:34,720 --> 00:26:38,720 wonderful chalk ridge to grow grapes, to be made into a very 449 00:26:38,920 --> 00:26:42,920 British version of an iconic French product - Champagne. 450 00:26:46,240 --> 00:26:49,920 Chapel Down vineyard are cultivating grapes destined for 451 00:26:49,920 --> 00:26:53,920 their award-winning wines, across 94 acres of chalky English fields. 452 00:26:57,520 --> 00:27:01,280 The main feature here on the North Downs is this chalky soil. 453 00:27:01,280 --> 00:27:05,040 It promotes a much warmer soil earlier in the spring, 454 00:27:05,040 --> 00:27:08,160 which means these vines can come out of dormancy much earlier 455 00:27:08,160 --> 00:27:10,520 than some vines which might be planted on 456 00:27:10,520 --> 00:27:12,960 the colder, clayer soils of The Weald. 457 00:27:12,960 --> 00:27:15,200 But the added advantage of chalk is that it acts 458 00:27:15,200 --> 00:27:17,560 a bit like a sponge, so it will absorb water 459 00:27:17,560 --> 00:27:21,000 and that then releases the moisture back to the roots gradually. 460 00:27:21,000 --> 00:27:24,160 So, am I looking at, basically, the same sort of grapes you use 461 00:27:24,160 --> 00:27:27,640 as you would see going into a bottle of classic Champagne? Yes. 462 00:27:27,640 --> 00:27:30,200 I mean, here we are growing Pinot noir grapes. 463 00:27:30,200 --> 00:27:32,080 Pinot noir is one of the main varieties 464 00:27:32,080 --> 00:27:33,560 which they grow in Champagne. 465 00:27:33,560 --> 00:27:35,560 These aren't into the ripening phase yet, 466 00:27:35,560 --> 00:27:39,560 but they are developing very quickly. 467 00:27:41,760 --> 00:27:45,760 EU regulations prohibit Chapel Down from calling their sparkling wine 468 00:27:45,920 --> 00:27:48,400 Champagne, but that hasn't stopped them 469 00:27:48,400 --> 00:27:52,400 from beating the French producers in several competitions. 470 00:27:55,240 --> 00:27:58,000 Are people jealous? Well, I think they are. 471 00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:00,760 They wouldn't say as much, but we have had the visitors at the 472 00:28:00,760 --> 00:28:03,920 vineyard and they have been pretty impressed with what they have seen. 473 00:28:03,920 --> 00:28:06,440 I'm imagining, you know, Champagne vineyard owners 474 00:28:06,440 --> 00:28:09,600 with their binoculars on the ridge, eyeing up the land. 475 00:28:09,600 --> 00:28:11,120 Who knows? You joke, 476 00:28:11,120 --> 00:28:13,720 I have heard rumours of the champenoise coming over, 477 00:28:13,720 --> 00:28:16,640 looking at our land and thinking it might be the next best thing. 478 00:28:16,640 --> 00:28:18,880 Really? But we'll see. Next best thing? 479 00:28:18,880 --> 00:28:20,360 Well, to what they think. 480 00:28:20,360 --> 00:28:24,360 You're like, "We know it's the best!" Absolutely. 481 00:28:25,720 --> 00:28:29,720 450,000 years ago, this chalk ridge that held back the waters 482 00:28:30,440 --> 00:28:34,440 of the glacial lake was on the brink of destruction. 483 00:28:34,600 --> 00:28:37,960 It was about to give way in the most catastrophic flood 484 00:28:37,960 --> 00:28:42,700 Europe had ever seen. 485 00:28:48,440 --> 00:28:52,440 I'm investigating a mega flood that happened half a million years ago. 486 00:28:53,400 --> 00:28:57,200 A catastrophe that helped separate Britain from the continent 487 00:28:57,200 --> 00:29:01,200 and turn us into an island. 