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1
00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:04,800
Go on! Yeah, yeah, yeah!
2
00:00:04,800 --> 00:00:08,360
Like that?
LAUGHTER
3
00:00:10,040 --> 00:00:12,160
Look at me. I'm covered.
4
00:00:13,320 --> 00:00:16,040
'In the most remote places
on Earth,
5
00:00:16,040 --> 00:00:19,760
'people depend on their animals
for survival.
6
00:00:21,640 --> 00:00:25,040
'A few years ago, I moved to
a farm in the Welsh hills.
7
00:00:25,040 --> 00:00:29,680
'I've become fascinated by the bond
between shepherd and flock.
8
00:00:30,680 --> 00:00:34,720
'Now, I'm going to explore this
relationship's ancient origins.'
9
00:00:34,720 --> 00:00:37,520
I could have been standing here
500 years ago
10
00:00:37,520 --> 00:00:40,160
and witnessed exactly that
same scene.
11
00:00:40,160 --> 00:00:44,120
'And I want to look at
the future of herding.'
12
00:00:44,120 --> 00:00:46,920
There is sex going on
in every direction.
13
00:00:48,000 --> 00:00:50,600
Have I just made a sheep?
14
00:00:51,840 --> 00:00:55,360
'My journey begins in the mountains
of Afghanistan.'
15
00:00:55,360 --> 00:00:58,840
The air has a real biting chill
to it.
16
00:00:58,840 --> 00:01:02,920
'The shepherds here live as they
have done for a thousand years.'
17
00:01:02,920 --> 00:01:04,760
They're such a smooth ride.
18
00:01:04,760 --> 00:01:07,280
They seem to have built-in
shock absorbers.
19
00:01:07,280 --> 00:01:11,520
It is an exhausting way of life
and it's very cold
20
00:01:11,520 --> 00:01:14,600
and I would do almost anything
for a hot bath.
21
00:01:15,600 --> 00:01:19,640
The admiration that I have for these
people really knows no bounds.
22
00:01:19,640 --> 00:01:24,440
'I want to look back in time, to
experience an ancient way of life,
23
00:01:24,440 --> 00:01:28,320
'and see if it still has a place
in the 21st century.'
24
00:01:45,760 --> 00:01:48,520
'I'm in transit,
heading to the airport
25
00:01:48,520 --> 00:01:52,040
'and driving along one of the most
dangerous roads in the world.
26
00:01:52,040 --> 00:01:55,880
'Three days ago, a suicide bomber
killed 12 ex-pat workers
27
00:01:55,880 --> 00:01:58,040
'a couple of miles from here.
28
00:01:58,040 --> 00:02:01,040
'Kabul is a city on the edge.'
29
00:02:03,000 --> 00:02:06,280
This is the riskiest thing,
probably, that we're doing
30
00:02:06,280 --> 00:02:09,040
on our whole three-week trip.
31
00:02:10,520 --> 00:02:13,840
You're told all the things
to look out for
32
00:02:13,840 --> 00:02:16,520
and all the things not to do
and, erm...
33
00:02:16,520 --> 00:02:20,440
but once you're here,
you still feel slightly helpless
34
00:02:20,440 --> 00:02:23,040
even though you've put everything
in place
35
00:02:23,040 --> 00:02:26,040
to try and make sure that things
are safe.
36
00:02:27,040 --> 00:02:31,040
'Being here is really unnerving,
but I have to pass through Kabul
37
00:02:31,040 --> 00:02:35,040
'to get to some of the most
traditional shepherds on Earth.'
38
00:02:37,280 --> 00:02:41,040
We're now entering the airport
complex, by the looks of things,
39
00:02:41,040 --> 00:02:46,040
and, erm, you can see, maybe,
that it's bristling with security.
40
00:02:46,040 --> 00:02:50,520
But, cars piled up in one place,
does that make us a target?
41
00:02:50,520 --> 00:02:52,320
You just don't know.
42
00:03:02,920 --> 00:03:08,240
'After five security checks,
we finally get to our charter plane.
43
00:03:08,240 --> 00:03:11,520
'That's the most stressful part
of the journey over,
44
00:03:11,520 --> 00:03:14,040
'but it's going to take me
two more days
45
00:03:14,040 --> 00:03:17,040
'to get to the shepherds
I want to live with.'
46
00:03:17,040 --> 00:03:22,040
We're going to fly 250 kilometres
north-east to the Wakhan Corridor.
47
00:03:22,040 --> 00:03:26,040
By all accounts, it's a spectacular
flight through the mountains
48
00:03:26,040 --> 00:03:29,040
and it's going to take us
to one of the most remote
49
00:03:29,040 --> 00:03:32,400
and unexplored regions
of Afghanistan.
50
00:03:57,800 --> 00:04:01,520
'This rugged land is one of
the last places in the world
51
00:04:01,520 --> 00:04:04,520
'where you can find truly
traditional shepherds
52
00:04:04,520 --> 00:04:07,640
'whose way of life goes back
to ancient times.'
53
00:04:08,640 --> 00:04:15,600
When you look across at all this
incredible natural beauty,
54
00:04:15,600 --> 00:04:20,040
it's hard to think that when
you say the word "Afghanistan"
55
00:04:20,040 --> 00:04:26,120
to almost anybody, all they think
about is war and strife and terror,
56
00:04:26,120 --> 00:04:30,040
and yet...from here,
57
00:04:30,040 --> 00:04:37,040
it just looks like a place
of indescribable mountainous beauty.
58
00:04:39,520 --> 00:04:42,520
'We're flying across
the western edge of the Himalayas,
59
00:04:42,520 --> 00:04:45,280
'heading towards
the Wakhan Corridor,
60
00:04:45,280 --> 00:04:47,560
'home of the Wakhi shepherds.
61
00:04:52,760 --> 00:04:56,520
'This narrow slither
of mountainous Afghani territory
62
00:04:56,520 --> 00:05:00,280
'is a legacy of 19th century
imperial rivalry.
63
00:05:00,280 --> 00:05:04,520
'Britain and Russia declared that
their empires must never meet
64
00:05:04,520 --> 00:05:08,520
'and so the Wakhan Corridor was
created as a neutral buffer zone
65
00:05:08,520 --> 00:05:13,040
'between what is now Tajikistan
and Pakistan.'
66
00:05:22,080 --> 00:05:26,000
We are literally, apparently,
somewhere near the airstrip.
67
00:05:26,000 --> 00:05:29,520
I can't see it. All I can see
is rocks and mountains
68
00:05:29,520 --> 00:05:32,160
and this crazy landscape.
69
00:05:33,520 --> 00:05:35,200
Oh, my God!
70
00:05:42,640 --> 00:05:45,040
And we're on the ground.
71
00:05:52,920 --> 00:05:56,040
Wow. We're in the Wakhan...
72
00:05:57,560 --> 00:06:00,520
..and there's even
a welcoming party.
73
00:06:16,040 --> 00:06:18,040
Do you want to take it?
74
00:06:24,040 --> 00:06:26,040
Salaam. Salaam.
75
00:06:26,040 --> 00:06:27,760
Salaam alaikum.
76
00:06:28,760 --> 00:06:30,480
Salaam alaikum.
77
00:06:30,480 --> 00:06:35,280
'This region is so remote, it was
never captured by the Taliban.
78
00:06:35,280 --> 00:06:38,040
'There are no soldiers here,
no guns.
