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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:51,920 --> 00:00:53,433 The Suez Canal. 2 00:00:53,520 --> 00:00:57,195 An immense ditch nearly 100 miles long, cut through the desert, 3 00:00:57,280 --> 00:01:00,829 linking the eastern end of the Mediterranean with the Red Sea 4 00:01:00,920 --> 00:01:03,195 and beyond the Indian Ocean. 5 00:01:03,280 --> 00:01:08,434 It was designed and promoted by a French diplomat, Count Ferdinand de Lesseps, 6 00:01:08,520 --> 00:01:11,910 in the 19th century, and its advantages were obvious. 7 00:01:12,000 --> 00:01:15,072 A vessel in the Mediterranean port of Marseilles, 8 00:01:15,160 --> 00:01:17,993 bound for Bombay and India, for example, 9 00:01:18,080 --> 00:01:21,550 could cut 5,800 miles off its voyage 10 00:01:21,640 --> 00:01:25,189 if only it could cross the isthmus of Suez. 11 00:01:25,280 --> 00:01:27,157 Inevitably, there were doubters. 12 00:01:27,240 --> 00:01:30,789 Some people said that the difference in level between the two seas was such 13 00:01:30,880 --> 00:01:34,111 that if the canal was cut, one would drain into the other. 14 00:01:34,200 --> 00:01:36,873 But in the end, it was decided to go ahead 15 00:01:36,960 --> 00:01:40,157 and the work started in 1859. 16 00:01:41,600 --> 00:01:43,670 Thousands of locally recruited labourers 17 00:01:43,760 --> 00:01:45,876 set about the job quite straightforwardly 18 00:01:45,960 --> 00:01:48,793 with picks, shovels and baskets. 19 00:01:48,880 --> 00:01:51,440 Some shallow lakes lay in the middle of the isthmus 20 00:01:51,520 --> 00:01:53,590 and de Lesseps' plan was to link them 21 00:01:53,680 --> 00:01:57,070 so that less than half the total length had to be dug from dry land. 22 00:01:57,680 --> 00:02:00,911 Even so, it was ten years before the work was completed 23 00:02:01,000 --> 00:02:03,912 and the first ships were able to sail through the canal. 24 00:02:07,560 --> 00:02:09,710 Travelling from the ports of western Europe, 25 00:02:09,800 --> 00:02:12,075 they entered the canal at portside, 26 00:02:12,160 --> 00:02:16,199 on the far eastern corner of the vast triangular delta of the Nile, 27 00:02:16,280 --> 00:02:19,511 here in the foreground dark with cultivation. 28 00:02:19,600 --> 00:02:22,910 They sailed down to the lakes in the centre of the isthmus 29 00:02:23,000 --> 00:02:24,911 and then on to the Red Sea. 30 00:02:25,920 --> 00:02:29,037 This is a tropical sea, an arm of the Indian 0cean, 31 00:02:29,120 --> 00:02:31,270 and it swarms with fish. 32 00:02:44,120 --> 00:02:46,953 There are far more species of marine organisms here 33 00:02:47,040 --> 00:02:48,393 than there are in the Mediterranean, 34 00:02:48,480 --> 00:02:52,758 which by comparison is something of an impoverished backwater. 35 00:03:01,600 --> 00:03:05,434 There are no locks on the Suez Canal, so when that waterway was opened, 36 00:03:05,520 --> 00:03:08,592 there was nothing to prevent species from these overcrowded waters 37 00:03:08,680 --> 00:03:11,319 from swimming into it, and they did. 38 00:03:11,400 --> 00:03:14,153 First, they established colonies in the canal itself, 39 00:03:14,240 --> 00:03:17,949 and then eventually they began to appear in the Mediterranean. 40 00:03:20,720 --> 00:03:23,632 This, the red soldier fish, is one of them, 41 00:03:23,720 --> 00:03:25,597 and it's very good eating. 42 00:03:25,680 --> 00:03:28,194 And since the cooks of the Mediterranean 43 00:03:28,280 --> 00:03:32,159 are always ready to welcome something new to the kitchen, 44 00:03:32,720 --> 00:03:35,837 they provide a very good record of the spread of this fish 45 00:03:35,920 --> 00:03:37,876 through the Mediterranean. 46 00:03:37,960 --> 00:03:41,430 In the 19th century, it was unknown here. 47 00:03:41,520 --> 00:03:45,991 At the beginning of the 20th century, it was being eaten in Suez, 48 00:03:46,080 --> 00:03:50,870 and by the 1930s, it was on the menu here in the island of Cyprus. 49 00:03:52,440 --> 00:03:57,116 Now, it's found in Tobruk, 1,000 miles west of Suez. 50 00:04:00,080 --> 00:04:03,595 The rabbit fish is another of these immigrants. 51 00:04:08,480 --> 00:04:11,472 And it's not just fish that have made the trip. 52 00:04:11,560 --> 00:04:14,518 This crab, too, comes from the Red Sea. 53 00:04:14,600 --> 00:04:18,229 In fact, over 100 species of one kind or another 54 00:04:18,320 --> 00:04:21,995 have travelled into the Mediterranean by courtesy of the Suez Canal, 55 00:04:22,080 --> 00:04:24,196 and the number is still growing. 56 00:04:27,280 --> 00:04:29,794 But while some immigrants in the Mediterranean 57 00:04:29,880 --> 00:04:32,440 greatly added to the variety of food, 58 00:04:32,520 --> 00:04:34,909 there was one that very severely damaged 59 00:04:35,000 --> 00:04:37,798 that other essential for the Mediterranean meal... 60 00:04:37,880 --> 00:04:39,632 the drink. 61 00:04:43,680 --> 00:04:47,468 Grape vines grow wild in many parts of the world. 62 00:04:47,560 --> 00:04:49,869 There are several species in North America 63 00:04:49,960 --> 00:04:53,669 and they are afflicted by a tiny aphid called phylloxera 64 00:04:53,760 --> 00:04:56,638 whose saliva, when injected into the leaves of a plant, 65 00:04:56,720 --> 00:04:58,551 induces galls. 66 00:04:59,520 --> 00:05:02,592 Inside each gall sits a female phylloxera, 67 00:05:02,680 --> 00:05:06,798 with her mouth parts sunk into the leaf tissue, drinking its sap, 68 00:05:06,880 --> 00:05:11,158 and at the same time laying eggs more or less nonstop. 69 00:05:20,440 --> 00:05:22,908 Without any contribution from a male, 70 00:05:23,000 --> 00:05:27,516 these eggs hatch into other females, which eventually leave the gall 71 00:05:27,600 --> 00:05:30,160 and crawl away to create homes of their own. 72 00:05:35,400 --> 00:05:38,392 But some, instead of crawling to another leaf, 73 00:05:38,480 --> 00:05:43,952 clamber down the stem into the ground and attach themselves to the roots. 74 00:05:46,360 --> 00:05:48,828 The galls they produce there kill the rootlets 75 00:05:48,920 --> 00:05:51,639 and therefore eventually the whole vine. 76 00:05:51,720 --> 00:05:53,790 0ne generation produces another 77 00:05:53,880 --> 00:05:57,111 and aphids spread to the roots of vines nearby, 78 00:05:57,200 --> 00:05:59,839 without necessarily returning to the leaves. 