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21 st century europe...
...730 million people...
a relentless force of change.
Man and nature must find new ways to coexist.
In europe's cities, people and animals crowd together.
The changes that have made europe what it is today...
have been ever accelerating.
400 generations had to pass to take
europe from stone age farming to industrial agriculture.
Yet just 100 generations laid the densest road network in the world.
And it has taken only 10 generations to fell more forest
than all their ancestors combined.
But these are nothing compared to the changes taking us
in to the 21 st century.
New technology...
new invaders...
new efforts to bring back lost wildlife...
and new wilderness... helping natives to return.
Since it's birth billions of years ago,
europe has been in a constant state of change...
...it's wildest fringes are timeless reminders
of the fundamental forces still at work today...
and which will ultimately shape the future of this unique continent.
Rome - where europe's taste for city life began.
Two thousand years ago, this was the sole metropolis on the continent.
Today, three out of four europeans are city dwellers...
...not all of them are human.
For every million people in italy there's over half a million cars...
...and here in rome, nearly as many motorbikes...
even in the middle of winter, there's plenty of basking to be done...
but at this time of year it's not without risk...
romans have learned to be wary of clouds...
huge numbers of winter tourists are flying in from the north...
rome's ancient soothsayers used to read the future
of the empire from the flight patterns of these birds.
But today, when swarms of starlings darken the sky,
you don't need to be psychic to divine imminent disaster.
Starling droppings are extremely corrosive...
eating fabric, paints, metal and stone...
and they're as slippery as soap.
Three million birds come here each winter.
For one reason only...
the city is literally a "hotspot"...
significantly warmer than the surrounding countryside.
Cities burn lots of fuel.
Their buildings absorb sunlight and smog helps to retain the warmth.
Each evening, as the starlings descend on rome,
they rain down tons of foul smelling droppings.
But the empire strikes back.
Volunteers set out to defend the city.
These new legions come armed with searchlights and loudhailers...
blasting out starling distress calls.
The message is loud and clear... but will it be heeded?
Starlings are not the only birds that have adapted
well to the urban environment.
Vienna... at it's heart saint stephen's...
...one of europe's finest cathedrals.
Massive, yet intricate, it has caught the attention
of many a visitor over the past 500 years...
...including kestrels.
The gothic architecture mirrors the limestone crags of the nearby alps.
Kestrels like pigeons are drawn
to cities because they're natural cliff dwellers,
seeking shelter in high and inaccessible places.
Bats also find sanctuary here...
...but a night hunter haunts these belfries...
...the stone marten.
It's not after bats... but pigeon eggs.
From the roof of vienna's cathedral to charles bridge in old prague,
hundreds of thousands of stone martens patrol europe's
city streets - unseen and unsuspected.
Even people can find themselves victims.
Martens can't resist cars.
Beneath the bonnet there's a cosy den... and plenty to chew on...
in just one night in munich, west germany,
a single stone marten damaged 100 cars.
Martens are wily creatures...
but you'll certainly know if one has paid you a visit.
On the bright side, stone martens can increase personal fitness...
and even the use of public transport.
But on the down side...
are the steadily rising premiums for car insurance.
Daybreak in northern spain.
The medieval town of alfaro is anything but sleepy...
european white storks are natural tree dwellers,
but with a shortage of big, old trees, they resorted to boulders.
And with over crowding of these, they were forced to think again.
Now some 140 stork families reside on alfaro's cathedral alone.
But they're not here just for the real estate...
on their doorstep, there's an endless supply of food...
europe produces over 2 billion tons of household waste per year...
plenty of opportunity for scavengers...
griffon vultures are only too keen to join the feast.
Rubbish dumps offer more than just food.
For urban red foxes they also provide valuable den sites.
Estimates suggest some 10,000 red foxes may live in london alone.
These highly adaptable scavengers are now
establishing themselves in cities right across the continent.
And they're not the only ones.
Budapest. Spanning the river danube,
hungary's capital is a city flanked by woodland...
...making jogging something of an adventure sport.
