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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:04,800 Go on! Yeah, yeah, yeah! 2 00:00:04,800 --> 00:00:08,360 Like that? LAUGHTER 3 00:00:10,040 --> 00:00:12,160 Look at me. I'm covered. 4 00:00:13,320 --> 00:00:16,040 'In the most remote places on Earth, 5 00:00:16,040 --> 00:00:19,760 'people depend on their animals for survival. 6 00:00:21,640 --> 00:00:25,040 'A few years ago, I moved to a farm in the Welsh hills. 7 00:00:25,040 --> 00:00:29,680 'I've become fascinated by the bond between shepherd and flock. 8 00:00:30,680 --> 00:00:34,720 'Now, I'm going to explore this relationship's ancient origins.' 9 00:00:34,720 --> 00:00:37,520 I could have been standing here 500 years ago 10 00:00:37,520 --> 00:00:40,160 and witnessed exactly that same scene. 11 00:00:40,160 --> 00:00:44,120 'And I want to look at the future of herding.' 12 00:00:44,120 --> 00:00:46,920 There is sex going on in every direction. 13 00:00:48,000 --> 00:00:50,600 Have I just made a sheep? 14 00:00:51,840 --> 00:00:55,360 'My journey begins in the mountains of Afghanistan.' 15 00:00:55,360 --> 00:00:58,840 The air has a real biting chill to it. 16 00:00:58,840 --> 00:01:02,920 'The shepherds here live as they have done for a thousand years.' 17 00:01:02,920 --> 00:01:04,760 They're such a smooth ride. 18 00:01:04,760 --> 00:01:07,280 They seem to have built-in shock absorbers. 19 00:01:07,280 --> 00:01:11,520 It is an exhausting way of life and it's very cold 20 00:01:11,520 --> 00:01:14,600 and I would do almost anything for a hot bath. 21 00:01:15,600 --> 00:01:19,640 The admiration that I have for these people really knows no bounds. 22 00:01:19,640 --> 00:01:24,440 'I want to look back in time, to experience an ancient way of life, 23 00:01:24,440 --> 00:01:28,320 'and see if it still has a place in the 21st century.' 24 00:01:45,760 --> 00:01:48,520 'I'm in transit, heading to the airport 25 00:01:48,520 --> 00:01:52,040 'and driving along one of the most dangerous roads in the world. 26 00:01:52,040 --> 00:01:55,880 'Three days ago, a suicide bomber killed 12 ex-pat workers 27 00:01:55,880 --> 00:01:58,040 'a couple of miles from here. 28 00:01:58,040 --> 00:02:01,040 'Kabul is a city on the edge.' 29 00:02:03,000 --> 00:02:06,280 This is the riskiest thing, probably, that we're doing 30 00:02:06,280 --> 00:02:09,040 on our whole three-week trip. 31 00:02:10,520 --> 00:02:13,840 You're told all the things to look out for 32 00:02:13,840 --> 00:02:16,520 and all the things not to do and, erm... 33 00:02:16,520 --> 00:02:20,440 but once you're here, you still feel slightly helpless 34 00:02:20,440 --> 00:02:23,040 even though you've put everything in place 35 00:02:23,040 --> 00:02:26,040 to try and make sure that things are safe. 36 00:02:27,040 --> 00:02:31,040 'Being here is really unnerving, but I have to pass through Kabul 37 00:02:31,040 --> 00:02:35,040 'to get to some of the most traditional shepherds on Earth.' 38 00:02:37,280 --> 00:02:41,040 We're now entering the airport complex, by the looks of things, 39 00:02:41,040 --> 00:02:46,040 and, erm, you can see, maybe, that it's bristling with security. 40 00:02:46,040 --> 00:02:50,520 But, cars piled up in one place, does that make us a target? 41 00:02:50,520 --> 00:02:52,320 You just don't know. 42 00:03:02,920 --> 00:03:08,240 'After five security checks, we finally get to our charter plane. 43 00:03:08,240 --> 00:03:11,520 'That's the most stressful part of the journey over, 44 00:03:11,520 --> 00:03:14,040 'but it's going to take me two more days 45 00:03:14,040 --> 00:03:17,040 'to get to the shepherds I want to live with.' 46 00:03:17,040 --> 00:03:22,040 We're going to fly 250 kilometres north-east to the Wakhan Corridor. 47 00:03:22,040 --> 00:03:26,040 By all accounts, it's a spectacular flight through the mountains 48 00:03:26,040 --> 00:03:29,040 and it's going to take us to one of the most remote 49 00:03:29,040 --> 00:03:32,400 and unexplored regions of Afghanistan. 50 00:03:57,800 --> 00:04:01,520 'This rugged land is one of the last places in the world 51 00:04:01,520 --> 00:04:04,520 'where you can find truly traditional shepherds 52 00:04:04,520 --> 00:04:07,640 'whose way of life goes back to ancient times.' 53 00:04:08,640 --> 00:04:15,600 When you look across at all this incredible natural beauty, 54 00:04:15,600 --> 00:04:20,040 it's hard to think that when you say the word "Afghanistan" 55 00:04:20,040 --> 00:04:26,120 to almost anybody, all they think about is war and strife and terror, 56 00:04:26,120 --> 00:04:30,040 and yet...from here, 57 00:04:30,040 --> 00:04:37,040 it just looks like a place of indescribable mountainous beauty. 58 00:04:39,520 --> 00:04:42,520 'We're flying across the western edge of the Himalayas, 59 00:04:42,520 --> 00:04:45,280 'heading towards the Wakhan Corridor, 60 00:04:45,280 --> 00:04:47,560 'home of the Wakhi shepherds. 61 00:04:52,760 --> 00:04:56,520 'This narrow slither of mountainous Afghani territory 62 00:04:56,520 --> 00:05:00,280 'is a legacy of 19th century imperial rivalry. 63 00:05:00,280 --> 00:05:04,520 'Britain and Russia declared that their empires must never meet 64 00:05:04,520 --> 00:05:08,520 'and so the Wakhan Corridor was created as a neutral buffer zone 65 00:05:08,520 --> 00:05:13,040 'between what is now Tajikistan and Pakistan.' 66 00:05:22,080 --> 00:05:26,000 We are literally, apparently, somewhere near the airstrip. 67 00:05:26,000 --> 00:05:29,520 I can't see it. All I can see is rocks and mountains 68 00:05:29,520 --> 00:05:32,160 and this crazy landscape. 69 00:05:33,520 --> 00:05:35,200 Oh, my God! 70 00:05:42,640 --> 00:05:45,040 And we're on the ground. 71 00:05:52,920 --> 00:05:56,040 Wow. We're in the Wakhan... 72 00:05:57,560 --> 00:06:00,520 ..and there's even a welcoming party. 73 00:06:16,040 --> 00:06:18,040 Do you want to take it? 74 00:06:24,040 --> 00:06:26,040 Salaam. Salaam. 75 00:06:26,040 --> 00:06:27,760 Salaam alaikum. 76 00:06:28,760 --> 00:06:30,480 Salaam alaikum. 77 00:06:30,480 --> 00:06:35,280 'This region is so remote, it was never captured by the Taliban. 