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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:42,200 --> 00:00:48,000 The Niger River brought me to the heart of the Sahara but no further. 2 00:00:49,160 --> 00:00:54,000 From here on, the only ships I'll see are ships of the desert 3 00:00:54,000 --> 00:00:59,160 and where better to get acquainted with them than the city of Timbuktu? 4 00:00:59,280 --> 00:01:02,320 CAMEL GROANS 5 00:01:05,400 --> 00:01:08,240 Well, I've reached Timbuktu. 6 00:01:08,240 --> 00:01:12,200 CAMEL GRUNTS I said I've reached Timbuktu. 7 00:01:12,200 --> 00:01:16,360 CAMEL GRUNTS Not again - I've reached Timbuktu! 8 00:01:16,360 --> 00:01:19,640 And...back in the Sahara, 9 00:01:19,640 --> 00:01:23,880 for the first time in the land of the Tuareg, 10 00:01:23,880 --> 00:01:29,040 the Saharan nomad traders who founded Timbuktu about 800 years ago as a trading post 11 00:01:30,680 --> 00:01:35,040 for that most precious commodity of the Sahara - salt. 12 00:01:35,040 --> 00:01:39,280 The extraordinary thing is that still today 13 00:01:39,280 --> 00:01:44,400 the salt is brought down on camels in these great tablets, as it was all those years ago, 14 00:01:46,040 --> 00:01:50,080 from the mines 800km up into the desert. 15 00:01:50,080 --> 00:01:54,760 Nothing's really changed, has it? Well, you've changed, but... 16 00:01:54,760 --> 00:01:59,440 you look the same as the original camels and herders, don't you? 17 00:01:59,440 --> 00:02:04,440 How is it lugging all that salt around? It must be sheer hell! 18 00:02:04,440 --> 00:02:07,160 Is it nice now it's finished? 19 00:02:07,160 --> 00:02:10,160 CAMEL GRUNTS Yeah. 20 00:02:10,160 --> 00:02:13,040 'But things HAVE changed.' 21 00:02:13,040 --> 00:02:18,040 Today, the Tuareg are more likely to be found camped against the walls, 22 00:02:18,040 --> 00:02:20,840 sheltering from the desert, 23 00:02:20,840 --> 00:02:23,960 and the walls aren't what they were. 24 00:02:23,960 --> 00:02:26,960 Once inside the crumbling ramparts, 25 00:02:26,960 --> 00:02:30,760 it's hard to tell what it is about this desert city 26 00:02:30,760 --> 00:02:33,680 that has enthralled travellers 27 00:02:33,680 --> 00:02:38,600 and why it is that so many risked their lives to reach these streets. 28 00:02:41,440 --> 00:02:46,120 This mosque is evidence of the golden age of Timbuktu. 29 00:02:49,520 --> 00:02:53,440 El-Saheli, inventor of mud-brick architecture, 30 00:02:53,440 --> 00:02:58,520 designed and built it for Mansa Moussa, the immensely rich emperor, 31 00:02:58,640 --> 00:03:02,600 at a time when Mali was the greatest empire in Africa. 32 00:03:04,280 --> 00:03:09,480 This great mosque here at Timbuktu is an extraordinarily powerful and quietly affecting building. 33 00:03:11,240 --> 00:03:14,360 It's built on almost 100 columns 34 00:03:14,360 --> 00:03:18,000 and it creates a sort of forest of cool 35 00:03:18,000 --> 00:03:20,880 in this cauldron of heat outside. 36 00:03:20,880 --> 00:03:24,560 It was originally constructed in 1325 37 00:03:24,560 --> 00:03:28,200 and the sheer scale of the place is testimony 38 00:03:28,200 --> 00:03:32,400 to the power of the Islamic presence in the Middle Ages. 39 00:03:42,400 --> 00:03:45,120 # Allahu akbar. # 40 00:03:51,360 --> 00:03:56,240 It's Friday in Timbuktu, the holiest day of the week for Muslims, 41 00:03:56,240 --> 00:04:00,760 and, after prayers, the imam invites me back to his house. 42 00:04:04,960 --> 00:04:09,520 16th century. Alors, tu vois maintenant la lune, le soleil... 43 00:04:09,520 --> 00:04:14,680 'The imam has scientific texts that clearly show the planets circling the sun. 44 00:04:16,040 --> 00:04:21,160 'They date back hundreds of years, preserved by the dry desert air. 45 00:04:21,160 --> 00:04:26,280 'It's convincing evidence that the scholars of Timbuktu knew a lot more than their counterparts in Europe.' 46 00:04:28,080 --> 00:04:33,280 In 15th-century Timbuktu, the mathematicians knew about rotation of the planets and the eclipse. 47 00:04:35,000 --> 00:04:39,800 They knew things we had to wait for 150 years to know in Europe, 48 00:04:39,800 --> 00:04:44,560 when Galileo and Copernicus came up with these same calculations... 49 00:04:46,160 --> 00:04:49,000 ..and were given a hard time for it. 50 00:04:51,680 --> 00:04:53,920 CHILDREN RECITE THE KORAN 51 00:04:55,400 --> 00:04:57,160 In another part of the imam's house 52 00:04:57,160 --> 00:05:00,800 is a school where children learn the Koran. 53 00:05:00,800 --> 00:05:03,880 On est en train de lutter 54 00:05:03,880 --> 00:05:07,880 afin que Tombouctou retrouve son visage d'avant... 55 00:05:07,880 --> 00:05:13,000 He explained to me that he hopes that Timbuktu can one day regain some of its former glory 56 00:05:15,480 --> 00:05:19,720 and become once again the great centre of scholarship. 57 00:05:19,720 --> 00:05:23,720 ..que Tombouctou puisse retrouver sa culture d'avant. 58 00:05:23,720 --> 00:05:26,720 CHILDREN RECITE 59 00:05:28,280 --> 00:05:32,480 After the Middle Ages, Timbuktu slid into decline, 60 00:05:32,480 --> 00:05:37,560 but its mystique grew, stoked by the fact that no-one could get to it. 61 00:05:37,800 --> 00:05:41,680 In 1826, a Scot, Alexander Laing, rediscovered Timbuktu. 62 00:05:41,680 --> 00:05:44,280 'His house is for sale, if you fancy a weekend hideaway.' 63 00:05:44,280 --> 00:05:47,400 Over a period of about 350 years, 64 00:05:47,400 --> 00:05:51,400 43 separate people tried to get to Timbuktu 65 00:05:51,400 --> 00:05:55,480 and only four of them succeeded. Laing was the first. 66 00:05:55,480 --> 00:05:59,520 When he got here, it looked pretty much like this. 67 00:05:59,520 --> 00:06:04,480 It was certainly not the fabled city of wealth that he'd expected. 68 00:06:04,480 --> 00:06:08,280 He stayed for a while and they were hospitable. 69 00:06:08,280 --> 00:06:13,520 As he went home, he fell out with the people who were taking him back. They asked him to convert to Islam. 70 00:06:15,280 --> 00:06:19,520 He said no, so they cut his head off, aged 33. 71 00:06:19,520 --> 00:06:24,560 That was the end of Laing, but his house is here and it's available. 72 00:06:24,560 --> 00:06:29,760 I can see myself festering here, gazing mournfully back at the past, 73 00:06:30,120 --> 00:06:32,840 but the desert beckons. 74 00:06:32,840 --> 00:06:36,920 East of Timbuktu, the Sahara is virtually inaccessible 75 00:06:36,920 --> 00:06:41,160 to all but the nomads who move their cattle across it. 76 00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:46,000 Each year, they have a get-together at Ingal, in the Republic of Niger. 