All language subtitles for Aerial America Series 1 01of20 The Dakotas 1080p

THERE’S NOTHING LIKE THE STORY
OF THE DAKOTAS--

NORTH AND SOUTH.

TWO VERY DIFFERENT STATES THAT
FORGED THEIR UNIQUE DESTINIES

OUT OF ONE RUGGED TERRITORY.

A LAND OF OPEN PRAIRIE,
\h\h\hANCIENT BADLANDS,

AND TOWERING NEEDLES OF STONE.

IT WAS IN THE DAKOTAS

THAT A LEGENDARY NATIVE AMERICAN
WOMAN NAMED SACAGAWEA

FIRST SET OUT TO GUIDE EXPLORERS
ACROSS THE AMERICAN WEST.

\h\hBUT IT WAS ALSO HERE
THAT THE U.S. GOVERNMENT

\h\h\h\h\hWAS FOUND GUILTY
OF "DISHONORABLE DEALINGS"

WITH ONE OF AMERICA’S
\hGREAT NATIVE TRIBES.

AND WHERE A HORRIFYING MASSACRE
BY THE U.S. ARMY,

\h\hKNOWN AS WOUNDED KNEE,
IS STILL REMEMBERED TODAY.

\hBOTH OF THESE NORTHERN STATES
HAVE MADE THEIR MARK ON HISTORY.

ONE HEALED THE SOUL
OF A FUTURE AMERICAN PRESIDENT

WITH ITS COLORFUL HILLS.

THE OTHER IMMORTALIZED HIM
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN STONE

\h\h\h\hWITH A MONUMENT
TO AMERICAN DEMOCRACY.

BUT WHILE THERE MAY BE A LOT
THAT THESE TWO STATES SHARE,

THERE’S ALSO A LOT THEY DON’T.

IN SOUTH DAKOTA, CORN IS KING.

BUT IN THE NORTH, WHEAT RULES,

\h\h\hALONG WITH A THRIVING
YELLOW PLANT CALLED CANOLA.

THE DAKOTAS MAY BE TWO

OF THE LEAST POPULATED STATES
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN THE NATION,

BUT TODAY, THOUSANDS
\h\h\hARE POURING IN.

SOME COME ON INTIMIDATING STEEDS
AND TAKE OVER ENTIRE TOWNS.

\h\h\h\h\hOTHERS CROWD
INTO GIANT "MAN CAMPS"

TO DRILL FOR BLACK GOLD--

\hLEADING NASA SCIENTISTS
TO WONDER ABOUT CLUSTERS

OF STRANGE NEW LIGHTS
\h\h\hON THE PRAIRIE.

\h\h\h\h\hTHERE’S NO END
TO WHAT ONE CAN DISCOVER

UP HERE ON THE NORTHERN
\h\h\h\h\hGREAT PLAINS,

IN THE LANDS KNOWN
\h\hAS THE DAKOTAS.

IN 1883, A TRAIN WOUND ITS WAY
THROUGH THESE RUGGED BADLANDS

IN NORTH DAKOTA.

\h\h\hON BOARD WAS A 24-YEAR-OLD
STATE ASSEMBLYMAN FROM NEW YORK,

WHO’D COME HERE TO HUNT BISON.

HIS NAME WAS THEODORE ROOSEVELT.

OUT ON THE PRAIRIE,

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE FUTURE PRESIDENT
ONLY MANAGED TO KILL ONE BISON,

BUT ENDED UP FALLING IN LOVE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWITH THE BEAUTY

OF THIS WILD WESTERN LAND.

BY THE TIME HE HEADED BACK
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO NEW YORK,

HE’D BOUGHT A MAJOR INTEREST
\h\h\h\h\h\hIN A LOCAL RANCH

AND ORDERED THIS SMALL CABIN
\h\h\h\hTO BE BUILT FOR HIM

TO LIVE IN WHEN HE RETURNED.

\hIT WAS MOVED HERE TO THE TOWN
OF MEDORA AND RESTORED IN 1959.

A FEW MONTHS LATER,

THE CABIN PROVIDED A MUCH-NEEDED
REFUGE TO ROOSEVELT--

AFTER HIS WIFE AND MOTHER BOTH
DIED ON VALENTINE’S DAY, 1884.

OVER THE NEXT FEW YEARS
\hTHE RESTORATIVE POWER

\h\h\hOF THE REGION’S FERTILE
RIVER VALLEYS AND ROCKY HILLS

DREW HIM BACK AGAIN AND AGAIN.

\h\hTO GIVE HIMSELF
MORE ROOM TO ROAM,

HE BOUGHT AN EIGHT-MILE STRETCH

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hALONG THE BANKS
OF THE LITTLE MISSOURI RIVER

\h\hFOR $400, A PLACE
CALLED ELKHORN RANCH.

TODAY THE RANCH HOUSE IS GONE.

IT WAS DURING HIS VISITS HERE

THAT HE FOUND THE SOLACE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHE NEEDED,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAND DEVELOPED
THE CONSERVATIONIST VALUES

THAT SHAPED THE REST
\h\h\h\hOF HIS LIFE.

\h\h"I WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN
PRESIDENT," HE LATER SAID,

\h\h\h\h\h\h"HAD IT NOT BEEN FOR
MY EXPERIENCE IN NORTH DAKOTA."

ROOSEVELT LAST VISITED
\hNORTH DAKOTA IN 1918.

\h\h\hBUT PEOPLE HERE
HAVE NEVER FORGOTTEN

THE IMPACT THEIR STATE HAD
ON THEIR FORMER PRESIDENT,

\h\h\h\hWHICH IS WHY
EVERY SUMMER EVENING

THE HILLS OUTSIDE OF MEDORA
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hCOME ALIVE,

WHEN THE LIGHTS GO UP AT THE
BURNING HILLS AMPHITHEATER...

\h\hFOR A HIGH-ENERGY,
COUNTRY-STYLE JAMBOREE

\h\h\hTHAT CELEBRATES THE LEGACY
OF PRESIDENT THEODORE ROOSEVELT

AND HIS LOVE OF THESE
\hNORTH DAKOTA HILLS.

\h\h\h\hMUSICALS ABOUT
ROOSEVELT’S TIME HERE

HAVE BEEN A STAPLE IN MEDORA
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hSINCE 1958.

THIS LATEST VERSION
\hINCLUDES STORIES

OF TEDDY PUNCHING OUT A DRUNK
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN A DAKOTA BAR

AND GOING ON A BEAR HUNT.

NOW ANYONE CAN ENJOY
\h\h\hTHIS LANDSCAPE,

HERE AT THEODORE ROOSEVELT
\h\h\h\h\h\hNATIONAL PARK,

\h\h\h\h\hWHICH LIES ON LAND
WHERE HE ONCE HERDED CATTLE.

EACH YEAR OVER 600,000 PEOPLE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hVISIT THE PARK,

\h\h\hTO HIKE AND ENJOY
THE SAME NATURAL BEAUTY

\hTHAT ONCE HEALED THE SOUL
OF AMERICA’S 26th PRESIDENT.

TODAY THE PARK LIES

IN THE SOUTHWESTERN CORNER
\h\h\h\h\hOF NORTH DAKOTA.

BUT WHEN ROOSEVELT STAYED HERE,

THE STATES OF NORTH DAKOTA AND
SOUTH DAKOTA DIDN’T YET EXIST.

ROOSEVELT FIRST KNEW THIS LAND
ONLY AS THE DAKOTA TERRITORY.

IT LAY IN A REGION

THAT PRESIDENT THOMAS JEFFERSON
HAD BOUGHT FROM THE FRENCH

\h\h\h\h\hIN 1803, AS PART
OF THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE.

BACK THEN, NO ONE IN WASHINGTON
EVEN KNEW WHAT WAS OUT HERE,

\h\h\hOR IN MUCH OF THE REST OF
THE LAND BEYOND IT TO THE WEST,

RIGHT UP TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

\hSO JEFFERSON SENT
A CORPS OF EXPLORERS

\hUNDER THE COMMAND
OF MERIWETHER LEWIS

AND WILLIAM CLARK

TO TRAVEL UP THE MISSOURI RIVER
TO FIND OUT.

THEIR MISSION WAS TO SURVEY
AND MAP THE VAST WILDERNESS

ALONG THE RIVER’S BANKS

AND TO FIND A NEW ROUTE
\hTO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

IT WASN’T AN EASY TRIP
\h\h\h\hFROM THE START.

\hA REPLICA OF THE KEELBOAT
THEY USED IS NOW ON DISPLAY

HERE IN THE NORTH DAKOTA
\h\hCAPITAL OF BISMARCK.

\h\h\h\hWHEN THERE WAS WIND
THEY SAILED THE BOAT UPRIVER

AGAINST THE MISSOURI’S CURRENTS.

WHEN THE WIND DIED, THEY HAD TO
USE PADDLES AND POLES

TO PUSH THE BOAT UP THE RIVER,

\h\h\hOR GET OUT AND PULL IT
ALONG THE SHORE USING ROPES.

