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00:00:06,439 --> 00:00:09,408
[ insects chirping ]
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00:00:14,247 --> 00:00:16,749
[ mid-tempo music plays ]
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00:00:20,420 --> 00:00:24,790
Kyungai: this is the land
of our earliest ancestors,
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00:00:24,791 --> 00:00:30,129
Where the wild earth of long ago
lives on -- east africa.
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00:00:30,130 --> 00:00:32,598
[ elephants trumpeting ]
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00:00:42,308 --> 00:00:44,443
Beyond the abundant life
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00:00:44,444 --> 00:00:47,946
That flows across
these endless grasslands
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00:00:47,947 --> 00:00:52,818
There is one great landmark
of beauty and mystery
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00:00:52,819 --> 00:00:55,487
Revered like no other.
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00:00:55,488 --> 00:00:57,456
[ birds chirping ]
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00:00:59,626 --> 00:01:03,962
From the heart of africa,
it looms above the clouds,
12
00:01:03,963 --> 00:01:10,336
A solitary giant, the largest
freestanding mountain on earth.
13
00:01:10,337 --> 00:01:13,806
It is a mountain
of strange wonders,
14
00:01:13,807 --> 00:01:19,311
A place created in fire
and crowned by ice.
15
00:01:36,329 --> 00:01:39,832
It is a source
of ancient fascination,
16
00:01:39,833 --> 00:01:44,003
A snowcapped volcano
at the equator.
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00:01:46,506 --> 00:01:51,043
People come from every land
to see for themselves this,
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00:01:51,044 --> 00:01:54,013
The highest mountain
in all africa,
19
00:01:54,014 --> 00:02:00,185
And maybe even to climb
to the snows of kilimanjaro.
20
00:02:03,523 --> 00:02:06,892
I have spent a lifetime
climbing this mountain.
21
00:02:06,893 --> 00:02:10,362
I was born here.
22
00:02:10,363 --> 00:02:13,699
My name is jacob kyungai.
23
00:02:13,700 --> 00:02:18,037
I am a mountain guide.
24
00:02:18,038 --> 00:02:20,873
I tell each traveler
who comes here,
25
00:02:20,874 --> 00:02:23,542
To learn the secrets
of kilimanjaro,
26
00:02:23,543 --> 00:02:28,047
We must begin
beneath the clouds,
27
00:02:28,048 --> 00:02:33,552
Not in snow, but in mud.
28
00:02:33,553 --> 00:02:36,555
[ bird chirping ]
29
00:02:36,556 --> 00:02:41,293
Each group I guide
is different and the same.
30
00:02:41,294 --> 00:02:44,496
People of every age
and origin --
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00:02:44,497 --> 00:02:46,632
Ordinary people, mostly,
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00:02:46,633 --> 00:02:51,303
But all drawn
to the magic of this place.
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00:02:54,307 --> 00:02:56,809
In this group, there's roger,
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00:02:56,810 --> 00:03:01,647
A scientist who understands
how this mountain was made.
35
00:03:01,648 --> 00:03:04,149
Bilham: kilimanjaro
is the largest volcano
36
00:03:04,150 --> 00:03:05,651
On any continent.
37
00:03:05,652 --> 00:03:10,022
It is a tremendous attraction
for a geophysicist like me.
38
00:03:10,023 --> 00:03:11,657
It's difficult to imagine,
39
00:03:11,658 --> 00:03:15,027
Now that I'm here in the middle
of this incredibly lush forest,
40
00:03:15,028 --> 00:03:17,663
That actually
I am sitting on the volcano,
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00:03:17,664 --> 00:03:22,001
That there's a half a mile
of volcanic rock beneath me.
42
00:03:24,170 --> 00:03:26,171
Kyungai:
and there's audrey,
43
00:03:26,172 --> 00:03:29,541
A writer who has read
about kilimanjaro for years
44
00:03:29,542 --> 00:03:33,679
And has finally come
to see it for herself.
45
00:03:33,680 --> 00:03:37,383
Salkeld: all my life, really,
I've written about mountains,
46
00:03:37,384 --> 00:03:40,886
But rarely do I ever
get to the top of mountains.
47
00:03:40,887 --> 00:03:44,189
And so it's hard
for me to imagine myself
48
00:03:44,190 --> 00:03:48,527
On the top of this one,
but I can dream.
49
00:03:50,463 --> 00:03:55,467
Kyungai: some come to see
if they can reach the summit,
50
00:03:55,468 --> 00:03:59,238
Some to explore a curious world,
51
00:03:59,239 --> 00:04:04,943
And some, like heidi, come
to learn if the real kilimanjaro
52
00:04:04,944 --> 00:04:08,247
Matches the mountain
of their imagination.
53
00:04:08,248 --> 00:04:11,583
Albertsen: I've dreamed of
coming here since I was a child,
54
00:04:11,584 --> 00:04:14,319
Hiking in the alps,
pretending I was in africa.
55
00:04:14,320 --> 00:04:17,322
I can't believe
I'm actually here.
56
00:04:17,323 --> 00:04:21,326
I almost feel
like I'm in a dreamworld.
57
00:04:21,327 --> 00:04:23,829
I asked somebody earlier
to pinch my arm
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00:04:23,830 --> 00:04:26,198
Because, like,
you're, like, going like this.
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00:04:26,199 --> 00:04:31,103
It's unreal.
It really, really is beautiful.
60
00:04:35,608 --> 00:04:39,111
Kyungai: mostly,
I guide people from far away.
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00:04:39,112 --> 00:04:40,479
But this time,
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00:04:40,480 --> 00:04:44,950
The son of a good friend
here in tanzania has come along.
