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The Amazon is the mightiest river on earth.
A thousand miles before it reaches the sea
its main channel is already ten miles wide.
By the time it meets the ocean
it carries a fifth of all the river water in the world
spilling an incredible forty five million gallons a second into the Atlantic.
Every year, without fail the Amazon bursts its banks
and floods an area of forest the size of England.
This huge change in water level
over such a vast area
affects everything that lives here in a dramatic way.
Over its four thousand mile course from the Andes to the Atlantic
the Amazon is swollen by some eleven hundred tributaries.
Several are massive rivers in their own right.
Between them they drain forty percent of the continent.
Three thousand kinds of fish live in this waterworld.
And where there are fish there are fish hunters.
Giant otters.
They really are giants nearly two metres from nose to tail.
Local people call them 'Iobos del rio' wolves of the river.
They live almost entirely on fish
though they can kill caiman and anacondas.
They're one of the top predators of the Amazon
the aquatic equivalent of the jaguar.
Most otters are solitary but these are very sociable.
They live in family groups of about half a dozen
a mated pair and their full grown young from previous years.
The otters bridge two worlds.
All their food comes from the river
but they sleep and rear their cubs on dry land.
So their lives are profoundly affected by the changing level of the river
which has its origins far to the west
in the distant peaks of the Andes.
After a first precipitous rush from the mountains
the river's course is flat and winding.
For the next three and a half thousand miles
it drops barely two inches a mile.
As sluggish meanders twist across the floodplain
their course is constantly changing
creating new channels and lakes.
This is more than just a river
it's a whole river system.
It's October the height of the dry season.
The Amazon is at its lowest ebb
and showing its bare bones.
For just a few weeks each year
sandbanks rise clear of the water
giving a brief window of opportunity
for one of the Amazon's most remarkable animals.
Giant river turtles.
They're one of the largest fresh water turtles in the world
over a metre long and weighing more than forty kilos.
They come back to the same place each year to lay their eggs.
But this is a race against time
because the sandbanks will soon be flooded again.
For two weeks after they arrive
the pregnant females bask in the sun.
This hastens the development of the eggs
still inside their bodies.
When she's ready
each huge female digs a hole a metre deep.
In it she'll lay a hundred soft-shelled eggs.
But all this activity doesn't go unnoticed.
Good sandbanks are few and far between
so early clutches of eggs are often accidentally dug up
by turtles nesting later.
For the vultures too this is a once a year opportunity.
But it only lasts a few days.
The turtles will soon be gone.
In forty five days the surviving eggs will hatch
far quicker than other turtles.
Just a week or two later
the sandbanks will be drowned again.
If the rivers rise early all the eggs are lost.
At the peak of the dry season
broad reaches of river can be almost cut off
as sandbars separate them from the main flow.
Fish become concentrated in these lagoons
so for predators the killing is easy.
Caiman and egrets gather to take advantage of the best hunting of the year.
The fish take shelter in the reeds
but in shallow water they're easier to catch.
Striking low and from the side makes it harder
for the egrets' prey to see them until it's too late.
Sometimes the caiman seem to work together
to herd fish into the shallows.
The shoals of prey become even more concentrated.
The water literally heaves with fish.
With so many to choose from
there's no need to single out a target.
A random lunge can be just as effective
and as each caiman strikes
it panics fish into the jaws of another.
But the good times won't last long.
The caiman must make the most of them while they can.
A feast like this could keep them going for months.
For most fish the dry season is not a good time.
They're on everyone's menu
and their own food's so scarce that many will not eat for months.
Some of the birds are having a hard time too.
Tui parakeets are seed eaters
and the seeds of this munguba tree are a rare treat
The munguba uses the wind to scatter its seeds.
Each one is carried on a parachute of fluff
but if it lands in the water
there's not much chance of it germinating.
These are Brycon sometimes called South American trout.
They're so hungry
they jump at the chance of even these meagre mouthfuls.
They can leap up to four times their body length.
Even at low water the larger rivers are still navigable.
On the Amazon's main channel
seagoing ships can reach as far as the city of lquitos
over two thousand miles from the ocean.
The rivers are the main arteries of travel.
