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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:06,439 --> 00:00:09,408 [ insects chirping ] 2 00:00:14,247 --> 00:00:16,749 [ mid-tempo music plays ] 3 00:00:20,420 --> 00:00:24,790 Kyungai: this is the land of our earliest ancestors, 4 00:00:24,791 --> 00:00:30,129 Where the wild earth of long ago lives on -- east africa. 5 00:00:30,130 --> 00:00:32,598 [ elephants trumpeting ] 6 00:00:42,308 --> 00:00:44,443 Beyond the abundant life 7 00:00:44,444 --> 00:00:47,946 That flows across these endless grasslands 8 00:00:47,947 --> 00:00:52,818 There is one great landmark of beauty and mystery 9 00:00:52,819 --> 00:00:55,487 Revered like no other. 10 00:00:55,488 --> 00:00:57,456 [ birds chirping ] 11 00:00:59,626 --> 00:01:03,962 From the heart of africa, it looms above the clouds, 12 00:01:03,963 --> 00:01:10,336 A solitary giant, the largest freestanding mountain on earth. 13 00:01:10,337 --> 00:01:13,806 It is a mountain of strange wonders, 14 00:01:13,807 --> 00:01:19,311 A place created in fire and crowned by ice. 15 00:01:36,329 --> 00:01:39,832 It is a source of ancient fascination, 16 00:01:39,833 --> 00:01:44,003 A snowcapped volcano at the equator. 17 00:01:46,506 --> 00:01:51,043 People come from every land to see for themselves this, 18 00:01:51,044 --> 00:01:54,013 The highest mountain in all africa, 19 00:01:54,014 --> 00:02:00,185 And maybe even to climb to the snows of kilimanjaro. 20 00:02:03,523 --> 00:02:06,892 I have spent a lifetime climbing this mountain. 21 00:02:06,893 --> 00:02:10,362 I was born here. 22 00:02:10,363 --> 00:02:13,699 My name is jacob kyungai. 23 00:02:13,700 --> 00:02:18,037 I am a mountain guide. 24 00:02:18,038 --> 00:02:20,873 I tell each traveler who comes here, 25 00:02:20,874 --> 00:02:23,542 To learn the secrets of kilimanjaro, 26 00:02:23,543 --> 00:02:28,047 We must begin beneath the clouds, 27 00:02:28,048 --> 00:02:33,552 Not in snow, but in mud. 28 00:02:33,553 --> 00:02:36,555 [ bird chirping ] 29 00:02:36,556 --> 00:02:41,293 Each group I guide is different and the same. 30 00:02:41,294 --> 00:02:44,496 People of every age and origin -- 31 00:02:44,497 --> 00:02:46,632 Ordinary people, mostly, 32 00:02:46,633 --> 00:02:51,303 But all drawn to the magic of this place. 33 00:02:54,307 --> 00:02:56,809 In this group, there's roger, 34 00:02:56,810 --> 00:03:01,647 A scientist who understands how this mountain was made. 35 00:03:01,648 --> 00:03:04,149 Bilham: kilimanjaro is the largest volcano 36 00:03:04,150 --> 00:03:05,651 On any continent. 37 00:03:05,652 --> 00:03:10,022 It is a tremendous attraction for a geophysicist like me. 38 00:03:10,023 --> 00:03:11,657 It's difficult to imagine, 39 00:03:11,658 --> 00:03:15,027 Now that I'm here in the middle of this incredibly lush forest, 40 00:03:15,028 --> 00:03:17,663 That actually I am sitting on the volcano, 41 00:03:17,664 --> 00:03:22,001 That there's a half a mile of volcanic rock beneath me. 42 00:03:24,170 --> 00:03:26,171 Kyungai: and there's audrey, 43 00:03:26,172 --> 00:03:29,541 A writer who has read about kilimanjaro for years 44 00:03:29,542 --> 00:03:33,679 And has finally come to see it for herself. 45 00:03:33,680 --> 00:03:37,383 Salkeld: all my life, really, I've written about mountains, 46 00:03:37,384 --> 00:03:40,886 But rarely do I ever get to the top of mountains. 47 00:03:40,887 --> 00:03:44,189 And so it's hard for me to imagine myself 48 00:03:44,190 --> 00:03:48,527 On the top of this one, but I can dream. 49 00:03:50,463 --> 00:03:55,467 Kyungai: some come to see if they can reach the summit, 50 00:03:55,468 --> 00:03:59,238 Some to explore a curious world, 51 00:03:59,239 --> 00:04:04,943 And some, like heidi, come to learn if the real kilimanjaro 52 00:04:04,944 --> 00:04:08,247 Matches the mountain of their imagination. 53 00:04:08,248 --> 00:04:11,583 Albertsen: I've dreamed of coming here since I was a child, 54 00:04:11,584 --> 00:04:14,319 Hiking in the alps, pretending I was in africa. 55 00:04:14,320 --> 00:04:17,322 I can't believe I'm actually here. 56 00:04:17,323 --> 00:04:21,326 I almost feel like I'm in a dreamworld. 57 00:04:21,327 --> 00:04:23,829 I asked somebody earlier to pinch my arm 58 00:04:23,830 --> 00:04:26,198 Because, like, you're, like, going like this. 59 00:04:26,199 --> 00:04:31,103 It's unreal. It really, really is beautiful. 60 00:04:35,608 --> 00:04:39,111 Kyungai: mostly, I guide people from far away. 61 00:04:39,112 --> 00:04:40,479 But this time, 62 00:04:40,480 --> 00:04:44,950 The son of a good friend here in tanzania has come along. 