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Imagine a realm where the season's rhythms rule
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where centuries of agriculture
and fishing have reshaped the land
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yet where people and nature remain in harmony
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Sangoro Tanaka lives in just such a paradise
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At 83, he's a guardian of one
of Japan's secret watergardens
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00:00:52,600 --> 00:00:57,950
Over 1000 years, towns and villages
have developed a unique system
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to make springs and water part of their homes
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From inside their houses, the stream
pours into Japan's largest freshwater lake
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near the ancient capital of Kyoto
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This is a habitat so precious,
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the Japanese have a special word for it: Satoyama
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villages where mountains give way to plains
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They are exceptional environments essential
to both the people who maintain them
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and to the wildlife that now share them
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Late February, at Lake Biwa,
an area 5 times the size of Paris
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Its year has 4 distinct seasons
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Reeds desiccated by winter winds
fuel the heat of spring
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They are all trimmings, the rest have gone
to make roofs or screens
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Flames consume both pest and weed
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The ash will prove a powerful fertilizer
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Destruction creates the very conditions in which
a wide range of species will eventually flourish
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By April, new shoots sprout
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the fire and smoke have provoked new growth
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Spring puts on its new coat
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Melt water cascades from the mountains
swelling the lake till it brims over
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parched earth soaked into wetland
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00:03:39,400 --> 00:03:43,250
Sudden sounds split the still of the day
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A chain of male carp dance after a female
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Some are longer than a man's arm,
but she's bigger still, heavy with eggs
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She releases her eggs, up to 200,000 of them
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and the males race to fertilize them
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For the rest of the year,
this carp inhabit the chilled depths of the lake
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To spawn, they must seek warm shallows
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Spring's rising energy is released
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Over 200 carp found here today
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The conditions created by the firing of the marsh,
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offer an ideal site for breeding
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There are only a few days a year
when so many fish throng here
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Sangoro, the fisherman, won't miss his chance
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His methods, his 20-year-old boat,
his bamboo pole all are tried and tested
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It takes years to really master
the art of punting
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The river courses with fresh mountain torrents
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but here and there, natural springs
well up from the bottom
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The marsh is a maze,
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but to Sangoro, it's as familiar as his garden
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He has some 50 traps set in various corners
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The carp are Lake Biwa's spring gift
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Sangoro only fishes from March to June
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when the shoals retreat to the lake
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He uses a simply snare of traditional materials
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There's not even any bait
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He just sinks a trap for the fish to swim into
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His haul includes other fish as well as carp
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as they all flock to spawn in the shallows
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This trap is full of carp called crucians
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With a single trap, he may
net a dozen fish to take home
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00:08:35,300 --> 00:08:40,450
As soon as Sangoro returns,
he prepares the fish for the table
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The catch is usually sold
or cooked for super that evening
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But today, he's preparing funazushi
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00:08:54,100 --> 00:09:00,750