79 00:06:00,440 --> 00:06:05,309 Somehow, in the middle of the 19th century, these insects arrived in France, 80 00:06:05,400 --> 00:06:07,789 probably on the roots of North American vines 81 00:06:07,880 --> 00:06:10,758 that were being imported for the breeding of hybrids. 82 00:06:10,840 --> 00:06:15,994 And in the summer of 1863, French vineyards began to die. 83 00:06:16,080 --> 00:06:18,230 For some reason, the leaves of the French vines 84 00:06:18,320 --> 00:06:20,276 were not to phylloxera's taste, 85 00:06:20,360 --> 00:06:24,194 and the insects concentrated almost entirely on the roots. 86 00:06:24,280 --> 00:06:27,192 They were so small that for some time they were not even noticed 87 00:06:27,280 --> 00:06:30,795 and no one was sure why the vines all over France were dying. 88 00:06:30,880 --> 00:06:32,757 It was a national disaster. 89 00:06:33,400 --> 00:06:37,678 Then, a scientific committee found the culprit and the solution. 90 00:06:37,760 --> 00:06:41,958 Some species of American vines were immune to attacks on their roots. 91 00:06:42,040 --> 00:06:44,110 They should be brought across the Atlantic 92 00:06:44,200 --> 00:06:47,317 and the stems of French vines, with their immune leaves, 93 00:06:47,400 --> 00:06:48,753 grafted onto them. 94 00:06:48,840 --> 00:06:51,718 It was a drastic solution, but it worked. 95 00:06:55,280 --> 00:06:57,635 So, the situation was saved, 96 00:06:57,720 --> 00:07:00,393 but there are some connoisseurs who will tell you 97 00:07:00,480 --> 00:07:04,234 that the taste of the Mediterranean wines has never really recovered. 98 00:07:04,880 --> 00:07:07,792 So, during the 19th century, there were many invaders 99 00:07:07,880 --> 00:07:09,233 into the Mediterranean. 100 00:07:09,320 --> 00:07:11,675 From the east, like the red soldier fish. 101 00:07:11,760 --> 00:07:14,149 From the west, like the phylloxera aphid. 102 00:07:14,240 --> 00:07:17,550 But perhaps the most influential and lethal of all 103 00:07:17,640 --> 00:07:19,870 came down from the north. 104 00:07:20,760 --> 00:07:24,548 At the beginning of this century, the Mediterranean coasts of France and Italy 105 00:07:24,640 --> 00:07:28,553 were quiet and sleepy, basking in the warm sun. 106 00:07:28,640 --> 00:07:31,154 The French painters at the time were among the first 107 00:07:31,240 --> 00:07:33,549 to recognise and celebrate their charms. 108 00:07:42,800 --> 00:07:46,634 Soon, the fashionable rich began to travel down there for the summer, 109 00:07:46,720 --> 00:07:49,473 even though the journey from the cloudy, rainy north, 110 00:07:49,560 --> 00:07:53,109 which for most was by rail, was long and expensive. 111 00:08:03,560 --> 00:08:06,233 As the popularity of the French Riviera grew, 112 00:08:06,320 --> 00:08:08,515 the wealthier and the more adventurous 113 00:08:08,600 --> 00:08:11,353 moved across to the southern side of the Mediterranean 114 00:08:11,440 --> 00:08:13,158 to Tangier and Morocco 115 00:08:13,240 --> 00:08:15,913 and there they discovered more romantic villages 116 00:08:16,000 --> 00:08:17,877 and exotic peoples. 117 00:08:40,840 --> 00:08:42,637 Throughout the '20s and the '30s, 118 00:08:42,720 --> 00:08:45,280 the popularity of the Mediterranean grew 119 00:08:45,360 --> 00:08:46,679 and then came a development 120 00:08:46,760 --> 00:08:49,797 that made it an even more exciting and attractive place 121 00:08:49,880 --> 00:08:52,314 to a whole new group of holidaymakers. 122 00:09:03,040 --> 00:09:04,996 40 years ago, 123 00:09:05,080 --> 00:09:09,710 the Mediterranean world that lies just a few yards beyond the shoreline, 124 00:09:09,800 --> 00:09:14,635 was about as unknown and unexplored as the remote Amazonian jungles. 125 00:09:15,640 --> 00:09:18,154 True, men had floated across the surface of the sea 126 00:09:18,240 --> 00:09:21,755 and dangled lines with hooks on down into it, 127 00:09:21,840 --> 00:09:25,594 and they'd dragged nets blindly across the bottom of it, 128 00:09:25,680 --> 00:09:28,194 but that was really about all. 129 00:09:28,280 --> 00:09:30,555 And then, in the 1940s, 130 00:09:30,640 --> 00:09:33,313 Jacques Cousteau invented this... 131 00:09:33,400 --> 00:09:34,719 the demander. 132 00:09:34,800 --> 00:09:38,554 And, suddenly, a whole new world was on our doorstep. 133 00:10:02,240 --> 00:10:05,198 The sensation of being able to move effortlessly 134 00:10:05,280 --> 00:10:07,430 in not just two dimensions but in three... 135 00:10:07,520 --> 00:10:11,559 of being, in effect, weightless... was intoxicating. 136 00:10:11,640 --> 00:10:14,837 And so was the sight of so many totally new creatures 137 00:10:14,920 --> 00:10:16,672 that seemed to bear no relation whatever 138 00:10:16,760 --> 00:10:19,513 to the pallid corpses one might occasionally see 139 00:10:19,600 --> 00:10:21,352 on a fishmonger's slab. 140 00:10:35,960 --> 00:10:39,794 To add to the marvel, these creatures had never before seen 141 00:10:39,880 --> 00:10:43,634 two... legged, two... armed mammals trailing plumes of bubbles 142 00:10:43,720 --> 00:10:45,517 moving around in their world, 143 00:10:45,600 --> 00:10:48,398 and many were not in the least alarmed by them. 144 00:11:05,120 --> 00:11:07,031 As swimmers became braver, 145 00:11:07,120 --> 00:11:10,874 they dived deeper and found more and more excitements. 146 00:12:12,600 --> 00:12:15,637 0ur reaction, considering our past record, 147 00:12:15,720 --> 00:12:17,836 was only too predictable. 148 00:12:58,560 --> 00:13:00,755 (All shouting) 149 00:13:10,560 --> 00:13:14,109 0f course, the people of the Mediterranean, from prehistoric times, 150 00:13:14,200 --> 00:13:16,794 have reaped a rich harvest from their sea. 151 00:13:16,880 --> 00:13:20,634 Fish like these, for many centuries, were caught in great quantities 152 00:13:20,720 --> 00:13:22,631 by traditional methods. 153 00:13:22,720 --> 00:13:24,312 Men in small boats, 154 00:13:24,400 --> 00:13:27,198 relying on their intimate knowledge of their own patch of sea, 155 00:13:27,280 --> 00:13:29,874 and their understanding of the creatures that lived in it, 156 00:13:29,960 --> 00:13:33,873 would sail out one day and return the next with rich catches. 157 00:13:33,960 --> 00:13:36,235 The sea seemed inexhaustible. 