63 00:04:44,951 --> 00:04:49,121 Hansi wants to learn about the towering mountain 64 00:04:49,122 --> 00:04:51,123 He sees from his backyard. 65 00:04:51,124 --> 00:04:52,624 Mmari: I want to climb kilimanjaro 66 00:04:52,625 --> 00:04:58,464 Because I want my family to be proud of me and... 67 00:04:58,465 --> 00:05:00,799 [ clears throat ] 68 00:05:00,800 --> 00:05:05,571 And I think I can make it because I'm strong, you know. 69 00:05:08,108 --> 00:05:11,477 Kyungai: few 12-year-olds have made this climb, 70 00:05:11,478 --> 00:05:14,113 But nicole made her father promise 71 00:05:14,114 --> 00:05:18,450 To show her the great mountain he had climbed. 72 00:05:18,451 --> 00:05:20,452 Wineland-thomson: today has been really hard, 73 00:05:20,453 --> 00:05:23,622 Going uphill in mud for eight hours. 74 00:05:23,623 --> 00:05:26,291 Everybody's been telling me that, like, 75 00:05:26,292 --> 00:05:27,960 "you're doing a great job. 76 00:05:27,961 --> 00:05:31,330 Just keep on going. You'll make it to the top." 77 00:05:31,331 --> 00:05:34,633 I hope so, because I've always wanted to see what's up there, 78 00:05:34,634 --> 00:05:38,971 Especially the glaciers, ever since my dad told me about them. 79 00:05:38,972 --> 00:05:42,141 Kyungai: the climb ahead is long and demanding. 80 00:05:42,142 --> 00:05:46,845 In the coming days, we will hike more than 45 miles 81 00:05:46,846 --> 00:05:51,917 And climb to over 19,000 feet. 82 00:05:51,918 --> 00:05:54,286 From here, the route to the summit 83 00:05:54,287 --> 00:05:56,755 Passes through many different worlds. 84 00:05:56,756 --> 00:05:58,757 We began far below, 85 00:05:58,758 --> 00:06:02,928 In the humid rainforest that encircles the mountain. 86 00:06:02,929 --> 00:06:06,598 We will reach the unusual trees of the heath zone, 87 00:06:06,599 --> 00:06:10,302 Then grassy moorland and, above that, 88 00:06:10,303 --> 00:06:12,938 Increasingly harsh conditions. 89 00:06:12,939 --> 00:06:16,942 There is an alpine desert above 15,000 feet. 90 00:06:16,943 --> 00:06:19,778 Higher up, just below the mountaintop, 91 00:06:19,779 --> 00:06:24,817 We will enter the arctic region, windswept and bitter cold. 92 00:06:24,818 --> 00:06:28,987 It is like walking from the equator to the north pole 93 00:06:28,988 --> 00:06:31,857 In only a week. 94 00:06:33,927 --> 00:06:37,930 Now, at 10,000 feet, we can see mount meru, 95 00:06:37,931 --> 00:06:41,600 Kilimanjaro's smaller sister volcano, 96 00:06:41,601 --> 00:06:47,573 As darkness ends our first day on the mountain. 97 00:06:52,812 --> 00:06:57,483 Bilham: kilimanjaro is such a vast and broad mountain 98 00:06:57,484 --> 00:07:01,487 That it's hard to tell how big it is when you're on its slopes. 99 00:07:03,823 --> 00:07:05,991 You're such a tiny part of the mountain, 100 00:07:05,992 --> 00:07:09,661 But you begin to get a sense of its immensity at every step, 101 00:07:09,662 --> 00:07:14,667 As the mountain slowly reveals itself. 102 00:07:14,668 --> 00:07:17,002 And you begin to notice things 103 00:07:17,003 --> 00:07:20,005 You could not have imagined from afar. 104 00:07:24,744 --> 00:07:27,379 Salkeld: above 10,000 feet, 105 00:07:27,380 --> 00:07:31,350 We entered the heath zone, a kingdom of shrubs. 106 00:07:31,351 --> 00:07:35,521 But even here, there are splashes of color, 107 00:07:35,522 --> 00:07:38,891 Like the red-hot poker. 108 00:07:38,892 --> 00:07:41,727 They may appear fragile, 109 00:07:41,728 --> 00:07:44,163 But they're exposed to rugged extremes, 110 00:07:44,164 --> 00:07:46,398 And they're tougher than they look. 111 00:07:56,910 --> 00:07:59,078 Bilham: I wonder what early man 112 00:07:59,079 --> 00:08:02,081 Thought of this colossal volcano. 113 00:08:02,082 --> 00:08:04,249 During the past half-million years, 114 00:08:04,250 --> 00:08:07,753 Our ancestors would have watched its birth. 115 00:08:07,754 --> 00:08:10,255 Scorching rivers of lava poured down these slopes, 116 00:08:10,256 --> 00:08:13,425 And eruptions lit up the night sky. 117 00:08:13,426 --> 00:08:17,763 Later people saw the great mountain grow quiet and dormant, 118 00:08:17,764 --> 00:08:19,999 As it is now. 119 00:08:20,000 --> 00:08:23,335 Perhaps they, too, were drawn upwards 120 00:08:23,336 --> 00:08:26,672 To touch the icy glaciers that advanced and retreated 121 00:08:26,673 --> 00:08:29,842 Across its huge summit. 122 00:08:29,843 --> 00:08:33,178 In recent times, the top was an impenetrable shield of ice that, 123 00:08:33,179 --> 00:08:35,514 As far as we know, was unconquered 124 00:08:35,515 --> 00:08:39,852 Until a climber stood on its summit in 1889. 