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High above the clouds...
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..there are lost worlds.
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00:00:17,520 --> 00:00:18,480
Unexplored...
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00:00:24,200 --> 00:00:25,280
..unforgiving...
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00:00:28,240 --> 00:00:29,680
..wildly unpredictable.
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00:00:34,560 --> 00:00:39,000
But on the great mountain ranges of
our planet, life does exist.
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Against all odds,
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a few extraordinary animals
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and remarkable people
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00:00:50,960 --> 00:00:54,480
make their home in the highest
places on Earth.
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WIND WHISTLES
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00:01:16,600 --> 00:01:18,080
In the Rocky Mountains,
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you can sit all day and watch the
world go by...
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00:01:23,480 --> 00:01:24,960
..without seeing a soul.
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00:01:28,240 --> 00:01:31,240
Slap bang in the middle
of busy North America...
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..for as far as the eye can see,
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00:01:37,200 --> 00:01:38,560
it's just wilderness.
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In the Rockies, the weather can
change on a dime.
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It can shift from scorching
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to Arctic in a few hours.
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00:01:56,000 --> 00:01:58,040
To make it here,
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00:01:58,040 --> 00:01:59,880
it's vital to know
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when to act
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and when to wait.
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00:02:07,800 --> 00:02:11,680
In the Rockies, it's all about
picking that perfect...
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..moment.
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The Rockies are
the spine of North America.
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They rise up in the South West,
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travel north through Colorado,
Wyoming,
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00:02:33,600 --> 00:02:37,840
Idaho, Montana, and up into Canada,
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to the edge of the frozen Yukon.
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The Rockies are 3,000 miles long.
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Five times the length of Britain.
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There's so many mountains,
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many don't even have names.
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This is a world of unknown peaks
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and hidden valleys.
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The last great sanctuary of the
iconic animals of North America.
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00:03:17,040 --> 00:03:18,880
Buffalo still roam free...
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..and grizzlies raise their young.
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00:03:36,160 --> 00:03:37,160
It's winter.
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Minus ten.
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The days are short.
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But before the animals go into
lockdown,
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one event is about to stir
the Rockies.
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It's all down to Bighorn sheep.
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Normally docile, but today,
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a scent is in the air.
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And it's turning the males into
warriors.
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00:04:12,360 --> 00:04:15,280
It's the most important moment in
their year.
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All the males are picking up
the scent...
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..drawing it up
into the roof of their mouths.
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Analysing the smell.
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The females produce this particular
perfume only when they're in heat.
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Each female is fertile
for just two days.
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Not a chance a red-blooded ram
wants to miss.
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But to get to mate, they first have
to fight the other males.
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It begins
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00:05:05,480 --> 00:05:07,240
with pushing and shoving...
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00:05:11,200 --> 00:05:13,760
..but quickly goes below the belt.
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00:05:18,960 --> 00:05:21,880
Goading each other,
seeing who's strongest...
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..who's up for it.
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00:05:29,280 --> 00:05:31,600
And then the fight is on.
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This is their one chance.
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They've got to take it.
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The horns can weigh 30 pounds.
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As much as the rest of their bones.
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It's the biggest rumble
in the Rockies.
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It echoes for miles around the
mountains.
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Clashing horns with eight times the
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force that would fracture
a human skull.
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Other creatures would get
brain damage.
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00:06:27,640 --> 00:06:31,280
But Bighorns have double-thickness
skulls to soak up the shock.
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The losers
are left with a sore head.
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00:06:49,360 --> 00:06:52,560
They'll have to wait a whole year
for another shot at mating.
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The victors get the females.
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00:06:58,080 --> 00:07:00,800
They've seized their chance,
and won.
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00:07:02,560 --> 00:07:04,880
And choosing that perfect moment
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00:07:04,880 --> 00:07:08,320
is the secret to success
throughout the Rockies.
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00:07:11,520 --> 00:07:14,000
And that's for one simple reason -
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00:07:14,000 --> 00:07:17,000
the weather here
is more changeable than
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any of the other great mountain
ranges.
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00:07:20,040 --> 00:07:22,520
The greatest daily temperature
swing in the world
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was recorded in the Rockies,
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00:07:24,320 --> 00:07:28,720
dropping 56 degrees Centigrade
from one day to the next.
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00:07:30,400 --> 00:07:32,880
But the seasonal swing
is even bigger.
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00:07:35,040 --> 00:07:37,600
The summers are scorching and dry.
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00:07:38,720 --> 00:07:42,400
Every year,
700,000 acres go up in smoke.
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00:07:43,360 --> 00:07:45,800
Temperatures soar to 40 degrees.
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00:07:53,800 --> 00:07:57,680
But in the winter, avalanches rip
down at 80mph.
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00:08:00,400 --> 00:08:02,760
There's 100,000 every year.
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00:08:06,520 --> 00:08:08,880
Temperatures plummet to minus 40 -
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cold enough to freeze the mercury
in a thermometer.
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00:08:19,160 --> 00:08:22,320
By midwinter,
the world is frozen solid.
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00:08:22,320 --> 00:08:25,280
WIND WHISTLES
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00:08:33,120 --> 00:08:35,640
BIRD CALLS
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Diamond dust.
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00:08:41,520 --> 00:08:43,680
Ice crystallised by the frozen air.
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00:08:45,880 --> 00:08:47,480
Winter can be beautiful.
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But brutal.
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00:08:51,600 --> 00:08:53,920
Winds reach 200mph.
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ANIMALS GRUNT
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00:08:58,880 --> 00:09:00,720
It can snow six feet in a day.
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00:09:04,440 --> 00:09:08,600
For most, winter is a time
of hardship and suffering.
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00:09:12,680 --> 00:09:16,640
But here in the far north
of the Rockies,
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00:09:16,640 --> 00:09:19,440
it's the perfect moment
for one creature.
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The Wolverine.
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00:09:28,800 --> 00:09:32,520
Most people spend a lifetime here
and never even glimpse one.
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00:09:35,320 --> 00:09:38,920
He feeds on the frozen bodies of
animals killed by winter...
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00:09:43,840 --> 00:09:45,920
..and preserved in nature's freezer.