79
00:06:38,040 --> 00:06:41,040
'This feels like a completely
different country -
80
00:06:41,040 --> 00:06:43,600
'a different world to Kabul.'
81
00:06:43,600 --> 00:06:46,520
It's ready? OK. Well, I'm ready.
82
00:06:46,520 --> 00:06:48,400
Let's go.
83
00:06:51,400 --> 00:06:53,280
This man, his name?
84
00:06:53,280 --> 00:06:55,720
Shambey? Shambey.
85
00:06:55,720 --> 00:06:58,040
Shambey. Ah, Shambey.
86
00:07:06,480 --> 00:07:11,520
'We drive up the Wakhan Valley,
passing donkeys and cows.
87
00:07:11,520 --> 00:07:16,040
'But, as yet, there's no sign
of any sheep or any shepherds.
88
00:07:19,680 --> 00:07:23,520
'We're now 3,000 metres
above sea level.
89
00:07:23,520 --> 00:07:26,920
'It feels like the roof
of the world.'
90
00:07:26,920 --> 00:07:30,440
The air is clear and crisp and sharp
91
00:07:30,440 --> 00:07:33,680
and a landscape that just takes
your breath away.
92
00:07:33,680 --> 00:07:37,440
You don't really think there are
places like this left in the world.
93
00:07:37,440 --> 00:07:42,520
Down in the valley here is the
heartland of the Wakhan communities
94
00:07:42,520 --> 00:07:46,520
but no sign of the sheep that
basically allow these people
95
00:07:46,520 --> 00:07:51,040
to survive in a spectacular but,
nonetheless, harsh environment.
96
00:07:51,040 --> 00:07:53,280
So where are those sheep?
97
00:07:53,280 --> 00:07:57,520
Well, in the summer,
they're driven up, staggeringly,
98
00:07:57,520 --> 00:08:02,040
over those mountains into
what is called the Big Pamir -
99
00:08:02,040 --> 00:08:04,040
these huge valleys.
100
00:08:04,040 --> 00:08:07,920
To go and find the Wakhan shepherds,
I've got to go there too.
101
00:08:11,960 --> 00:08:16,520
'The Wakhi have lived in this valley
for 2,500 years or more.
102
00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:21,240
'Wheat is the staple crop
and mid-September is harvest time.
103
00:08:21,240 --> 00:08:25,480
'It feels like I've stepped
into the Middle Ages.
104
00:08:26,800 --> 00:08:29,280
'The valley is only
a few miles wide.
105
00:08:29,280 --> 00:08:33,040
'There's no room to graze sheep
as well as grow crops
106
00:08:33,040 --> 00:08:36,840
'so, earlier in the summer,
the Wakhi divided into two teams.
107
00:08:36,840 --> 00:08:40,040
'Some stayed down here
in their villages to farm,
108
00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:44,040
'while others went up to
the mountain pastures to herd.
109
00:08:45,400 --> 00:08:50,280
'It's a tough, 20-mile trek
up to the shepherds.
110
00:08:50,280 --> 00:08:53,760
'The film crew and I are not exactly
travelling light
111
00:08:53,760 --> 00:08:56,680
'so we've hired some pack animals
and their owners
112
00:08:56,680 --> 00:09:00,080
'to help us on the final leg
of our journey.'
113
00:09:04,240 --> 00:09:07,040
We've got nine yaks and four horses
114
00:09:07,040 --> 00:09:11,040
but there's me, there's the crew,
and then our support team
115
00:09:11,040 --> 00:09:15,040
and all the guys who are
looking after their animals.
116
00:09:15,040 --> 00:09:20,360
Suddenly, our little band has
swollen to a good number of people.
117
00:09:39,000 --> 00:09:42,040
'Yaks are the Wakhis' 4x4s.
118
00:09:42,040 --> 00:09:46,520
'These hairy, cow-like beasts
can cover almost any terrain,
119
00:09:46,520 --> 00:09:49,800
'though at a rather gentle,
sedate pace.'
120
00:09:56,040 --> 00:10:00,040
It's this route that many
of the Wakhan shepherds
121
00:10:00,040 --> 00:10:03,040
will take at the beginning
of every summer...
122
00:10:04,040 --> 00:10:08,480
..to bring their flocks up
to the good grazing lands.
123
00:10:10,920 --> 00:10:14,040
'These mountain paths
were once used by merchants
124
00:10:14,040 --> 00:10:17,040
'following the Silk Road
from Europe to China.
125
00:10:17,040 --> 00:10:20,040
'Marco Polo passed close by.
126
00:10:20,040 --> 00:10:23,520
'He described how wild animal horns
marked the route
127
00:10:23,520 --> 00:10:26,040
'and it doesn't look like much
has changed
128
00:10:26,040 --> 00:10:29,520
'since he was here
almost 800 years ago.
129
00:10:35,040 --> 00:10:39,760
'After trekking for six hours, we're
halfway to the summer pastures.
130
00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:42,680
'We stop for the night
at a shepherds' hut.'
131
00:10:58,520 --> 00:11:00,960
'I wake up to a light dusting
of snow.
132
00:11:00,960 --> 00:11:04,280
'My first night under canvas
was very cold
133
00:11:04,280 --> 00:11:09,040
'and the thin mountain air is
having a strange effect on my body.'
134
00:11:10,040 --> 00:11:14,040
I'm doing this because
we're at 4,000 metres
135
00:11:14,040 --> 00:11:17,200
and I always swell up at altitude.
It's nice isn't it?
136
00:11:18,960 --> 00:11:21,880
'But there's no time to worry
about a puffy face.'
137
00:11:24,040 --> 00:11:28,520
If snow has reached the areas
where the shepherds are,
138
00:11:28,520 --> 00:11:32,840
they might be thinking about packing
up and moving to lower elevations
139
00:11:32,840 --> 00:11:36,040
so the big worry at this stage
is that we've done this climb
140
00:11:36,040 --> 00:11:39,400
for nothing, and that the shepherds
would have already moved.
141
00:11:44,080 --> 00:11:47,320
'I want to get to the pastures
as soon as possible
142
00:11:47,320 --> 00:11:49,240
'so we pick up the pace.
143
00:11:59,000 --> 00:12:00,880
'We stop to rest the animals
144
00:12:00,880 --> 00:12:04,040
'and I show the men some pictures
from my farm.'
145
00:12:04,040 --> 00:12:05,760
LAUGHTER
146
00:12:05,760 --> 00:12:08,760
These are Welsh sheep,
not Wakhan sheep!
147
00:12:09,760 --> 00:12:13,040
'With all the troubles
in the rest of Afghanistan,
148
00:12:13,040 --> 00:12:16,040
'I want to know what life is like
for the Wakhi.'
149
00:12:16,040 --> 00:12:19,120
Is it very hard up in the mountains?
150
00:12:46,520 --> 00:12:49,520
'The Wakhi may be far
from the horrors of war,
151
00:12:49,520 --> 00:12:52,280
'but living here
is by no means easy.
152
00:12:54,320 --> 00:12:57,040
'At 4,600 metres
153
00:12:57,040 --> 00:13:01,520
'we get our first spectacular
view of the mountain pastures
154
00:13:01,520 --> 00:13:03,960
'known as the Big Pamir.'
155
00:13:06,440 --> 00:13:10,280
This is what we've climbed to see.
156
00:13:10,280 --> 00:13:14,040
This giant U-shaped valley,
157
00:13:14,040 --> 00:13:17,760
a flat expanse of rich grazing land
158
00:13:17,760 --> 00:13:23,920
and every bit of it will be used
by the Wakhan shepherds.