125 00:08:45,592 --> 00:08:47,926 Kyungai: there is an endless rhythm 126 00:08:47,927 --> 00:08:50,596 To the coming of the mists each morning 127 00:08:50,597 --> 00:08:54,600 And their disappearance each afternoon. 128 00:08:54,601 --> 00:08:59,571 They bring enough moisture that exotic plants can thrive here 129 00:08:59,572 --> 00:09:03,842 In dry conditions that would wither them elsewhere. 130 00:09:07,013 --> 00:09:09,014 Albertsen: the mist rolling in quickly 131 00:09:09,015 --> 00:09:10,849 Changes the mood around us. 132 00:09:10,850 --> 00:09:15,521 It shuts out the world, and it feels lonely and mysterious, 133 00:09:15,522 --> 00:09:19,358 As if kilimanjaro is hiding its face. 134 00:09:22,228 --> 00:09:24,396 As I climb with hansi and roger, 135 00:09:24,397 --> 00:09:28,400 It seems like we are traveling on another planet. 136 00:09:30,737 --> 00:09:33,238 Everything is on a different scale. 137 00:09:33,239 --> 00:09:34,907 We have heather in europe. 138 00:09:34,908 --> 00:09:38,077 You can pick it, and you can hold it in your hand. 139 00:09:38,078 --> 00:09:42,314 Here, it's giant and over 30 feet high. 140 00:09:59,232 --> 00:10:02,167 Kyungai: 3,000 feet higher, 141 00:10:02,168 --> 00:10:04,837 The air grows drier and colder still, 142 00:10:04,838 --> 00:10:08,374 And the landscape is transformed. 143 00:10:08,375 --> 00:10:15,214 But here, I like to take people to a place off the main trail, 144 00:10:15,215 --> 00:10:16,882 Where melting snow 145 00:10:16,883 --> 00:10:22,054 Feeds a special hidden valley full of life. 146 00:10:25,558 --> 00:10:28,560 Salkeld: this is a most beautiful place, 147 00:10:28,561 --> 00:10:30,763 And it comes as something as a surprise 148 00:10:30,764 --> 00:10:33,599 Because, suddenly, you drop into this valley, 149 00:10:33,600 --> 00:10:37,403 Which is walled in by mountains. 150 00:10:37,404 --> 00:10:43,142 And best of all, it's walled in by kilimanjaro's summit itself. 151 00:10:43,143 --> 00:10:44,977 [ hammer banging ] 152 00:10:44,978 --> 00:10:48,447 We're at about 13,000 feet here, 153 00:10:48,448 --> 00:10:52,818 Which is quite high for such a proliferation of plants, 154 00:10:52,819 --> 00:10:55,954 And they're probably going to be the last ones we see, 155 00:10:55,955 --> 00:10:59,625 Because higher up it will get increasingly barren. 156 00:11:04,764 --> 00:11:07,566 It is a wonderful place. 157 00:11:07,567 --> 00:11:10,602 All sorts of little streams and gullies go off, 158 00:11:10,603 --> 00:11:13,739 And you hear waterfalls. 159 00:11:13,740 --> 00:11:16,742 And the plants are absolutely fantastic. 160 00:11:16,743 --> 00:11:20,245 Weirdest of all are the giant groundsels, 161 00:11:20,246 --> 00:11:25,084 Like great candelabras with pompons on top. 162 00:11:32,125 --> 00:11:34,593 Nicole and I went to a little groundsel forest 163 00:11:34,594 --> 00:11:36,929 On the other side of this valley, 164 00:11:36,930 --> 00:11:39,098 Which was pure heaven, really. 165 00:11:39,099 --> 00:11:40,933 Wineland-thomson: it was beautiful, 166 00:11:40,934 --> 00:11:43,936 And it sort of felt like I was in dr. Seuss land 167 00:11:43,937 --> 00:11:48,941 Because, like, the trees are so unfamiliar. 168 00:11:52,512 --> 00:11:55,514 Jacob told me that some of these plants 169 00:11:55,515 --> 00:11:57,349 Are more than 100 years old. 170 00:11:57,350 --> 00:11:59,351 They survive that long 171 00:11:59,352 --> 00:12:02,688 Because they can shield themselves from the cold. 172 00:12:02,689 --> 00:12:06,025 When their long, green leaves die, they don't fall off. 173 00:12:06,026 --> 00:12:09,561 Instead, they wrap themselves around the branch, 174 00:12:09,562 --> 00:12:12,865 Insulating the plant like a layer of fur. 175 00:12:27,414 --> 00:12:29,381 Because I've never seen them before. 176 00:12:29,382 --> 00:12:34,353 Like the snow up there -- never seen snow with my eyes. 177 00:12:34,354 --> 00:12:37,856 Just snow -- I've never seen it before. 178 00:12:37,857 --> 00:12:40,025 Stepping on it, I've never tried. 179 00:12:40,026 --> 00:12:45,497 I've never even stepped on snow. It's going to be my first time. 180 00:12:45,498 --> 00:12:47,933 It's really great, you know. 181 00:12:50,036 --> 00:12:53,505 Bilham: up here at 13,000 feet, 182 00:12:53,506 --> 00:12:58,510 The intensity of the equatorial sun makes it summer every day, 183 00:12:58,511 --> 00:13:00,346 Nurturing the plants. 184 00:13:00,347 --> 00:13:03,882 But every night, it turns to winter and freezes solid, 185 00:13:03,883 --> 00:13:07,920 Only to melt in the next day's sun. 186 00:13:07,921 --> 00:13:10,055 In these extremes, 187 00:13:10,056 --> 00:13:13,058 Plants have invented ingenious tricks to survive... 