488 00:29:02,040 --> 00:29:05,080 I'm now at the south-east of Britain in Dover 489 00:29:05,080 --> 00:29:08,480 where I'm seeing the cliffs as they are meant to be seen - 490 00:29:08,480 --> 00:29:11,080 from the sea. 491 00:29:11,080 --> 00:29:14,120 The White Cliffs of Dover, they are iconic and rightly so. 492 00:29:14,120 --> 00:29:16,240 They are gorgeous, especially on a day like today 493 00:29:16,240 --> 00:29:19,520 with that pure calcite glinting in the sunlight. 494 00:29:19,520 --> 00:29:23,280 Bright white chalk in places 100 metres high, these cliffs. 495 00:29:23,280 --> 00:29:25,800 But of course, that chalk extends further down, deeper 496 00:29:25,800 --> 00:29:29,480 and from here in Dover, it extends across south-east England, 497 00:29:29,480 --> 00:29:32,080 all the way into Norfolk. 498 00:29:32,080 --> 00:29:36,080 But of course, it's their emotional link to the British Isles 499 00:29:36,080 --> 00:29:38,240 that we really recognise them for. 500 00:29:38,240 --> 00:29:40,400 The last thing that many a sailor is seeing 501 00:29:40,400 --> 00:29:42,320 when leaving home for distant lands. 502 00:29:42,320 --> 00:29:46,240 The first things that many a war veteran has seen when coming home. 503 00:29:46,240 --> 00:29:50,240 They are the quintessential image, if you like, of our island nation. 504 00:29:50,280 --> 00:29:54,280 In many ways, in many of our hearts, they define Britain. 505 00:29:57,320 --> 00:30:01,320 At their highest point, the cliffs stand proud of the sea at 110 metres. 506 00:30:02,080 --> 00:30:03,280 Taller than Big Ben 507 00:30:03,280 --> 00:30:07,280 and the same height as 25 London buses stacked on top of each other. 508 00:30:11,400 --> 00:30:14,200 You get used to thinking of these cliffs as being here forever 509 00:30:14,200 --> 00:30:16,760 but of course, they are dynamic in their own way. 510 00:30:16,760 --> 00:30:19,800 The sea is eating away at them, day by day 511 00:30:19,800 --> 00:30:23,280 and they are actually eroding at a rate of about a centimetre a year. 512 00:30:23,280 --> 00:30:26,160 Sometimes, that erosion happens faster and huge chunks fall off 513 00:30:26,160 --> 00:30:30,160 and you can see on the cliffside, where it's slumped. 514 00:30:39,960 --> 00:30:42,720 The Straits of Dover have been Britain's first line of defence 515 00:30:42,720 --> 00:30:45,760 against invasion for thousands of years. 516 00:30:45,760 --> 00:30:48,640 But the cliffs also did their duty during World War II, 517 00:30:48,640 --> 00:30:52,640 to protect us from the Nazi threat. 518 00:30:54,560 --> 00:30:56,640 A string of heavy guns were installed 519 00:30:56,640 --> 00:30:59,360 with their sight trained on the Channel. 520 00:30:59,360 --> 00:31:02,440 The tunnels that provided protection and living space for the soldiers 521 00:31:02,440 --> 00:31:06,440 that manned those guns are known as the Fan Bay Deep Shelter. 522 00:31:09,440 --> 00:31:12,760 Newly opened, the tunnels give me the opportunity to examine 523 00:31:12,760 --> 00:31:16,760 this ancient chalk, laid down around 90 million years ago. 524 00:31:17,840 --> 00:31:20,720 Well, here is the chalk, that's for sure. 525 00:31:20,720 --> 00:31:23,640 It is the same stuff the Channel Tunnel's going through and taking us 526 00:31:23,640 --> 00:31:26,440 to Europe today. It is a great tunnelling material. 527 00:31:26,440 --> 00:31:28,320 And look down here. 528 00:31:28,320 --> 00:31:31,560 Really, really striking, solid layer. 