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TREVOR MCDONALD: 'I'm undertaking
a journey across India,
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'on one of the most
amazing trains in the world.'
3
00:00:13,436 --> 00:00:15,316
Are these gold plates?
Yes, sir.
4
00:00:15,316 --> 00:00:17,675
$500 Per plate.
MY 900dness!
5
00:00:19,186 --> 00:00:24,005
'The Maharajas' Express celebrates
the height of elegance and style.'
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00:00:24,005 --> 00:00:26,236
I love the ceiling.
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'Recreating the feel
of the royal trains,
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'once used by India's kings.'
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00:00:30,755 --> 00:00:32,795
He had five wives, legally.
10
00:00:32,795 --> 00:00:35,875
I would suspect that that's
probably a little too many.
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THEY LAUGH
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00:00:37,875 --> 00:00:40,775
'Almost half a mile long...'
13
00:00:40,775 --> 00:00:43,396
Can I show you the bathroom?
Wow.
14
00:00:43,396 --> 00:00:45,956
'..It's the length
of 60 London buses.'
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00:00:45,956 --> 00:00:47,566
\ Valet service. I
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00:00:47,566 --> 00:00:51,156
'Though nothing about it
feels like a bus.'
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00:00:51,156 --> 00:00:54,646
In my eight years, we've never
said no to any guest for anything.
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I knew you were going to say that.
Thank you, sir!
19
00:00:57,005 --> 00:00:59,795
'Travelling 1,200 miles from Mumbai
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00:00:59,795 --> 00:01:01,396
'to the nation's capital,
New Delhi...
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00:01:03,826 --> 00:01:05,675
'...my journey will take me
to some of the most
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00:01:05,675 --> 00:01:07,875
'iconic places in India...'
23
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That's amazing!
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'..And to its
most hidden surprises.'
25
00:01:12,036 --> 00:01:15,316
So, the rats drink the milk,
but you drink the milk too?
26
00:01:15,316 --> 00:01:17,516
Yes, we also drink that.
Ah.
27
00:01:17,516 --> 00:01:19,675
'I was last
in the Indian subcontinent
28
00:01:19,675 --> 00:01:22,436
'as a news reporter in the 1980s.'
29
00:01:22,436 --> 00:01:24,286
The potentially explosive
Tamil issue.
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'Today, the traffic
is as bad as it always was.'
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This is just... mad.
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'Poverty is still an issue.'
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Miles of slums.
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'But so much else has changed.'
35
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I wonder what role mobile phones
play in the worship to the Gods?
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'But I also have a more personal
reason for coming back here.'
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I was born in Trinidad.
38
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My mother was pure Afro-Caribbean,
39
00:01:52,956 --> 00:01:55,396
but I'm pretty sure
that my father was Indian.
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Wow, and you can't see the join.
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'It's a chance to discover
ancient traditions.'
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00:02:01,116 --> 00:02:03,025
That's a sign of happiness.
Yeah.
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00:02:03,025 --> 00:02:05,096
'And to see how old and new India
44
00:02:05,096 --> 00:02:07,596
'are co-existing
in the 21st century.'
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00:02:08,646 --> 00:02:10,875
This is the beginning
of a great adventure.
46
00:02:10,875 --> 00:02:12,366
HORN BLOWS
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'Mumbai...'
HORNS BLARE
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'Till the 1990s,
it was known as Bombay.
49
00:02:28,366 --> 00:02:31,755
'Before boarding my train,
I'll be spending a day here.
50
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'There's so much to see.
51
00:02:34,186 --> 00:02:37,366
'With a population
of 21 million people,
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'it's India's largest city.
53
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'And today, it's booming.'
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HORNS BLARE
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COW MOOS
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'Across the whole of India
57
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'the economy is growing so fast,
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'it's now the fifth largest
in the world.'
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What is endlessly fascinating
about this place
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00:03:00,156 --> 00:03:02,675
is that everywhere you look
there's industry.
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00:03:02,675 --> 00:03:04,116
People are doing things.
62
00:03:04,116 --> 00:03:07,286
Everybody is on the move,
there's nobody static.
63
00:03:07,286 --> 00:03:12,076
And that's a good sort of metaphor
for what Mumbai is all about.
64
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It's a city on the move. Exploding.
65
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I mean, it's just... mad!
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HORN BLARES
67
00:03:32,656 --> 00:03:36,086
At the very heart of everything
that happens in this city,
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is the battle, the competition,
between poverty and riches.
69
00:03:45,196 --> 00:03:49,166
'I'm here to see how this battle
is playing out in the new India.
70
00:03:52,246 --> 00:03:55,116
'The skyline has certainly changed.
71
00:03:55,116 --> 00:03:58,726
'Mumbai has the fifth highest number
of skyscrapers in the world.
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00:03:59,726 --> 00:04:02,885
'It's also one of the biggest
building sites in the world,
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00:04:02,885 --> 00:04:06,196
'with nearly 50 towers
under construction.
74
00:04:08,966 --> 00:04:12,765
'This is one of the world's
largest private houses.
75
00:04:12,765 --> 00:04:16,656
'It's owned by an oil tycoon
Mukesh Ambani.
76
00:04:16,656 --> 00:04:20,116
'It's almost as tall
as London's Telecom Tower
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00:04:20,116 --> 00:04:23,166
'and it comes with a ballroom,
three swimming pools,
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'a private theatre
and accommodation for 600 staff.'
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00:04:29,656 --> 00:04:33,885
The thing to think of when you
look at this extraordinary building
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00:04:33,885 --> 00:04:36,685
is that it was designed
for a family of five.
81
00:04:40,576 --> 00:04:45,446
'Today, India has 50 billionaires,
like Ambani.
82
00:04:45,446 --> 00:04:48,406
'But not everyone here is so lucky.
83
00:04:50,885 --> 00:04:56,086
'Just a few miles away,
is the suburb of Dharavi,
84
00:04:56,086 --> 00:04:58,966
'home to nearly a million people.
85
00:04:58,966 --> 00:05:03,296
'This is one of the biggest
shanty towns in all Asia.
86
00:05:03,296 --> 00:05:06,685
'On the surface, this is old India.
87
00:05:08,526 --> 00:05:13,326
'Yet, deep inside,
there's an explosion of activity...'
88
00:05:13,326 --> 00:05:14,935
It's very narrow here.
Yeah.
89
00:05:14,935 --> 00:05:17,476
'..Which is very much
part of the new.'
90
00:05:18,576 --> 00:05:20,805
If you look,
there's always the factory inside.
91
00:05:20,805 --> 00:05:22,446
Oh, right. It is working in there.
92
00:05:22,446 --> 00:05:25,166
He's making T-shirts and he's
cleaning. It's a garment factory.
93
00:05:25,166 --> 00:05:26,406
Right.
94
00:05:26,406 --> 00:05:27,805
'Vinod Shetty runs a charity
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00:05:27,805 --> 00:05:31,326
'supporting hundreds
of recycling businesses in Dharavi.
96
00:05:32,406 --> 00:05:36,606
'They've sprung up to help process
the 10,000 tons of waste
97
00:05:36,606 --> 00:05:38,446
'which Mumbai generates every day.'
98
00:05:40,116 --> 00:05:42,576
This is a plastic recycler
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00:05:42,576 --> 00:05:45,885
who's sorting plastic
inside and glass.
100
00:05:46,966 --> 00:05:49,246
Does he start this
on his own initiative?
101
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Yes. Yes, totally.
102
00:05:50,406 --> 00:05:53,805
These are all entrepreneurs
who have risen from the ranks
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and they've established
their small sheds...
104
00:05:56,606 --> 00:05:58,805
Yeah.
..and they are recycling.
105
00:06:02,046 --> 00:06:03,685
Excuse us.
106
00:06:03,685 --> 00:06:05,836
Some of the workers
also live inside.
107
00:06:05,836 --> 00:06:08,046
Even the smallest of sheds.
108
00:06:09,526 --> 00:06:11,476
My goodness me!
So...
109
00:06:11,476 --> 00:06:13,005
Small entrepreneurs,
110
00:06:13,005 --> 00:06:16,825
he's the owner
and this is all his belongings.