188 00:13:15,128 --> 00:13:18,297 ...None more clever than the lobelia, 189 00:13:18,298 --> 00:13:24,970 Which wraps itself up to ward off the night's biting frost... 190 00:13:24,971 --> 00:13:26,972 Then unfolds the next morning 191 00:13:26,973 --> 00:13:30,476 To absorb the warmth of the rising sun. 192 00:13:44,157 --> 00:13:48,994 Albertsen: how can we understand the natural world like this? 193 00:13:48,995 --> 00:13:53,499 To succeed up here, near what feels like on top of the world, 194 00:13:53,500 --> 00:13:57,836 You, your body, has to change just like the plants. 195 00:13:59,939 --> 00:14:02,908 The thin air is what gets to you. 196 00:14:02,909 --> 00:14:04,410 I don't know. 197 00:14:04,411 --> 00:14:07,079 I think you can be the healthiest person on earth, 198 00:14:07,080 --> 00:14:10,582 But you might not be able to make this mountain. 199 00:14:23,196 --> 00:14:26,865 Kyungai: for most who try to climb kilimanjaro, 200 00:14:26,866 --> 00:14:29,201 It is the journey of a lifetime, 201 00:14:29,202 --> 00:14:34,073 But only half who begin the trip make it to the summit. 202 00:14:34,074 --> 00:14:36,375 The great height of the mountain 203 00:14:36,376 --> 00:14:41,046 And the thin air force many to turn back. 204 00:14:41,047 --> 00:14:45,050 Up here, you have to pay attention to your body. 205 00:14:45,051 --> 00:14:48,721 I make sure everyone is eating well. 206 00:14:48,722 --> 00:14:51,757 My role is to watch out for their safety 207 00:14:51,758 --> 00:14:54,493 In a world unfamiliar to them. 208 00:14:54,494 --> 00:15:00,332 Nicole has her father, rick, along to look out for her. 209 00:15:03,169 --> 00:15:07,172 The real challenges are just beginning. 210 00:15:22,822 --> 00:15:24,857 Bilham: climbing up the valley wall, 211 00:15:24,858 --> 00:15:28,994 We could sense we were leaving the pleasant regions behind. 212 00:15:28,995 --> 00:15:30,829 It's beautiful up here, 213 00:15:30,830 --> 00:15:35,501 But we're entering a harsher world above 14,000 feet. 214 00:15:42,108 --> 00:15:44,109 [ screeching ] 215 00:15:46,446 --> 00:15:49,314 Kyungai: we have reached the cold and barren zone 216 00:15:49,315 --> 00:15:51,283 Of an alpine desert. 217 00:15:51,284 --> 00:15:55,654 We are halfway now, four days to the summit. 218 00:15:55,655 --> 00:15:59,458 I tell them, to avoid altitude sickness, 219 00:15:59,459 --> 00:16:03,295 We must go slowly and acclimatize 220 00:16:03,296 --> 00:16:06,065 To the decreasing levels of oxygen. 221 00:16:06,066 --> 00:16:09,401 Salkeld: thinking how I huffed and puffed up here, 222 00:16:09,402 --> 00:16:12,938 I'm a bit worried about how we're going to manage it. 223 00:16:12,939 --> 00:16:18,243 But I guess if we take our time, we'll be fine. 224 00:16:18,244 --> 00:16:21,080 I sincerely hope we all do make it up there. 225 00:16:21,081 --> 00:16:24,083 I'm longing to see the crater. 226 00:16:36,596 --> 00:16:40,933 Kyungai: the alpine desert is a battle zone for plants. 227 00:16:40,934 --> 00:16:44,403 During the day, mist soaks the soil. 228 00:16:44,404 --> 00:16:49,141 But overnight, the moisture freezes into tiny ice spears 229 00:16:49,142 --> 00:16:53,979 That shoot through the dirt, churning it up. 230 00:16:53,980 --> 00:16:58,984 It is hard to gain a foothold in such an unwelcoming home. 231 00:17:00,987 --> 00:17:06,158 And so we come to a mystery of kilimanjaro. 232 00:17:06,159 --> 00:17:11,163 There is little to eat on the high slopes. 233 00:17:11,164 --> 00:17:17,169 But a few animals come up here, and no one knows why. 234 00:17:17,170 --> 00:17:21,674 I know where an elephant died far up kilimanjaro. 235 00:17:24,444 --> 00:17:27,446 What made this elephant leave its herd 236 00:17:27,447 --> 00:17:32,451 And climb almost 15,000 feet up? 237 00:17:32,452 --> 00:17:35,554 And it is not only this elephant. 238 00:17:35,555 --> 00:17:39,825 I have seen the remains of antelope and a leopard 239 00:17:39,826 --> 00:17:44,163 That climbed all the way to the ice on the crater rim. 240 00:17:44,164 --> 00:17:48,334 Why would such animals climb so high? 241 00:17:48,335 --> 00:17:51,470 What were they looking for? 242 00:18:01,614 --> 00:18:08,420 The hardest moment walking was probably going downhill, 243 00:18:08,421 --> 00:18:11,423 And when I was going downhill, I wished I was going uphill, 244 00:18:11,424 --> 00:18:12,925 And when I was going uphill, 245 00:18:12,926 --> 00:18:14,927 I was wishing I was going downhill, 246 00:18:14,928 --> 00:18:20,432 So it got really confusing, and it was a -- it was a -- 247 00:18:20,433 --> 00:18:22,434 [ laughs ] 248 00:18:24,571 --> 00:18:28,407 I've been thinking that it's gonna be a very, 249 00:18:28,408 --> 00:18:32,911 Very tough, long journey to get to the top. 250 00:18:32,912 --> 00:18:36,615 Albertsen: lava tower is 300 feet high, 251 00:18:36,616 --> 00:18:39,084 And it's right on the trail. 