158 00:13:56,520 --> 00:13:58,875 But as more people came to settle on the coast, 159 00:13:58,960 --> 00:14:00,473 as villages grew into towns, 160 00:14:00,560 --> 00:14:03,791 in order to accommodate the increasing flood of summer visitors, 161 00:14:03,880 --> 00:14:06,474 so the demand for fish grew greater 162 00:14:06,560 --> 00:14:09,074 and the number of fishing boats increased. 163 00:14:09,160 --> 00:14:12,869 Gradually, the catches from the inshore waters got smaller. 164 00:14:12,960 --> 00:14:15,315 They were being badly over... fished. 165 00:14:16,640 --> 00:14:21,589 So, bigger boats that could go farther out and find fresh grounds 166 00:14:21,680 --> 00:14:23,830 were introduced... boats like these. 167 00:14:23,920 --> 00:14:28,710 It's a trawler, which fishes by scraping the bottom of the sea with this board, 168 00:14:28,800 --> 00:14:30,199 and they're very efficient. 169 00:14:30,280 --> 00:14:33,716 And for many years, the catches were good. 170 00:14:33,800 --> 00:14:36,155 But then, again, they began to fail. 171 00:14:36,240 --> 00:14:38,913 These new grounds were being over... fished. 172 00:14:39,000 --> 00:14:42,151 So, then, they introduced even bigger boats... 173 00:14:42,240 --> 00:14:44,231 boats like these. 174 00:14:44,320 --> 00:14:48,552 These boats can stay out at sea for weeks on end. 175 00:14:48,640 --> 00:14:53,031 But they are so expensive to run they're not interested in the less valuable fish. 176 00:14:53,120 --> 00:14:56,590 Those are just thrown back into the sea, dead, 177 00:14:56,680 --> 00:14:59,148 and they can be as much as 70% of the catch, 178 00:14:59,240 --> 00:15:02,676 so boats like these are devastating indeed. 179 00:15:03,320 --> 00:15:06,357 But the solution of getting bigger and bigger boats 180 00:15:06,440 --> 00:15:08,476 to go farther and farther out to sea 181 00:15:08,560 --> 00:15:12,189 can't work for long in a sea as small as the Mediterranean. 182 00:15:12,280 --> 00:15:15,750 And these ships, in this harbour in west Sicily, 183 00:15:15,840 --> 00:15:20,277 are now sailing so far south, they're getting into Tunisian waters. 184 00:15:20,360 --> 00:15:24,148 100 or so of them are arrested every year, 185 00:15:24,240 --> 00:15:26,834 so there's a very big problem. 186 00:15:28,600 --> 00:15:30,875 And this... is another. 187 00:15:38,800 --> 00:15:40,631 The opening of the Suez Canal 188 00:15:40,720 --> 00:15:44,474 turned a sea that, in terms of world trade, had been, for 400 years, 189 00:15:44,560 --> 00:15:47,916 no more than a blind alley leading off the Atlantic 0cean 190 00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:50,275 into a major international highway. 191 00:15:50,760 --> 00:15:53,035 Then oil was discovered in the Middle East 192 00:15:53,120 --> 00:15:56,271 and a major new element was added to the traffic. 193 00:15:56,360 --> 00:16:01,718 Today, a procession of gigantic tankers like this one, over 1,000 feet long, 194 00:16:01,800 --> 00:16:04,473 ferry oil from the eastern end of the Mediterranean 195 00:16:04,560 --> 00:16:07,120 to the industrial centres of western Europe. 196 00:16:07,680 --> 00:16:11,832 An accident to one of these could devastate the seas for miles around 197 00:16:11,920 --> 00:16:14,559 and accidents happen every year. 198 00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:25,834 In 1979, one of these huge tankers collided with a freighter 199 00:16:25,920 --> 00:16:28,480 at the mouth of the Bosphorus, close to Istanbul. 200 00:16:29,160 --> 00:16:32,550 Its cargo of oil, leaking onto the sea, caught fire. 201 00:16:32,640 --> 00:16:35,996 Flames leapt from the water 300 feet into the air. 202 00:16:36,080 --> 00:16:39,277 For over a month, the cargo continued to burn. 203 00:16:39,360 --> 00:16:41,078 Eventually, it was put out, 204 00:16:41,160 --> 00:16:44,789 but oil, even now, is still seeping from the wreck. 205 00:16:44,880 --> 00:16:46,791 By the beginning of the 1970s, 206 00:16:46,880 --> 00:16:51,237 800,000 tonnes of oil were being spilled into the sea every year, 207 00:16:51,320 --> 00:16:53,993 either accidentally from collisions or wrecks 208 00:16:54,080 --> 00:16:57,470 or deliberately by tankers washing out their tanks at sea, 209 00:16:57,560 --> 00:17:02,350 and all round the Mediterranean, the rocks were being coated with black, sticky tar. 210 00:17:08,960 --> 00:17:10,916 This is not oil. 211 00:17:11,000 --> 00:17:13,036 This is untreated sewage, 212 00:17:13,120 --> 00:17:17,272 floating in the water just off the French city of Toulon, 213 00:17:17,360 --> 00:17:22,229 25 miles or so from some of the most fashionable and expensive holiday beaches 214 00:17:22,320 --> 00:17:24,072 in the world. 215 00:17:42,520 --> 00:17:46,035 Most living organisms are poisoned by such filth. 216 00:17:46,120 --> 00:17:48,111 0nly few can survive. 217 00:17:48,200 --> 00:17:49,679 Among them, mussels. 218 00:17:49,760 --> 00:17:52,433 They feed on particles, which they filter from the water. 219 00:17:52,520 --> 00:17:57,435 But they also absorb bacteria that can cause virulent diseases in human beings. 220 00:17:59,520 --> 00:18:04,150 Elsewhere, on the bare rocks, where no plants or other encrusting organisms grow, 221 00:18:04,240 --> 00:18:06,196 are other scavengers. 222 00:18:07,480 --> 00:18:09,277 Black sea urchins. 223 00:18:09,360 --> 00:18:12,716 They too are eaten. But if they're gathered from such a place as this, 224 00:18:12,800 --> 00:18:14,552 they will poison you. 225 00:18:18,160 --> 00:18:21,596 A third scavenger typical of these polluted areas 226 00:18:21,680 --> 00:18:23,671 is perhaps fortunately not edible... 227 00:18:23,760 --> 00:18:25,478 the black brittle star. 228 00:18:25,560 --> 00:18:27,437 In the filthier parts of this sea, 229 00:18:27,520 --> 00:18:30,990 it's almost the only large organism that survives in any numbers. 230 00:18:31,080 --> 00:18:34,789 And with no competitors, it swarms over the sea floor. 231 00:18:43,280 --> 00:18:46,158 Healthy coastal waters can look like this. 232 00:18:46,240 --> 00:18:50,233 A rich meadow of sea grass, posidonia, thronged with fish. 233 00:18:59,160 --> 00:19:02,311 The thickets are even richer than they seem at first sight. 234 00:19:02,400 --> 00:19:03,833 For these are the nursery grounds 235 00:19:03,920 --> 00:19:07,549 where the young of many Mediterranean fish can hide from predators 236 00:19:07,640 --> 00:19:10,313 and find the tiny microorganisms on which they feed. 237 00:19:12,760 --> 00:19:15,513 Some species of fish, like this scorpion fish, 238 00:19:15,600 --> 00:19:18,273 which is camouflaged to match the sea... grass roots, 239 00:19:18,360 --> 00:19:20,316 live almost nowhere else. 240 00:19:21,040 --> 00:19:24,237 Scallops lie, with shell agape, filter feeding. 