77 00:06:51,160 --> 00:06:56,360 These are the Wodaabe - a tall, elegant people thought originally to have come from Ethiopia. 78 00:06:58,040 --> 00:07:01,680 They walk and ride hundreds of miles a year, 79 00:07:01,680 --> 00:07:04,520 seeking pasture for their cattle. 80 00:07:08,000 --> 00:07:11,600 They move camp every six or seven days, 81 00:07:11,600 --> 00:07:14,680 so all they own must be portable. 82 00:07:16,680 --> 00:07:19,720 GIRL SPEAKS TO DONKEY 83 00:07:22,200 --> 00:07:27,440 Rains have brought food and water and they must take advantage of the conditions to fatten their cattle. 84 00:07:31,040 --> 00:07:36,000 The Wodaabe grow no food, so without the animals, they would not survive. 85 00:07:38,080 --> 00:07:42,120 The fattening of the animals on the salt grass 86 00:07:42,120 --> 00:07:46,880 is celebrated at an annual festival called Cure Salee - 87 00:07:46,880 --> 00:07:49,440 the salt cure. 88 00:07:49,440 --> 00:07:54,600 This great gathering of the nomadic clans is now only days away. 89 00:07:54,760 --> 00:07:59,160 'One of their spokesmen - they don't have chiefs - is Doulla.' 90 00:07:59,160 --> 00:08:03,440 Tous les gens de meme famille? One pere, one mere... 91 00:08:03,440 --> 00:08:05,600 Ah, oui. 92 00:08:05,600 --> 00:08:10,440 'In a combination of French and a little English, he explains 93 00:08:10,440 --> 00:08:14,960 'that everyone in this group comes from the same family line.' 94 00:08:14,960 --> 00:08:17,040 Perri! 95 00:08:17,040 --> 00:08:21,720 Ah, Perri. Qui est Perri? Je te presente Perri. Ah, ca va? 96 00:08:21,720 --> 00:08:27,000 'He introduces me to Perri, sporting heavy-duty Austrian sunglasses, 97 00:08:27,360 --> 00:08:30,240 'which I never see him remove. 98 00:08:30,240 --> 00:08:33,880 'Though Perri looks like the Godfather, 99 00:08:33,880 --> 00:08:37,880 'Doulla assures me he's only the brother-in-law.' 100 00:08:37,880 --> 00:08:41,000 ..comme il est cher. Ah, oui. 101 00:08:41,000 --> 00:08:45,640 The obvious non-family member is a French student called Celine, 102 00:08:45,640 --> 00:08:48,720 who's been living with the group. 103 00:08:48,720 --> 00:08:53,960 She shares everything. The contents of her medicine bag are in demand. 104 00:08:54,560 --> 00:08:59,760 What are relationships like among the Wodaabe between men and women? 105 00:09:00,080 --> 00:09:05,040 Some of them have three or four wives. Are there problems there? 106 00:09:05,200 --> 00:09:08,800 It's a free life here. The woman is... 107 00:09:08,800 --> 00:09:12,280 I can't say free, but more or less free, 108 00:09:12,280 --> 00:09:16,760 like all around the world are free women. So, she can... 109 00:09:16,760 --> 00:09:22,000 She is with her husband. Yes. But if she want, she can leave him. 110 00:09:22,200 --> 00:09:25,240 She can go to... She can go... 111 00:09:25,240 --> 00:09:29,160 She can go to...with another man. 112 00:09:29,160 --> 00:09:31,200 They're quite liberated sexually. 113 00:09:31,200 --> 00:09:33,840 More or less, yes. Yeah. 114 00:09:35,360 --> 00:09:39,120 It's important for them to look beautiful. Yes, very important. 115 00:09:39,120 --> 00:09:44,120 When a man choose a woman or when a woman choose a man, 116 00:09:44,280 --> 00:09:48,400 the first thing they look is the beauty of the person. 117 00:09:48,400 --> 00:09:51,440 MEN SING 118 00:09:51,440 --> 00:09:54,480 This must be one of the most extraordinary beauty contests 119 00:09:54,480 --> 00:09:55,960 I've ever seen. 120 00:09:55,960 --> 00:09:57,600 It's called the Gerewol, 121 00:09:57,600 --> 00:10:01,320 and it is a sort of Wodaabe equivalent of the high school hop. 122 00:10:01,320 --> 00:10:06,120 The young men go to enormous lengths to make themselves irresistible. 123 00:10:06,120 --> 00:10:09,160 This means plenty of make up, exotic hairdressing, 124 00:10:09,160 --> 00:10:12,320 the ability to repeat the same song and the same movement 125 00:10:12,320 --> 00:10:14,800 for hours on end, and some very fancy eye work. 126 00:10:25,440 --> 00:10:28,280 How long do they dance for? 127 00:10:28,280 --> 00:10:33,240 Something like seven days. Seven days? Yeah. Seven days?! 128 00:10:40,040 --> 00:10:42,080 Now it's the girls' turn. 129 00:10:42,080 --> 00:10:45,120 Once decked out in all their finery by doting mothers, 130 00:10:45,120 --> 00:10:48,160 aunts and grannies, they will parade in front of the boys, 131 00:10:48,160 --> 00:10:50,800 and make their choice of partner. 132 00:10:54,440 --> 00:10:58,880 They look very beautiful, very young, and rather frightened. 133 00:10:58,880 --> 00:11:02,560 MEN SING 134 00:11:14,160 --> 00:11:18,400 Now comes the time for the girls to play their part in the ceremony. 135 00:11:24,520 --> 00:11:26,240 Now is the... 136 00:11:26,240 --> 00:11:31,400 Do they come forward. Yes. People like a woman, want to choisi. 137 00:11:32,680 --> 00:11:35,000 Though the girls have the right to choose, 138 00:11:35,000 --> 00:11:38,240 it looks to be more of an ordeal than a privilege. 139 00:11:38,240 --> 00:11:41,840 Their choice must be made in full view, for everyone to see. 140 00:11:46,640 --> 00:11:49,120 Nerves are beginning to show. 141 00:12:04,240 --> 00:12:06,840 And do the girls... Do they choose... 142 00:12:06,840 --> 00:12:09,040 They choose one boy? Yes, yes. 143 00:12:09,040 --> 00:12:10,840 They go up and they put their hand on him? 144 00:12:10,840 --> 00:12:12,920 Yes, maybe one woman, maybe two. 145 00:12:12,920 --> 00:12:15,200 Ah. If you're supposed to... Ah. 146 00:12:15,200 --> 00:12:16,160 Yes. 147 00:12:18,360 --> 00:12:20,600 Guided by the mistress of ceremonies, 148 00:12:20,600 --> 00:12:23,640 each girl walks the line until contact is made, 149 00:12:23,640 --> 00:12:26,360 and the choice announced in the traditional way. 150 00:12:28,960 --> 00:12:32,560 WOMAN CALLS OUT 151 00:12:33,720 --> 00:12:37,640 Now the worst is over. Her chosen one will meet up with her later. 152 00:12:37,640 --> 00:12:39,160 He's hers for the night. 153 00:12:43,520 --> 00:12:46,000 COW MOOS 154 00:12:52,080 --> 00:12:54,120 Next morning, over breakfast, 155 00:12:54,120 --> 00:12:57,520 I meet a boy and a girl who got together at last year's Gerewol. 156 00:13:00,920 --> 00:13:05,280 Raine, tucking into millet porridge, was chosen by Goode, 157 00:13:05,280 --> 00:13:09,360 and they now have to decide whether they want to get married or not. 158 00:13:09,360 --> 00:13:11,440 This is not a marriage for the parents... 