78 00:06:35,280 --> 00:06:38,040 'There are no soldiers here, no guns. 79 00:06:38,040 --> 00:06:41,040 'This feels like a completely different country - 80 00:06:41,040 --> 00:06:43,600 'a different world to Kabul.' 81 00:06:43,600 --> 00:06:46,520 It's ready? OK. Well, I'm ready. 82 00:06:46,520 --> 00:06:48,400 Let's go. 83 00:06:51,400 --> 00:06:53,280 This man, his name? 84 00:06:53,280 --> 00:06:55,720 Shambey? Shambey. 85 00:06:55,720 --> 00:06:58,040 Shambey. Ah, Shambey. 86 00:07:06,480 --> 00:07:11,520 'We drive up the Wakhan Valley, passing donkeys and cows. 87 00:07:11,520 --> 00:07:16,040 'But, as yet, there's no sign of any sheep or any shepherds. 88 00:07:19,680 --> 00:07:23,520 'We're now 3,000 metres above sea level. 89 00:07:23,520 --> 00:07:26,920 'It feels like the roof of the world.' 90 00:07:26,920 --> 00:07:30,440 The air is clear and crisp and sharp 91 00:07:30,440 --> 00:07:33,680 and a landscape that just takes your breath away. 92 00:07:33,680 --> 00:07:37,440 You don't really think there are places like this left in the world. 93 00:07:37,440 --> 00:07:42,520 Down in the valley here is the heartland of the Wakhan communities 94 00:07:42,520 --> 00:07:46,520 but no sign of the sheep that basically allow these people 95 00:07:46,520 --> 00:07:51,040 to survive in a spectacular but, nonetheless, harsh environment. 96 00:07:51,040 --> 00:07:53,280 So where are those sheep? 97 00:07:53,280 --> 00:07:57,520 Well, in the summer, they're driven up, staggeringly, 98 00:07:57,520 --> 00:08:02,040 over those mountains into what is called the Big Pamir - 99 00:08:02,040 --> 00:08:04,040 these huge valleys. 100 00:08:04,040 --> 00:08:07,920 To go and find the Wakhan shepherds, I've got to go there too. 101 00:08:11,960 --> 00:08:16,520 'The Wakhi have lived in this valley for 2,500 years or more. 102 00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:21,240 'Wheat is the staple crop and mid-September is harvest time. 103 00:08:21,240 --> 00:08:25,480 'It feels like I've stepped into the Middle Ages. 104 00:08:26,800 --> 00:08:29,280 'The valley is only a few miles wide. 105 00:08:29,280 --> 00:08:33,040 'There's no room to graze sheep as well as grow crops 106 00:08:33,040 --> 00:08:36,840 'so, earlier in the summer, the Wakhi divided into two teams. 107 00:08:36,840 --> 00:08:40,040 'Some stayed down here in their villages to farm, 108 00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:44,040 'while others went up to the mountain pastures to herd. 109 00:08:45,400 --> 00:08:50,280 'It's a tough, 20-mile trek up to the shepherds. 110 00:08:50,280 --> 00:08:53,760 'The film crew and I are not exactly travelling light 111 00:08:53,760 --> 00:08:56,680 'so we've hired some pack animals and their owners 112 00:08:56,680 --> 00:09:00,080 'to help us on the final leg of our journey.' 113 00:09:04,240 --> 00:09:07,040 We've got nine yaks and four horses 114 00:09:07,040 --> 00:09:11,040 but there's me, there's the crew, and then our support team 115 00:09:11,040 --> 00:09:15,040 and all the guys who are looking after their animals. 116 00:09:15,040 --> 00:09:20,360 Suddenly, our little band has swollen to a good number of people. 117 00:09:39,000 --> 00:09:42,040 'Yaks are the Wakhis' 4x4s. 118 00:09:42,040 --> 00:09:46,520 'These hairy, cow-like beasts can cover almost any terrain, 119 00:09:46,520 --> 00:09:49,800 'though at a rather gentle, sedate pace.' 120 00:09:56,040 --> 00:10:00,040 It's this route that many of the Wakhan shepherds 121 00:10:00,040 --> 00:10:03,040 will take at the beginning of every summer... 122 00:10:04,040 --> 00:10:08,480 ..to bring their flocks up to the good grazing lands. 123 00:10:10,920 --> 00:10:14,040 'These mountain paths were once used by merchants 124 00:10:14,040 --> 00:10:17,040 'following the Silk Road from Europe to China. 125 00:10:17,040 --> 00:10:20,040 'Marco Polo passed close by. 126 00:10:20,040 --> 00:10:23,520 'He described how wild animal horns marked the route 127 00:10:23,520 --> 00:10:26,040 'and it doesn't look like much has changed 128 00:10:26,040 --> 00:10:29,520 'since he was here almost 800 years ago. 129 00:10:35,040 --> 00:10:39,760 'After trekking for six hours, we're halfway to the summer pastures. 130 00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:42,680 'We stop for the night at a shepherds' hut.' 131 00:10:58,520 --> 00:11:00,960 'I wake up to a light dusting of snow. 132 00:11:00,960 --> 00:11:04,280 'My first night under canvas was very cold 133 00:11:04,280 --> 00:11:09,040 'and the thin mountain air is having a strange effect on my body.' 134 00:11:10,040 --> 00:11:14,040 I'm doing this because we're at 4,000 metres 135 00:11:14,040 --> 00:11:17,200 and I always swell up at altitude. It's nice isn't it? 136 00:11:18,960 --> 00:11:21,880 'But there's no time to worry about a puffy face.' 137 00:11:24,040 --> 00:11:28,520 If snow has reached the areas where the shepherds are, 138 00:11:28,520 --> 00:11:32,840 they might be thinking about packing up and moving to lower elevations 139 00:11:32,840 --> 00:11:36,040 so the big worry at this stage is that we've done this climb 140 00:11:36,040 --> 00:11:39,400 for nothing, and that the shepherds would have already moved. 141 00:11:44,080 --> 00:11:47,320 'I want to get to the pastures as soon as possible 142 00:11:47,320 --> 00:11:49,240 'so we pick up the pace. 143 00:11:59,000 --> 00:12:00,880 'We stop to rest the animals 144 00:12:00,880 --> 00:12:04,040 'and I show the men some pictures from my farm.' 145 00:12:04,040 --> 00:12:05,760 LAUGHTER 146 00:12:05,760 --> 00:12:08,760 These are Welsh sheep, not Wakhan sheep! 147 00:12:09,760 --> 00:12:13,040 'With all the troubles in the rest of Afghanistan, 148 00:12:13,040 --> 00:12:16,040 'I want to know what life is like for the Wakhi.' 149 00:12:16,040 --> 00:12:19,120 Is it very hard up in the mountains? 150 00:12:46,520 --> 00:12:49,520 'The Wakhi may be far from the horrors of war, 151 00:12:49,520 --> 00:12:52,280 'but living here is by no means easy. 152 00:12:54,320 --> 00:12:57,040 'At 4,600 metres 153 00:12:57,040 --> 00:13:01,520 'we get our first spectacular view of the mountain pastures 154 00:13:01,520 --> 00:13:03,960 'known as the Big Pamir.' 