111
00:06:16,825 --> 00:06:18,346
He will be far from his family.
112
00:06:18,346 --> 00:06:20,646
Gosh, this is claustrophobic
in there. Yes.
113
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It must be difficult
to work in there all day.
114
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So, like, you'll see
this gentleman here...
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Jesus.
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00:06:29,606 --> 00:06:31,805
'The work done
by these entrepreneurs
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'helps the city to recycle
twice as much of its waste
118
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'as we do in Britain.'
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Extraordinary.
120
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HAMMERING
121
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There's a lot of work
going up there. Yeah.
122
00:06:49,166 --> 00:06:52,646
Rajindra specialises
in electrical goods.
123
00:06:53,856 --> 00:06:55,856
You been working here
since the age of 16?
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00:06:55,856 --> 00:06:57,326
Yes, yes.
Doing just this?
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00:06:57,326 --> 00:06:58,755
SPEAKS IN OWN DIALECT
126
00:07:01,805 --> 00:07:04,446
He's basically specialised
in separating the electronic waste.
127
00:07:05,755 --> 00:07:07,606
All this can be reused?
Yeah.
128
00:07:07,606 --> 00:07:09,476
No machine can do this.
129
00:07:09,476 --> 00:07:10,755
Very impressive.
130
00:07:10,755 --> 00:07:13,576
'For young men like Rajindra,
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'the work pays 40 pence a day.'
132
00:07:18,446 --> 00:07:20,966
Every young person here
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00:07:20,966 --> 00:07:24,046
wants to be an owner
of a shed like this
134
00:07:24,046 --> 00:07:26,446
or a factory or a small business.
135
00:07:26,446 --> 00:07:29,935
Their entire lives,
revolve around this dream
136
00:07:29,935 --> 00:07:33,046
that they will send
their children to school... Yes.
137
00:07:33,046 --> 00:07:35,086
...they will send money
back home to the family.
138
00:07:35,086 --> 00:07:38,216
It's exactly like how the industrial
revolution happened in the West.
139
00:07:38,216 --> 00:07:43,126
Just... just the size of it all
is quite extraordinary to me.
140
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I think this is one of the most
amazing things I've ever seen.
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POIGNANT MUSIC
142
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For me, they are my heroes.
143
00:07:51,736 --> 00:07:56,296
And I think a society
where people work hard
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is going to be one of
the biggest powers in the world.
145
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It's just that I never thought
I would find it,
146
00:08:03,616 --> 00:08:06,176
and see so many examples of it,
147
00:08:06,176 --> 00:08:08,616
in a place like this.
Yes, sir.
148
00:08:11,866 --> 00:08:14,616
'The community here is inspiring.
149
00:08:16,406 --> 00:08:19,695
'Despite living in one of the most
overcrowded places on earth...'
150
00:08:19,695 --> 00:08:21,376
CHILD: Hello.
Hello, how are you?
151
00:08:21,376 --> 00:08:24,895
'..The urge to succeed
appears to be all that matters.'
152
00:08:24,895 --> 00:08:26,895
Hello, nice to meet you.
153
00:08:26,895 --> 00:08:28,536
Are you from in England?
154
00:08:28,536 --> 00:08:29,765
It's a long, long way away.
155
00:08:29,765 --> 00:08:34,015
'It's a reminder that nothing
defines the new India...'
156
00:08:34,015 --> 00:08:36,046
Nice to see you.
Nice to see you.
157
00:08:36,046 --> 00:08:37,406
'..More than its people.'
Bye!
158
00:08:37,406 --> 00:08:38,736
Bye! Bye! Bye!
159
00:08:38,736 --> 00:08:40,206
Bye! Bye! Bye!
160
00:08:50,536 --> 00:08:54,616
HORNS BLARE
161
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'After a day in Mumbai,
it's time to move on.'
162
00:09:01,945 --> 00:09:06,586
'Mumbai's Central Railway Station
is the busiest in the world.
163
00:09:07,656 --> 00:09:11,226
'Every day, three million commuters
pass through,
164
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'almost as many as those who travel
165
00:09:13,126 --> 00:09:15,945
'on the entire
British railway system.
166
00:09:17,945 --> 00:09:20,976
'The people are the powerhouse
of the new Indian economy.'
167
00:09:20,976 --> 00:09:22,815
WOMAN SPEAKS OVER TANNOY
168
00:09:22,815 --> 00:09:25,046
'But in a far corner of the station,
169
00:09:25,046 --> 00:09:29,256
'there's a little piece
of old India which still survives.'
170
00:09:29,256 --> 00:09:31,126
BRASS BAND PLAYS
171
00:09:39,226 --> 00:09:41,015
'The Maharajas' Express...'
172
00:09:41,015 --> 00:09:42,935
Thank you.
'..Is inspired by Royal trains
173
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'built over a century ago
for India's kings, the Maharajas.
174
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BRASS BAND CONTINUES
175
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'I'm one of 67 travellers
on a tour of old India.
176
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'The entire staff
is lined up to greet us.
177
00:10:00,376 --> 00:10:03,935
'It's my first meeting
with executive chef John Stone.'
178
00:10:03,935 --> 00:10:06,656
Good evening, welcome on board.
Thank you. Sir, please.
179
00:10:06,656 --> 00:10:09,895
Er, this is your valet up here,
he's going to take your bag.
180
00:10:09,895 --> 00:10:11,866
Oh, thank you.
Please.
181
00:10:11,866 --> 00:10:13,616
Welcome on board, sir.
182
00:10:13,616 --> 00:10:15,336
Thank you. Thank you.
183
00:10:15,336 --> 00:10:17,935
I hope you have
a wonderful, wonderful time.
184
00:10:17,935 --> 00:10:20,296
I'm looking forward to it,
enormously. Great! Great.
185
00:10:20,296 --> 00:10:21,656
BAND PLAYS AULD LANG SYNE
186
00:10:21,656 --> 00:10:26,176
'This is worlds apart
from where I was 24 hours ago.'
187
00:10:26,176 --> 00:10:28,456
Thank you very much. Cheers.
188
00:10:30,895 --> 00:10:34,536
I've always had a, sort of, great
affection for little bars like this,
189
00:10:34,536 --> 00:10:37,126
so I'm... I already feel at home.
190
00:10:37,126 --> 00:10:39,256
Thank you, sir.
Thank you.
191
00:10:40,176 --> 00:10:42,296
'I'm now anxious to see my room.'
192
00:10:44,685 --> 00:10:46,895
Gosh, this is glorious.
Yes, sir.
193
00:10:46,895 --> 00:10:48,935
'Almost half a mile long,
194
00:10:48,935 --> 00:10:53,866
'the train has
23 carriages and 40 suites.'
195
00:10:53,866 --> 00:10:55,616
Welcome to your room, sir.
196
00:10:55,616 --> 00:10:57,976
Thank you, very much.
197
00:10:57,976 --> 00:10:59,765
Sir, this is your suite room.
198
00:10:59,765 --> 00:11:02,015
I've heard a lot about these,
199
00:11:02,015 --> 00:11:04,536
but it looks even more splendid
than I... Thank you, sir.
200
00:11:04,536 --> 00:11:07,506
...than I've been told.
There is a mini bar and magazines.
201
00:11:07,506 --> 00:11:09,656
Yes, thank you.
And sofa sitting arrangement.
202
00:11:09,656 --> 00:11:12,256
You welcome to the bedroom.
203
00:11:13,616 --> 00:11:14,736
I say!
204
00:11:14,736 --> 00:11:18,935
There is the telephone
and the TV is there.
205
00:11:18,935 --> 00:11:20,096
Yeah... wow.
206
00:11:20,096 --> 00:11:22,736
It all looks absolutely splendid.
207
00:11:22,736 --> 00:11:25,015
Can I show you the bathroom as well?
Yes, thank you.
208
00:11:25,015 --> 00:11:27,406
This is the cubicle area.
Yes.
209
00:11:27,406 --> 00:11:29,015
And there is the amenities,
210
00:11:29,015 --> 00:11:31,976
hand rolls and the body lotion,
everything is there.