159
00:13:24,920 --> 00:13:27,520
'There may be plenty of space
for animals
160
00:13:27,520 --> 00:13:31,520
'but it looks more like a moonscape
than lush pasture.
161
00:13:34,520 --> 00:13:37,080
'We drop down into the Big Pamir.
162
00:13:39,040 --> 00:13:42,040
'Ahead of us, at last,
is Mulung-dhan -
163
00:13:42,040 --> 00:13:44,520
'one of the Wakhis' summer camps.
164
00:13:44,520 --> 00:13:48,520
'I want to find out what it's like
to herd in a world
165
00:13:48,520 --> 00:13:50,760
'that is very different from mine.
166
00:13:50,760 --> 00:13:54,360
'And this is a far cry
from the Welsh hills.'
167
00:13:54,360 --> 00:13:58,040
The Wakhan have an association
and we have one of the members
168
00:13:58,040 --> 00:14:01,040
travelling with us
and he's gone ahead on a horse
169
00:14:01,040 --> 00:14:03,520
to let the village know
that we are arriving
170
00:14:03,520 --> 00:14:07,040
and, hopefully, to give us
permission to enter the village.
171
00:14:07,040 --> 00:14:11,560
As you can see, there are definitely
sheep here so that's a good thing.
172
00:14:11,560 --> 00:14:15,040
However, what's not so good is
what's coming along the valley
173
00:14:15,040 --> 00:14:19,040
behind us, which looks like
the beginnings of a snowstorm.
174
00:14:19,040 --> 00:14:22,760
So I think we have to hope
that they will let us stay
175
00:14:22,760 --> 00:14:24,680
at least for one night.
176
00:14:33,000 --> 00:14:35,040
Salaam alaikum.
177
00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:37,040
Salaam.
178
00:14:37,040 --> 00:14:40,520
'We've been given the OK
to stay in the camp.'
179
00:14:40,520 --> 00:14:42,720
Salaam alaikum.
180
00:14:45,520 --> 00:14:47,280
Wow.
181
00:14:47,280 --> 00:14:49,520
Salaam alaikum.
182
00:15:03,040 --> 00:15:05,040
Salaam alaikum.
183
00:15:06,040 --> 00:15:07,840
Salaam alaikum.
184
00:15:08,840 --> 00:15:11,040
So this is your son?
185
00:15:11,040 --> 00:15:13,040
Yeah. And this...?
186
00:15:15,040 --> 00:15:17,520
And your son. And this...?
187
00:15:18,520 --> 00:15:20,920
This is your husband.
188
00:15:30,080 --> 00:15:32,280
I love their decoration.
189
00:15:34,520 --> 00:15:38,160
'Some old sweet wrappers add
a splash of colour to the yurt.
190
00:15:43,040 --> 00:15:46,520
'Choi - local tea - is prepared.'
191
00:15:46,520 --> 00:15:49,920
So this is salt?
192
00:15:49,920 --> 00:15:53,520
This is milk. Yeah.
This is tea. Yeah.
193
00:15:53,520 --> 00:15:56,520
'Salty tea may not sound
very appetising,
194
00:15:56,520 --> 00:15:59,040
'but I'm desperate for a cuppa.'
195
00:15:59,040 --> 00:16:02,040
Oh...so good.
196
00:16:04,040 --> 00:16:06,040
What's the word for...?
197
00:16:06,040 --> 00:16:09,040
What is it? Hod...? For good?
198
00:16:09,040 --> 00:16:11,040
Delicious?
199
00:16:21,040 --> 00:16:24,520
'Flat bread, baked in the fire,
is handed out.'
200
00:16:24,520 --> 00:16:26,880
Very nice bread. Very nice bread.
201
00:16:26,880 --> 00:16:31,880
'Visitors, however unexpected,
are always made to feel welcome.'
202
00:16:33,440 --> 00:16:35,520
How often do you do the milking?
203
00:16:41,000 --> 00:16:43,280
Shall I come and help you?
204
00:16:46,520 --> 00:16:48,760
Yes. Is that OK? Yes.
205
00:16:48,760 --> 00:16:50,880
You must be my teacher!
206
00:17:09,040 --> 00:17:13,440
The sheep and the yaks are just
coming in for the night.
207
00:17:14,440 --> 00:17:18,880
And they go into the enclosures,
is that right? Yeah.
208
00:17:18,880 --> 00:17:21,680
Why do you bring them in
at night?
209
00:17:34,480 --> 00:17:36,520
'There's a price to pay
210
00:17:36,520 --> 00:17:39,760
'for bringing animals up to
this mountain wilderness.
211
00:17:39,760 --> 00:17:41,520
'Predators.
212
00:17:52,680 --> 00:17:58,400
'The temperature plummets to
-15 degrees centigrade.
213
00:17:59,400 --> 00:18:04,040
'It's too cold for the shepherds to
stay up and guard their animals
214
00:18:04,040 --> 00:18:06,800
'but the flock is not without
protection.
215
00:18:07,800 --> 00:18:11,200
'Dogs have taken care
of the nightshift.
216
00:18:11,200 --> 00:18:15,040
'These are not pets.
They spend their lives outside.
217
00:18:15,040 --> 00:18:17,040
'And their ears are clipped short
218
00:18:17,040 --> 00:18:20,520
'so predators cannot latch
onto them in a fight.
219
00:18:20,520 --> 00:18:23,600
'As well as wolves,
the shepherds and their dogs
220
00:18:23,600 --> 00:18:27,040
'need to protect the flock
from snow leopards and bears.'
221
00:18:28,040 --> 00:18:33,040
What is the most dangerous animal
for you
222
00:18:33,040 --> 00:18:35,920
when you are living up here
in the Pamir?
223
00:18:56,440 --> 00:19:00,560
'Last year, wolves killed eight
animals here in Mulung-dhan.
224
00:19:00,560 --> 00:19:04,720
'The Wakhis' herds are key to their
survival, and this kind of loss
225
00:19:04,720 --> 00:19:07,520
'can seriously affect
a family's chance
226
00:19:07,520 --> 00:19:10,040
'of making it through the winter.
227
00:19:23,480 --> 00:19:29,160
'Every day, just after sunrise, the
herd is driven out onto the hills.'
228
00:19:39,960 --> 00:19:45,040
I'm going out today with one
of the men of the village,
229
00:19:45,040 --> 00:19:49,120
Panchambey,
whose name means "Thursday".
230
00:19:52,400 --> 00:19:57,120
'Only a few of these animals
actually belong to Panchambey.
231
00:19:57,120 --> 00:19:59,880
'The men take it in turns
to go out shepherding
232
00:19:59,880 --> 00:20:03,000
'so today he's in charge
of the whole flock,
233
00:20:03,000 --> 00:20:05,800
'all 200 of them.
234
00:20:08,400 --> 00:20:11,280
'We climb up the valley,
far from the camp,
235
00:20:11,280 --> 00:20:14,280
'but I can't see any improvement
in the pasture.
236
00:20:14,280 --> 00:20:17,360
'The grass is still low,
brown and scrubby.'
237
00:20:19,000 --> 00:20:25,320
This isn't a lush green Welsh
pasture like my sheep are used to
238
00:20:25,320 --> 00:20:30,440
and, yet, these animals look like
they are in the peak of condition -
239
00:20:30,440 --> 00:20:34,280
they are fat, they look healthy
240
00:20:34,280 --> 00:20:38,040
and something that I'm incredibly
envious of
241
00:20:38,040 --> 00:20:42,680
is that not a single one
of them is limping.