IN LATE AUGUST, THEY ARRIVED
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN THE REGION

THAT WOULD LATER BECOME
\hTHE DAKOTA TERRITORY.

BUT AFTER FOUR MORE WEEKS
\h\h\h\hOF ARDUOUS TRAVEL,

THE HARSH DAKOTA WINTER BROUGHT
THEIR PROGRESS TO A HALT.

THEY CHOSE A SPOT NEAR A STRING
OF NATIVE VILLAGES

TO WAIT THE WINTER OUT.

TODAY THE SITE OF THOSE VILLAGES

CAN STILL BE SPOTTED
\h\h\hFROM THE AIR.

THESE ROUND PATTERNS
\h\h\h\hIN THE EARTH

ARE ACTUALLY THE FOUNDATIONS
\h\h\h\hOF HOMES ONCE BUILT

BY MEMBERS OF THE HIDATSA,
MANDAN AND ARIKARA TRIBES.

ON TOP, THEY USED
\hEARTH AND GRASS

TO CREATE SNUG EARTH LODGES
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hLIKE THESE

\h\hTHAT HAVE BEEN
RECONSTRUCTED HERE

\h\h\h\hAT THE KNIFE RIVER INDIAN
VILLAGES NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE.

TO WAIT OUT THE COMING WINTER,
LEWIS AND CLARK

BUILT A TEMPORARY HOME
\h\h\h\h\hOF THEIR OWN,

\hA TRIANGLE-SHAPED STOCKADE
THAT THEY NAMED FORT MANDAN.

TODAY THIS RECONSTRUCTION SHOWS
WHAT IT PROBABLY LOOKED LIKE.

BUT THEY FOUND MORE THAN SHELTER

\h\h\h\h\h\hWHILE LIVING
WITHIN THE FORT’S WALLS.

THEY ALSO FOUND TWO VALUABLE
NEW RECRUITS FOR THEIR TEAM:

\h\h\h\h\h\hA FRENCH TRAPPER
NAMED TOUSSAINT CHARBONNEAU

AND HIS SHOSHONE WIFE,
\h\h\h\h\h\hSACAGAWEA.

THE COUPLE HELPED
\hLEWIS AND CLARK

\h\h\h\h\hTO COMMUNICATE
WITH THE INDIANS NEARBY.

FIRST, ENGLISH WAS TRANSLATED
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hINTO FRENCH.

THEN THE FRENCH WAS TRANSLATED

\h\h\h\h\hINTO ONE OF
THE INDIAN LANGUAGES,

\hAND THEN THAT WAS
ALL DONE IN REVERSE.

WHEN SPRING FINALLY ARRIVED

AND THE EXPLORERS CONTINUED ON
UP THE MISSOURI RIVER,

CHARBONNEAU AND SACAGAWEA JOINED
THEM AS TRANSLATORS AND GUIDES.

SACAGAWEA--WITH HER BABY
\hSTRAPPED TO HER BACK--

WOULD GO ON TO PLAY
\hAN ESSENTIAL ROLE

IN THE EXPEDITION’S SUCCESS

\hAND TO WIN FAME AS THE MOST
ADMIRED NATIVE AMERICAN WOMAN

SINCE POCAHONTAS.

\h\h\h\hON AUGUST 14, 1806,
THE EXPLORERS STOPPED AGAIN

\hHERE AT THE MANDAN VILLAGES
ON THEIR RETURN JOURNEY EAST.

SACAJAWEA’S FRENCH HUSBAND
\hWAS GIVEN LAND AND $500

AS PAYMENT FOR HIS HELP
DURING THE EXPEDITION,

BUT SACAGAWEA RECEIVED
\h\hNOTHING IN RETURN.

THEY LATER MOVED SOUTH TO LIVE
AT THIS TRADING POST

\h\h\h\hCALLED FORT MANUEL,
IN WHAT’S NOW SOUTH DAKOTA.

\h\h\h\h\hIT WAS HERE,
ON DECEMBER 22, 1812--

\hSOON AFTER GIVING BIRTH
TO HER DAUGHTER LISETTE--

THAT SACAGAWEA DIED.

SHE WAS JUST 25 YEARS OLD.

LESS THAN A YEAR
AFTER HER DEATH,

\h\h\h\hWILLIAM CLARK ADOPTED
BOTH OF SACAGAWEA’S CHILDREN.

IN A LETTER TO CHARBONNEAU,
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHE WROTE:

"YOUR WOMAN WHO ACCOMPANIED YOU

THAT LONG, DANGEROUS,
\hAND FATIGUING ROUTE

TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN AND BACK

DESERVED A GREATER REWARD

FOR HER ATTENTION AND SERVICES
ON THAT ROUTE

THAT WE HAD IN OUR POWER
\h\h\h\h\h\hTO GIVE HER."

HAD SACAGAWEA LIVED LONGER,

SHE WOULD HAVE SEEN RAPID
\hAND IRREVERSIBLE CHANGE

SWEEP ACROSS THIS REGION.

\hLEWIS AND CLARK’S JOURNALS HAD
DESCRIBED THE ABUNDANT WILDLIFE

\hTHAT THEY’D SEEN ALONG
THE UPPER MISSOURI RIVER,

\h\h\h\hAND SOON FUR TRAPPERS
AND TRADERS WERE HEADING WEST

TO SCOUR THE REGION’S RIVERS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAND STREAMS.

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEIR SEARCH FOR
FURRED CREATURES OF ALL KINDS

KICKED OFF THE TRANSFORMATION
\h\h\hOF THIS THEN-WILD LAND

INTO THE TWO DAKOTAS
THAT WE KNOW TODAY.

WHEN LEWIS AND CLARK TRAVELED
\h\h\h\hUP THE MISSOURI RIVER

THROUGH WHAT’S NOW SOUTH DAKOTA,

THEY NEVER SET EYES

\h\h\h\h\hON ONE OF AMERICA’S
MOST IMPRESSIVE LANDSCAPES...

A PLACE WHERE RUGGED CLIFFS
RISE UP THROUGH THE PRAIRIE

\h\hLIKE THE SPINY SKELETONS
OF GIANT, ANCIENT CREATURES.

\hMEMBERS OF THE SIOUX WERE THE
FIRST TO NAME THESE FORMATIONS.

THEY CALLED THEM "MAKO SICA,"
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOR "LAND BAD."

\h\h\hTODAY, PEOPLE TRAVEL
TO SOUTH DAKOTA’S BADLANDS

FROM AROUND THE WORLD,

JUST TO SEE THESE CLIFFS ERODED
OUT OF THE SOFT SOIL DEPOSITS

ON THE PRAIRIE FLOOR...

\h\h\h\hDEPOSITS LAID DOWN
OVER 28 MILLION YEARS AGO,

THAT ARE STILL BEING WORN AWAY
BY WIND AND WATER

AT AN AVERAGE RATE
OF AN INCH A YEAR--

MAKING IT ONE OF THE FASTEST
ERODING LANDSCAPES ON EARTH!

\hFLYING OVER THIS
STRANGELY SEDUCTIVE

BUT DESOLATE LANDSCAPE,

IT’S EASY TO SEE WHY THE SIOUX
CALLED THEM WHAT THEY DID,

AND WHY FRENCH FUR TRAPPERS WHO
ARRIVED HERE THE EARLY 1800s

\h\h\hNOTED THAT THIS PART
OF WHAT’S NOW SOUTH DAKOTA

\h\hWAS "A BAD LAND
TO TRAVEL THROUGH."

BUT THAT DIDN’T STOP THEM
\h\h\h\h\h\hFROM COMING.

MANY TRAPPERS AND TRADERS
CAME HERE HOPING TO GET RICH--

AND SOME SUCCEEDED.

\h\h\h\h\h\hONE EVEN BECOME
THE RICHEST MAN IN AMERICA.

HIS NAME WAS JOHN JACOB ASTOR.

IN 1828 HE RECEIVED PERMISSION
TO BUILD A TRADING POST

\h\h\hHERE ON THE BANKS
OF THE MISSOURI RIVER.

ASTOR’S AMERICAN FUR COMPANY
\hWAS SOON OPEN FOR BUSINESS

HERE AT FORT UNION.

THIS IS A RECONSTRUCTION
\h\hOF THE ORIGINAL FORT,

WHICH WAS BUILT TO IMPRESS
\h\h\h\h\hTHE NATIVE PEOPLE

ASTOR HOPED TO TRADE WITH.

OVER THE NEXT FOUR DECADES

\h\h\hMEMBERS OF THE ASSINIBOINE,
CROW, BLACKFEET AND OTHER TRIBES

CAME TO THE POST TO TRADE
\h\h\h\hWITH ASTOR’S MEN.