Local people depend on them throughout the year.
Riverside communities rely heavily on fish for their livelihood.
For the people as for the natural predators
low water is also the best time to make a catch.
Laden with silt from the distant mountains
the rivers are often very muddy.
It's hard to see much under water during the day
At night, the problem is even worse.
Infra-red cameras let us follow the action in total darkness.
But how do the fish find their way?
Some, like these Candiru have an acute sense of smell.
They can detect the slightest trace of blood or decay.
Fish trapped in fishermen's nets are easy meat.
Like aquatic vultures
the Candiru home in on the scent of flesh
and strip the carcass from within.
A close relative of these Candiru has the most unsavoury reputation
of any fish in the Amazon.
It's a parasite rather than a scavenger
and it's attracted to blood and urine.
It's been known to swim right up into people's bodies
wedging itself inside with backward-pointing spines.
Other fish deploy much stranger senses
...ones that we can scarcely begin to visualise.
They generate an electric field around their body.
Any object in their path distorts the field.
They detect the changes with receptors in their skin.
This extraordinary sense allows them to find their way
around in the murkiest of water
and to detect and catch their prey.
They also use it to communicate.
Most electric fish generate a very weak field
but not this one.
To local people
it's one of the most feared fish in the Amazon
the electric eel.
Its two metre long body is a gigantic battery.
It can deliver a jolt of six hundred volts a shocking defence
enough to kill a child
and more than enough to stun its prey.
As the rivers shrink to their very lowest
some of the channels are entirely cut off.
Here, predators and prey become even more concentrated.
Territorial male caiman have put aside their differences
to take advantage of the glut of food
but in such cramped conditions disputes are inevitable.
Despite the crowds
there are still plenty of fish to go round.
But that doesn't remove the temptation to steal someone else's.
Even theft is scarcely worth the energy.
The heron keeps its meal.
For fish hunters these are the good times
though not without their annoyances.
Caiman may look armour plated
but there are chinks in their defences.
With only their heads out of water
they're still a target for blood-sucking horseflies.
Even a harmless butterfly can be a nuisance.
The first showers hint at a change of season
a promise of rising water
and better times to come for fish now
trapped at the mercy of predators like caiman and egret
For the cormorants too
the best of the fishing will soon be over.
Released from their dry season prison
the fish will spread out and become harder to catch.
They'll be too scattered to feed a flock like this.
The dry season may be coming to an end but not just yet.
This is only an isolated shower.
It will take much more to set the fish free.
The first rain can even make things worse for them... much worse.
The cold rainwater sinks
displacing warmer and less oxygenated water below.
Decaying vegetation and bubbles of hydrogen sulphide rise from the depths.
This lethal cocktail makes oxygen levels plummet
and fish are soon gasping for breath
The topmost film of water where it touches the air
still has the most oxygen
so desperate fish skim the surface to avoid suffocation.
Most kinds of fish seem to be affected.
For the birds
this may be the last opportunity to make a killing.
The distressed fish are easy prey for the cormorants and egrets.
With so much on the menu they ignore the dead and dying
but not all of these will go to waste.
For the vultures
this is another brief window of opportunity.
Fish kills are sudden and short-lived and the dead fish soon sink.
Black vultures have an acute sense of smell.
The stench of rotting fish draws them to the feast in increasing numbers.
There is too much even for the vultures.
The victims of this natural disaster can number tens of thousands.
Isolated local showers turn to more general rain.
The Amazon basin gets a massive three metres of rain a year
most of it concentrated in just a few months.
The timing of the rainy season varies
from one part of this vast catchment to another
but the result is the same everywhere
a slow but inexorable rise in the river level.
The changing season has a profound effect on everything that lives here.
Swollen by the rain that falls within the basin
the rivers are soon full to the brim.
But there's more to come.
In the cloud forests of the Andes
the annual rainfall can be an incredible six metres.
When that joins with snowmelt from the high peaks
the results are dramatic.
It may be days or even weeks before these torrents
make their full impact on the floodplain forest
hundreds of miles to the east.
But already, animals are on the move.
The rain that has already fallen here waterlogs the soil
and raises the humidity
and that triggers a remarkable migration.