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00:09:48,920 --> 00:09:51,920
His nose can detect food
buried 20 feet deep.
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00:09:55,240 --> 00:09:58,440
Other animals follow him around
hoping to steal a meal.
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00:10:05,600 --> 00:10:08,040
But carcasses
are few and far between.
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Each day, he must scour
the mountains for scraps.
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Determination pays off.
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The frozen remains
are as hard as iron,
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but specially adapted teeth
tear them open.
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Ravens sound the dinner bell.
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And it brings the mountains' top
predator.
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HOWLING
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The Wolverine has to act fast.
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A hungry wolf pack could kill him.
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00:11:17,960 --> 00:11:21,280
It doesn't take long
for wolves to devour a carcass.
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He melts back into the wilderness,
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always searching for another chance.
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Seizing the moment is crucial for
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all creatures that live in the
Rockies.
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00:11:58,280 --> 00:12:01,720
And that's especially true
of one unique animal.
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00:12:06,480 --> 00:12:08,280
The mountains call us,
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00:12:08,280 --> 00:12:11,920
but we're not built to live above
the clouds.
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00:12:11,920 --> 00:12:15,960
We, most of all, must gauge
the conditions perfectly.
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00:12:17,720 --> 00:12:20,680
For those with the courage
and the judgment,
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the prize is the freedom
of these mountains.
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00:12:33,680 --> 00:12:38,080
For some, the draw of the Rockies
is so strong
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00:12:38,080 --> 00:12:41,360
they need to go further and higher.
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00:12:48,720 --> 00:12:51,320
I mean, ALL mountains have
a moodiness to them,
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have a personality.
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But the Rockies, the Rockies might
take the cake.
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00:12:59,160 --> 00:13:03,520
Hillary O'Neil is a professional
mountaineer and skier.
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00:13:03,520 --> 00:13:06,680
She's climbed Everest
and led expeditions
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00:13:06,680 --> 00:13:10,000
to mountains around the world
for 15 years.
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00:13:10,000 --> 00:13:12,680
But her home is Colorado,
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00:13:12,680 --> 00:13:14,920
in the southern Rockies.
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It's not for the beginner, they're
steep mountains, they're rugged.
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It keeps you on your toes.
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I think I could spend
ten lifetimes here
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00:13:27,120 --> 00:13:29,600
There's one mountain in particular
she wants to climb.
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And now, in late winter,
it's the perfect moment.
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Mount Sneffels.
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The highest peak for miles.
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At 4,300 metres high,
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the air's 40% thinner
than at sea level.
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And the winds can blow
over 100mph.
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She's set herself a task
to climb it,
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00:14:04,120 --> 00:14:07,720
and then, for the very first time,
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00:14:07,720 --> 00:14:10,920
she will ski down the treacherous
north side,
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down a steep gully called The Snake.
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00:14:18,880 --> 00:14:21,440
I mean, there's, you know,
lots of catchphrases
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about the Rocky Mountains.
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And the one that always kind of
sticks in my head is, you know,
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"If you don't like the weather, wait
five minutes and it'll change."
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00:14:30,560 --> 00:14:33,280
For me, it makes me want to go out
in the mountains every day,
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00:14:33,280 --> 00:14:36,280
because I think it's going to be
different every day. And sometimes,
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sometimes I think the mountains
around here
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are warm and welcoming,
and other times you're like,
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"God, I just hope they let me go
and let me out of their grasp,
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"and I can go home!"
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It's a long slog to the summit.
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With the air getting thinner.
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And the snow getting deeper.
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I often feel threatened
when I'm up here.
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I think it's a good thing to feel
fear cos that means you're pushing
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yourself a little bit.
And that makes you feel alive
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and, yeah,
I would take that any day.
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There's no time to stop
at the summit.
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She quickly abseils down
to the start of the gully.
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00:15:38,080 --> 00:15:39,960
Every minute,
the wind is picking up.
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There's no time to waste.
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SHE PANTS
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These mountain gullies act
as funnels for avalanches.
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00:16:19,120 --> 00:16:20,520
As she approaches the bottleneck...
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..the snow is getting more and more
unstable.
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00:16:27,920 --> 00:16:29,240
Oh...
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Woo!
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00:16:50,400 --> 00:16:52,800
The hard work done,
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now she can claim her prize.
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00:17:16,560 --> 00:17:19,440
When I go and do something new
in these mountains,
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it feels pioneering,
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00:17:21,480 --> 00:17:23,720
in a modern way.
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00:17:23,720 --> 00:17:27,400
And I think that is
a lot of the spirit of the people
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00:17:27,400 --> 00:17:29,360
that still live
around these mountains.
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00:17:41,000 --> 00:17:43,600
The Rockies have always attracted
pioneers.
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00:17:46,440 --> 00:17:49,080
Thousands flocked here in the 1800s.
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00:17:51,960 --> 00:17:53,320
Some made fortunes.
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00:17:55,200 --> 00:17:56,960
For others, the timing was wrong.
196
00:18:00,280 --> 00:18:02,520
Mining towns,
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00:18:02,520 --> 00:18:05,320
abandoned after the gold and silver
ran out.
198
00:18:11,360 --> 00:18:15,920
Farmers were also lured west
with the promise of cheap land.
199
00:18:20,800 --> 00:18:22,960
Early March,
200
00:18:22,960 --> 00:18:27,880
and the last snow of winter falls
on an abandoned ranch in Montana.
201
00:18:27,880 --> 00:18:30,120
The home, reclaimed by nature.
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00:18:35,960 --> 00:18:37,560
Mule deer.
203
00:18:37,560 --> 00:18:42,240
They have been forced down from the
mountains in search of grass to eat.
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00:18:42,240 --> 00:18:43,400
But they're nervous.
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00:18:44,680 --> 00:18:47,440
And rightly so.
206
00:18:47,440 --> 00:18:50,000
Something here is very wrong.
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00:18:55,440 --> 00:18:58,560
Each barn is littered with corpses
of other deer.
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00:19:00,800 --> 00:19:02,640
A predator is close by.
209
00:19:07,440 --> 00:19:09,600
Magpies feed on the latest victim.
210
00:19:12,200 --> 00:19:15,440
But the mule deer have
a terrible choice.