63
00:04:44,951 --> 00:04:49,121
Hansi wants to learn
about the towering mountain
64
00:04:49,122 --> 00:04:51,123
He sees from his backyard.
65
00:04:51,124 --> 00:04:52,624
Mmari:
I want to climb kilimanjaro
66
00:04:52,625 --> 00:04:58,464
Because I want my family
to be proud of me and...
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00:04:58,465 --> 00:05:00,799
[ clears throat ]
68
00:05:00,800 --> 00:05:05,571
And I think I can make it
because I'm strong, you know.
69
00:05:08,108 --> 00:05:11,477
Kyungai: few 12-year-olds
have made this climb,
70
00:05:11,478 --> 00:05:14,113
But nicole
made her father promise
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00:05:14,114 --> 00:05:18,450
To show her the great mountain
he had climbed.
72
00:05:18,451 --> 00:05:20,452
Wineland-thomson:
today has been really hard,
73
00:05:20,453 --> 00:05:23,622
Going uphill in mud
for eight hours.
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00:05:23,623 --> 00:05:26,291
Everybody's
been telling me that, like,
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00:05:26,292 --> 00:05:27,960
"you're doing a great job.
76
00:05:27,961 --> 00:05:31,330
Just keep on going.
You'll make it to the top."
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00:05:31,331 --> 00:05:34,633
I hope so, because I've always
wanted to see what's up there,
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00:05:34,634 --> 00:05:38,971
Especially the glaciers, ever
since my dad told me about them.
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00:05:38,972 --> 00:05:42,141
Kyungai: the climb ahead
is long and demanding.
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00:05:42,142 --> 00:05:46,845
In the coming days,
we will hike more than 45 miles
81
00:05:46,846 --> 00:05:51,917
And climb to over 19,000 feet.
82
00:05:51,918 --> 00:05:54,286
From here,
the route to the summit
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00:05:54,287 --> 00:05:56,755
Passes through
many different worlds.
84
00:05:56,756 --> 00:05:58,757
We began far below,
85
00:05:58,758 --> 00:06:02,928
In the humid rainforest
that encircles the mountain.
86
00:06:02,929 --> 00:06:06,598
We will reach the unusual trees
of the heath zone,
87
00:06:06,599 --> 00:06:10,302
Then grassy moorland and,
above that,
88
00:06:10,303 --> 00:06:12,938
Increasingly harsh conditions.
89
00:06:12,939 --> 00:06:16,942
There is an alpine desert
above 15,000 feet.
90
00:06:16,943 --> 00:06:19,778
Higher up,
just below the mountaintop,
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00:06:19,779 --> 00:06:24,817
We will enter the arctic region,
windswept and bitter cold.
92
00:06:24,818 --> 00:06:28,987
It is like walking from
the equator to the north pole
93
00:06:28,988 --> 00:06:31,857
In only a week.
94
00:06:33,927 --> 00:06:37,930
Now, at 10,000 feet,
we can see mount meru,
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00:06:37,931 --> 00:06:41,600
Kilimanjaro's
smaller sister volcano,
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00:06:41,601 --> 00:06:47,573
As darkness ends our first day
on the mountain.
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00:06:52,812 --> 00:06:57,483
Bilham: kilimanjaro is such
a vast and broad mountain
98
00:06:57,484 --> 00:07:01,487
That it's hard to tell how big
it is when you're on its slopes.
99
00:07:03,823 --> 00:07:05,991
You're such a tiny part
of the mountain,
100
00:07:05,992 --> 00:07:09,661
But you begin to get a sense
of its immensity at every step,
101
00:07:09,662 --> 00:07:14,667
As the mountain
slowly reveals itself.
102
00:07:14,668 --> 00:07:17,002
And you begin to notice things
103
00:07:17,003 --> 00:07:20,005
You could not
have imagined from afar.
104
00:07:24,744 --> 00:07:27,379
Salkeld:
above 10,000 feet,
105
00:07:27,380 --> 00:07:31,350
We entered the heath zone,
a kingdom of shrubs.
106
00:07:31,351 --> 00:07:35,521
But even here,
there are splashes of color,
107
00:07:35,522 --> 00:07:38,891
Like the red-hot poker.
108
00:07:38,892 --> 00:07:41,727
They may appear fragile,
109
00:07:41,728 --> 00:07:44,163
But they're exposed
to rugged extremes,
110
00:07:44,164 --> 00:07:46,398
And they're tougher
than they look.
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00:07:56,910 --> 00:07:59,078
Bilham:
I wonder what early man
112
00:07:59,079 --> 00:08:02,081
Thought
of this colossal volcano.
113
00:08:02,082 --> 00:08:04,249
During the past
half-million years,
114
00:08:04,250 --> 00:08:07,753
Our ancestors
would have watched its birth.
115
00:08:07,754 --> 00:08:10,255
Scorching rivers of lava
poured down these slopes,
116
00:08:10,256 --> 00:08:13,425
And eruptions
lit up the night sky.
117
00:08:13,426 --> 00:08:17,763
Later people saw the great
mountain grow quiet and dormant,
118
00:08:17,764 --> 00:08:19,999
As it is now.
119
00:08:20,000 --> 00:08:23,335
Perhaps they, too,
were drawn upwards
120
00:08:23,336 --> 00:08:26,672
To touch the icy glaciers
that advanced and retreated
121
00:08:26,673 --> 00:08:29,842
Across its huge summit.
122
00:08:29,843 --> 00:08:33,178
In recent times, the top was an
impenetrable shield of ice that,
123
00:08:33,179 --> 00:08:35,514
As far as we know,
was unconquered
124
00:08:35,515 --> 00:08:39,852
Until a climber
stood on its summit in 1889.