\hIN A TYPICAL YEAR,
25,000 BUFFALO HIDES

AND MORE THAN $100,000 IN GOODS
PASSED THROUGH THE FORT,

A FORTUNE IN THOSE DAYS,

AND ENOUGH TO HELP MAKE
\h\h\hJOHN JACOB ASTOR

\h\hAMERICA’S FIRST
MULTI-MILLIONAIRE.

\h\hFUR TRAPPERS AND TRADERS
WERE THE FIRST REAL PIONEERS

TO ESTABLISH ROOTS
\h\hIN THE DAKOTAS.

\h\hAND IT WASN’T LONG
BEFORE OTHERS FOLLOWED,

\h\h\hCURIOUS TO FIND OUT
WHAT THE VAST OPEN SPACES

OF THE NORTHERN GREAT PLAINS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHAD TO OFFER.

AND THEN ON MARCH 21, 1861,

CONGRESS CREATED
THE VAST NEW DAKOTA TERRITORY.

\hINITIALLY, IT INCLUDED PART OF
WHAT IS NOW MONTANA AND WYOMING,

BUT IN 1863 IT WAS REDUCED
\h\hTO COVER ONLY THE AREA

THAT WOULD GO ON TO BECOME
\hNORTH AND SOUTH DAKOTA.

THE TINY RIVER TOWN OF YANKTON,
WHICH NOW LIES IN SOUTH DAKOTA,

\h\h\h\h\h\hWAS CHOSEN TO SERVE
AS THE NEW TERRITORIAL CAPITAL.

THE NEW TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT’S
HOME WAS MODEST,

A SMALL WHITE CLAPBOARD BUILDING

WHICH HAS SINCE BEEN
\h\h\hRECONSTRUCTED.

\hIT WAS INSIDE THESE WALLS
THAT THE DAKOTA LEGISLATURE

SOON VOTED TO FOUND A COLLEGE
\h\h\hFOR THE NEW TERRITORY.

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHAT COLLEGE IS NOW
THE UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH DAKOTA,

\h\h\hLOCATED 25 MILES AWAY
IN THE TOWN OF VERMILLION.

\h\h\h\hSINCE THERE WAS NO ACTUAL
INITIAL FUNDING FOR THE COLLEGE,

\h\hIT TOOK 20 YEARS BEFORE
THE FIRST CLASSES WERE HELD.

THE OLDEST BUILDING ON CAMPUS
\h\h\h\h\hTODAY IS OLD MAIN,

WHICH WAS AN IMPRESSIVE SIGHT
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hON THE PRAIRIE

IN 1893 WHEN IT WAS BUILT.

\h\h\hBUT THE UNIVERSITY
MAY BE MOST FAMOUS TODAY

\hFOR ITS FORMER STUDENT--
NBC NEWS ANCHOR TOM BROKAW.

THE REPORTER GRADUATED FROM USD

\h\h\h\hAFTER DROPPING OUT
OF THE UNIVERSITY OF IOWA.

\h\h\hTHE CAMPUS IS ALSO HOME
TO THE NATIONAL MUSIC MUSEUM.

\h\h\hINSIDE ARE MORE THAN
14,000 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS

FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD...

AS WELL AS COMPOSITIONS

BY A SOUTH DAKOTA FARMER
\hNAMED ELMER LYLE CAREY,

\h\h\hWHO PERFORMED
AT THE INAUGURATION

OF PRESIDENT WILLIAM TAFT
\h\h\hIN WASHINGTON, D.C.,

WHEN HE WAS JUST 17!

WHEN LOCALS IN VERMILLION
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hASKED CAREY

WHERE HE LEARNED
TO PLAY SO WELL,

\h\h\h\h\hHE ANSWERED:
"OUT IN THE COUNTRY...

ABOUT SEVEN MILES NORTH."

THAT’S BECAUSE CAREY’S FAMILY

WAS PART OF A GREAT WAVE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF SETTLERS

THAT STARTED ARRIVING

JUST A YEAR AFTER THE TERRITORY
WAS FORMED.

IN 1862, CONGRESS PASSED
\h\h\hTHE HOMESTEAD ACT,

\h\h\hWHICH OPENED UP
THE DAKOTA TERRITORY

AND OTHER REGIONS OF THE WEST
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hFOR SETTLEMENT.

\hHOMESTEADERS WERE OFFERED
160 ACRES OF LAND, FOR FREE,

\hAS LONG AS THEY FARMED IT
SUCCESSFULLY FOR FIVE YEARS.

A FLOOD OF SETTLERS
TOOK UP THE OFFER,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAND SOON
THE EMPTY DAKOTA PRAIRIE

WAS DOTTED WITH SIMPLE FARMS,

AS MORE AND MORE HOMESTEADERS
\h\h\h\h\hSTAKED THEIR CLAIMS

AND TRIED TO HOLD ON

FOR THE FIVE YEARS IT TOOK
\h\h\h\hTO KEEP THEIR LAND.

IN THIS NEARLY TREELESS REGION,

\hTHEY BUILT HOUSES WITH
WHATEVER THEY COULD FIND.

MANY USED PRAIRIE SOD ITSELF
\h\hFOR WALLS AND CEILINGS.

\hBUT SETTLING ON LAND
THAT WAS ALREADY HOME

TO NATIVE TRIBES LIKE THE SIOUX
CAME AT A PRICE.

\h\hAS MORE AND MORE SETTLERS
FANNED OUT ACROSS THE REGION,

CONFLICTS WITH THE TRIBES FLARED
ACROSS THE TERRITORY AND BEYOND.

IN THE MIDDLE OF THE 1800s,
\hWHITE SETTLERS WERE MOVING

\h\h\h\hONTO WHAT’S NOW
NORTH AND SOUTH DAKOTA,

AND CLAIMING LAND AS THEIR OWN.

SO IN THE SUMMER OF 1857,

\h\hMEMBERS OF THE REGION’S
NATIVE TRIBES GATHERED HERE

\hON A SACRED MOUNTAIN
THEY CALLED BEAR BUTTE

\h\h\hAND RESOLVED TO RESIST
WHAT THEY SAW AS AN INVASION.

OVER THE NEXT DECADE THE TRIBES
WOULD FIGHT FEROCIOUS BATTLES

AGAINST THE U.S. GOVERNMENT,

AND MANY WOULD DIE TRYING
\h\hTO DEFEND THEIR LANDS

AND PROTECT THEIR WAY OF LIFE.

ONE OF THOSE CONFLICTS
\h\h\h\hSTARTED IN 1866

\h\h\hAND WAS KNOWN
AS RED CLOUD’S WAR.

\h\h\h\hIT’S BEEN CALLED ONE
OF THE MOST SUCCESSFUL WARS

\h\h\hAGAINST THE U.S. GOVERNMENT
EVER FOUGHT BY AN INDIAN NATION.

AFTER TWO YEARS OF FIGHTING
\h\h\h\hTHE SIOUX NATION WON

THE GREAT VICTORY ITS PEOPLE
\h\hHAD FOUGHT AND DIED FOR.

THE U.S. GOVERNMENT
\h\hADMITTED DEFEAT

AND PROMISED THE SIOUX
\h\h\hTHAT THEIR LANDS

\h\h\hWOULD BE PROTECTED
FROM SETTLEMENT FOREVER.

THIS HISTORIC TREATY WAS SIGNED
HERE AT FORT LARAMIE,

JUST ACROSS THE DAKOTA BORDER,
IN WHAT’S NOW WYOMING.

THE 1868, THE LARAMIE TREATY
\h\h\h\hGUARANTEED THE SIOUX

PERMANENT RIGHTS TO 25 MILLION
ACRES OF DAKOTA TERRITORY,

WEST OF THE MISSOURI RIVER.

THE U.S. GOVERNMENT PROMISED
\hTHESE SIOUX LANDS WOULD BE

"SET APART FOR THE ABSOLUTE
\h\h\h\hAND UNDISTURBED USE

AND OCCUPATION OF THE INDIANS."

BUT JUST A FEW YEARS LATER,
\h\h\h\hGOLD WAS DISCOVERED

\h\hIN THE BLACK HILLS,
INSIDE THE TREATY AREA.

\hIT’S ESTIMATED THAT 10,000
ILLEGAL SETTLERS ARRIVED HERE

OVER THE NEXT TWO YEARS.

\hTHEY ESTABLISHED MINING CAMPS
LIKE THIS ONE, CALLED DEADWOOD,

WHICH BECAME FAMOUS

FOR THE BARS, GAMBLING DENS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAND BORDELLOS

THAT SOON SPRANG UP HERE
\hTO CATER TO THE MINERS.

AT FIRST THE U.S. ARMY TRIED
\h\hTO STOP THE TRESPASSERS

AND ABIDE BY THE TREATY.

BUT WHEN SIOUX OUTRAGE
\h\hOVER THE VIOLATIONS

REIGNITED THE INDIAN WARS,

THE ARMY SWITCHED TO PROTECTING
THE SETTLERS INSTEAD.