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00:19:15,440 --> 00:19:17,840
If they go back to the mountains,
they'll starve.
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00:19:19,120 --> 00:19:21,440
If they stay here,
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00:19:21,440 --> 00:19:23,240
the predator may get them.
214
00:19:26,600 --> 00:19:28,640
During the daylight, they're safe.
215
00:19:33,080 --> 00:19:34,520
But as night falls...
216
00:19:37,560 --> 00:19:40,760
..the ranch becomes the realm
of the phantom killer.
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00:19:44,880 --> 00:19:46,920
Under the cloak of darkness,
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00:19:46,920 --> 00:19:50,320
catching sight of this silent killer
is almost impossible.
219
00:20:10,080 --> 00:20:14,680
In some Native American myths, this
is a creature of the underworld.
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00:20:16,320 --> 00:20:18,120
A harbinger of death.
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00:20:26,920 --> 00:20:28,000
The mountain lion.
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00:20:30,200 --> 00:20:33,840
Secretive, silent, and smart.
223
00:20:36,400 --> 00:20:39,360
She uses these buildings
to hide her kills
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00:20:39,360 --> 00:20:42,680
from the prying eyes
of other animals,
225
00:20:42,680 --> 00:20:45,680
so she can feed unnoticed,
undisturbed.
226
00:20:48,280 --> 00:20:52,120
The mountain lion is the top
ambush predator in the Rockies.
227
00:20:54,400 --> 00:20:57,640
Powerful back legs for
lightning-fast leaps,
228
00:20:57,640 --> 00:21:00,160
huge front feet for catching prey
229
00:21:00,160 --> 00:21:02,760
and a long, heavy tail for balance.
230
00:21:07,600 --> 00:21:10,760
With a full stomach,
she slips into the dark.
231
00:21:18,360 --> 00:21:19,960
And the herd is safe.
232
00:21:21,360 --> 00:21:23,720
Until tomorrow night.
233
00:21:39,480 --> 00:21:40,920
It's the end of March.
234
00:21:44,240 --> 00:21:48,080
Across the Rockies,
billions of tonnes of water
235
00:21:48,080 --> 00:21:51,040
have been locked up all winter
as snow and ice.
236
00:21:57,160 --> 00:22:00,600
But today,
for the first time this year,
237
00:22:00,600 --> 00:22:03,480
the sun is in the sky
for more than 12 hours.
238
00:22:06,120 --> 00:22:09,320
And, at last, spring has arrived.
239
00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:20,160
The mountains are waking up,
240
00:22:20,160 --> 00:22:21,680
the tap is being turned on.
241
00:22:24,880 --> 00:22:28,320
3,000 waterfalls appear
across the Rockies.
242
00:22:33,600 --> 00:22:37,720
Hundreds of billions of gallons are
released from the mountains.
243
00:22:41,640 --> 00:22:44,440
A thousand frozen lakes
are unlocked...
244
00:22:46,480 --> 00:22:47,880
..and filled with meltwater.
245
00:22:53,200 --> 00:22:57,040
The Rockies nourish
900 million acres across America.
246
00:22:59,920 --> 00:23:01,920
The good times are coming.
247
00:23:05,360 --> 00:23:08,000
Spring grass is rich and wholesome.
248
00:23:11,640 --> 00:23:13,120
Everyone is hungry...
249
00:23:15,560 --> 00:23:17,320
..including the predators.
250
00:23:22,400 --> 00:23:25,120
BIRDS CHIRP
251
00:23:29,080 --> 00:23:31,760
In the mountain meadows of Wyoming,
252
00:23:31,760 --> 00:23:33,600
an elk calf has just been born.
253
00:23:36,480 --> 00:23:38,920
The timing of her birth
was impeccable.
254
00:23:38,920 --> 00:23:42,240
Any earlier, and frosts would have
killed her.
255
00:23:42,240 --> 00:23:44,760
Any later, she would miss
the spring grass.
256
00:23:46,600 --> 00:23:49,080
But it's also
the most dangerous time.
257
00:23:49,080 --> 00:23:51,000
Hungry predators are all around.
258
00:23:54,360 --> 00:23:57,960
When she's just born, her legs are
too weak to hold her weight.
259
00:24:07,960 --> 00:24:10,560
The calf can't run to save herself.
260
00:24:10,560 --> 00:24:12,600
Instead, she has to hide.
261
00:24:19,280 --> 00:24:21,480
Her mother has a strong scent.
262
00:24:21,480 --> 00:24:23,400
A beacon to predators.
263
00:24:26,840 --> 00:24:30,080
The only way to protect her baby
is to leave her.
264
00:24:53,480 --> 00:24:56,680
The first night of her life will be
the longest.
265
00:25:09,680 --> 00:25:12,520
HOWLING
266
00:25:12,520 --> 00:25:13,720
Wolves.
267
00:25:13,720 --> 00:25:15,280
HOWLING AND BARKING
268
00:25:15,280 --> 00:25:17,200
Coyote.
269
00:25:17,200 --> 00:25:19,560
Even cougar.
270
00:25:19,560 --> 00:25:22,840
On that first night, the sounds of
hunting are all around her.
271
00:25:25,840 --> 00:25:27,960
Instinctively,
she knows to stay still.
272
00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:48,120
Dawn is a long time coming.
273
00:25:57,800 --> 00:25:59,640
The calf has survived the night.
274
00:26:02,320 --> 00:26:06,200
But the chatter of magpies signals
not all newborns were so lucky.
275
00:26:11,040 --> 00:26:14,720
Scavengers bicker over the remains
of a calf killed overnight.
276
00:26:18,480 --> 00:26:20,120
And now there's a new threat.
277
00:26:23,440 --> 00:26:27,280
During the spring,
one third of all newborn calves
278
00:26:27,280 --> 00:26:30,880
are killed by
one highly specialised deer-hunter.
279
00:26:43,840 --> 00:26:48,880
This grizzly bear has just come out
of a five-month hibernation,
280
00:26:48,880 --> 00:26:50,360
and she's famished.
281
00:26:54,320 --> 00:26:58,960
The grizzly's sense of smell
is 2,000 times better than a human.
