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Imagine a realm where the season's rhythms rule
where centuries of agriculture and fishing have reshaped the land
yet where people and nature remain in harmony
Sangoro Tanaka lives in just such a paradise
At 83, he's a guardian of one of Japan's secret watergardens
Over 1000 years, towns and villages have developed a unique system
to make springs and water part of their homes
From inside their houses, the stream pours into Japan's largest freshwater lake
near the ancient capital of Kyoto
This is a habitat so precious,
the Japanese have a special word for it: Satoyama
villages where mountains give way to plains
They are exceptional environments essential to both the people who maintain them
and to the wildlife that now share them
Late February, at Lake Biwa, an area 5 times the size of Paris
Its year has 4 distinct seasons
Reeds desiccated by winter winds fuel the heat of spring
They are all trimmings, the rest have gone to make roofs or screens
Flames consume both pest and weed
The ash will prove a powerful fertilizer
Destruction creates the very conditions in which a wide range of species will eventually flourish
By April, new shoots sprout
the fire and smoke have provoked new growth
Spring puts on its new coat
Melt water cascades from the mountains swelling the lake till it brims over
parched earth soaked into wetland
Sudden sounds split the still of the day
A chain of male carp dance after a female
Some are longer than a man's arm, but she's bigger still, heavy with eggs
She releases her eggs, up to 200,000 of them
and the males race to fertilize them
For the rest of the year, this carp inhabit the chilled depths of the lake
To spawn, they must seek warm shallows
Spring's rising energy is released
Over 200 carp found here today
The conditions created by the firing of the marsh,
offer an ideal site for breeding
There are only a few days a year when so many fish throng here
Sangoro, the fisherman, won't miss his chance
His methods, his 20-year-old boat, his bamboo pole all are tried and tested
It takes years to really master the art of punting
The river courses with fresh mountain torrents
but here and there, natural springs well up from the bottom
The marsh is a maze,
but to Sangoro, it's as familiar as his garden
He has some 50 traps set in various corners
The carp are Lake Biwa's spring gift
Sangoro only fishes from March to June
when the shoals retreat to the lake
He uses a simply snare of traditional materials
There's not even any bait
He just sinks a trap for the fish to swim into
His haul includes other fish as well as carp
as they all flock to spawn in the shallows
This trap is full of carp called crucians
With a single trap, he may net a dozen fish to take home
As soon as Sangoro returns, he prepares the fish for the table
The catch is usually sold or cooked for super that evening
But today, he's preparing funazushi
Funazushi is believed to be how sushi first started, perhaps 1000 years ago
It's salted and fermented crucian carp and rice
It smells sour and takes a long time to make
First, salt your fish
stand for 3 months
mix with boiled rice to ferment
leave another 6 months
The ingredients - rice and fish
are the key items of the Japanese diet
Sangoro's home lies about 2km inland from the lakeshore
Water from boreholes under the village is piped into the houses
After it's been used, the water passes into a manmade stream
What could be a barren canal teems with hidden life
As spring gives way to early summer
aquatic plants reach for the sun
This one takes its name from the tree flower it resembles
the palm flower underwater buttercup
This little stickleback has no scales
and can only live in the clearest of freshwater
It normally prefers cold northern currents
This is the further south it's found
The channel also harbors some strange-looking creatures
brook lampreys, primitive jawless fish that resemble eels
A river crab discovers just how slippery lampreys are
The channel through the village is home to creatures large and small
The water sustains people, too
And in turn, they use it sustainably
Each home has a built-in pool or water tank
that lies partly inside, partly outside its walls
In the pool large friendly ornamental carp
A continuous stream of spring water is piped right into a basin
so freshwater is always available
The carp are not purely ornamental
nor are they to be eaten
People rinse out pots in the tanks
and clean their freshly picked vegetables
If they simply pour the food scraps back in the water
they risk polluting the whole village supply
however
carp can scour out even the greasy or burnt ponds
They do the washing up in Satoyama villages