125
00:08:45,592 --> 00:08:47,926
Kyungai:
there is an endless rhythm
126
00:08:47,927 --> 00:08:50,596
To the coming of the mists
each morning
127
00:08:50,597 --> 00:08:54,600
And their disappearance
each afternoon.
128
00:08:54,601 --> 00:08:59,571
They bring enough moisture that
exotic plants can thrive here
129
00:08:59,572 --> 00:09:03,842
In dry conditions that
would wither them elsewhere.
130
00:09:07,013 --> 00:09:09,014
Albertsen:
the mist rolling in quickly
131
00:09:09,015 --> 00:09:10,849
Changes the mood around us.
132
00:09:10,850 --> 00:09:15,521
It shuts out the world, and
it feels lonely and mysterious,
133
00:09:15,522 --> 00:09:19,358
As if kilimanjaro
is hiding its face.
134
00:09:22,228 --> 00:09:24,396
As I climb with hansi and roger,
135
00:09:24,397 --> 00:09:28,400
It seems like we are traveling
on another planet.
136
00:09:30,737 --> 00:09:33,238
Everything is
on a different scale.
137
00:09:33,239 --> 00:09:34,907
We have heather in europe.
138
00:09:34,908 --> 00:09:38,077
You can pick it, and
you can hold it in your hand.
139
00:09:38,078 --> 00:09:42,314
Here, it's giant
and over 30 feet high.
140
00:09:59,232 --> 00:10:02,167
Kyungai:
3,000 feet higher,
141
00:10:02,168 --> 00:10:04,837
The air grows drier
and colder still,
142
00:10:04,838 --> 00:10:08,374
And the landscape
is transformed.
143
00:10:08,375 --> 00:10:15,214
But here, I like to take people
to a place off the main trail,
144
00:10:15,215 --> 00:10:16,882
Where melting snow
145
00:10:16,883 --> 00:10:22,054
Feeds a special hidden valley
full of life.
146
00:10:25,558 --> 00:10:28,560
Salkeld:
this is a most beautiful place,
147
00:10:28,561 --> 00:10:30,763
And it comes
as something as a surprise
148
00:10:30,764 --> 00:10:33,599
Because, suddenly,
you drop into this valley,
149
00:10:33,600 --> 00:10:37,403
Which is walled in by mountains.
150
00:10:37,404 --> 00:10:43,142
And best of all, it's walled in
by kilimanjaro's summit itself.
151
00:10:43,143 --> 00:10:44,977
[ hammer banging ]
152
00:10:44,978 --> 00:10:48,447
We're at about 13,000 feet here,
153
00:10:48,448 --> 00:10:52,818
Which is quite high for such
a proliferation of plants,
154
00:10:52,819 --> 00:10:55,954
And they're probably going to be
the last ones we see,
155
00:10:55,955 --> 00:10:59,625
Because higher up
it will get increasingly barren.
156
00:11:04,764 --> 00:11:07,566
It is a wonderful place.
157
00:11:07,567 --> 00:11:10,602
All sorts of little streams
and gullies go off,
158
00:11:10,603 --> 00:11:13,739
And you hear waterfalls.
159
00:11:13,740 --> 00:11:16,742
And the plants
are absolutely fantastic.
160
00:11:16,743 --> 00:11:20,245
Weirdest of all
are the giant groundsels,
161
00:11:20,246 --> 00:11:25,084
Like great candelabras
with pompons on top.
162
00:11:32,125 --> 00:11:34,593
Nicole and I went
to a little groundsel forest
163
00:11:34,594 --> 00:11:36,929
On the other side
of this valley,
164
00:11:36,930 --> 00:11:39,098
Which was pure heaven, really.
165
00:11:39,099 --> 00:11:40,933
Wineland-thomson:
it was beautiful,
166
00:11:40,934 --> 00:11:43,936
And it sort of felt
like I was in dr. Seuss land
167
00:11:43,937 --> 00:11:48,941
Because, like,
the trees are so unfamiliar.
168
00:11:52,512 --> 00:11:55,514
Jacob told me
that some of these plants
169
00:11:55,515 --> 00:11:57,349
Are more than 100 years old.
170
00:11:57,350 --> 00:11:59,351
They survive that long
171
00:11:59,352 --> 00:12:02,688
Because they can shield
themselves from the cold.
172
00:12:02,689 --> 00:12:06,025
When their long, green leaves
die, they don't fall off.
173
00:12:06,026 --> 00:12:09,561
Instead, they wrap themselves
around the branch,
174
00:12:09,562 --> 00:12:12,865
Insulating the plant
like a layer of fur.
175
00:12:27,414 --> 00:12:29,381
Because I've never
seen them before.
176
00:12:29,382 --> 00:12:34,353
Like the snow up there --
never seen snow with my eyes.
177
00:12:34,354 --> 00:12:37,856
Just snow --
I've never seen it before.
178
00:12:37,857 --> 00:12:40,025
Stepping on it,
I've never tried.
179
00:12:40,026 --> 00:12:45,497
I've never even stepped on snow.
It's going to be my first time.
180
00:12:45,498 --> 00:12:47,933
It's really great, you know.
181
00:12:50,036 --> 00:12:53,505
Bilham:
up here at 13,000 feet,
182
00:12:53,506 --> 00:12:58,510
The intensity of the equatorial
sun makes it summer every day,
183
00:12:58,511 --> 00:13:00,346
Nurturing the plants.
184
00:13:00,347 --> 00:13:03,882
But every night, it turns
to winter and freezes solid,
185
00:13:03,883 --> 00:13:07,920
Only to melt
in the next day's sun.