282
00:27:06,120 --> 00:27:10,000
But this calf has a trick
to avoid being sniffed out.
283
00:27:11,800 --> 00:27:15,000
She has been born
almost without scent herself.
284
00:27:16,240 --> 00:27:18,640
The bear's nose is no use.
285
00:27:25,360 --> 00:27:28,840
But grizzlies are smart,
and have other tactics.
286
00:27:30,080 --> 00:27:32,280
She methodically combs
through the meadow.
287
00:27:54,920 --> 00:27:58,040
The calf must stay absolutely still.
288
00:28:00,920 --> 00:28:02,960
The worst thing to do now is run.
289
00:28:30,400 --> 00:28:35,040
The bear ambles away, unaware
of the meal that was under her nose.
290
00:28:43,360 --> 00:28:45,400
The mother returns to her calf.
291
00:28:50,280 --> 00:28:51,880
Her legs are growing stronger.
292
00:29:00,000 --> 00:29:02,160
Her mother can now lead her back
293
00:29:02,160 --> 00:29:05,360
towards the mountains
and the safety of the herd.
294
00:29:10,200 --> 00:29:11,440
In the Rockies,
295
00:29:11,440 --> 00:29:15,840
sometimes the bravest animals
come in the smallest sizes.
296
00:29:25,800 --> 00:29:27,440
It's late spring.
297
00:29:28,920 --> 00:29:30,880
And the sun heats the mountain
rocks...
298
00:29:33,000 --> 00:29:37,120
..which warms the surrounding air,
making winds,
299
00:29:37,120 --> 00:29:39,640
which are forced
up the valley sides.
300
00:29:42,520 --> 00:29:44,880
Winds made by the mountains.
301
00:29:46,920 --> 00:29:49,600
It's the perfect place to be a bird.
302
00:29:58,160 --> 00:30:00,520
I dreamed about flying
when I was a kid.
303
00:30:02,800 --> 00:30:05,640
I've always had a fascination
and a curiosity
304
00:30:05,640 --> 00:30:07,800
with the freedom that birds have.
305
00:30:11,920 --> 00:30:14,160
Just not being attached to earth.
306
00:30:20,080 --> 00:30:23,520
Jeff Shapiro lives in the heart
of the Montana Rockies.
307
00:30:28,120 --> 00:30:31,440
Every other day
in the spring and summer,
308
00:30:31,440 --> 00:30:33,520
he climbs into these mountains.
309
00:30:33,520 --> 00:30:37,120
I've always wanted to be in places
that were bigger than me,
310
00:30:37,120 --> 00:30:39,760
to show me how insignificant I am.
311
00:30:42,120 --> 00:30:45,400
You could spend a lifetime in the
Rockies and not see another person.
312
00:30:46,680 --> 00:30:49,920
They just go on for miles and miles
and miles.
313
00:30:51,000 --> 00:30:54,000
And that gives me a feeling
like there's still adventure.
314
00:30:55,520 --> 00:30:59,040
The conditions must be perfect
before he flies.
315
00:31:00,280 --> 00:31:01,720
As I'm approaching the jump,
316
00:31:01,720 --> 00:31:05,120
I try and pay attention
to what the birds are doing.
317
00:31:07,560 --> 00:31:11,800
I try and pay attention to how
the leaves on the trees are moving.
318
00:31:11,800 --> 00:31:15,080
It all gives me information
that will help me stay safe.
319
00:31:21,320 --> 00:31:23,840
One of the most important factors
is timing.
320
00:31:26,120 --> 00:31:28,360
The moment I choose
to jump off the cliff
321
00:31:28,360 --> 00:31:31,600
is the most important moment
in my life.
322
00:31:31,600 --> 00:31:32,960
Because I've committed.
323
00:31:34,960 --> 00:31:38,240
The valley floor
is 3,000 feet below.
324
00:31:50,840 --> 00:31:52,440
HE EXHALES SHARPLY
325
00:31:52,440 --> 00:31:56,760
Three, two, one.
326
00:31:56,760 --> 00:31:58,640
See ya!
327
00:32:34,960 --> 00:32:38,480
The first time I stepped off the
ground and escaped from gravity...
328
00:32:40,880 --> 00:32:44,600
..that sense of speed and
you're connected to the mountain,
329
00:32:44,600 --> 00:32:46,200
you're connected to the terrain...
330
00:32:48,360 --> 00:32:50,960
I guess it could be described as,
like, pure joy.
331
00:32:57,600 --> 00:33:01,000
To have that sense
that anything's possible...
332
00:33:04,400 --> 00:33:06,080
..that, to me, feels like freedom.
333
00:33:18,880 --> 00:33:20,400
Summer has arrived.
334
00:33:21,840 --> 00:33:23,680
The mountain peaks are now bare.
335
00:33:26,320 --> 00:33:30,040
The melting snow has made temporary
ponds in the mountain meadows.
336
00:33:33,720 --> 00:33:35,480
They're full of life.
337
00:33:35,480 --> 00:33:38,360
But in the heat of the summer sun,
they won't last long.
338
00:33:42,760 --> 00:33:44,480
In ponds like this...
339
00:33:46,800 --> 00:33:49,240
..young salamanders are growing.
340
00:33:50,280 --> 00:33:51,920
Just three inches long.
341
00:33:53,560 --> 00:33:57,000
But the biggest beasts
in this tiny kingdom.
342
00:34:00,320 --> 00:34:03,320
The manes around their heads
are gills.
343
00:34:04,320 --> 00:34:07,840
The feathery fronds soaking up
the oxygen from the water.
344
00:34:14,880 --> 00:34:18,320
Their small mouths are just
big enough to swallow their lunch.
345
00:34:19,760 --> 00:34:22,400
But with microscopic teeth,
346
00:34:22,400 --> 00:34:24,320
eating is a slow process.
347
00:34:26,240 --> 00:34:29,040
At first, all is well.
348
00:34:29,040 --> 00:34:32,960
But in the summer heat,
the pond starts to shrink.
349
00:34:41,880 --> 00:34:44,040
The salamanders
350
00:34:44,040 --> 00:34:46,760
become a little too close
for comfort.
351
00:34:49,440 --> 00:34:53,080
Soon, the cupboard starts
to run dry.