159 00:13:11,440 --> 00:13:13,600 Non - non c'est past mariage pour les parents. 160 00:13:13,600 --> 00:13:17,040 ..so they love each other and sort of like each other? Voila. Yeah. 161 00:13:17,040 --> 00:13:20,360 It's a...mariage pour l'amour. 162 00:13:20,360 --> 00:13:21,520 Oui. Yes. 163 00:13:22,960 --> 00:13:26,400 'Doulla explains that although they've been lovers for a year, 164 00:13:26,400 --> 00:13:28,640 'Goode wants to go to Cure Salee 165 00:13:28,640 --> 00:13:32,920 'and see how Raine shapes up in the big Gerewol dance.' 166 00:13:32,920 --> 00:13:37,080 Le garcon... Yeah... ..qui danse bien... Oh, yes, I see. 167 00:13:37,080 --> 00:13:40,240 'If he dances well, sings well and looks good, 168 00:13:40,240 --> 00:13:42,680 'she'll very likely decide to be his wife.' 169 00:13:42,680 --> 00:13:46,680 ..danse, comme il va faire, et apres vont faire la mariage. 170 00:13:46,680 --> 00:13:48,920 Then they can claim the family bed, 171 00:13:48,920 --> 00:13:51,800 the most important of all Wodaabe status symbols. 172 00:13:53,960 --> 00:13:55,720 CATTLE MOO 173 00:13:55,720 --> 00:13:59,920 But until Cure Salee is over, Goode's keeping everyone guessing. 174 00:14:22,240 --> 00:14:23,680 Well, we're on our way. 175 00:14:23,680 --> 00:14:28,320 The great Wodaabe family outing has begun to Cure Salee, 176 00:14:28,320 --> 00:14:33,480 which is an enormous festival where all the nomads come together for this great once-yearly event. 177 00:14:35,120 --> 00:14:40,320 I'm not sure quite what goes on - all sorts of festivities, dancing - and it's just a bit of a long walk. 178 00:14:42,080 --> 00:14:44,240 Coming! 179 00:14:51,440 --> 00:14:54,360 SPEECH INAUDIBLE 180 00:15:18,360 --> 00:15:23,240 The town where Cure Salee is celebrated is 60 miles from the camp 181 00:15:23,240 --> 00:15:27,080 and no, I admit it, I don't walk the whole way. 182 00:15:27,080 --> 00:15:31,840 I ride to Ingal in a bush taxi with 15 Wodaabe crammed on board, 183 00:15:31,840 --> 00:15:36,360 reducing their travelling time from two days to two hours. 184 00:15:36,360 --> 00:15:39,440 Well, we've now reached... Foma. 185 00:15:39,440 --> 00:15:42,520 Foma. It means "hello" in Wodaabe. 186 00:15:42,520 --> 00:15:46,920 We've reached the big city. It isn't a big city at all. 187 00:15:46,920 --> 00:15:51,040 This is Ingal and it's where Cure Salee takes place. 188 00:15:51,040 --> 00:15:53,800 After where we were, it's a shock, 189 00:15:53,800 --> 00:15:57,720 because there's walls, there's cars, there's police. 190 00:15:57,720 --> 00:16:01,480 There are people looking to rent out property. 191 00:16:01,480 --> 00:16:06,520 They've got this courtyard from some Hausa boys. Probably at a high rent. 192 00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:11,960 It's not totally comfortable here. Country boys come to the big city. 193 00:16:12,280 --> 00:16:17,440 There are lots of their families out there, but they haven't found them. 194 00:16:17,640 --> 00:16:22,720 It's just very different and there's a slightly hostile, cautious feeling 195 00:16:22,720 --> 00:16:26,760 about it all. Salut. Hello. Foma. How are you? 196 00:16:28,200 --> 00:16:33,280 They're so lovely. They walk at this gentle pace and out there is mayhem. 197 00:16:42,840 --> 00:16:48,080 Cure Salee is everything - a party, trade fair, highland games, sports day and agricultural show. 198 00:16:49,720 --> 00:16:52,400 For one week a year, 199 00:16:52,400 --> 00:16:56,040 this little backwater is filled to bursting, 200 00:16:56,040 --> 00:17:00,760 as thousands come to eat and drink, buy and sell, see and be seen, 201 00:17:00,760 --> 00:17:04,160 race camels and generally celebrate 202 00:17:04,160 --> 00:17:07,200 living in a land without boundaries. 203 00:17:07,200 --> 00:17:09,440 SHRIEKS 204 00:17:09,440 --> 00:17:14,160 Un ami? 'For Doulla and Perri, it's also a chance to go shopping.' 205 00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:17,440 Alaykum as-salaam. Marhaba. 206 00:17:17,440 --> 00:17:22,000 Halak zain. Halak zain. Halak muhhi. I don't know all the rest. 207 00:17:22,000 --> 00:17:24,680 I only know the start. 208 00:17:24,680 --> 00:17:28,520 There's 17 different things we have to say. 209 00:17:28,520 --> 00:17:33,800 So, what are we going to buy? I want to buy the sugar. Sugar. Sucre. 210 00:17:34,000 --> 00:17:37,480 For 80 personnes, so... 80 personnes. 211 00:17:37,480 --> 00:17:41,480 So, that's 80 people you're getting provisions for. 212 00:17:42,520 --> 00:17:45,200 Will you stay four days here? 213 00:17:45,200 --> 00:17:49,040 I don't know. I want to dance and see people. 214 00:17:49,040 --> 00:17:52,480 So, you're going to buy new clothes here? 215 00:17:52,480 --> 00:17:55,160 I want to come see this man. 216 00:17:57,800 --> 00:18:02,680 Perri's a bit of a dude, isn't he? Perri always looks rather dashing. 217 00:18:02,680 --> 00:18:05,520 Mine is... Is this new too? Oui. 218 00:18:05,520 --> 00:18:08,440 This is very old. That's old. 219 00:18:08,440 --> 00:18:12,680 Yeah. Not very well worn. Oh, yes, look at that. 220 00:18:12,680 --> 00:18:15,240 Something like this. 221 00:18:15,240 --> 00:18:20,360 You're so much... The clothes are so much more interesting than mine. 222 00:18:20,360 --> 00:18:25,560 It's nothing. These trousers, here they are in beige! It's good, too. 223 00:18:25,800 --> 00:18:31,080 I like these. Me too, I like them. You like them? People like this. 224 00:18:31,280 --> 00:18:32,480 MICHAEL LAUGHS 225 00:18:34,680 --> 00:18:36,640 Bonjour! 226 00:18:40,080 --> 00:18:43,320 Qu'est-ce que c'est, ce chose ici? 227 00:18:43,320 --> 00:18:46,320 Ca, c'est le... C'est du sel. 228 00:18:46,320 --> 00:18:49,200 Oh, that's salt? Yeah. Sel. 229 00:18:49,200 --> 00:18:53,040 Du sel. It looks like solid bars. C'est de Bilma. 230 00:18:53,040 --> 00:18:58,200 Ah - this is salt from Bilma, where the caravans go. Pour les caravanes. 231 00:18:58,720 --> 00:19:03,000 The salt trade is the oldest in the Sahara, 232 00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:06,840 but Cure Salee is not stuck in the past. 233 00:19:06,840 --> 00:19:11,520 It's a bit hot for ski-ing. Yes. In the evening you can do. 234 00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:16,000 Do you ski on sand? Yeah, on sand. Ski for the desert. 