This traditional arrangement is called the riverside method
it's used all over Japan
Cleaned up by the carp,
the tank water eventually rejoins the channel
For some wildlife, the manmade creek provides an ideal place to raise young
Like this variety of freshwater goby,
a small fish about as long as a little finger
The villagers call it the tiny mud crawler
A male is busy excavating a breeding site
The even bottom supplies a perfect tidy hole
As always the best locations are highly sought after
Here comes another male
he'd like to move in
And he's prepared to fight for it
both do all they can to look threatening
Opening their mouths and erecting their dorsal fins to look bigger
It's a victory for the sitting tenant
There's another goby behind him
She is hanging upside-down and she's laying eggs
The victory over the den gave her a place to spawn in safety
The old simply life of Satoyama communities
is attracting some young Japanese back from the cities
It's June, 4 months after the hungry flames licked the air
reeds that rose from the ashes now reach overhead
The marshy landscape takes on its summer look
The dense growth is almost like a jungle
A world filled with tiny lives
Each single reed stem is a microcosm
Tiny organisms called pseudoplankton live on their surface
Forests of tentacles reach out to seize organic material
Earlier in spring, young carp hatched in the flooded fields,
They stay there for about 3 months
The reed beds are their nurseries
where they have plenty to eat and are concealed from predatory birds
An infant fish meets a sudden end
It's been grabbed
The attacker is the larva of Japan's largest dragonfly
This aggressive ambusher hides in sand or gravel
Only its head protrudes as it lies in wait for its prey
Its correct name is the golden-ringed dragonfly
But to the Japanese and to Sangoro,
in its adult form it's the king of dragonflies
Chicks accompany a parent coot
Now is the best time to find food
An adult calls in warning
the cause, the coot's number one enemy, a weasel
egg-thief and baby coot snatcher
a narrow escape
Waterfowl have to guard against foxes and snakes too
For safety, grebes make floating fortresses anchored to firmly rooted plants
An adult bird is particularly alert when the eggs are hatching
Each grebe has its own territory
and each nests at the same place every year
Here comes Sangoro
the birds know him already
This is his regular route
He spends 2 hours checking all the traps he set yesterday
His work done, Sangoro returns to the landing stage
You should see the ones that got away
Turning muddy banks into reed beds has paid dividends
He has nearly 50 fish in all of 8 different types
Sangoro won't eat the smallest fish
he puts them aside
He will share his good fortune
This grey heron knows what will happen next
Sangoro finishes cleaning out his boat
and another pair of eyes watches his every move
Each fishing season this kite pays Sangoro a visit
When Sangoro leaves, the grey heron doesn't wait any longer
It's happy to clear up
Sangoro left the tittles for the birds
It's his way of sharing nature's riches with those around him
And they are only too pleased to take part
The kite will take the fish back to hungry chicks
Where the village houses crowd most closely together
above a garden, a lone pine towers
on a branch is a large nest
There are two chicks there
They are developing steadily under the watchful eyes of the villagers
Sangoro's gift is a token of the village's close ties with wildlife
It's 5 days since the gobies first laid eggs in the village channel
The male is still around
He's very protective,
keeping predators away and taking great care of his offspring
Golden eyes peer out of the egg capsules
They are ready to break out
The anxious father fans them, keeping them oxygenated
The newly hatched young are barely the size of a match head
Tiny as they are, they are about to embark on a journey
They will ride the current, the 2km to Lake Biwa
There, they will feed on the abundant plankton
At the same time, another new life is about to undergo a striking change
The larva of a golden-ringed dragonfly
In the dark, hidden from predators
it quietly begins its metamorphosis
The larva is now a fully-winged dragonfly
In ten days, it will be sexually mature
and ready to trigger the next generation
In the sticky heat of mid-July, villagers gather
Overgrown banks block the stream, time to clear the water plants
20 families bond together for their part of the channel
For the villagers, it's a welcome task their ancestors carried out for hundreds of years
For the fish in the creek, it's a huge nuisance
Flushed out of the shade of vegetation, they seek refuge elsewhere
It's the children's big moment