352
00:34:54,640 --> 00:34:58,560
And the salamanders are hungry.
353
00:35:02,760 --> 00:35:07,080
And it's now
that the mood starts to darken.
354
00:35:22,320 --> 00:35:26,360
The biggest salamander in the pond
starts transforming...
355
00:35:28,400 --> 00:35:31,240
..into something more sinister.
356
00:35:33,960 --> 00:35:35,800
His mouth has grown wider.
357
00:35:38,200 --> 00:35:41,200
He's developed
hundreds of needle-sharp teeth.
358
00:35:42,360 --> 00:35:45,080
They'll stop his new victims
from wriggling away.
359
00:35:51,480 --> 00:35:56,280
The other salamanders may well be
his brothers and sisters,
360
00:35:56,280 --> 00:35:58,960
but they're starting to look
quite tasty.
361
00:36:01,920 --> 00:36:05,760
He has transformed into a cannibal.
362
00:36:20,400 --> 00:36:22,840
The mountain sun keeps shrinking
the pond.
363
00:36:25,520 --> 00:36:28,880
So there's no escape
from Big Brother.
364
00:36:31,800 --> 00:36:36,280
But then the victims start
to fight back.
365
00:36:36,280 --> 00:36:40,080
The other salamanders also start
to turn into cannibals.
366
00:36:45,680 --> 00:36:47,640
Everyone wants to eat everyone else.
367
00:36:54,760 --> 00:37:01,240
Soon, in this pond, there's just
a single, very plump salamander.
368
00:37:03,280 --> 00:37:06,920
Everyone else has
mysteriously disappeared.
369
00:37:09,320 --> 00:37:11,640
But it's an empty victory.
370
00:37:11,640 --> 00:37:15,200
The mountain sun has turned the pond
into a puddle.
371
00:37:15,200 --> 00:37:18,480
Eventually it will dry out
completely
372
00:37:18,480 --> 00:37:20,200
and he too would die...
373
00:37:22,600 --> 00:37:26,840
..except he has performed
another even-greater trick.
374
00:37:27,640 --> 00:37:30,240
His gills have disappeared,
375
00:37:30,240 --> 00:37:32,080
reabsorbed into his body.
376
00:37:33,800 --> 00:37:37,160
Inside him,
he has grown a pair of lungs.
377
00:37:40,160 --> 00:37:44,600
Then, as the mountain sun dries up
the last of the puddle,
378
00:37:44,600 --> 00:37:47,760
this Houdini steps out
379
00:37:47,760 --> 00:37:51,800
and fills his lungs
with the cool mountain air.
380
00:37:55,280 --> 00:37:57,280
The ultimate transformer.
381
00:38:07,640 --> 00:38:09,280
Midsummer.
382
00:38:09,280 --> 00:38:11,720
But even now,
autumn is around the corner.
383
00:38:14,680 --> 00:38:18,720
Everyone's in a hurry to make
the most of nature's gold rush.
384
00:38:25,120 --> 00:38:28,160
And no-one is busier
than this creature.
385
00:38:31,600 --> 00:38:33,400
A Rufous hummingbird.
386
00:38:34,520 --> 00:38:40,000
The tiny master of the Rockies
weighing less than a penny,
387
00:38:40,000 --> 00:38:43,760
and with a pulse rate of 1,000,
no heart beats faster.
388
00:38:50,360 --> 00:38:54,400
In summer, they live
at the very north of the Rockies,
389
00:38:54,400 --> 00:38:57,400
using the long days
to raise their family.
390
00:38:59,600 --> 00:39:04,000
These tiny newborns are the size
of a sugar cube,
391
00:39:04,000 --> 00:39:07,760
in a nest so light
it's held together with spider silk.
392
00:39:13,400 --> 00:39:16,760
Their busy mother feeds them
60 times a day
393
00:39:16,760 --> 00:39:20,400
on a mix of regurgitated nectar
and insects.
394
00:39:21,720 --> 00:39:23,200
Hummingbird rocket fuel.
395
00:39:29,560 --> 00:39:33,160
She can raise a whole family
in just 18 days.
396
00:39:39,480 --> 00:39:41,520
Soon, there's only one chick left.
397
00:39:45,080 --> 00:39:47,240
But she's reluctant to fly the nest.
398
00:39:49,480 --> 00:39:52,280
She's still getting used
to the big, wide world.
399
00:39:54,320 --> 00:39:57,120
But the biggest moment of her life
is about to begin.
400
00:39:58,960 --> 00:40:00,800
The flowers here are dying.
401
00:40:02,160 --> 00:40:04,640
She must fly south
in search of food.
402
00:40:05,800 --> 00:40:10,200
She's the smallest creature on the
greatest journey in the Rockies.
403
00:40:17,280 --> 00:40:21,880
3,000 miles from the very north
to the very south.
404
00:40:23,080 --> 00:40:27,200
Less than a month old,
totally on her own,
405
00:40:27,200 --> 00:40:31,480
she must race down the Rockies
to catch the blossoming flowers.
406
00:40:33,920 --> 00:40:37,920
She crosses the border,
from Canada to the USA.
407
00:40:38,760 --> 00:40:40,200
And then flies south...
408
00:40:41,640 --> 00:40:43,240
..over mountain lakes...
409
00:40:45,560 --> 00:40:47,080
..over five states...
410
00:40:49,760 --> 00:40:51,200
..over great peaks...
411
00:40:54,640 --> 00:40:57,600
..and down
through huge mountain passes.
412
00:41:02,360 --> 00:41:04,600
At the very south of the Rockies,
413
00:41:04,600 --> 00:41:07,160
the mountain meadows have just
a moment
414
00:41:07,160 --> 00:41:09,760
when every flower is full of nectar.
415
00:41:20,320 --> 00:41:21,640
It's hummingbird heaven.
416
00:41:22,880 --> 00:41:25,240
And she's arrived
at the perfect time.
417
00:41:27,120 --> 00:41:29,640
Here, she has a pit stop to refuel.
418
00:41:31,240 --> 00:41:33,240
But not a moment to relax.