252 00:18:39,085 --> 00:18:44,590 Roger wanted to study it. I wanted to climb it. 253 00:19:06,379 --> 00:19:09,415 Bilham: at the top of lava tower, 254 00:19:09,416 --> 00:19:10,883 Hansi and I talked about one 255 00:19:10,884 --> 00:19:14,720 Of the most extraordinary natural features of africa. 256 00:19:14,721 --> 00:19:16,989 The mountain we're sitting on exists 257 00:19:16,990 --> 00:19:19,091 Because of the great rift valley, 258 00:19:19,092 --> 00:19:22,061 A 4,000-mile-long crack in the earth's crust 259 00:19:22,062 --> 00:19:24,563 That is slowly separating east africa 260 00:19:24,564 --> 00:19:27,132 From the rest of the continent. 261 00:19:27,133 --> 00:19:30,069 We can't see the subterranean violence, 262 00:19:30,070 --> 00:19:32,404 But we can see the scar, 263 00:19:32,405 --> 00:19:37,743 Marked by clifflike escarpments walling these broad expanses. 264 00:19:39,646 --> 00:19:41,480 Where the valley floor has sunk, 265 00:19:41,481 --> 00:19:44,183 A chain of shadow lakes has formed, 266 00:19:44,184 --> 00:19:46,485 Many so poisoned by volcanic acids, 267 00:19:46,486 --> 00:19:48,754 They are nearly devoid of life. 268 00:19:48,755 --> 00:19:51,590 The violent forces beneath 269 00:19:51,591 --> 00:19:55,094 Have deeply altered the face of africa here, 270 00:19:55,095 --> 00:19:59,398 But they have also shaped a land of mesmerizing beauty. 271 00:20:19,953 --> 00:20:25,124 In some places, volcanoes have risen and remain active. 272 00:20:25,125 --> 00:20:27,459 Other volcanoes have collapsed 273 00:20:27,460 --> 00:20:31,130 To become freshwater havens for wildlife. 274 00:20:31,131 --> 00:20:33,632 [ birds squawking ] 275 00:20:49,783 --> 00:20:52,751 Long ago, as the valley floor moved, 276 00:20:52,752 --> 00:20:55,287 Molten rock beneath it was squeezed out at the sides 277 00:20:55,288 --> 00:20:58,424 And spewed to the surface, producing volcanoes 278 00:20:58,425 --> 00:21:02,761 That stand today at the far edges of the rift. 279 00:21:13,306 --> 00:21:15,941 The greatest of these volcanoes arose 280 00:21:15,942 --> 00:21:21,280 Along one branch of the rift valley about 360,000 years ago, 281 00:21:21,281 --> 00:21:23,115 A mountain so massive, 282 00:21:23,116 --> 00:21:26,785 Its weight depresses the earth's crust beneath it, 283 00:21:26,786 --> 00:21:29,288 A towering island of stone 284 00:21:29,289 --> 00:21:32,991 That would come to be called kilimanjaro, 285 00:21:32,992 --> 00:21:35,461 Meaning "mountain of greatness." 286 00:21:39,366 --> 00:21:42,534 Kyungai: at 16,000 feet, 287 00:21:42,535 --> 00:21:48,173 There is only half as much oxygen as at sea level. 288 00:21:48,174 --> 00:21:53,846 This barren world is the last outpost of life on kilimanjaro. 289 00:21:53,847 --> 00:21:58,183 Albertsen: we are at arrow camp, and we left great barranco, 290 00:21:58,184 --> 00:22:01,553 Which is completely different than this place. 291 00:22:01,554 --> 00:22:05,491 I feel like this is ghost land or something. 292 00:22:05,492 --> 00:22:10,129 It's abandoned. It's just filled with rocks and mist. 293 00:22:10,130 --> 00:22:12,331 I'm a little worried about the glaciers, 294 00:22:12,332 --> 00:22:14,199 That they might fall or something. 295 00:22:14,200 --> 00:22:18,871 But I just can't wait to get to the top and see, 296 00:22:18,872 --> 00:22:23,909 Like, an open area of white snow. 297 00:22:23,910 --> 00:22:27,212 Salkeld: I feel a little breathless, 298 00:22:27,213 --> 00:22:30,215 Having got to a higher altitude. 299 00:22:30,216 --> 00:22:33,052 And it was a bit sobering when we arrived 300 00:22:33,053 --> 00:22:38,223 To find that there's a memorial to a young man of 27 301 00:22:38,224 --> 00:22:41,727 Who died of altitude sickness in this camp. 302 00:22:43,630 --> 00:22:50,302 It brings home to you what altitude means, really. 303 00:22:50,303 --> 00:22:52,971 You can see the physical dangers on the mountain, 304 00:22:52,972 --> 00:22:58,310 But the scarceness of oxygen to breathe is invisible. 305 00:23:05,819 --> 00:23:09,321 Kyungai: the climb tomorrow is the biggest challenge, 306 00:23:09,322 --> 00:23:14,827 And it requires stamina and strength of heart. 307 00:23:14,828 --> 00:23:20,165 They won't know if they have it until they need it. 308 00:23:25,338 --> 00:23:30,843 Tonight, they think only of the test ahead. 