235 00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:20,440 Yeah? Ski on desert, yeah. Do you sink into the sand? 236 00:19:20,440 --> 00:19:24,600 I have picture for these skis. Have you got one? Yes. 237 00:19:24,600 --> 00:19:27,160 Let me show it first. OK. 238 00:19:27,160 --> 00:19:31,240 These are European skis, the same as snow skis? Yes. 239 00:19:31,240 --> 00:19:35,000 Same as snow skis. Comment tu t'appelles? 240 00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:40,160 Mon nom, c'est Abdul Qadir Danger. Abdul Qadir Danger. Danger? Yeah. Abdul Qadir Danger. That's good. 241 00:19:42,200 --> 00:19:47,080 Duel Magazine too. Duel Magazine? It's a very good French magazine 242 00:19:47,080 --> 00:19:49,880 for travellers. Yes, I have picture. 243 00:19:49,880 --> 00:19:54,080 Abdul Danger - I'm not sure that gives me confidence. 244 00:19:54,080 --> 00:19:59,040 That's right. I am Michael Cowardly. Michael Cowardly. Highly cowardly. 245 00:19:59,040 --> 00:20:01,880 Michael Cowardly. That's very nice. 246 00:20:01,880 --> 00:20:04,560 Oh, well. I'll think about it. 247 00:20:04,560 --> 00:20:06,560 Just amazing. 248 00:20:06,560 --> 00:20:11,120 So I'll have two African masks, and a course of skiing lessons, please! 249 00:20:11,120 --> 00:20:14,000 MEN SING 250 00:20:14,000 --> 00:20:15,520 As evening approaches, 251 00:20:15,520 --> 00:20:19,760 the crowds gather one of the day's highlights - a mass Gerewol. 252 00:20:23,040 --> 00:20:26,840 Back at base, Raine and the other Wodaabe prepare to join the dance. 253 00:20:36,400 --> 00:20:38,840 They'll be facing some strong competition. 254 00:20:52,360 --> 00:20:56,440 Raine and the boys make final checks in the plastic hand mirrors 255 00:20:56,440 --> 00:20:59,720 that every self-respecting Wodaabe lad carries with him. 256 00:21:06,560 --> 00:21:09,480 With ostrich headdresses rounding off the outfit, 257 00:21:09,480 --> 00:21:11,240 they're ready for the big time. 258 00:21:25,200 --> 00:21:28,520 MEN SING AND CLAP RHYTHMICALLY 259 00:21:28,520 --> 00:21:32,400 Raine's already looking around, maybe wondering where Goode is, 260 00:21:32,400 --> 00:21:35,120 maybe on the lookout for some action himself. 261 00:21:35,120 --> 00:21:38,560 For this, it seems, is what Cure Salee is all about - 262 00:21:38,560 --> 00:21:42,880 the one time in a hard year when tribes who live on the move 263 00:21:42,880 --> 00:21:46,400 can stop in the same place at the same time, 264 00:21:46,400 --> 00:21:51,560 to exchange contacts, advice, and of course, widen the gene pool. 265 00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:09,960 I've benefited from Cure Salee as well, 266 00:22:09,960 --> 00:22:15,160 finding a group of Tuareg who will let us join them on a salt caravan leaving from a nearby village. 267 00:22:17,800 --> 00:22:22,080 The journey will take us across an arid furnace of desert, 268 00:22:22,080 --> 00:22:25,600 but on our way to the village, the almost unbelievable happens. 269 00:22:28,560 --> 00:22:30,480 Well, there IS water in the Sahara. 270 00:22:30,480 --> 00:22:34,240 When the rainy season hits, it's dramatic. 271 00:22:34,240 --> 00:22:39,320 This morning, I could have walked up here. It has happened within a day. 272 00:22:39,480 --> 00:22:43,560 Rains have fallen somewhere - I don't know where. 273 00:22:43,560 --> 00:22:47,400 This will probably come up to my waist height, 274 00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:50,320 and in a week it'll be dry again. 275 00:22:50,320 --> 00:22:55,520 At the oasis of Tabelot, this water stays close enough to the surface to create a minor miracle. 276 00:22:57,720 --> 00:23:00,560 This is like the Garden of Eden. 277 00:23:00,560 --> 00:23:05,800 'And this is Omar, the man who'll soon be leading me and the camel train across the burning sands.' 278 00:23:07,720 --> 00:23:10,400 Orange. Orange, ah! Merci. 279 00:23:10,400 --> 00:23:13,000 C'est bon - rafraichissant. 280 00:23:20,320 --> 00:23:23,680 Tu vois bien. Ah, c'est le...puits? 281 00:23:23,680 --> 00:23:28,640 'All the water has to be brought up from below the surface. 282 00:23:28,640 --> 00:23:31,520 'This well is some 50 feet deep. 283 00:23:31,520 --> 00:23:36,560 'A camel works the winch and a bag moves water to irrigation channels. 284 00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:41,480 'It's a method as old as the Bible - probably older. 285 00:23:46,320 --> 00:23:48,880 'And it works. 286 00:23:48,880 --> 00:23:52,680 'The fields of Tabelot are rich in onions, carrots, maize and millet, 287 00:23:52,680 --> 00:23:57,720 'whilst trees provide orange, fig, pomegranate and, of course, dates, 288 00:23:57,720 --> 00:24:02,760 'which, when ripe, are wrapped in bags to keep the birds off them.' 289 00:24:02,760 --> 00:24:05,920 Quel est le plus grand? 290 00:24:05,920 --> 00:24:10,520 Le plus grand c'est 20 metres. 20 metres? 60 feet. 60 feet up? 291 00:24:10,520 --> 00:24:13,080 Il monte? Oui. 292 00:24:13,080 --> 00:24:17,560 Crikey. So, he gets up 60 feet to get the dates. Oui. 293 00:24:17,560 --> 00:24:20,040 HE YELLS 294 00:24:23,280 --> 00:24:25,920 And drops his load. 295 00:24:32,080 --> 00:24:35,080 I just... I only wanted three! 296 00:24:35,080 --> 00:24:36,920 Mmm. 297 00:24:36,920 --> 00:24:38,920 Wowee. 298 00:24:41,040 --> 00:24:43,800 Merci. Merci beaucoup. 299 00:24:49,120 --> 00:24:54,360 'Omar's home is in the centre of the village, a mile or so from the well. 300 00:24:54,600 --> 00:24:59,760 'He's taking me to meet his family. They speak only Arabic or Tamahaq, 301 00:25:00,080 --> 00:25:04,920 'the language of the Tuareg, but Omar has better French than me.' 302 00:25:04,920 --> 00:25:09,880 Quatre femmes et... 'He tells me he has four wives and 15 children.' 303 00:25:09,880 --> 00:25:12,720 15 children? Oui. 304 00:25:12,720 --> 00:25:15,840 You are riche. No. 305 00:25:15,840 --> 00:25:21,000 C'est un probleme d'avoir... quatre femmes, pour gagner? Oui... 306 00:25:21,400 --> 00:25:26,480 'Though he smiles easily enough, things are not as rosy as they look. 307 00:25:26,720 --> 00:25:31,960 'It's hard finding money to buy food and medicine for all the children, 308 00:25:32,160 --> 00:25:37,200 'particularly the little ones, who can't work.' C'est un peu dur. Yeah. 309 00:25:37,320 --> 00:25:40,920 Comme il y a des petits enfants. Yeah. 310 00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:45,160 So, it's... C'est pas facile. C'est difficile. 