419
00:41:40,200 --> 00:41:41,920
She's off again,
420
00:41:41,920 --> 00:41:43,360
further south,
421
00:41:43,360 --> 00:41:45,840
chasing the sun.
422
00:41:45,840 --> 00:41:48,080
The tiny hero of the Rockies
423
00:41:48,080 --> 00:41:51,280
with the most epic journey of all.
424
00:41:59,360 --> 00:42:01,840
Summer is all too brief
in the Rockies.
425
00:42:03,280 --> 00:42:05,920
As soon as it arrives, it's gone.
426
00:42:08,360 --> 00:42:11,560
The hot summer nights
begin to lengthen,
427
00:42:11,560 --> 00:42:14,680
and the stars put on
a spectacular show.
428
00:42:19,400 --> 00:42:21,960
High above, the Milky Way drifts by.
429
00:42:25,640 --> 00:42:27,160
PEOPLE SQUEAL
430
00:42:28,920 --> 00:42:31,560
Down below,
the people of the Rockies
431
00:42:31,560 --> 00:42:34,560
celebrate the end of summer
in county fairs.
432
00:42:35,600 --> 00:42:38,000
The first frosts will soon be here.
433
00:42:39,040 --> 00:42:41,680
For most, this is a time to relax.
434
00:42:43,640 --> 00:42:45,360
But not for everybody.
435
00:42:59,440 --> 00:43:04,600
Oliver Pakotas is about to face
the toughest race in the Rockies.
436
00:43:08,720 --> 00:43:11,800
Months of practice have led
to this one moment.
437
00:43:11,800 --> 00:43:14,400
CHEERING
438
00:43:19,080 --> 00:43:21,160
The Indian Relay -
439
00:43:21,160 --> 00:43:25,640
a Rocky Mountains speciality
of bravery and split-second timing.
440
00:43:27,000 --> 00:43:30,120
Each rider must complete three laps
of the track.
441
00:43:30,120 --> 00:43:34,080
At the end of each lap, they must
jump from one horse to another.
442
00:43:34,080 --> 00:43:36,720
And it's all done bareback.
443
00:43:38,800 --> 00:43:42,040
It's a speciality
of Native American Indians,
444
00:43:42,040 --> 00:43:46,280
different tribes
competing for the honours.
445
00:43:46,280 --> 00:43:49,160
The winner
is the first past the post.
446
00:43:53,600 --> 00:43:57,440
Keep him going, keep him going.
Push it on and make him work.
447
00:43:57,440 --> 00:43:58,880
Give him the work.
448
00:43:58,880 --> 00:44:00,640
Holy cow!
449
00:44:00,640 --> 00:44:02,120
That's pretty good.
450
00:44:03,200 --> 00:44:06,760
Judging the perfect moment to jump
bareback onto the horse
451
00:44:06,760 --> 00:44:08,560
takes Oliver months of training.
452
00:44:09,680 --> 00:44:11,920
There's a team of four involved.
453
00:44:11,920 --> 00:44:12,960
All family.
454
00:44:14,760 --> 00:44:18,160
Brother Winfred holds the horses
in the race.
455
00:44:18,160 --> 00:44:19,760
So does his father, John.
456
00:44:21,200 --> 00:44:23,520
Father-in-law Carey is the trainer.
457
00:44:26,280 --> 00:44:28,160
And Oliver is the jockey.
458
00:44:31,720 --> 00:44:33,840
You always represent
where you come from.
459
00:44:33,840 --> 00:44:36,880
And that's where Grizzly Mountain
comes from -
460
00:44:36,880 --> 00:44:39,080
it's the biggest mountain
on our reservation.
461
00:44:40,400 --> 00:44:43,160
So I represent my home people,
462
00:44:43,160 --> 00:44:45,000
so when I go on the road,
463
00:44:45,000 --> 00:44:47,880
I let people know that this is where
I come from.
464
00:44:47,880 --> 00:44:51,720
This is my mountain, and this is
our mountain, my family's mountain.
465
00:44:51,720 --> 00:44:55,800
In all the years since I've ever
been a kid, we've always had horses.
466
00:44:55,800 --> 00:44:58,200
And they're like brothers and
sisters to us.
467
00:45:00,040 --> 00:45:02,760
These horses need
specialist training.
468
00:45:02,760 --> 00:45:05,280
And that means getting deep
into the mountains.
469
00:45:06,520 --> 00:45:09,480
I like to take them in the mountains
and it's just you and the horse,
470
00:45:09,480 --> 00:45:11,400
you know, and you almost become one.
471
00:45:11,400 --> 00:45:16,880
And that's how it feels, too,
it's like their legs become my legs.
472
00:45:20,960 --> 00:45:25,040
You know, a bird could fly up or
a coyote could run by or something.
473
00:45:25,040 --> 00:45:28,040
Once they get used to that,
then I know they're ready
474
00:45:28,040 --> 00:45:29,720
to go do some relay racing.
475
00:45:29,720 --> 00:45:32,600
We develop a trust with each other
out there with them
476
00:45:32,600 --> 00:45:34,560
that you can't get on a racetrack.
477
00:45:40,480 --> 00:45:43,680
Indian Relay is the oldest sport
in the Rockies.
478
00:45:44,880 --> 00:45:49,040
It grew from the life of the
Native American tribes.
479
00:45:53,000 --> 00:45:54,880
The horse was so important to us
480
00:45:54,880 --> 00:45:57,200
when they were out hunting
and gathering,
481
00:45:57,200 --> 00:45:59,560
and even when you went out
to chase your buffalo,
482
00:45:59,560 --> 00:46:02,160
you had to have a second horse
or a third horse.
483
00:46:07,480 --> 00:46:10,640
The family has special ways to
prepare their horses.
484
00:46:12,160 --> 00:46:15,760
Their local mountains have
a salt lake
485
00:46:15,760 --> 00:46:19,680
that cools the horses' aching
muscles, and heals any cuts.
486
00:46:25,520 --> 00:46:28,600
Oliver burns mountain sage
in a ceremony
487
00:46:28,600 --> 00:46:31,360
to protect horse and rider
from injury.
488
00:46:33,480 --> 00:46:35,480
You're putting a shield
over your horses.