155 00:13:06,440 --> 00:13:10,280 This is what we've climbed to see. 156 00:13:10,280 --> 00:13:14,040 This giant U-shaped valley, 157 00:13:14,040 --> 00:13:17,760 a flat expanse of rich grazing land 158 00:13:17,760 --> 00:13:23,920 and every bit of it will be used by the Wakhan shepherds. 159 00:13:24,920 --> 00:13:27,520 'There may be plenty of space for animals 160 00:13:27,520 --> 00:13:31,520 'but it looks more like a moonscape than lush pasture. 161 00:13:34,520 --> 00:13:37,080 'We drop down into the Big Pamir. 162 00:13:39,040 --> 00:13:42,040 'Ahead of us, at last, is Mulung-dhan - 163 00:13:42,040 --> 00:13:44,520 'one of the Wakhis' summer camps. 164 00:13:44,520 --> 00:13:48,520 'I want to find out what it's like to herd in a world 165 00:13:48,520 --> 00:13:50,760 'that is very different from mine. 166 00:13:50,760 --> 00:13:54,360 'And this is a far cry from the Welsh hills.' 167 00:13:54,360 --> 00:13:58,040 The Wakhan have an association and we have one of the members 168 00:13:58,040 --> 00:14:01,040 travelling with us and he's gone ahead on a horse 169 00:14:01,040 --> 00:14:03,520 to let the village know that we are arriving 170 00:14:03,520 --> 00:14:07,040 and, hopefully, to give us permission to enter the village. 171 00:14:07,040 --> 00:14:11,560 As you can see, there are definitely sheep here so that's a good thing. 172 00:14:11,560 --> 00:14:15,040 However, what's not so good is what's coming along the valley 173 00:14:15,040 --> 00:14:19,040 behind us, which looks like the beginnings of a snowstorm. 174 00:14:19,040 --> 00:14:22,760 So I think we have to hope that they will let us stay 175 00:14:22,760 --> 00:14:24,680 at least for one night. 176 00:14:33,000 --> 00:14:35,040 Salaam alaikum. 177 00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:37,040 Salaam. 178 00:14:37,040 --> 00:14:40,520 'We've been given the OK to stay in the camp.' 179 00:14:40,520 --> 00:14:42,720 Salaam alaikum. 180 00:14:45,520 --> 00:14:47,280 Wow. 181 00:14:47,280 --> 00:14:49,520 Salaam alaikum. 182 00:15:03,040 --> 00:15:05,040 Salaam alaikum. 183 00:15:06,040 --> 00:15:07,840 Salaam alaikum. 184 00:15:08,840 --> 00:15:11,040 So this is your son? 185 00:15:11,040 --> 00:15:13,040 Yeah. And this...? 186 00:15:15,040 --> 00:15:17,520 And your son. And this...? 187 00:15:18,520 --> 00:15:20,920 This is your husband. 188 00:15:30,080 --> 00:15:32,280 I love their decoration. 189 00:15:34,520 --> 00:15:38,160 'Some old sweet wrappers add a splash of colour to the yurt. 190 00:15:43,040 --> 00:15:46,520 'Choi - local tea - is prepared.' 191 00:15:46,520 --> 00:15:49,920 So this is salt? 192 00:15:49,920 --> 00:15:53,520 This is milk. Yeah. This is tea. Yeah. 193 00:15:53,520 --> 00:15:56,520 'Salty tea may not sound very appetising, 194 00:15:56,520 --> 00:15:59,040 'but I'm desperate for a cuppa.' 195 00:15:59,040 --> 00:16:02,040 Oh...so good. 196 00:16:04,040 --> 00:16:06,040 What's the word for...? 197 00:16:06,040 --> 00:16:09,040 What is it? Hod...? For good? 198 00:16:09,040 --> 00:16:11,040 Delicious? 199 00:16:21,040 --> 00:16:24,520 'Flat bread, baked in the fire, is handed out.' 200 00:16:24,520 --> 00:16:26,880 Very nice bread. Very nice bread. 201 00:16:26,880 --> 00:16:31,880 'Visitors, however unexpected, are always made to feel welcome.' 202 00:16:33,440 --> 00:16:35,520 How often do you do the milking? 203 00:16:41,000 --> 00:16:43,280 Shall I come and help you? 204 00:16:46,520 --> 00:16:48,760 Yes. Is that OK? Yes. 205 00:16:48,760 --> 00:16:50,880 You must be my teacher! 206 00:17:09,040 --> 00:17:13,440 The sheep and the yaks are just coming in for the night. 207 00:17:14,440 --> 00:17:18,880 And they go into the enclosures, is that right? Yeah. 208 00:17:18,880 --> 00:17:21,680 Why do you bring them in at night? 209 00:17:34,480 --> 00:17:36,520 'There's a price to pay 210 00:17:36,520 --> 00:17:39,760 'for bringing animals up to this mountain wilderness. 211 00:17:39,760 --> 00:17:41,520 'Predators. 212 00:17:52,680 --> 00:17:58,400 'The temperature plummets to -15 degrees centigrade. 213 00:17:59,400 --> 00:18:04,040 'It's too cold for the shepherds to stay up and guard their animals 214 00:18:04,040 --> 00:18:06,800 'but the flock is not without protection. 215 00:18:07,800 --> 00:18:11,200 'Dogs have taken care of the nightshift. 216 00:18:11,200 --> 00:18:15,040 'These are not pets. They spend their lives outside. 217 00:18:15,040 --> 00:18:17,040 'And their ears are clipped short 218 00:18:17,040 --> 00:18:20,520 'so predators cannot latch onto them in a fight. 219 00:18:20,520 --> 00:18:23,600 'As well as wolves, the shepherds and their dogs 220 00:18:23,600 --> 00:18:27,040 'need to protect the flock from snow leopards and bears.' 221 00:18:28,040 --> 00:18:33,040 What is the most dangerous animal for you 222 00:18:33,040 --> 00:18:35,920 when you are living up here in the Pamir? 223 00:18:56,440 --> 00:19:00,560 'Last year, wolves killed eight animals here in Mulung-dhan. 224 00:19:00,560 --> 00:19:04,720 'The Wakhis' herds are key to their survival, and this kind of loss 225 00:19:04,720 --> 00:19:07,520 'can seriously affect a family's chance 226 00:19:07,520 --> 00:19:10,040 'of making it through the winter. 227 00:19:23,480 --> 00:19:29,160 'Every day, just after sunrise, the herd is driven out onto the hills.' 228 00:19:39,960 --> 00:19:45,040 I'm going out today with one of the men of the village, 229 00:19:45,040 --> 00:19:49,120 Panchambey, whose name means "Thursday". 230 00:19:52,400 --> 00:19:57,120 'Only a few of these animals actually belong to Panchambey. 231 00:19:57,120 --> 00:19:59,880 'The men take it in turns to go out shepherding 232 00:19:59,880 --> 00:20:03,000 'so today he's in charge of the whole flock, 233 00:20:03,000 --> 00:20:05,800 'all 200 of them. 234 00:20:08,400 --> 00:20:11,280 'We climb up the valley, far from the camp, 235 00:20:11,280 --> 00:20:14,280 'but I can't see any improvement in the pasture. 236 00:20:14,280 --> 00:20:17,360 'The grass is still low, brown and scrubby.' 237 00:20:19,000 --> 00:20:25,320 This isn't a lush green Welsh pasture like my sheep are used to 238 00:20:25,320 --> 00:20:30,440 and, yet, these animals look like they are in the peak of condition - 239 00:20:30,440 --> 00:20:34,280 they are fat, they look healthy 240 00:20:34,280 --> 00:20:38,040 and something that I'm incredibly envious of 241 00:20:38,040 --> 00:20:42,680 is that not a single one of them is limping. 