529 00:31:31,560 --> 00:31:35,400 The flint is running all the way along... 530 00:31:35,400 --> 00:31:37,120 ..deeper and deeper in. 531 00:31:37,120 --> 00:31:39,320 You can see the signs of the handiwork of the people 532 00:31:39,320 --> 00:31:40,960 who were actually living down here. 533 00:31:40,960 --> 00:31:43,200 Look, this is a bit of graffiti. 534 00:31:43,200 --> 00:31:47,200 1940. 535 00:31:47,600 --> 00:31:51,600 Amazing to think that all this stuff is actually the remnants of 536 00:31:52,040 --> 00:31:56,040 billions of tiny, tiny marine algae that sunk like rain or snow 537 00:31:58,280 --> 00:31:59,960 to the bottom of the sea floor. 538 00:31:59,960 --> 00:32:03,080 And amongst those tiny organisms, there was also 539 00:32:03,080 --> 00:32:05,360 some bigger things. I mean, look at this. 540 00:32:05,360 --> 00:32:09,360 Maybe some kind of mollusc, definitely a fossil. 541 00:32:10,680 --> 00:32:14,680 So, it would have taken maybe a million years 542 00:32:14,720 --> 00:32:17,880 just for 20-30 metres of this stuff to be deposited 543 00:32:17,880 --> 00:32:21,600 and these cliffs are 300 metres high in places. 544 00:32:21,600 --> 00:32:25,600 That is ten million years of accumulated animal life 545 00:32:27,120 --> 00:32:29,800 built up there. 546 00:32:29,800 --> 00:32:33,800 It is quite wonderful. 547 00:32:34,720 --> 00:32:38,720 450,000 years ago, this massive layer of chalk would have 548 00:32:39,080 --> 00:32:43,080 extended across the English Channel into France. 549 00:32:46,120 --> 00:32:49,040 Dr Jenny Collier of Imperial College London 550 00:32:49,040 --> 00:32:53,040 has long been fascinated by the disappearance of the land bridge. 551 00:32:53,560 --> 00:32:56,440 It is actually really easy to understand that it actually 552 00:32:56,440 --> 00:32:58,680 is the same rock unit going all the way across. 553 00:32:58,680 --> 00:33:02,200 You can see the white cliffs over there in France and they continue 554 00:33:02,200 --> 00:33:06,000 right across here to our Dover cliffs. 555 00:33:06,000 --> 00:33:08,600 When the land bridge existed all those years ago, 556 00:33:08,600 --> 00:33:11,960 this view would have been very different. 557 00:33:11,960 --> 00:33:14,240 This would actually all be dry land, out front of us, 558 00:33:14,240 --> 00:33:15,480 where we've got the sea here. 559 00:33:15,480 --> 00:33:17,400 As the chalk dipped down to lower levels, 560 00:33:17,400 --> 00:33:20,120 it would have just continued down into a dry valley, 561 00:33:20,120 --> 00:33:24,120 maybe with a few rivers. Yeah. 562 00:33:27,520 --> 00:33:30,880 Jenny and her team discovered clues to what removed the chalky 563 00:33:30,880 --> 00:33:34,760 land bridge when they were doing a sonar survey of the seabed 564 00:33:34,760 --> 00:33:37,600 under the English Channel. 565 00:33:37,600 --> 00:33:40,160 It had long been postulated that something dramatic 566 00:33:40,160 --> 00:33:43,040 had happened to remove this great big rock ridge 567 00:33:43,040 --> 00:33:47,040 but no-one really had the evidence for it and we actually found it 568 00:33:47,240 --> 00:33:51,240 genuinely by mistake, by doing some surveys down to the west 569 00:33:51,560 --> 00:33:53,600 towards the Isle of Wight. 