186
00:13:07,921 --> 00:13:10,055
In these extremes,
187
00:13:10,056 --> 00:13:13,058
Plants have invented
ingenious tricks to survive...
188
00:13:15,128 --> 00:13:18,297
...None more clever
than the lobelia,
189
00:13:18,298 --> 00:13:24,970
Which wraps itself up to ward
off the night's biting frost...
190
00:13:24,971 --> 00:13:26,972
Then unfolds the next morning
191
00:13:26,973 --> 00:13:30,476
To absorb the warmth
of the rising sun.
192
00:13:44,157 --> 00:13:48,994
Albertsen: how can we understand
the natural world like this?
193
00:13:48,995 --> 00:13:53,499
To succeed up here, near what
feels like on top of the world,
194
00:13:53,500 --> 00:13:57,836
You, your body, has to change
just like the plants.
195
00:13:59,939 --> 00:14:02,908
The thin air
is what gets to you.
196
00:14:02,909 --> 00:14:04,410
I don't know.
197
00:14:04,411 --> 00:14:07,079
I think you can be
the healthiest person on earth,
198
00:14:07,080 --> 00:14:10,582
But you might not be able
to make this mountain.
199
00:14:23,196 --> 00:14:26,865
Kyungai: for most
who try to climb kilimanjaro,
200
00:14:26,866 --> 00:14:29,201
It is the journey of a lifetime,
201
00:14:29,202 --> 00:14:34,073
But only half who begin the trip
make it to the summit.
202
00:14:34,074 --> 00:14:36,375
The great height of the mountain
203
00:14:36,376 --> 00:14:41,046
And the thin air
force many to turn back.
204
00:14:41,047 --> 00:14:45,050
Up here, you have to
pay attention to your body.
205
00:14:45,051 --> 00:14:48,721
I make sure
everyone is eating well.
206
00:14:48,722 --> 00:14:51,757
My role is to watch out
for their safety
207
00:14:51,758 --> 00:14:54,493
In a world unfamiliar to them.
208
00:14:54,494 --> 00:15:00,332
Nicole has her father, rick,
along to look out for her.
209
00:15:03,169 --> 00:15:07,172
The real challenges
are just beginning.
210
00:15:22,822 --> 00:15:24,857
Bilham:
climbing up the valley wall,
211
00:15:24,858 --> 00:15:28,994
We could sense we were leaving
the pleasant regions behind.
212
00:15:28,995 --> 00:15:30,829
It's beautiful up here,
213
00:15:30,830 --> 00:15:35,501
But we're entering a harsher
world above 14,000 feet.
214
00:15:42,108 --> 00:15:44,109
[ screeching ]
215
00:15:46,446 --> 00:15:49,314
Kyungai: we have reached
the cold and barren zone
216
00:15:49,315 --> 00:15:51,283
Of an alpine desert.
217
00:15:51,284 --> 00:15:55,654
We are halfway now,
four days to the summit.
218
00:15:55,655 --> 00:15:59,458
I tell them,
to avoid altitude sickness,
219
00:15:59,459 --> 00:16:03,295
We must go slowly
and acclimatize
220
00:16:03,296 --> 00:16:06,065
To the decreasing levels
of oxygen.
221
00:16:06,066 --> 00:16:09,401
Salkeld: thinking how I huffed
and puffed up here,
222
00:16:09,402 --> 00:16:12,938
I'm a bit worried about
how we're going to manage it.
223
00:16:12,939 --> 00:16:18,243
But I guess if we take our time,
we'll be fine.
224
00:16:18,244 --> 00:16:21,080
I sincerely hope
we all do make it up there.
225
00:16:21,081 --> 00:16:24,083
I'm longing to see the crater.
226
00:16:36,596 --> 00:16:40,933
Kyungai: the alpine desert
is a battle zone for plants.
227
00:16:40,934 --> 00:16:44,403
During the day,
mist soaks the soil.
228
00:16:44,404 --> 00:16:49,141
But overnight, the moisture
freezes into tiny ice spears
229
00:16:49,142 --> 00:16:53,979
That shoot through the dirt,
churning it up.
230
00:16:53,980 --> 00:16:58,984
It is hard to gain a foothold
in such an unwelcoming home.
231
00:17:00,987 --> 00:17:06,158
And so we come
to a mystery of kilimanjaro.
232
00:17:06,159 --> 00:17:11,163
There is little to eat
on the high slopes.
233
00:17:11,164 --> 00:17:17,169
But a few animals come up here,
and no one knows why.
234
00:17:17,170 --> 00:17:21,674
I know where an elephant died
far up kilimanjaro.
235
00:17:24,444 --> 00:17:27,446
What made this elephant
leave its herd
236
00:17:27,447 --> 00:17:32,451
And climb almost 15,000 feet up?
237
00:17:32,452 --> 00:17:35,554
And it is not
only this elephant.
238
00:17:35,555 --> 00:17:39,825
I have seen the remains
of antelope and a leopard
239
00:17:39,826 --> 00:17:44,163
That climbed all the way
to the ice on the crater rim.
240
00:17:44,164 --> 00:17:48,334
Why would such animals
climb so high?
241
00:17:48,335 --> 00:17:51,470
What were they looking for?
242
00:18:01,614 --> 00:18:08,420
The hardest moment walking
was probably going downhill,
243
00:18:08,421 --> 00:18:11,423
And when I was going downhill,
I wished I was going uphill,
244
00:18:11,424 --> 00:18:12,925
And when I was going uphill,
245
00:18:12,926 --> 00:18:14,927
I was wishing
I was going downhill,
246
00:18:14,928 --> 00:18:20,432
So it got really confusing,
and it was a -- it was a --
247
00:18:20,433 --> 00:18:22,434
[ laughs ]
248
00:18:24,571 --> 00:18:28,407
I've been thinking
that it's gonna be a very,
249
00:18:28,408 --> 00:18:32,911
Very tough,
long journey to get to the top.