242 00:20:44,520 --> 00:20:46,840 'It's been really wet back at home. 243 00:20:46,840 --> 00:20:49,560 'My sheep have been plagued by foot rot. 244 00:20:49,560 --> 00:20:53,760 'But none of these animals are showing any sign of it. 245 00:20:53,760 --> 00:20:57,680 'Sheep were first domesticated in the hills of Turkey, Iran 246 00:20:57,680 --> 00:21:00,520 'and Iraq around 12,000 years ago, 247 00:21:00,520 --> 00:21:05,520 'and they do seem to thrive in this kind of dry, mountainous terrain.' 248 00:21:09,960 --> 00:21:12,520 Come on, you lot at the back! 249 00:21:12,520 --> 00:21:17,040 'But summer is nearly over. There is a long, lean winter ahead. 250 00:21:17,040 --> 00:21:21,040 'These sheep have adapted to a life of feast and famine 251 00:21:21,040 --> 00:21:24,080 'by storing reserves in their fatty hind-quarters.' 252 00:21:24,080 --> 00:21:26,040 There you go. 253 00:21:27,720 --> 00:21:30,280 I still quite can't get over this. 254 00:21:30,280 --> 00:21:33,520 Something vaguely obscene about those bottoms! 255 00:21:35,520 --> 00:21:38,280 'After a morning grazing on the slopes, 256 00:21:38,280 --> 00:21:42,040 'the animals are brought back to the camp to be milked. 257 00:21:46,320 --> 00:21:48,520 'One of the women, Nisa, 258 00:21:48,520 --> 00:21:51,520 'is struggling to get used to our strange ways.' 259 00:22:02,520 --> 00:22:06,280 'Young animals are kept apart from their mothers during the day, 260 00:22:06,280 --> 00:22:11,040 'to stop them drinking all the milk, but they are briefly reunited now.' 261 00:22:11,040 --> 00:22:14,040 They allow the lambs to keep feeding... 262 00:22:15,040 --> 00:22:18,520 ..to stimulate the production of the milk 263 00:22:18,520 --> 00:22:20,680 but they also take some themselves. 264 00:22:22,040 --> 00:22:26,280 'It's a very efficient system. Lambs are kept happy and healthy 265 00:22:26,280 --> 00:22:30,040 'and the women get as much milk as possible.' 266 00:22:31,600 --> 00:22:34,520 There's something really lovely about being with people 267 00:22:34,520 --> 00:22:39,040 who handle animals with such... 268 00:22:39,040 --> 00:22:43,040 sort of, confidence and... I mean, it really is second nature. 269 00:22:54,000 --> 00:22:56,920 'These sheep are much tamer than the ones on my farm. 270 00:22:56,920 --> 00:23:01,040 'I only breed mine for meat so they're hardly ever handled 271 00:23:01,040 --> 00:23:03,040 'and I never milk them. 272 00:23:03,040 --> 00:23:05,520 So, will you explain, what do I do? 273 00:23:06,520 --> 00:23:09,040 OK, so you take the udder, 274 00:23:09,040 --> 00:23:11,280 Like this? 275 00:23:11,280 --> 00:23:14,040 Like that? Yeah. 276 00:23:14,040 --> 00:23:16,840 Oh, it's working. 277 00:23:17,840 --> 00:23:19,760 Is this good? What do you think? 278 00:23:21,840 --> 00:23:23,840 Very slow. 279 00:23:26,040 --> 00:23:27,480 Nothing there! 280 00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:30,520 So this one is done now? 281 00:23:35,480 --> 00:23:40,200 You can see already she's got impatient with my pathetic efforts. 282 00:23:58,280 --> 00:24:01,520 'The animals are driven back out onto the slopes. 283 00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:04,040 'They'll spend the rest of the day grazing 284 00:24:04,040 --> 00:24:07,040 'before they're brought home for the night. 285 00:24:10,560 --> 00:24:13,280 'The next job is bread baking. 286 00:24:13,280 --> 00:24:15,760 'First, we need fuel for the fire. 287 00:24:15,760 --> 00:24:18,320 'There are no trees up this high, 288 00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:21,520 'but there's a never-ending supply of yak dung.' 289 00:24:28,960 --> 00:24:32,040 'The herders come back to this camp every year 290 00:24:32,040 --> 00:24:35,520 'so there are stone huts here as well as yurts.' 291 00:24:38,400 --> 00:24:41,280 It's quite smoky in here, isn't it? 292 00:24:41,280 --> 00:24:44,520 The dung, it makes a lot of smoke in your eyes. 293 00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:55,040 So it is flour, water, salt. 294 00:24:57,040 --> 00:24:59,520 The lid goes on. 295 00:25:00,520 --> 00:25:07,120 So you put the hot dung on top of the lid and that cooks the bread. 296 00:25:12,040 --> 00:25:14,520 Bread with tea is the Wakhi staple. 297 00:25:14,520 --> 00:25:18,520 It's the only thing many people eat for breakfast, lunch, 298 00:25:18,520 --> 00:25:23,040 and dinner, day after day, week after week. 299 00:25:45,760 --> 00:25:49,520 'Traders from the west of the province arrive in camp. 300 00:25:49,520 --> 00:25:53,280 'It's taken them 25 days to cross the mountains.' 301 00:25:54,280 --> 00:25:56,560 Why did you come here? 302 00:26:00,440 --> 00:26:03,520 So are there many traders like you 303 00:26:03,520 --> 00:26:06,000 that come to this area to buy animals? 304 00:26:10,680 --> 00:26:17,480 Do you come here because the Wakhi people have very good animals? 305 00:26:25,040 --> 00:26:28,040 'These men may get a good deal up here, 306 00:26:28,040 --> 00:26:31,760 'but this is the only way the Wakhi have of earning any money. 307 00:26:31,760 --> 00:26:36,040 'Nisa has a few yaks, and she sold one to the trader.' 308 00:26:37,040 --> 00:26:42,480 So are you happy today because you sold a yak? 309 00:26:47,040 --> 00:26:51,000 She said, I'm unhappy. You are unhappy? Why? 310 00:26:54,120 --> 00:26:58,840 So she... This was a good yak for her? She didn't want to sell? 311 00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:15,280 'As well as providing everyday necessities like milk and wool, 312 00:27:15,280 --> 00:27:19,040 'the family's animals can be cashed in when times are hard. 313 00:27:19,040 --> 00:27:23,240 'As long as they have their herd, they have the means to survive.' 