During the rutting season,
wild boar can give you a good run for your money.
The woodlands around budapest, berlin and vienna are full of them.
The increased protection of wild boar in central,
eastern and southern europe has allowed numbers to soar.
Many of these normally secretive forest dwellers
have now lost their fear of man: They're overrunning villages,
city suburbs and farmland.
Farmers of ten find there's been an early harvest...
...and that their fields have even been ploughed.
Over millennia of agricultural growth,
some wild animals have found ways to exploit
the intensively groomed landscape.
All of this was once impenetrable forest.
Europe's moderate climate...
and rich geological past...
make it the most fertile continent on earth.
6 million square kilometers of prime fields and pastures.
From the rice fields of italy to the tulip fields of holland -
europe's agriculture is big business.
Each year 3 billion tulips are harvested
in holland and sent all around the world.
The continent produces around 250 billion euros worth of crops.
Where does all this leave wild nature?
In the days of traditional farming, hares were a frequent sight;
but heavy use of chemicals and radical landscaping drove
them from the fields.
But now there's a greater awareness of the needs of wildlife...
hares are making a healthy comeback across much
of europe's farmland...
but they've still got to watch their backs.
For roe deer some fields make important fawning grounds.
But thousands fall victim to agricultural
machinery during the summer harvest...
pink footed geese use the farms
of western europe as valuable stopovers.
Here they refuel during their long journey
to europe's remotest corners...
the untamed north...
...an arctic wilderness...
...stretching from scandinavia to the pole.
It's one of the world's most inhospitable climates,
only the hardiest can live here all year round.
But come summer, under the midnight sun,
the skies are alive with visitors.
Europe's remote northwest fringes are peppered
with islands and bathed by the gulf stream.
These ice free waters are among the most productive in the world.
But it's not just europe's highest latitudes
that have remained beyond our easy reach.
The alps... a wilderness towering
over the very heart of the continent.
Europe's tallest and most extensive mountain range.
The alps are flanked by sprawling forest...
...but europe's most prolific woodlands are found further east...
...here... among the carpathians and balkans.
Traditional farming persists, more in harmony with nature...
for centuries little has changed...
in europe's wild east, farmers and herdsmen
have always lived peacefully alongside big predators.
In the west, these same animals were feared and persecuted.
These forests are now crucial reservoirs
for animals that have vanished from much of the rest of europe.
Slovakia and romania are home to the greatest numbers of bears,
wolves and lynx on the continent.
For half a century this thriving eastern forest was largely
cut off from the remaining pockets of woodland in western europe.
From the baltic to the black sea,
europe was split in two...
the dividing line 3,000 kilometres long.
The iron curtain was a border of death, inhumane and unnatural...
...secured with mines, booby traps, electric fences,
watchtowers, attack dogs and thousands
of military troops and border police, with the order to kill.
Day and night, guards watched for any movement along the border.
Inside the fence was a five kilometre wide strip of land...
for decades, a no go zone...
when the iron curtain eventually came down,
the fence was demolished, minefields were cleared...
and watchtowers levelled.
Today, only a few traces of the curtain still linger -
like the odd patrol track.
But what does remain is a green corridor across the continent.
And here, wild nature is quick to reclaim abandoned buildings...
and derelict military bases...
creating a new kind of wilderness.
For the first time in a century, wolves are back in germany.
They have made their own way from the east.
A former soviet military base not far from
berlin is now a refuge for returning wildlife.
The old border of death... has become a new corridor of life.
Along it's length, countries have united
to help create a string of new national parks.
There are few places on the continent
where nature now has such free reign...
and already wildlife is on the move.
Lynx thrive in the vast woodlands of poland and slovakia,
but for the past century they've been on the brink
of extinction in western europe.
Now, europe's big cats are slowly making a comeback.
The wild backcountry of former yugoslavia
has always boasted a healthy population of brown bears.
Some have already made their way back to the west,
reaching as far as the alps.
But even with the help of new green corridors,
they - and many others face serious obstacles.
Road accidents account for about half
of the all the animal fatalities on the continent...
most of them on the smaller country lanes.