250
00:18:32,912 --> 00:18:36,615
Albertsen:
lava tower is 300 feet high,
251
00:18:36,616 --> 00:18:39,084
And it's right on the trail.
252
00:18:39,085 --> 00:18:44,590
Roger wanted to study it.
I wanted to climb it.
253
00:19:06,379 --> 00:19:09,415
Bilham:
at the top of lava tower,
254
00:19:09,416 --> 00:19:10,883
Hansi and I talked about one
255
00:19:10,884 --> 00:19:14,720
Of the most extraordinary
natural features of africa.
256
00:19:14,721 --> 00:19:16,989
The mountain
we're sitting on exists
257
00:19:16,990 --> 00:19:19,091
Because
of the great rift valley,
258
00:19:19,092 --> 00:19:22,061
A 4,000-mile-long crack
in the earth's crust
259
00:19:22,062 --> 00:19:24,563
That is slowly
separating east africa
260
00:19:24,564 --> 00:19:27,132
From the rest of the continent.
261
00:19:27,133 --> 00:19:30,069
We can't see
the subterranean violence,
262
00:19:30,070 --> 00:19:32,404
But we can see the scar,
263
00:19:32,405 --> 00:19:37,743
Marked by clifflike escarpments
walling these broad expanses.
264
00:19:39,646 --> 00:19:41,480
Where the valley floor has sunk,
265
00:19:41,481 --> 00:19:44,183
A chain of shadow lakes
has formed,
266
00:19:44,184 --> 00:19:46,485
Many so poisoned
by volcanic acids,
267
00:19:46,486 --> 00:19:48,754
They are nearly devoid of life.
268
00:19:48,755 --> 00:19:51,590
The violent forces beneath
269
00:19:51,591 --> 00:19:55,094
Have deeply altered
the face of africa here,
270
00:19:55,095 --> 00:19:59,398
But they have also shaped
a land of mesmerizing beauty.
271
00:20:19,953 --> 00:20:25,124
In some places, volcanoes
have risen and remain active.
272
00:20:25,125 --> 00:20:27,459
Other volcanoes have collapsed
273
00:20:27,460 --> 00:20:31,130
To become freshwater havens
for wildlife.
274
00:20:31,131 --> 00:20:33,632
[ birds squawking ]
275
00:20:49,783 --> 00:20:52,751
Long ago,
as the valley floor moved,
276
00:20:52,752 --> 00:20:55,287
Molten rock beneath it
was squeezed out at the sides
277
00:20:55,288 --> 00:20:58,424
And spewed to the surface,
producing volcanoes
278
00:20:58,425 --> 00:21:02,761
That stand today
at the far edges of the rift.
279
00:21:13,306 --> 00:21:15,941
The greatest
of these volcanoes arose
280
00:21:15,942 --> 00:21:21,280
Along one branch of the rift
valley about 360,000 years ago,
281
00:21:21,281 --> 00:21:23,115
A mountain so massive,
282
00:21:23,116 --> 00:21:26,785
Its weight depresses
the earth's crust beneath it,
283
00:21:26,786 --> 00:21:29,288
A towering island of stone
284
00:21:29,289 --> 00:21:32,991
That would come
to be called kilimanjaro,
285
00:21:32,992 --> 00:21:35,461
Meaning "mountain of greatness."
286
00:21:39,366 --> 00:21:42,534
Kyungai:
at 16,000 feet,
287
00:21:42,535 --> 00:21:48,173
There is only half
as much oxygen as at sea level.
288
00:21:48,174 --> 00:21:53,846
This barren world is the last
outpost of life on kilimanjaro.
289
00:21:53,847 --> 00:21:58,183
Albertsen: we are at arrow camp,
and we left great barranco,
290
00:21:58,184 --> 00:22:01,553
Which is completely different
than this place.
291
00:22:01,554 --> 00:22:05,491
I feel like this is ghost land
or something.
292
00:22:05,492 --> 00:22:10,129
It's abandoned. It's just filled
with rocks and mist.
293
00:22:10,130 --> 00:22:12,331
I'm a little worried
about the glaciers,
294
00:22:12,332 --> 00:22:14,199
That they might fall
or something.
295
00:22:14,200 --> 00:22:18,871
But I just can't wait
to get to the top and see,
296
00:22:18,872 --> 00:22:23,909
Like, an open area
of white snow.
297
00:22:23,910 --> 00:22:27,212
Salkeld:
I feel a little breathless,
298
00:22:27,213 --> 00:22:30,215
Having got to a higher altitude.
299
00:22:30,216 --> 00:22:33,052
And it was a bit sobering
when we arrived
300
00:22:33,053 --> 00:22:38,223
To find that there's a memorial
to a young man of 27
301
00:22:38,224 --> 00:22:41,727
Who died of altitude sickness
in this camp.
302
00:22:43,630 --> 00:22:50,302
It brings home to you
what altitude means, really.
303
00:22:50,303 --> 00:22:52,971
You can see the physical dangers
on the mountain,
304
00:22:52,972 --> 00:22:58,310
But the scarceness of oxygen
to breathe is invisible.
305
00:23:05,819 --> 00:23:09,321
Kyungai: the climb tomorrow
is the biggest challenge,
306
00:23:09,322 --> 00:23:14,827
And it requires stamina
and strength of heart.
307
00:23:14,828 --> 00:23:20,165
They won't know if they have it
until they need it.
308
00:23:25,338 --> 00:23:30,843
Tonight, they think
only of the test ahead.