IN 1877 THE U.S. GOVERNMENT
\hVIOLATED THE TREATY AGAIN

\hWHEN IT CARVED THE BLACK HILLS
OUT OF THE LARAMIE TREATY AREA.

\h\hSOON MANY IN THE SOUTH
WERE PUSHING FOR STATEHOOD

AND TO OPEN MORE OF THE SIOUX
\h\hLANDS UP FOR SETTLEMENT.

THEY SAW NO REASON

\h\h\hWHY THE INDIANS NEEDED
SO MUCH SPACE OF THEIR OWN.

IN 1889, MANY NATIVE AMERICANS

\hWERE FORCED OFF THEIR
LEGALLY GUARANTEED LAND

AND ONTO MUCH SMALLER
\h\h\h\hRESERVATIONS

LIKE THE ONE HERE,
\h\hAT PINE RIDGE.

\hONE OF THOSE WAS
CHIEF SITTING BULL,

\hWHO DIED HERE AT PINE RIDGE
IN 1890, FROM GUNSHOT WOUNDS,

WHILE IN FEDERAL CUSTODY.

\h\h\hBUT THERE WAS
ANOTHER DARK CHAPTER

\hOF THE SIOUX’S STORY
THAT WAS YET TO COME.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAT THE TIME
OF SITTING BULL’S KILLING,

\hA SPIRITUAL MOVEMENT
CALLED THE GHOST DANCE

WAS SWEEPING THE RESERVATIONS

\h\h\hAND STIRRING A REVIVAL
OF NATIVE CULTURE AND PRIDE.

THE U.S. GOVERNMENT FEARED
THESE DANCES WOULD INSPIRE

A NEW WAVE OF INDIAN WARS.

SO WHEN WORD SPREAD
THAT A GHOST DANCE

WAS GOING TO TAKE PLACE HERE
AT THE PINE RIDGE RESERVATION,

THE U.S. ARMY WAS SENT IN
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO STOP IT.

ON DECEMBER 29, 1890, BY A CREEK
KNOWN AS WOUNDED KNEE,

THE SIOUX CHIEF SPOTTED ELK
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAND HIS PEOPLE

SURRENDERED PEACEFULLY
\h\h\hTO THE U.S. ARMY.

BUT WHEN THE TROOPS MOVED IN
\h\h\hTO DISARM THE INDIANS,

A SHOT WAS FIRED--

AND THEN HUNDREDS MORE.

BY THE TIME THE KILLING
\h\h\h\h\h\hHAD ENDED,

SPOTTED ELK AND UP TO 300 SIOUX
HAD BEEN MASSACRED.

TODAY, THEY REST TOGETHER
\h\h\h\h\hIN A MASS GRAVE,

HERE AT THE WOUNDED KNEE SITE...

INCLUDING THE WOMEN AND CHILDREN

WHO MADE UP AT LEAST HALF
\h\h\h\h\hOF THOSE KILLED,

\h\h\h\h\h\hINNOCENT VICTIMS
OF THE LAST MILITARY ACTION

IN AMERICA’S EPIC INDIAN WARS.

IT TOOK ALMOST A CENTURY

\h\hFOR THE SIOUX NATION
TO GET ITS DAY IN COURT.

IN 1980, THE U.S. SUPREME COURT
RULED THAT THE BLACK HILLS,

AND THE REST OF THE SIOUX LAND
DEFINED IN THE LARAMIE TREATY,

HAD INDEED BEEN STOLEN
BY THE U.S. GOVERNMENT

IN WHAT THE COURT CALLED

\h\hA "RIPE AND RANK CASE
OF DISHONORABLE DEALING."

THE GOVERNMENT WAS ORDERED
\h\h\h\h\hTO PAY THE SIOUX

MORE THAN $100 MILLION

TO MAKE UP FOR THE LOSS
\h\h\h\h\hOF THE LANDS.

\h\hBUT THE SIOUX VOTED
TO TURN THE MONEY DOWN.

AS OF 2014 THOSE FUNDS STILL LAY
IN A GOVERNMENT COFFER,

WORTH, THANKS TO INTEREST,
\hALMOST A BILLION DOLLARS.

THE TRIBE STILL CLAIMS
THAT NO AMOUNT OF MONEY

WOULD BE ABLE TO COMPENSATE THEM

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hFOR THE LOSS
OF THEIR SACRED BLACK HILLS

AND THE REST OF THEIR HOMELANDS.

\h\h\h\h\hONE WAY THAT
MORE AND MORE SETTLERS

\h\h\h\h\hWERE ARRIVING
IN THE DAKOTA TERRITORY

IN THE LATE 19th CENTURY
\h\h\h\h\h\hWAS BY TRAIN.

\h\h\hTHE RAILROAD WAS THE ERA’S
MOST TRANSFORMATIVE TECHNOLOGY.

\h\h\h\h\hWHEREVER TRAINS WENT,
CHANGE CAME ALONG FOR THE RIDE.

THE DAKOTA TERRITORY
\hWAS NO EXCEPTION.

TRAINS FIRST REACHED WHAT’S NOW
NORTH DAKOTA IN 1872,

WHEN A LOCOMOTIVE MADE ITS WAY
INTO THE TOWN OF FARGO.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE OWNERS OF
THE NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD

\hHAD FOUNDED THE TOWN
JUST THE YEAR BEFORE,

ON A SPOT THEY DEEMED BEST
\h\h\hFOR A RIVER CROSSING.

RAIL TRAFFIC QUICKLY TRANSFORMED
THIS PATCH OF WILDERNESS

INTO A BUSTLING TOWN THAT’S NOW
NORTH DAKOTA’S BIGGEST CITY.

BY THE TIME THIS RAILROAD
\hSTATION OPENED IN 1920,

THE TRAINS WERE BRINGING

THOUSANDS OF NORWEGIAN
\h\hIMMIGRANTS TO TOWN.

THEY CREATED A UNIQUE

\h\h\hSCANDINAVIAN-AMERICAN
CULTURE HERE IN NORTH DAKOTA

AND ACROSS THE NORTHERN
\h\h\h\h\hGREAT PLAINS.

A CULTURE THAT WAS
\h\hBROUGHT TO LIFE

IN THE COEN BROTHERS MOVIE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h"FARGO,"

STARRING FRANCES McDORMAND

\h\h\h\h\h\hAND WINNER
OF TWO ACADEMY AWARDS.

\h\h\h\hDESPITE BEING NAMED
FOR THIS NORTH DAKOTA CITY,

\h\hMOST OF THE FILM
ACTUALLY TAKES PLACE

JUST OVER THE BORDER
\h\h\hIN MINNESOTA.

AFTER TRAINS ROLLED INTO FARGO,

\hTHE RAILROAD MEN PUSHED THEIR
TRACKS WEST ACROSS NORTH DAKOTA,

WHILE CREATING SOME IMPRESSIVE
ENGINEERING WONDERS

TO OVERCOME THE OBSTACLES
\h\h\h\h\hALONG THE WAY...

OBSTACLES LIKE THIS GORGE
KNOWN AS GASSMAN COULEE.

\h\h\h\h\hKEEPING THE TRAINS
ABOVE THE FLOOD-PRONE GORGE

REQUIRED BUILDING A BRIDGE
\h\h\h\h\h\h1,792 FEET LONG

\h\hAND 117 FEET TALL
AT ITS HIGHEST POINT.

THIS STEEL VERSION WAS BUILT
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN 1899,

REPLACING AN 1887 WOODEN TRESTLE
LOST TO A TORNADO.

UP TO 40 FREIGHT TRAINS
STILL USE IT EVERY DAY.

SOME SAY WHEN ONE CROSSES OVER,

YOU CAN HEAR THE RUMBLE
FROM A QUARTER OF A MILE AWAY.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN 1872,
THE NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD

REACHED THE MISSOURI RIVER

\h\h\hAT A SPOT KNOWN
AS MISSOURI CROSSING.

THE RAILROAD MEN RENAMED
\hTHE TINY TOWN BISMARCK,

AFTER GERMAN CHANCELLOR
\h\hOTTO VON BISMARCK,

\hHOPING TO ATTRACT GERMAN
INVESTORS IN THEIR RAILWAY.

\hTRAINS ARRIVING HERE
BROUGHT IN PROSPECTORS

HEADING TO GOLD MINES
\hIN THE BLACK HILLS.

AND IN 1883, THE GROWING TOWN

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWAS MADE
THE TERRITORIAL CAPITAL,

TO THE DISMAY OF MANY
\h\h\h\h\hIN YANKTON.

BUT PLANS FOR STATEHOOD
WERE ALREADY UNDER WAY,

AND ON NOVEMBER 2, 1889,

THE DAKOTA TERRITORY
WAS FINALLY DIVIDED

INTO TWO SEPARATE STATES,

WHEN PRESIDENT BENJAMIN HARRISON
SIGNED LEGISLATION

\h\h\hADMITTING BOTH NORTH DAKOTA
AND SOUTH DAKOTA INTO THE UNION.