Funazushi is believed to be how sushi
first started, perhaps 1000 years ago
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00:09:04,800 --> 00:09:08,750
It's salted and fermented crucian carp and rice
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It smells sour and takes a long time to make
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First, salt your fish
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stand for 3 months
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mix with boiled rice to ferment
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leave another 6 months
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The ingredients - rice and fish
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are the key items of the Japanese diet
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Sangoro's home lies about
2km inland from the lakeshore
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Water from boreholes under the village
is piped into the houses
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After it's been used, the water
passes into a manmade stream
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What could be a barren canal
teems with hidden life
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00:10:23,200 --> 00:10:25,650
As spring gives way to early summer
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aquatic plants reach for the sun
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00:10:28,700 --> 00:10:32,750
This one takes its name from
the tree flower it resembles
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the palm flower underwater buttercup
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This little stickleback has no scales
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and can only live in the clearest of freshwater
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It normally prefers cold northern currents
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This is the further south it's found
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00:11:14,100 --> 00:11:18,150
The channel also harbors
some strange-looking creatures
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brook lampreys, primitive jawless fish
that resemble eels
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A river crab discovers just
how slippery lampreys are
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00:11:36,100 --> 00:11:40,850
The channel through the village is home
to creatures large and small
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The water sustains people, too
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And in turn, they use it sustainably
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Each home has a built-in pool or water tank
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that lies partly inside,
partly outside its walls
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In the pool large friendly ornamental carp
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00:12:12,800 --> 00:12:17,350
A continuous stream of spring water
is piped right into a basin
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so freshwater is always available
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00:12:27,700 --> 00:12:30,650
The carp are not purely ornamental
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nor are they to be eaten
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People rinse out pots in the tanks
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and clean their freshly picked vegetables
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If they simply pour the food scraps
back in the water
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they risk polluting the whole village supply
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however
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carp can scour out even the greasy
or burnt ponds
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00:13:05,200 --> 00:13:09,550
They do the washing up in Satoyama villages
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00:13:13,200 --> 00:13:17,450
This traditional arrangement
is called the riverside method
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it's used all over Japan
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Cleaned up by the carp,
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the tank water eventually rejoins the channel
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00:13:38,500 --> 00:13:45,350
For some wildlife, the manmade creek
provides an ideal place to raise young
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00:13:53,400 --> 00:13:56,650
Like this variety of freshwater goby,
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a small fish about as long as a little finger
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00:14:01,400 --> 00:14:05,150
The villagers call it the tiny mud crawler
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00:14:05,200 --> 00:14:08,650
A male is busy excavating
a breeding site
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The even bottom supplies
a perfect tidy hole
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As always the best locations
are highly sought after
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Here comes another male
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he'd like to move in
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And he's prepared to fight for it
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both do all they can to look threatening
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Opening their mouths and erecting
their dorsal fins to look bigger
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It's a victory for the sitting tenant
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There's another goby behind him
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She is hanging upside-down
and she's laying eggs
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00:15:36,600 --> 00:15:41,850