With 5 million kilometres of tarmac,
europe's roads could wrap around the equator a hundred times.
There are 110 million cars in europe.
On some carriageways tens of thousands streak by every day.
Roads like these are totally impassable.
With more and more roads under construction,
what chance do animals have?
What's happening here-
and elsewhere across the continent is actually a glimmer of hope.
A green bridge... 200m wide... and spanning the motorway.
It's carefully planted with shrubs and trees...
and positioned to re open an old migration route.
And there's another means of access across
the continent from east to west... waterways.
They've always been important corridors for wildlife.
Thousands of trees are being felled along these backwaters of the danube.
The loggers... beavers.
After endless persecution they'd all but disappeared
from central and western europe by the end of the 19th century.
But since their re introduction near vienna just a decade ago,
they're busily reclaiming their old territory...
these sheltered wetlands along the former iron curtain are ideal...
and beaver numbers are rising fast.
It's one of europe's most successful homecomings.
Now, thanks to reintroduction programmes in several countries,
the population across the continent has recovered to over 250,000.
So few western europeans have ever seen a truly pristine riverscape...
only 2% of all the waterways on the continent are still natural.
And this is a river delta in it's natural state...
the danube... meandering it's way through ukraine,
bulgaria and romania... a vast expanse of wetland.
The lower danube is now the only place on the continent where -
far from being a disaster- annual flooding is welcomed.
The flood plains sustain a wealth of aquatic life...
some 80 kinds of fish and as many molluscs.
This, in turn, support one of the richest congregations
of bird life on the continent...
nearly three hundred different species...
for dalmatian and white pelicans,
the world's largest reed beds are crucial breeding grounds.
But wildlife does not have this special river all to it'self.
This is the same river in the west-
cut off from it's natural floodplains.
Both the danube and the rhine rivers have been radically straightened,
deepened and narrowed, dyked and dammed.
As road networks are overloaded,
traffic turns to these rivers as alternative highways.
200,000 vessels a year cross the dutch german border,
making the rhine the world's busiest waterway.
By the mid twentieth century,
industrial waste and domestic sewage polluted germany's biggest river.
A chemical disaster in the sixties was the coup de grace:
It killed off the last fish.
Until the nineteen twenties,
the rhine supported commercial fishing
all the way from the north sea to the alps.
Most prized of all was salmon,
but today the old tales of monster catches sound like fishermen's yarns.
In recent years the tide has turned.
Rather than forcing the river to accommodate big ships...
they're being replaced by smaller vessels...
strict anti pollution laws are now in force;
rivers and lakes right across western
europe are significantly cleaner than they were 50 years ago.
While some wildlife is returning to the rhine by it's own accord,
the atlantic salmon hasn't found it easy.
It needs a helping hand.
Each summer, for almost twenty years, millions
of specially bred youngsters have been released
into the tributaries of the river.
If just one in ten thousand of these little fish survives,
it's counted a success.
Young salmon face all sorts of hazards along the way...
both natural and man made.
Just a handful of adults make it back
to germany each year from their feeding grounds
far out in the north atlantic.
They're given an official welcome by the press and politicians.
Some of these re introduced salmon are now spawning,
raising the hope that this busy river will
one day return to it's former glory.
Each year, more and more visitors come to cologne,
to attend the river rhine festival.
They now have good reason to celebrate.
Like the rhine, only a decade ago, the river
elbe was poisoned and dead. Here, too, a clean up is underway...
and wildlife is returning.
But with the return of life have come surprises.
The fishermen are netting more than just fish.
It's eels they're after... and it's a good haul...
but their catch is being plundered
by a stranger to europe's waterways.
Mitten crabs.
These voracious invaders pose a serious threat to resident wildlife.
Mitten crabs are not native to europe.
So how did they get here?
Europe's big coastal ports - dover,
hamburg, rotterdam, bilbao, folkestone
are all gateways for intercontinental shipping and trade.
A single port like this might deal with 3 million containers a year.
That's over 300 every single hour,
day and night, arriving from every part of the globe.