314 00:27:23,240 --> 00:27:27,520 She wants you to spin the wool. I might break it. I might break it. 315 00:27:30,040 --> 00:27:32,040 LAUGHTER 316 00:27:32,040 --> 00:27:35,520 How do I do it? It's gone very thick here. 317 00:27:40,040 --> 00:27:42,240 You're not helping at all. 318 00:27:47,040 --> 00:27:49,520 'The shepherds are highly mobile, 319 00:27:49,520 --> 00:27:53,120 'migrating as the cold weather starts to set in. 320 00:27:53,120 --> 00:27:56,040 'The Wakhi call these journeys the "kuch" 321 00:27:56,040 --> 00:28:00,040 'and I've come here at the end of summer hoping to take part in one. 322 00:28:00,040 --> 00:28:03,040 'Mulung-dhan is low down and sheltered 323 00:28:03,040 --> 00:28:06,040 'and no-one has any plans to move yet. 324 00:28:06,040 --> 00:28:08,520 'But we've heard there is another camp 325 00:28:08,520 --> 00:28:11,800 'where the people are getting ready to make a kuch 326 00:28:11,800 --> 00:28:15,040 'so we pack our bags and say our goodbyes.' 327 00:28:17,480 --> 00:28:19,280 Thank you. 328 00:28:29,320 --> 00:28:34,040 The village that we're heading to now is the highest of all of them. 329 00:28:34,040 --> 00:28:38,520 It's tucked right up at the base of the mountains at the snow line... 330 00:28:40,040 --> 00:28:45,040 ..so if anyone's thinking of moving for the winter, 331 00:28:45,040 --> 00:28:49,560 I would imagine it would be this community that moves first. 332 00:29:00,640 --> 00:29:05,040 'Our destination is 4,500 metres above sea level 333 00:29:05,040 --> 00:29:08,640 'and is the most remote settlement in the Big Pamir.' 334 00:29:10,960 --> 00:29:15,040 We're getting our first glimpse of the village now... 335 00:29:17,040 --> 00:29:21,040 ..and it is noticeably higher, not just because my legs ache 336 00:29:21,040 --> 00:29:25,040 but because the air has a real biting chill to it. 337 00:29:25,040 --> 00:29:27,520 The sun may be bright 338 00:29:27,520 --> 00:29:31,480 but the wind is coming straight off those snowy peaks. 339 00:29:39,600 --> 00:29:42,520 'The village is called Asan Katich. 340 00:29:42,520 --> 00:29:44,520 'About 50 people live here, 341 00:29:44,520 --> 00:29:47,520 'so it's almost twice the size of Mulung-dhan. 342 00:29:47,520 --> 00:29:51,840 'And we're in luck. They're getting ready to move - to make a kuch. 343 00:29:52,840 --> 00:29:55,040 'But there's a problem. 344 00:29:55,040 --> 00:29:59,520 'Yesterday, we sent someone ahead to ask if we could film here, 345 00:29:59,520 --> 00:30:01,520 'and we were given the OK, 346 00:30:01,520 --> 00:30:05,080 'but, now, some of the men seem less keen. 347 00:30:15,280 --> 00:30:18,520 'We spend the rest of the day talking things through, 348 00:30:18,520 --> 00:30:21,440 'waiting for a final decision. 349 00:30:26,520 --> 00:30:30,040 'In a way, I totally understand the men's reluctance. 350 00:30:30,040 --> 00:30:33,280 'How would we react if strangers turned up at our homes 351 00:30:33,280 --> 00:30:35,520 'and asked to film us? 352 00:30:35,520 --> 00:30:38,760 'But we were given such a warm welcome back in Mulung-dhan, 353 00:30:38,760 --> 00:30:42,200 'it seems strange that things could be so different up here.' 354 00:30:43,200 --> 00:30:47,280 It may be that this is just a very remote community. 355 00:30:47,280 --> 00:30:50,520 Even their village in the valley is very remote. 356 00:30:50,520 --> 00:30:53,040 They won't have seen a lot of foreigners 357 00:30:53,040 --> 00:30:56,040 and so we think that, quite understandably, 358 00:30:56,040 --> 00:30:59,280 when we all turn up they just think, "What are you doing here?" 359 00:30:59,280 --> 00:31:03,040 And what we hope is that, maybe tomorrow, 360 00:31:03,040 --> 00:31:07,360 they might feel more comfortable about us filming. 361 00:31:19,320 --> 00:31:22,040 'Next morning, things are still a bit tense. 362 00:31:22,040 --> 00:31:27,800 'The men tell us we can film in the camp, but the women are off limits. 363 00:31:28,800 --> 00:31:32,040 'But not everyone is happy with this decision.' 364 00:31:32,040 --> 00:31:35,360 Some of the women in the village have said, "Don't tell a soul. 365 00:31:35,360 --> 00:31:37,800 "Go and get a camera, come and film us." 366 00:31:37,800 --> 00:31:40,040 So that's what I'm going to do. 367 00:31:41,440 --> 00:31:44,040 WHISPERING 368 00:31:46,520 --> 00:31:49,040 'All they are doing is making bread 369 00:31:49,040 --> 00:31:52,040 'but they have a mischievous look in their eye. 370 00:32:17,040 --> 00:32:20,760 'One of the women walks behind me to look at the camera's flip-out screen.' 371 00:32:33,520 --> 00:32:36,720 'I put the camera away before we're discovered. 372 00:32:38,720 --> 00:32:42,520 'Then, a woman called Bakht Begum says she wants to show me 373 00:32:42,520 --> 00:32:45,040 'how to make food for the winter. 374 00:32:45,040 --> 00:32:50,040 'No-one, it seems, tells this lady what she can or cannot do. 375 00:32:53,040 --> 00:32:55,640 'I'm immediately put to work.' 376 00:32:55,640 --> 00:32:58,760 So...in here... 377 00:32:58,760 --> 00:33:01,040 we have boiled milk 378 00:33:01,040 --> 00:33:04,960 and we churn it and what do we make? 379 00:33:10,520 --> 00:33:14,040 Making the butter now. Making the batter now? Ah, OK. 380 00:33:15,280 --> 00:33:18,280 And we have this ingenious system 381 00:33:18,280 --> 00:33:22,400 of a...sort of, paddle, erm... 382 00:33:22,400 --> 00:33:25,040 and this leather strap. 383 00:33:27,040 --> 00:33:31,040 And we're churning it for, I'm not quite sure how long, 384 00:33:31,040 --> 00:33:34,280 I'm not quite sure how long I'm going to be able to last. 385 00:33:34,280 --> 00:33:37,480 She's incredibly strong and very feisty, this woman. 386 00:33:43,520 --> 00:33:46,040 You want me to do it now by myself? 387 00:33:48,040 --> 00:33:50,520 I'm not sure this is going to work. Let's see. 388 00:33:50,520 --> 00:33:53,040 Like that, like that. 389 00:33:57,040 --> 00:33:59,040 It's very hard. 390 00:34:01,040 --> 00:34:03,040 I'm exhausted! 391 00:34:05,600 --> 00:34:10,920 It seems that the summer is the time when all the dairy produce 392 00:34:10,920 --> 00:34:15,160 that they make is all made up here in the mountains 393 00:34:15,160 --> 00:34:20,360 and then stored and taken down to the village for the winter. 394 00:34:23,040 --> 00:34:28,400 'After many hours of churning, the fat of the milk separates out.' 395 00:34:28,400 --> 00:34:33,360 So this is the butter. It comes from here? Aha! 396 00:34:33,360 --> 00:34:37,520 'The remaining butter milk is boiled again for a few hours 397 00:34:37,520 --> 00:34:39,520 'and allowed to cool. 398 00:34:39,520 --> 00:34:41,760 'The water is then squeezed out, 399 00:34:41,760 --> 00:34:45,040 'leaving a moist, yoghurt-like paste called qurut.' 