211
00:11:33,176 --> 00:11:35,685
'This suite takes up
half a carriage.'
212
00:11:38,226 --> 00:11:41,046
This is better than anything
I've ever stayed on.
213
00:11:41,046 --> 00:11:42,506
Especially on a train!
214
00:11:42,506 --> 00:11:45,326
Thank you, sir.
And there is a mini bar also.
215
00:11:45,326 --> 00:11:46,685
Two mini bars!
Yes.
216
00:11:46,685 --> 00:11:49,976
I think I might have
a party in here tonight (!)
217
00:11:51,046 --> 00:11:52,096
HORN TOOTS
218
00:11:53,765 --> 00:11:56,424
'Bang on time, we're off.
219
00:12:00,317 --> 00:12:02,217
'From Mumbai, we'll snake
220
00:12:02,217 --> 00:12:04,167
'1,200 miles
across this great nation...
221
00:12:05,676 --> 00:12:08,447
'..ending up in India's capital,
New Delhi.'
222
00:12:09,857 --> 00:12:15,287
OVER TANNOY: Welcome on board to
the delightful Maharajas' Express.
223
00:12:15,287 --> 00:12:18,037
'I'm keen to learn more
about the maharajas
224
00:12:18,037 --> 00:12:20,676
'who once owned royal trains
like this one.
225
00:12:23,477 --> 00:12:26,136
'I'm with train manager Nitin.'
226
00:12:26,136 --> 00:12:29,527
I'll take you another bar.
Yeah. Another bar?
227
00:12:29,527 --> 00:12:31,756
Yes, that's our second bar.
I like the sound of that.
228
00:12:34,676 --> 00:12:35,886
Wow.
229
00:12:35,886 --> 00:12:40,117
'The interior is inspired
by saloons like this.
230
00:12:40,117 --> 00:12:44,037
'Built in the 1920s
for a maharaja in Rajasthan.'
231
00:12:46,287 --> 00:12:49,397
What this whole carriage
reminds me of,
232
00:12:49,397 --> 00:12:53,006
is of an old-fashioned
English clubroom. Yes.
233
00:12:53,006 --> 00:12:56,567
Which is gracious, luxurious...
234
00:12:56,567 --> 00:12:58,167
Yes.
235
00:12:58,167 --> 00:13:01,117
So, it has the origins
of the maharajas... Yes.
236
00:13:01,117 --> 00:13:03,857
...but it also has
that connection with Britain. Yes.
237
00:13:03,857 --> 00:13:05,957
Gosh, these guys lived well.
238
00:13:07,527 --> 00:13:10,317
'So who were the maharajas?
239
00:13:10,317 --> 00:13:14,567
'For centuries,
even under British rule until 1947,
240
00:13:14,567 --> 00:13:17,247
'India was a patchwork
of feudal kingdoms,
241
00:13:17,247 --> 00:13:19,447
'ruled by the maharajas.
242
00:13:19,447 --> 00:13:23,756
'Their lives were the subject
of countless stories and legends.'
243
00:13:23,756 --> 00:13:28,756
This is the picture of
Maharaja Patiala, Bhupinder Singh.
244
00:13:28,756 --> 00:13:30,957
Yes, when did he live?
245
00:13:30,957 --> 00:13:34,317
He lived in 19th century to 1938.
246
00:13:34,317 --> 00:13:36,497
And surrounded by
all these beautiful women?
247
00:13:36,497 --> 00:13:38,676
Yes, and actually he had five wives.
248
00:13:38,676 --> 00:13:40,167
Only... only five?
249
00:13:40,167 --> 00:13:43,367
No, sir, he has five wives, legally,
250
00:13:43,367 --> 00:13:47,527
and 365 wives, total.
One wife per day.
251
00:13:48,447 --> 00:13:51,287
I... I would suspect that
that's probably a little too many.
252
00:13:51,287 --> 00:13:52,497
LAUGHTER
253
00:13:52,497 --> 00:13:56,447
But the maharajas
seem to look very well on it. Yes.
254
00:13:56,447 --> 00:14:01,317
'In fact, it was the maharaja's
father who had 365 wives.
255
00:14:01,317 --> 00:14:03,207
'Not Bhupinder.
256
00:14:03,207 --> 00:14:08,886
'He is said to have had
a more modest harem of 350.'
257
00:14:08,886 --> 00:14:11,567
And he had 83 children.
83?
258
00:14:11,567 --> 00:14:13,597
Yes.
How wealthy was he?
259
00:14:13,597 --> 00:14:15,647
That time, was a millionaire, sir.
As you can...
260
00:14:15,647 --> 00:14:18,806
We heard that he have
the special necklace. Yeah.
261
00:14:18,806 --> 00:14:21,597
In that necklace
they have 3,000 diamonds.
262
00:14:21,597 --> 00:14:24,597
Wow! And out of 3,000 diamonds
there's a one diamond,
263
00:14:24,597 --> 00:14:27,037
the seventh largest in the world.
264
00:14:27,037 --> 00:14:31,397
And the cos, at that time in 1938,
is $25 million.
265
00:14:31,397 --> 00:14:33,727
But right now the value of that...
266
00:14:33,727 --> 00:14:36,647
It'd be about 250 million,
I'd suspect.
267
00:14:36,647 --> 00:14:39,317
More than... More than.
More than, sir. More than, sir.
268
00:14:39,317 --> 00:14:42,167
Well, I think it's a great vision
of good living.
269
00:14:42,167 --> 00:14:44,287
Perhaps, a little extravagant.
HE LAUGHS
270
00:14:46,037 --> 00:14:47,647
Wonderful.
271
00:14:56,087 --> 00:14:57,647
JANGLING
272
00:14:57,647 --> 00:14:59,167
I thought that was a valet,
I thought.
273
00:14:59,167 --> 00:15:00,597
JANGLING CONTINUES
274
00:15:01,676 --> 00:15:04,397
The call to drink.
LAUGHTER IN BACKGROUND
275
00:15:04,397 --> 00:15:09,527
'In fact, not a call to drink,
just a rattling glass.
276
00:15:09,527 --> 00:15:11,847
'But I'm taking it
as my call to sleep...
277
00:15:12,957 --> 00:15:15,727
'..which is probably
just what's needed,
278
00:15:15,727 --> 00:15:19,247
'given that there'll be so much
to see over the next eight days.'
279
00:15:27,704 --> 00:15:29,145
TRAIN HORN
280
00:15:38,235 --> 00:15:39,644
Valet service.
281
00:15:42,675 --> 00:15:44,524
Good morning, Sir Trevor,
how are you?
282
00:15:44,524 --> 00:15:46,565
Good, very good, thank you.
Good to see you.
283
00:15:46,565 --> 00:15:48,925
Oh, good. Did you sleep well, sir?
Yes, thank you.
284
00:15:48,925 --> 00:15:51,835
Nice way to start the day.
Thank you, sir.
285
00:15:51,835 --> 00:15:53,755
Thank you very much. Thank you.
286
00:15:57,805 --> 00:15:59,235
It's fantastic!
287
00:16:02,925 --> 00:16:06,315
'After a 200-mile
overnight journey north,
288
00:16:06,315 --> 00:16:09,315
'we've arrived
at the small town of Pachora,
289
00:16:09,315 --> 00:16:11,235
'and we're just in time
for breakfast.
290
00:16:12,365 --> 00:16:15,675
'With 23 carriages,
the Maharajas' Express
291
00:16:15,675 --> 00:16:18,524
'is as long
as five football pitches,
292
00:16:18,524 --> 00:16:23,165
'which means that, in a way, it has
its own in-built exercise regime.'
293
00:16:25,955 --> 00:16:29,125
You take a long time to get
from your suite to this place.
294
00:16:30,365 --> 00:16:34,844
Cos you have to stop and say hello
and good morning to so many people.
295
00:16:34,844 --> 00:16:36,285
It's rather nice.
296
00:16:40,205 --> 00:16:41,675
The swaying...
297
00:16:42,955 --> 00:16:46,755
...of the ride is, um,
a little more than you expect.
298
00:16:48,035 --> 00:16:50,524
I suppose you move on the rails
even in the luxury train.