489
00:46:37,200 --> 00:46:39,600
I don't know how many people
really believe in it,
490
00:46:39,600 --> 00:46:41,360
but I believe in it.
491
00:46:41,360 --> 00:46:43,240
That's how come we're here,
492
00:46:43,240 --> 00:46:45,840
is because our ancestors did
the same thing.
493
00:46:45,840 --> 00:46:52,360
# ..the land of the free
494
00:46:52,360 --> 00:47:02,480
# And the home of the brave. #
495
00:47:02,480 --> 00:47:04,800
It's the day of Oliver's big race.
496
00:47:13,280 --> 00:47:16,200
The evening starts
with a Rocky Mountain rodeo.
497
00:47:43,160 --> 00:47:46,160
When I walk out onto the track,
you almost...
498
00:47:46,160 --> 00:47:49,080
I guess I'd call it getting
into a warrior mode.
499
00:47:49,080 --> 00:47:51,240
Nothing else matters in the world.
500
00:47:54,560 --> 00:47:56,160
HEARTBEATS
501
00:47:58,600 --> 00:48:00,880
When you're bareback,
horses can feel your heartbeat.
502
00:48:00,880 --> 00:48:03,680
So if I'm staying calm, you know,
503
00:48:03,680 --> 00:48:05,880
they know
there ain't nothing to worry about.
504
00:48:10,000 --> 00:48:11,280
Oliver's primed.
505
00:48:12,720 --> 00:48:14,120
The other horses, ready.
506
00:48:15,400 --> 00:48:17,240
The moment has come.
507
00:48:20,280 --> 00:48:22,520
CHEERING
508
00:48:32,520 --> 00:48:35,120
You almost get
this sense of invincibility.
509
00:48:39,520 --> 00:48:42,200
All that matters
is that next three minutes.
510
00:48:47,560 --> 00:48:50,280
Almost like you're going to go
into battle.
511
00:49:11,800 --> 00:49:13,920
CHEERING
512
00:49:16,080 --> 00:49:19,400
Oliver's won. Timed to perfection,
513
00:49:19,400 --> 00:49:21,680
all that Rocky Mountain training
has paid off.
514
00:49:36,920 --> 00:49:40,440
Oliver is back in the land
belonging to his tribe.
515
00:49:49,120 --> 00:49:52,280
It takes a certain spirit
to make it in the Rockies...
516
00:49:56,160 --> 00:49:58,040
..of determination...
517
00:50:05,880 --> 00:50:08,360
..of patience...
518
00:50:08,360 --> 00:50:10,600
but above all,
519
00:50:10,600 --> 00:50:12,800
knowing when to seize the moment.
520
00:50:14,880 --> 00:50:16,960
Take a chance and win
521
00:50:16,960 --> 00:50:18,960
in these ever-changing mountains.
522
00:50:22,360 --> 00:50:25,680
For the bold and the brave,
523
00:50:25,680 --> 00:50:28,240
their reward -
524
00:50:28,240 --> 00:50:31,120
the freedom of the Rocky Mountains.
525
00:50:51,080 --> 00:50:55,120
To film the most mysterious animal
in the Rocky Mountains,
526
00:50:55,120 --> 00:50:59,680
the team relied on the expertise of
cameramen Casey Henderson.
527
00:50:59,680 --> 00:51:03,600
Casey is mountain-lion mad
and spends his life
528
00:51:03,600 --> 00:51:05,680
tracking them around the mountains.
529
00:51:05,680 --> 00:51:08,120
Of all the animals out there,
530
00:51:08,120 --> 00:51:11,320
the one that I'm the most obsessed
with is the mountain lion.
531
00:51:11,320 --> 00:51:16,400
And if you can get, like, just
one moment of watching this animal,
532
00:51:16,400 --> 00:51:18,600
who's almost impossible to watch,
533
00:51:18,600 --> 00:51:20,840
yeah, it's really the biggest path,
534
00:51:20,840 --> 00:51:22,600
for me, the greatest gift ever.
535
00:51:23,920 --> 00:51:28,560
Casey's tracking skills led him
to an abandoned ranch,
536
00:51:28,560 --> 00:51:32,040
which he suspected may be visited
by a female mountain lion.
537
00:51:33,040 --> 00:51:35,200
I was walking here and it was just
538
00:51:35,200 --> 00:51:37,800
ten times more
than I could ever believe.
539
00:51:37,800 --> 00:51:41,400
I mean, every one of these buildings
has a dead deer in it.
540
00:51:41,400 --> 00:51:43,440
So she's been using these buildings,
541
00:51:43,440 --> 00:51:47,040
killing outside of them,
caching these deer in here,
542
00:51:47,040 --> 00:51:48,520
calling this place home.
543
00:51:48,520 --> 00:51:50,960
And really kind
of a dream come true,
544
00:51:50,960 --> 00:51:52,760
even though
it's kind of nightmarish.
545
00:51:54,760 --> 00:51:57,280
Casey wants to catch her red-handed
546
00:51:57,280 --> 00:52:00,280
as she drags her kills
into these barns.
547
00:52:02,120 --> 00:52:06,640
But first he will need to learn her
movements in this vast wilderness.
548
00:52:11,880 --> 00:52:15,120
Casey and fellow cameraman
Brad Orsted
549
00:52:15,120 --> 00:52:17,000
go into the mountains every day.
550
00:52:20,920 --> 00:52:24,600
They search for prints
she may have left behind.
551
00:52:24,600 --> 00:52:26,680
I can see her tracks right here.
552
00:52:28,240 --> 00:52:29,600
Watch your head.
553
00:52:31,200 --> 00:52:34,000
They put cameras
where she may be sleeping.
554
00:52:34,000 --> 00:52:35,720
Look at that angle.
555
00:52:39,520 --> 00:52:43,560
Having the opportunity to follow
this cat around for such a long time
556
00:52:43,560 --> 00:52:48,200
and really start to develop her
patterns and movement...
557
00:52:49,640 --> 00:52:51,920
If I know she's been in here,
I know where she's going next.
558
00:52:51,920 --> 00:52:55,160
And if she goes here, she's going
to go down to the drainage,
559
00:52:55,160 --> 00:52:57,760
she's going to go hunting
down towards the ghost ranch.