With wild creatures so close, children experience nature directly
Fish and birds are an everyday part of their lives
3 months have elapsed at Sangoro's house
Sangoro's wife, washes the fish salted in spring
Next, she will bury them in rice
Sangoro's job is the back-breaking bit
First, they lay out the fish evenly
then, they cover them
They build up several layers
The rice-starch feeds microorganisms that cause fermentation
With nature's blessing, the funazushi will be good again this year
After the clean up, the channel runs smooth and clear
Small fry are encouraged to return
The young gobies are now the size of a finger nail
ten times as big as they were
The hatchlings from the village have spent 2 months feeding on Lake Biwa's planktons
They press on upstream, no obstacle deters them
not even vertical walls
Inland, the channel narrows
And ahead lies something only too keen to greet them
It's a Japanese keel back
It feeds on fish which is unusual for terrestrial snakes
The quick brown keel back catches the lazy goby
Those who escape continue their travels upstream
They must avoid herons and carnivorous fish, too
The little gobies must find somewhere safe from ambushers
They bump into a row of fence posts
inside are carp which won't attack them
It's the channel that carries away the household's used water
Sangoro's pool offers the young goby sanctuary
even if he will have to do the dishes
The villagers endure the humid days of late summer with their natural neighbors
It's a drowsy afternoon
the moist air drains everyone's energy
The temperature of the spring water in the house pools remains a constant pleasure
Autumn brings welcome fresh breezes
It's time to gather rice, the staple food of the Japanese
As the rice dries in the autumn sun
the smell of hay spreads across the fields
With the harvest in, the time has come to give thanks
Sangoro picks two live fish from the house pool
They will survive
but, tomorrow is the day the god of the rice paddy goes back to the mountains
He won't depart without being given offerings:
rice cakes, sake, white radishes and the fresh fish
Sangoro believes that the god of his rice paddy will eat before leaving
The god will return next spring when rice is sown again
Each element in nature has its own god
Every tree, rock and stream, 8 million gods of nature in all
Prayer and ritual express Sangoro's gratitude
He's almost totally self-sufficient, thanks to the gifts of nature
It's December, winter's harshness looms
Bitter winds start to gust from the lake
sturdy green gives way to brittle gold
Nine months have passed since the scorched earth sent out shoots
Now the reeds soar above
The slim stems will make screens and thatch
The farmers cut carefully
they don't snap or bend the long stalks
Practice has made them perfect
They heap the bundles into a tent-like shape called a round stand
The stands will be left to dry all through the winter
The stands are visible reminders of the close connection
between the farmers and the environment they have created
Winter grips the north of Lake Biwa
But even snow can't totally erase the traces of spring
In Sangoro's house, the local delicacy is finally ready
He caught the carp in his trap in spring
He and his wife salted them
and when summer came covered them in rice to ferment
Now a further 6 months have passed
They will eat both fish and rice
Inside is more evidence of nature's bounty
The orange eggs
Sangoro invites his neighbors to share the funazushi
After half a year of maturing,
the fish has a sour taste of cheese
Slow food that is endlessly satisfying
Preparation, preservation and finally appreciation,
the precious pleasures of people living close to nature
Right next to their dining room, there is the basin full to the brim
It's cool in summer, warm in winter
The Japanese describe tight-knit relationships
as being as close as water and fish
intimate and inseparable
Like the pool and this little refuge
The goby sits in a quiet corner waiting for spring
March finally comes round again
The reed beds have slept throughout the winter
Now the first rays of sun coax warmth into them
Once more, the silence yields to sounds of life
As the rhythm of the year picks up,
so do lives: human and animal
The Japanese have another saying:
Water comes, the fish live
They mean that when the right time comes, everything will be fine
Sangoro knows that in the way of Satoyama everything has its season
Together, Satoyama people and nature weave life into a seamless fabric
blessed by water circling on its journey without end
A new season, a new year, a new cycle
all begin in Japan's Secret Watergarden
Subtitles by Andrew and Hattie www.mvgroup.org
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