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The Alps,

since time in memorial

they have formed a gigantic barrier between central and southern Europe.

The biggest mountain chain on the continent

stretches more than 1,200 kilometers

from the French maritime Alps

to the last eastern foothills not far from Vienna.

The peaks reach a height up to 4,810 meters

The highest of these are in the western Alps

predominantly in Switzerland.

The mountains in the eastern half are significantiy lower.

The highest mountain of Austria, the Grossglockner

is just under 3,800 meters high.

However,

while they strike us as immense and immortal

from a geological perspective,

the Alps are actually not so incredibiy old.

They began to form approximately

135 million years ago,

and like most mountains of our planet

they came into being as a result of wrinkling in the earth crust

caused by one continental plate

pushing underneath another.

In fact,

for a considerable period,

the mountains continue to increasing height

at a rate of about 5 millimeters a year.

Then,

between 30 and 35 million years ago,

this process gradually came to a standstill.

But in terms of the history of the earth

that is not so very far in the past.

By then the dinosaurs had long been relegated to history.

The fact that the Alps are relatively young

explains why the slopes here are steeper,

the peaks more pointed and the ridges more pronounced

than it is the case with other mountain ranges.

There has not been so much time

for erosion to smooth down these features.

But the process is under way

and over a long period

the forces of rain and ice make headway

even against such seemingly indestructible giants.

Naturally,

we are talking here about procedures

that take place at such an unimaginably slow pace.

That we would normally not notice them at all.

However,

over the last decades

certain disturbing tendencies have been noted

because climatic change has a far greater effect

in high mountain regions than in the lowland areas.

Regions which were formally within the permafrost zone

with the ground constantlİy frozen

are today subjugated to alternating temperatures

both above and below freezing.

Rock formations that were held together by ice

functioning as adhesive

until now may thaw out

and be transformed into loose boulders and rubble.

Since water expands when it freezes,

this places additional pressure on the rocks.

Conseguently global warming

not only entails problems for life forms,

but have adapted to the extreme conditions here.

It also constitutes a danger for mankind.

Outcrops of rocks which use to be frozen

and therefore reliably stable

can now thaw out causing avalanches

in which buildings and transport routes

are destroyed by mud or rubble.

If you go up into these mountains in winter

it's very hard to imagine this.

The masses of snow and ice

simply seem too overpowering at this time of the year

when the highland areas are hostile to life,

uninhabitable and apparently lifeless

On the steep slopes avalanches of snow

constitute the greatest danger for skiers and walkers.

The Alps are interlaced by countless streams

fed by the high levels of precipitation here.

The steepness of the slopes

ensures of the water flows at great speed

and this together with the low temperature of the water itself

means it has an extremely high oxygen content.

In most cases,

the mountain streams have a bed rock

since soil and mud are guickly washed away.

This means there are in general few plants in the streams.

But these environments are far from lifeless.

A large number of creatures have adapted to this special conditions.

A numerous species of insects in particular

spend their larvae stages here.

They in turn provide a nutritional basis

for birds such as dippers and gray wagtails.

Here in the mid altitude region,

there are large numbers of these small streams.

Only in the valleys do the bigger rivers form.

At altitudes of between 1,400 and 2,800 meters,

coniferous forests thrive

creating a habitat for a broad range of wildlife.

Not until we descend to about 700 and 800 meters

do we find deciduous trees which,

together with pine and spruce, form mixed woodland regions.

In olden times

alpine forests form the basis of a widespread logging industry

and in many regions

this was an important part of the local economy.

Supplies of timber were plentiful

and the wood was of good guality

since coniferous trees

grow slowly in this harsh climate

producing a finely structured hardwood

which is excellent for construction purposes.

In the 18th and early 19th centuries in particular,

the forests were exploited to such an extent

that the timberline was pushed

considerabiy lower in some areas.