299
00:16:56,394 --> 00:16:59,675
'At every station stop,
we're given a royal welcome,
300
00:16:59,675 --> 00:17:02,285
'similar, perhaps,
to that given to a maharaja.
301
00:17:03,565 --> 00:17:06,675
'Guests are disembarking
to tour the local area.'
302
00:17:06,675 --> 00:17:07,925
Good morning.
303
00:17:07,925 --> 00:17:09,315
MUSIC PLAYS
304
00:17:11,165 --> 00:17:12,675
Morning.
Morning
305
00:17:12,675 --> 00:17:15,235
Oh, morning.
Morning, morning.
306
00:17:15,235 --> 00:17:17,474
'But we're heading
somewhere else entirely.'
307
00:17:19,005 --> 00:17:20,594
Rather nice, though, isn't it?
308
00:17:24,805 --> 00:17:25,755
HORNS HONK
309
00:17:27,675 --> 00:17:29,955
'This is old India.
310
00:17:32,165 --> 00:17:36,005
'Pachora is located
in the rural state of Maharashtra.
311
00:17:37,285 --> 00:17:39,594
'It's one of the nation's
food baskets.
312
00:17:40,844 --> 00:17:43,524
'But despite the economic boom
in the cities,
313
00:17:43,524 --> 00:17:45,835
'Maharashtra is struggling.
314
00:17:47,165 --> 00:17:49,285
'I'm here to find out why.
315
00:17:51,285 --> 00:17:55,594
'People in rural areas like this
are leaving in droves
316
00:17:55,594 --> 00:17:58,485
'to find work in the cities.
317
00:17:58,485 --> 00:18:03,594
'Ten years ago,
340 million Indians lived in cities.
318
00:18:03,594 --> 00:18:08,365
'In another decade, that figure
will be nearly 600 million.
319
00:18:11,805 --> 00:18:15,485
'Ritesh is one farmer
who decided to stay.
320
00:18:15,485 --> 00:18:17,955
'He's tended
the same plot of land now
321
00:18:17,955 --> 00:18:19,394
'for over 50 years.
322
00:18:20,644 --> 00:18:24,394
'But in four of the last six years,
he's been hit by drought.
323
00:18:24,394 --> 00:18:27,235
'This year, it devastated his crop.'
324
00:18:27,235 --> 00:18:28,514
BELLS JINGLE
325
00:18:30,085 --> 00:18:31,445
Hello.
326
00:18:31,445 --> 00:18:33,005
TRANSLATOR SPEAKS
327
00:18:33,005 --> 00:18:34,195
It's very nice to meet you.
328
00:18:36,565 --> 00:18:40,285
When was the last time
you grew a successful crop here?
329
00:18:40,285 --> 00:18:42,115
SPEAKS IN OWN DIALECT
330
00:18:46,394 --> 00:18:49,365
And since that time, no crops?
331
00:18:49,365 --> 00:18:50,805
SPEAKS IN OWN DIALECT
332
00:18:50,805 --> 00:18:53,394
And is that because
of the lack of rain?
333
00:18:56,594 --> 00:18:58,445
Yes. How much rain
334
00:18:58,445 --> 00:19:02,644
would you need now to restore this
to anything like it was?
335
00:19:02,644 --> 00:19:04,445
SPEAKS IN OWN DIALECT
336
00:19:04,445 --> 00:19:06,675
You'll need about three months rain?
Yeah.
337
00:19:06,675 --> 00:19:08,565
Any sign of that?
TRANSLATOR LAUGHS
338
00:19:08,565 --> 00:19:10,235
SPEAKS IN OWN DIALECT
339
00:19:17,365 --> 00:19:19,514
SPEAKS IN OWN DIALECT
340
00:19:23,724 --> 00:19:25,835
'So far, the rains haven't come.
341
00:19:27,755 --> 00:19:31,445
'And there's not enough water in
the well to irrigate Ritesh's land.
342
00:19:32,925 --> 00:19:35,644
'Next month, his daughter
is due to get married,
343
00:19:35,644 --> 00:19:39,445
'but Ritesh doesn't have the money
to pay for her wedding.'
344
00:19:40,644 --> 00:19:44,155
It's very difficult to see
this changing.
345
00:19:48,085 --> 00:19:49,514
SPEAKS IN OWN DIALECT
346
00:19:57,955 --> 00:19:59,394
From what percentage?
347
00:20:03,485 --> 00:20:05,155
But that's a...
In this particular area.
348
00:20:05,155 --> 00:20:06,235
Yes.
That's right. Yeah.
349
00:20:06,235 --> 00:20:08,394
That's a catastrophic fall!
350
00:20:08,394 --> 00:20:09,875
That's bad.
351
00:20:15,925 --> 00:20:18,835
'Many of Ritesh's friends
face the same problem.
352
00:20:20,085 --> 00:20:24,005
'The government has provided
some with emergency loans,
353
00:20:24,005 --> 00:20:28,235
'but farmers can't afford
the repayments.'
354
00:20:28,235 --> 00:20:32,235
Why do people keep coming back
over and over to this
355
00:20:32,235 --> 00:20:34,235
land like this,
to this plot of ground?
356
00:20:34,235 --> 00:20:35,875
SPEAKS IN OWN DIALECT
357
00:20:39,235 --> 00:20:41,235
What's he say?
358
00:20:45,675 --> 00:20:47,005
It's almost...
Yeah.
359
00:20:47,005 --> 00:20:49,844
...a kind of spiritual connection
to the land,
360
00:20:49,844 --> 00:20:51,485
which is why you must
keep coming back.
361
00:20:51,485 --> 00:20:52,565
Yeah, every single day.
362
00:20:52,565 --> 00:20:55,445
Well, I wish you luck,
363
00:20:55,445 --> 00:20:58,205
but, in the circumstances,
that seems a...
364
00:20:58,205 --> 00:21:01,565
a very poor thing to say, really.
365
00:21:02,644 --> 00:21:04,644
Thank you, very much. Thank you.
366
00:21:30,644 --> 00:21:33,155
'Much of what I see around me here
367
00:21:33,155 --> 00:21:36,155
'has a strange familiarity to it.
368
00:21:36,155 --> 00:21:37,925
'I grew up in Trinidad,
369
00:21:37,925 --> 00:21:40,394
'an island where
almost half the population
370
00:21:40,394 --> 00:21:43,155
'were of Indian heritage.
371
00:21:43,155 --> 00:21:46,594
'Like all migrants,
they arrived in the Caribbean
372
00:21:46,594 --> 00:21:49,235
'with their culture, religion,
373
00:21:49,235 --> 00:21:53,724
'lifestyle and, of course, food.'
374
00:21:53,724 --> 00:21:56,565
I remember coming back from school
375
00:21:56,565 --> 00:22:00,724
and always dipping into the Indian
festivals because we got free food.
376
00:22:01,724 --> 00:22:04,675
And they always gave us free food.
377
00:22:04,675 --> 00:22:10,394
And one feature of these festivals
was elaborate cooking.
378
00:22:10,394 --> 00:22:13,155
And they never turned us
schoolchildren away.
379
00:22:15,125 --> 00:22:17,644
And that would lessen the burden
on my mother to prepare dinner.
380
00:22:19,005 --> 00:22:22,485
'But there was another reason
why, as a child,
381
00:22:22,485 --> 00:22:25,085
'I was drawn to Indian festivals.'
382
00:22:27,315 --> 00:22:29,005
I was born on an island
383
00:22:29,005 --> 00:22:33,435
which had a total population
of about a million and a half.
384
00:22:33,435 --> 00:22:35,085
Almost half the population
were Indian.
385
00:22:35,085 --> 00:22:37,795
Um... I'm pretty sure
that my father was.
386
00:22:37,795 --> 00:22:41,285
My mother was pure Afro-Caribbean
and we were the product.
387
00:22:41,285 --> 00:22:44,764
And my father had long,
straight black hair
388
00:22:44,764 --> 00:22:48,035
and he wouldn't be classified
as, sort of, African negroid.
389
00:22:49,514 --> 00:22:52,035
It's the story of West Indian life.