IT’S SAID HE SHUFFLED
\h\h\h\h\hTHE PAPERS,

\h\h\hSO NO ONE WOULD EVER KNOW
WHICH STATE WAS ADMITTED FIRST.

\h\hINITIALLY, SOUTH DAKOTANS
COULDN’T DECIDE ON A LOCATION

FOR THEIR NEW CAPITAL.

\hAFTER 14 YEARS OF DEBATE
AND THREE STATEWIDE VOTES,

\hTHE CENTRAL RAILROAD TOWN OF
PIERRE FINALLY CAME OUT ON TOP,

AS SOME HAD LONG EXPECTED.

THE CITY FATHERS URGED THE STATE

TO HURRY UP AND BUILD
\hA CAPITOL BUILDING--

ONE SO GRAND, NO ONE COULD EVER
AGAIN THINK

OF MOVING THE GOVERNMENT AWAY.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE CAPITOL
\hBEGAN THE VERY NEXT YEAR

AND WAS COMPLETED BY 1910.

\hTHE TOTAL COST OF THE BUILDING
WAS LESS THAN A MILLION DOLLARS.

\h\h\h\hBUT SOUTH DAKOTA GOT
A LOT OF BANG FOR ITS BUCK:

A COPPER-COVERED DOME,
\h\h\hMASSIVE ROTUNDA,

CORINTHIAN COLUMNS,

\h\h\hAND RUSTICATED GRANITE
AND BEDFORD LIMESTONE WALLS.

\hWITH ITS COMPLETION, PIERRE’S
PLACE AS SOUTH DAKOTA’S CAPITAL

WOULD NEVER BE CHALLENGED AGAIN.

BUT ACROSS THE BORDER,
\h\h\h\h\h\hLEGISLATORS

IN THE NEW NORTH DAKOTA CAPITAL
OF BISMARCK

DECIDED TO DO SOMETHING
COMPLETELY DIFFERENT--

BUILD A STATE CAPITOL

THAT LOOKED LIKE IT BELONGED
\h\h\h\h\hIN MODERN AMERICA

AND NOT IN ANCIENT ROME.

\h\hTHE RESULT WAS
THIS ART DECO TOWER

DESIGNED BY ARCHITECTS
\h\h\hHOLABIRD AND ROOT

THAT MIGHT HAVE LOOKED
\h\h\h\h\hMORE AT HOME

IN NEW YORK CITY’S
ROCKEFELLER CENTER

THAN HERE ON THE GREAT PLAINS,
WHERE, AT 242 FEET,

IT’S STILL THE TALLEST BUILDING
IN THE STATE.

IN THE 19th CENTURY,
THE DAKOTA TERRITORY

WAS INVADED BY SETTLERS
\h\h\hAND GOLD MINERS,

\h\h\hSEARCHING FOR TREASURE
ON LAND THAT WASN’T THEIRS.

BUT TODAY, EVERY AUGUST,
ANOTHER THUNDERING HORDE

DESCENDS ON THIS PART
\h\h\hOF SOUTH DAKOTA

TO TAKE OVER A LITTLE TOWN

\hDURING ONE OF THE BIGGEST
BIKER RALLIES IN THE WORLD.

EVERY JULY, MORE THAN
HALF A MILLION BIKERS

FROM ACROSS NORTH AMERICA
\hROAR INTO SOUTH DAKOTA.

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEY ARRIVE
ON INTIMIDATING STEEDS

AND LAY CLAIM TO THE STREETS,
\h\h\h\h\hSIDEWALKS AND BARS

OF THE LITTLE SOUTH DAKOTA TOWN
OF STURGIS.

THIS ANNUAL INVASION
STARTED BACK IN 1938

WHEN A LOCAL MECHANIC
\h\h\hNAMED PAPPY HOEL

AND HIS WIFE PEARL

FORMED THE JACKPINE GYPSIES
\h\h\h\h\h\hMOTORCYCLE CLUB

AND LAUNCHED A MOTORCYCLE RACE.

IT QUICKLY GREW.

RACING IS STILL A PART
\h\hOF THE SCENE TODAY,

BUT MOST OF THE ACTION
\h\h\h\h\h\hHAS SHIFTED

TO STURGIS’S MAIN STREET...

AND SLOWED DOWN QUITE A BIT.

\hBECAUSE IT’S HARD
TO SHOW OFF A HARLEY

IF YOU’RE GOING TOO FAST.

STURGIS’S NORMAL POPULATION
\h\h\h\h\h\hIS ABOUT 6,700,

AND SO HAVING 500,000 BIKERS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hRIDE INTO TOWN

MEANS THAT GETTING A HOTEL ROOM
HERE DURING THE RALLY

IS PRETTY MUCH IMPOSSIBLE.

BACK IN PEARL HOEL’S DAY

BIKERS USED TO CAMP OUT
\h\hIN HER LIVING ROOM

OR PARK THEIR RVs IN HER YARD.

TODAY MOST STAY

IN HUGE CAMPGROUND-PLAYGROUNDS
OUTSIDE TOWN

THAT OFFER COMFORTS PEARL
\h\h\h\h\h\hAND HER GUESTS

NEVER DREAMED OFF,

LIKE HUNDREDS OF RV HOOKUPS

AND THEIR OWN STAGES
\hAND COMEDY CLUBS.

HERE AT THE BROKEN SPOKE SALOON
CAMPGROUND,

\hBIKERS CAN EVEN RIDE
RIGHT IN THE FRONT DOOR

TO GRAB A MARTINI,
BUY SOME LINGERIE,

OR GET A TATTOO.

OR THEY CAN HEAD OVER
\h\h\h\hTO TAKE A DIP

IN WHAT’S BILLED AS

THE "LARGEST BIKER SWIMMING POOL
IN THE WORLD."

\h\h\hDURING THE RALLY
THESE ADULT PLAYGROUNDS

ARE STURGIS’S PARTY CENTRAL.

BUT SOME OF THE MORE
\hADVENTUROUS BIKERS

HEAD OUT FOR A CHANCE TO WIND

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHROUGH ONE
OF THE GREAT LANDSCAPES

OF THE AMERICAN WEST--

THE GRANITE SPIRES
OF SOUTH DAKOTA’S BLACK HILLS.

\hBUT IN THE EARLY 20th CENTURY,
THERE WERE VERY FEW GOOD ROADS,

WHICH MEANT IT WAS HARD
\h\hTO GET HERE AT ALL.

THAT’S WHY SOUTH DAKOTA
STATE HISTORIAN DOANE ROBINSON

WANTED TO BUILD A MONUMENT

\hTHAT COULD LURE TOURISTS
TO THIS WONDROUS LANDSCAPE.

\h\h\hWHEN HE SAW THIS GROUP
OF NOW FAMOUS GRANITE SPIRES,

KNOWN AS THE NEEDLES,

\hHE IMAGINED USING THEM
TO CARVE GIANT PORTRAITS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF HEROES
OF THE AMERICAN WEST...

HEROES LIKE LEWIS AND CLARK,
\h\h\h\h\hBUFFALO BILL CODY,

AND THE GREAT SIOUX CHIEF
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hRED CLOUD,

WHO HAD FOUGHT AND DIED TO KEEP
THE BLACK HILLS OFF-LIMITS

TO MINERS, SETTLERS

AND EVEN THE KIND OF TOURISTS
\hROBINSON HOPED TO ATTRACT.

BUT WHEN DANISH-AMERICAN
\hSCULPTOR GUTZON BORGLUM

SAW THE NEEDLES,

\h\hHE WASN’T CONVINCED
THEY WOULD BE SUITABLE

FOR LARGE SCALE CARVINGS

AND TOLD ROBINSON HE FEARED
\h\h\h\h\hTHEY WOULD END UP

\h\h\h\h\hLOOKING LIKE
MISPLACED TOTEM POLES.

BUT HE SOON FOUND ANOTHER
LOCATION JUST A FEW MILES AWAY

\hTHAT HE THOUGHT
WOULD BE PERFECT.

A GIANT WALL OF SOLID GRANITE,

BIG ENOUGH FOR MULTIPLE
\h\h\hCARVED PORTRAITS,

EACH UP TO SIX STORIES TALL.

THERE WAS, HE DECLARED,

"NO PIECE OF GRANITE COMPARABLE
TO IT IN THE UNITED STATES."

HE ALSO THOUGHT THAT A NATIONAL
TRIBUTE TO U.S. PRESIDENTS

\hWOULD BE MORE APPEALING
THAN HEROES OF THE WEST.

"I WANT TO CREATE A MONUMENT
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hSO INSPIRING

\h\h\h\h\hTHAT PEOPLE
FROM ALL OVER AMERICA

WILL BE DRAWN TO COME AND LOOK

AND GO HOME BETTER CITIZENS,"
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHE SAID.

SOON PRESIDENT CALVIN COOLIDGE
AND OTHERS

WERE HELPING SECURE
\hFEDERAL FUNDING.