309
00:23:30,844 --> 00:23:34,346
Mmm...
310
00:23:34,347 --> 00:23:37,716
So, I'm really scared,
actually.
311
00:23:37,717 --> 00:23:42,187
I'm not sure if I'm going to
make it up there.
312
00:23:54,567 --> 00:23:59,371
Kyungai: 3,000 feet above them
is the edge of the crater.
313
00:23:59,372 --> 00:24:04,276
Today, they must push themselves
up a sheer rock face
314
00:24:04,277 --> 00:24:05,844
For seven hours
315
00:24:05,845 --> 00:24:09,515
To reach the crater's rim
and the wonders beyond.
316
00:24:13,386 --> 00:24:18,257
Salkeld: we set off this morning
in chilly dawn --
317
00:24:18,258 --> 00:24:20,893
Really very, very cold but clear
318
00:24:20,894 --> 00:24:24,063
With views
as far as you could see.
319
00:24:24,064 --> 00:24:28,133
Wineland-thomson: at first,
my feet got really cold.
320
00:24:28,134 --> 00:24:30,135
It was way below freezing.
321
00:24:30,136 --> 00:24:35,140
But I was determined to see
the glaciers and the crater.
322
00:24:48,555 --> 00:24:52,257
Kyungai: up here,
where the air is thin and cold,
323
00:24:52,258 --> 00:24:54,426
I tell them, "keep moving.
324
00:24:54,427 --> 00:24:58,931
One foot in front of the other,
and you will make it."
325
00:24:58,932 --> 00:25:04,269
I stay close to the youngest
and say in swahili,
326
00:25:04,270 --> 00:25:08,774
"polepole," "slowly, slowly."
327
00:25:08,775 --> 00:25:12,277
"just breathe and climb."
328
00:25:15,615 --> 00:25:21,787
I really got a hard time
getting up here, and...
329
00:25:21,788 --> 00:25:24,289
[ sighs ]
330
00:25:24,290 --> 00:25:26,458
...My legs are very tired.
331
00:25:26,459 --> 00:25:30,129
My legs are, like,
just, like, finished, you know.
332
00:25:40,206 --> 00:25:43,142
Salkeld:
it's very steep up here,
333
00:25:43,143 --> 00:25:45,844
And I've been getting
increasingly breathless
334
00:25:45,845 --> 00:25:48,147
As we come up.
335
00:25:48,148 --> 00:25:50,315
I know there was a time
halfway up
336
00:25:50,316 --> 00:25:53,986
When I wondered
whether I would make it or not.
337
00:25:53,987 --> 00:25:56,522
And I certainly said to myself,
338
00:25:56,523 --> 00:25:59,158
"you're a silly old fool
to be doing this
339
00:25:59,159 --> 00:26:03,529
When you could be sitting
at home, all comfy and warm."
340
00:26:03,530 --> 00:26:06,665
But now we're nearly
up to the crater,
341
00:26:06,666 --> 00:26:10,836
And there's tiny bits
of blue sky showing through,
342
00:26:10,837 --> 00:26:16,342
And I think I'm in
for a bit more of this yet.
343
00:26:29,356 --> 00:26:33,692
Kyungai: this is my greatest
reward as a guide,
344
00:26:33,693 --> 00:26:37,029
To watch as they climb
above the clouds
345
00:26:37,030 --> 00:26:40,532
And enter the realm
of the crater,
346
00:26:40,533 --> 00:26:46,405
A place
only a few people ever see.
347
00:26:46,406 --> 00:26:50,275
This is the moment
they will never forget.
348
00:26:50,276 --> 00:26:53,679
They have done
something remarkable.
349
00:26:53,680 --> 00:26:59,018
They have reached
the snows of kilimanjaro.
350
00:27:20,907 --> 00:27:22,541
Wineland-thomson:
it was beautiful,
351
00:27:22,542 --> 00:27:26,979
And it was like arriving from
the amazon to the antarctic.
352
00:27:26,980 --> 00:27:31,250
It was amazing how fast
it just happened, like, "boom."
353
00:27:33,319 --> 00:27:37,656
It was the hardest and steepest
trail I've ever been on.
354
00:27:37,657 --> 00:27:40,826
I was so happy
that we made it to the crater
355
00:27:40,827 --> 00:27:42,528
And that we made it together.
356
00:27:42,529 --> 00:27:45,164
I could hardly believe
a kid like me
357
00:27:45,165 --> 00:27:48,500
Had made it
to a place like this.
358
00:28:04,417 --> 00:28:07,419
Albertsen: while the others
went to set up camp,
359
00:28:07,420 --> 00:28:11,290
Roger and I decided
to explore the glaciers.
360
00:28:11,291 --> 00:28:14,927
Roger told me
the first european explorers
361
00:28:14,928 --> 00:28:18,597
Who saw kilimanjaro
150 years ago
362
00:28:18,598 --> 00:28:21,767
Reported that they had seen
a snow-covered mountain
363
00:28:21,768 --> 00:28:23,602
Near the equator.
364
00:28:23,603 --> 00:28:26,772
Nobody believed them.
365
00:28:26,773 --> 00:28:28,640
Bilham:
the glaciers
366
00:28:28,641 --> 00:28:32,144
Are a great part
of the mystique of kilimanjaro.
367
00:28:32,145 --> 00:28:33,612
The ice looks eternal,
368
00:28:33,613 --> 00:28:37,616
But it's the last stand
of a process begun long ago.
369
00:28:39,786 --> 00:28:43,489
It's part
of a timeless earth cycle,
370
00:28:43,490 --> 00:28:46,792
And it's astonishing
and a bit sad to think
371
00:28:46,793 --> 00:28:49,128
That the glaciers
we marvel at today
372
00:28:49,129 --> 00:28:52,698
Are only the smallest remnants
of the massive ice cap
373
00:28:52,699 --> 00:28:56,635
That covered this mountain
thousands of years ago.