311 00:25:45,160 --> 00:25:48,840 'His wives seem to be of different ages 312 00:25:48,840 --> 00:25:53,720 'and I ask if there are problems with all four under the same roof.' 313 00:25:53,720 --> 00:25:58,920 ..quatre femmes dans le...meme maison. Beaucoup de problemes. 314 00:25:59,200 --> 00:26:03,840 'Yes, he says, there are many problems. They all seem 315 00:26:03,840 --> 00:26:07,520 'to boil down to the same thing - jealousy.' 316 00:26:07,520 --> 00:26:10,200 Jalousie. Jealousy? Oui. 317 00:26:11,560 --> 00:26:14,280 Mais peut-etre, si vous... 318 00:26:14,280 --> 00:26:16,680 Si tu as... 319 00:26:16,680 --> 00:26:21,880 'Wouldn't it be easier, I ask in my impertinent Western way, to have one wife?' 320 00:26:23,280 --> 00:26:28,560 With one woman, it's easy. One wife, pas difficile. 321 00:26:29,760 --> 00:26:34,560 Mais avec quatre femmes, c'est tres difficile. Yeah. Pourquoi...? 322 00:26:34,560 --> 00:26:38,760 'Omar agrees that it would probably be much easier, 323 00:26:38,760 --> 00:26:43,840 'but then, as he puts it, he wants lots of children, so he needs lots of wives.' 324 00:26:45,480 --> 00:26:48,320 You've got a lot of children. Oui. 325 00:26:48,320 --> 00:26:53,200 'I think, in his own way, Omar likes the idea of starting a dynasty.' 326 00:26:56,240 --> 00:26:59,680 LIVELY DRUMMING AND SINGING 327 00:26:59,680 --> 00:27:04,880 The night before the camel train leaves for Bilma, there's a party. 328 00:27:06,920 --> 00:27:12,080 The dancing gets wilder and wilder, as the men strut every step they know to impress the women, 329 00:27:14,800 --> 00:27:18,080 and there's no sitting it out. 330 00:27:34,080 --> 00:27:39,120 The local boys are tireless, happy to raise the sand all night long, 331 00:27:39,360 --> 00:27:44,560 but for us oldies it's time for bed. There's a long, hard journey ahead. 332 00:27:55,920 --> 00:28:01,000 Early morning in Tabelot and the great day of departure has arrived. 333 00:28:01,040 --> 00:28:04,320 With these men and beasts 334 00:28:04,320 --> 00:28:08,000 I'll share the Sahara's most desolate corners. 335 00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:12,400 Est-ce qu'il y a cette...? C'est le chameau? Oui. OK. 336 00:28:13,680 --> 00:28:15,640 Merci. 337 00:28:16,800 --> 00:28:20,200 Got more important things to put on first. 338 00:28:21,520 --> 00:28:24,080 This is straw in here. 339 00:28:24,080 --> 00:28:28,880 I asked him if it's for the camel to eat. He said no, for us. 340 00:28:28,880 --> 00:28:31,520 You don't get much to eat. Sorry. 341 00:28:32,760 --> 00:28:36,280 There are nine chameliers, or cameliers, 342 00:28:36,280 --> 00:28:41,480 in our party, and 30 camels, most of which are of the white, docile type 343 00:28:42,560 --> 00:28:46,560 beloved by the Tuareg of the Air mountains. 344 00:28:46,560 --> 00:28:49,400 CAMEL BELLOWS 345 00:28:49,400 --> 00:28:54,680 'My camel, I note, is neither white nor docile, but brown and stroppy.' 346 00:28:54,880 --> 00:28:56,800 Whoa! 347 00:28:59,400 --> 00:29:04,480 So excited to have my bag on board that he wanted to make off with it. 348 00:29:04,640 --> 00:29:07,400 Il a un nom? Oui. Ekowik. 349 00:29:07,400 --> 00:29:09,920 Kowik? Ekowik. 350 00:29:09,920 --> 00:29:11,960 Kowik. 351 00:29:11,960 --> 00:29:16,000 Kowik, I think, means "he who takes foreigners". 352 00:29:20,960 --> 00:29:23,480 Ekowik. Ekowik. 353 00:29:27,240 --> 00:29:32,240 'We're ready to go. Everything we need must be carried by the camels, 354 00:29:32,240 --> 00:29:35,320 'except fresh food, which walks.' 355 00:29:35,320 --> 00:29:39,600 Well, here we go. Not quite sure about me yet. 356 00:29:39,600 --> 00:29:43,240 CAMEL GRUNTS Come on. 357 00:29:45,080 --> 00:29:49,760 Well, this is it. It's not quite what I expected when I'd... 358 00:29:49,760 --> 00:29:55,000 Camel rides on the beach or once round the pyramid. This is for real. 359 00:29:55,640 --> 00:29:59,320 I've failed already. I got him a few yards. 360 00:30:01,840 --> 00:30:04,600 So we leave Tabelot, 361 00:30:04,600 --> 00:30:09,200 a modest caravan compared to the one which left here in 1922, 362 00:30:09,200 --> 00:30:14,080 observed by one Captain Buchanan, who estimated it at six miles long. 363 00:30:27,920 --> 00:30:30,600 Come on, Ekowik. 364 00:30:46,720 --> 00:30:50,480 It's 350 miles across the desert to Bilma 365 00:30:50,480 --> 00:30:53,320 and I shall be leaving before that 366 00:30:53,320 --> 00:30:57,240 and branching north, towards the Algerian border. 367 00:31:08,560 --> 00:31:12,840 'As we pass out of the mountains, Omar takes me aside 368 00:31:12,840 --> 00:31:16,680 'to show me some of the extraordinary rock art 369 00:31:16,680 --> 00:31:20,440 'that covers this part of the Sahara.' 370 00:31:20,440 --> 00:31:25,680 C'est quel age? Vers six mille. Ah, six mille. 6,000 years. Oui. 371 00:31:26,000 --> 00:31:30,640 6,000 years old! 'Some say they're men from outer space. 372 00:31:30,640 --> 00:31:35,840 'Others say they're ancestors of the Wodaabe, but the animals they depict 373 00:31:36,400 --> 00:31:40,040 'are taken as proof that, not long ago, 374 00:31:40,040 --> 00:31:43,520 'the Sahara was a green and fertile place.' 375 00:31:52,080 --> 00:31:57,280 Since the last ice age ended, the Sahara and its wildlife have borne the brunt of global warming. 376 00:31:59,120 --> 00:32:04,240 Now the camel, introduced from Arabia, has this wilderness almost to itself. 377 00:32:31,480 --> 00:32:36,560 It looks rather pleasant and gentle this pace, ambling through the sand, 378 00:32:36,560 --> 00:32:41,000 but it's very deceptive cos this is really stark desert. 379 00:32:41,000 --> 00:32:46,240 This is killer landscape, because there is no water and no shelter, 380 00:32:46,680 --> 00:32:49,560 so you go slowly to survive 381 00:32:49,560 --> 00:32:54,760 and if you didn't have water or friends around, that would be it within 24 hours. 382 00:33:03,720 --> 00:33:08,880 The camel - or dromedary, as these single-humped animals are known - 383 00:33:09,200 --> 00:33:12,080 is a marvellous desert machine. 384 00:33:12,080 --> 00:33:16,320 Their weight is so finely balanced, they leave barely a mark. 385 00:33:16,320 --> 00:33:21,040 Provided they can graze, they can last two weeks without water 386 00:33:21,040 --> 00:33:26,040 and they can carry loads of up to 500 pounds over enormous distances. 387 00:33:27,080 --> 00:33:30,760 Camels changed the history of the Sahara. 388 00:33:30,760 --> 00:33:35,920 Without them, 2,000 years of trade, war, expansion and exploration would never have happened. 