400 00:34:45,040 --> 00:34:47,040 Can I try? 401 00:34:49,040 --> 00:34:52,040 Mmm! Very good, 402 00:34:52,040 --> 00:34:54,040 Very good yoghurt. 403 00:34:54,040 --> 00:34:57,400 So it is a complete dairy - yoghurt, butter. 404 00:34:57,400 --> 00:34:59,520 'Nothing is wasted. 405 00:34:59,520 --> 00:35:03,360 'Stale bread goes into the leftover residue and is given to the dogs.' 406 00:35:05,480 --> 00:35:08,360 The dogs are going to get well fed tonight. 407 00:35:13,040 --> 00:35:18,040 'Everyone's been busy packing up, getting ready for the kuch. 408 00:35:18,040 --> 00:35:22,040 'The chief has come up from the main village in the valley to oversee things. 409 00:35:22,040 --> 00:35:26,080 'Crucially for us, he seems very relaxed that we are here 410 00:35:26,080 --> 00:35:29,040 'and he gives us his full support. 411 00:35:49,400 --> 00:35:54,320 'We're given the OK just as the herd is driven back for milking 412 00:35:54,320 --> 00:35:58,040 'and, as if by magic, the women appear.' 413 00:36:13,200 --> 00:36:17,160 What's so incredible is that you have kids as young as this 414 00:36:17,160 --> 00:36:23,040 all helping, all manoeuvring the sheep and the goats, 415 00:36:23,040 --> 00:36:27,040 and you can see that they literally learn their craft 416 00:36:27,040 --> 00:36:30,000 from the moment they can walk. 417 00:36:35,520 --> 00:36:38,520 'But the young workers do get the odd break. 418 00:36:38,520 --> 00:36:41,040 'Little girls have no dolls to dress 419 00:36:41,040 --> 00:36:43,280 'so they make do with goats instead.' 420 00:37:00,320 --> 00:37:03,040 So our breakthrough came. 421 00:37:03,040 --> 00:37:07,040 I'm so delighted that we're able to film here 422 00:37:07,040 --> 00:37:11,040 and, the day after tomorrow, the whole village is going to move 423 00:37:11,040 --> 00:37:15,040 and we'll get a sense of the true scale of the kuch 424 00:37:15,040 --> 00:37:19,040 when everybody and all their livestock move down into the valley. 425 00:37:32,160 --> 00:37:36,040 'The kuch will move the camp to a lower, more sheltered spot. 426 00:37:36,040 --> 00:37:39,360 'But there's still lots of work to do before we leave. 427 00:37:39,360 --> 00:37:41,520 'The women take to the roof 428 00:37:41,520 --> 00:37:44,720 'for the next stage of winter food production. 429 00:37:48,040 --> 00:37:51,240 'The qurut paste, made from boiled buttermilk, 430 00:37:51,240 --> 00:37:55,040 'has been drained and now needs to dry.' 431 00:37:55,040 --> 00:37:58,960 This, you roll it and put in the sun? 432 00:38:05,120 --> 00:38:08,040 'From milking to churning to drying, 433 00:38:08,040 --> 00:38:11,520 'making qurut is what this time of year is all about.' 434 00:38:11,520 --> 00:38:15,040 So this is an important product 435 00:38:15,040 --> 00:38:18,560 that you make while you're here in the summer? 436 00:38:37,040 --> 00:38:40,520 It actually...it tastes like feta. 437 00:38:40,520 --> 00:38:44,040 It's a kind of salty, soft, almost a cheese. 438 00:38:44,040 --> 00:38:46,760 You don't really taste it like yoghurt. 439 00:38:46,760 --> 00:38:48,480 They're very good. 440 00:38:49,480 --> 00:38:53,840 'The qurut is dried and bagged up. It should last for six months - 441 00:38:53,840 --> 00:38:58,240 'just long enough to see everyone through the winter.' 442 00:39:08,880 --> 00:39:11,920 I don't want it to fall on your head. 443 00:39:11,920 --> 00:39:15,040 'The migration is going to be in two waves. 444 00:39:15,040 --> 00:39:17,520 'An advance party will leave today. 445 00:39:17,520 --> 00:39:20,520 'Everyone else, including Bakht Begum and myself, 446 00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:23,040 'will follow on tomorrow. 447 00:39:23,040 --> 00:39:26,000 'There's a lot of work to be done. The pressure is on.' 448 00:39:28,840 --> 00:39:31,720 Faster? OK. 449 00:39:34,960 --> 00:39:38,880 'Their livestock provide the Wakhi with almost everything they need. 450 00:39:38,880 --> 00:39:41,640 'Wool is compressed into felt panels. 451 00:39:41,640 --> 00:39:44,040 'Yak hair is twisted into ropes. 452 00:39:44,040 --> 00:39:48,520 'And the animals themselves are removal vans.' 453 00:39:54,040 --> 00:39:57,040 You know that feeling when you're trying to pack up the car 454 00:39:57,040 --> 00:40:01,520 and someone says, "Shall I help?", and you just want to go, "No, let me get on and do it." 455 00:40:01,520 --> 00:40:04,040 That's what's happening at the moment. 456 00:40:05,040 --> 00:40:08,040 This guy is saying, "Well, why don't I put this sack on?" 457 00:40:08,040 --> 00:40:11,520 And he's going, "I don't want the sack. I want something else. 458 00:40:11,520 --> 00:40:13,520 "Get that sack!" 459 00:40:13,520 --> 00:40:15,520 LAUGHTER 460 00:40:25,840 --> 00:40:31,760 'The advance party sets off down the Pamir, heading for warmer pastures.' 461 00:40:35,520 --> 00:40:38,520 Last minute things that have been forgotten. 462 00:40:38,520 --> 00:40:41,320 "Hang on a minute, you've left your coat!" 463 00:40:47,760 --> 00:40:52,040 I could have been standing here 500 years ago 464 00:40:52,040 --> 00:40:54,760 and witnessed exactly that same scene. 465 00:41:14,040 --> 00:41:18,040 'Next morning, winter is beginning to bite. 466 00:41:18,040 --> 00:41:21,040 'The snow makes it hard for the animals to graze 467 00:41:21,040 --> 00:41:24,760 'so the herd is immediately driven down the valley.' 468 00:41:29,920 --> 00:41:34,160 We've been here about 10 days now. 469 00:41:36,160 --> 00:41:40,640 It is an exhausting...way of life. 470 00:41:42,560 --> 00:41:46,520 And doing anything at this altitude just wears you out. 471 00:41:46,520 --> 00:41:49,720 It's like someone's put bricks in the bottom of your boots. 472 00:41:49,720 --> 00:41:53,160 And, erm, I look at these guys 473 00:41:53,160 --> 00:41:58,040 and the women, who seem totally tireless. 474 00:42:00,360 --> 00:42:05,040 'But there's lots to be done and I try to make myself useful. 475 00:42:10,120 --> 00:42:13,520 'The women and children are wearing their finest clothes, 476 00:42:13,520 --> 00:42:16,280 'giving the occasion a festival air.' 477 00:42:28,760 --> 00:42:32,040 Are you pleased to be moving? 