Although measures are taken to keep out pests,
the overwhelming volume of goods makes it nigh on impossible.
Every year, 150 new alien species make it ashore.
Most will not survive.
Others find a small niche. But some become massive invaders.
Mitten crabs first arrived from asia decades ago.
Ironically, it was the cleaning up
of europe's rivers that allowed them to advance inland...
and wreak havoc.
But as invaders go, the mitten crab is not the most destructive.
The killer that could cut a swathe through
europe does not arrive in spectacular swarms.
Finding one is like looking for a needle in a haystack.
It may be hidden in any wood product from east asia.
It's a deadly monster...
...the asian longhorn beetle.
Most wood parasites specialize in certain trees.
Their populations only explode under rare conditions.
But the larvae of the asian longhorn beetle can feed on any wood.
If they escape into the wild and reproduce freely,
europe's forests might look like this.
A graveyard in swansea, wales.
British cemeteries often look wild... but this one is different.
For years, the local authority has battled
against an overwhelming onslaught.
It's a struggle against a seven headed hydra.
Japanese knotweed, imported from asia long ago
to grace europe's gardens, has jumped the fence.
It's poisonous roots can reach 3 metres down...
and it's powerful shoots will outgrow any native competitor.
Even if all the trees are killed off by alien beetles,
at least the countryside will still be green
thanks to alien plants.
If ever there is a lack of greenery in europe...
it's probably man made.
Just consider this landscape...
it looks like some future fantasy...
but this is europe today.
The mar de plastico, the sea of plastic in almeria,
southeastern spain.
It's visible from the moon.
Below the surface: Optimum growing conditions.
Computers regulate the water and nutrients... the temperature,
humidity and the carbon dioxide.
400 truckloads of peppers,
cucumbers and tomatoes are packed every day of the year.
Climate control has turned
spain's poorest region into one of europe's richest.
But all this depends on one thing... ...the sun.
Life on our planet is driven by energy sent in from space,
from 155 million kilometres away.
The amount of energy the earth receives from the sun is unimaginable,
but you can get a glimpse of it here in spain,
at europe's first solar power station.
In a ballet of perfect synchrony,
200 mirrors concentrate their reflections on a single receiver.
The operating temperature here reaches 1000 degrees celsius.
Even a slight variation in solar power reaching
the earth can radically change our living conditions.
Across the continent, we can already see this happening.
Europe is heating up - with dramatic consequences.
In recent years, alpine resorts have had
to take matters into their own hands.
Tens of thousands of snow cannons bombard the slopes.
Without them, the huge tourist industry would already be in meltdown.
Chillingly, from now on,
the most dramatic transformations on this continent
will be driven by climate change.
When glaciers melt, sea levels rise.
And as oceans warm up, they expand, drowning coastlines.
The thames barrier was built to save london from exceptional tides.
Already the barrier is proving too low.
It's not certain how much longer the sea can be kept at bay...
a rise of a metre per century is entirely possible.
At the next millennium, london might still look like this...
but not when the tide comes in.
If global warming persists,
england's capital would be completely swamped.
But then the pattern of the past two million years
has been a seesaw of cold and warm periods,
with the gulf stream changing it's course.
And that could put an entirely different spin on things.
London... and berlin.
Both stand where the last ice sheets ended.
During the next ice age,
life might only be possible under glass...
at the peak of the last glacial period,
everything north of berlin was a white, windy waste.
This would be nothing new-
it's happened countless times before...
equally possible... paris might become a tropical forest again...
or be swallowed by desert sands...
there's no reason to think that climate change will ever end...
nor will any of the more fundamental forces
that have shaped the continent come to rest.
250 million years from now,
europe is destined to merge with africa...
forming a new super continent.
But for now, this is a continent of living treasures...
...abundant, but not infinite...
...to be shared by humans and wild nature.
Europe's treasures:
...it's teeming cities...
...it's pleasant farmland...
...and it's raw wilderness...
they're all worth keeping.
They're all worth sharing.
They all combine to make this continent unique.
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