309 00:23:30,844 --> 00:23:34,346 Mmm... 310 00:23:34,347 --> 00:23:37,716 So, I'm really scared, actually. 311 00:23:37,717 --> 00:23:42,187 I'm not sure if I'm going to make it up there. 312 00:23:54,567 --> 00:23:59,371 Kyungai: 3,000 feet above them is the edge of the crater. 313 00:23:59,372 --> 00:24:04,276 Today, they must push themselves up a sheer rock face 314 00:24:04,277 --> 00:24:05,844 For seven hours 315 00:24:05,845 --> 00:24:09,515 To reach the crater's rim and the wonders beyond. 316 00:24:13,386 --> 00:24:18,257 Salkeld: we set off this morning in chilly dawn -- 317 00:24:18,258 --> 00:24:20,893 Really very, very cold but clear 318 00:24:20,894 --> 00:24:24,063 With views as far as you could see. 319 00:24:24,064 --> 00:24:28,133 Wineland-thomson: at first, my feet got really cold. 320 00:24:28,134 --> 00:24:30,135 It was way below freezing. 321 00:24:30,136 --> 00:24:35,140 But I was determined to see the glaciers and the crater. 322 00:24:48,555 --> 00:24:52,257 Kyungai: up here, where the air is thin and cold, 323 00:24:52,258 --> 00:24:54,426 I tell them, "keep moving. 324 00:24:54,427 --> 00:24:58,931 One foot in front of the other, and you will make it." 325 00:24:58,932 --> 00:25:04,269 I stay close to the youngest and say in swahili, 326 00:25:04,270 --> 00:25:08,774 "polepole," "slowly, slowly." 327 00:25:08,775 --> 00:25:12,277 "just breathe and climb." 328 00:25:15,615 --> 00:25:21,787 I really got a hard time getting up here, and... 329 00:25:21,788 --> 00:25:24,289 [ sighs ] 330 00:25:24,290 --> 00:25:26,458 ...My legs are very tired. 331 00:25:26,459 --> 00:25:30,129 My legs are, like, just, like, finished, you know. 332 00:25:40,206 --> 00:25:43,142 Salkeld: it's very steep up here, 333 00:25:43,143 --> 00:25:45,844 And I've been getting increasingly breathless 334 00:25:45,845 --> 00:25:48,147 As we come up. 335 00:25:48,148 --> 00:25:50,315 I know there was a time halfway up 336 00:25:50,316 --> 00:25:53,986 When I wondered whether I would make it or not. 337 00:25:53,987 --> 00:25:56,522 And I certainly said to myself, 338 00:25:56,523 --> 00:25:59,158 "you're a silly old fool to be doing this 339 00:25:59,159 --> 00:26:03,529 When you could be sitting at home, all comfy and warm." 340 00:26:03,530 --> 00:26:06,665 But now we're nearly up to the crater, 341 00:26:06,666 --> 00:26:10,836 And there's tiny bits of blue sky showing through, 342 00:26:10,837 --> 00:26:16,342 And I think I'm in for a bit more of this yet. 343 00:26:29,356 --> 00:26:33,692 Kyungai: this is my greatest reward as a guide, 344 00:26:33,693 --> 00:26:37,029 To watch as they climb above the clouds 345 00:26:37,030 --> 00:26:40,532 And enter the realm of the crater, 346 00:26:40,533 --> 00:26:46,405 A place only a few people ever see. 347 00:26:46,406 --> 00:26:50,275 This is the moment they will never forget. 348 00:26:50,276 --> 00:26:53,679 They have done something remarkable. 349 00:26:53,680 --> 00:26:59,018 They have reached the snows of kilimanjaro. 350 00:27:20,907 --> 00:27:22,541 Wineland-thomson: it was beautiful, 351 00:27:22,542 --> 00:27:26,979 And it was like arriving from the amazon to the antarctic. 352 00:27:26,980 --> 00:27:31,250 It was amazing how fast it just happened, like, "boom." 353 00:27:33,319 --> 00:27:37,656 It was the hardest and steepest trail I've ever been on. 354 00:27:37,657 --> 00:27:40,826 I was so happy that we made it to the crater 355 00:27:40,827 --> 00:27:42,528 And that we made it together. 356 00:27:42,529 --> 00:27:45,164 I could hardly believe a kid like me 357 00:27:45,165 --> 00:27:48,500 Had made it to a place like this. 358 00:28:04,417 --> 00:28:07,419 Albertsen: while the others went to set up camp, 359 00:28:07,420 --> 00:28:11,290 Roger and I decided to explore the glaciers. 360 00:28:11,291 --> 00:28:14,927 Roger told me the first european explorers 361 00:28:14,928 --> 00:28:18,597 Who saw kilimanjaro 150 years ago 362 00:28:18,598 --> 00:28:21,767 Reported that they had seen a snow-covered mountain 363 00:28:21,768 --> 00:28:23,602 Near the equator. 364 00:28:23,603 --> 00:28:26,772 Nobody believed them. 365 00:28:26,773 --> 00:28:28,640 Bilham: the glaciers 366 00:28:28,641 --> 00:28:32,144 Are a great part of the mystique of kilimanjaro. 367 00:28:32,145 --> 00:28:33,612 The ice looks eternal, 368 00:28:33,613 --> 00:28:37,616 But it's the last stand of a process begun long ago. 369 00:28:39,786 --> 00:28:43,489 It's part of a timeless earth cycle, 370 00:28:43,490 --> 00:28:46,792 And it's astonishing and a bit sad to think 371 00:28:46,793 --> 00:28:49,128 That the glaciers we marvel at today 372 00:28:49,129 --> 00:28:52,698 Are only the smallest remnants of the massive ice cap 373 00:28:52,699 --> 00:28:56,635 That covered this mountain thousands of years ago. 374 00:28:59,072 --> 00:29:01,407 There's very little water on the ground here. 375 00:29:01,408 --> 00:29:05,411 That's because the glaciers aren't melting. 