242
00:20:44,520 --> 00:20:46,840
'It's been really wet back at home.
243
00:20:46,840 --> 00:20:49,560
'My sheep have been plagued
by foot rot.
244
00:20:49,560 --> 00:20:53,760
'But none of these animals
are showing any sign of it.
245
00:20:53,760 --> 00:20:57,680
'Sheep were first domesticated
in the hills of Turkey, Iran
246
00:20:57,680 --> 00:21:00,520
'and Iraq
around 12,000 years ago,
247
00:21:00,520 --> 00:21:05,520
'and they do seem to thrive in this
kind of dry, mountainous terrain.'
248
00:21:09,960 --> 00:21:12,520
Come on, you lot at the back!
249
00:21:12,520 --> 00:21:17,040
'But summer is nearly over. There
is a long, lean winter ahead.
250
00:21:17,040 --> 00:21:21,040
'These sheep have adapted to
a life of feast and famine
251
00:21:21,040 --> 00:21:24,080
'by storing reserves
in their fatty hind-quarters.'
252
00:21:24,080 --> 00:21:26,040
There you go.
253
00:21:27,720 --> 00:21:30,280
I still quite can't get over this.
254
00:21:30,280 --> 00:21:33,520
Something vaguely obscene
about those bottoms!
255
00:21:35,520 --> 00:21:38,280
'After a morning grazing
on the slopes,
256
00:21:38,280 --> 00:21:42,040
'the animals are brought back
to the camp to be milked.
257
00:21:46,320 --> 00:21:48,520
'One of the women, Nisa,
258
00:21:48,520 --> 00:21:51,520
'is struggling to get used to
our strange ways.'
259
00:22:02,520 --> 00:22:06,280
'Young animals are kept apart from
their mothers during the day,
260
00:22:06,280 --> 00:22:11,040
'to stop them drinking all the milk,
but they are briefly reunited now.'
261
00:22:11,040 --> 00:22:14,040
They allow the lambs
to keep feeding...
262
00:22:15,040 --> 00:22:18,520
..to stimulate the production
of the milk
263
00:22:18,520 --> 00:22:20,680
but they also take some themselves.
264
00:22:22,040 --> 00:22:26,280
'It's a very efficient system.
Lambs are kept happy and healthy
265
00:22:26,280 --> 00:22:30,040
'and the women get as much milk
as possible.'
266
00:22:31,600 --> 00:22:34,520
There's something really lovely
about being with people
267
00:22:34,520 --> 00:22:39,040
who handle animals with such...
268
00:22:39,040 --> 00:22:43,040
sort of, confidence and...
I mean, it really is second nature.
269
00:22:54,000 --> 00:22:56,920
'These sheep are much tamer
than the ones on my farm.
270
00:22:56,920 --> 00:23:01,040
'I only breed mine for meat
so they're hardly ever handled
271
00:23:01,040 --> 00:23:03,040
'and I never milk them.
272
00:23:03,040 --> 00:23:05,520
So, will you explain, what do I do?
273
00:23:06,520 --> 00:23:09,040
OK, so you take the udder,
274
00:23:09,040 --> 00:23:11,280
Like this?
275
00:23:11,280 --> 00:23:14,040
Like that? Yeah.
276
00:23:14,040 --> 00:23:16,840
Oh, it's working.
277
00:23:17,840 --> 00:23:19,760
Is this good? What do you think?
278
00:23:21,840 --> 00:23:23,840
Very slow.
279
00:23:26,040 --> 00:23:27,480
Nothing there!
280
00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:30,520
So this one is done now?
281
00:23:35,480 --> 00:23:40,200
You can see already she's got
impatient with my pathetic efforts.
282
00:23:58,280 --> 00:24:01,520
'The animals are driven back out
onto the slopes.
283
00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:04,040
'They'll spend the rest of the day
grazing
284
00:24:04,040 --> 00:24:07,040
'before they're brought home
for the night.
285
00:24:10,560 --> 00:24:13,280
'The next job is bread baking.
286
00:24:13,280 --> 00:24:15,760
'First, we need fuel for the fire.
287
00:24:15,760 --> 00:24:18,320
'There are no trees up this high,
288
00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:21,520
'but there's a never-ending supply
of yak dung.'
289
00:24:28,960 --> 00:24:32,040
'The herders come back
to this camp every year
290
00:24:32,040 --> 00:24:35,520
'so there are stone huts here
as well as yurts.'
291
00:24:38,400 --> 00:24:41,280
It's quite smoky in here,
isn't it?
292
00:24:41,280 --> 00:24:44,520
The dung, it makes a lot of smoke
in your eyes.
293
00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:55,040
So it is flour, water, salt.
294
00:24:57,040 --> 00:24:59,520
The lid goes on.
295
00:25:00,520 --> 00:25:07,120
So you put the hot dung on top of
the lid and that cooks the bread.
296
00:25:12,040 --> 00:25:14,520
Bread with tea is the Wakhi staple.
297
00:25:14,520 --> 00:25:18,520
It's the only thing many people
eat for breakfast, lunch,
298
00:25:18,520 --> 00:25:23,040
and dinner, day after day,
week after week.
299
00:25:45,760 --> 00:25:49,520
'Traders from the west
of the province arrive in camp.
300
00:25:49,520 --> 00:25:53,280
'It's taken them 25 days
to cross the mountains.'
301
00:25:54,280 --> 00:25:56,560
Why did you come here?
302
00:26:00,440 --> 00:26:03,520
So are there many traders like you
303
00:26:03,520 --> 00:26:06,000
that come to this area
to buy animals?
304
00:26:10,680 --> 00:26:17,480
Do you come here because the Wakhi
people have very good animals?
305
00:26:25,040 --> 00:26:28,040
'These men may get a good deal
up here,
306
00:26:28,040 --> 00:26:31,760
'but this is the only way the Wakhi
have of earning any money.
307
00:26:31,760 --> 00:26:36,040
'Nisa has a few yaks,
and she sold one to the trader.'
308
00:26:37,040 --> 00:26:42,480
So are you happy today
because you sold a yak?
309
00:26:47,040 --> 00:26:51,000
She said, I'm unhappy.
You are unhappy? Why?
310
00:26:54,120 --> 00:26:58,840
So she... This was a good yak
for her? She didn't want to sell?
311
00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:15,280
'As well as providing everyday
necessities like milk and wool,
312
00:27:15,280 --> 00:27:19,040
'the family's animals can be
cashed in when times are hard.
313
00:27:19,040 --> 00:27:23,240
'As long as they have their herd,
they have the means to survive.'
314
00:27:23,240 --> 00:27:27,520
She wants you to spin the wool.
I might break it. I might break it.
315
00:27:30,040 --> 00:27:32,040
LAUGHTER
316
00:27:32,040 --> 00:27:35,520
How do I do it?
It's gone very thick here.
317
00:27:40,040 --> 00:27:42,240
You're not helping at all.
318
00:27:47,040 --> 00:27:49,520
'The shepherds are highly mobile,
319
00:27:49,520 --> 00:27:53,120
'migrating as the cold weather
starts to set in.