389 00:33:40,600 --> 00:33:43,560 It's getting now to midday, 390 00:33:43,560 --> 00:33:47,120 the peak of heat. We're seeking a tree. 391 00:33:47,120 --> 00:33:51,080 You just have to keep drinking lots of water. 392 00:33:51,080 --> 00:33:56,000 The other thing which is nice about it is the camels dictate the pace 393 00:33:56,000 --> 00:33:58,600 but also the mood. 394 00:33:58,600 --> 00:34:02,640 It's the sort of continuous, unchanging rhythm, 395 00:34:02,640 --> 00:34:06,720 which is the way, I think, you survive this. 396 00:34:06,720 --> 00:34:10,560 Stopping and starting is more difficult. 397 00:34:10,560 --> 00:34:15,800 You've got to have shelter and all that, but camels just move on and become very reassuring presences. 398 00:34:17,440 --> 00:34:20,280 You don't want to be patted. 399 00:34:20,280 --> 00:34:22,440 But... 400 00:34:22,440 --> 00:34:26,000 I mean, there are good things about it. 401 00:34:26,000 --> 00:34:31,040 There are no flies. You don't get bitten by anything. There's no... 402 00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:35,560 undergrowth to catch your clothing on or get jabbed by, 403 00:34:35,560 --> 00:34:39,440 but...there's very little scope for action. 404 00:34:39,440 --> 00:34:44,600 More scope for imagination, so you think a lot...like why did I suggest doing this in the first place? 405 00:34:46,320 --> 00:34:48,040 Just a joke. 406 00:34:49,520 --> 00:34:52,120 Oh, a tree! Un arbre. 407 00:34:52,120 --> 00:34:54,840 Omar... Oui. ..un arbre. 408 00:34:54,840 --> 00:34:57,880 Un arbre pour nous? Chez nous? Oui. 409 00:34:57,880 --> 00:34:59,080 Hurrah! 410 00:35:01,560 --> 00:35:05,040 This is where we're going to stop next. 411 00:35:05,040 --> 00:35:07,640 It's two-star, 412 00:35:07,640 --> 00:35:10,640 so, basically, no swimming pool. 413 00:35:10,640 --> 00:35:13,120 No room service. 414 00:35:13,120 --> 00:35:16,080 No roof, no stairs... 415 00:35:16,080 --> 00:35:20,000 no rooms, actually, but it sounds jolly good. 416 00:35:22,720 --> 00:35:25,440 How much is in the water? 417 00:35:34,040 --> 00:35:36,080 Merci. 418 00:35:42,120 --> 00:35:44,400 Merci, Omar. 419 00:35:44,400 --> 00:35:46,880 HE LAUGHS 420 00:35:51,000 --> 00:35:55,480 Lovely the way they go down, sort of fold up, like... 421 00:35:55,480 --> 00:35:58,200 collapsible tables. 422 00:36:17,720 --> 00:36:21,360 This is what they eat off the acacia tree, 423 00:36:21,360 --> 00:36:24,200 but to get at the greenery 424 00:36:24,200 --> 00:36:27,960 there are these amazingly long, sharp thorns. 425 00:36:27,960 --> 00:36:31,560 A couple of inches long. Incredibly sharp. 426 00:36:31,560 --> 00:36:36,680 They just sort of chomp that off. I wonder what goes on in their mouths 427 00:36:36,800 --> 00:36:39,880 between the tongue and the gullet. 428 00:36:39,880 --> 00:36:43,680 I wouldn't eat this... even in a sandwich. 429 00:36:43,680 --> 00:36:46,480 Well, possibly in a sandwich. 430 00:36:46,480 --> 00:36:49,160 I'd eat anything at the moment. 431 00:36:56,760 --> 00:36:59,760 MICHAEL HUMS 432 00:37:06,880 --> 00:37:08,480 OK. 433 00:37:11,320 --> 00:37:13,560 C'est bon. 434 00:37:23,920 --> 00:37:28,200 The midday temperatures peak at around 56 Celsius 435 00:37:28,200 --> 00:37:33,200 and only in late afternoon, when the day cools off, is it safe to leave. 436 00:37:39,000 --> 00:37:41,840 The heat dictates everything. 437 00:37:41,840 --> 00:37:45,880 Because of it, Omar and his men sometimes leave at 4am, 438 00:37:45,880 --> 00:37:49,880 but they still aim to walk 14 or 15 hours a day. 439 00:37:51,320 --> 00:37:53,760 Woohoooo! 440 00:37:54,840 --> 00:37:57,880 I don't know about the camels, 441 00:37:57,880 --> 00:38:01,920 but I find walking on this soft sand the most tiring. 442 00:38:01,920 --> 00:38:06,640 Izambar Mohammed, the camel singer, watches out for flagging spirits. 443 00:38:06,640 --> 00:38:09,200 SHARP CRY 444 00:38:11,440 --> 00:38:15,320 SINGING The tree you see over there... 445 00:38:16,960 --> 00:38:22,000 Your expectations become so low that one tree becomes a luxury object. 446 00:38:22,240 --> 00:38:26,680 You can understand what an oasis means to these people. 447 00:38:26,680 --> 00:38:29,720 Everything's just pared down. 448 00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:35,640 Very minimal expectations. 449 00:38:41,320 --> 00:38:44,360 SINGING CONTINUES 450 00:39:20,000 --> 00:39:25,160 The main social event of the day is the evening meal - usually bread, dates and cheese, buttonight, 451 00:39:27,400 --> 00:39:30,640 in my honour, there'll be a stew. 452 00:39:30,640 --> 00:39:33,520 Everyone has a job to do. 453 00:39:33,520 --> 00:39:36,560 Omar and Izambar kill the sheep, 454 00:39:36,560 --> 00:39:39,600 Osman bakes bread in a sand oven 455 00:39:39,600 --> 00:39:43,760 and Moussa plaits twine to secure the camel loads. 456 00:39:43,760 --> 00:39:46,320 I'm still recovering. 457 00:39:52,240 --> 00:39:56,680 There's nowhere to sit. That's what I really miss most. 458 00:39:56,680 --> 00:40:01,560 I'm sitting here, but this is their bedding and the animals' food, 459 00:40:01,560 --> 00:40:04,520 so I can't really sit here for long. 460 00:40:04,520 --> 00:40:07,320 They don't believe in chairs. 461 00:40:07,320 --> 00:40:12,520 After a long walk, it'd be nice to just flop down on a chaise longue. 462 00:40:12,960 --> 00:40:16,960 That's what I'd bring if I had a camel train. 463 00:40:16,960 --> 00:40:19,640 Camels stacked with chairs! 464 00:40:19,640 --> 00:40:22,440 Reading lamps and a television. 465 00:40:22,440 --> 00:40:25,320 Possibly a small bar and a fridge. 466 00:40:25,320 --> 00:40:29,360 Front door bell, stairs and maybe a couple of friends. 467 00:40:30,800 --> 00:40:33,880 THEY SPEAK IN DIALECT 468 00:41:18,040 --> 00:41:22,760 It's something thick and coarse and heavy and rather unappetising. 469 00:41:22,760 --> 00:41:25,800 Taguella. Togella. 470 00:41:25,800 --> 00:41:28,760 Taguella. Togella. Taguella. 471 00:41:28,760 --> 00:41:32,000 Taguella. Ca, c'est le taguella. 472 00:41:32,000 --> 00:41:35,040 Tagilla. Taguella. Taguella. 473 00:41:35,040 --> 00:41:37,240 Nice. 474 00:41:37,240 --> 00:41:40,200 It's more like cake, really. 475 00:41:40,200 --> 00:41:44,320 Like a big chunk of cake we used to have at school. 476 00:41:44,320 --> 00:41:46,600 Mmm. 477 00:41:46,600 --> 00:41:50,640 Nice hard, crispy outside. Very good. 478 00:41:50,640 --> 00:41:53,280 Taguella. Taguella! 