The victory over the den gave her
a place to spawn in safety
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00:15:51,300 --> 00:15:54,650
The old simply life of Satoyama communities
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is attracting some young Japanese
back from the cities
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00:16:09,500 --> 00:16:14,250
It's June, 4 months after
the hungry flames licked the air
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00:16:14,300 --> 00:16:18,550
reeds that rose from the ashes
now reach overhead
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00:16:21,300 --> 00:16:25,450
The marshy landscape takes on its summer look
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00:16:32,500 --> 00:16:35,950
The dense growth is almost like a jungle
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A world filled with tiny lives
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Each single reed stem is a microcosm
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00:16:55,000 --> 00:17:00,250
Tiny organisms called pseudoplankton
live on their surface
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00:17:03,300 --> 00:17:08,150
Forests of tentacles reach out
to seize organic material
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00:17:31,200 --> 00:17:36,350
Earlier in spring, young carp
hatched in the flooded fields,
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They stay there for about 3 months
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The reed beds are their nurseries
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where they have plenty to eat and
are concealed from predatory birds
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00:17:50,800 --> 00:17:54,450
An infant fish meets a sudden end
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It's been grabbed
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00:18:02,600 --> 00:18:07,650
The attacker is the larva
of Japan's largest dragonfly
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00:18:14,300 --> 00:18:18,750
This aggressive ambusher hides
in sand or gravel
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00:18:30,600 --> 00:18:36,450
Only its head protrudes as it lies
in wait for its prey
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00:18:44,100 --> 00:18:48,750
Its correct name is the golden-ringed dragonfly
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00:18:49,800 --> 00:18:52,850
But to the Japanese and to Sangoro,
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in its adult form
it's the king of dragonflies
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00:19:01,600 --> 00:19:05,050
Chicks accompany a parent coot
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00:19:06,100 --> 00:19:09,250
Now is the best time to find food
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00:19:13,300 --> 00:19:16,050
An adult calls in warning
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the cause, the coot's number one enemy, a weasel
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egg-thief and baby coot snatcher
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a narrow escape
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00:19:35,100 --> 00:19:39,550
Waterfowl have to guard
against foxes and snakes too
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00:19:41,600 --> 00:19:48,050
For safety, grebes make floating fortresses
anchored to firmly rooted plants
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An adult bird is particularly alert
when the eggs are hatching
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00:20:01,600 --> 00:20:03,850
Each grebe has its own territory
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and each nests at the same place every year
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Here comes Sangoro
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the birds know him already
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This is his regular route
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He spends 2 hours checking
all the traps he set yesterday
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His work done, Sangoro returns
to the landing stage
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00:20:51,700 --> 00:20:54,550
You should see the ones that got away
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00:21:07,600 --> 00:21:11,250
Turning muddy banks into reed beds
has paid dividends
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He has nearly 50 fish in all
of 8 different types
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Sangoro won't eat the smallest fish
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he puts them aside
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He will share his good fortune
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This grey heron knows
what will happen next
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Sangoro finishes cleaning out his boat
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and another pair of eyes
watches his every move
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00:22:00,100 --> 00:22:04,550
Each fishing season this kite
pays Sangoro a visit
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00:22:08,600 --> 00:22:12,850
When Sangoro leaves, the grey heron
doesn't wait any longer
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It's happy to clear up
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00:22:22,000 --> 00:22:24,750
Sangoro left the tittles for the birds
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It's his way of sharing nature's riches
with those around him
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And they are only too pleased to take part
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The kite will take the fish
back to hungry chicks
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Where the village houses crowd
most closely together