390
00:22:52,035 --> 00:22:55,594
It's people coming in
from other parts of the world,
391
00:22:55,594 --> 00:22:57,724
from Africa and from India.
392
00:22:59,764 --> 00:23:03,837
In a strange, amazing, way,
393
00:23:03,837 --> 00:23:05,717
we are all connected.
394
00:23:05,717 --> 00:23:10,428
Which makes me think that
any kind of political philosophy
395
00:23:10,428 --> 00:23:13,278
which tried to divide people
is pernicious.
396
00:23:14,788 --> 00:23:17,948
'Home to one sixth of humanity,
397
00:23:17,948 --> 00:23:22,788
'the people of this nation are drawn
from many cultures and many faiths.
398
00:23:22,788 --> 00:23:27,148
'The challenge for the new India
remains as it's always been,
399
00:23:27,148 --> 00:23:28,998
'to unite them.'
400
00:23:49,178 --> 00:23:51,178
'Day three
401
00:23:51,178 --> 00:23:55,865
'and the Maharajas' Express
is 500 miles into its journey
402
00:23:55,865 --> 00:23:57,716
'across the north-west of India.'
403
00:24:01,995 --> 00:24:04,026
'We're headed for Rajasthan
404
00:24:04,026 --> 00:24:08,186
'on our way to India's
most romantic city Udaipur.'
405
00:24:09,436 --> 00:24:11,436
HORN BLARES
406
00:24:15,026 --> 00:24:17,436
Gosh, this is so elegant.
Yes, sir.
407
00:24:17,436 --> 00:24:20,226
'I'm in the restaurant
with train manager Nitin.
408
00:24:20,226 --> 00:24:23,306
'The elaborate design
is another illustration
409
00:24:23,306 --> 00:24:25,586
'of the maharajas love of grandeur.'
410
00:24:25,586 --> 00:24:29,226
The peacock is the national bird
in India. OK.
411
00:24:29,226 --> 00:24:32,026
This stained glass
is come from Spain.
412
00:24:32,026 --> 00:24:33,826
This chair is mahogany.
413
00:24:33,826 --> 00:24:34,995
Mahogany?
Yes.
414
00:24:34,995 --> 00:24:37,865
You can see these large tiles.
It is from Germany.
415
00:24:37,865 --> 00:24:39,636
From Germany?
Yes.
416
00:24:39,636 --> 00:24:42,076
It's more romantic
when you'll eat over here, sir.
417
00:24:42,076 --> 00:24:43,226
Yeah.
It is.
418
00:24:43,226 --> 00:24:45,076
I take your word for that (!)
419
00:24:45,076 --> 00:24:48,586
'The train has been loaded up
with four tons of food.'
420
00:24:48,586 --> 00:24:49,865
That's the kitchen, sir.
421
00:24:49,865 --> 00:24:53,795
'And there are nine chefs on board
to prepare it.'
422
00:24:54,795 --> 00:24:56,436
I can hear the sounds
of the kitchen.
423
00:24:56,436 --> 00:24:58,386
Yes, sir.
CHEF: Yes, sir!
424
00:24:58,386 --> 00:25:01,026
And we're going past the chef,
john, nice to see you again.
425
00:25:01,026 --> 00:25:02,865
Thank you, so much.
Nice to see you again.
426
00:25:02,865 --> 00:25:07,106
TANNOY: Dinner will be served
from 7.30pm onwards. Thank you.
427
00:25:07,106 --> 00:25:11,685
'And there's more.
It's another restaurant.'
428
00:25:11,685 --> 00:25:14,015
Wow.
It's called Rang Mahal.
429
00:25:14,015 --> 00:25:17,026
Yes, what does that mean?
Rang Mahal means colour. Yeah.
430
00:25:17,026 --> 00:25:19,386
So, this is
the colourful restaurant.
431
00:25:19,386 --> 00:25:22,716
From the moment I walked in here,
I was stunned by this ceiling.
432
00:25:22,716 --> 00:25:24,556
This is the ceiling carpet...
Yeah.
433
00:25:24,556 --> 00:25:27,665
...which is made with the horse hair.
434
00:25:27,665 --> 00:25:29,865
OK.
Yes.
435
00:25:29,865 --> 00:25:31,636
My goodness.
436
00:25:31,636 --> 00:25:34,865
The effect is stunning.
I think it's wonderful.
437
00:25:36,436 --> 00:25:41,795
Now, when I first came in here these
caught my eye. They are beautiful.
438
00:25:41,795 --> 00:25:43,665
Yes, sir.
Are these gold plates?
439
00:25:43,665 --> 00:25:44,865
Yes, sir.
440
00:25:44,865 --> 00:25:47,556
This is the gold-plated plates.
441
00:25:47,556 --> 00:25:51,826
It's 24-carat gold.
442
00:25:51,826 --> 00:25:56,076
And the cost of this one
is nearby $500 per plate.
443
00:25:56,076 --> 00:25:58,026
$500 per plate?
Yes, sir.
444
00:25:58,026 --> 00:26:00,946
So, you don't want passengers
walking off with these plates?
445
00:26:00,946 --> 00:26:04,106
LAUGHTER
Definitely, sir.
446
00:26:06,276 --> 00:26:07,865
HORN BLOWS
447
00:26:15,785 --> 00:26:18,356
The lamb looks good.
448
00:26:18,356 --> 00:26:21,386
'So far, I've met many
of the ordinary people of India.
449
00:26:22,915 --> 00:26:25,586
'It's hard not to think
about their daily battles,
450
00:26:25,586 --> 00:26:27,716
'simply to survive.
451
00:26:29,186 --> 00:26:33,196
'But it's always intriguing to
find out how the other half lives.
452
00:26:36,026 --> 00:26:37,995
'Tomorrow, in Udaipur,
453
00:26:37,995 --> 00:26:42,146
'I've been invited to one of the
largest royal palaces in all India.
454
00:26:43,466 --> 00:26:46,146
'I'm going to meet the son
of a maharaja.'
455
00:26:51,076 --> 00:26:54,716
BUGLE CALL,
DRUMS
456
00:26:55,995 --> 00:26:58,535
'In the morning,
there's another ceremonial welcome.
457
00:27:00,196 --> 00:27:04,716
'As we prepare to see one
of India's most beautiful cities.
458
00:27:19,146 --> 00:27:22,356
'For 500 years,
Udaipur has been the capital
459
00:27:22,356 --> 00:27:25,535
'of a vast, princely state
known as Mewar.
460
00:27:27,506 --> 00:27:31,506
'Home to half a million people,
the city's seven man-made lakes
461
00:27:31,506 --> 00:27:35,356
'were constructed by generations
of local maharajas.
462
00:27:37,226 --> 00:27:41,466
'Spectacularly rich,
these regional kings of Mewar
463
00:27:41,466 --> 00:27:44,076
'thought nothing
of draining Lake Pichola's
464
00:27:44,076 --> 00:27:48,896
'13 million cubic metres
just to build another retreat.
465
00:27:53,865 --> 00:27:57,506
'For centuries,
even under formal British rule,
466
00:27:57,506 --> 00:28:01,106
'between 1858 and 1947,
467
00:28:01,106 --> 00:28:02,945
'maharajas across all India
468
00:28:02,945 --> 00:28:05,726
'were masters
of their own private kingdoms.
469
00:28:07,956 --> 00:28:11,366
'But when the British left,
everything changed.
470
00:28:13,476 --> 00:28:17,186
'Every single maharaja
was forced to hand over his land
471
00:28:17,186 --> 00:28:19,875
'to the new Republic of India.
472
00:28:26,036 --> 00:28:29,795
'To many ordinary Indians,
it was a welcome change.
473
00:28:29,795 --> 00:28:35,795
'Today, maharajas do still live
in palaces like this one in Udaipur.
474
00:28:35,795 --> 00:28:37,476
'But since independence,
475
00:28:37,476 --> 00:28:40,316
'their authority
has been slowly eaten away.
476
00:28:43,646 --> 00:28:48,396
'Prince Lakshyaraj Singh Mewar
is the son of Arvind Singh,
477
00:28:48,396 --> 00:28:53,436
'crowned in 1952
as the 76th Maharana of Udaipur.