241 00:19:25,480 --> 00:19:27,789 Sea urchins nibble algae. 242 00:19:29,160 --> 00:19:33,438 The biggest shell to be found in European waters, the pinna, also lives here 243 00:19:33,520 --> 00:19:35,158 and indeed nowhere else. 244 00:19:39,960 --> 00:19:43,111 Grey mullet prospect and rummage among the vegetable debris, 245 00:19:43,200 --> 00:19:45,031 looking for edible particles. 246 00:19:45,120 --> 00:19:47,793 And there's a great deal here that's good to eat. 247 00:20:04,600 --> 00:20:06,477 And there are seahorses. 248 00:20:06,560 --> 00:20:11,395 They, too, depend on an abundant and healthy concentration of microorganisms 249 00:20:11,480 --> 00:20:14,233 such as are generated around the sea... grass thickets, 250 00:20:14,320 --> 00:20:17,118 which they take in through their pipe... like mouths. 251 00:20:21,040 --> 00:20:25,238 It's only a few inches long, a pipefish that has elected to swim upright, 252 00:20:25,320 --> 00:20:28,630 so freeing its tail to be hooked onto twigs of coral 253 00:20:28,720 --> 00:20:30,790 or twined around posidonia leaves 254 00:20:30,880 --> 00:20:35,635 so that the seahorse can maintain its position in the swirling currents of the coastal waters. 255 00:20:40,680 --> 00:20:43,877 The whole meadow is a single, complicated community 256 00:20:43,960 --> 00:20:47,873 of a multitude of species, all dependent on the posidonia. 257 00:20:55,640 --> 00:20:59,792 But all round the sea, stretches of posidonia are dying. 258 00:20:59,880 --> 00:21:02,440 Sewage is only part of the problem. 259 00:21:09,880 --> 00:21:13,316 Sediment, too, can be a killer. 260 00:21:13,400 --> 00:21:16,233 This was once all green weed. 261 00:21:16,800 --> 00:21:20,475 But sediment coming down and settling upon it 262 00:21:21,240 --> 00:21:25,756 is slowly killing it with this blanket of filth... 263 00:21:27,840 --> 00:21:32,277 so that, on it... grows algae. 264 00:21:33,680 --> 00:21:35,591 And everything... 265 00:21:36,960 --> 00:21:38,712 disappears. 266 00:21:45,560 --> 00:21:50,554 By the early 1970s, it was clear that the Mediterranean was dying. 267 00:21:50,640 --> 00:21:52,631 Something had to be done. 268 00:21:54,920 --> 00:21:57,070 The United Nations called a conference 269 00:21:57,160 --> 00:22:00,470 to which all states with a Mediterranean coastline were invited. 270 00:22:00,920 --> 00:22:03,195 They declared that they would take action. 271 00:22:03,280 --> 00:22:08,035 Ten years later, in 1985, they reassembled in Genoa. 272 00:22:12,760 --> 00:22:16,070 Here, in one room, brought together by the crisis, 273 00:22:16,160 --> 00:22:19,994 were gathered capitalists and communists, Muslims and Christians, 274 00:22:20,080 --> 00:22:21,672 rich and poor. 275 00:22:21,760 --> 00:22:25,309 Conferences can, of course, be nothing more than talking shops. 276 00:22:25,400 --> 00:22:29,154 What, in practical terms, has this one actually done? 277 00:22:30,760 --> 00:22:36,232 Well, it's established over 200 research stations right round the Mediterranean, 278 00:22:36,320 --> 00:22:40,677 which are finding out exactly what the pollution is, where it comes from, 279 00:22:40,760 --> 00:22:43,558 how it circulates in the sea and how to measure it, 280 00:22:43,640 --> 00:22:44,755 all of which you have to do 281 00:22:44,840 --> 00:22:48,719 if you're going to establish international laws and agreements to control it. 282 00:22:49,280 --> 00:22:54,798 Secondly, it has totally outlawed the dumping of oil or any other waste at sea, 283 00:22:54,880 --> 00:22:58,873 and thirdly, it has created procedures to deal with a big emergency, 284 00:22:58,960 --> 00:23:01,076 such as a wrecked oil tanker. 285 00:23:01,160 --> 00:23:03,355 But there's a lot more that's got to be done yet 286 00:23:03,440 --> 00:23:06,193 if we're going to control pollution in the Mediterranean. 287 00:23:10,120 --> 00:23:13,669 And what about the lands around this polluted sea? 288 00:23:13,760 --> 00:23:16,433 They have been maltreated by man for much longer. 289 00:23:16,520 --> 00:23:19,990 The Greeks and the Romans began the process 3,000 years ago. 290 00:23:20,080 --> 00:23:24,232 They built great cities in North Africa from wealth produced by the soil, 291 00:23:24,320 --> 00:23:28,279 but in seeking more and more, they cut down more and more of the forests. 292 00:23:28,360 --> 00:23:31,352 The cities fell to ruin, the aqueducts dried 293 00:23:31,440 --> 00:23:33,317 and the rich farming land was wrecked. 294 00:23:33,800 --> 00:23:38,794 Today, it can only provide meals of thorns to a few sheep and goats. 295 00:23:42,640 --> 00:23:44,596 (Bleating) 296 00:23:49,240 --> 00:23:53,791 The waters of the Nile enabled Egypt to escape these misfortunes. 297 00:23:53,880 --> 00:23:56,075 But now even it is imperilled. 298 00:23:57,800 --> 00:24:02,715 This beautiful temple of Philae once stood on an island lower down the Nile 299 00:24:02,800 --> 00:24:04,950 and was brought here, farther upstream, 300 00:24:05,040 --> 00:24:09,033 and meticulously reconstructed only a few years ago. 301 00:24:09,120 --> 00:24:12,112 And if it hadn't have been, it would have been submerged. 302 00:24:12,200 --> 00:24:16,432 Because, during this century, engineers have built two great dams across the Nile, 303 00:24:16,520 --> 00:24:19,557 one just below stream and one five miles upstream, 304 00:24:19,640 --> 00:24:22,029 which have greatly raised the level of the water. 305 00:24:22,120 --> 00:24:27,114 Indeed, the dam upstream has flooded the valley for 300 miles 306 00:24:27,200 --> 00:24:32,593 and 100,000 people who lived there have had to abandon their fields and their homes 307 00:24:32,680 --> 00:24:34,989 and be resettled elsewhere. 308 00:24:36,120 --> 00:24:39,396 The benefits brought by the high dam have been colossal. 309 00:24:39,480 --> 00:24:43,393 Its turbines provide about half of Egypt's electrical power 310 00:24:43,480 --> 00:24:45,391 and it does control the extent of the floods, 311 00:24:45,480 --> 00:24:48,233 which in the past, in some years, were catastrophic. 