570 00:33:53,600 --> 00:33:56,840 And we just found this huge, great big valley, 571 00:33:56,840 --> 00:34:00,840 carved into the floor of the English Channel about ten miles wide. 572 00:34:01,400 --> 00:34:04,000 A valley as deep as this could only have been created 573 00:34:04,000 --> 00:34:08,000 by an extremely powerful flood event. 574 00:34:08,280 --> 00:34:12,280 For Jenny and the team, all evidence pointed to the huge glacial lake 575 00:34:12,560 --> 00:34:16,560 full to bursting to the north of the chalk land bridge. 576 00:34:16,800 --> 00:34:20,000 Because we knew we had the lake, this was obviously a perfect source 577 00:34:20,000 --> 00:34:23,200 of the volume of water we needed and then we've also got the rock ridge 578 00:34:23,200 --> 00:34:26,960 giving us all the lumps of material to make the gouges. 579 00:34:26,960 --> 00:34:30,160 And to gouge rock, needs a high amount of force 580 00:34:30,160 --> 00:34:33,000 so we'd have had lots of ice on the lake as well, 581 00:34:33,000 --> 00:34:35,640 those would have been thundering down as well. 582 00:34:35,640 --> 00:34:39,640 The chalk ridge gave way in a cataclysmic one-off event. 583 00:34:39,880 --> 00:34:42,960 Across a period thought to be as short as three weeks, 584 00:34:42,960 --> 00:34:46,960 over a million cubic metres of water per second broke through, 585 00:34:47,120 --> 00:34:51,120 destroying the ridge and crashing down onto the valley below. 586 00:34:52,880 --> 00:34:55,640 I mean, today, the flow rate over Niagara Falls, for example, 587 00:34:55,640 --> 00:34:59,640 it would be 300 times that. 588 00:35:01,320 --> 00:35:03,720 That must have shook. 589 00:35:03,720 --> 00:35:06,560 Yeah, it would have been deafening, a very dangerous place to be 590 00:35:06,560 --> 00:35:10,560 and just a phenomenal, catastrophic event. 591 00:35:10,760 --> 00:35:14,240 Would you have needed something else to fragment the ridge, 592 00:35:14,240 --> 00:35:15,560 to sort of kick it off? 593 00:35:15,560 --> 00:35:17,880 We know there are small earthquakes in this area 594 00:35:17,880 --> 00:35:21,880 and perhaps there was a small earth tremor that just set it off. 595 00:35:23,960 --> 00:35:27,720 A seismic event, this time a volcanic eruption, was the trigger 596 00:35:27,720 --> 00:35:31,720 for a similar but much smaller glacial flood in Iceland in 2010. 597 00:35:33,320 --> 00:35:36,680 This footage, shot from a news helicopter at the time, 598 00:35:36,680 --> 00:35:40,680 is both fascinating and slightly horrifying. 599 00:35:40,880 --> 00:35:43,880 It gives you an idea of just how ferocious 600 00:35:43,880 --> 00:35:47,880 and apocalyptic these events can be. 601 00:36:12,200 --> 00:36:15,240 Jenny and her team have only ever visualised the underwater channel 602 00:36:15,240 --> 00:36:16,760 using sonar. 603 00:36:16,760 --> 00:36:20,760 They have never set eyes on it. 604 00:36:23,280 --> 00:36:25,840 So, we have come to Gosport to do something 605 00:36:25,840 --> 00:36:29,840 that has never been done before. 606 00:36:31,360 --> 00:36:33,520 This is going to be an interesting day. 607 00:36:33,520 --> 00:36:37,280 It is pretty exciting. We are going out to roughly halfway 608 00:36:37,280 --> 00:36:40,200 between Britain and France in the middle of the English Channel 609 00:36:40,200 --> 00:36:43,000 and we're going to go deep underwater, 70 metres deep, 610 00:36:43,000 --> 00:36:45,800 to see what is down there. Hopefully, we will find some 611 00:36:45,800 --> 00:36:49,560 evidence of the mega flood that Jenny has seen on her sonar scans. 