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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:06,917 --> 00:00:08,251 West Tibet. 2 00:00:08,459 --> 00:00:10,626 The Roof Of The World. 3 00:00:12,667 --> 00:00:15,501 In the thin air 6000 meters high 4 00:00:15,709 --> 00:00:19,959 a vast arid wasteland as far as the eye can see. 5 00:00:21,417 --> 00:00:23,959 In this remote corner of Western Tibet 6 00:00:24,126 --> 00:00:27,084 lie the ruins of a mysterious kingdom. 7 00:00:30,626 --> 00:00:34,042 A kingdom whose army was feared by all its neighbors. 8 00:00:35,917 --> 00:00:38,917 A kingdom which once dominated the trade in gold, 9 00:00:39,084 --> 00:00:42,292 silk, and spices between India and China. 10 00:00:45,834 --> 00:00:48,042 It was a kingdom of fabulous wealth 11 00:00:48,251 --> 00:00:51,084 and great religious significance. 12 00:00:53,042 --> 00:00:55,959 Scholars argue that without this kingdom, 13 00:00:56,126 --> 00:01:00,209 Tibetan Buddhism would have withered and died centuries ago. 14 00:01:00,542 --> 00:01:02,667 Yet this spiritual and commercial hub 15 00:01:02,876 --> 00:01:04,876 which prospered for seven centuries 16 00:01:05,042 --> 00:01:09,042 vanished almost without a trace in 1630. 17 00:01:18,209 --> 00:01:22,084 What happened to bring this great civilization to an end? 18 00:01:24,667 --> 00:01:29,084 Was it the arrival of the first ever westerners to visit Tibet? 19 00:01:31,292 --> 00:01:32,792 Or was it the intense rivalry 20 00:01:32,959 --> 00:01:36,042 between two brothers fighting for power? 21 00:01:37,126 --> 00:01:39,917 Why was it completely abandoned? 22 00:01:40,084 --> 00:01:44,667 And what silent secrets do these decapitated remains tell? 23 00:01:50,126 --> 00:01:51,709 To unravel this mystery, 24 00:01:51,917 --> 00:01:54,917 a Tibetan historian and an American archaeologist 25 00:01:55,084 --> 00:01:58,042 travel to the far reaches of Tibet. 26 00:01:59,042 --> 00:02:01,376 To these four hundred year old ruins 27 00:02:01,584 --> 00:02:05,042 where they will discover the answers to what happened 28 00:02:05,251 --> 00:02:09,001 to the extraordinary Kingdom of Guge. 29 00:02:22,251 --> 00:02:25,959 Today this is all that remains of Guge. 30 00:02:26,126 --> 00:02:29,542 Its capital city, Tsaparang. 31 00:02:31,042 --> 00:02:33,584 The grand vision of the first kings of Guge 32 00:02:33,792 --> 00:02:36,376 is reflected in this extraordinary city, 33 00:02:36,584 --> 00:02:40,126 literally carved into the side of a mountain. 34 00:02:40,334 --> 00:02:44,751 Soaring to the heavens the height of a modern 80-story skyscraper 35 00:02:45,459 --> 00:02:46,876 it is even today 36 00:02:47,042 --> 00:02:50,084 one of the largest structures in Tibet. 37 00:02:55,334 --> 00:02:57,459 Along its narrow lanes 38 00:02:57,667 --> 00:03:00,959 you can almost hear the echoes of the many people 39 00:03:01,126 --> 00:03:02,834 who toiled to gouge a city 40 00:03:03,001 --> 00:03:06,667 from this impenetrable mount of clay. 41 00:03:08,001 --> 00:03:09,917 A labyrinth of tunnels and stairs 42 00:03:10,084 --> 00:03:15,167 leads vertically 300 meters to the very top of the structure. 43 00:03:18,084 --> 00:03:20,751 The view is breathtaking 44 00:03:29,084 --> 00:03:34,251 But this is only a small part of the once mighty Kingdom of Guge. 45 00:03:35,167 --> 00:03:39,876 At its height it was twice the size of Great Britain. 46 00:03:42,042 --> 00:03:45,959 Experts believe that somewhere here lies the answer 47 00:03:46,167 --> 00:03:50,501 to one of the most intriguing archaeological enigmas in Asia. 48 00:03:54,751 --> 00:03:58,251 Who exactly built this extraordinary structure? 49 00:03:58,459 --> 00:03:59,959 And what could have possibly led 50 00:04:00,167 --> 00:04:03,042 to the downfall of this civilization? 51 00:04:07,459 --> 00:04:11,667 In its day, Guge was the Florence of The East. 52 00:04:14,334 --> 00:04:16,167 At a time when Genghis Khan's Mongols 53 00:04:16,376 --> 00:04:19,042 were advancing into Central Asia and Europe 54 00:04:19,251 --> 00:04:21,876 and the Crusades were being fought in Palestine, 55 00:04:22,042 --> 00:04:24,459 Guge was a flourishing centre of commerce, 56 00:04:24,667 --> 00:04:28,042 art, religion and political power. 57 00:04:33,084 --> 00:04:35,917 It dominated a strategic crossroads on the Silk Road 58 00:04:36,084 --> 00:04:38,459 between Central Asia and China, 59 00:04:38,667 --> 00:04:41,876 a crossroads for the numerous caravans trading gold, 60 00:04:42,042 --> 00:04:45,167 silk, wool and spices. 61 00:04:47,667 --> 00:04:51,667 Guge was the centre of sophisticated art and ideas 62 00:04:51,876 --> 00:04:55,084 a magnet for artisans and intellectuals. 63 00:04:55,292 --> 00:04:58,584 It was at the heart of a religious renaissance, 64 00:04:58,792 --> 00:05:03,084 and home to some of the greatest Buddhist thinkers of its time. 65 00:05:04,542 --> 00:05:07,167 Yet having prospered for 7 centuries, 66 00:05:07,376 --> 00:05:11,584 this magnificent Kingdom disappeared in 1630 67 00:05:11,792 --> 00:05:14,709 leaving only an enigmatic structure 68 00:05:14,917 --> 00:05:19,251 the very last remaining clue to a lost civilization. 69 00:05:20,501 --> 00:05:24,292 These are the first ever photographs of the Guge Kingdom. 70 00:05:24,501 --> 00:05:26,834 They were captured in 1933 71 00:05:27,001 --> 00:05:30,459 by Italian explorer Giuseppe Tucci. 72 00:05:32,001 --> 00:05:37,042 Tucci was the first Westerner to document these magnificent ruins. 73 00:05:40,584 --> 00:05:43,376 Tucci was awestruck by what lay before him. 74 00:05:43,584 --> 00:05:45,126 He wrote... 75 00:05:45,334 --> 00:05:47,501 "In front of us the whole hill side is 76 00:05:47,709 --> 00:05:50,376 covered with tremendous ruins; 77 00:05:50,584 --> 00:05:53,709 a dead city which seems to be keeping vigil 78 00:05:53,917 --> 00:05:57,209 over a tormented waste of stone." 79 00:06:04,167 --> 00:06:06,626 Tucci's visit to the ruins of Guge 80 00:06:06,834 --> 00:06:10,001 unearthed no clues to its demise. 81 00:06:11,459 --> 00:06:16,501 That task would be left to two modern-day experts on Tibet. 82 00:06:16,709 --> 00:06:20,626 American John Bellezza is an explorer and archaeologist 83 00:06:20,834 --> 00:06:26,417 who has studied this region's rich past for the last 20 years. 84 00:06:26,626 --> 00:06:30,959 Tibet is ringed by these incredibly high snow mountains, 85 00:06:31,126 --> 00:06:35,876 it's a limpid country of fantastic mountain ranges 86 00:06:36,042 --> 00:06:38,709 and broad rivers and pure lakes. 87 00:06:38,917 --> 00:06:41,376 Tibet is really an inspirational land. 88 00:06:41,584 --> 00:06:43,751 The colors in Tibet, 89 00:06:43,959 --> 00:06:45,167 the quality of light, 90 00:06:45,376 --> 00:06:46,917 the ways the shadows are cast 91 00:06:47,084 --> 00:06:50,417 are unmatched anywhere else our planet. 92 00:06:51,792 --> 00:06:52,667 Tibet is surrounded 93 00:06:52,876 --> 00:06:56,084 by the mighty mountain ranges of the Himalaya. 94 00:06:57,542 --> 00:07:00,001 To the South and West stands India. 95 00:07:00,209 --> 00:07:02,959 And to the North and East, China. 96 00:07:03,126 --> 00:07:08,126 The Kingdom of Guge occupied the arid Western arm of Tibet. 97 00:07:12,292 --> 00:07:17,084 Tsaparang is a 5-day drive west of the Tibetan capital of Lhasa. 98 00:07:19,001 --> 00:07:21,917 It is an arduous journey across unpaved roads 99 00:07:22,084 --> 00:07:23,876 in some of the least inhabited 100 00:07:24,042 --> 00:07:27,459 and harshest landscapes on the planet. 