320
00:27:53,120 --> 00:27:56,040
'The Wakhi call these journeys
the "kuch"
321
00:27:56,040 --> 00:28:00,040
'and I've come here at the end of
summer hoping to take part in one.
322
00:28:00,040 --> 00:28:03,040
'Mulung-dhan is low down
and sheltered
323
00:28:03,040 --> 00:28:06,040
'and no-one has any plans
to move yet.
324
00:28:06,040 --> 00:28:08,520
'But we've heard
there is another camp
325
00:28:08,520 --> 00:28:11,800
'where the people are getting ready
to make a kuch
326
00:28:11,800 --> 00:28:15,040
'so we pack our bags
and say our goodbyes.'
327
00:28:17,480 --> 00:28:19,280
Thank you.
328
00:28:29,320 --> 00:28:34,040
The village that we're heading to
now is the highest of all of them.
329
00:28:34,040 --> 00:28:38,520
It's tucked right up at the base of
the mountains at the snow line...
330
00:28:40,040 --> 00:28:45,040
..so if anyone's thinking
of moving for the winter,
331
00:28:45,040 --> 00:28:49,560
I would imagine it would be this
community that moves first.
332
00:29:00,640 --> 00:29:05,040
'Our destination is 4,500 metres
above sea level
333
00:29:05,040 --> 00:29:08,640
'and is the most remote settlement
in the Big Pamir.'
334
00:29:10,960 --> 00:29:15,040
We're getting our first glimpse
of the village now...
335
00:29:17,040 --> 00:29:21,040
..and it is noticeably higher,
not just because my legs ache
336
00:29:21,040 --> 00:29:25,040
but because the air
has a real biting chill to it.
337
00:29:25,040 --> 00:29:27,520
The sun may be bright
338
00:29:27,520 --> 00:29:31,480
but the wind is coming straight off
those snowy peaks.
339
00:29:39,600 --> 00:29:42,520
'The village is called Asan Katich.
340
00:29:42,520 --> 00:29:44,520
'About 50 people live here,
341
00:29:44,520 --> 00:29:47,520
'so it's almost twice the size
of Mulung-dhan.
342
00:29:47,520 --> 00:29:51,840
'And we're in luck. They're getting
ready to move - to make a kuch.
343
00:29:52,840 --> 00:29:55,040
'But there's a problem.
344
00:29:55,040 --> 00:29:59,520
'Yesterday, we sent someone ahead
to ask if we could film here,
345
00:29:59,520 --> 00:30:01,520
'and we were given the OK,
346
00:30:01,520 --> 00:30:05,080
'but, now, some of the men
seem less keen.
347
00:30:15,280 --> 00:30:18,520
'We spend the rest of the day
talking things through,
348
00:30:18,520 --> 00:30:21,440
'waiting for a final decision.
349
00:30:26,520 --> 00:30:30,040
'In a way, I totally understand
the men's reluctance.
350
00:30:30,040 --> 00:30:33,280
'How would we react if strangers
turned up at our homes
351
00:30:33,280 --> 00:30:35,520
'and asked to film us?
352
00:30:35,520 --> 00:30:38,760
'But we were given such a warm
welcome back in Mulung-dhan,
353
00:30:38,760 --> 00:30:42,200
'it seems strange that things
could be so different up here.'
354
00:30:43,200 --> 00:30:47,280
It may be that this is just
a very remote community.
355
00:30:47,280 --> 00:30:50,520
Even their village in the valley
is very remote.
356
00:30:50,520 --> 00:30:53,040
They won't have seen
a lot of foreigners
357
00:30:53,040 --> 00:30:56,040
and so we think that,
quite understandably,
358
00:30:56,040 --> 00:30:59,280
when we all turn up they just think,
"What are you doing here?"
359
00:30:59,280 --> 00:31:03,040
And what we hope is that,
maybe tomorrow,
360
00:31:03,040 --> 00:31:07,360
they might feel more comfortable
about us filming.
361
00:31:19,320 --> 00:31:22,040
'Next morning,
things are still a bit tense.
362
00:31:22,040 --> 00:31:27,800
'The men tell us we can film in the
camp, but the women are off limits.
363
00:31:28,800 --> 00:31:32,040
'But not everyone is happy
with this decision.'
364
00:31:32,040 --> 00:31:35,360
Some of the women in the village
have said, "Don't tell a soul.
365
00:31:35,360 --> 00:31:37,800
"Go and get a camera,
come and film us."
366
00:31:37,800 --> 00:31:40,040
So that's what I'm going to do.
367
00:31:41,440 --> 00:31:44,040
WHISPERING
368
00:31:46,520 --> 00:31:49,040
'All they are doing is making bread
369
00:31:49,040 --> 00:31:52,040
'but they have a mischievous look
in their eye.
370
00:32:17,040 --> 00:32:20,760
'One of the women walks behind me
to look at the camera's
flip-out screen.'
371
00:32:33,520 --> 00:32:36,720
'I put the camera away
before we're discovered.
372
00:32:38,720 --> 00:32:42,520
'Then, a woman called Bakht Begum
says she wants to show me
373
00:32:42,520 --> 00:32:45,040
'how to make food for the winter.
374
00:32:45,040 --> 00:32:50,040
'No-one, it seems, tells this lady
what she can or cannot do.
375
00:32:53,040 --> 00:32:55,640
'I'm immediately put to work.'
376
00:32:55,640 --> 00:32:58,760
So...in here...
377
00:32:58,760 --> 00:33:01,040
we have boiled milk
378
00:33:01,040 --> 00:33:04,960
and we churn it
and what do we make?
379
00:33:10,520 --> 00:33:14,040
Making the butter now.
Making the batter now? Ah, OK.
380
00:33:15,280 --> 00:33:18,280
And we have this ingenious system
381
00:33:18,280 --> 00:33:22,400
of a...sort of, paddle, erm...
382
00:33:22,400 --> 00:33:25,040
and this leather strap.
383
00:33:27,040 --> 00:33:31,040
And we're churning it for,
I'm not quite sure how long,
384
00:33:31,040 --> 00:33:34,280
I'm not quite sure how long
I'm going to be able to last.
385
00:33:34,280 --> 00:33:37,480
She's incredibly strong
and very feisty, this woman.
386
00:33:43,520 --> 00:33:46,040
You want me to do it now by myself?
387
00:33:48,040 --> 00:33:50,520
I'm not sure this is going to work.
Let's see.
388
00:33:50,520 --> 00:33:53,040
Like that, like that.
389
00:33:57,040 --> 00:33:59,040
It's very hard.
390
00:34:01,040 --> 00:34:03,040
I'm exhausted!
391
00:34:05,600 --> 00:34:10,920
It seems that the summer is the time
when all the dairy produce
392
00:34:10,920 --> 00:34:15,160
that they make is all made up here
in the mountains
393
00:34:15,160 --> 00:34:20,360
and then stored and taken down
to the village for the winter.
394
00:34:23,040 --> 00:34:28,400
'After many hours of churning,
the fat of the milk separates out.'
395
00:34:28,400 --> 00:34:33,360
So this is the butter.
It comes from here? Aha!
396
00:34:33,360 --> 00:34:37,520
'The remaining butter milk
is boiled again for a few hours
397
00:34:37,520 --> 00:34:39,520
'and allowed to cool.
398
00:34:39,520 --> 00:34:41,760
'The water is then squeezed out,
399
00:34:41,760 --> 00:34:45,040
'leaving a moist, yoghurt-like paste
called qurut.'
400
00:34:45,040 --> 00:34:47,040
Can I try?