\hIT TOOK MORE THAN 14 YEARS
FOR BORGLUM, AND 400 WORKERS,

\h\h\hTO BLAST AND CHISEL
THIS WORLD-FAMOUS QUARTET

OF FORMER PRESIDENTS.

GEORGE WASHINGTON CAME FIRST,

\h\h\hHIS FAMILIAR PROFILE
EMERGING FROM THE MOUNTAIN

IN LESS THAN THREE YEARS--

IN TIME FOR AN ESPECIALLY
\h\h\hPATRIOTIC DEDICATION

ON JULY 4, 1930.

\h\h\hTHOMAS JEFFERSON FOLLOWED,
IN A SPOT TO WASHINGTON’S RIGHT,

BUT UNSTABLE STONE THERE
\h\h\h\h\hFORCED BORGLUM

\h\h\h\h\h\hTO DYNAMITE
HIS ORIGINAL JEFFERSON,

AND MOVE THE THIRD PRESIDENT
\h\h\hTO WASHINGTON’S LEFT.

\h\h\h\hJEFFERSON’S REVISED IMAGE
RECEIVED ITS DEDICATION IN 1936.

\h\h\h\h\hLINCOLN CAME NEXT,
IN A SPOT ORIGINALLY INTENDED

FOR A GIANT TABLET INSCRIBED
WITH AN INSPIRATIONAL TEXT.

THEN ALL HANDS TURNED TO ADDING
TEDDY ROOSEVELT TO THE GROUP.

AFTER BORGLUM DIED,
\h\hHIS SON LINCOLN

\hOVERSAW THE CARVING
OF THE FINAL DETAILS.

\h\h\h\h\h\hON OCTOBER 31, 1941,
JUST 14 YEARS AFTER WORK BEGAN,

THE MONUMENT WAS DECLARED
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hCOMPLETE.

TODAY, EVIDENCE OF THE ENORMOUS
EFFORT IT TOOK TO DO THE JOB

CAN STILL BE SEEN HERE.

WHEN ALL WAS SAID AND DONE,

800 MILLION POUNDS OF ROCK
\h\h\h\hHAD BEEN REMOVED...

FROM THE FINE CHISEL MARKS
\hON THE PRESIDENTS’ FACES,

TO THE ORDERLY LINES OF SCARS
LEFT ON THE SURROUNDING STONE

BY DYNAMITE AND DRILLS,

TO THE ENORMOUS PILES
\h\h\hOF RUBBLE BELOW.

IN 1959 THE MONUMENT
PROVIDED THE SETTING

FOR TWO OF HOLLYWOOD’S
MOST INFAMOUS MOMENTS,

IN ALFRED HITCHCOCK’S CLASSIC
THRILLER "NORTH BY NORTHWEST."

IN ONE KEY SCENE, HITCH
HAS ICY BLONDE EVA MARIE SAINT

\h\h\hPRETEND TO SHOOT
LEADING MAN CARY GRANT

IN THE VISITORS CENTER.

THEN HE SENDS GRANT, SAINT
\hAND VILLAIN MARTIN LANDAU

ON A DEADLY CHASE ACROSS
\hTHE PRESIDENTS’ FACES.

\h\hHITCHCOCK WAS PLANNING
TO SHOOT THIS SECOND SCENE

ON THE MONUMENT ITSELF,

BUT A JOURNALIST SPILLED NEWS
\h\h\h\hOF THE PLANNED CHASE

AND THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
\h\h\h\hSHUT HITCHCOCK DOWN,

WHICH IS WHY THE FINAL SCENE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWAS FILMED

ON A HOLLYWOOD SOUND STAGE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hINSTEAD.

BUT THE BLACK HILLS
\h\h\hARE ALSO HOME

TO A SIOUX MONUMENT, AS WELL.

IT WAS DREAMED UP BY A GROUP
\h\h\h\hOF NATIVE AMERICANS

LED BY HENRY STANDING BEAR,

\h\h\h\h\h\hA CHIEF OF
THE LAKOTA SIOUX TRIBE.

HE RECRUITED POLISH-AMERICAN
SCULPTOR KORCZAK ZIOLKOWSKI,

WHO FINALLY STARTED WORK
\h\h\h\hON JUNE 3, 1948.

ZIOLKOWSKI CHOSE TO DEPICT
\hCRAZY HORSE ON HORSEBACK,

POINTING TO THE HORIZON,

\hBUT WAS ONLY ABLE TO COMPLETE
THE HEAD BEFORE HE DIED IN 1982,

\h\h\h\h\hAFTER WORKING
ON THE GIANT SCULPTURE

FOR ALMOST HALF HIS LIFE,
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hFOR FREE.

THE SCULPTOR TURNED DOWN

GOVERNMENT FUNDING
\h\hFOR THE PROJECT

BECAUSE OF ITS VIOLATION
\hOF THE LARAMIE TREATY,

BUT ADMISSION FEES AND DONATIONS

HAVE ENABLED ZIOLKOWSKI’S FAMILY
TO CONTINUE HIS WORK.

MORE THAN A MILLION PEOPLE
\hVISIT THIS SITE EACH YEAR

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO SEE THIS
LARGER-THAN-LIFE PORTRAIT

OF AMERICA’S GREAT INDIAN CHIEF,

\h\h\h\hWHICH IS EXACTLY
WHAT HENRY STANDING BEAR

WAS HOPING FOR WHEN HE DREAMT UP
THIS TRIBUTE IN STONE.

"MY FELLOW CHIEFS AND I WOULD
LIKE THE WHITE MAN TO KNOW,"

HE ONCE SAID, "THAT THE RED MAN
HAS GREAT HEROES, ALSO."

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE BLACK HILLS
THAT CRAZY HORSE ONCE KNEW

\h\h\h\hHAVE CHANGED IN WAYS
THAT CAN NEVER BE REVERSED,

AND THERE’S NO BETTER EXAMPLE
\hOF THAT CHANGE THAN THIS--

\h\h\h\hTHE LARGEST AND DEEPEST
GOLD MINE IN THE UNITED STATES.

IT LIES JUST 50 MILES
\hFROM MOUNT RUSHMORE

AND IS KNOWN AS HOMESTAKE MINE.

THIS OPEN PIT IS SO DEEP
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAND SO WIDE

IT LOOKS LIKE IT WAS CREATED BY
A GIANT BABYLONIAN ZIGGURAT

THAT’S BEEN PLUNGED UPSIDE DOWN
INTO THE EARTH

AND THEN PULLED BACK OUT.

TO GET DOWN THE ITS BASE,
\h\h\h\h8,000 FEET BELOW,

TRUCKS ONCE FOLLOWED A ROAD
\h\h\h\h\hTHAT SPIRALED DOWN

\h\hALONG THE SIDE
OF THE MINE ITSELF.

\h\hA GROUP OF CALIFORNIA
PROSPECTORS BEGAN DIGGING

ON A TEN-ACRE CLAIM HERE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN 1877,

THE YEAR THE U.S. GOVERNMENT

TOOK THE BLACK HILLS BACK
\h\h\h\h\hFROM THE SIOUX.

BEFORE IT CLOSED IN 2002,

\hTHE HOMESTAKE HAD YIELDED
39 MILLION OUNCES OF GOLD,

MAKING IT THE MOST SUCCESSFUL
\h\h\h\hGOLD MINE IN THE U.S.

BUT WHILE GOLD MAY HAVE
\hTRIGGERED A MAD RUSH

INTO WHAT’S NOW SOUTH DAKOTA
\h\h\h\hBACK IN THE 1800s...

THESE DAYS, NORTH DAKOTA IS NOW
EXPERIENCING A BOOM OF ITS OWN.

THOUSANDS ARE FLOODING
\h\h\h\hINTO THE STATE

TO HELP TAP TREASURE
\hDEEP UNDERGROUND.

AND THEY’RE LIGHTING UP
THE PRAIRIE LIKE NEVER BEFORE.

\hIN 2012, NASA SCIENTISTS BEGAN
LOOKING AT NEW SATELLITE IMAGES

OF NORTH AMERICA,
\hTAKEN AT NIGHT.

THEY KNEW THE FAMILIAR
\h\h\h\h\hBRIGHT LIGHTS

OF ATLANTA, NEW YORK CITY,
\hCHICAGO, AND MINNEAPOLIS.

BUT AS THEIR EYES MOVED WEST,

THEY DISCOVERED A LARGE CLUSTER
OF LIGHT ON THE GREAT PLAINS,

IN A PLACE WHERE THEY KNEW

THERE WAS ALMOST NOTHING
BUT FARMLAND AND PRAIRIE.

THE FACT WAS, THESE WEREN’T
\h\h\h\hACTUALLY THE LIGHTS

OF ANY ONE CITY OR TOWN.