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above a garden, a lone pine towers
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on a branch is a large nest
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There are two chicks there
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They are developing steadily under
the watchful eyes of the villagers
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00:24:09,200 --> 00:24:16,050
Sangoro's gift is a token of the
village's close ties with wildlife
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00:24:30,100 --> 00:24:35,850
It's 5 days since the gobies first
laid eggs in the village channel
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The male is still around
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He's very protective,
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keeping predators away and
taking great care of his offspring
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Golden eyes peer out of the egg capsules
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They are ready to break out
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The anxious father fans them,
keeping them oxygenated
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The newly hatched young are
barely the size of a match head
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Tiny as they are, they are
about to embark on a journey
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They will ride the current,
the 2km to Lake Biwa
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There, they will feed
on the abundant plankton
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00:26:22,100 --> 00:26:28,850
At the same time, another new life
is about to undergo a striking change
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The larva of a golden-ringed dragonfly
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In the dark, hidden from predators
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it quietly begins its metamorphosis
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The larva is now a fully-winged dragonfly
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In ten days, it will be sexually mature
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and ready to trigger the next generation
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00:28:32,800 --> 00:28:36,750
In the sticky heat of mid-July,
villagers gather
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00:28:48,400 --> 00:28:55,150
Overgrown banks block the stream,
time to clear the water plants
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20 families bond together
for their part of the channel
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For the villagers, it's a welcome task their
ancestors carried out for hundreds of years
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00:29:09,600 --> 00:29:12,850
For the fish in the creek,
it's a huge nuisance
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00:29:12,900 --> 00:29:18,250
Flushed out of the shade of vegetation,
they seek refuge elsewhere
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00:29:26,300 --> 00:29:29,950
It's the children's big moment
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00:30:06,000 --> 00:30:12,450
With wild creatures so close,
children experience nature directly
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Fish and birds are an everyday
part of their lives
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00:30:33,700 --> 00:30:37,350
3 months have elapsed at Sangoro's house
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00:30:37,400 --> 00:30:42,250
Sangoro's wife,
washes the fish salted in spring
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Next, she will bury them in rice
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Sangoro's job is the back-breaking bit
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00:31:10,000 --> 00:31:13,150
First, they lay out the fish evenly
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00:31:13,200 --> 00:31:15,050
then, they cover them
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00:31:15,100 --> 00:31:18,150
They build up several layers
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00:31:28,200 --> 00:31:33,250
The rice-starch feeds microorganisms
that cause fermentation
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00:31:48,300 --> 00:31:52,850
With nature's blessing, the funazushi
will be good again this year
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00:32:04,400 --> 00:32:08,350
After the clean up,
the channel runs smooth and clear
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00:32:08,400 --> 00:32:12,350
Small fry are encouraged to return
219
00:32:18,400 --> 00:32:21,250
The young gobies are now
the size of a finger nail
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00:32:21,300 --> 00:32:24,150
ten times as big as they were
221
00:32:34,200 --> 00:32:40,750
The hatchlings from the village have spent
2 months feeding on Lake Biwa's planktons
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They press on upstream,
no obstacle deters them
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not even vertical walls
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00:33:09,800 --> 00:33:12,650
Inland, the channel narrows
225
00:33:12,700 --> 00:33:17,950
And ahead lies something
only too keen to greet them
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00:33:38,000 --> 00:33:41,050
It's a Japanese keel back
227
00:33:43,100 --> 00:33:49,050
It feeds on fish which is unusual
for terrestrial snakes
228
00:34:09,100 --> 00:34:13,350
The quick brown keel back
catches the lazy goby
229
00:34:32,400 --> 00:34:36,150
Those who escape continue
their travels upstream
230
00:34:36,200 --> 00:34:40,650
They must avoid herons
and carnivorous fish, too
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00:34:43,700 --> 00:34:48,850
The little gobies must find
somewhere safe from ambushers
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00:34:53,900 --> 00:34:57,150