478 00:42:32,040 --> 00:42:35,760 WOMAN TRANSLATES 479 00:42:56,520 --> 00:43:00,000 Really? Not feeling so good today? 480 00:43:01,520 --> 00:43:06,040 'Finally, the most important cargo of all - a summer's worth of qurut 481 00:43:06,040 --> 00:43:07,400 'and butter.' 482 00:43:07,400 --> 00:43:09,480 This is a precious load. 483 00:43:09,480 --> 00:43:14,320 That represents hours and hours and hours of really physical labour. 484 00:43:20,800 --> 00:43:24,440 Oh! It's like sitting on a sofa with legs. 485 00:43:25,440 --> 00:43:28,760 'The yurts are down, the yaks are loaded. 486 00:43:28,760 --> 00:43:31,200 'and our kuch begins.' 487 00:43:55,040 --> 00:43:58,280 They're such a smooth ride. 488 00:43:58,280 --> 00:44:01,040 They seem to have built-in shock-absorbers, 489 00:44:01,040 --> 00:44:05,040 so, even over this very rough terrain, 490 00:44:05,040 --> 00:44:08,400 you feel like you're almost floating over it. 491 00:44:16,920 --> 00:44:20,040 So we get off here? Yeah? OK. 492 00:44:21,520 --> 00:44:23,520 Thanks you, yak. 493 00:44:23,520 --> 00:44:25,520 So we stay here? OK. 494 00:44:25,520 --> 00:44:30,520 So, I think what's happening, in the good tradition of any house move 495 00:44:30,520 --> 00:44:32,840 is that there will be tea. 496 00:44:35,040 --> 00:44:39,840 Wow, look at this! Ah, it's a perfect picnic. 497 00:44:39,840 --> 00:44:42,040 Tashakur. 498 00:44:42,040 --> 00:44:45,920 'We've passed close to another herding camp. 499 00:44:45,920 --> 00:44:49,000 'The women come out bearing tea and bread. 500 00:44:50,000 --> 00:44:53,280 'Only a few hundred Wakhi shepherds live up here, 501 00:44:53,280 --> 00:44:55,520 'spread out across a huge area. 502 00:44:55,520 --> 00:44:59,520 'Moments like these forge bonds between disparate communities.' 503 00:45:03,720 --> 00:45:05,520 OK. 504 00:45:11,520 --> 00:45:15,560 This feels like such an ancient tradition... 505 00:45:17,560 --> 00:45:20,040 ..that has been held on to 506 00:45:20,040 --> 00:45:24,080 not for any romantic reasons, 507 00:45:24,080 --> 00:45:28,080 simply reasons that are practical. 508 00:45:28,080 --> 00:45:31,040 This is how these people live. 509 00:45:36,600 --> 00:45:40,520 'It's mid-afternoon by the time we get to Vagboy, 510 00:45:40,520 --> 00:45:44,760 'a temporary herding camp at the foot of a huge scree slope.' 511 00:45:47,520 --> 00:45:50,520 You can see already that there's more pasture, 512 00:45:50,520 --> 00:45:53,040 there's more grass down here. 513 00:45:53,040 --> 00:45:55,520 It's definitely warmer. 514 00:45:55,520 --> 00:45:57,520 And, erm... 515 00:45:57,520 --> 00:46:00,040 so now is the big task of settling in, 516 00:46:00,040 --> 00:46:02,280 re-putting up the yurts 517 00:46:02,280 --> 00:46:05,040 and, erm, yeah... 518 00:46:05,040 --> 00:46:08,240 making ourselves at home. 519 00:46:18,640 --> 00:46:23,080 'It's much harder putting a yurt up than taking it down. 520 00:46:23,080 --> 00:46:26,280 'They are giant, 3D jigsaw puzzles. 521 00:46:26,280 --> 00:46:28,560 'Get the wrong pole in the wrong place 522 00:46:28,560 --> 00:46:32,040 'and you have to start again from scratch.' 523 00:46:38,040 --> 00:46:39,520 Are you OK? 524 00:46:39,520 --> 00:46:43,920 'I help Bakht Begum move into the hut that will be her home 525 00:46:43,920 --> 00:46:46,960 'for the next few weeks. 526 00:46:52,640 --> 00:46:55,280 'The herd is driven into camp. 527 00:46:55,280 --> 00:46:59,200 'Nothing gets in the way of milking. 528 00:47:10,520 --> 00:47:13,520 'A few hours later, all the yurts are up 529 00:47:13,520 --> 00:47:17,600 'and the smell of burning yak dung fills the air.' 530 00:47:17,600 --> 00:47:20,520 So what are you cooking, Begum? 531 00:47:28,320 --> 00:47:31,280 'This meal is only made on important occasions - 532 00:47:31,280 --> 00:47:35,520 'religious festivals, funerals and at the end of a kuch.' 533 00:47:35,520 --> 00:47:38,040 What have you put in here? 534 00:47:41,040 --> 00:47:45,720 A special oil, flour, 535 00:47:45,720 --> 00:47:48,520 A little bit of salt. A little bit of salt. 536 00:47:52,240 --> 00:47:54,040 Very warm? Yes. 537 00:47:58,040 --> 00:48:00,040 Mmm! 538 00:48:00,040 --> 00:48:03,040 Very good, very good. 539 00:48:05,480 --> 00:48:10,040 What seems so special about this dish is that 540 00:48:10,040 --> 00:48:14,520 it combines all the things that the Wakhi produce. 541 00:48:14,520 --> 00:48:17,760 They produce the wheat and barley down in the valley 542 00:48:17,760 --> 00:48:19,520 that makes the flour. 543 00:48:19,520 --> 00:48:23,280 They milk the sheep that makes the butter that makes the oil. 544 00:48:23,280 --> 00:48:26,240 So everything in this bowl is really... 545 00:48:26,240 --> 00:48:30,080 it's like all the Wakhi produce brought together. 546 00:48:35,040 --> 00:48:38,040 Definitely, on a cold winter's night, 547 00:48:38,040 --> 00:48:41,200 if somebody gave you a bowl of this, you would not complain. 548 00:48:41,200 --> 00:48:43,040 It's very good. 549 00:48:43,040 --> 00:48:44,360 Tashakur. 550 00:48:55,960 --> 00:49:00,320 'Life quickly returns to its normal routine. 551 00:49:13,760 --> 00:49:16,760 'Mamad Ayoub is repairing felt panels 552 00:49:16,760 --> 00:49:18,720 'that were damaged on the kuch. 553 00:49:18,720 --> 00:49:23,520 'This way of life feels timeless. But how long will it last?' 554 00:49:24,520 --> 00:49:29,760 Do you think that your son's children 555 00:49:29,760 --> 00:49:34,800 will want to come to the Pamir to be shepherds? 556 00:49:47,080 --> 00:49:52,040 Is there one thing that you think 557 00:49:52,040 --> 00:49:56,640 would make life easier for the Wakhan? 558 00:50:23,600 --> 00:50:28,040 'The Wakhan Corridor is the poorest district in the poorest province 559 00:50:28,040 --> 00:50:31,040 'in one of the poorest countries in the world. 560 00:50:31,040 --> 00:50:34,040 'It's hard to see how things can change, 561 00:50:34,040 --> 00:50:36,600 'how life here could be made easier. 562 00:50:36,600 --> 00:50:39,280 'It feels like the future for the Wakhi 563 00:50:39,280 --> 00:50:43,600 'for the next few decades at least, will be much the same as their past. 564 00:50:46,040 --> 00:50:50,080 'The constant struggle to survive does take its toll.' 565 00:50:50,080 --> 00:50:52,320 Is this a very hard life? 566 00:51:11,560 --> 00:51:13,760 Seven children? 