479 00:41:53,280 --> 00:41:56,120 You have to get the emphasis right. 480 00:41:56,120 --> 00:41:59,400 Ta-GUE-lla probably means buttock. 481 00:41:59,400 --> 00:42:02,480 Taguell-A means this lovely cake. 482 00:42:13,400 --> 00:42:16,320 You're a great audience. Thank you. 483 00:42:16,320 --> 00:42:20,400 I think I'm wrong here, another breach of etiquette, 484 00:42:20,400 --> 00:42:24,360 because they seem to be breaking up the...taguella? 485 00:42:24,360 --> 00:42:29,440 ..into the bowl here, so I suppose they're going to put sauce on it, 486 00:42:29,440 --> 00:42:34,040 but you're popping a bit in your mouth too, so I'll do that. 487 00:42:34,040 --> 00:42:37,080 Un peu tageulla. Un peu taduella. 488 00:42:37,080 --> 00:42:39,880 Un peu taduella. 489 00:42:39,880 --> 00:42:43,120 Taguella. Taguella. Taguella. 490 00:42:43,120 --> 00:42:47,080 They're probably teaching me all the wrong words. 491 00:42:48,320 --> 00:42:51,160 Probably saying... 492 00:42:51,160 --> 00:42:54,640 THEY SPEAK AMONGST THEMSELVES 493 00:42:57,840 --> 00:43:00,480 Taguella. Taguella. 494 00:43:00,480 --> 00:43:02,480 Taguella. 495 00:43:05,080 --> 00:43:09,000 It's a minimalist joke, but it's going very well. 496 00:43:09,000 --> 00:43:11,680 Ah, this looks like the... 497 00:43:12,760 --> 00:43:15,080 ..the meat. 498 00:43:18,640 --> 00:43:23,920 It's an odd feeling to be eating one of the three creatures I've got to know quite well as wewalk along. 499 00:43:25,720 --> 00:43:30,640 The camels are up there and the sheep and the goat are rather sweet 500 00:43:30,640 --> 00:43:35,800 and they get kicked about and no-one seems to care about them. I rather identified with them... 501 00:43:37,480 --> 00:43:41,560 and one has now been dispatched, and the others... 502 00:43:41,560 --> 00:43:46,520 It's swinging on the bush and the other two are looking around... 503 00:43:46,520 --> 00:43:49,440 "I wonder what happened to Bert." 504 00:43:49,440 --> 00:43:52,360 They don't seem too concerned. 505 00:43:52,360 --> 00:43:56,080 He laid down his life for a good cause. 506 00:43:56,080 --> 00:44:01,240 This is a banquet for Tuaregs, because they rarely have meat on a long journey. They have couscous. 507 00:44:03,000 --> 00:44:07,960 There'll be a lot of sand in it, especially with the wind blowing. 508 00:44:09,960 --> 00:44:13,000 Tagine. Izzot. Oh. 509 00:44:13,000 --> 00:44:16,040 For me? Oui. Thank you. 510 00:44:17,480 --> 00:44:20,120 THEY LAUGH 511 00:44:31,040 --> 00:44:33,560 Izzot. Izzot. 512 00:44:33,560 --> 00:44:36,360 Is very hot, but it's good. 513 00:44:38,280 --> 00:44:39,560 This is lovely. 514 00:44:41,120 --> 00:44:42,840 Mmm. 515 00:44:42,840 --> 00:44:45,280 Izzot. Izzot. Izzot. 516 00:44:45,280 --> 00:44:47,760 Very good. 517 00:44:56,760 --> 00:44:59,720 CAMEL BELLOWS 518 00:45:10,720 --> 00:45:15,000 It's much more sensible than any hat you could buy, 519 00:45:15,000 --> 00:45:18,240 because...it's really cool. 520 00:45:18,240 --> 00:45:23,240 You have to tie it quite securely, because all the walking loosens it, 521 00:45:23,240 --> 00:45:26,120 but it's cool and it keeps dust off, 522 00:45:26,120 --> 00:45:31,040 so you can put it right over, can't you? Up way. Sorry. My dresser. 523 00:45:31,040 --> 00:45:34,000 And general looker-after. 524 00:45:46,320 --> 00:45:51,120 I'd like to be able to see out of it and not walk into a camel. 525 00:45:51,120 --> 00:45:53,840 Brilliant. And this can go up... 526 00:45:57,080 --> 00:45:59,400 Voila. 527 00:46:00,680 --> 00:46:03,520 Et tu fais ca. Thank you. 528 00:46:03,520 --> 00:46:05,520 Merci. 529 00:46:07,400 --> 00:46:11,360 HE LAUGHS There - ready for the route. 530 00:46:11,360 --> 00:46:14,480 Dust...and it's very, very cool. 531 00:46:14,480 --> 00:46:17,760 It's excellent, isn't it? Merci. 532 00:46:17,760 --> 00:46:20,520 CAMEL MOANS 533 00:46:29,560 --> 00:46:33,680 One thing I've got rather used to about the camels 534 00:46:33,680 --> 00:46:38,880 is the strange rumblings that go around the camp whenever they're being loaded up or put down. 535 00:46:40,480 --> 00:46:44,680 You can hear one now, and it's almost like a language 536 00:46:44,680 --> 00:46:49,440 and I'm not quite sure what it is - is it anger, is it protest 537 00:46:49,440 --> 00:46:52,280 or just, "Here we go again"? 538 00:46:52,280 --> 00:46:55,120 But they make their presence felt. 539 00:46:55,120 --> 00:46:59,960 "We're not meant to do this. We're not meant to be beasts of burden." 540 00:47:02,640 --> 00:47:06,640 I shall develop a noise of my own to go with it. 541 00:47:06,640 --> 00:47:09,200 Nyyyiip! Nyyoooiii! 542 00:47:09,200 --> 00:47:12,960 LAUGHTER Good. It works. 543 00:47:33,600 --> 00:47:38,800 We're now into what my French guidebook calls "desert absolut" - absolute desert. 544 00:47:40,440 --> 00:47:45,400 The earth stripped clean, as bare as a glacier, featureless as the sea. 545 00:47:45,400 --> 00:47:50,560 The outside world is SO far away as to be almost irrelevant. 546 00:47:51,000 --> 00:47:56,240 I can understand why so many religions were born in the desert. 547 00:47:56,880 --> 00:48:01,080 The outside is SO hostile, you have to look inside. 548 00:48:13,960 --> 00:48:18,880 Just as I begin to achieve spiritual harmony with this great emptiness, 549 00:48:19,120 --> 00:48:24,320 I'm reminded that in this century the outside world is always closer than you think. We're not alone. 550 00:48:26,520 --> 00:48:29,560 MOTOR HUMS 551 00:48:46,640 --> 00:48:50,080 A French paraglider swoops down over us, 552 00:48:50,080 --> 00:48:53,040 a video camera at the ready. 553 00:48:53,040 --> 00:48:58,200 I feel he's intruding on our space, but deep down I'm probably jealous. 554 00:48:58,640 --> 00:49:03,880 You've been to many deserts in the world. Do you have a favourite, one place that you find mostrewarding? 555 00:49:05,840 --> 00:49:10,240 I've been, yes, to different place. I like this one, 556 00:49:10,240 --> 00:49:15,440 because the Sahara, there is an authentic life here, still alive. 557 00:49:16,280 --> 00:49:19,160 Well, it's a great machine. 558 00:49:19,160 --> 00:49:24,440 Can you do some work with us? Get up in the air and we'll have our boys here. 559 00:49:25,600 --> 00:49:28,240 Is it OK to have another camera? 560 00:49:29,720 --> 00:49:31,960 Oh, sorry. 561 00:49:31,960 --> 00:49:35,360 A few sweeties and he'd be all right. 