THEY WERE LIGHTS FROM HOUSING
\h\h\hAND DRILLING EQUIPMENT,

AND OF GAS FLARES
FROM HUNDREDS OF NEW OIL WELLS

THAT DOT NORTH DAKOTA TODAY.

IN 2013, THE U.S. PRODUCED

MORE OIL DOMESTICALLY
\h\h\hTHAN IT IMPORTED

\h\hFOR THE FIRST TIME
IN NEARLY TWO DECADES.

AND THE HEART OF AMERICA’S
\h\h\h21st CENTURY OIL BOOM

HAPPENS TO BE RIGHT HERE
\h\h\h\hIN NORTH DAKOTA.

THAT’S BECAUSE THE STATE
\h\h\h\hSITS RIGHT ON TOP

OF ONE OF THE LARGEST DEPOSITS
OF OIL IN THE UNITED STATES.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIT’S KNOWN AS
THE BAKKEN SHALE FORMATION--

A VAST UNDERGROUND POOL OF OIL
THAT STRETCHES ACROSS

MUCH OF WESTERN NORTH DAKOTA
\h\h\h\hAND UP INTO CANADA.

THE EPICENTER OF THE BOOM
IS THE TOWN OF WILLISTON.

SOUTH DAKOTA MAY HAVE HAD
\hITS OWN GOLD RUSH TOWNS

BACK IN THE 1800s,

\h\h\h\hBUT NOW IT’S
NORTH DAKOTA’S TURN.

\h\hWILLISTON IS A TRUE
21st CENTURY BOOMTOWN.

BETWEEN 2000 AND 2013,

THE TOWN’S POPULATION
\h\hMORE THAN DOUBLED,

AS OIL PRODUCTION IN THE STATE
WENT UP MORE THAN 600%.

MOST OF THE NEWCOMERS ARE MEN

WHO HEARD ABOUT THE MONEY
\h\h\h\h\hTO BE MADE HERE,

DROPPED EVERYTHING,
AND RUSHED OUT TO NORTH DAKOTA

TO GRAB THEIR SHARE.

THEIR MASS ARRIVAL CAUSED
A HOUSING CRUNCH SO TIGHT

THAT SOME APARTMENTS
\h\h\h\hIN WILLISTON

RENT FOR AS MUCH AS THEY WOULD
IN NEW YORK CITY--

LEAVING PLENTY OF NEWCOMERS
\hSLEEPING IN THEIR TRUCKS.

THE SOLUTION?

PREFAB HOUSING COMPLEXES

AND TRAILER PARKS
THAT ARE KNOWN AS "MAN-CAMPS."

SOME OF THESE COMPLEXES HOUSE

\h\h\hUP TO EIGHT MEN
IN A SINGLE TRAILER,

AND RULES AT SOME CAN BE STRICT:

NO DRUGS, ALCOHOL, VISITORS,
\h\h\h\hOR GUNS ARE ALLOWED.

BUT MANY WORKERS HERE DON’T HAVE
MUCH FREE TIME ANYWAY

TO DO ANYTHING BUT SLEEP.

THEY OFTEN WORK 80-HOUR WEEKS

TO EARN THEIR LUCRATIVE SALARIES
OF OVER $90,000 A YEAR.

BUT IT’S NOT JUST THE FLOOD
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF WORKERS

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHAT’S STRAINING
THE REGION’S INFRASTRUCTURE.

THE FLOOD OF OIL IS, TOO.

THE BOOM IS SO RECENT, THERE
AREN’T ENOUGH PIPELINES YET

TO GET THE OIL FROM THE WELLS
\h\h\h\h\hTO THE REFINERIES.

TRUCKS DO THE JOB INSTEAD.

\h\h\h\h\hA SINGLE WELL
CAN REQUIRE 2,000 TRIPS

\hIN ITS FIRST YEAR
OF OPERATION ALONE,

AND THOUSANDS MORE AFTER THAT--

WHICH IS WHY BEING
\h\hA TRUCK DRIVER

IN THE BAKKEN FIELD

IS ONE OF THE EASIEST JOBS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO GET.

WITH THEIR TANKS FULL
\h\h\h\hOF CRUDE OIL,

MANY OF THESE DRIVERS HEAD HERE,

TO THE BAKKEN OIL EXPRESS
RAIL HUB NEAR DICKINSON.

\h\h\h\hTHEY DRIVE RIGHT IN
TO ITS SIX-BAY TRUCK CENTER

AND STORAGE FACILITY,

WHICH CAN FILL THE TANKER CARS
OF AN ENTIRE MILE-LONG TRAIN

TO THE GILLS WITH CRUDE
\h\h\hIN JUST 12 HOURS.

IT’S AN AMAZING SIGHT
\h\h\h\hFROM THE AIR.

GIANT LOOPS OF RAIL TRACK,

FEEDING CARS ONE AFTER ANOTHER
INTO A LOADING SHED,

\h\h\h\hSO THEY CAN BE FILLED
WITH FRESHLY PUMPED CRUDE OIL

FROM THE BAKKEN FIELD.

IN 2013, THIS ONE FACILITY

COULD SHIP 200,000 BARRELS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF OIL A DAY

OUT OF NORTH DAKOTA,

WORTH ROUGHLY $20 MILLION,

AND FOR EVERY FULL OIL TRAIN
\h\h\hTHAT LEAVES THE STATE,

ANOTHER EMPTY ONE ROLLS IN,
\h\h\h\hREADY TO BE LOADED.

BUT THE BAKKEN OIL BOOM
WOULDN’T HAVE HAPPENED

\h\h\h\hIF NOT FOR A NEW,
AND OFTEN CONTROVERSIAL,

EXTRACTION TECHNIQUE.

EVER SINCE THE 1950s,
\hSCIENTISTS HERE KNEW

THAT THE BAKKEN FORMATION HELD
BILLIONS OF BARRELS OF OIL.

BUT THEY DIDN’T KNOW
\hHOW TO GET TO IT.

THAT’S BECAUSE IT WAS LOCKED
\h\h\h\h\hIN LAYERS OF ROCK,

DEEP UNDERGROUND.

ONCE, A PREHISTORIC SEA
\hCOVERED THIS REGION.

\h\h\hWHEN IT DRIED UP
60 MILLION YEARS AGO,

\hIT LEFT BEHIND CARBON-RICH
LAYERS OF DEAD SEA CREATURES

IN THE SEDIMENT ON ITS FLOOR.

\h\h\hTHEN, OVER TIME, HEAT AND
PRESSURE FROM GEOLOGICAL FORCES

\h\h\hTRAPPED THAT CARBON
BETWEEN LAYERS OF SHALE,

WHERE IT STILL IS TODAY.

THAT’S WHY OIL COMPANIES
\hUSE FRACKING TECHNOLOGY

\hTO FORCE THE OIL
OUT OF THE SHALE.

FIRST, GEOLOGISTS IDENTIFY
\h\hA GOOD PLACE TO DRILL.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEN, WORKERS CLEAR
A FRACKING PAD AND SET UP A RIG.

NEXT, THEY DRILL PIPES TWO
OR MORE MILES INTO THE GROUND,

RIGHT THROUGH THE SHALE ITSELF.

FINALLY, THEY PUMP WATER,
\h\h\h\hSAND AND CHEMICALS

DOWN INTO THE PIPES,
UNDER EXTREMELY HIGH PRESSURE,

\h\h\hWHICH ACTUALLY FRACTURES
THE SHALE AND RELEASES THE OIL.

THE OIL FLOWS FREELY
\h\h\hUP THE PIPES,

BUT ALONG WITH IT
COMES NATURAL GAS.

\hWITHOUT ENOUGH PIPELINES TO
CARRY THAT GAS TO REFINERIES,

\hTHE OIL COMPANIES BURN OFF
ABOUT 30% OF THE GAS INSTEAD.

\hMANY LANDOWNERS CLAIM
THE FRACKING CHEMICALS

AND THE GAS FLARES

\h\h\hARE POLLUTING
THEIR AIR AND WATER.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hLANDOWNERS LIKE
BRENDA AND RICHARD JORGENSON,

WHO OWN THIS FARM
EAST OF WILLISTON.

LIKE MANY FARMERS HERE,

THE JORGENSONS MAINLY OWN
\h\h\hTHE SURFACE RIGHTS,

BUT NOT THE MINERAL RIGHTS,
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO THEIR FARM.

WHICH IS WHY AN OIL COMPANY

\hWAS ALLOWED TO BUILD
THIS GIANT FRACKING PAD

JUST 700 FEET FROM THEIR HOUSE
ON A NEIGHBOR’S LAND--

\h\h\hONE OF 25 SUCH PADS
WITHIN A TWO-MILE RADIUS.

THE FAMILY SAYS THEIR AIR
\h\h\h\hHAS BEEN POLLUTED

BY CHEMICALS USED AT THE WELL

AND WITH TOXIC FUMES
\h\hFROM THE FLARES.