101 00:07:41,459 --> 00:07:43,501 The hardship and harshness of nature 102 00:07:43,709 --> 00:07:47,959 has forged a unique spirit in the people who live here. 103 00:07:48,167 --> 00:07:52,584 It's often said that Tibetans are inherently a spiritual people. 104 00:07:52,792 --> 00:07:55,459 I think part of it is the landscape. 105 00:07:55,667 --> 00:07:58,667 The Tibetan plateau just is so high, 106 00:07:58,876 --> 00:08:00,959 you are so close to the heavens. 107 00:08:01,126 --> 00:08:05,709 The closest most people would get to at this extreme altitude 108 00:08:05,917 --> 00:08:07,876 would be flying in an aeroplane. 109 00:08:08,042 --> 00:08:12,167 It is a harsh, demanding environment. 110 00:08:12,792 --> 00:08:14,917 This is where Tsering Gyalpo 111 00:08:15,084 --> 00:08:18,126 a leading international authority on Tibetan history 112 00:08:18,334 --> 00:08:21,084 was born and raised. 113 00:08:24,209 --> 00:08:25,876 This is his land 114 00:08:26,042 --> 00:08:28,709 and these are his people 115 00:08:33,709 --> 00:08:35,626 Tsering has brought John Bellezza here 116 00:08:35,834 --> 00:08:38,459 to learn about ancient tales and fables 117 00:08:38,751 --> 00:08:41,042 from his tribal elders 118 00:08:46,751 --> 00:08:50,084 The rule inside each tent is the same for everyone. 119 00:08:50,292 --> 00:08:54,001 The left side of the tent belongs to the women 120 00:08:54,209 --> 00:08:56,751 and the right side belongs to the men. 121 00:08:56,959 --> 00:08:59,834 The area at the back of the tent belongs to the older generation 122 00:09:00,001 --> 00:09:03,751 as a form of respect. 123 00:09:03,959 --> 00:09:07,542 Tsering has become a collector of stories from Guge's past 124 00:09:07,751 --> 00:09:09,959 with the help of these elders. 125 00:09:10,167 --> 00:09:14,626 Oral legends passed down from generation to generation 126 00:09:14,834 --> 00:09:18,792 provide one of the few sources historians like Tsering have 127 00:09:18,959 --> 00:09:23,084 to piece together the rise and fall of this lost kingdom. 128 00:09:23,501 --> 00:09:25,792 The tales are intriguing 129 00:09:26,292 --> 00:09:28,959 the constant struggle for water in an arid, 130 00:09:29,126 --> 00:09:31,001 inhospitable plateau, 131 00:09:31,209 --> 00:09:34,709 the encounter with strangers from the outside world 132 00:09:42,126 --> 00:09:43,126 Tsering and John 133 00:09:43,334 --> 00:09:48,167 embark on a quest to solve one of Tibet's greatest mysteries. 134 00:09:48,376 --> 00:09:51,251 How did the mighty kingdom of Guge flourish 135 00:09:51,459 --> 00:09:53,834 in the middle of a harsh desert? 136 00:09:54,001 --> 00:09:56,959 And what later caused its dramatic collapse 137 00:09:57,167 --> 00:09:59,626 in the 17th century? 138 00:10:02,376 --> 00:10:05,542 Of all the stories that shroud this lost city, 139 00:10:05,751 --> 00:10:08,834 there is one that is most often told. 140 00:10:09,001 --> 00:10:12,709 It is an extraordinary legend about a bitter power struggle 141 00:10:12,917 --> 00:10:13,876 between two brothers 142 00:10:14,042 --> 00:10:15,959 that eventually brought this magnificent 143 00:10:16,167 --> 00:10:20,376 700-year-old kingdom to a bloody end. 144 00:10:22,126 --> 00:10:24,584 One brother was the last King of Guge. 145 00:10:24,792 --> 00:10:26,917 His name was Chodakpo 146 00:10:27,084 --> 00:10:28,876 and he was considered both the religious 147 00:10:29,042 --> 00:10:31,792 and political ruler of the land. 148 00:10:31,959 --> 00:10:36,834 The other was the chief abbot of one of Tibet's greatest monasteries. 149 00:10:40,126 --> 00:10:43,959 What is said to have begun as an argument over authority, 150 00:10:44,126 --> 00:10:46,876 turned into a bitter ongoing dispute 151 00:10:47,042 --> 00:10:51,084 fuelled by jealousy and the thirst for power. 152 00:10:52,876 --> 00:10:54,917 This, it is speculated, 153 00:10:55,084 --> 00:11:00,126 is one plausible explanation for the eventual demise of Guge. 154 00:11:00,334 --> 00:11:01,167 There are a lot of stories out there 155 00:11:01,376 --> 00:11:04,126 about how the kingdom of Guge ended. 156 00:11:04,334 --> 00:11:08,584 We know that all through its history there were intrigues, 157 00:11:08,792 --> 00:11:11,501 there were times when royalty were assassinated, 158 00:11:11,709 --> 00:11:12,917 the kings lost their positions, 159 00:11:13,084 --> 00:11:16,334 usurped by a brother or half-brother 160 00:11:16,542 --> 00:11:19,751 so there were problems all along the way. 161 00:11:22,084 --> 00:11:25,667 King Chodakpo came from a long line of royalty 162 00:11:25,876 --> 00:11:26,917 who had ruled the Kingdom 163 00:11:27,084 --> 00:11:30,292 from the extraordinary acropolis at Tsaparang. 164 00:11:31,876 --> 00:11:35,334 This unusual structure was once a burgeoning metropolis, 165 00:11:35,542 --> 00:11:37,834 a city fortress. 166 00:11:40,709 --> 00:11:43,459 Today, it's an archaeological bonanza 167 00:11:43,667 --> 00:11:46,084 for explorers like Bellezza. 168 00:11:46,876 --> 00:11:50,626 Tsaparang is a wonderful place to... to wander about. 169 00:11:50,834 --> 00:11:52,001 It's like reliving your childhood 170 00:11:52,209 --> 00:11:54,167 exploring all the nooks and crannies, 171 00:11:54,376 --> 00:11:56,626 seeing things for the first time, 172 00:11:56,834 --> 00:11:57,876 I mean you never know 173 00:11:58,042 --> 00:11:59,959 what you're going to discover in the ruins. 174 00:12:00,126 --> 00:12:02,626 I mean It brings the civilization alive, 175 00:12:02,834 --> 00:12:05,501 and its people and its beliefs. 176 00:12:08,167 --> 00:12:09,917 The heart of Chodakpo's city 177 00:12:10,084 --> 00:12:12,376 was a sophisticated labyrinth of tunnels 178 00:12:12,584 --> 00:12:15,542 connecting the many caves called pugos. 179 00:12:16,542 --> 00:12:19,292 But not all caves were created equal. 180 00:12:19,959 --> 00:12:22,334 The base of the city complex is where the poor, 181 00:12:22,542 --> 00:12:26,042 foot soldiers, farmers and their families live. 182 00:12:26,251 --> 00:12:27,917 These laborers worked the fields, 183 00:12:28,084 --> 00:12:31,209 constructed public works and served the rich. 184 00:12:31,417 --> 00:12:35,626 They were the foundation of Chodakpo's kingdom. 185 00:12:35,834 --> 00:12:38,459 Out here in the extreme harsh climate, 186 00:12:38,667 --> 00:12:41,334 a cave made quite a comfortable home. 187 00:12:55,167 --> 00:12:57,167 The clay walls provided insulation 188 00:12:57,376 --> 00:12:59,417 from both the searing heat of summer 189 00:12:59,626 --> 00:13:02,292 and the freezing cold of winter. 190 00:13:27,334 --> 00:13:28,917 Climbing up the mountain 191 00:13:29,084 --> 00:13:32,084 also means climbing up the social ladder. 192 00:13:34,001 --> 00:13:37,084 Living in caves halfway up were merchants, 193 00:13:37,292 --> 00:13:39,792 the middle-class and monks. 194 00:13:40,042 --> 00:13:40,834 Further up, 195 00:13:41,001 --> 00:13:43,834 the mountain becomes more fortress-like, 196 00:13:44,001 --> 00:13:46,501 protecting those of higher status. 197 00:13:47,084 --> 00:13:50,209 And at the very top lived King Chodakpo, 198 00:13:50,417 --> 00:13:51,292 his family, 199 00:13:51,501 --> 00:13:54,334 the ministers and their retainers. 200 00:14:02,126 --> 00:14:06,001 The royal palace is located on the summit of the Tsaparang formation. 201 00:14:06,209 --> 00:14:08,001 And it's really like being in a penthouse. 202 00:14:08,209 --> 00:14:12,667 You have unobstructed views 360 degrees, 203 00:14:12,876 --> 00:14:14,709 you can see the rest of the kingdom, 204 00:14:14,917 --> 00:14:16,917 the rest of the people below you. 205 00:14:17,084 --> 00:14:19,917 It really gives you a sense of being in command 206 00:14:20,084 --> 00:14:23,126 and literally on top of the world. 