They bump into a row of fence posts
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inside are carp which won't attack them
234
00:35:06,600 --> 00:35:10,950
It's the channel that carries away
the household's used water
235
00:36:08,900 --> 00:36:13,050
Sangoro's pool offers the young goby sanctuary
236
00:36:13,100 --> 00:36:16,650
even if he will have to do the dishes
237
00:36:23,700 --> 00:36:29,650
The villagers endure the humid days of
late summer with their natural neighbors
238
00:37:41,700 --> 00:37:44,650
It's a drowsy afternoon
239
00:37:44,700 --> 00:37:48,750
the moist air drains everyone's energy
240
00:38:19,800 --> 00:38:26,150
The temperature of the spring water in the
house pools remains a constant pleasure
241
00:38:57,200 --> 00:39:01,850
Autumn brings welcome fresh breezes
242
00:39:01,900 --> 00:39:07,350
It's time to gather rice,
the staple food of the Japanese
243
00:39:11,400 --> 00:39:13,850
As the rice dries in the autumn sun
244
00:39:13,900 --> 00:39:17,350
the smell of hay spreads across the fields
245
00:39:27,400 --> 00:39:32,050
With the harvest in,
the time has come to give thanks
246
00:39:32,100 --> 00:39:37,150
Sangoro picks two live fish
from the house pool
247
00:39:47,200 --> 00:39:49,150
They will survive
248
00:39:49,200 --> 00:39:54,750
but, tomorrow is the day the god of the
rice paddy goes back to the mountains
249
00:39:55,800 --> 00:39:59,150
He won't depart without
being given offerings:
250
00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:04,350
rice cakes, sake, white radishes
and the fresh fish
251
00:40:12,400 --> 00:40:17,450
Sangoro believes that the god of
his rice paddy will eat before leaving
252
00:40:17,500 --> 00:40:22,550
The god will return next spring
when rice is sown again
253
00:40:32,600 --> 00:40:35,850
Each element in nature has its own god
254
00:40:35,900 --> 00:40:42,950
Every tree, rock and stream,
8 million gods of nature in all
255
00:40:45,000 --> 00:40:49,250
Prayer and ritual express Sangoro's gratitude
256
00:40:50,300 --> 00:40:55,350
He's almost totally self-sufficient,
thanks to the gifts of nature
257
00:41:01,400 --> 00:41:05,950
It's December, winter's harshness looms
258
00:41:12,000 --> 00:41:15,050
Bitter winds start to gust from the lake
259
00:41:15,100 --> 00:41:18,750
sturdy green gives way to brittle gold
260
00:41:21,800 --> 00:41:27,150
Nine months have passed since
the scorched earth sent out shoots
261
00:41:34,200 --> 00:41:37,250
Now the reeds soar above
262
00:41:37,300 --> 00:41:41,250
The slim stems will make screens and thatch
263
00:42:04,300 --> 00:42:06,150
The farmers cut carefully
264
00:42:06,200 --> 00:42:09,650
they don't snap or bend the long stalks
265
00:42:19,700 --> 00:42:22,650
Practice has made them perfect
266
00:42:46,700 --> 00:42:52,650
They heap the bundles into a
tent-like shape called a round stand
267
00:42:52,700 --> 00:42:56,850
The stands will be left
to dry all through the winter
268
00:43:15,900 --> 00:43:19,650
The stands are visible reminders
of the close connection
269
00:43:19,700 --> 00:43:24,350
between the farmers and the environment
they have created
270
00:43:36,400 --> 00:43:40,550
Winter grips the north of Lake Biwa
271
00:43:41,600 --> 00:43:47,850
But even snow can't totally
erase the traces of spring
272
00:43:48,900 --> 00:43:53,950
In Sangoro's house,
the local delicacy is finally ready
273
00:43:59,000 --> 00:44:02,450
He caught the carp in his trap in spring
274
00:44:02,500 --> 00:44:04,350
He and his wife salted them
275
00:44:04,400 --> 00:44:08,450
and when summer came covered them
in rice to ferment
276
00:44:08,500 --> 00:44:12,750
Now a further 6 months have passed
277
00:44:17,800 --> 00:44:20,750
They will eat both fish and rice
278
00:44:21,800 --> 00:44:26,650
Inside is more evidence of nature's bounty
279
00:44:27,700 --> 00:44:29,750
The orange eggs
280
00:44:37,800 --> 00:44:42,850
Sangoro invites his neighbors
to share the funazushi
281
00:44:47,900 --> 00:44:50,250
After half a year of maturing,
282
00:44:50,300 --> 00:44:53,250
the fish has a sour taste of cheese
283
00:44:56,300 --> 00:45:00,550
Slow food that is endlessly satisfying
284
00:45:01,600 --> 00:45:06,150
Preparation, preservation and finally appreciation,
285
00:45:06,200 --> 00:45:09,650
the precious pleasures of people
living close to nature
286
00:45:14,500 --> 00:45:18,850
Right next to their dining room,
there is the basin full to the brim
287
00:45:18,900 --> 00:45:22,950
It's cool in summer, warm in winter
288
00:45:32,000 --> 00:45:35,150
The Japanese describe tight-knit relationships
289
00:45:35,200 --> 00:45:38,950
as being as close as water and fish
290
00:45:39,000 --> 00:45:41,850
intimate and inseparable
291
00:45:42,700 --> 00:45:46,950
Like the pool and this little refuge
292
00:45:51,000 --> 00:45:56,150
The goby sits in a quiet corner
waiting for spring
293
00:46:14,200 --> 00:46:17,950
March finally comes round again
294
00:46:20,000 --> 00:46:23,050
The reed beds have slept
throughout the winter
295
00:46:23,100 --> 00:46:27,350
Now the first rays of sun coax warmth into them
296
00:46:37,400 --> 00:46:43,250
Once more, the silence yields to sounds of life
297
00:46:50,300 --> 00:46:52,450
As the rhythm of the year picks up,
298
00:46:52,500 --> 00:46:56,450
so do lives: human and animal
299
00:47:02,500 --> 00:47:05,050
The Japanese have another saying:
300
00:47:05,100 --> 00:47:08,050
Water comes, the fish live
301
00:47:08,100 --> 00:47:13,850
They mean that when the right time comes,
everything will be fine
302
00:47:20,900 --> 00:47:27,050
Sangoro knows that in the way of
Satoyama everything has its season
303
00:47:38,100 --> 00:47:45,550
Together, Satoyama people and nature
weave life into a seamless fabric
304
00:47:45,600 --> 00:47:51,650
blessed by water circling
on its journey without end
305
00:47:56,700 --> 00:48:01,250
A new season, a new year, a new cycle
306
00:48:01,300 --> 00:48:06,350
all begin in Japan's Secret Watergarden
307
00:48:07,400 --> 00:48:28,350
Subtitles by Andrew and Hattie
www.mvgroup.org
26050
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