478
00:28:56,036 --> 00:28:59,206
'I wanted to find out
what it was like for the maharajas
479
00:28:59,206 --> 00:29:02,516
'when the new India took
most of the power from them.'
480
00:29:07,005 --> 00:29:09,206
What sort of things
were people talking about
481
00:29:09,206 --> 00:29:11,875
when they talked about that change,
that period?
482
00:29:11,875 --> 00:29:14,086
Well, to put it very bluntly
and straightforwardly,
483
00:29:14,086 --> 00:29:16,286
that now, maharajas
are going to start washing dishes.
484
00:29:17,956 --> 00:29:19,875
Was it as, as, as...
Yes...
485
00:29:19,875 --> 00:29:22,186
...as stern as that?
Absolutely. Absolutely.
486
00:29:22,186 --> 00:29:24,616
Because that's how we was
considered to be at that time.
487
00:29:24,616 --> 00:29:27,436
The entire nation was up in arms.
There was no question about it.
488
00:29:27,436 --> 00:29:29,076
And let me also be very honest
489
00:29:29,076 --> 00:29:31,286
and give you certain facts
of history.
490
00:29:31,286 --> 00:29:34,396
We were the first family to merge
in the Republic of India.
491
00:29:34,396 --> 00:29:37,366
We were the first ones to say
that there should be a great,
492
00:29:37,366 --> 00:29:40,795
independent, happy,
United Republic of India.
493
00:29:42,516 --> 00:29:44,206
'After independence,
494
00:29:44,206 --> 00:29:47,476
'maharajas were given sweeteners
in return for giving up power.
495
00:29:48,846 --> 00:29:51,396
'They were allowed
to keep their royal titles
496
00:29:51,396 --> 00:29:54,156
'and they received
handsome annual purses
497
00:29:54,156 --> 00:29:57,726
'as compensation for giving up
their lands to the state.'
498
00:29:57,726 --> 00:30:01,956
What were people who didn't
accepted going to do?
499
00:30:01,956 --> 00:30:03,795
Well, I don't know.
Some may have perished...
500
00:30:03,795 --> 00:30:05,186
Yes.
Some may exist.
501
00:30:05,186 --> 00:30:07,726
But when you're presented
with a revolutionary situation,
502
00:30:07,726 --> 00:30:09,646
you come up with
revolutionary ideas,
503
00:30:09,646 --> 00:30:12,206
and the idea was
certain parts of the palaces were
504
00:30:12,206 --> 00:30:15,076
converted into museums, certain
parts were converted into hotels
505
00:30:15,076 --> 00:30:16,396
and, at the same time,
506
00:30:16,396 --> 00:30:19,116
we couldn't give up on
a 1,500-year-old promise
507
00:30:19,116 --> 00:30:21,875
of looking after the people.
508
00:30:21,875 --> 00:30:24,726
So, as far as you're concerned,
it's worked out well?
509
00:30:24,726 --> 00:30:26,286
Yes. Absolutely.
510
00:30:29,726 --> 00:30:32,596
'It does seem to have
worked out pretty well.
511
00:30:32,596 --> 00:30:35,956
'The hotels they opened have
entertained the Queen,
512
00:30:35,956 --> 00:30:37,846
'the Shah of Iran
513
00:30:37,846 --> 00:30:40,366
'and American
First Lady Jackie Kennedy,
514
00:30:40,366 --> 00:30:43,396
'seen here at the palace in 1962.
515
00:30:45,596 --> 00:30:48,736
'And though the Maharana
must now confine his quarters
516
00:30:48,736 --> 00:30:53,206
'to a small corner of the complex,
he has still managed
517
00:30:53,206 --> 00:30:56,545
'to corner a decent share
of the income from tourism.
518
00:31:07,436 --> 00:31:10,466
'Away from the serenity
of the palace,
519
00:31:10,466 --> 00:31:14,286
'Udaipur is a bustling city
of half a million people.
520
00:31:14,286 --> 00:31:18,096
'Its markets
are a kaleidoscope of colour,
521
00:31:18,096 --> 00:31:21,875
'crammed with exotic vegetables
and fresh spices.
522
00:31:21,875 --> 00:31:26,925
'The perfect place for the trained
chefs to source fresh produce.'
523
00:31:32,956 --> 00:31:34,545
PLATES RATTLE
524
00:31:37,396 --> 00:31:41,076
'The 67 passengers on this trip
are having most of their meals
525
00:31:41,076 --> 00:31:45,116
'in the comfort of the train's
two restaurants.
526
00:31:45,116 --> 00:31:49,396
'All prepared by executive chef
John Stone and his team.'
527
00:31:53,366 --> 00:31:54,716
SPEAKS IN OWN DIALECT
528
00:31:55,875 --> 00:31:58,186
Please, come, sir.
OK. And I'll just show you.
529
00:31:58,186 --> 00:32:01,396
'And John's devotion to his kitchen
is transparent.'
530
00:32:01,396 --> 00:32:04,646
This is my most expensive
piece of equipment,
531
00:32:04,646 --> 00:32:06,316
it's called the combination oven.
532
00:32:06,316 --> 00:32:09,466
It does everything from
boiling rice to baking breads.
533
00:32:09,466 --> 00:32:11,116
Wow.
Including microwave cooking.
534
00:32:11,116 --> 00:32:13,825
Anything can be done in this.
Yes.
535
00:32:13,825 --> 00:32:15,685
Now, we are getting ready
for the dinner. Yes.
536
00:32:15,685 --> 00:32:18,966
Now, everything on top is hot,
down below is cold.
537
00:32:18,966 --> 00:32:21,685
I don't have to run to the store
to get my vegetables.
538
00:32:21,685 --> 00:32:22,765
They're all here.
539
00:32:22,765 --> 00:32:25,885
Optimum usage of space,
which is very, very essential.
540
00:32:25,885 --> 00:32:27,246
SIR TREVOR LAUGHS
Yeah.
541
00:32:27,246 --> 00:32:29,246
All the ingredients that you see...
542
00:32:29,246 --> 00:32:30,765
Yes.
..all world class.
543
00:32:30,765 --> 00:32:33,856
If you were an Italian
and you wanted a risotto,
544
00:32:33,856 --> 00:32:36,935
I would give you a risotto
made out of arborio rice
545
00:32:36,935 --> 00:32:39,166
and not basmati rice.
Right.
546
00:32:39,166 --> 00:32:40,885
Still now, in my eight years,
547
00:32:40,885 --> 00:32:43,656
we've never said no
to any guest for anything.
548
00:32:43,656 --> 00:32:45,576
You've never had any complaints?
Yes.
549
00:32:45,576 --> 00:32:47,476
Food is all about fashion.
550
00:32:47,476 --> 00:32:50,656
And somewhere along with
good ingredients,
551
00:32:50,656 --> 00:32:52,606
if you put a little bit
of love into it.
552
00:32:52,606 --> 00:32:54,656
The dish automatically
comes out good.
553
00:32:54,656 --> 00:32:57,805
All chefs talk about putting love
into their food. Yes.
554
00:32:58,935 --> 00:33:01,086
And what about
the products that you get,
555
00:33:01,086 --> 00:33:02,885
where do they come from?
556
00:33:02,885 --> 00:33:05,966
I'll tell you,
so all my meats are imported.
557
00:33:05,966 --> 00:33:07,606
From where?
Er, so, like,
558
00:33:07,606 --> 00:33:10,606
the lobsters come
all the way from Australia,
559
00:33:10,606 --> 00:33:12,805
Er...
You get lobsters from Australia?
560
00:33:12,805 --> 00:33:15,576
Yes. Norwegian,
the salmon is coming from Norway.
561
00:33:15,576 --> 00:33:17,326
Smoked salmon is coming from Norway.
562
00:33:17,326 --> 00:33:21,246
The shrimps and prawns are coming
all the way from Malaysia,
563
00:33:21,246 --> 00:33:22,935
the chicken
is coming from Sri Lanka,
564
00:33:22,935 --> 00:33:24,765
lamb is coming from Australia.