207 00:14:24,917 --> 00:14:27,376 Being so high also made the palace 208 00:14:27,584 --> 00:14:30,126 a perfect strategic location. 209 00:14:30,334 --> 00:14:34,001 The sheer cliffs on three sides and the steep summit 210 00:14:34,209 --> 00:14:37,084 made the citadel virtually impregnable. 211 00:14:39,042 --> 00:14:41,917 From here the slopes are very steep. 212 00:14:42,084 --> 00:14:48,167 Any invaders would find it almost impossible to climb up. 213 00:14:51,834 --> 00:14:54,167 John Bellezza and Tsering Gyalpo 214 00:14:54,376 --> 00:14:56,376 believe that this is where the mystery 215 00:14:56,584 --> 00:14:59,001 slowly begins to unfold. 216 00:14:59,209 --> 00:15:03,042 What stories could these weathered walls tell? 217 00:15:04,959 --> 00:15:06,251 Perhaps an answer to a question 218 00:15:06,459 --> 00:15:09,417 that's stymied experts for decades. 219 00:15:09,626 --> 00:15:11,001 How did the royals of Guge 220 00:15:11,209 --> 00:15:14,042 make their way to the top of the acropolis? 221 00:15:15,167 --> 00:15:17,876 Certainly not the steep 30-minute hike up the narrow, 222 00:15:18,042 --> 00:15:21,167 craggy paths used by commoners? 223 00:15:23,959 --> 00:15:25,542 Tsering thinks he may have discovered 224 00:15:25,751 --> 00:15:27,792 a clue to this mystery. 225 00:15:28,042 --> 00:15:30,626 At the far end of the royal complex 226 00:15:30,834 --> 00:15:32,792 is a wide-open space 227 00:15:32,959 --> 00:15:37,292 which for years experts assumed was a reception hall for the king. 228 00:15:37,501 --> 00:15:40,584 But after analyzing the soil composition there, 229 00:15:40,792 --> 00:15:44,334 Tsering found traces of horsehair and manure. 230 00:15:44,542 --> 00:15:46,042 When you study the ground, 231 00:15:46,251 --> 00:15:48,917 you can discover horse manure in the soil. 232 00:15:49,084 --> 00:15:52,667 For example, this here is horse manure. 233 00:15:52,876 --> 00:15:57,959 Horse hair can actually be found mixed in together with the manure. 234 00:15:58,167 --> 00:16:03,042 Some people believe that this manure has sacred properties. 235 00:16:05,167 --> 00:16:08,709 But if indeed there was a stable high on this mountain, 236 00:16:08,917 --> 00:16:10,959 the question still remains, 237 00:16:11,126 --> 00:16:13,667 how could these horses have made their way 238 00:16:13,876 --> 00:16:17,501 300 meters to the top of the citadel? 239 00:16:19,251 --> 00:16:23,626 The answer may have revealed itself after heavy rains. 240 00:16:23,834 --> 00:16:27,001 Soil erosion uncovered the entrance to a dark tunnel, 241 00:16:27,209 --> 00:16:28,626 with a passageway 242 00:16:28,834 --> 00:16:32,542 that seemed to head down towards the valley below. 243 00:16:32,751 --> 00:16:36,209 The royalty depended on this passageway. 244 00:16:36,417 --> 00:16:45,959 It provided safe and secure access to transport supplies from below. 245 00:16:46,126 --> 00:16:49,834 This secret tunnel would eventually prove to be useful 246 00:16:50,001 --> 00:16:51,917 not just as transport 247 00:16:52,084 --> 00:16:55,209 but for the survival of the entire kingdom. 248 00:16:57,376 --> 00:17:00,292 But perhaps the greatest revelations on Guge 249 00:17:00,501 --> 00:17:02,167 were found here 250 00:17:03,126 --> 00:17:05,876 Within this nearly inaccessible structure 251 00:17:06,042 --> 00:17:08,917 are clues that hint at what life in Guge 252 00:17:09,084 --> 00:17:11,084 must have been like. 253 00:17:11,834 --> 00:17:14,459 This is the Red Temple. 254 00:17:15,001 --> 00:17:16,709 Behind these ancient doors, 255 00:17:16,917 --> 00:17:19,834 some of Buddhism's finest murals tell a story 256 00:17:20,001 --> 00:17:23,792 of one of the greatest civilizations in Asia 257 00:17:23,959 --> 00:17:25,167 one that in its heyday 258 00:17:25,376 --> 00:17:28,792 was unsurpassed across the Himalayas. 259 00:17:31,001 --> 00:17:33,959 These murals, document life in Guge 260 00:17:34,126 --> 00:17:38,584 and present a pictorial history of this once great kingdom. 261 00:17:39,876 --> 00:17:42,209 The murals of Guge are simply stunning. 262 00:17:42,417 --> 00:17:44,834 Not only are they great artwork, 263 00:17:45,001 --> 00:17:49,959 but they encapsulate the experience of the kingdom, 264 00:17:50,167 --> 00:17:52,959 its culture, its people, its society, 265 00:17:53,167 --> 00:17:54,626 the ways in which they did business, 266 00:17:54,834 --> 00:17:56,959 the ways in which they moved about and traded. 267 00:17:57,167 --> 00:18:00,876 These are all represented in the murals. 268 00:18:01,042 --> 00:18:02,626 This is not merely artwork; 269 00:18:02,834 --> 00:18:05,834 this is history in visual form. 270 00:18:06,751 --> 00:18:08,959 Over the centuries Tibet and its people 271 00:18:09,126 --> 00:18:12,042 have seen great upheavals. 272 00:18:13,251 --> 00:18:15,876 It began as a unified empire. 273 00:18:16,084 --> 00:18:17,626 Then around the year 850, 274 00:18:17,834 --> 00:18:19,251 the empire fell apart 275 00:18:19,459 --> 00:18:22,584 after a series of brutal civil wars. 276 00:18:24,959 --> 00:18:27,584 What emerged from the battles and the bloodshed 277 00:18:27,792 --> 00:18:31,376 was a separate kingdom - Guge. 278 00:18:35,751 --> 00:18:37,959 Guge flourished at the geographical crossroads 279 00:18:38,167 --> 00:18:41,667 to some of the greatest civilizations of the time. 280 00:18:47,792 --> 00:18:52,792 Tsaparang was the center of trade For the Guge kingdom 281 00:18:52,959 --> 00:18:56,917 In the autumn and spring, nomads would bring wool, 282 00:18:57,084 --> 00:19:00,626 skins and salt to trade in Tsaparang. 283 00:19:00,834 --> 00:19:01,959 And in the summer, 284 00:19:02,126 --> 00:19:03,834 people from the south side of the Himalaya 285 00:19:04,001 --> 00:19:05,917 would come down here to trade. 286 00:19:06,084 --> 00:19:07,751 Therefore the prosperity of the Guge 287 00:19:07,959 --> 00:19:11,751 Kingdom depended on all this trade. 288 00:19:11,959 --> 00:19:14,084 The king's wealth came from gold mines. 289 00:19:14,292 --> 00:19:17,084 And this was supplemented by alms given by pilgrims 290 00:19:17,292 --> 00:19:19,792 traveling through the Kingdom. 291 00:19:21,167 --> 00:19:22,917 None of these riches however 292 00:19:23,084 --> 00:19:26,042 could ensure what the Kingdom needed most: 293 00:19:26,251 --> 00:19:27,376 water. 294 00:19:29,959 --> 00:19:33,501 Tsaparang lay amidst a vast and arid desert. 295 00:19:34,126 --> 00:19:36,709 In order to guarantee Guge's survival, 296 00:19:36,917 --> 00:19:39,667 the King was forced to spend much of his resources 297 00:19:39,876 --> 00:19:41,876 transporting water to the city 298 00:19:42,042 --> 00:19:45,542 and to the farms that it depended on. 299 00:19:45,751 --> 00:19:47,959 The ancient irrigation canals, wells 300 00:19:48,167 --> 00:19:50,959 and even a 20 kilometer long aqueduct 301 00:19:51,126 --> 00:19:53,084 stretching from the Sutlej River 302 00:19:53,292 --> 00:19:57,251 to the citadel can still be seen amidst the ruins 303 00:19:57,834 --> 00:19:59,959 evidence of the massive undertakings 304 00:20:00,167 --> 00:20:02,876 to keep this oasis alive. 305 00:20:07,751 --> 00:20:10,001 With their power and livelihood secure, 306 00:20:10,209 --> 00:20:12,417 the royals proceeded to live a life 307 00:20:12,626 --> 00:20:15,376 full of absolute opulence. 308 00:20:17,292 --> 00:20:20,417 The whim of the noble elite in Guge 309 00:20:20,626 --> 00:20:24,959 to dress well goes beyond our bounds in the modern period. 