374
00:28:59,072 --> 00:29:01,407
There's very little water
on the ground here.
375
00:29:01,408 --> 00:29:05,411
That's because
the glaciers aren't melting.
376
00:29:05,412 --> 00:29:08,080
They're disappearing
into the atmosphere
377
00:29:08,081 --> 00:29:12,117
Because the solid ice
is turning directly into vapor
378
00:29:12,118 --> 00:29:16,755
In a process
known as sublimation.
379
00:29:16,756 --> 00:29:19,258
Albertsen:
in such thin, dry air,
380
00:29:19,259 --> 00:29:20,959
This ice is completely exposed
381
00:29:20,960 --> 00:29:24,596
To the intense rays
of the tropical sun.
382
00:29:24,597 --> 00:29:28,600
That, along with
the sculpting force of wind,
383
00:29:28,601 --> 00:29:31,937
Creates fantastic shapes.
384
00:29:35,442 --> 00:29:37,443
Bilham:
as I walked with heidi,
385
00:29:37,444 --> 00:29:40,779
We realized that we were both
thinking the same thing,
386
00:29:40,780 --> 00:29:42,781
That this delicate fin of ice
387
00:29:42,782 --> 00:29:45,951
Would be different
in a week's time.
388
00:29:50,457 --> 00:29:56,495
In fact, in less than 100 years,
all this ice will be gone.
389
00:29:56,496 --> 00:29:58,630
But glaciers
will inevitably reappear
390
00:29:58,631 --> 00:30:03,068
During the next ice age, many
thousands of years from now.
391
00:30:11,277 --> 00:30:14,613
Since on the climb this morning
he had hurt his knee.I,
392
00:30:14,614 --> 00:30:16,949
He was trying to be so brave.
393
00:30:16,950 --> 00:30:19,952
He didn't
want to slow anyone down.
394
00:30:19,953 --> 00:30:21,920
[ cheers and applause ]
395
00:30:21,921 --> 00:30:26,258
Mmari: I was just very tired
because the day was tough.
396
00:30:26,259 --> 00:30:29,094
So when I get to the camp
and it was really hurting me --
397
00:30:29,095 --> 00:30:30,496
I don't know why.
398
00:30:30,497 --> 00:30:32,331
Did you take something
for it?
399
00:30:32,332 --> 00:30:34,933
Do you want something?
I have something.
400
00:30:34,934 --> 00:30:36,435
Bilham:
what's wrong, hans?
401
00:30:36,436 --> 00:30:37,603
My knee.
402
00:30:37,604 --> 00:30:39,271
Your knee, huh?
403
00:30:39,272 --> 00:30:41,440
Mmari: I was just walking
in a lazy way,
404
00:30:41,441 --> 00:30:45,944
So I just twisted my knee
in a funny way.
405
00:30:45,945 --> 00:30:47,780
Kyungai:
we can only hope
406
00:30:47,781 --> 00:30:53,686
That hansi's knee
and his spirits recover soon.
407
00:30:53,687 --> 00:30:58,257
We are camping
at over 18,000 feet.
408
00:30:58,258 --> 00:31:01,093
We still have to climb
to the summit,
409
00:31:01,094 --> 00:31:04,596
Which rises
above the glaciers behind us.
410
00:31:04,597 --> 00:31:07,599
But first,
roger wanted to understand
411
00:31:07,600 --> 00:31:10,602
The shape of this great crater,
412
00:31:10,603 --> 00:31:14,773
So I showed him the route
we've taken up to its rim
413
00:31:14,774 --> 00:31:17,309
And the site of our camp,
414
00:31:17,310 --> 00:31:21,647
And I promised to take him
more than a mile from camp
415
00:31:21,648 --> 00:31:27,619
To the inner crater and
the great vent at its center.
416
00:31:30,890 --> 00:31:33,559
Bilham:
early the next morning,
417
00:31:33,560 --> 00:31:38,330
Jacob and I set off across the
vast expanse of the main crater.
418
00:31:41,201 --> 00:31:47,039
It was well below freezing,
and we got very cold.
419
00:31:47,040 --> 00:31:52,578
In the distance, we could see
the central volcanic vent.
420
00:31:52,579 --> 00:31:57,883
As we descended the steep wall
of the inner crater,
421
00:31:57,884 --> 00:32:01,720
The central vent itself
never seemed to get any closer.
422
00:32:04,090 --> 00:32:06,258
It was difficult
to get an idea of scale
423
00:32:06,259 --> 00:32:08,394
Because there were
no familiar objects
424
00:32:08,395 --> 00:32:10,596
To determine
the size of the place.
425
00:32:10,597 --> 00:32:13,232
It was like walking on the moon.
426
00:32:20,407 --> 00:32:24,443
We finally reached
the rim of the central vent
427
00:32:24,444 --> 00:32:28,714
And peered 300 or 400 feet
down into its depths.
428
00:32:39,059 --> 00:32:42,361
Standing there,
I felt very small,
429
00:32:42,362 --> 00:32:46,131
And I tried to imagine
the fiery and tumultuous forces
430
00:32:46,132 --> 00:32:49,435
That had built this gigantic
mountain of lava,
431
00:32:49,436 --> 00:32:53,272
All now beneath me.
432
00:32:53,273 --> 00:32:55,941
We were at the very core
of the violence,
433
00:32:55,942 --> 00:32:58,977
Where molten rock blasted out
for millennia
434
00:32:58,978 --> 00:33:01,613
And where
just a few hundred years ago
435
00:33:01,614 --> 00:33:06,785
Kilimanjaro breathed its last
breath as an active volcano.