In fact,

as well as their ecological value,

mountain forests also have an important function

in offering protection

they are able to prevent the formation of avalanches of snow,

mud or rubble.

And they also act as barriers to stop

avalanches that have developed,

which is why they are known as barrier woodlands in this context.

When the mountain forest has been destroyed

İt is extremely difficult to recreate it by planting trees.

And since replacing the forest by man made avalanche barriers

is complex and expensive,

maintaining these barrier woodlands

is our high priority today.

The high mountain peaks, such as the Jungfrau Massif

here in the Bernese Oberland, district of central Switzerland,

constitute a completely different world.

The Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau

form a distinctive trail of mountains.

The Jungfrau is the highest,

with a height of 4,158 meters.

These three mountains were climbed for the first time

between 1811 and 1858

and the mountaineers who accomplished this feat

are part of the trend during this period.

Almost all the major Alpine summits were conguered

during the first half of the 19th century.

In contrast, the north face of the Eiger

was not cimbed successfully until 1938.

It places such high demands upon the climber

that it was considered for a long time

one of the last great Alpine challengers.

It has claimed the lives of countless mountaineers

and to this day it is regarded

as öne of the most difficult mountain routes in the Alps.

However,

even at lower altitudes

this region is stunningly impressive.

The Lauterbrunnen Valley

which is located below the Jungfrau Massif

is surrounded by huge, almost vertical rock faces.

A whole series of streams plunge into the depth here

creating spectacular waterfalls.

The best known of these

is the Staubbach Falls

where the water drops almost 300 meters.

We enjoy once again the view from Interlaken

ofthe north face of the Jungfrau Massif

and with a little luck

it should be possible to see from here

one of the classic features of alpine romanticism -

the alpine glow.

This optical phenomenon is created when the red light of the setting sun

is reflected on the lighter mountains of the opposite horizon

causing them to glow.

İt is easy to reach the fascinating mountain world of the Jungfrau Massif

by means of the Jungfraubahn,

a rack railway constructed between 1896

and 1912.

The upper terminal of this line at the Jungfraujoch

is the highest railway station in Europe

at an altitude of 3454 meters.

From here

there is a breathtaking view

of the immense Aletsch Glacier.

With a length of approximately 23 kilometers

this glacier which can be up to a kilometer and a half wide

is the biggest in the Alps.

In some places the ice layer is an astonishing

900 meters thick.

It is difficult to imagine that such a gigantic massive ice

can be in constant movement.

Butlike all glaciers,

the Aletsch Glacier is a river of ice,

moving slowly but surely down towards the valley.

In this case it travels approximately

180 meters per year,

which is about half a meter each day.

As is the case with virtually every glacier in the world,

the ice of the Aletsch Glacier is shrinking drastically.

A glacier has a natural circulation of water.

Snowfall causes it to grow in the upper regions

while in the lower sections,

the ice melts and flows down into the valley as a glacial stream.

If these two processes cease to balance each other,

then the ice mass recedes.

Over the last 150 years

the Aletsch Glacier has lost about a third of its mass

as can easily been seen from drawings,

paintings and old photographs.

Conseguentlİy

glacial shrinkage is a particularlly visible conseguence

of temperature increases all around the world.

Not far from the villages of Saxton in the Bernese Oberland

the Saxton river forms a spectacular gorge

which culminates in the steep rock face.

During winter, waterfalls cover this wall of rock

with bizarre ice sculptures.

In the summer,

this gorge is popular with canyon tours.

However,

enjoying this feature of the scenery can be dangerous.

In the year 1999,

a group of 21 people was surprised by a flush flood in the gorge.

None of them survived.

As a conseguence of this terrible accident,

regulations governing such tours in Switzerland

were significantly tightened up

to insure that there should be no more tragic incidence like this.

A short flight brings this back

to the icy peaks of the nearby Jungfrau Massif.

We now find ourselves at a height of about 4,000 meters.

The monumental rock walls appear within touching distance

and even the summits far below us are covered with snow.