310 00:20:25,167 --> 00:20:26,959 These were people who wore their clothes, 311 00:20:27,126 --> 00:20:31,376 their jewels with no sense of guilt or regret. 312 00:20:31,584 --> 00:20:33,084 They reveled in beauty, 313 00:20:33,292 --> 00:20:35,417 they reveled in opulence. 314 00:20:35,626 --> 00:20:38,459 Not only did they wear their beauty, 315 00:20:38,667 --> 00:20:41,792 they lived amidst it too in their houses, 316 00:20:41,959 --> 00:20:42,917 the way they decorated them 317 00:20:43,084 --> 00:20:46,251 with the greatest artworks of the times. 318 00:20:49,126 --> 00:20:50,334 In this banquet room, 319 00:20:50,542 --> 00:20:54,501 Chodakpo and his queen would have enjoyed many social occasions, 320 00:20:54,709 --> 00:20:57,959 entertained by song and dance. 321 00:21:06,042 --> 00:21:09,959 Guge's armory held the finest weaponry of the time. 322 00:21:10,126 --> 00:21:12,834 Its sword smiths used sophisticated techniques 323 00:21:13,001 --> 00:21:15,209 to craft superior steel alloys, 324 00:21:15,417 --> 00:21:18,959 making their swords much sought-after. 325 00:21:21,667 --> 00:21:23,209 But Guge's wealth and power 326 00:21:23,417 --> 00:21:27,167 also attractd the attention of envious neighbors 327 00:21:27,376 --> 00:21:29,959 who launched frequent attacks on the kingdom. 328 00:21:30,959 --> 00:21:33,834 Eventually one such neighbor would discover 329 00:21:34,001 --> 00:21:35,876 a weakness to capitalize on 330 00:21:36,042 --> 00:21:39,959 and Guge's fate would be sealed forever. 331 00:21:44,042 --> 00:21:46,292 Just 30 kilometers away down the valley 332 00:21:46,501 --> 00:21:48,834 from the palace at Tsaparang 333 00:21:49,042 --> 00:21:51,626 is the monastery of Tholing. 334 00:21:51,834 --> 00:21:53,959 Today, it is a modest structure, 335 00:21:54,167 --> 00:21:56,751 an eighth of its original size. 336 00:21:56,959 --> 00:21:58,209 But at its peak, 337 00:21:58,417 --> 00:22:00,959 Tholing housed more than 900 monks 338 00:22:01,126 --> 00:22:04,001 and was the largest of Guge's monasteries 339 00:22:04,209 --> 00:22:06,459 both in size and influence 340 00:22:06,667 --> 00:22:10,126 a power base akin to the Vatican. 341 00:22:10,334 --> 00:22:14,292 Pilgrims flocked to Tholing and with them came wealth, 342 00:22:14,501 --> 00:22:16,876 which they gave to the monastery. 343 00:22:17,042 --> 00:22:19,709 At the centre of this spiritual power base, 344 00:22:19,917 --> 00:22:20,959 was the Chief Abbot 345 00:22:21,167 --> 00:22:23,542 King Chodakpo's brother. 346 00:22:23,751 --> 00:22:26,584 Tholing had great power over the people of Tibet, 347 00:22:26,792 --> 00:22:28,751 Central Asia and the sub-continents. 348 00:22:28,959 --> 00:22:33,292 It was the greatest religious center par excellence of its time 349 00:22:33,501 --> 00:22:37,042 and that gave it the moral authority, 350 00:22:37,251 --> 00:22:41,584 intellectual power and political prestige 351 00:22:41,792 --> 00:22:45,626 that no other institutions of the time had. 352 00:22:49,792 --> 00:22:51,917 Even before the rise of Guge, 353 00:22:52,084 --> 00:22:54,917 Buddhism had long-established roots in Tibet. 354 00:22:55,084 --> 00:22:57,876 But civil war in Central Tibet would fragment 355 00:22:58,042 --> 00:23:01,001 and dilute Buddhism's role in society. 356 00:23:02,167 --> 00:23:03,876 From the wake of these upheavals, 357 00:23:04,042 --> 00:23:05,959 it was the early kings of Guge 358 00:23:06,126 --> 00:23:09,792 that championed Buddhism in Western Tibet. 359 00:23:12,084 --> 00:23:14,334 According to Tsering Gyalpo, 360 00:23:14,542 --> 00:23:16,292 the third King, Yeshe Od, 361 00:23:16,501 --> 00:23:18,292 convened a Buddhist council, 362 00:23:18,501 --> 00:23:21,917 the great prayer festival of 1076. 363 00:23:22,084 --> 00:23:27,167 He invited great Buddhist thinkers from Tibet and beyond to attend. 364 00:23:29,709 --> 00:23:32,042 His aim was to strengthen Tibetan Buddhism 365 00:23:32,251 --> 00:23:35,126 and to propagate its philosophies. 366 00:23:36,001 --> 00:23:39,959 Yeshe Od's initiative was to prove successful. 367 00:23:42,251 --> 00:23:45,459 Amazingly well preserved centuries old murals 368 00:23:45,667 --> 00:23:48,209 speak of this religious convention 369 00:23:48,459 --> 00:23:52,209 a spiritual gathering which planted the first seeds 370 00:23:52,417 --> 00:23:55,917 from which Tibetan Buddhism was reborn. 371 00:23:58,167 --> 00:23:59,417 From that point onward, 372 00:23:59,626 --> 00:24:01,584 Guge became the spiritual 373 00:24:01,792 --> 00:24:04,501 and cultural heart of Tibetan Buddhism. 374 00:24:07,001 --> 00:24:09,167 The King enticed some of the greatest Buddhist 375 00:24:09,376 --> 00:24:11,126 leaders of his time. 376 00:24:11,334 --> 00:24:14,417 Not unlike headhunting CEOs today, 377 00:24:14,626 --> 00:24:17,251 he offered them riches beyond their dreams 378 00:24:17,459 --> 00:24:21,501 if they would only move to his kingdom. 379 00:24:21,709 --> 00:24:25,334 Guge was at the centre of a religious renaissance 380 00:24:25,542 --> 00:24:29,876 one that was about to get even more intense. 381 00:24:33,626 --> 00:24:34,876 From the 11th century, 382 00:24:35,042 --> 00:24:36,751 Kashmir, part of Ladakh 383 00:24:36,959 --> 00:24:40,917 and much of northeast India were been converted to Islam. 384 00:24:41,084 --> 00:24:42,751 For the next 300 years, 385 00:24:42,959 --> 00:24:46,376 Islam spread throughout most of the Indian sub continent. 386 00:24:46,584 --> 00:24:47,876 As the Muslims advanced, 387 00:24:48,042 --> 00:24:52,001 they sacked Buddhist temples and persecuted the devout. 388 00:24:52,209 --> 00:24:56,876 Artists, scholars and monks fled in fear. 389 00:24:57,042 --> 00:24:59,167 And it was Guge that they fled to. 390 00:24:59,376 --> 00:25:02,376 Because here they found sanctuary. 391 00:25:02,792 --> 00:25:06,251 Buddhism flourished in Guge, for two reasons. 392 00:25:06,459 --> 00:25:10,417 One was the fulfillment of the dream of the Tibetan emperors, 393 00:25:10,626 --> 00:25:15,001 the other was the need of the intellectual community in India 394 00:25:15,209 --> 00:25:17,959 to find a safe and secure home. 395 00:25:18,167 --> 00:25:20,584 Guge was able to cater to both. 396 00:25:21,001 --> 00:25:23,584 And with these devotees came artisans 397 00:25:23,792 --> 00:25:26,626 leading to an explosion of creativity. 398 00:25:26,834 --> 00:25:29,709 Frescoes hidden across the ancient Guge ruins 399 00:25:29,917 --> 00:25:32,542 offer us a glimpse of these heady times 400 00:25:32,751 --> 00:25:36,126 not unlike Medici Florence during the Renaissance. 401 00:25:36,709 --> 00:25:39,209 Foreign artists from across the Buddhist world 402 00:25:39,417 --> 00:25:42,167 brought their own distinctive style of art 403 00:25:42,376 --> 00:25:44,376 and here influenced each other, 404 00:25:44,584 --> 00:25:47,167 copying and fusing styles 405 00:25:47,376 --> 00:25:51,792 ultimately creating an entirely new direction in art 406 00:25:51,959 --> 00:25:53,501 the Guge school. 407 00:25:53,709 --> 00:25:56,959 For me one of the stunning things about these murals 408 00:25:57,126 --> 00:25:59,751 is the sheer diversity 409 00:25:59,959 --> 00:26:03,084 they hold in terms of human culture; 410 00:26:03,292 --> 00:26:06,959 they depict people from all over the Buddhist world. 