401
00:34:49,040 --> 00:34:52,040
Mmm! Very good,
402
00:34:52,040 --> 00:34:54,040
Very good yoghurt.
403
00:34:54,040 --> 00:34:57,400
So it is a complete dairy -
yoghurt, butter.
404
00:34:57,400 --> 00:34:59,520
'Nothing is wasted.
405
00:34:59,520 --> 00:35:03,360
'Stale bread goes into the leftover
residue and is given to the dogs.'
406
00:35:05,480 --> 00:35:08,360
The dogs are going to get
well fed tonight.
407
00:35:13,040 --> 00:35:18,040
'Everyone's been busy packing up,
getting ready for the kuch.
408
00:35:18,040 --> 00:35:22,040
'The chief has come up from
the main village in the valley
to oversee things.
409
00:35:22,040 --> 00:35:26,080
'Crucially for us, he seems very
relaxed that we are here
410
00:35:26,080 --> 00:35:29,040
'and he gives us his full support.
411
00:35:49,400 --> 00:35:54,320
'We're given the OK just as the
herd is driven back for milking
412
00:35:54,320 --> 00:35:58,040
'and, as if by magic,
the women appear.'
413
00:36:13,200 --> 00:36:17,160
What's so incredible is that
you have kids as young as this
414
00:36:17,160 --> 00:36:23,040
all helping, all manoeuvring
the sheep and the goats,
415
00:36:23,040 --> 00:36:27,040
and you can see that they literally
learn their craft
416
00:36:27,040 --> 00:36:30,000
from the moment they can walk.
417
00:36:35,520 --> 00:36:38,520
'But the young workers
do get the odd break.
418
00:36:38,520 --> 00:36:41,040
'Little girls have no dolls
to dress
419
00:36:41,040 --> 00:36:43,280
'so they make do with goats
instead.'
420
00:37:00,320 --> 00:37:03,040
So our breakthrough came.
421
00:37:03,040 --> 00:37:07,040
I'm so delighted that we're able
to film here
422
00:37:07,040 --> 00:37:11,040
and, the day after tomorrow,
the whole village is going to move
423
00:37:11,040 --> 00:37:15,040
and we'll get a sense of
the true scale of the kuch
424
00:37:15,040 --> 00:37:19,040
when everybody and all their
livestock move down into the valley.
425
00:37:32,160 --> 00:37:36,040
'The kuch will move the camp
to a lower, more sheltered spot.
426
00:37:36,040 --> 00:37:39,360
'But there's still lots of work
to do before we leave.
427
00:37:39,360 --> 00:37:41,520
'The women take to the roof
428
00:37:41,520 --> 00:37:44,720
'for the next stage
of winter food production.
429
00:37:48,040 --> 00:37:51,240
'The qurut paste,
made from boiled buttermilk,
430
00:37:51,240 --> 00:37:55,040
'has been drained
and now needs to dry.'
431
00:37:55,040 --> 00:37:58,960
This, you roll it
and put in the sun?
432
00:38:05,120 --> 00:38:08,040
'From milking to churning to drying,
433
00:38:08,040 --> 00:38:11,520
'making qurut is what this
time of year is all about.'
434
00:38:11,520 --> 00:38:15,040
So this is an important product
435
00:38:15,040 --> 00:38:18,560
that you make while you're
here in the summer?
436
00:38:37,040 --> 00:38:40,520
It actually...it tastes like feta.
437
00:38:40,520 --> 00:38:44,040
It's a kind of salty, soft,
almost a cheese.
438
00:38:44,040 --> 00:38:46,760
You don't really taste
it like yoghurt.
439
00:38:46,760 --> 00:38:48,480
They're very good.
440
00:38:49,480 --> 00:38:53,840
'The qurut is dried and bagged up.
It should last for six months -
441
00:38:53,840 --> 00:38:58,240
'just long enough to see everyone
through the winter.'
442
00:39:08,880 --> 00:39:11,920
I don't want it to fall
on your head.
443
00:39:11,920 --> 00:39:15,040
'The migration is going to be
in two waves.
444
00:39:15,040 --> 00:39:17,520
'An advance party will leave today.
445
00:39:17,520 --> 00:39:20,520
'Everyone else,
including Bakht Begum and myself,
446
00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:23,040
'will follow on tomorrow.
447
00:39:23,040 --> 00:39:26,000
'There's a lot of work to be done.
The pressure is on.'
448
00:39:28,840 --> 00:39:31,720
Faster? OK.
449
00:39:34,960 --> 00:39:38,880
'Their livestock provide the Wakhi
with almost everything they need.
450
00:39:38,880 --> 00:39:41,640
'Wool is compressed
into felt panels.
451
00:39:41,640 --> 00:39:44,040
'Yak hair is twisted into ropes.
452
00:39:44,040 --> 00:39:48,520
'And the animals themselves
are removal vans.'
453
00:39:54,040 --> 00:39:57,040
You know that feeling when
you're trying to pack up the car
454
00:39:57,040 --> 00:40:01,520
and someone says, "Shall I help?",
and you just want to go,
"No, let me get on and do it."
455
00:40:01,520 --> 00:40:04,040
That's what's happening
at the moment.
456
00:40:05,040 --> 00:40:08,040
This guy is saying, "Well,
why don't I put this sack on?"
457
00:40:08,040 --> 00:40:11,520
And he's going, "I don't want
the sack. I want something else.
458
00:40:11,520 --> 00:40:13,520
"Get that sack!"
459
00:40:13,520 --> 00:40:15,520
LAUGHTER
460
00:40:25,840 --> 00:40:31,760
'The advance party sets off down the
Pamir, heading for warmer pastures.'
461
00:40:35,520 --> 00:40:38,520
Last minute things that have
been forgotten.
462
00:40:38,520 --> 00:40:41,320
"Hang on a minute,
you've left your coat!"
463
00:40:47,760 --> 00:40:52,040
I could have been standing here
500 years ago
464
00:40:52,040 --> 00:40:54,760
and witnessed exactly that
same scene.
465
00:41:14,040 --> 00:41:18,040
'Next morning,
winter is beginning to bite.
466
00:41:18,040 --> 00:41:21,040
'The snow makes it hard
for the animals to graze
467
00:41:21,040 --> 00:41:24,760
'so the herd is immediately driven
down the valley.'
468
00:41:29,920 --> 00:41:34,160
We've been here about 10 days now.
469
00:41:36,160 --> 00:41:40,640
It is an exhausting...way of life.
470
00:41:42,560 --> 00:41:46,520
And doing anything at this altitude
just wears you out.
471
00:41:46,520 --> 00:41:49,720
It's like someone's put bricks
in the bottom of your boots.
472
00:41:49,720 --> 00:41:53,160
And, erm, I look at these guys
473
00:41:53,160 --> 00:41:58,040
and the women,
who seem totally tireless.
474
00:42:00,360 --> 00:42:05,040
'But there's lots to be done
and I try to make myself useful.
475
00:42:10,120 --> 00:42:13,520
'The women and children
are wearing their finest clothes,
476
00:42:13,520 --> 00:42:16,280
'giving the occasion
a festival air.'
477
00:42:28,760 --> 00:42:32,040
Are you pleased to be moving?
478
00:42:32,040 --> 00:42:35,760
WOMAN TRANSLATES
479
00:42:56,520 --> 00:43:00,000
Really? Not feeling so good today?