312 00:24:49,760 --> 00:24:53,435 But it's not added to the size or the fertility of the cultivated lands 313 00:24:53,520 --> 00:24:56,637 that lie lower down the valley, in the way its builders promised. 314 00:24:58,920 --> 00:25:01,832 As the waters of the Nile flow into the lake, 315 00:25:01,920 --> 00:25:04,514 they drop the sediments which fall onto the lake floor. 316 00:25:05,040 --> 00:25:08,191 And as they lie in the sun spread over a vast area, 317 00:25:08,280 --> 00:25:10,510 they evaporate very quickly. 318 00:25:11,080 --> 00:25:14,709 So when the Nile flows out through the turbines of the dam, 319 00:25:14,800 --> 00:25:17,553 it has lost nearly a third of its water 320 00:25:17,640 --> 00:25:19,551 and nearly all of its silt. 321 00:25:22,040 --> 00:25:26,352 Downstream, in lands that were cultivated in the times of the pharaohs, 322 00:25:26,440 --> 00:25:29,159 there is now less water to irrigate the land. 323 00:25:29,240 --> 00:25:32,755 And the soil is no longer as well fertilised as it was. 324 00:25:39,640 --> 00:25:43,110 So artificial fertiliser has now to be used. 325 00:25:43,200 --> 00:25:45,634 Manufacturing it requires electricity 326 00:25:45,720 --> 00:25:50,191 and that uses a significant part of the power the dam was built to provide. 327 00:25:51,120 --> 00:25:53,998 The seaward edge of the delta before the dam was built 328 00:25:54,080 --> 00:25:58,596 used to advance every year as the annual deposit of silt was added to it. 329 00:25:58,680 --> 00:26:03,879 That growth has now stopped and in places the delta is actually being eroded away. 330 00:26:09,240 --> 00:26:11,470 Nor is that the end of the cost. 331 00:26:11,560 --> 00:26:14,950 Since the Nile carries so much less sediment into the Mediterranean, 332 00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:17,474 there is much less there for the fish to feed upon. 333 00:26:17,560 --> 00:26:21,269 In consequence, Egypt has lost its sardine fishery 334 00:26:21,360 --> 00:26:26,036 and the country gets less than half the tonnage of fish from the sea 335 00:26:26,120 --> 00:26:28,759 than it did before the dam was built. 336 00:26:34,720 --> 00:26:38,076 Chemical fertilisers are now being used all round the Mediterranean 337 00:26:38,160 --> 00:26:40,196 to increase the productivity of the land, 338 00:26:40,280 --> 00:26:43,033 together with pesticides and insecticides. 339 00:26:43,120 --> 00:26:46,237 But those poisons are very stable chemically. 340 00:26:46,320 --> 00:26:49,232 They accumulate in the bodies of birds that feed on the insects 341 00:26:49,320 --> 00:26:51,311 and eventually poison them. 342 00:26:52,880 --> 00:26:56,509 The total cost of their use is even now not fully apparent. 343 00:26:57,440 --> 00:27:03,310 Almost certainly, it will include the death and total extinction of these birds. 344 00:27:16,960 --> 00:27:19,155 They are bald ibis. 345 00:27:26,880 --> 00:27:30,156 0nce, they lived on cliffs in Germany and Austria, 346 00:27:30,240 --> 00:27:32,037 Syria and Algeria. 347 00:27:32,120 --> 00:27:34,953 Now, there are only two colonies of them left. 348 00:27:35,040 --> 00:27:38,999 A pathetic group of eight nesting outside a small village in Turkey 349 00:27:39,080 --> 00:27:43,676 and this slightly larger colony on remote sea cliffs in Morocco. 350 00:27:49,920 --> 00:27:54,072 0ther birds... the sacred ibis, the imperial eagle, the black vulture... 351 00:27:54,160 --> 00:27:57,277 are being driven from the Mediterranean by man's activities, 352 00:27:57,360 --> 00:28:01,672 but these species still survive in wild parts of Africa and central Europe. 353 00:28:02,480 --> 00:28:06,758 But this bird seems only to thrive in the warm, dry climate of the Mediterranean. 354 00:28:07,280 --> 00:28:09,032 It has nowhere else to go. 355 00:28:09,120 --> 00:28:11,873 If it dies here, it's gone forever. 356 00:28:23,320 --> 00:28:28,678 The creation of fertility does not necessarily depend on the use of artificial fertilisers. 357 00:28:29,560 --> 00:28:34,315 Land like this, that bakes beneath a cloudless sky throughout the year, 358 00:28:34,400 --> 00:28:36,516 may seem irredeemable, 359 00:28:36,600 --> 00:28:39,160 but even this can be brought to life. 360 00:28:41,200 --> 00:28:42,838 Down by the Dead Sea, 361 00:28:42,920 --> 00:28:44,956 in the Biblical wilderness of Sodom, 362 00:28:45,040 --> 00:28:47,952 the Israelis have had spectacular success. 363 00:29:01,000 --> 00:29:06,120 This kibbutz has been a leader in finding ways to make the desert bloom. 364 00:29:06,200 --> 00:29:10,512 By irrigating in the right way, by selecting the right kind of plants, 365 00:29:10,600 --> 00:29:15,116 they produce a succession of rich crops through the year. 366 00:29:15,200 --> 00:29:18,556 This is a pomelo, a kind of giant grapefruit. 367 00:29:20,760 --> 00:29:24,275 Beside that plot stands a group of date palms. 368 00:29:30,160 --> 00:29:32,674 Their huge long bunches of fruit, 369 00:29:32,760 --> 00:29:37,788 bagged with black plastic netting to catch it if it falls and protect it from birds, 370 00:29:37,880 --> 00:29:40,997 are now being gathered and will fetch excellent prices. 371 00:29:42,320 --> 00:29:45,835 Young mango trees properly tended also do well 372 00:29:45,920 --> 00:29:50,391 and will add to the variety of fruit that now comes from a land that was once considered 373 00:29:50,480 --> 00:29:55,110 the most barren and inhospitable desert anywhere around the Mediterranean. 374 00:29:59,840 --> 00:30:02,912 Mediterranean man has always hunted for meat, 375 00:30:03,000 --> 00:30:06,037 and the forests around the shores were originally extremely rich 376 00:30:06,120 --> 00:30:08,190 in game of one sort or another. 377 00:30:10,920 --> 00:30:12,672 The Romans were great hunters, 378 00:30:12,760 --> 00:30:17,117 as much for the excitement of the chase as for, one suspects, the meat it produced. 379 00:30:20,040 --> 00:30:22,998 That tradition continued right through the Middle Ages. 380 00:30:23,080 --> 00:30:27,198 Hunting was a masculine attribute, a reflection of a man's virility. 381 00:30:29,880 --> 00:30:31,836 And that attitude persists, 382 00:30:31,920 --> 00:30:35,310 even though the targets now are rarely eaten. 383 00:30:40,560 --> 00:30:42,516 (Speaking Italian) 384 00:30:45,080 --> 00:30:49,870 Every year, honey buzzards migrate north across the Mediterranean to Sicily, 385 00:30:49,960 --> 00:30:53,077 and as they arrive, guns await them. 386 00:30:58,000 --> 00:31:00,958 The hills along the coast are lined with bunkers, 387 00:31:01,040 --> 00:31:03,759 built on sites that have been the jealously guarded possessions 388 00:31:03,840 --> 00:31:06,229 of particular families for centuries. 