612 00:36:49,560 --> 00:36:50,880 However, 613 00:36:50,880 --> 00:36:53,520 the wind's picking up... 614 00:36:53,520 --> 00:36:57,240 ..we are in the middle of a shipping channel, we are diving deeper than 615 00:36:57,240 --> 00:37:01,240 most people tend to dive in this area, it is completely unexplored 616 00:37:03,320 --> 00:37:05,360 and we don't really know what is going to happen. 617 00:37:05,360 --> 00:37:07,040 I'd like to say I was confident... 618 00:37:07,040 --> 00:37:10,400 I am confident, no, I am completely confident we are going to do well. 619 00:37:10,400 --> 00:37:14,400 Unfortunately, there is a lot working against us so we shall see. 620 00:37:18,120 --> 00:37:22,120 But I'm not going to put on a wet suit. 621 00:37:23,480 --> 00:37:26,120 Adrian Glover from the Natural History Museum 622 00:37:26,120 --> 00:37:29,360 has brought along a submersible, remote-operated vessel, 623 00:37:29,360 --> 00:37:33,360 nicknamed Rex, to act as our eyes underwater. 624 00:37:33,880 --> 00:37:35,920 So it is a mini sort of remote control submarine 625 00:37:35,920 --> 00:37:38,720 but with a tether, a line that connects it to your computers here? 626 00:37:38,720 --> 00:37:41,600 That's right. We're way too deep for diving, where we're going. 627 00:37:41,600 --> 00:37:45,600 That is what an ROV brings you, the ability to work beyond scuba depths. 628 00:37:46,200 --> 00:37:47,880 We're going to see, hopefully, 629 00:37:47,880 --> 00:37:50,280 evidence of the sides of these channels. 630 00:37:50,280 --> 00:37:54,160 It is the freshness of the landscape which is so remarkable and it is, 631 00:37:54,160 --> 00:37:58,160 I say, the tides have just swept it all out for us. Brilliant. 632 00:38:06,840 --> 00:38:09,240 The trip to the edge of the underwater valley 633 00:38:09,240 --> 00:38:12,680 will take a good three hours. 634 00:38:12,680 --> 00:38:16,440 We've just left port and we are passing the Isle of Wight over there. 635 00:38:16,440 --> 00:38:20,120 We are in the sheltered part of the Channel right now. 636 00:38:20,120 --> 00:38:24,080 I can see the ships passing by out there, lots of container ships. 637 00:38:24,080 --> 00:38:25,840 Yeah. 638 00:38:25,840 --> 00:38:27,720 Onwards. 639 00:38:27,720 --> 00:38:30,880 But enough worrying about getting run over by a tanker, 640 00:38:30,880 --> 00:38:34,240 it is time to do some science. 641 00:38:34,240 --> 00:38:38,080 What we're looking at on this map is actually a map of the sea floor 642 00:38:38,080 --> 00:38:39,680 and it is these reds, these yellows, 643 00:38:39,680 --> 00:38:43,400 these greens...are all telling you the depth and this blue, 644 00:38:43,400 --> 00:38:47,400 that is the deepest bit yet and that is where we are headed for. 645 00:38:48,840 --> 00:38:52,840 We are on our way out to the middle of the English Channel. 646 00:38:54,160 --> 00:38:58,160 Here, we'll send Rex down to the seabed. 647 00:38:59,520 --> 00:39:01,200 Through Rex's onboard camera, 648 00:39:01,200 --> 00:39:06,000 We hope to gaze into the half a million-year-old mega flood valley itself. 649 00:39:18,000 --> 00:39:22,000 'It's been a three-hour journey to the middle of the English Channel. 650 00:39:24,800 --> 00:39:28,360 'Thankfully, the weather has improved.' 651 00:39:28,360 --> 00:39:30,880 We're very close, within 100 metres or so. 652 00:39:30,880 --> 00:39:32,400 Almost there. 