376 00:29:05,412 --> 00:29:08,080 They're disappearing into the atmosphere 377 00:29:08,081 --> 00:29:12,117 Because the solid ice is turning directly into vapor 378 00:29:12,118 --> 00:29:16,755 In a process known as sublimation. 379 00:29:16,756 --> 00:29:19,258 Albertsen: in such thin, dry air, 380 00:29:19,259 --> 00:29:20,959 This ice is completely exposed 381 00:29:20,960 --> 00:29:24,596 To the intense rays of the tropical sun. 382 00:29:24,597 --> 00:29:28,600 That, along with the sculpting force of wind, 383 00:29:28,601 --> 00:29:31,937 Creates fantastic shapes. 384 00:29:35,442 --> 00:29:37,443 Bilham: as I walked with heidi, 385 00:29:37,444 --> 00:29:40,779 We realized that we were both thinking the same thing, 386 00:29:40,780 --> 00:29:42,781 That this delicate fin of ice 387 00:29:42,782 --> 00:29:45,951 Would be different in a week's time. 388 00:29:50,457 --> 00:29:56,495 In fact, in less than 100 years, all this ice will be gone. 389 00:29:56,496 --> 00:29:58,630 But glaciers will inevitably reappear 390 00:29:58,631 --> 00:30:03,068 During the next ice age, many thousands of years from now. 391 00:30:11,277 --> 00:30:14,613 Since on the climb this morning he had hurt his knee.I, 392 00:30:14,614 --> 00:30:16,949 He was trying to be so brave. 393 00:30:16,950 --> 00:30:19,952 He didn't want to slow anyone down. 394 00:30:19,953 --> 00:30:21,920 [ cheers and applause ] 395 00:30:21,921 --> 00:30:26,258 Mmari: I was just very tired because the day was tough. 396 00:30:26,259 --> 00:30:29,094 So when I get to the camp and it was really hurting me -- 397 00:30:29,095 --> 00:30:30,496 I don't know why. 398 00:30:30,497 --> 00:30:32,331 Did you take something for it? 399 00:30:32,332 --> 00:30:34,933 Do you want something? I have something. 400 00:30:34,934 --> 00:30:36,435 Bilham: what's wrong, hans? 401 00:30:36,436 --> 00:30:37,603 My knee. 402 00:30:37,604 --> 00:30:39,271 Your knee, huh? 403 00:30:39,272 --> 00:30:41,440 Mmari: I was just walking in a lazy way, 404 00:30:41,441 --> 00:30:45,944 So I just twisted my knee in a funny way. 405 00:30:45,945 --> 00:30:47,780 Kyungai: we can only hope 406 00:30:47,781 --> 00:30:53,686 That hansi's knee and his spirits recover soon. 407 00:30:53,687 --> 00:30:58,257 We are camping at over 18,000 feet. 408 00:30:58,258 --> 00:31:01,093 We still have to climb to the summit, 409 00:31:01,094 --> 00:31:04,596 Which rises above the glaciers behind us. 410 00:31:04,597 --> 00:31:07,599 But first, roger wanted to understand 411 00:31:07,600 --> 00:31:10,602 The shape of this great crater, 412 00:31:10,603 --> 00:31:14,773 So I showed him the route we've taken up to its rim 413 00:31:14,774 --> 00:31:17,309 And the site of our camp, 414 00:31:17,310 --> 00:31:21,647 And I promised to take him more than a mile from camp 415 00:31:21,648 --> 00:31:27,619 To the inner crater and the great vent at its center. 416 00:31:30,890 --> 00:31:33,559 Bilham: early the next morning, 417 00:31:33,560 --> 00:31:38,330 Jacob and I set off across the vast expanse of the main crater. 418 00:31:41,201 --> 00:31:47,039 It was well below freezing, and we got very cold. 419 00:31:47,040 --> 00:31:52,578 In the distance, we could see the central volcanic vent. 420 00:31:52,579 --> 00:31:57,883 As we descended the steep wall of the inner crater, 421 00:31:57,884 --> 00:32:01,720 The central vent itself never seemed to get any closer. 422 00:32:04,090 --> 00:32:06,258 It was difficult to get an idea of scale 423 00:32:06,259 --> 00:32:08,394 Because there were no familiar objects 424 00:32:08,395 --> 00:32:10,596 To determine the size of the place. 425 00:32:10,597 --> 00:32:13,232 It was like walking on the moon. 426 00:32:20,407 --> 00:32:24,443 We finally reached the rim of the central vent 427 00:32:24,444 --> 00:32:28,714 And peered 300 or 400 feet down into its depths. 428 00:32:39,059 --> 00:32:42,361 Standing there, I felt very small, 429 00:32:42,362 --> 00:32:46,131 And I tried to imagine the fiery and tumultuous forces 430 00:32:46,132 --> 00:32:49,435 That had built this gigantic mountain of lava, 431 00:32:49,436 --> 00:32:53,272 All now beneath me. 432 00:32:53,273 --> 00:32:55,941 We were at the very core of the violence, 433 00:32:55,942 --> 00:32:58,977 Where molten rock blasted out for millennia 434 00:32:58,978 --> 00:33:01,613 And where just a few hundred years ago 435 00:33:01,614 --> 00:33:06,785 Kilimanjaro breathed its last breath as an active volcano. 