389 00:31:15,640 --> 00:31:17,631 There is little attempt to conceal them. 390 00:31:17,720 --> 00:31:19,551 The birds have to come this way. 391 00:31:19,640 --> 00:31:21,949 It's the shortest route across the Mediterranean 392 00:31:22,040 --> 00:31:24,190 and there are so many shooting platforms 393 00:31:24,280 --> 00:31:27,511 that avoiding one simply puts them within the range of another. 394 00:31:42,880 --> 00:31:44,632 Another honey buzzard. 395 00:32:14,720 --> 00:32:16,836 A dead honey buzzard. 396 00:32:19,680 --> 00:32:21,477 This hunt is illegal. 397 00:32:21,560 --> 00:32:25,872 People concerned for the welfare of the birds come up to the hills to monitor their numbers 398 00:32:25,960 --> 00:32:27,279 and to check their progress. 399 00:32:28,280 --> 00:32:31,556 The forestry authorities responsible for the upholding of the law 400 00:32:31,640 --> 00:32:33,870 do their best to stop the shoot 401 00:32:33,960 --> 00:32:36,997 but this slogan says "Long live the hunt" 402 00:32:37,080 --> 00:32:39,150 and while local report remains so strong, 403 00:32:39,240 --> 00:32:42,869 it's nearly impossible to suppress this longstanding tradition. 404 00:32:47,600 --> 00:32:50,353 Mechanical lures attract songbirds. 405 00:33:01,480 --> 00:33:05,519 A few hunters maintain that these tiny corpses make a tasty pate, 406 00:33:06,160 --> 00:33:10,438 but the impulse to kill seems a more likely explanation for their actions. 407 00:33:10,520 --> 00:33:14,672 The slaughter is at its most intense not in the poorer countries of the Mediterranean 408 00:33:14,760 --> 00:33:19,390 but in the rich southwest... Spain, France and, worst of all, Italy. 409 00:33:19,480 --> 00:33:25,589 Each year, several hundred million wild birds die at the hand and the whim of man. 410 00:33:28,920 --> 00:33:31,593 The forests themselves are now endangered. 411 00:33:31,680 --> 00:33:33,830 Fires rage through the summer. 412 00:33:33,920 --> 00:33:36,115 Some are doubtless started by accident... 413 00:33:36,200 --> 00:33:38,760 a cigarette end, a campfire that got out of control. 414 00:33:39,360 --> 00:33:43,353 But the authorities say that as much as 80% are started deliberately 415 00:33:43,440 --> 00:33:46,557 by those who want a legally protected forest destroyed 416 00:33:46,640 --> 00:33:49,074 so the land can be used for profitable development. 417 00:33:49,160 --> 00:33:53,676 Even by people who just take pleasure in seeing trees burn. 418 00:34:00,280 --> 00:34:05,957 Putting them out requires all the ingenuity and technical muscle that man can muster. 419 00:34:06,040 --> 00:34:07,996 And even then, it may not be enough. 420 00:34:13,920 --> 00:34:18,232 Seaplanes scoop up seawater 1,000 gallons at a time. 421 00:34:46,880 --> 00:34:50,793 Some add special fire... extinguishing chemicals to their load. 422 00:34:56,000 --> 00:34:59,276 In 1986, in the south of France alone, 423 00:34:59,360 --> 00:35:04,559 170 square miles of land were devastated by these fires. 424 00:35:10,960 --> 00:35:15,795 We burn the land, we strip it of its forests, we poison it, 425 00:35:15,880 --> 00:35:17,836 we also drain it. 426 00:35:22,400 --> 00:35:24,914 Wetlands and marshes around the sea 427 00:35:25,000 --> 00:35:29,312 have been the one place where you could rely on finding an abundance of wildlife. 428 00:35:30,040 --> 00:35:34,477 They survived that way because people thought they were not worth the cost of reclamation. 429 00:35:34,560 --> 00:35:36,710 That is no longer the case. 430 00:35:36,800 --> 00:35:40,509 Modern machinery now makes drainage much easier and cheaper 431 00:35:40,600 --> 00:35:42,750 and the wetlands are disappearing fast. 432 00:35:44,320 --> 00:35:46,914 Some of the drained land is used for agriculture, 433 00:35:47,000 --> 00:35:50,709 although the extra crops may not be needed and may even be left to rot. 434 00:35:51,720 --> 00:35:55,315 0ther stretches along the coast are being turned into holiday complexes 435 00:35:55,400 --> 00:35:57,391 to cater for the huge number of us 436 00:35:57,480 --> 00:36:01,359 who now make the annual migration south to the sea and the sun. 437 00:36:01,440 --> 00:36:04,876 Today, hotels stand beside almost every beach 438 00:36:04,960 --> 00:36:09,272 and an almost continuous line of buildings runs for 200 miles 439 00:36:09,360 --> 00:36:12,193 along the coast of southern France and Italy. 440 00:36:12,280 --> 00:36:15,238 No marshland, no quiet reed bed 441 00:36:15,320 --> 00:36:18,392 can any longer be considered safe from development. 442 00:36:38,200 --> 00:36:45,436 At the last detailed census in 1973, 60 million people visited the Mediterranean shores 443 00:36:45,520 --> 00:36:48,159 during the short few months of the holiday season. 444 00:37:04,080 --> 00:37:06,275 The figures now are astronomic, 445 00:37:06,360 --> 00:37:08,749 for every year more and more come 446 00:37:08,840 --> 00:37:11,832 and more and more facilities are built to accommodate them. 447 00:37:14,640 --> 00:37:16,870 Foundations for yet another jetty, 448 00:37:16,960 --> 00:37:18,757 yet another marina. 449 00:37:20,640 --> 00:37:24,553 Sun, it seems, is the prime reason most of us have for coming here, 450 00:37:24,640 --> 00:37:27,552 yet this is a recently acquired enthusiasm. 451 00:37:27,640 --> 00:37:31,030 0nly a century ago, the wealthy ladies who strolled here 452 00:37:31,120 --> 00:37:33,714 prided themselves on their milk... white complexions 453 00:37:33,800 --> 00:37:36,030 and wore clothes of elaborate awkwardness 454 00:37:36,120 --> 00:37:39,874 to make it clear that they were totally unacquainted with the outdoor life. 455 00:37:40,440 --> 00:37:42,510 Today, just the same kind of people 456 00:37:42,600 --> 00:37:45,353 strive to get a skin colour that gives the impression 457 00:37:45,440 --> 00:37:48,000 that their entire lives are spent out of doors, 458 00:37:48,080 --> 00:37:50,913 even though the process of getting it is often painful, 459 00:37:51,000 --> 00:37:53,309 certainly runs the risk of skin cancer, 460 00:37:53,400 --> 00:37:56,597 and even when successful, only lasts for a week or two. 461 00:38:00,880 --> 00:38:02,199 Amidst all this, 462 00:38:02,280 --> 00:38:05,238 wildlife strives to maintain a place. 