411 00:26:07,126 --> 00:26:10,959 All of the cultures within the orbit of Guge, 412 00:26:11,126 --> 00:26:13,876 are there on these murals, 413 00:26:15,626 --> 00:26:18,501 The dry mountain air and remoteness of this area 414 00:26:18,709 --> 00:26:24,126 have helped make these murals some of the best preserved in Asia. 415 00:26:24,334 --> 00:26:27,917 It is argued that the Guge Kingdom's commitment to Buddhism 416 00:26:28,084 --> 00:26:30,084 and the influx of refugee-followers, 417 00:26:30,292 --> 00:26:32,917 was such a powerful force, 418 00:26:33,084 --> 00:26:37,084 Tibetan Buddhism may never have survived without it. 419 00:26:38,167 --> 00:26:40,084 Today Buddhism is still 420 00:26:40,292 --> 00:26:43,917 an integral part of everyday life in Tibet. 421 00:26:44,376 --> 00:26:46,001 It is an ancestral gift 422 00:26:46,209 --> 00:26:49,667 that permeates all levels of society, 423 00:26:53,709 --> 00:26:57,501 Tibetans still flock to Guge even today. 424 00:26:57,709 --> 00:26:59,417 Not so much for the temples 425 00:26:59,626 --> 00:27:03,126 as for the wondrous peak towering over Tsaparang 426 00:27:03,334 --> 00:27:05,917 the sacred Mt. Kailash. 427 00:27:10,167 --> 00:27:12,542 These pilgrims are a reminder of the thousands 428 00:27:12,751 --> 00:27:14,792 who have come to Guge before them. 429 00:27:14,959 --> 00:27:18,167 They are living proof of a deeper reason 430 00:27:18,376 --> 00:27:21,542 for this most unique journey in life. 431 00:27:24,626 --> 00:27:27,292 We are from Shigatse, three days' drive away. 432 00:27:27,501 --> 00:27:29,292 So you've come from Shigatse, on a pilgrimage! 433 00:27:29,501 --> 00:27:34,167 Yes, this year I will spend two days circumambulating Mount Kailash. 434 00:27:34,376 --> 00:27:37,167 How long would it normally take you? 435 00:27:37,376 --> 00:27:40,167 Two days if I go quickly. 436 00:27:40,376 --> 00:27:43,792 How far will you get after one day? 437 00:27:43,959 --> 00:27:47,834 How far will we get? 438 00:27:48,001 --> 00:27:50,001 We will reach Seripug. 439 00:27:50,209 --> 00:27:54,542 Ahh, the village of Seripug. 440 00:28:04,126 --> 00:28:06,834 Pilgrims like the one Tsering has come across here, 441 00:28:07,001 --> 00:28:10,501 are on a trek around the perimeter of a sacred site 442 00:28:10,709 --> 00:28:13,751 in a ritual known as 'Kora'. 443 00:28:15,084 --> 00:28:17,667 Some pilgrims will even go to profound lengths 444 00:28:17,876 --> 00:28:21,042 to demonstrate their faith through prostration. 445 00:28:22,959 --> 00:28:24,501 A devotee may take years 446 00:28:24,709 --> 00:28:27,501 to travel hundreds of miles in this manner. 447 00:28:29,084 --> 00:28:32,459 The Tibetans had this deep abiding interest 448 00:28:32,667 --> 00:28:35,626 in understanding the nature of human existence: 449 00:28:35,834 --> 00:28:37,542 why are humans born, 450 00:28:37,751 --> 00:28:40,292 where they come from and where did they go. 451 00:28:40,501 --> 00:28:42,376 First through their native traditions 452 00:28:42,584 --> 00:28:47,376 and later on through the medium of Buddhism, 453 00:28:47,584 --> 00:28:51,876 Tibetans explored the nature of human existence, 454 00:28:52,042 --> 00:28:55,042 what it means to be a human being. 455 00:28:57,876 --> 00:28:59,834 At the height of Tholing's influence, 456 00:29:00,001 --> 00:29:05,209 it amassed considerable wealth from donations made by pilgrims. 457 00:29:06,167 --> 00:29:08,042 By King Chodakpo's reign, 458 00:29:08,251 --> 00:29:10,959 legend has it that Tholing's influence 459 00:29:11,167 --> 00:29:13,334 and wealth was so great 460 00:29:13,542 --> 00:29:17,959 it began to overshadow the practical needs of the Kingdom. 461 00:29:19,084 --> 00:29:21,334 Guge relied on a large pool of labor 462 00:29:21,542 --> 00:29:23,417 to work the irrigation schemes, 463 00:29:23,626 --> 00:29:26,667 grow the barley, and raise the herds. 464 00:29:27,459 --> 00:29:30,959 But as more and more men flocked to the monasteries 465 00:29:31,126 --> 00:29:34,876 King Chodakpo saw his human resources dwindle 466 00:29:35,042 --> 00:29:37,917 and the economy began to suffer. 467 00:29:41,126 --> 00:29:42,709 By 1630, 468 00:29:42,917 --> 00:29:44,876 relations between the King and his brother 469 00:29:45,042 --> 00:29:47,751 had reached an all time low. 470 00:29:47,959 --> 00:29:50,001 A bitter dispute broke out between them 471 00:29:50,209 --> 00:29:54,917 a power struggle between the monastery and the monarchy, 472 00:29:55,084 --> 00:29:58,084 between religion and state. 473 00:30:00,084 --> 00:30:01,917 In the midst of this tension 474 00:30:02,084 --> 00:30:04,667 all that was needed was a tiny spark 475 00:30:04,876 --> 00:30:09,209 to bring about the beginning of the end for Guge. 476 00:30:12,251 --> 00:30:13,334 For centuries, 477 00:30:13,542 --> 00:30:15,417 the abandoned ruins of Guge 478 00:30:15,626 --> 00:30:17,626 and the Kingdom that once flourished here 479 00:30:17,834 --> 00:30:21,834 remained a mystery and virtually unknown to the West. 480 00:30:22,001 --> 00:30:25,792 Its remote location in the arid highlands of Western Tibet 481 00:30:25,959 --> 00:30:28,917 kept it preserved almost intact. 482 00:30:33,417 --> 00:30:34,917 In 1957, 483 00:30:35,084 --> 00:30:38,167 China's People's Liberation Army visited Tsaparang, 484 00:30:38,376 --> 00:30:43,167 giving us the first ever motion pictures of the abandoned city. 485 00:30:46,542 --> 00:30:48,417 Amongst the heavily eroded ruins, 486 00:30:48,626 --> 00:30:50,959 they discovered intricate religious objects, 487 00:30:51,167 --> 00:30:57,126 icons and murals telltale signs of grandeur and opulence. 488 00:30:58,042 --> 00:31:01,626 But it was inside caves deep within the city 489 00:31:01,834 --> 00:31:05,084 that the soldiers found the most intriguing revelations: 490 00:31:05,292 --> 00:31:09,542 Amour, shields and hundreds of arrows. 491 00:31:10,959 --> 00:31:12,959 And in one particular cave 492 00:31:13,167 --> 00:31:17,959 the Cave of the Dead they found the most grisly of evidence: 493 00:31:18,126 --> 00:31:22,126 the remains of hundreds of headless corpses. 494 00:31:23,126 --> 00:31:25,626 Whose macabre remains are these? 495 00:31:26,042 --> 00:31:28,042 And how did they get here? 496 00:31:29,167 --> 00:31:31,959 Perhaps answers to these questions would shed some light 497 00:31:32,126 --> 00:31:35,417 on the mysterious disappearance of Guge. 498 00:31:36,501 --> 00:31:38,876 But we would have to wait another 20 years 499 00:31:39,042 --> 00:31:41,542 for that illumination. 500 00:31:41,751 --> 00:31:45,959 In 1985, a team from Xi'an Archaeological Institute 501 00:31:46,126 --> 00:31:48,792 stumbled upon an intriguing clue. 502 00:31:48,959 --> 00:31:53,459 An ancient paper mask probably used in a religious ceremony. 503 00:31:54,292 --> 00:31:56,292 It seemed quite ordinary at first, 504 00:31:56,501 --> 00:31:58,167 but when they turned it over, 505 00:31:58,376 --> 00:32:02,417 they found traces of an unrecognizable Western script. 506 00:32:03,542 --> 00:32:05,501 Months of research would reveal this 507 00:32:05,709 --> 00:32:08,584 to be a section of pages from a Bible 508 00:32:08,792 --> 00:32:11,209 written in an ancient from of Portuguese 509 00:32:11,417 --> 00:32:13,751 used by early Jesuits. 510 00:32:15,167 --> 00:32:17,959 But how could the pages of an old Catholic Bible 511 00:32:18,126 --> 00:32:20,709 come to be part of a Tibetan shaman's mask 512 00:32:20,917 --> 00:32:23,126 in the far reaches of Guge. 513 00:32:26,751 --> 00:32:28,209 In 1624, 514 00:32:28,417 --> 00:32:31,709 a Jesuit missionary Father Antonio Andrade 515 00:32:31,917 --> 00:32:35,292 wrote a book highly popular across Europe. 516 00:32:36,917 --> 00:32:41,251 In it he describes his visit to an amazing country called Tibet. 517 00:32:41,459 --> 00:32:45,376 Father Andrade and his companion trekked from their mission in Goa 518 00:32:45,584 --> 00:32:48,376 in Search of a long forgotten Christian state 519 00:32:48,584 --> 00:32:50,334 called Shambhala. 