480
00:43:01,520 --> 00:43:06,040
'Finally, the most important cargo
of all - a summer's worth of qurut
481
00:43:06,040 --> 00:43:07,400
'and butter.'
482
00:43:07,400 --> 00:43:09,480
This is a precious load.
483
00:43:09,480 --> 00:43:14,320
That represents hours and hours
and hours of really physical labour.
484
00:43:20,800 --> 00:43:24,440
Oh! It's like sitting on a sofa
with legs.
485
00:43:25,440 --> 00:43:28,760
'The yurts are down,
the yaks are loaded.
486
00:43:28,760 --> 00:43:31,200
'and our kuch begins.'
487
00:43:55,040 --> 00:43:58,280
They're such a smooth ride.
488
00:43:58,280 --> 00:44:01,040
They seem to have built-in
shock-absorbers,
489
00:44:01,040 --> 00:44:05,040
so, even over this
very rough terrain,
490
00:44:05,040 --> 00:44:08,400
you feel like you're almost
floating over it.
491
00:44:16,920 --> 00:44:20,040
So we get off here? Yeah? OK.
492
00:44:21,520 --> 00:44:23,520
Thanks you, yak.
493
00:44:23,520 --> 00:44:25,520
So we stay here? OK.
494
00:44:25,520 --> 00:44:30,520
So, I think what's happening, in
the good tradition of any house move
495
00:44:30,520 --> 00:44:32,840
is that there will be tea.
496
00:44:35,040 --> 00:44:39,840
Wow, look at this!
Ah, it's a perfect picnic.
497
00:44:39,840 --> 00:44:42,040
Tashakur.
498
00:44:42,040 --> 00:44:45,920
'We've passed close to
another herding camp.
499
00:44:45,920 --> 00:44:49,000
'The women come out bearing tea
and bread.
500
00:44:50,000 --> 00:44:53,280
'Only a few hundred Wakhi
shepherds live up here,
501
00:44:53,280 --> 00:44:55,520
'spread out across a huge area.
502
00:44:55,520 --> 00:44:59,520
'Moments like these forge bonds
between disparate communities.'
503
00:45:03,720 --> 00:45:05,520
OK.
504
00:45:11,520 --> 00:45:15,560
This feels like such
an ancient tradition...
505
00:45:17,560 --> 00:45:20,040
..that has been held on to
506
00:45:20,040 --> 00:45:24,080
not for any romantic reasons,
507
00:45:24,080 --> 00:45:28,080
simply reasons that are practical.
508
00:45:28,080 --> 00:45:31,040
This is how these people live.
509
00:45:36,600 --> 00:45:40,520
'It's mid-afternoon
by the time we get to Vagboy,
510
00:45:40,520 --> 00:45:44,760
'a temporary herding camp
at the foot of a huge scree slope.'
511
00:45:47,520 --> 00:45:50,520
You can see already
that there's more pasture,
512
00:45:50,520 --> 00:45:53,040
there's more grass down here.
513
00:45:53,040 --> 00:45:55,520
It's definitely warmer.
514
00:45:55,520 --> 00:45:57,520
And, erm...
515
00:45:57,520 --> 00:46:00,040
so now is the big task
of settling in,
516
00:46:00,040 --> 00:46:02,280
re-putting up the yurts
517
00:46:02,280 --> 00:46:05,040
and, erm, yeah...
518
00:46:05,040 --> 00:46:08,240
making ourselves at home.
519
00:46:18,640 --> 00:46:23,080
'It's much harder putting a yurt up
than taking it down.
520
00:46:23,080 --> 00:46:26,280
'They are giant, 3D jigsaw puzzles.
521
00:46:26,280 --> 00:46:28,560
'Get the wrong pole
in the wrong place
522
00:46:28,560 --> 00:46:32,040
'and you have to start again
from scratch.'
523
00:46:38,040 --> 00:46:39,520
Are you OK?
524
00:46:39,520 --> 00:46:43,920
'I help Bakht Begum move into
the hut that will be her home
525
00:46:43,920 --> 00:46:46,960
'for the next few weeks.
526
00:46:52,640 --> 00:46:55,280
'The herd is driven into camp.
527
00:46:55,280 --> 00:46:59,200
'Nothing gets in the way of milking.
528
00:47:10,520 --> 00:47:13,520
'A few hours later,
all the yurts are up
529
00:47:13,520 --> 00:47:17,600
'and the smell of burning yak dung
fills the air.'
530
00:47:17,600 --> 00:47:20,520
So what are you cooking, Begum?
531
00:47:28,320 --> 00:47:31,280
'This meal is only made
on important occasions -
532
00:47:31,280 --> 00:47:35,520
'religious festivals, funerals
and at the end of a kuch.'
533
00:47:35,520 --> 00:47:38,040
What have you put in here?
534
00:47:41,040 --> 00:47:45,720
A special oil, flour,
535
00:47:45,720 --> 00:47:48,520
A little bit of salt.
A little bit of salt.
536
00:47:52,240 --> 00:47:54,040
Very warm? Yes.
537
00:47:58,040 --> 00:48:00,040
Mmm!
538
00:48:00,040 --> 00:48:03,040
Very good, very good.
539
00:48:05,480 --> 00:48:10,040
What seems so special about
this dish is that
540
00:48:10,040 --> 00:48:14,520
it combines all the things
that the Wakhi produce.
541
00:48:14,520 --> 00:48:17,760
They produce the wheat and barley
down in the valley
542
00:48:17,760 --> 00:48:19,520
that makes the flour.
543
00:48:19,520 --> 00:48:23,280
They milk the sheep that makes
the butter that makes the oil.
544
00:48:23,280 --> 00:48:26,240
So everything in this bowl
is really...
545
00:48:26,240 --> 00:48:30,080
it's like all the Wakhi produce
brought together.
546
00:48:35,040 --> 00:48:38,040
Definitely,
on a cold winter's night,
547
00:48:38,040 --> 00:48:41,200
if somebody gave you a bowl of this,
you would not complain.
548
00:48:41,200 --> 00:48:43,040
It's very good.
549
00:48:43,040 --> 00:48:44,360
Tashakur.
550
00:48:55,960 --> 00:49:00,320
'Life quickly returns
to its normal routine.
551
00:49:13,760 --> 00:49:16,760
'Mamad Ayoub is repairing
felt panels
552
00:49:16,760 --> 00:49:18,720
'that were damaged on the kuch.
553
00:49:18,720 --> 00:49:23,520
'This way of life feels timeless.
But how long will it last?'
554
00:49:24,520 --> 00:49:29,760
Do you think that
your son's children
555
00:49:29,760 --> 00:49:34,800
will want to come to the Pamir
to be shepherds?
556
00:49:47,080 --> 00:49:52,040
Is there one thing that you think
557
00:49:52,040 --> 00:49:56,640
would make life easier
for the Wakhan?
558
00:50:23,600 --> 00:50:28,040
'The Wakhan Corridor is the poorest
district in the poorest province
559
00:50:28,040 --> 00:50:31,040
'in one of the poorest countries
in the world.
560
00:50:31,040 --> 00:50:34,040
'It's hard to see how things
can change,
561
00:50:34,040 --> 00:50:36,600
'how life here could be made easier.
562
00:50:36,600 --> 00:50:39,280
'It feels like the future
for the Wakhi
563
00:50:39,280 --> 00:50:43,600
'for the next few decades at least,
will be much the same as their past.