463 00:38:07,400 --> 00:38:08,753 A loggerhead turtle, 464 00:38:08,840 --> 00:38:13,118 looking for a nesting site off the beach in one of the Greek islands. 465 00:38:17,800 --> 00:38:19,756 (Speedboat approaching) 466 00:38:46,440 --> 00:38:49,591 Loggerheads come up to lay under the cover of darkness 467 00:38:49,680 --> 00:38:53,514 and a few will brave the flashing lights and the near continuous noise 468 00:38:53,600 --> 00:38:55,318 to dig their nests. 469 00:38:55,400 --> 00:38:57,356 (Pop music and people partying) 470 00:39:29,120 --> 00:39:31,270 The turtles' needs are no secret. 471 00:39:31,360 --> 00:39:33,999 The beaches that were once theirs are well known 472 00:39:34,080 --> 00:39:36,833 and this is the most important of those they still use. 473 00:39:37,720 --> 00:39:42,396 A notice asks visitors to keep away and give the turtles the privacy they need. 474 00:39:43,680 --> 00:39:45,398 It's used for target practice. 475 00:39:46,520 --> 00:39:49,637 Many of the turtles that are brave enough to climb up the beach 476 00:39:49,720 --> 00:39:54,748 turn around, repelled by the noise, and go back to the sea with their eggs unlaid. 477 00:39:57,200 --> 00:39:58,872 In just a few places, 478 00:39:58,960 --> 00:40:03,158 the rich wild world of the Mediterranean does still survive. 479 00:40:03,240 --> 00:40:05,674 The northern coast of Majorca has no beaches 480 00:40:05,760 --> 00:40:08,991 and remains quiet even during the hubbub of the holiday season 481 00:40:09,080 --> 00:40:13,039 and a few pairs of black vultures can still nest there. 482 00:40:16,880 --> 00:40:18,996 It's one of the biggest of all vultures, 483 00:40:19,080 --> 00:40:20,991 with a wingspan of over seven feet. 484 00:40:21,760 --> 00:40:23,990 It once lived in many parts of Europe 485 00:40:24,080 --> 00:40:27,197 but it feeds on carrion, and, apart from anything else, 486 00:40:27,280 --> 00:40:29,396 the improvement of farming practices 487 00:40:29,480 --> 00:40:32,552 has deprived it of food over much of its former range. 488 00:40:32,640 --> 00:40:36,235 Now, only a few hundred pairs are left in all western Europe. 489 00:40:40,520 --> 00:40:43,990 The shallow lakes and lagoons that were once common around the coast 490 00:40:44,080 --> 00:40:45,832 have now largely gone. 491 00:40:45,920 --> 00:40:50,357 But drive west, from Bizerte airport in Tunisia, just before dawn in winter 492 00:40:50,440 --> 00:40:53,079 and you will find half a million birds. 493 00:40:53,160 --> 00:40:55,116 (Squawking) 494 00:41:02,200 --> 00:41:05,715 They have assembled on a rare stretch of water, Lake Ishkul, 495 00:41:05,800 --> 00:41:08,268 and are busy feeding in the first light. 496 00:41:20,520 --> 00:41:22,476 (Squawking) 497 00:41:27,840 --> 00:41:32,630 Virtually the entire European population of wild greylag geese 498 00:41:32,720 --> 00:41:34,392 come down here to feed. 499 00:41:52,720 --> 00:41:54,836 In the shallower parts, there are waders... 500 00:41:54,920 --> 00:41:58,276 avocets and redshanks and many other species. 501 00:42:23,360 --> 00:42:25,157 For many of the geese and ducks, 502 00:42:25,240 --> 00:42:27,515 this is a vital wintering ground. 503 00:42:27,600 --> 00:42:30,160 For the waders, an essential staging post 504 00:42:30,240 --> 00:42:33,949 on their long migration route between southern Africa and Europe. 505 00:42:37,520 --> 00:42:41,115 But others want the precious waters of Lake Ishkul. 506 00:42:41,200 --> 00:42:44,670 Local people would like to build dams across the rivers that feed it 507 00:42:44,760 --> 00:42:47,433 and use the water to irrigate their farms 508 00:42:47,520 --> 00:42:49,715 and to supply the hotels that are now being built 509 00:42:49,800 --> 00:42:53,759 in order that Tunisia should get its share of the tourist bonanza. 510 00:43:03,720 --> 00:43:05,950 But if the lake is starved of water, 511 00:43:06,040 --> 00:43:08,190 then these birds can no longer feed 512 00:43:08,280 --> 00:43:11,795 and no one knows how or if they will survive. 513 00:43:22,440 --> 00:43:26,069 This is one of the last patches of truly natural forest 514 00:43:26,160 --> 00:43:28,116 to be found around the sea. 515 00:43:28,880 --> 00:43:32,839 The southern shores in North Africa were deforested by the Romans, 516 00:43:32,920 --> 00:43:34,956 the northern shores by later people 517 00:43:35,040 --> 00:43:37,429 who wanted more farmland and more timber. 518 00:43:38,880 --> 00:43:42,919 This area, around the Plitvice Lakes in Yugoslavia in the east 519 00:43:43,000 --> 00:43:45,309 has therefore become specially precious. 520 00:43:47,040 --> 00:43:50,271 It has spruce and fir growing alongside beaches 521 00:43:50,360 --> 00:43:53,079 and among the trees wander most of the big animals 522 00:43:53,160 --> 00:43:56,835 with which man shared the forest during prehistory. 523 00:44:14,680 --> 00:44:19,196 The rivers flow over limestone and dissolve it away to form deep caverns. 524 00:44:20,280 --> 00:44:24,558 Then, lower down their course, they deposit the lime again as travertine, 525 00:44:24,640 --> 00:44:29,509 which dams the streams and forms a series of spectacular waterfalls and lakes. 526 00:44:38,240 --> 00:44:43,109 Elsewhere in Europe, otters are under threat because, of course, they catch fish 527 00:44:43,200 --> 00:44:45,316 and men want to do that. 528 00:44:45,400 --> 00:44:48,153 But here, they are allowed to take their share. 529 00:45:06,720 --> 00:45:11,032 The deltas of Mediterranean rivers were once tangled wildernesses. 530 00:45:11,120 --> 00:45:13,793 Around the mouth of the River Nestos in Greece, 531 00:45:13,880 --> 00:45:16,678 you can see what they were originally like. 532 00:45:16,760 --> 00:45:20,878 It's a place of great fascination, for it was in such swampy woodlands as this 533 00:45:20,960 --> 00:45:23,713 that men first found the wild grapevine, 534 00:45:23,800 --> 00:45:25,597 and it grows here still. 535 00:45:25,680 --> 00:45:28,513 It's also a place of great beauty. 536 00:45:28,600 --> 00:45:30,909 (Birds twittering) 537 00:45:37,800 --> 00:45:39,791 Damselflies mating. 538 00:45:39,880 --> 00:45:42,952 The male has seized the female's head with the tip of his tail 539 00:45:43,040 --> 00:45:44,553 and fertilised her. 540 00:45:44,640 --> 00:45:46,471 Now, while he still clings to her, 541 00:45:46,560 --> 00:45:48,994 she will deposit her eggs into the water. 