The small creatures of the leaf litter move upwards, into the trees.
Soon, their world will be transformed.
But up in the treetops predators are waiting for them.
For many of the leaf litter animals
the shift to the treetops proves fatal.
So why do they move?
It can take two months
but finally the rain and snowmelt from the Andes make their mark.
The rivers are already full from rain in the lowlands
and can take no more.
Now they overflow into the forest.
The reason for that mass migration from the leaf litter becomes clear.
The forest floods to a depth of ten metres.
The flood changes the lives of everything
that lives here.
Even the giant otters are on the move.
Their dry season dens are now underwater
so they have to move their young to higher ground.
This year's cubs are still too small to swim far
so the adults carry them in their jaws.
Giant otters are territorial
and the group's range has to include dens for both low and high water.
The whole family share the task of looking after the young.
It will be two or three years before their elder brothers
and sisters leave to start a family of their own.
Few predators will tackle a full grown giant otter
but infants can be killed especially by caiman.
Safely installed in their new home
the otters will stay here until the floodwater recedes.
At the height of the flood
Amazonia is transformed.
An entirely new habitat has been created
a waterworld that can drown the forest
for ten miles either side of the main river channel.
At the peak of this inundation
the rivers engulf an incredible fifty seven thousand square miles of forest
an area the size of England.
The trees can stand in water for six months or more.
But this drowning is something that happens every year
and many will turn the flood to their advantage.
Branches where birds once perched now shelter fish.
Freed from the dry season confines of the riverbed
they spread out into the forest.
This is their season of plenty.
Predators follow the fish into the forest
but now it's much harder for them to hunt.
Their prey are more scattered
and have more places to hide.
The hunters include one of the Amazon's most remarkable animals.
The Boto dolphin.
This river dolphin is almost blind
but the water here is often so muddy that eyes are useless.
It finds its way through the branches by using sonar.
Unlike its marine relatives it has a very flexible neck
so it can sweep its head from side to side to scan the water ahead
and to catch fish.
Because there is so much decaying vegetation
the water in the flooded forest is very low in oxygen.
That's no problem for an air-breathing dolphin
but how do fish survive here?
The Pirarucu is the largest freshwater fish in the world.
It can grow to three metres
and weigh nearly a hundred and fifty kilos.
Like the dolphin this giant has to breathe air.
Every few minutes
it comes to the surface and takes a gulp of oxygen.
All sorts of other fish share this ability.
The electric eel absorbs oxygen through the lining of its mouth.
It acts like a lung.
Many of the Amazon's fish have a high concentration of red blood cells
which makes their gills more effective
but they also take air from the surface.
A swamp eel traps great gulps of air in its inflated throat.
Animals that live in the trees
also need special skills to survive in the flooded forest
like being able to swim.
Sloth and spider may seem unlikely swimmers
but their own form of freestyle is now the best way
for them to move between trees.
If you can't swim, climb or fly you can't stay here
so this waterworld has none of the usual forest animals
like deer or peccaries.
The sloth may not be fast
but it's a good swimmer and climber.
The most unexpected creatures take to the water.
Fire ants even turn the flood to their advantage.
When their forest floor nests are drowned
they set sail on a living raft
formed from their own inter-linked bodies.
Drifting with the current
they can end up far away from their old home.
All they need for a new colony is on the raft
including the next generation.
But the voyage has its hazards.
Fire ants have a painful sting
but that doesn't stop fish picking them off
as they drift through the forest.
Eventually the rafting ants make landfall.
This tree will provide a refuge until the waters fall
and they can return once more to the forest floor.
If their eggs are to survive
they must find shelter from the drying heat of the sun.
A crack in the bark is a perfect nest site
and the tree comes with a built-in food supply.
Others have already taken refuge here.
They arrived even before the flood had started.
The lizard has now got competition.
These insects are all on the fire ant menu
but they seem strangely reluctant to jump.
Those that do take the plunge may find
that they've leapt from the frying pan into the fire.
Fish are quick to take advantage of any insects
that fall into the water.
For some, like the metre-Iong Aruana
they're a large part of their diet.
The fish may not have eaten for months
so now it's time to fatten up.