653 00:39:32,400 --> 00:39:35,760 'Finally, we're at the spot where we'll send our 654 00:39:35,760 --> 00:39:39,400 'remote-operated submarine, Rex, underwater.' 655 00:39:39,400 --> 00:39:42,760 So we're now, I guess, about here. Cool. 656 00:39:42,760 --> 00:39:45,880 'Along with scientist Jenny Collier, I'm hoping to get a glimpse 657 00:39:45,880 --> 00:39:49,880 'of the ancient channel carved by the mega flood that made Britain.' 658 00:39:52,640 --> 00:39:55,120 So, are we almost here? Well, we are here. We're here? 659 00:39:55,120 --> 00:39:57,720 So, what Graham's doing is just bringing the boat around, 660 00:39:57,720 --> 00:39:59,760 so we're just doing a couple of profiles 661 00:39:59,760 --> 00:40:02,640 just to make sure we're on the cliff edge. 662 00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:04,880 'The skipper positions the boat over the valley 663 00:40:04,880 --> 00:40:08,880 'that Jenny's team found on the seabed. 664 00:40:09,080 --> 00:40:11,760 'We want to drop Rex on to the edge of the valley 665 00:40:11,760 --> 00:40:15,760 'so he can get a good look down the slope of the mega-flood channel.' 666 00:40:16,600 --> 00:40:19,720 Probably we're going to have Rex in the water in about 20 minutes' time, 667 00:40:19,720 --> 00:40:22,240 but we want to make sure we've got no uncertainties, 668 00:40:22,240 --> 00:40:25,360 it's exactly where the cliff edge is going to be. 669 00:40:25,360 --> 00:40:28,120 It looks so featureless out there. 670 00:40:28,120 --> 00:40:30,160 Expanse of water. Nice and calm. 671 00:40:30,160 --> 00:40:34,160 But it does belie what's beneath us. 672 00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:38,520 It's action stations. The team get to work, preparing for the dive. 673 00:40:40,200 --> 00:40:43,360 OK, Adrian, we're all hooked up, ready to power up. 674 00:40:43,360 --> 00:40:47,360 OK, vertical thrust, to check, coming up now. OK. 675 00:40:48,000 --> 00:40:49,600 Main thrust is all good. 676 00:40:49,600 --> 00:40:52,440 And lights check. 677 00:40:52,440 --> 00:40:55,320 Lights OK. Happy. 678 00:40:55,320 --> 00:40:57,200 With a clean bill of health... 679 00:40:57,200 --> 00:40:58,720 Off she goes. 680 00:40:58,720 --> 00:41:02,560 ..Rex is over the side and on his way. 681 00:41:02,560 --> 00:41:06,560 All yours, Adrian. Copy that, John. 682 00:41:12,080 --> 00:41:14,200 OK, we're going down very fast. 683 00:41:14,200 --> 00:41:16,200 We're now at 40 metres. Wow! 684 00:41:16,200 --> 00:41:18,080 OK, still going down. 685 00:41:18,080 --> 00:41:21,520 Well, it looks like a lot of snow, 686 00:41:21,520 --> 00:41:23,720 but clearly it's not, cos it's underwater. 687 00:41:23,720 --> 00:41:26,360 Going through a layer with quite a bit of 688 00:41:26,360 --> 00:41:29,680 resuspended bottom sediment, I suspect. 689 00:41:29,680 --> 00:41:33,680 'Worryingly, the water seems to be full of suspended sediment.' 690 00:41:34,920 --> 00:41:37,080 OK, coming up on 45 metres. 691 00:41:37,080 --> 00:41:38,520 4-5 metres. 692 00:41:38,520 --> 00:41:40,760 'If the seabed is covered in mud and sand, 693 00:41:40,760 --> 00:41:44,320 'we might not be able to see the drop off.' 694 00:41:44,320 --> 00:41:48,320 We're at 56 metres now. I suspect any moment now we should touch down. 695 00:41:50,760 --> 00:41:53,520 There's the sea floor. Oh, yeah. 696 00:41:53,520 --> 00:41:57,520 Great visibility. Yeah. That's cool. 697 00:41:58,080 --> 00:42:01,680 'At 60 metres down, there it is.' 698 00:42:01,680 --> 00:42:04,840 We are basically on a slope on the seabed. 