564
00:50:46,040 --> 00:50:50,080
'The constant struggle to survive
does take its toll.'
565
00:50:50,080 --> 00:50:52,320
Is this a very hard life?
566
00:51:11,560 --> 00:51:13,760
Seven children?
567
00:51:37,040 --> 00:51:41,040
'As many as one in five
Wakhi children die
568
00:51:41,040 --> 00:51:44,040
'before they reach their
first birthday.
569
00:51:48,040 --> 00:51:52,280
'Half of Wakhi children under two
are malnourished.
570
00:51:53,280 --> 00:51:55,520
'Because of the harsh conditions,
571
00:51:55,520 --> 00:52:00,920
'average life expectancy for
the Wakhi is only 35 years of age.
572
00:52:11,440 --> 00:52:15,120
'Bakht Begum's life story
is heart-rending,
573
00:52:15,120 --> 00:52:19,040
'so I'm touched when she says
she now thinks of me
574
00:52:19,040 --> 00:52:21,280
'as her honorary daughter.'
575
00:52:35,520 --> 00:52:38,520
I feel very honoured to be Feroza.
576
00:52:43,040 --> 00:52:47,040
'Bakht Begum has no children
up here to look after her
577
00:52:47,040 --> 00:52:49,560
'and she has few animals of her own,
578
00:52:49,560 --> 00:52:53,520
'but she has been lent some sheep
and goats by wealthier herders.
579
00:52:53,520 --> 00:52:57,520
'She can milk them, and breed
from them, before eventually
580
00:52:57,520 --> 00:53:00,280
'returning the animals
to their rightful owners.
581
00:53:00,280 --> 00:53:04,520
'So she always has something to eat
and something to do.
582
00:53:08,040 --> 00:53:11,200
'In the absence of any outside help,
583
00:53:11,200 --> 00:53:15,520
'the Wakhi have created a simple
but effective welfare system.
584
00:53:47,760 --> 00:53:50,520
'It's my last day in the Pamir.
585
00:53:52,800 --> 00:53:57,280
'We've bought a sheep
and are throwing a farewell feast.
586
00:53:57,280 --> 00:54:02,520
'The chief blesses the knife
and the sheep's throat is cut.'
587
00:54:05,040 --> 00:54:10,280
The fleece has come off
in one very neat piece.
588
00:54:10,280 --> 00:54:15,600
I'm envious of their,
erm, butchery skills.
589
00:54:18,960 --> 00:54:23,520
'When we kill a lamb in the UK, we
throw as much as a fifth of it away.
590
00:54:23,520 --> 00:54:28,080
'Here, everything goes in the pot -
brains, lungs, heart.
591
00:54:28,080 --> 00:54:31,520
'Every last drop of blood
is savoured.'
592
00:54:36,440 --> 00:54:38,520
Tashakur.
593
00:54:38,520 --> 00:54:40,520
Salaam, salaam!
594
00:54:43,160 --> 00:54:47,040
'Animals are only slaughtered on
special occasions like marriages.
595
00:54:47,040 --> 00:54:50,560
'They're too valuable to eat
otherwise.'
596
00:55:06,480 --> 00:55:10,120
'People here are lucky
if they eat meat once a month.
597
00:55:10,120 --> 00:55:12,920
'At home we take it for granted,
598
00:55:12,920 --> 00:55:16,040
'often eating meat
once or twice a day.
599
00:55:20,520 --> 00:55:23,520
'It's time to leave the Big Pamir.
600
00:55:25,480 --> 00:55:30,040
'It's been a real privilege to have
experienced, for a short while,
601
00:55:30,040 --> 00:55:32,520
'how the Wakhi shepherds live.
602
00:55:32,520 --> 00:55:36,040
'But it's incredibly tough up here
and, I have to admit,
603
00:55:36,040 --> 00:55:40,040
'the thought of a few home comforts
is rather appealing.'
604
00:55:40,040 --> 00:55:42,440
I haven't washed for three weeks.
605
00:55:42,440 --> 00:55:46,040
There are no loos that flush
or otherwise
606
00:55:46,040 --> 00:55:49,600
for probably...a good 100 miles
or so from here.
607
00:55:51,040 --> 00:55:54,520
And at this stage in the game,
am I looking forward to
608
00:55:54,520 --> 00:55:59,040
a nice clean bathroom, a hot shower,
a cup of tea and a sofa?
609
00:55:59,040 --> 00:56:02,320
I'd be totally lying
if I said I wasn't.
610
00:56:04,040 --> 00:56:08,040
One thing I will miss
will be Bakht Begum's friendship.
611
00:56:21,040 --> 00:56:23,040
Tashakur.
612
00:56:30,320 --> 00:56:33,880
'The Wakhi may be some of the most
traditional herders in the world,
613
00:56:33,880 --> 00:56:37,040
'but there are lessons
we can learn from them.
614
00:56:37,040 --> 00:56:41,520
'As more and more sheep are raised
worldwide, using new technology
615
00:56:41,520 --> 00:56:46,520
'and modern methods, I hope we
don't forget all of the old ways -
616
00:56:46,520 --> 00:56:48,760
'about how to value our animals
617
00:56:48,760 --> 00:56:51,840
'and use them efficiently
and respectfully.'
618
00:56:52,840 --> 00:56:56,760
There's something very heartening,
I think, that in a country
619
00:56:56,760 --> 00:57:01,280
that is racked by war and
religious strife and poverty,
620
00:57:01,280 --> 00:57:06,520
in a world that is upside-down and
sometimes, kind of, too miserable
621
00:57:06,520 --> 00:57:11,040
to contemplate, there are these
people in these mountains
622
00:57:11,040 --> 00:57:17,040
surviving, actually,
with dignity and with honour
623
00:57:17,040 --> 00:57:23,520
with no guns, with no strife,
624
00:57:23,520 --> 00:57:27,520
with no battles,
just the battles with the elements
625
00:57:27,520 --> 00:57:31,000
and the battles of keeping
their animals alive.
626
00:57:32,000 --> 00:57:35,040
'There is nothing romantic
about this way of life,
627
00:57:35,040 --> 00:57:39,280
'but it is inspiring to discover
that the ancient connection
628
00:57:39,280 --> 00:57:42,520
'between shepherd and flock
still exists,
629
00:57:42,520 --> 00:57:46,960
'allowing both to survive in such
a harsh, unforgiving land.'
630
00:57:46,960 --> 00:57:49,760
Thank you for letting us stay
in your village.
631
00:57:55,440 --> 00:57:57,440
Thank you.
632
00:57:57,440 --> 00:58:00,040
Oh, it's wider than I thought!
633
00:58:05,560 --> 00:58:10,600
'My journey to remote herding
communities doesn't end here.
634
00:58:11,600 --> 00:58:14,520
'Next time,
I travel to the High Andes
635
00:58:14,520 --> 00:58:17,040
'where I get to grips with alpacas.'
636
00:58:17,040 --> 00:58:20,720
Aqui! Aqui!
There you go. There you go.
637
00:58:20,720 --> 00:58:24,760
'Peru is at a crossroads between
old and new ways of herding.
638
00:58:24,760 --> 00:58:29,400
'Can ancient tradition compete
against science and technology?'
639
00:58:29,400 --> 00:58:32,640
What I'm going for is what I go for
when I pick a racehorse,
640
00:58:32,640 --> 00:58:35,000
which is a pretty face
and a nice bum.
641
00:58:52,000 --> 00:58:56,040
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53446
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