542 00:45:51,240 --> 00:45:55,074 A striped grass snake, hunting for tadpoles and frogs. 543 00:46:11,520 --> 00:46:14,671 In these warm waters, terrapins flourish. 544 00:46:15,000 --> 00:46:19,915 0nly two species... the pond terrapin and the stripe... necked... occur in Europe 545 00:46:20,000 --> 00:46:22,195 and they both live here. 546 00:46:53,760 --> 00:46:56,911 Islands in the Mediterranean are popular places. 547 00:46:57,000 --> 00:46:58,831 But a few are so difficult to reach 548 00:46:58,920 --> 00:47:01,798 that they have remained virtually uninfluenced by man. 549 00:47:02,360 --> 00:47:05,511 The Sporades stretch eastwards from the Greek mainland 550 00:47:05,600 --> 00:47:08,068 and this is one of the most remote of them. 551 00:47:08,160 --> 00:47:12,631 There's no safe anchorage here and severe storms can blow up with little warning. 552 00:47:12,720 --> 00:47:16,076 There was once a small monastery, but that has now been abandoned 553 00:47:16,160 --> 00:47:19,232 and the birds have the place almost to themselves. 554 00:47:19,320 --> 00:47:22,073 Two of them are Mediterranean specialities. 555 00:47:24,120 --> 00:47:27,749 Audouin's gull, the Mediterranean's unique version of the herring gull, 556 00:47:27,840 --> 00:47:29,558 so common farther north. 557 00:47:29,640 --> 00:47:31,517 It differs from it mainly in coloration, 558 00:47:31,600 --> 00:47:35,912 having greenish legs and a scarlet beak tipped with black and yellow. 559 00:47:43,720 --> 00:47:47,030 Eleonora's falcon is the other of the island's unique birds. 560 00:47:51,320 --> 00:47:55,757 Eleonora was a princess who ruled in Sardinia, where this falcon also lives, 561 00:47:55,840 --> 00:47:57,478 during the 14th century, 562 00:47:57,560 --> 00:48:02,236 and she passed the law protecting falcons from human interference during the breeding season. 563 00:48:02,320 --> 00:48:06,313 A law, it must be said, that was made largely for the benefit of falconers, 564 00:48:06,400 --> 00:48:09,358 rather than a concern for conservation in general. 565 00:48:09,440 --> 00:48:13,353 This bird was named in her honour when it was first recognised by science 566 00:48:13,440 --> 00:48:15,192 during the 19th century. 567 00:48:19,480 --> 00:48:23,758 It winters down in Madagascar but it comes up to the Mediterranean to breed. 568 00:48:23,840 --> 00:48:26,308 For most of the year, it feeds on insects 569 00:48:26,400 --> 00:48:29,039 but now it has extra mouths to feed. 570 00:48:29,120 --> 00:48:33,079 Its nests are strategically placed on migration routes across the sea 571 00:48:33,160 --> 00:48:36,436 and it catches warblers and other small birds for its chicks. 572 00:48:44,480 --> 00:48:49,600 But the island's rarest inhabitant lives in the clear seas around its coast. 573 00:48:58,920 --> 00:49:00,672 The monk seal. 574 00:49:10,960 --> 00:49:13,428 Fishermen have always regarded it as their enemy. 575 00:49:14,080 --> 00:49:17,914 It took their fish... worse, it sometimes got entangled in their nets 576 00:49:18,000 --> 00:49:20,036 and caused expensive damage. 577 00:49:20,120 --> 00:49:23,032 Anyway, its soft skin fetched good prices 578 00:49:23,120 --> 00:49:25,554 so they killed it whenever they got the chance. 579 00:49:26,120 --> 00:49:29,795 Today, there are probably less than 350 left, 580 00:49:29,880 --> 00:49:32,110 but even now, it is still hunted. 581 00:49:37,840 --> 00:49:39,910 The cliffs of the island are of limestone 582 00:49:40,000 --> 00:49:43,515 and the pounding waves have tunnelled a few caves deep into them, 583 00:49:43,600 --> 00:49:45,352 close to the waterline. 584 00:50:09,240 --> 00:50:12,835 And this is one of the last places 585 00:50:12,920 --> 00:50:17,675 where this rarest of the Mediterranean mammals can find safety. 586 00:50:18,880 --> 00:50:23,112 Many seal species can go to sea for months on end 587 00:50:23,200 --> 00:50:26,749 but this animal is very much a coastal animal 588 00:50:26,840 --> 00:50:31,516 and it needs to have quiet beaches where it can haul itself up for rest. 589 00:50:31,600 --> 00:50:35,479 But more than that, it needs to have gently shelving beaches 590 00:50:35,560 --> 00:50:38,028 where it can have its pups. 591 00:50:39,440 --> 00:50:43,274 This little creature, for the first two weeks of its life, 592 00:50:43,360 --> 00:50:44,713 can't swim. 593 00:50:45,800 --> 00:50:48,678 And unless the beach is gently shelving, 594 00:50:48,760 --> 00:50:51,718 then there's a danger that a big wave may come in 595 00:50:51,800 --> 00:50:54,155 and sweep it away and drown it. 596 00:50:55,320 --> 00:50:59,279 The sunny, sandy beaches have now been claimed by others. 597 00:50:59,840 --> 00:51:02,718 Now the seals must use places like this. 598 00:51:02,800 --> 00:51:06,156 A tiny cave that can only be reached from the sea 599 00:51:06,240 --> 00:51:09,198 and only entered by boat in a flat calm 600 00:51:09,280 --> 00:51:14,274 which is why this little pup has been born in safety 601 00:51:14,360 --> 00:51:16,157 and survives. 602 00:51:18,760 --> 00:51:22,958 And now, it's just old enough to play in the break. 603 00:52:28,520 --> 00:52:31,717 It was in the lands around this sea 604 00:52:31,800 --> 00:52:34,678 that some 10,000 years ago 605 00:52:34,760 --> 00:52:39,151 human beings first discovered how to tame animals and cultivate plants. 606 00:52:40,240 --> 00:52:41,639 Could it be here too 607 00:52:41,720 --> 00:52:46,953 that they also first learned from the mistakes they made during that process? 608 00:52:47,520 --> 00:52:52,753 That nations, no matter what their political philosophy or economic circumstance, 609 00:52:52,840 --> 00:52:54,876 or religious beliefs, 610 00:52:54,960 --> 00:52:59,078 recognised that they simply had to get together and agree 611 00:52:59,160 --> 00:53:04,712 if they were to save these wild landscapes and the animals and plants that live in them. 612 00:53:05,400 --> 00:53:09,109 That that perhaps is just one more lesson 613 00:53:09,200 --> 00:53:12,237 that the Mediterranean could offer to the world. 614 00:53:12,960 --> 00:53:17,875 For surely these things are among our most precious possessions, 615 00:53:17,960 --> 00:53:23,080 the last glimpses we have of mankind's first Eden. 59589

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