520 00:32:51,042 --> 00:32:54,334 Instead, they discovered Guge. 521 00:33:00,834 --> 00:33:02,792 By this time, the story goes: 522 00:33:02,959 --> 00:33:05,167 tensions between Chodakpo and his brother 523 00:33:05,376 --> 00:33:07,042 were at an all time high. 524 00:33:07,417 --> 00:33:10,209 And they were about to get worse. 525 00:33:11,084 --> 00:33:14,167 The King warmly welcomes Andrade. 526 00:33:14,376 --> 00:33:17,167 In his book Andrade writes: 527 00:33:17,376 --> 00:33:18,584 "As holy men. 528 00:33:18,792 --> 00:33:21,917 The king treated us with great reverence and then explained, 529 00:33:22,084 --> 00:33:23,751 somewhat to my surprise, 530 00:33:23,959 --> 00:33:26,001 that he wished to understand our faith. 531 00:33:27,042 --> 00:33:30,792 This was as welcome as it was unexpected." 532 00:33:33,292 --> 00:33:35,584 Not only does Chodakpo proclaim the pair 533 00:33:35,792 --> 00:33:37,876 to be his personal guests, 534 00:33:38,042 --> 00:33:40,917 he invites them to stay and teach their beliefs, 535 00:33:41,084 --> 00:33:44,042 even ordering the building of a chapel. 536 00:33:45,376 --> 00:33:49,626 Such behaviours would have infuriated the Buddhists at Tholing. 537 00:33:49,834 --> 00:33:53,417 They saw the King's actions as a betrayal against Buddhism. 538 00:33:53,626 --> 00:33:57,376 It was a move that would not go unanswered. 539 00:33:57,584 --> 00:34:00,917 According to stories later recorded by Andrade, 540 00:34:01,167 --> 00:34:04,459 what happened next was an uprising against the King 541 00:34:04,667 --> 00:34:08,334 that would forever change the course of Guge's history... 542 00:34:09,084 --> 00:34:10,959 Seeking to protect his stronghold, 543 00:34:11,126 --> 00:34:13,501 the Head Abbott sends word to his supporters 544 00:34:13,709 --> 00:34:18,292 in the neighboring Kingdom of Ladakh 500 kilometers away. 545 00:34:20,542 --> 00:34:22,709 Seizing this long awaited opportunity, 546 00:34:22,917 --> 00:34:25,959 the Ladakhis marched across the border of Guge, 547 00:34:26,126 --> 00:34:27,709 overcoming each fortress 548 00:34:27,917 --> 00:34:29,834 and embattlement in their path 549 00:34:30,001 --> 00:34:33,001 until they reached the capital Tsaparang. 550 00:34:34,001 --> 00:34:35,001 By this time, 551 00:34:35,209 --> 00:34:38,959 Guge's economic and political resources were strained. 552 00:34:39,167 --> 00:34:41,084 No reinforcements would be coming. 553 00:34:41,292 --> 00:34:45,376 And Tsaparang would have to face the invaders on its own. 554 00:34:47,167 --> 00:34:51,042 But taking Tsaparang would not be easy. 555 00:34:51,792 --> 00:34:53,792 The capital's Western and Southern approaches 556 00:34:53,959 --> 00:34:58,042 are sheer vertical walls virtually attack-proof. 557 00:34:58,251 --> 00:34:59,667 At the summit, 558 00:34:59,876 --> 00:35:02,792 the royal palace was protected by a defensive wall 559 00:35:02,959 --> 00:35:05,084 running along its perimeter. 560 00:35:06,959 --> 00:35:09,542 The only possible approach for the Ladakhi forces 561 00:35:09,751 --> 00:35:13,334 was up a gently sloping hill on the north-east, 562 00:35:13,542 --> 00:35:17,584 but even this route was blocked by a substantial wall. 563 00:35:19,876 --> 00:35:22,751 When the Ladakhi army reached Tsaparang 564 00:35:22,959 --> 00:35:23,959 they were flush with victory. 565 00:35:24,167 --> 00:35:28,751 They had conquered all the satellite fortresses. 566 00:35:28,959 --> 00:35:32,167 They were now primed for the final battle. 567 00:35:57,376 --> 00:36:01,959 How this final battle began is a matter of some uncertainty, 568 00:36:02,126 --> 00:36:03,376 but scholars believe 569 00:36:03,584 --> 00:36:07,417 the entrance to the city was stormed by the Ladakhis. 570 00:36:44,209 --> 00:36:45,917 Breaking through the city gates, 571 00:36:46,084 --> 00:36:48,501 the Ladakhis overcame Guge's resistance 572 00:36:48,709 --> 00:36:52,167 and took control of the lower part of the citadel. 573 00:36:53,292 --> 00:36:56,626 But as they chased the retreating soldiers and citizens of Guge 574 00:36:56,834 --> 00:36:59,959 up the passageways and tunnels to its summit, 575 00:37:00,167 --> 00:37:03,501 the Ladakhis found themselves sitting ducks. 576 00:37:03,709 --> 00:37:05,876 As they snaked towards the summit, 577 00:37:06,042 --> 00:37:08,376 these passageways narrowed. 578 00:37:08,584 --> 00:37:11,709 The Ladakhis had to pass through them almost single file 579 00:37:11,917 --> 00:37:15,251 making them easy targets for Guge's forces. 580 00:37:15,459 --> 00:37:17,209 After taking heavy losses, 581 00:37:17,417 --> 00:37:21,292 the Ladakhis retreated to the lower ramparts to regroup. 582 00:37:21,501 --> 00:37:23,459 It became clear to the Ladakhis 583 00:37:23,667 --> 00:37:27,001 that a frontal assault on the citadel would be impossible. 584 00:37:27,209 --> 00:37:30,334 Instead, they chose to sit and wait. 585 00:37:30,542 --> 00:37:33,709 By surrounding the citadel the Ladakhis were confident 586 00:37:33,917 --> 00:37:37,334 they had blocked all avenues of escape and fresh supplies 587 00:37:37,542 --> 00:37:39,542 especially water. 588 00:37:39,751 --> 00:37:41,709 How long could Chodakpo and his people 589 00:37:41,917 --> 00:37:44,709 hold out In this dry environment? 590 00:37:44,917 --> 00:37:46,626 But unknown to the Ladakhis, 591 00:37:46,834 --> 00:37:50,334 Guge might have had a trick or two up its sleeve. 592 00:37:50,542 --> 00:37:53,209 Deep beneath the citadel lies a network of caves 593 00:37:53,417 --> 00:37:58,751 that John Bellezza and Tsering Gyalpo found to be most unusual. 594 00:37:58,959 --> 00:38:02,626 These were originally thought to be a royal winter retreat. 595 00:38:02,834 --> 00:38:04,459 To escape the bitter cold of winter, 596 00:38:04,667 --> 00:38:08,959 scholars believed the royal family would have come here to keep warm. 597 00:38:10,126 --> 00:38:12,334 But as John and Tsering explore further, 598 00:38:12,542 --> 00:38:15,751 they find evidence that suggests these caves 599 00:38:15,959 --> 00:38:18,501 may have had some other purpose. 600 00:38:18,709 --> 00:38:23,417 There is no sign of smoke in this cave. 601 00:38:23,626 --> 00:38:25,709 You're right. 602 00:38:25,917 --> 00:38:29,626 There is no evidence of soot in this cave. 603 00:38:29,834 --> 00:38:31,251 I think that this cave must have been used as 604 00:38:31,459 --> 00:38:34,084 a storeroom or warehouse of some sort. 605 00:38:34,292 --> 00:38:37,542 Every cave connected to this one is similar. 606 00:38:37,751 --> 00:38:40,959 I think these are obviously not dwelings, 607 00:38:41,167 --> 00:38:43,876 but rather, rooms for storage. 608 00:38:44,042 --> 00:38:46,376 If this was being used for lodging, 609 00:38:46,584 --> 00:38:48,084 there would be some kind of trace from the smoke of a fire. 610 00:38:48,292 --> 00:38:50,126 Also there would be a proper doorway, 611 00:38:50,334 --> 00:38:52,209 maybe a wooden one. 612 00:38:52,417 --> 00:38:56,751 The ceiling would also be much higher 613 00:38:58,334 --> 00:38:59,959 Tsering reckons these caves 614 00:39:00,167 --> 00:39:03,251 could have stored food and supplies to last a year. 615 00:39:04,376 --> 00:39:05,334 So in theory, 616 00:39:05,542 --> 00:39:08,376 Guge could have held out for a while. 617 00:39:11,042 --> 00:39:13,626 Apparently these secret passages 618 00:39:13,834 --> 00:39:18,959 also allowed the besieged people of Guge access to water. 619 00:39:20,917 --> 00:39:24,834 Some passages led to an exit near the Sutlej River. 