565
00:33:24,765 --> 00:33:27,116
I don't believe it.
Sir, for this train,
566
00:33:27,116 --> 00:33:29,326
you can't have anything
but the best.
567
00:33:30,606 --> 00:33:32,015
I knew you were going to say that.
568
00:33:32,015 --> 00:33:33,366
LAUGHS
Thank you, sir.
569
00:33:34,526 --> 00:33:36,106
And on the menu tonight?
570
00:33:36,106 --> 00:33:37,986
Sir, stuffed chicken breast,
571
00:33:37,986 --> 00:33:40,246
which has been slit
through the centre
572
00:33:40,246 --> 00:33:43,015
and are stuffed with mushrooms,
573
00:33:43,015 --> 00:33:45,216
cooked in white wine
along with cheddar cheese.
574
00:33:45,216 --> 00:33:48,326
And along with that,
would be a nice red wine reduction.
575
00:33:49,805 --> 00:33:51,246
I like that.
576
00:33:52,935 --> 00:33:59,326
'It seems a miracle that all this
can be done on a fast-moving train.'
577
00:33:59,326 --> 00:34:05,296
Tell me about the big difficulty
of working in a kitchen
578
00:34:05,296 --> 00:34:08,296
on a quickly moving train,
579
00:34:08,296 --> 00:34:11,116
cos this is... it's not even easy
to stand around here.
580
00:34:11,116 --> 00:34:14,086
Are you able to say
to the engineer or the driver,
581
00:34:14,086 --> 00:34:17,685
"We're having a gala dinner tonight,
could you keep the speed down?"
582
00:34:17,685 --> 00:34:20,366
Sir, we are fortunately,
we are very lucky
583
00:34:20,366 --> 00:34:24,606
because on the day when we have
gala dinners, the train is static.
584
00:34:24,606 --> 00:34:26,656
LAUGHTER
It doesn't move at all.
585
00:34:26,656 --> 00:34:28,166
That's a bit of a cheat!
Yes.
586
00:34:28,166 --> 00:34:31,326
But if I request,
"Please slow down a bit
587
00:34:31,326 --> 00:34:33,805
"because the soup is spilling
or the water's spilling,"
588
00:34:33,805 --> 00:34:37,116
he immediately calls up the driver
and the train slows down.
589
00:34:37,116 --> 00:34:39,755
So, you can actually do that?
We can actually do that. Wow.
590
00:34:39,755 --> 00:34:41,046
We can actually do it.
591
00:34:41,046 --> 00:34:42,576
That's impressive.
Thank you, sir.
592
00:34:51,935 --> 00:34:53,606
Thank you.
593
00:34:53,606 --> 00:34:54,935
Thank you very much.
594
00:34:57,935 --> 00:34:59,446
HORN TOOTS
595
00:35:00,656 --> 00:35:04,296
'The Maharajas' Express runs on the
fourth biggest railway in the world.
596
00:35:04,296 --> 00:35:08,755
'Its track will go around the globe
one and a half times.
597
00:35:08,755 --> 00:35:10,526
'Using the regular service,
598
00:35:10,526 --> 00:35:13,805
'a trip from one end of India
to the other,
599
00:35:13,805 --> 00:35:16,606
'the equivalent to travelling
between London and Istanbul,
600
00:35:16,606 --> 00:35:19,326
'costs around £12.
601
00:35:21,935 --> 00:35:27,576
'From Udaipur, we now journey
120 miles north to jodhpur,
602
00:35:27,576 --> 00:35:30,836
'on the edge of India's
spectacular Thar Desert.
603
00:35:36,856 --> 00:35:39,856
'For centuries,
Jodhpur's royal family
604
00:35:39,856 --> 00:35:43,836
'defended their territory
from within these impregnable walls.
605
00:35:47,476 --> 00:35:51,651
'Across town, I've been summoned
to one of the family's
606
00:35:51,675 --> 00:35:53,795
'less intimidating palaces.'
607
00:35:55,795 --> 00:35:59,156
BUGLE CALL,
DRUMS
608
00:36:07,316 --> 00:36:10,106
Thank you, very much.
609
00:36:10,106 --> 00:36:13,316
'With petals thrown at my feet,
610
00:36:13,316 --> 00:36:14,745
'an honour guard before me...
611
00:36:16,316 --> 00:36:19,156
'I'm welcomed to Umaid Bhawan
612
00:36:19,156 --> 00:36:23,795
'the very last maharajas' palace
ever to be built in India.'
613
00:36:23,795 --> 00:36:25,636
Welcome to the palace.
Thank you very much.
614
00:36:25,636 --> 00:36:28,436
Thank you, sir. Please.
Thank you.
615
00:36:28,436 --> 00:36:31,386
Hello. Thank you.
Welcome to the palace, sir.
616
00:36:31,386 --> 00:36:34,558
This garland for you. Please, sir.
617
00:36:34,558 --> 00:36:36,078
Thank you, very much.
618
00:36:36,078 --> 00:36:39,595
'The Maharaja himself
has agreed to meet me.'
619
00:36:39,595 --> 00:36:42,315
It's a very warm welcome,
thank you very much.
620
00:36:52,875 --> 00:36:54,875
'From an ancient fortress...
621
00:36:56,155 --> 00:36:58,955
'..to a symbol of the British Raj...
622
00:37:00,394 --> 00:37:03,344
'..Jodhpur is one of India's
most historic cities.
623
00:37:04,835 --> 00:37:07,195
'On the edge of India's Thar Desert,
624
00:37:07,195 --> 00:37:10,315
'temperatures here can reach
50 degrees in summer.
625
00:37:13,115 --> 00:37:16,594
'Today, though, it's a balmy 28.'
626
00:37:16,594 --> 00:37:20,065
BUGLE CALL
Extraordinary place, this is.
627
00:37:21,985 --> 00:37:24,675
'This is Jodhpur's
Umaid Bhavan Palace.'
628
00:37:26,835 --> 00:37:28,905
It's wonderful.
629
00:37:28,905 --> 00:37:32,344
'And I'm here to meet
the last maharaja of Jodhpur.'
630
00:37:34,875 --> 00:37:36,545
MUSIC AND SINGING
631
00:37:39,985 --> 00:37:44,315
'My welcome takes place in
the palace's glorious entrance hall.
632
00:37:49,065 --> 00:37:51,785
'It's a magnificent setting.
633
00:37:54,264 --> 00:37:56,755
'In all India
634
00:37:56,755 --> 00:37:58,875
'only the Taj Mahal
has a bigger dome.
635
00:38:03,035 --> 00:38:05,875
'Built in the 1920s
as a private home,
636
00:38:05,875 --> 00:38:09,724
'I'm told the palace was assembled
without mortar or cement.
637
00:38:10,955 --> 00:38:13,235
'Every stone is marked
with a number,
638
00:38:13,235 --> 00:38:16,344
'so that the entire edifice can,
at a whim,
639
00:38:16,344 --> 00:38:19,394
'be taken down
and rebuilt somewhere else.
640
00:38:19,394 --> 00:38:22,155
'Flat pack at its finest (!)
641
00:38:22,155 --> 00:38:27,065
'The man I've come to meet,
Gaj Singh was a child king.
642
00:38:28,445 --> 00:38:32,875
'He was only four years old in 1952,
when he became maharaja.'
643
00:38:33,985 --> 00:38:36,905
Sir, please, this way.
The maharaja is in here.
644
00:38:36,905 --> 00:38:38,195
Oh, thank you.
645
00:38:38,195 --> 00:38:42,625
'After his coronation,
Gaj was sent to school in England,
646
00:38:42,625 --> 00:38:45,445
'Returning home just in time
for the bad news
647
00:38:45,445 --> 00:38:51,195
'that in 1947, the government
had taken away the maharaja's land.
648
00:38:54,115 --> 00:38:59,065
'Then, in 1971,
it stripped them of their titles...
649
00:39:01,394 --> 00:39:02,755
'..and made them commoners.'
650
00:39:04,365 --> 00:39:08,394
'Even so, the place has
an atmosphere of solemn reverence.'
651
00:39:08,394 --> 00:39:10,035
OK.