562 00:50:28,840 --> 00:50:33,080 This might be just a streak of Yorkshire puritanism, 563 00:50:33,080 --> 00:50:37,960 but I don't want the Sahara to become an adventure playground 564 00:50:37,960 --> 00:50:43,000 and after the excitement I'm glad to be back with people who live here. 565 00:51:12,920 --> 00:51:17,680 Phew! It seems a bit bizarre having a fire in the Sahara 566 00:51:17,680 --> 00:51:22,240 after it's been 132 degrees Fahrenheit this afternoon, 567 00:51:22,240 --> 00:51:25,080 56 centigrade, 568 00:51:25,080 --> 00:51:28,160 but it gets quite cold at night. 569 00:51:28,160 --> 00:51:33,120 It goes down to about, well... It can get as low as the high 80s. 570 00:51:34,640 --> 00:51:38,840 You know, sort of 40 degrees, 38 degrees at night 571 00:51:38,840 --> 00:51:41,960 and oddly enough it seems cold. 572 00:51:41,960 --> 00:51:47,000 Anyway, it's just nice to have a fire. Very friendly, companionable. 573 00:51:47,000 --> 00:51:52,120 I can make my joke about...izzot! Izzot. You see, it goes down a bomb. 574 00:51:52,440 --> 00:51:54,920 Izzot. Izzot... 575 00:52:16,240 --> 00:52:19,040 Oh, pour moi? Merci, merci. 576 00:52:19,040 --> 00:52:22,960 Si tu veux... This is a bit of the cheese, yeah. 577 00:52:22,960 --> 00:52:25,000 Mmm. 578 00:52:27,600 --> 00:52:30,720 Takuma. Guma. Takuma. 579 00:52:30,720 --> 00:52:35,560 You're going to teach me another word, aren't you? Takuma. 580 00:52:35,560 --> 00:52:38,080 Takuma. Al fatur. 581 00:52:38,080 --> 00:52:40,880 Hm? Al fatur. Al fatur. 582 00:52:40,880 --> 00:52:43,840 THEY LAUGH Shay. Shay. 583 00:52:43,840 --> 00:52:46,760 You're teaching me rude words... 584 00:52:46,760 --> 00:52:49,600 THEY LAUGH 585 00:52:51,080 --> 00:52:54,080 Ah, these little Tuareg soirees! 586 00:52:58,480 --> 00:53:01,480 The cheese is nice. Very nice. 587 00:53:01,480 --> 00:53:03,480 Cheers. 588 00:53:03,480 --> 00:53:06,320 En anglais, nous disons "Cheers!" 589 00:53:06,320 --> 00:53:08,840 Cheers! Down the hatch. 590 00:53:09,880 --> 00:53:12,520 Bottoms up. 591 00:53:12,520 --> 00:53:17,000 THEY SPEAK IN DIALECT Bottoms up. Bottom... 592 00:53:17,000 --> 00:53:19,960 Bottom. Bottom. Bottoms. Bottoms. 593 00:53:19,960 --> 00:53:22,800 Up. Up. Yeah, great! 594 00:53:22,800 --> 00:53:26,840 Bottoms up. Bottoms up. Bottoms up. Bottoms up. 595 00:53:26,840 --> 00:53:30,560 THEY LAUGH Izzot! 596 00:53:32,600 --> 00:53:35,080 Ah, very good. 597 00:53:35,080 --> 00:53:37,800 Bottoms up. Bottoms up. 598 00:53:39,320 --> 00:53:42,400 Shay. Shay. Izzot. Izzot. 599 00:53:42,400 --> 00:53:44,960 Al fatur. Al fatur. 600 00:53:44,960 --> 00:53:48,680 THEY LAUGH Takuma. Takuma. 601 00:53:52,320 --> 00:53:54,560 Takuma. 602 00:53:55,920 --> 00:53:58,920 Takuma. Oh, not again. Takuma. 603 00:53:58,920 --> 00:54:01,240 Al fatur. Al fatur. 604 00:54:01,240 --> 00:54:03,520 Shay. Shay. 605 00:54:03,520 --> 00:54:05,760 Izzot. Izzot! 606 00:54:07,320 --> 00:54:10,120 Bottoms up. Bottoms up. 607 00:54:10,120 --> 00:54:13,000 God bless Her Majesty. 608 00:54:13,000 --> 00:54:15,720 THEY CHUCKLE 609 00:54:16,720 --> 00:54:19,360 Bottoms up. Bottoms up. 610 00:54:53,880 --> 00:54:57,560 Omar helps me load up for the last time. 611 00:54:57,560 --> 00:55:02,640 Today our ways will part and already they've someone new to look after. 612 00:55:08,320 --> 00:55:13,400 This gazelle was found abandoned by its mother at the campsite 613 00:55:13,400 --> 00:55:17,120 and they're going to keep it as a pet. 614 00:55:17,120 --> 00:55:20,080 This is not one for the pot. 615 00:55:20,080 --> 00:55:24,240 There are gazelles in the Sahara desert. It's amazing. 616 00:55:24,240 --> 00:55:28,520 I know there are camels and lots of smaller animals, 617 00:55:28,520 --> 00:55:32,880 but there are gazelles roaming in the depths of the desert 618 00:55:32,880 --> 00:55:36,560 and this one, I think, will hopefully survive. 619 00:55:36,560 --> 00:55:38,960 It's got amazing ears. 620 00:55:40,600 --> 00:55:42,800 Yes... 621 00:55:44,400 --> 00:55:47,360 We'll look after you, won't we? 622 00:55:58,680 --> 00:56:01,560 It's always the way, isn't it? 623 00:56:01,560 --> 00:56:05,920 Just as I'm learning how to cope, it's time to move on. 624 00:56:05,920 --> 00:56:09,480 I shall miss all this - the regular rhythm, 625 00:56:09,480 --> 00:56:13,320 the reassuring pattern of life on the move. 626 00:56:13,320 --> 00:56:18,200 I shall miss Omar and Izambar and all the team who've looked after me. 627 00:56:18,200 --> 00:56:22,400 Even Ekowik and the camels, though they won't miss me. 628 00:56:22,400 --> 00:56:26,680 I've learnt a lot - maybe not enough to start a religion, 629 00:56:26,680 --> 00:56:29,800 but a clearer view of basic truths. 630 00:56:29,800 --> 00:56:34,440 If you don't respect your environment, you die. It's simple. 631 00:56:40,160 --> 00:56:44,720 'Omar will doubtless be delighted to see the back of us. 632 00:56:44,720 --> 00:56:49,880 'He can get back to the business of bringing the salt back from Bilma.' 633 00:56:50,200 --> 00:56:52,280 Au revoir. 634 00:56:52,280 --> 00:56:55,160 Merci. Merci, Omar, pour tout. 635 00:56:55,160 --> 00:56:57,600 Bon voyage. 636 00:56:58,800 --> 00:57:01,440 Bye. Merci, merci. 637 00:57:01,440 --> 00:57:05,840 Merci. Merci. Merci pour tout. Merci pour tout. 638 00:57:05,840 --> 00:57:09,560 Heeey! You like that shirt, don't you? 639 00:57:09,560 --> 00:57:11,800 Oh! OK. 640 00:57:11,800 --> 00:57:14,720 Bon voyage. Au revoir. Merci. 641 00:57:16,480 --> 00:57:18,880 Ah! Bottoms up. 642 00:57:18,880 --> 00:57:22,000 HE PRETENDS TO CRY 643 00:57:22,000 --> 00:57:26,320 He's going to win the Oscar for this, isn't he? 644 00:57:26,320 --> 00:57:29,320 Stop it! It's my show! 645 00:57:29,320 --> 00:57:31,280 OK... 646 00:57:31,280 --> 00:57:34,160 Il vient avec moi. 647 00:57:34,160 --> 00:57:37,240 Oui, il vient avec moi. 648 00:57:37,240 --> 00:57:40,880 Merci, Omar. Merci. Tres, tres bon. Bon voyage. 649 00:57:40,880 --> 00:57:43,880 OK! Now, then, which way? 650 00:57:45,320 --> 00:57:47,600 Takuma. 651 00:57:47,600 --> 00:57:49,600 Photograph. 652 00:57:49,600 --> 00:57:52,040 Bottom up. Bottom up. 653 00:57:52,040 --> 00:57:55,560 Bottom up. Bottom up. Takuma. Izzot! Izzot! 654 00:57:55,560 --> 00:57:58,560 THEY SHOUT OUT WORDS 655 00:58:09,280 --> 00:58:11,480 Au revoir. 656 00:58:33,120 --> 00:58:36,280 Right, let me see - Algeria. 657 00:58:36,280 --> 00:58:41,360 Over the mountain, past the oasis, down the gorge, left at the volcano. 658 00:58:41,680 --> 00:58:44,680 Should be there by Tuesday week. 55303

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