699 00:42:04,840 --> 00:42:08,840 'Rex's position marker shows that he is sliding down into 700 00:42:08,880 --> 00:42:12,880 'the vast flood channel discovered by Jenny and her team. 701 00:42:14,040 --> 00:42:16,160 'Through Rex's camera, 702 00:42:16,160 --> 00:42:20,160 'we are gazing at something never before seen by human eyes.' 703 00:42:20,640 --> 00:42:22,440 It looks like a drop off. 704 00:42:22,440 --> 00:42:23,880 We're seeing off the edge. 705 00:42:23,880 --> 00:42:27,080 These are really prominent sides. It's like a precipice. 706 00:42:27,080 --> 00:42:30,080 What you expected? It's better than I expected. 707 00:42:30,080 --> 00:42:32,120 We're pushing it a bit at the boundaries. 708 00:42:32,120 --> 00:42:34,560 There's a reason why people don't do this very often. 709 00:42:34,560 --> 00:42:36,200 That's right. I'm quite nervous. 710 00:42:36,200 --> 00:42:38,960 My heart rate is going up and I find this quite stressful, 711 00:42:38,960 --> 00:42:40,640 and we're recording the data, 712 00:42:40,640 --> 00:42:43,240 we're getting images of an area of the sea floor that, 713 00:42:43,240 --> 00:42:46,800 basically, nobody ever looks at, because it's so hard to get to. 714 00:42:46,800 --> 00:42:49,680 So, here's the edge of that 60-metre contour. 715 00:42:49,680 --> 00:42:52,840 Down each of these contour lines, getting deeper and deeper and deeper 716 00:42:52,840 --> 00:42:56,280 and, as you can see, Rex is this little red spot here. 717 00:42:56,280 --> 00:43:00,280 He's being bounced down the edge of this slope. 718 00:43:01,040 --> 00:43:04,080 'At first, the drop off looks barren, 719 00:43:04,080 --> 00:43:06,680 'but marine biologist Adrian's eagle eyes 720 00:43:06,680 --> 00:43:09,920 'spot a thriving community of sea life.' 721 00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:11,960 Oh, that is a coral. 722 00:43:11,960 --> 00:43:14,200 So, that is what's called a Dead Man's Finger, 723 00:43:14,200 --> 00:43:16,640 Alcyonium Digitatum. 724 00:43:16,640 --> 00:43:18,240 'As a suspension feeder, 725 00:43:18,240 --> 00:43:22,240 'the Dead Man's Finger can thrive in the gloomy depths.' 726 00:43:22,560 --> 00:43:25,920 You get these kinds of corals in UK waters. 727 00:43:25,920 --> 00:43:28,360 This is an anemone. Oh, look, yeah. It's beautiful. 728 00:43:28,360 --> 00:43:30,560 See that sea anemone on the bottom right? 729 00:43:30,560 --> 00:43:33,440 There's actually really very high biodiversity here. 730 00:43:33,440 --> 00:43:34,880 It's quite interesting. 731 00:43:34,880 --> 00:43:36,880 If you just take a few square metres of this, 732 00:43:36,880 --> 00:43:39,120 you'd find many, many species. 733 00:43:39,120 --> 00:43:42,880 'All these species are adapted to fast-flowing currents. 734 00:43:42,880 --> 00:43:45,080 'They feed on the nutrient-rich water 735 00:43:45,080 --> 00:43:48,280 'flowing at high speed around them. 736 00:43:48,280 --> 00:43:52,000 'And, if it wasn't for these rapid currents, the drop off might 737 00:43:52,000 --> 00:43:55,720 'never have been discovered during the original sonar survey.' 738 00:43:55,720 --> 00:43:57,320 Many people have said to us, 739 00:43:57,320 --> 00:43:59,880 "It's 400,000 years old, why's it still there?" 