WHEN THE GAS FLARES BLOW OUT,
\hTHE JORGENSONS HAVE SMELLED

\h\h\hWHAT THEY BELIEVE
IS HYDROGEN SULFIDE GAS

\h\h\hTHAT IS A KNOWN TOXIN
PRODUCED BY FRACKING SITES.

THE CONTROVERSIES OVER THIS
\hNEW FORM OF OIL EXTRACTION

ARE LIKELY TO CONTINUE
\h\hFOR YEARS TO COME.

MEANWHILE, THOSE WHO DON’T LIVE
IN OIL COUNTRY

HAVE OTHER THINGS
\hTO THINK ABOUT.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAND SOMETIMES
THE DAKOTAS’ EMPTY PRAIRIES

CAN HAVE AN UNUSUAL EFFECT
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hON PEOPLE...

PEOPLE LIKE WAYNE PORTER.

IN 1983, PORTER DECIDED
\hTO QUIT GRAZING SHEEP

\h\h\hIN THIS FIELD
ALONG INTERSTATE 90,

OUTSIDE THE SOUTH DAKOTA TOWN
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF MONTROSE,

\h\h\h\hAND START FILLING IT UP
WITH GIANT SCULPTURES INSTEAD...

\h\h\h\hLANDLOCKED GOLDFISH
LEAPING THROUGH THE GRASS,

\h\h\hA GIANT BUTTERFLY PERCHED
ON A TOWERING FINGER, AND MORE,

ALL MADE BY PORTER HIMSELF.

\h\h\h\hWHEN HE’S DONE,
HE LEAVES THEM OUT HERE

FOR PASSING MOTORISTS TO ENJOY.

HIS MASTERPIECE SO FAR

IS THIS 25-TON, 60-FOOT-TALL
\h\h\h\hMETAL BUST OF A BULL

THAT TOOK HIM THREE YEARS
\h\h\h\h\h\hTO COMPLETE.

PORTER BRAGS IT’S AS BIG

\h\h\hAS MOUNT RUSHMORE’S
PRESIDENTIAL PORTRAITS...

\h\h\hPROOF THAT THINKING BIG
COMES NATURAL IN THE DAKOTAS.

AND THE BIGGEST THINKERS
IN BOTH NORTH AND SOUTH DAKOTA

MIGHT JUST BE FARMERS.

\h\hTHAT’S BECAUSE
THEY’RE RESPONSIBLE

FOR MORE THAN 80 MILLION ACRES
OF FARMLAND IN BOTH STATES.

HERE IN SOUTH DAKOTA,
\h\h\h\hCORN IS KING.

\h\h\h\h\h\hFARMERS HERE GROW
MORE THAN 600 MILLION BUSHELS

OF THIS ONE CROP EVERY YEAR.

\h\h\hAND CORN IS MUCH MORE
THAN JUST A COMMODITY HERE,

IT’S A SYMBOL OF A WAY OF LIFE

\h\hTHAT’S PASSED DOWN
THROUGH GENERATIONS...

AND CELEBRATED EVERY YEAR

IN THE SOUTH DAKOTA FARMING TOWN
OF MITCHELL, AT THE CORN PALACE.

IT STARTED IN 1892

AS A PLACE FOR FARMERS
\hTO SELL THEIR PRODUCE

\h\h\h\h\h\hAND TO PROMOTE
THE STATE’S FAVORITE CROP.

THE ELABORATE MURALS
\h\h\h\hON ITS WALLS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hARE MADE FROM,
NOT SURPRISINGLY, CORNHUSKS,

AND ARE RE-CREATED FRESH
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hEVERY YEAR.

\h\h\hBUT YOU WON’T FIND ANY
CORN PALACE IN NORTH DAKOTA.

THAT’S BECAUSE, UP HERE,
\h\h\h\h\h\hWHEAT RULES.

NORTH DAKOTA GROWS MORE WHEAT
THAN ALMOST ANY OTHER STATE,

ALONG WITH MORE BARLEY,
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hFLAXSEED,

AND ONE OF THE MOST COLORFUL
\h\hCROPS THERE IS: CANOLA.

SOAR OVER NORTHERN NORTH DAKOTA
ON ANY DAY IN JULY,

\hAND OCEANS OF CANOLA
STRETCH TO THE HORIZON.

THESE YELLOW PLANTS ARE ACTUALLY
A KIND OF RAPESEED,

\h\h\hWHICH WAS DEVELOPED
OVER THE BORDER IN CANADA

AT THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA.

\h"CANOLA" IS ACTUALLY SHORT
FOR "CANADA OLA" OR "OIL"--

AND IT THRIVES HERE
\hIN NORTH DAKOTA,

WHICH ALONE PRODUCES ALMOST 90%
OF ALL CANOLA GROWN IN THE U.S.

ONCE IT’S PRESSED INTO OIL,

IT’S USED FOR COOKING,
LIVESTOCK FEED, AND BIODIESEL.

IT’S CONSIDERED TO BE
\h\h\h\hA HEALTHY OIL,

\h\hSINCE IT’S LOW
IN SATURATED FATS.

\h\h\h\hFINDING WAYS TO KEEP
THESE FIELDS OF GOLD THRIVING

AND MAXIMIZING PRODUCTION
OF CANOLA AND OTHER CROPS

FOR NORTH DAKOTA FARMERS

IS THE JOB OF STUDENTS
\h\h\hAND FACULTY ALIKE

AT NORTH DAKOTA STATE UNIVERSITY
IN FARGO.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIT WAS FOUNDED AS
AN AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE IN 1890,

THE YEAR AFTER NORTH DAKOTA
\h\h\h\h\h\hBECAME A STATE.

\h\hMANY KNOW NDSU
FOR ITS FARGO DOME,

THE HOME OF THE UNIVERSITY’S
\h\h\h\hBISON FOOTBALL TEAM,

\h\h\hWHICH HAS ONE OF THE BEST
RECORDS IN DIVISION I FOOTBALL.

\h\h\h\hIT’S KNOWN TO BE ONE
OF THE LOUDEST INDOOR ARENAS

\h\hIN THE NATION,
THANKS TO ITS DOME,

WHICH IS SAID TO AMPLIFY
\h\h\h\h\h\hCROWD NOISE--

EARNING IT THE NICKNAME
\h\h"THE THUNDERDOME."

\h\h\hBUT THE REAL HEART
OF THIS CAMPUS LIES HERE

IN THESE GREENHOUSES AND FIELDS,

WHERE NDSU RESEARCHERS
\h\h\hSTUDY EVERYTHING

FROM HOW DEEP IN THE GROUND
\hSEEDS SHOULD BE PLANTED,

\h\h\h\h\hTO THE BEST WAYS
TO STORE HARVESTED CROPS,

\h\h\h\h\h\hTO THE IMPACTS
OF FLOODING AND DROUGHT...

NOT TO MENTION THE BEST WAYS
\h\h\h\h\hTO HEAT YOUR BARN

\hAND KEEP YOUR COWS WARM
WHEN WINTER ROLLS AROUND.

\hMODERN SCIENCE THAT HELPS
FARMERS ACROSS THE DAKOTAS,

AND THE NATION, THRIVE.

BUT WITH SO MUCH FARMLAND
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO CARE FOR

IN NORTH AND SOUTH DAKOTA,

\h\h\h\h\h\hIT’S NOT SURPRISING
THAT MANY FARMERS ALSO GET HELP

FROM THE SKY.

EVERY SUMMER, CROP DUSTERS
\hLIKE THIS ONE CAN BE SEEN

\hBUZZING FIELDS ACROSS
NORTH AND SOUTH DAKOTA,

\h\hSPRAYING PESTICIDE
AND OTHER AG CHEMICALS

TO HELP FARMERS WARD OFF BUGS
\h\h\h\h\hAND OTHER THREATS.

\hTHESE DAYS AG PILOTS
USE SOPHISTICATED TOOLS

TO GET THE JOB DONE,

\h\h\hLIKE GPS TECHNOLOGY
THAT HELPS THEM MAKE SURE

THEY DON’T MISS ANY PART
\h\h\h\h\hOF THE FIELD--

OR SPRAY A NEIGHBOR’S CROPS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hBY MISTAKE,

WHICH CAN LEAD TO HARSH WORDS

AND SOMETIMES EVEN
\h\hNASTY LAWSUITS.

AG PILOTS FLY SO LOW

\h\h\h\h\hTHEY RARELY NEED TO BE
IN TOUCH WITH ANY CONTROL TOWER.

\hAND MOST DO IT BECAUSE
THEY SIMPLY LOVE TO FLY.

AND WHO CAN BLAME THEM?

THERE’S NOTHING LIKE SOARING
\hOVER THE GREAT LANDSCAPES

OF NORTH AND SOUTH DAKOTA...

AND DISCOVERING THE BEAUTY,
\h\h\h\h\h\hSTUNNING SIGHTS,

\hAND RICH HISTORY OF THESE
TWO GREAT PLAINS STATES...

ALL FROM THE AIR.