Wind and rain dislodge a steady supply of insects
from the crowded canopy above.
Even if it's not actually in the water
an insect still may not be safe.
All sorts of other fish make the most of the windfalls.
Needle fish cruise the surface picking off anything small.
Like some other fish in the Amazon
and the dolphins these little fish have a marine origin.
They spend most of their time near the water surface
hunting by sight.
That slim profile may help to camouflage them.
Their long 'beak' is ideal for seizing prey.
The rising water triggers an event
that will affect the lives of almost everything that lives here.
It's now that the trees in the flooded forest fruit.
Many trees depend on the flood to disperse their seeds.
By the time they germinate
the water will have carried them far away from their parent tree.
But drifting with the flow isn't the only way seeds can travel.
In this strange new world
some trees use fish to scatter their seed.
The fish eat the fleshy part of the fruit
but the hard seeds pass through their gut unharmed.
This is a good time for fish.
They gather wherever fruit falls.
And where there are fish there are fishers.
Most of the predatory birds have gone
but not this one a little green heron.
Most fruit-eaters have an equal partnership with the trees.
They spread their seeds in return for food.
But some fish don't play by the rules.
They eat the seeds
crunching them up and destroying rather than dispersing them.
Tambaqui have a powerful sense of smell to lead them to fruiting trees.
They have powerful jaws, too
well able to crush hard seeds such as this walnut-like supacaio.
Little of what they eat will ever get the chance to germinate.
The flood is also a good time for the Uakari.
These monkeys live in loose groups of thirty to fifty.
They seldom come down to the ground
preferring to travel through the treetops in elegant leaps and bounds.
So when the forest floods
they have no need to swim.
These bizarre monkeys live only in floodplain forests
where they take full advantage of the flush of new fruit.
Local people call this 'the English monkey'.
Its red face reminds them of a gin-swilling white man
who's been out too long in the sun.
In fact the red face is a sexual signal
a sign of potency and good health.
Uakaris are one of the few monkeys
that live in this riverine forest all year round
surviving on leaves and unripe fruit.
With their strong jaws
they can tackle food that would be too tough for other animals.
The seasonal flooding of the forest leaves nothing untouched.
Everything that lives here has to adapt... or move on.
Remarkably people stay here right through the year.
Their houses are built on stilts or rafts
to raise them above the flood
as are their chicken coups.
Watering the plants may be easy
but a floating platform is now the only place to grow vegetables.
This is a challenging time.
Most people depend on fish
but the shoals of the dry season are scattered through the forest
and so harder to catch.
All sorts of predator are having a hard time.
Even fearsome hunters like piranhas are reduced to scavenging for scraps.
Of all the Amazon's fish
these have the most notorious reputation.
They could strip a chicken to the bone in seconds
if it were careless enough to fall in.
Living on the water does have some advantages
at least for children
though most of us wouldn't
want piranhas in our swimming pool.
In fact
their ferocious reputation is undeserved.
Only in the dry season
when they're concentrated in landlocked pools
are they truly dangerous
So for now it's safe to swim.
People can live without dry land
at least for a while but otters can't.
They need a dry den to sleep in and rear their young.
They're now deep in the flooded forest
well away from the open river
hunting fish hidden in the trees.
The easy times of the dry season may have gone
but otters are supreme predators.
Their webbed feet and paddle-like tails
their strength and agility make them a match for even the most elusive fish.
If fish are hard pressed to escape an otter hunting alone
they're even less able to get away when they hunt as a pack.
Often the whole family fishes together
driving their prey into a tight shoal
or trapping them against a bank.
The rewards of communal fishing
are one of the most important benefits of family life.
Over the months to come
the floodwater will slowly drain from the forest.
The rivers will once again be confined to their channels
and the otters will return to their dry season dens.
Giant otters are an indicator of a healthy river.
Only where they have a plentiful supply of fish
and can live undisturbed do they survive.
There are many threats to the world's last wild places
but the sheer scale of the Amazon could be its salvation.
It's far too mighty to control dam, or divert.
The massive yearly flood makes it a hostile home
for all but a few people
and means this watery wilderness may always remain untamed.
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