567 00:51:37,040 --> 00:51:41,040 'As many as one in five Wakhi children die 568 00:51:41,040 --> 00:51:44,040 'before they reach their first birthday. 569 00:51:48,040 --> 00:51:52,280 'Half of Wakhi children under two are malnourished. 570 00:51:53,280 --> 00:51:55,520 'Because of the harsh conditions, 571 00:51:55,520 --> 00:52:00,920 'average life expectancy for the Wakhi is only 35 years of age. 572 00:52:11,440 --> 00:52:15,120 'Bakht Begum's life story is heart-rending, 573 00:52:15,120 --> 00:52:19,040 'so I'm touched when she says she now thinks of me 574 00:52:19,040 --> 00:52:21,280 'as her honorary daughter.' 575 00:52:35,520 --> 00:52:38,520 I feel very honoured to be Feroza. 576 00:52:43,040 --> 00:52:47,040 'Bakht Begum has no children up here to look after her 577 00:52:47,040 --> 00:52:49,560 'and she has few animals of her own, 578 00:52:49,560 --> 00:52:53,520 'but she has been lent some sheep and goats by wealthier herders. 579 00:52:53,520 --> 00:52:57,520 'She can milk them, and breed from them, before eventually 580 00:52:57,520 --> 00:53:00,280 'returning the animals to their rightful owners. 581 00:53:00,280 --> 00:53:04,520 'So she always has something to eat and something to do. 582 00:53:08,040 --> 00:53:11,200 'In the absence of any outside help, 583 00:53:11,200 --> 00:53:15,520 'the Wakhi have created a simple but effective welfare system. 584 00:53:47,760 --> 00:53:50,520 'It's my last day in the Pamir. 585 00:53:52,800 --> 00:53:57,280 'We've bought a sheep and are throwing a farewell feast. 586 00:53:57,280 --> 00:54:02,520 'The chief blesses the knife and the sheep's throat is cut.' 587 00:54:05,040 --> 00:54:10,280 The fleece has come off in one very neat piece. 588 00:54:10,280 --> 00:54:15,600 I'm envious of their, erm, butchery skills. 589 00:54:18,960 --> 00:54:23,520 'When we kill a lamb in the UK, we throw as much as a fifth of it away. 590 00:54:23,520 --> 00:54:28,080 'Here, everything goes in the pot - brains, lungs, heart. 591 00:54:28,080 --> 00:54:31,520 'Every last drop of blood is savoured.' 592 00:54:36,440 --> 00:54:38,520 Tashakur. 593 00:54:38,520 --> 00:54:40,520 Salaam, salaam! 594 00:54:43,160 --> 00:54:47,040 'Animals are only slaughtered on special occasions like marriages. 595 00:54:47,040 --> 00:54:50,560 'They're too valuable to eat otherwise.' 596 00:55:06,480 --> 00:55:10,120 'People here are lucky if they eat meat once a month. 597 00:55:10,120 --> 00:55:12,920 'At home we take it for granted, 598 00:55:12,920 --> 00:55:16,040 'often eating meat once or twice a day. 599 00:55:20,520 --> 00:55:23,520 'It's time to leave the Big Pamir. 600 00:55:25,480 --> 00:55:30,040 'It's been a real privilege to have experienced, for a short while, 601 00:55:30,040 --> 00:55:32,520 'how the Wakhi shepherds live. 602 00:55:32,520 --> 00:55:36,040 'But it's incredibly tough up here and, I have to admit, 603 00:55:36,040 --> 00:55:40,040 'the thought of a few home comforts is rather appealing.' 604 00:55:40,040 --> 00:55:42,440 I haven't washed for three weeks. 605 00:55:42,440 --> 00:55:46,040 There are no loos that flush or otherwise 606 00:55:46,040 --> 00:55:49,600 for probably...a good 100 miles or so from here. 607 00:55:51,040 --> 00:55:54,520 And at this stage in the game, am I looking forward to 608 00:55:54,520 --> 00:55:59,040 a nice clean bathroom, a hot shower, a cup of tea and a sofa? 609 00:55:59,040 --> 00:56:02,320 I'd be totally lying if I said I wasn't. 610 00:56:04,040 --> 00:56:08,040 One thing I will miss will be Bakht Begum's friendship. 611 00:56:21,040 --> 00:56:23,040 Tashakur. 612 00:56:30,320 --> 00:56:33,880 'The Wakhi may be some of the most traditional herders in the world, 613 00:56:33,880 --> 00:56:37,040 'but there are lessons we can learn from them. 614 00:56:37,040 --> 00:56:41,520 'As more and more sheep are raised worldwide, using new technology 615 00:56:41,520 --> 00:56:46,520 'and modern methods, I hope we don't forget all of the old ways - 616 00:56:46,520 --> 00:56:48,760 'about how to value our animals 617 00:56:48,760 --> 00:56:51,840 'and use them efficiently and respectfully.' 618 00:56:52,840 --> 00:56:56,760 There's something very heartening, I think, that in a country 619 00:56:56,760 --> 00:57:01,280 that is racked by war and religious strife and poverty, 620 00:57:01,280 --> 00:57:06,520 in a world that is upside-down and sometimes, kind of, too miserable 621 00:57:06,520 --> 00:57:11,040 to contemplate, there are these people in these mountains 622 00:57:11,040 --> 00:57:17,040 surviving, actually, with dignity and with honour 623 00:57:17,040 --> 00:57:23,520 with no guns, with no strife, 624 00:57:23,520 --> 00:57:27,520 with no battles, just the battles with the elements 625 00:57:27,520 --> 00:57:31,000 and the battles of keeping their animals alive. 626 00:57:32,000 --> 00:57:35,040 'There is nothing romantic about this way of life, 627 00:57:35,040 --> 00:57:39,280 'but it is inspiring to discover that the ancient connection 628 00:57:39,280 --> 00:57:42,520 'between shepherd and flock still exists, 629 00:57:42,520 --> 00:57:46,960 'allowing both to survive in such a harsh, unforgiving land.' 630 00:57:46,960 --> 00:57:49,760 Thank you for letting us stay in your village. 631 00:57:55,440 --> 00:57:57,440 Thank you. 632 00:57:57,440 --> 00:58:00,040 Oh, it's wider than I thought! 633 00:58:05,560 --> 00:58:10,600 'My journey to remote herding communities doesn't end here. 634 00:58:11,600 --> 00:58:14,520 'Next time, I travel to the High Andes 635 00:58:14,520 --> 00:58:17,040 'where I get to grips with alpacas.' 636 00:58:17,040 --> 00:58:20,720 Aqui! Aqui! There you go. There you go. 637 00:58:20,720 --> 00:58:24,760 'Peru is at a crossroads between old and new ways of herding. 638 00:58:24,760 --> 00:58:29,400 'Can ancient tradition compete against science and technology?' 639 00:58:29,400 --> 00:58:32,640 What I'm going for is what I go for when I pick a racehorse, 640 00:58:32,640 --> 00:58:35,000 which is a pretty face and a nice bum. 641 00:58:52,000 --> 00:58:56,040 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 53446

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