652
00:39:10,035 --> 00:39:13,625
'As I'm led in and out
of various rooms...'
653
00:39:13,625 --> 00:39:15,344
Going back the way we came.
654
00:39:16,435 --> 00:39:18,625
'..And along various corridors.'
655
00:39:19,835 --> 00:39:21,264
Ah, it's another room.
656
00:39:24,985 --> 00:39:27,474
'It is as if I'm being inspected
657
00:39:27,474 --> 00:39:31,795
'by the all-seeing eyes
of former maharajas.
658
00:39:36,344 --> 00:39:37,835
'As I wait...
659
00:39:40,264 --> 00:39:41,955
'..and wait...
660
00:39:44,594 --> 00:39:48,474
'..you'd never suspect
that the boy king, Gaj Singh,
661
00:39:48,474 --> 00:39:51,594
'once crowned last
Maharaja of jodhpur,
662
00:39:51,594 --> 00:39:54,835
'is today,
according to the Indian state,
663
00:39:54,835 --> 00:39:56,955
'just an ordinary man.'
664
00:39:57,875 --> 00:39:59,235
Gosh.
665
00:40:00,474 --> 00:40:01,875
My goodness.
666
00:40:01,875 --> 00:40:03,435
BIRDSONG
667
00:40:03,435 --> 00:40:06,795
'My audience will take
place on the terrace.'
668
00:40:06,795 --> 00:40:08,955
Absolutely spectacular view.
669
00:40:08,955 --> 00:40:10,344
Glorious sunlight.
670
00:40:13,474 --> 00:40:15,474
'But where is he?
671
00:40:18,645 --> 00:40:21,494
'Finally, he appears.'
672
00:40:23,335 --> 00:40:25,175
Hello, sir.
Good afternoon.
673
00:40:25,175 --> 00:40:28,105
'And I have the chance
to ask him how it felt
674
00:40:28,105 --> 00:40:30,725
'to have his maharaja title
taken away.'
675
00:40:32,744 --> 00:40:36,455
Of course, it all changed in 1971
with the change of the constitution.
676
00:40:36,455 --> 00:40:39,815
Did you regret having
so short a time as Maharaja?
677
00:40:39,815 --> 00:40:44,845
It wasn't that, it was the, um,
the way it was done.
678
00:40:44,845 --> 00:40:48,335
We were made to look small
from being privileged people,
679
00:40:49,565 --> 00:40:53,494
The press was against,
the political climate was against.
680
00:40:53,494 --> 00:40:56,534
And you once said,
"We are the bad boys."
681
00:40:56,534 --> 00:40:58,744
What did you mean by that?
682
00:40:58,744 --> 00:41:01,205
We were made out to be the bad boys.
I see, yes.
683
00:41:01,205 --> 00:41:03,645
Everything became an issue.
Yes.
684
00:41:03,645 --> 00:41:06,815
Individuals went, land ownerships,
685
00:41:06,815 --> 00:41:10,614
and the whole thing,
it was a bit of a dampener.
686
00:41:10,614 --> 00:41:12,135
It hit us very badly.
687
00:41:12,135 --> 00:41:15,534
Do you think what was done,
was done because of any,
688
00:41:15,534 --> 00:41:17,385
kind of, envy at the privileges?
689
00:41:17,385 --> 00:41:18,775
No, change had to come,
690
00:41:18,775 --> 00:41:22,025
and we said we want it to change,
it has to come,
691
00:41:22,025 --> 00:41:24,534
but do it in an honourable way.
692
00:41:25,815 --> 00:41:29,775
So, you think it was done
in a dishonourable way?
693
00:41:29,775 --> 00:41:32,494
Yes.
Yeah.
694
00:41:32,494 --> 00:41:33,695
HE LAUGHS
695
00:41:36,975 --> 00:41:39,565
'Like the royals of Udaipur,
696
00:41:39,565 --> 00:41:41,895
'the family have maintained
their lifestyle
697
00:41:41,895 --> 00:41:44,845
'by converting their palace
into an hotel.
698
00:41:46,284 --> 00:41:50,135
'And one that's been voted
the most luxurious in the world.'
699
00:41:57,135 --> 00:42:02,255
'But far beyond the terrace,
in a secret corner of the estate,
700
00:42:02,255 --> 00:42:06,815
'is a hidden treasure from the
long gone clays of the maharajas.
701
00:42:10,205 --> 00:42:13,055
'A genuine Maharajas' royal train.'
702
00:42:17,055 --> 00:42:18,895
Please, sir.
Yeah, OK.
703
00:42:18,895 --> 00:42:22,055
'Sadly, though,
it's not what it once was.'
704
00:42:22,055 --> 00:42:25,135
So, this is the entrance
to the old carriage? Yes, sir.
705
00:42:25,135 --> 00:42:28,734
'Ahmed worked on board
in its glorious heydays.'
706
00:42:28,734 --> 00:42:30,445
It's very narrow
along these corridors.
707
00:42:32,255 --> 00:42:34,364
One metre?
708
00:42:38,055 --> 00:42:42,775
'The train was built 100 years ago,
so that Gaj Singh's grandfather
709
00:42:42,775 --> 00:42:47,255
'could travel in style to the tiger
hunting grounds of the South.'
710
00:42:47,255 --> 00:42:51,455
So, tell me about the fact that
this was built for his grandfather,
711
00:42:51,455 --> 00:42:53,335
the current maharaja?
712
00:43:01,775 --> 00:43:03,135
Wow.
Yeah.
713
00:43:09,284 --> 00:43:11,614
How luxurious were these
carriages?
714
00:43:38,055 --> 00:43:39,085
And what's here?
715
00:43:41,095 --> 00:43:42,135
WQW!
716
00:43:45,484 --> 00:43:47,375
Charcoal?
Charcoal operated.
717
00:43:47,375 --> 00:43:49,614
Yes. So, it limited how
much you could do?
718
00:43:49,614 --> 00:43:51,725
Yeah, very much.
In those days. Yes, sir.
719
00:44:02,925 --> 00:44:07,975
'This very English of trains fell
out of use after the maharaja died.
720
00:44:09,845 --> 00:44:14,815
'But in the 1970s, a young
Gaj Singh brought it back to life.'
721
00:44:14,815 --> 00:44:16,873
TRAIN WHISTLES
722
00:44:18,866 --> 00:44:21,255
'Using it to take his hotel guests
723
00:44:21,255 --> 00:44:25,525
'on sightseeing trips
to the desert city of Jaisalmer.'
724
00:44:30,806 --> 00:44:35,996
'Some might call it the first
and original Maharajas' Express.'
725
00:44:54,525 --> 00:44:58,275
And then go back. It connected
the two places? Yes, sir.
726
00:44:59,966 --> 00:45:02,725
'It connected them,
but not for long.
727
00:45:02,725 --> 00:45:06,605
'The tourist trips ended
after only a few years.
728
00:45:08,636 --> 00:45:11,556
'And so, for the last
two and half decades,
729
00:45:11,556 --> 00:45:18,116
'these once magnificent saloons
have stood alone and empty.
730
00:45:24,886 --> 00:45:27,086
'The royal train's demise
731
00:45:27,086 --> 00:45:31,405
'perhaps symbolises that
of the maharajas themselves.
732
00:45:33,086 --> 00:45:36,086
'Though, as I look out
to the ancient fortress,
733
00:45:36,086 --> 00:45:38,166
'I find it difficult to decide
734
00:45:38,166 --> 00:45:43,556
'whether it really is all over
for the maharajas just yet.
735
00:45:47,326 --> 00:45:49,475
'Next time,
on the Maharajas' Express...
736
00:45:51,886 --> 00:45:54,916
'..my adventure takes me to
India's most extraordinary temple.'
737
00:45:57,756 --> 00:46:00,366
And that helps you to stay healthy?
Yes, healthy.
738
00:46:00,366 --> 00:46:03,046
'A meeting I'll never forget.
739
00:46:04,405 --> 00:46:08,046
'And one of the
Great Wonders of the World.'
740
00:46:08,046 --> 00:46:09,116
Gosh!
741
00:46:09,116 --> 00:46:11,116
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