740 00:43:59,880 --> 00:44:01,920 And actually we think probably in the past, 741 00:44:01,920 --> 00:44:04,960 it was covered with sediments, but today, because of these extreme 742 00:44:04,960 --> 00:44:08,880 tides we have, it's all swept clean and we're seeing that today. 743 00:44:08,880 --> 00:44:12,880 So it's being revealed to us for the first time in 420,000 years? 744 00:44:14,920 --> 00:44:18,920 Absolutely, absolutely. It's remarkable. 745 00:44:19,280 --> 00:44:23,000 It's great to see the mega flood channel with the naked eye. 746 00:44:23,000 --> 00:44:25,400 There's a boulder. Small boulders there in front of us. 747 00:44:25,400 --> 00:44:26,920 There's a bit of chalk. 748 00:44:26,920 --> 00:44:30,920 'And it seems we have also found lots of chalk boulders. 749 00:44:31,160 --> 00:44:33,480 'They could be debris from the chalk ridge 750 00:44:33,480 --> 00:44:36,560 'that once connected us to France.' 751 00:44:36,560 --> 00:44:40,560 A few lumps about this big, based on the size of Rex's pincers, 752 00:44:40,640 --> 00:44:43,280 you do wonder, don't you, how far they've rolled 753 00:44:43,280 --> 00:44:46,240 and when they first landed there? 754 00:44:46,240 --> 00:44:50,240 The mega flood probably only raged for a few weeks but in the aftermath 755 00:44:50,760 --> 00:44:54,760 of the catastrophe, the chalky ridge would have been obliterated. 756 00:44:55,400 --> 00:44:58,080 In the hundreds of thousands of years to come, 757 00:44:58,080 --> 00:45:02,040 Britain would have been accessible during periods of low sea level. 758 00:45:02,040 --> 00:45:05,760 That huge chalk ridge that connected us to Europe 759 00:45:05,760 --> 00:45:09,760 was a thing of the past. 760 00:45:15,320 --> 00:45:19,120 We saw with our own eyes the evidence for this mega flood. 761 00:45:19,120 --> 00:45:23,080 It really brings it home to you that the shape of the seafloor 762 00:45:23,080 --> 00:45:26,760 that lies beneath, which you don't get at all any sense of when 763 00:45:26,760 --> 00:45:30,760 you're out here, particularly on a calm day, definitely a privilege. 764 00:45:33,760 --> 00:45:37,080 My journey has taken me from the first humans in Britain 765 00:45:37,080 --> 00:45:41,080 to the mega flood that destroyed the chalk land bridge. 766 00:45:43,640 --> 00:45:46,400 It's been a story of mammoths. 767 00:45:46,400 --> 00:45:48,480 Priceless objects. 768 00:45:48,480 --> 00:45:52,480 Amazing connections to the continent and fantastic scientific discoveries 769 00:45:53,320 --> 00:45:57,320 that fundamentally changed the way we think about Britain. 770 00:45:57,560 --> 00:46:00,920 But, after all this talk about us as an island nation, 771 00:46:00,920 --> 00:46:04,920 I can't help feeling how connected we are to Europe. 772 00:46:06,080 --> 00:46:09,040 We think of ourselves as an island nation, don't we? 773 00:46:09,040 --> 00:46:12,720 But it took a catastrophic event of unimaginable scale to tear 774 00:46:12,720 --> 00:46:14,440 us asunder from the Continent. 775 00:46:14,440 --> 00:46:18,440 A connection that had lasted millions of years, gone in a moment. 776 00:46:18,600 --> 00:46:20,920 And you haven't got to look very deeply 777 00:46:20,920 --> 00:46:24,360 at the surface of our country to discover our European roots. 778 00:46:24,360 --> 00:46:28,360 So, Europe is closer than you think. 779 00:46:51,720 --> 00:46:59,200 Subtitles by Ericsson 68129

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