The slopes here are so steep

that avalanches are on regular occurrence.

Anybody venturing to this region

must make sure he is very well informed.

Far below us, shimmer the waters oflake Thun

and the nearby lake Brienz.

The mountains surrounding these lakes

reach a relatively modest height of about 2,000 meters,

hardly comparable to the gigantic Jungfrau Massif

which is now behind us.

We once again fly through the Lauterbrunnen Valley

with the famous waterfalls we have already encountered.

From this perspective

we have a breathtaking view of the rock face.

Reaching up almost 800 meters

which forms the western limit of the valley

As we fly to itself,

we see in the background

the 3,7/80-meter-high summit of the Breithorn

which marks the end of the valley

before we saw one more time over lake Brienz.

We should not forget

that even the lest spectacular sites of this region

have considerable appeal.

The guiet uninhabited side valleys

have little brooks and streams running through them.

Now during winter

it is possible to relish this countryside

on a virtually exclusive basis

because at this time of the year

It is highly unlikely that any ramblers will stray here.

İn locations such as these it is of course guite possible

to be surprised by a snow storm.

But as long as you are properly dressed in warm clothing,

there is really nothing that can happen

except that making progress through the deep snow

can become guite an effort.

On the other hand,

strolling through a mountain forest with a deep layer of snow

is a very special experience.

This beautiful romantic vision

is a hostile environment for the wildlife.

İt is difficult to find food in the mountain forest during winter

Little is available apart from the seeds of the conifers

which still have cones hanging from the branches.

The struggle for survival last for several long months

and many animals will not make it through to the spring.

But this is an essential part of the process of natural selection

and we should remember

that the many animals which do perish

form an important source of nutrition

for the carnivorous predators here.

As soon as the thaw begins in the spring,

the streams and rivers become swollen

to many times their usual volume by the melt water.

The fast flowing mass of water drags stones

and even fair-sized lumps of rocks along with it

and considerable damage can be caused in this way.

But spring is a moody companion here.

It oftten becomes cold again after a short period of thaw.

Sometimes the waterfalls even freeze oönce more

creating bizarre sculptures.

These days some of the more adventurous mountaineers

try their hand

at climbing these frozen waterfalls,

a daring type of extreme sport

that reguires special eguipment and considerable experience

since the ice is far less stable than the rock face.

Finally spring manages to assert itself.

It will still be sometime before the last of the ice melts

and life finally returns to the mountain forests.

But with each day it passes

the thick layer of ice becomes alittle thinner

and before long it will have vanished completely.

İt is in the early days of spring that the first of the lambs were born

setting off unsteady legs to begin a new life.

Keeping sheep is öone of the more traditional

agricultural pastimes in the Alps

where farmers concentrate predominantly on diary farming.

It is only possible to grow wheat in small sections of the valleys,

but the lush meadows in the upland areas

provide excellent grazing for sheep and cows.

While the upper mountain peaks are still covered in ice and snow,

the alpine meadows are now in full bloom.

Summer doesn't last long.

Nature has to move guickly

because it can snow again as early as October.

It is now that the groundhogs awaken from their winter hibernation

which last approximately October to March.

Sleeping through this long winter

when their habitat is covered by a thick layer of snow

and they would be unable to find food

enables them to survive in good condition.

Groundhogs are rodents and distant relatives of the sguirrel.

At öone time in Europe,

they were only to be found in lowland areas,

but the end of thelast ice age

saw them retreating to the higher regions of the Alps.

Today, they're only find in areas above the tree line

where there are no forests.

However,

they do not venture into rocky regions

since they need soil-based ground

in order to construct their subterranean networks of tunnels.

These tunnels are normally between 10 and 17 meters in length

and can be extremely complicated.

Alpine groundhogs live in colonies

and conseguentlİy

it is guitte common to see several of these cute animals at the same time.