436
00:33:13,159 --> 00:33:16,462
The inner crater
surrounding the volcanic vent
437
00:33:16,463 --> 00:33:19,765
Was formed during kilimanjaro's
last eruption
438
00:33:19,766 --> 00:33:22,968
And is one of the most
perfectly symmetrical craters
439
00:33:22,969 --> 00:33:24,970
In the world.
440
00:33:36,950 --> 00:33:39,785
Mmari: I've been
on this mountain for days.
441
00:33:39,786 --> 00:33:44,490
And I haven't bathed.
I'm kind of smelly.
442
00:33:44,491 --> 00:33:49,294
And I think also
the others haven't bathed.
443
00:33:49,295 --> 00:33:54,466
And I just want to get up there.
I'll be happy.
444
00:33:54,467 --> 00:33:57,636
Kyungai:
hansi seems just fine.
445
00:33:57,637 --> 00:34:00,973
But to be safe, I wrap his knee
446
00:34:00,974 --> 00:34:03,976
For the climb
to the summit tomorrow.
447
00:34:09,082 --> 00:34:11,617
I rise at dawn on the day
448
00:34:11,618 --> 00:34:13,919
We will finally climb
to the summit.
449
00:34:13,920 --> 00:34:16,755
I can see all the way down
to the clouds
450
00:34:16,756 --> 00:34:22,428
Covering the warm forest where
we started 14,000 feet below.
451
00:34:26,332 --> 00:34:28,367
For 30 years,
452
00:34:28,368 --> 00:34:32,204
I've enjoyed bringing people
to this special place.
453
00:34:32,205 --> 00:34:37,176
I have climbed kilimanjaro
more than 250 times,
454
00:34:37,177 --> 00:34:41,680
And I don't know how much longer
I can keep guiding people here.
455
00:34:41,681 --> 00:34:45,718
But I do know
that they will keep coming,
456
00:34:45,719 --> 00:34:49,355
Drawn by its power
and its mystery.
457
00:34:55,228 --> 00:34:57,196
And like my new friends,
458
00:34:57,197 --> 00:35:00,232
They will find the strength
and the spirit
459
00:35:00,233 --> 00:35:03,669
To make the summit
they have dreamed of reaching.
460
00:35:03,670 --> 00:35:08,340
It is now
only a few hundred feet away.
461
00:35:10,310 --> 00:35:11,977
Wineland-thomson:
yeah, sometimes,
462
00:35:11,978 --> 00:35:13,645
I thought
that I wouldn't make it.
463
00:35:13,646 --> 00:35:15,647
I thought it would be too hard.
464
00:35:18,785 --> 00:35:21,954
Oh, gosh, it's just beautiful.
465
00:35:21,955 --> 00:35:25,457
I'm thinking of
how happy I am to be up here
466
00:35:25,458 --> 00:35:30,462
And that I'm here with my dad
and that I made it.
467
00:35:34,134 --> 00:35:37,836
Salkeld: it was such a relief
to know that we had all done it
468
00:35:37,837 --> 00:35:42,307
And here we all were
on the roof of africa.
469
00:35:51,685 --> 00:35:56,321
Albertsen: at first,
I thought, "maybe I'll make it."
470
00:35:56,322 --> 00:35:57,823
I didn't know.
471
00:35:57,824 --> 00:36:00,325
But now I know,
and I'm a stronger person
472
00:36:00,326 --> 00:36:04,997
Than I was when I came,
and I'm happy about that.
473
00:36:04,998 --> 00:36:09,168
Bilham: I'm extremely pleased to
have experienced this firsthand.
474
00:36:09,169 --> 00:36:14,506
Kilimanjaro
is a geological paradox.
475
00:36:14,507 --> 00:36:17,710
And it's a really thrilling
feeling to be standing
476
00:36:17,711 --> 00:36:22,348
Where all this rock poured forth
less than a million years ago.
477
00:36:27,020 --> 00:36:29,688
Salkeld: it's the first
real mountain I've ever climbed,
478
00:36:29,689 --> 00:36:32,358
And I'm absolutely delighted
to have done it.
479
00:36:32,359 --> 00:36:34,059
I can't believe I --
480
00:36:34,060 --> 00:36:37,396
I don't really think
I ever thought I would do it
481
00:36:37,397 --> 00:36:39,865
Until we did it.
482
00:36:46,172 --> 00:36:49,508
Mmari: when I reached the
summit, I pulled out my radio.
483
00:36:49,509 --> 00:36:54,346
I told dad, "I'm at the summit
of kilimanjaro, top of africa."
484
00:36:54,347 --> 00:36:56,682
After finishing that,
I sat somewhere,
485
00:36:56,683 --> 00:36:59,084
Thinking about going down,
486
00:36:59,085 --> 00:37:04,390
Seeing my small sister,
my dad, my mom,
487
00:37:04,391 --> 00:37:07,192
Having a bath,
488
00:37:07,193 --> 00:37:12,398
Having some hamburgers,
pizzas, yeah.
489
00:37:12,399 --> 00:37:14,533
Mmm!
490
00:37:18,038 --> 00:37:23,676
Kyungai: kilimanjaro is a place
where ordinary people come
491
00:37:23,677 --> 00:37:31,083
To do something extraordinary,
to leave their daily lives
492
00:37:31,084 --> 00:37:36,055
And stand in a place
between heaven and earth...
493
00:37:38,925 --> 00:37:44,229
...A magical place
in the africa of their dreams.
494
00:37:44,230 --> 00:37:47,232
[ mid-tempo music plays ]
48482
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