620 00:39:25,959 --> 00:39:27,751 With food and water available, 621 00:39:27,959 --> 00:39:31,126 Tsaparang held out for close to a month 622 00:39:31,334 --> 00:39:35,334 before the Ladakhis stepped up the offensive. 623 00:39:37,626 --> 00:39:39,959 By now the invaders had taken over 624 00:39:40,126 --> 00:39:42,792 the unprotected lower sections of the citadel, 625 00:39:42,959 --> 00:39:46,251 and had gained had a crucial bargaining chip in the process 626 00:39:46,459 --> 00:39:49,376 thousands of Guge prisoners. 627 00:39:52,667 --> 00:39:56,626 Half way up the citadel stands a very peculiar stone partition, 628 00:39:56,834 --> 00:40:00,334 unlike anything else found in Tsaparang. 629 00:40:00,542 --> 00:40:02,376 The wall is very interesting. 630 00:40:02,584 --> 00:40:03,459 It's built of stone, 631 00:40:03,667 --> 00:40:05,501 while the other buildings were 632 00:40:05,709 --> 00:40:10,251 primarily built of earth or mud brick. 633 00:40:10,459 --> 00:40:14,126 It doesn't have any obvious habitational function; 634 00:40:14,334 --> 00:40:17,959 it doesn't have any obvious defensive function. 635 00:40:18,167 --> 00:40:20,167 So why was the wall there? 636 00:40:21,167 --> 00:40:24,542 If storming the citadel through the tunnels was impossible, 637 00:40:24,751 --> 00:40:28,584 then the only other option would be to build a siege tower 638 00:40:30,042 --> 00:40:32,542 and by the most ruthless of means 639 00:40:32,751 --> 00:40:35,751 on the backs of captured Guge prisoners. 640 00:40:37,042 --> 00:40:39,959 The royal precinct was virtually unassailable. 641 00:40:40,126 --> 00:40:43,917 The Ladakhi army reached a shelf beneath the sheer summit. 642 00:40:44,084 --> 00:40:48,126 They were stuck here for close to a month 643 00:40:48,334 --> 00:40:50,751 so they began to build a siege tower 644 00:40:50,959 --> 00:40:53,667 with pressed Guge labor. 645 00:40:53,876 --> 00:40:55,917 They had to bring stones from a black mountain 646 00:40:56,084 --> 00:40:58,876 from the far side of the Sutlej River. 647 00:41:01,126 --> 00:41:02,917 As the siege tower rose, 648 00:41:03,084 --> 00:41:06,292 it claimed the lives of many Guge slaves. 649 00:41:07,292 --> 00:41:11,292 Ancient stories tell of how the slaves were beaten so mercilessly 650 00:41:11,501 --> 00:41:14,626 that their organs showed through their flesh. 651 00:41:18,542 --> 00:41:20,959 But building a 100-meter structure of this kind 652 00:41:21,126 --> 00:41:24,917 would have been a near impossible engineering feat for its time. 653 00:41:25,084 --> 00:41:28,667 Instead, experts believe the Ladakhi siege tower 654 00:41:28,876 --> 00:41:32,751 was a psychological rather than physical gambit 655 00:41:36,126 --> 00:41:40,001 how long could King Chodakpo bear to watch the daily torture 656 00:41:40,209 --> 00:41:43,126 and suffering of his captured subjects? 657 00:41:44,709 --> 00:41:47,334 As legend has it, 658 00:41:47,542 --> 00:41:51,917 the last king, Chodakpo seeing the great suffering 659 00:41:52,084 --> 00:41:55,001 that his people were enduring building this wall without food 660 00:41:55,209 --> 00:42:01,209 and as they died as they succumbed to the pressures of construction. 661 00:42:01,417 --> 00:42:04,959 He saw the great sufferings that his people were undergoing. 662 00:42:06,084 --> 00:42:07,334 And he had great pity, 663 00:42:07,542 --> 00:42:12,417 the king of Guge and he decided, 664 00:42:12,626 --> 00:42:14,959 it must have been a difficult decision 665 00:42:15,167 --> 00:42:17,667 but he decided in the end to surrender. 666 00:42:19,959 --> 00:42:21,126 According to legend, 667 00:42:21,334 --> 00:42:23,626 in the final hour of Guge, 668 00:42:23,834 --> 00:42:25,459 King Chodakpo and his retinue 669 00:42:25,667 --> 00:42:28,876 made their poignant descent from summit to base, 670 00:42:29,042 --> 00:42:31,376 even bearing gifts of gold and silver 671 00:42:31,584 --> 00:42:33,501 to appease the invaders. 672 00:42:34,209 --> 00:42:36,959 But the reception they received from the Ladhakis 673 00:42:37,167 --> 00:42:40,001 is surrounded in controversy. 674 00:42:41,501 --> 00:42:42,917 In one fell swoop, 675 00:42:43,084 --> 00:42:46,626 the 700-year-old kingdom of Guge had been conquered. 676 00:42:46,834 --> 00:42:49,001 But what happened after the King surrendered 677 00:42:49,209 --> 00:42:51,667 is still shrouded in mystery. 678 00:42:55,042 --> 00:42:58,209 John Bellezza and Tsering Gyalpo have their own ideas 679 00:42:58,417 --> 00:43:02,959 ideas that take them to the infamous Cave of the Dead. 680 00:43:04,501 --> 00:43:06,084 Could the bodies that the Chinese Army 681 00:43:06,292 --> 00:43:08,001 saw more than 50 years ago 682 00:43:08,209 --> 00:43:11,334 be the corpses of the last royals of Guge? 683 00:43:11,542 --> 00:43:12,792 The only answer 684 00:43:12,959 --> 00:43:16,542 is the overwhelming stench of more recent decay. 685 00:43:16,751 --> 00:43:18,876 The cave, unfortunately, 686 00:43:19,042 --> 00:43:21,334 has once again become a burial site. 687 00:43:21,542 --> 00:43:22,501 And in recent years, 688 00:43:22,709 --> 00:43:27,084 remains of Tibetans have once again been deposited that. 689 00:43:27,292 --> 00:43:31,751 And this is actually complicating the archaeology of determining 690 00:43:31,959 --> 00:43:33,501 what was really there originally, 691 00:43:33,709 --> 00:43:35,417 or what's come after. 692 00:43:38,084 --> 00:43:41,084 In Tibet, the dead received a "sky burial". 693 00:43:41,292 --> 00:43:44,792 This means corpses are "carried away by birds." 694 00:43:44,959 --> 00:43:47,084 Skilled morticians cut up the dead body 695 00:43:47,292 --> 00:43:51,167 to encourage eagles and vultures to consume the flesh. 696 00:43:52,042 --> 00:43:55,042 Local tales suggest that at one time 697 00:43:55,251 --> 00:43:59,084 the cave may have held as many as 400 skeletons. 698 00:43:59,459 --> 00:44:01,251 But over time, bandits, 699 00:44:01,459 --> 00:44:03,917 scholars and the curious have taken much, 700 00:44:04,084 --> 00:44:06,792 leaving but a few remains. 701 00:44:08,459 --> 00:44:12,626 Tibetan rituals of the dead forbid any possible DNA studies. 702 00:44:12,834 --> 00:44:15,626 But John Bellezza believes this could very well be 703 00:44:15,834 --> 00:44:19,167 the resting place of the last King of Guge. 704 00:44:20,376 --> 00:44:22,042 There is some evidence that lends credence 705 00:44:22,251 --> 00:44:24,126 to the idea that indeed 706 00:44:24,334 --> 00:44:27,417 the corpses in the cave were those of the royal family of Guge. 707 00:44:27,626 --> 00:44:30,917 Most of them seem to have been beheaded, 708 00:44:31,084 --> 00:44:32,959 to have undergone execution 709 00:44:33,126 --> 00:44:35,251 so that probably would not have been the case 710 00:44:35,459 --> 00:44:36,501 for the common soldier 711 00:44:36,709 --> 00:44:40,209 who would have fallen on the battleground. 712 00:44:43,417 --> 00:44:45,417 John's theory supports one legend 713 00:44:45,626 --> 00:44:49,167 that tells of a brutal and merciless execution. 714 00:44:49,834 --> 00:44:51,917 After having surrendered his Kingdom, 715 00:44:52,084 --> 00:44:55,417 the King and his ministers were beheaded on the spot. 716 00:44:56,376 --> 00:45:00,167 The royal women also met an equally gruesome end. 717 00:45:04,209 --> 00:45:07,001 There is a poem that purportedly tells of the Massacre. 718 00:45:07,209 --> 00:45:10,001 It describes how the royal women were taken 719 00:45:10,209 --> 00:45:13,084 and thrown from the palace ramparts. 