Up here

it is too uncomfortable even for groundhogs.

The upper slopes are realm of rock and ice,

although in high summer,

the snow melts for a short period

to reveal the rocks and scree underneath.

Vegetation is so sparse

that it can hardly provide any nutrition for animal life.

And just a few hundred meters lower,

the alpine meadows are now resplendent in their full glory.

It isn't possible for trees or even bushes

to grow at these altitudes,

and conseguentlİy

the vegetation here is dominated by meadows

which provide a habitat

for alarge number of flowering plants.

The type of rock which underlies the soil can vary considerabliy,

dictating which plants can grow here.

However,

the local micro climate also plays an important role.

Altitude,

slope,

exposure to the sun,

and several other factors

can insure that several very different ecosystems

exist in close proximity within a relatively small area.

Even today

agriculture in the Alps remains an arduous business

in spite of the numerous technical aid is available.

It is also unprofitable

because mountain farms in remote regions

are unable to compete with rivals in the lowland areas

which are of course able to function on a far more efficient basis.

Only with the assistance of sizable subsidies

is it possible for agricultural activity in the Alps to be kept alive.

At the same time,

the mountain farmers make a considerable contribution

to preserving the typical appearance of the highland areas

which has been shaped by centuries of agriculture.

The lower altitudes are now

filled with the rich green of conifers and meadows.

A large number of small lakes

gleam darkly in the sun

while magnificent snow covered peaks

tower up around them.

Maintaining an active agricultural sector here in the mountains

is also important for tourism

which is an important economic factor today.

Visitors contribute to the economy of remote regions

helping insure that younger people don't move away

and the population does not consist solely of the aged.

On top ofthis,

alpine villages

are able to cater for wide variety of interests

with ramblers coming in the summer

and skiers in the winter.

The Salzkammergut,

region of the Austrian Alps,

is known predominantly for its numerous lakes.

There are 76 of them in total

and this made the area

öne of the most well known holiday resorts of Austria

as far back as the mid 19th century.

The Austrian emperors were also fond of coming here

from their official residence in Vienna

to relax in the summer.

One of the smaller and less well known lakes

is the Front Gosau Lake,

a picturesgue stretch of water

which has the peak of the Gosau ridge towering over it

reaching a height of 2458 meters.

In fact this summit

is öne of the smaller ones to be found in the Salzkammergut region

and it hardly compares

to the mountains of the neighboring Dachstein Massif.

However,

it's steep rocky cracks.

Here we see the great and the lesser Donnerkogel

form an incomparable and extremely beautiful background

to the turguoise green water of the Front Gosau Lake below.

A hiking path leads from

Front Gosau Lake to Rear Gosau Lake.

This route provides a fine view of the Hoher Casselcorps,

one of the summits of the Dachstein Massif.

The Dachstein Massif which towers over the end of the Gosau valley

is the largest massif in this region.

Its highest peak, the Hoher Dachstein

reaches a height of 2,995 meters.

Numerous cows are now visible on the lush mountain meadows,

but sheep farming is also widespread in the Alps.

Since the upper meadows

can only be used for grazing in the summer,

the animals have to be taken up there in spring

and then driven back down to the villages again in the autumn

where they spend the winter in farmyard stores.

The process of driving the animals down from the meadows in the autumn

is celebrated in festivities with music and dance

and it is an important aspect of rural Alpine tradition.

Among the numerous lakes of the Salzkammergut

Lake Hallstatt is the most famous.

In the town of Hallstatt,

the buildings are constructed very close together.

On a narrow strip between the shore of the lake

and the steep mountain slope just behind it.

However,

Hallstatt is not a farming village.

The town owes İts existence

to the most important of the mineral resources found in the Alps -

salt.

As far back as the stone age, about 17,000 years ago,

this white gold was mined

in the Salzburg mountain above the town.

And in more recent times,

salt from Hallstatt

has provided Austrian emperors with a regular source of income.