436 00:33:13,159 --> 00:33:16,462 The inner crater surrounding the volcanic vent 437 00:33:16,463 --> 00:33:19,765 Was formed during kilimanjaro's last eruption 438 00:33:19,766 --> 00:33:22,968 And is one of the most perfectly symmetrical craters 439 00:33:22,969 --> 00:33:24,970 In the world. 440 00:33:36,950 --> 00:33:39,785 Mmari: I've been on this mountain for days. 441 00:33:39,786 --> 00:33:44,490 And I haven't bathed. I'm kind of smelly. 442 00:33:44,491 --> 00:33:49,294 And I think also the others haven't bathed. 443 00:33:49,295 --> 00:33:54,466 And I just want to get up there. I'll be happy. 444 00:33:54,467 --> 00:33:57,636 Kyungai: hansi seems just fine. 445 00:33:57,637 --> 00:34:00,973 But to be safe, I wrap his knee 446 00:34:00,974 --> 00:34:03,976 For the climb to the summit tomorrow. 447 00:34:09,082 --> 00:34:11,617 I rise at dawn on the day 448 00:34:11,618 --> 00:34:13,919 We will finally climb to the summit. 449 00:34:13,920 --> 00:34:16,755 I can see all the way down to the clouds 450 00:34:16,756 --> 00:34:22,428 Covering the warm forest where we started 14,000 feet below. 451 00:34:26,332 --> 00:34:28,367 For 30 years, 452 00:34:28,368 --> 00:34:32,204 I've enjoyed bringing people to this special place. 453 00:34:32,205 --> 00:34:37,176 I have climbed kilimanjaro more than 250 times, 454 00:34:37,177 --> 00:34:41,680 And I don't know how much longer I can keep guiding people here. 455 00:34:41,681 --> 00:34:45,718 But I do know that they will keep coming, 456 00:34:45,719 --> 00:34:49,355 Drawn by its power and its mystery. 457 00:34:55,228 --> 00:34:57,196 And like my new friends, 458 00:34:57,197 --> 00:35:00,232 They will find the strength and the spirit 459 00:35:00,233 --> 00:35:03,669 To make the summit they have dreamed of reaching. 460 00:35:03,670 --> 00:35:08,340 It is now only a few hundred feet away. 461 00:35:10,310 --> 00:35:11,977 Wineland-thomson: yeah, sometimes, 462 00:35:11,978 --> 00:35:13,645 I thought that I wouldn't make it. 463 00:35:13,646 --> 00:35:15,647 I thought it would be too hard. 464 00:35:18,785 --> 00:35:21,954 Oh, gosh, it's just beautiful. 465 00:35:21,955 --> 00:35:25,457 I'm thinking of how happy I am to be up here 466 00:35:25,458 --> 00:35:30,462 And that I'm here with my dad and that I made it. 467 00:35:34,134 --> 00:35:37,836 Salkeld: it was such a relief to know that we had all done it 468 00:35:37,837 --> 00:35:42,307 And here we all were on the roof of africa. 469 00:35:51,685 --> 00:35:56,321 Albertsen: at first, I thought, "maybe I'll make it." 470 00:35:56,322 --> 00:35:57,823 I didn't know. 471 00:35:57,824 --> 00:36:00,325 But now I know, and I'm a stronger person 472 00:36:00,326 --> 00:36:04,997 Than I was when I came, and I'm happy about that. 473 00:36:04,998 --> 00:36:09,168 Bilham: I'm extremely pleased to have experienced this firsthand. 474 00:36:09,169 --> 00:36:14,506 Kilimanjaro is a geological paradox. 475 00:36:14,507 --> 00:36:17,710 And it's a really thrilling feeling to be standing 476 00:36:17,711 --> 00:36:22,348 Where all this rock poured forth less than a million years ago. 477 00:36:27,020 --> 00:36:29,688 Salkeld: it's the first real mountain I've ever climbed, 478 00:36:29,689 --> 00:36:32,358 And I'm absolutely delighted to have done it. 479 00:36:32,359 --> 00:36:34,059 I can't believe I -- 480 00:36:34,060 --> 00:36:37,396 I don't really think I ever thought I would do it 481 00:36:37,397 --> 00:36:39,865 Until we did it. 482 00:36:46,172 --> 00:36:49,508 Mmari: when I reached the summit, I pulled out my radio. 483 00:36:49,509 --> 00:36:54,346 I told dad, "I'm at the summit of kilimanjaro, top of africa." 484 00:36:54,347 --> 00:36:56,682 After finishing that, I sat somewhere, 485 00:36:56,683 --> 00:36:59,084 Thinking about going down, 486 00:36:59,085 --> 00:37:04,390 Seeing my small sister, my dad, my mom, 487 00:37:04,391 --> 00:37:07,192 Having a bath, 488 00:37:07,193 --> 00:37:12,398 Having some hamburgers, pizzas, yeah. 489 00:37:12,399 --> 00:37:14,533 Mmm! 490 00:37:18,038 --> 00:37:23,676 Kyungai: kilimanjaro is a place where ordinary people come 491 00:37:23,677 --> 00:37:31,083 To do something extraordinary, to leave their daily lives 492 00:37:31,084 --> 00:37:36,055 And stand in a place between heaven and earth... 493 00:37:38,925 --> 00:37:44,229 ...A magical place in the africa of their dreams. 494 00:37:44,230 --> 00:37:47,232 [ mid-tempo music plays ] 48482

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