720 00:45:14,626 --> 00:45:17,709 To the people below these brightly dressed princesses 721 00:45:17,917 --> 00:45:21,126 "looked like spring flowers falling from heaven" 722 00:45:22,167 --> 00:45:23,501 The Ladakhi soldiers 723 00:45:23,709 --> 00:45:27,834 yelled and shouted to see more and more flowers! 724 00:45:37,792 --> 00:45:38,959 As for the Abbott, 725 00:45:39,167 --> 00:45:42,542 he met his doom at the end of a Ladakhi sword. 726 00:45:42,792 --> 00:45:45,292 Treachery was repaid by treachery 727 00:45:45,501 --> 00:45:48,959 as he was double-crossed by his supposed allies. 728 00:45:50,917 --> 00:45:53,251 But a mystery still remains. 729 00:45:53,459 --> 00:45:57,001 Why was Tsaparang entirely abandoned? 730 00:45:58,334 --> 00:46:00,167 According to local legend, 731 00:46:00,376 --> 00:46:03,126 an aqueduct was built by the last king of Guge 732 00:46:03,334 --> 00:46:07,417 to bring water from the sacred snow mountain, 80 kilometers away. 733 00:46:07,626 --> 00:46:10,209 The aqueduct crossed through sacred territory 734 00:46:10,417 --> 00:46:12,959 so the local deities became angry with the king. 735 00:46:13,167 --> 00:46:14,751 They cursed him, 736 00:46:14,959 --> 00:46:19,167 and it is said that this was the reason for his defeat. 737 00:46:21,251 --> 00:46:22,667 From the top of the citadel 738 00:46:22,876 --> 00:46:26,417 you can still see the imprint left by the ancient aqueduct 739 00:46:26,626 --> 00:46:29,001 following the contours of the hill. 740 00:46:29,709 --> 00:46:32,001 Even the legend Tsering Gyalpo speaks of 741 00:46:32,209 --> 00:46:34,209 has a basis in science. 742 00:46:34,959 --> 00:46:39,292 Guge is in the shadow of three of the world's largest mountain ranges, 743 00:46:39,501 --> 00:46:41,001 the Himalayas, 744 00:46:41,209 --> 00:46:44,459 the Karakoram and the Kunlun. 745 00:46:47,126 --> 00:46:49,959 Research shows that the climate in West Tibet 746 00:46:50,126 --> 00:46:53,584 has been steadily changing over the past millennia. 747 00:46:54,126 --> 00:46:56,126 And that Man has been on the losing end 748 00:46:56,334 --> 00:46:59,584 of an age-old battle with Nature. 749 00:47:01,792 --> 00:47:03,751 Areas that were once moist 750 00:47:03,959 --> 00:47:06,042 and relatively lush are now dry 751 00:47:06,251 --> 00:47:07,751 and have become deserts. 752 00:47:07,959 --> 00:47:11,626 And in Guge this process is all the more intensified 753 00:47:11,834 --> 00:47:13,917 because it's located in a rain shadow 754 00:47:14,084 --> 00:47:17,709 of Asia's greatest mountain ranges. 755 00:47:17,917 --> 00:47:22,042 Evidence of this ongoing force known as desertification 756 00:47:22,251 --> 00:47:27,834 comes from satellite photographs of once arable fields now abandoned. 757 00:47:29,001 --> 00:47:31,959 But not all of them moved away. 758 00:47:32,126 --> 00:47:34,001 In the middle of the desert-like conditions 759 00:47:34,209 --> 00:47:36,584 that surround modern Tsaparang, 760 00:47:36,959 --> 00:47:41,459 there are still a few places with enough moisture to grow barley. 761 00:47:41,667 --> 00:47:44,501 The fall of the Guge kingdom might not have been triggered 762 00:47:44,709 --> 00:47:47,917 by just one major military campaign, 763 00:47:48,084 --> 00:47:49,709 but rather from a long term 764 00:47:49,917 --> 00:47:53,209 sustained assault from Mother Nature herself. 765 00:47:54,959 --> 00:47:55,834 Even today, 766 00:47:56,001 --> 00:47:58,959 400 years after the fall of the citadel, 767 00:47:59,126 --> 00:48:02,376 nature is still battling with the remaining few farmers 768 00:48:02,584 --> 00:48:06,126 struggling to eke out an existence from the land. 769 00:48:06,542 --> 00:48:07,959 The farmers explain to John 770 00:48:08,126 --> 00:48:10,792 that they have been trying to grow barley in these fields. 771 00:48:10,959 --> 00:48:12,417 During the time of the Guge Kingdom, 772 00:48:12,626 --> 00:48:15,834 the water level was much higher than it is now. 773 00:48:16,001 --> 00:48:18,917 The lack of water has now driven them to the lower areas 774 00:48:19,084 --> 00:48:21,792 right next to the river. 775 00:48:21,959 --> 00:48:23,959 The demise of the Guge Kingdom 776 00:48:24,126 --> 00:48:26,792 was the end of a line of Tibetan monarchs 777 00:48:26,959 --> 00:48:32,542 that stretched from 1630 back to 200 years AD. 778 00:48:32,917 --> 00:48:35,959 But the legacy of Guge lives on in festivities 779 00:48:36,167 --> 00:48:38,376 like this annual horse fair 780 00:48:41,001 --> 00:48:42,959 As they would have centuries ago, 781 00:48:43,167 --> 00:48:46,376 Buddhist monks are on hand to bless the jockeys, 782 00:48:46,584 --> 00:48:49,751 wishing them a successful and safe endeavor. 783 00:48:52,251 --> 00:48:56,376 Participants dip their fingers into beer and flick it heavenward 784 00:48:56,584 --> 00:48:57,959 a sign of gratitude, 785 00:48:58,126 --> 00:49:00,959 and an offering to the divine. 786 00:49:07,376 --> 00:49:08,959 But it is when the races begin, 787 00:49:09,167 --> 00:49:13,126 that we are reminded of the lineage of these hardy men. 788 00:49:16,001 --> 00:49:20,542 Cavalry skills passed down for generations from father to son. 789 00:49:20,751 --> 00:49:25,209 Each the proud bearer of the heritage of his warrior-ancestors. 790 00:49:37,209 --> 00:49:38,834 At a sacred prayer site 791 00:49:39,001 --> 00:49:41,959 Tsering Gyalpo, a native of these parts, 792 00:49:42,126 --> 00:49:46,126 makes his offering to these ancestors and the divine: 793 00:49:46,417 --> 00:49:48,542 This is my prayer 794 00:49:48,751 --> 00:49:50,251 I will make offerings again and again 795 00:49:50,459 --> 00:49:53,876 and give thanks for the blessing and protection provided me. 796 00:49:54,042 --> 00:49:57,959 My spirit offers eternal devotion. 797 00:50:00,209 --> 00:50:02,876 After the fall of the last King of Guge, 798 00:50:03,042 --> 00:50:07,334 Tsaparang became an unpleasant place for its citizens. 799 00:50:08,042 --> 00:50:10,917 The Ladakhis administered the region for 50 years 800 00:50:11,084 --> 00:50:13,542 before being driven out by the Tibetans 801 00:50:13,751 --> 00:50:15,751 and their Mongol allies. 802 00:50:16,501 --> 00:50:20,667 The Mongols did not take well to the deep canyons 803 00:50:20,876 --> 00:50:23,584 and dry lands of Western Tibet. 804 00:50:23,792 --> 00:50:25,959 And they decided to relocate the capital 805 00:50:26,126 --> 00:50:28,834 to higher more open grounds. 806 00:50:29,001 --> 00:50:33,042 With that relocation of the capital of Western Tibet, 807 00:50:33,251 --> 00:50:37,001 Guge utterly falls into ruins and decay, 808 00:50:37,209 --> 00:50:40,084 which has continued till the very present day. 809 00:50:40,959 --> 00:50:44,292 After the defeat and demise of Guge's last king, 810 00:50:44,501 --> 00:50:46,917 the reins of power were eventually taken over 811 00:50:47,084 --> 00:50:49,959 by the spiritual leader of another Buddhist sect 812 00:50:50,167 --> 00:50:52,126 the 5th Dalai Lama. 813 00:50:52,959 --> 00:50:55,167 Ironically, the king's brother 814 00:50:55,376 --> 00:50:57,959 the Abbot who fought for a Buddhist state 815 00:50:58,126 --> 00:51:01,334 had won the final battle after all. 816 00:51:04,167 --> 00:51:09,334 The ancient kings of Guge had a vision of a land of dharma, 817 00:51:09,542 --> 00:51:11,251 of sacred holiness, 818 00:51:11,459 --> 00:51:13,667 which has left an indelible mark 819 00:51:13,876 --> 00:51:17,959 not only on Tsaparang but on all of Tibet. 820 00:51:21,584 --> 00:51:25,001 Their gift of Buddhism remains strong and deeply ingrained 821 00:51:25,209 --> 00:51:29,001 in the memory of what was once a great kingdom 822 00:51:29,209 --> 00:51:32,376 the Kingdom of Guge. 65834

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