560
00:53:03,520 --> 00:53:06,080
Even at night, they're
on the mountain lion's trail.
561
00:53:09,800 --> 00:53:14,600
After months of patience,
the evidence trickles in.
562
00:53:14,600 --> 00:53:17,320
CAMERA CLICKS
563
00:53:17,320 --> 00:53:23,200
True detectives, Brad and Casey log
every sighting, movement, and track.
564
00:53:24,320 --> 00:53:26,120
It's starting to pay off.
565
00:53:26,120 --> 00:53:29,080
We're really connecting the dots
and being rewarded
566
00:53:29,080 --> 00:53:32,320
for all that knowledge that
she's given us into her life.
567
00:53:32,320 --> 00:53:35,560
Her pattern is to go that direction,
so the ranch could be next.
568
00:53:37,000 --> 00:53:39,400
But their good luck
is about to change.
569
00:53:41,880 --> 00:53:44,760
In the Rockies,
hunting is a way of life.
570
00:53:44,760 --> 00:53:47,120
And a mountain lion is a top prize.
571
00:53:51,000 --> 00:53:54,160
to force mountain lions
out into the open.
572
00:53:54,160 --> 00:53:59,160
From his house, Casey hears
the sound that he fears the most.
573
00:53:59,160 --> 00:54:01,520
HOWLING AND BARKING
Hunting dogs.
574
00:54:04,400 --> 00:54:07,040
The mountain lion could be
in danger.
575
00:54:07,040 --> 00:54:09,600
Yeah, in America, you're allowed
to hunt mountain lions.
576
00:54:09,600 --> 00:54:11,360
Predator control.
577
00:54:11,360 --> 00:54:15,560
And they're always worried about
their livestock,
578
00:54:15,560 --> 00:54:18,600
and their livelihood and
579
00:54:18,600 --> 00:54:24,280
they think that the predators are
going to make their lives worse.
580
00:54:32,080 --> 00:54:34,640
It's the mountain lion
Casey has been tracking.
581
00:54:38,280 --> 00:54:40,280
Hang tight. Real quick.
582
00:54:42,240 --> 00:54:44,840
He sets off to talk to the hunters,
583
00:54:44,840 --> 00:54:48,000
leaving the camera behind,
so as not to antagonise them.
584
00:54:50,360 --> 00:54:53,320
The mountain lion is cornered
on the cliff face,
585
00:54:53,320 --> 00:54:55,560
with dogs blocking her every move.
586
00:55:02,400 --> 00:55:04,640
The only chance
the mountain lion has
587
00:55:04,640 --> 00:55:08,800
is if Casey can persuade the hunters
not to shoot.
588
00:55:08,800 --> 00:55:10,800
The cat's life hangs in the balance.
589
00:55:13,240 --> 00:55:15,520
She's in danger of becoming one of
590
00:55:15,520 --> 00:55:18,600
the 400 mountain lions shot
in Montana each year.
591
00:55:27,680 --> 00:55:30,120
Casey eventually wins
the hunters over.
592
00:55:32,120 --> 00:55:33,840
And they call off their dogs.
593
00:55:33,840 --> 00:55:36,000
DISTANT SHOUTING AND WHISTLING
594
00:55:42,320 --> 00:55:46,120
I laid it all on them
as chummy as I could.
595
00:55:46,120 --> 00:55:48,240
Now they heard me out.
And they basically
596
00:55:48,240 --> 00:55:50,760
made up their mind that they're
not going to kill a cat today.
597
00:55:50,760 --> 00:55:53,680
If we didn't come up here,
they easily could have shot her.
598
00:55:55,080 --> 00:55:57,200
Yeah, I feel like, I feel pretty...
599
00:55:59,400 --> 00:56:01,200
..I don't even know the right word.
600
00:56:02,760 --> 00:56:04,000
Emotional about it, for sure.
601
00:56:04,000 --> 00:56:07,000
Because it is life and death.
602
00:56:07,000 --> 00:56:10,600
You know, in the wild,
there's so much to worry about.
603
00:56:10,600 --> 00:56:12,560
And she's out here dodging wolves
and...
604
00:56:13,960 --> 00:56:16,040
You know, living a crazy life.
605
00:56:16,040 --> 00:56:18,840
And then these guys come up here
and that could have just...
606
00:56:20,080 --> 00:56:22,560
One little moment could have been
over.
607
00:56:22,560 --> 00:56:26,840
And to be involved in that, somehow
getting embedded in that today,
608
00:56:26,840 --> 00:56:28,200
to make that not happen...
609
00:56:32,040 --> 00:56:34,120
..so thankful that that happened,
610
00:56:34,120 --> 00:56:35,520
that it worked out this way.
611
00:56:36,760 --> 00:56:38,160
Yeah, pretty heavy stuff.
612
00:56:40,000 --> 00:56:41,880
You know, like all things, you know,
613
00:56:41,880 --> 00:56:43,920
I wish I had a long lens
and a tripod.
614
00:56:47,800 --> 00:56:53,160
But the good news is that, at last,
Casey has concrete evidence that the
615
00:56:53,160 --> 00:56:55,000
mountain lion is close by.
616
00:57:05,720 --> 00:57:07,200
Guess who's back!
617
00:57:09,440 --> 00:57:11,480
It's her.
618
00:57:11,480 --> 00:57:15,120
You know, getting this footage back
and having, you know,
619
00:57:15,120 --> 00:57:17,800
all that hard work and all that
speculation that was happening,
620
00:57:17,800 --> 00:57:20,400
and then having it pay off right
here to prove that it is our girl,
621
00:57:20,400 --> 00:57:21,920
it is our mountain lion,
622
00:57:21,920 --> 00:57:25,120
and she's doing this very cool thing
in a very cool place,
623
00:57:25,120 --> 00:57:28,760
utilising this old ghost town
to thrive.
624
00:57:28,760 --> 00:57:31,000
This is amazing.
This is exactly what
625
00:57:31,000 --> 00:57:33,920
we've been busting our butt for,
to see this stuff.
626
00:57:33,920 --> 00:57:36,640
See here, she's walking over
and giving the camera a sniff.
627
00:57:38,960 --> 00:57:40,960
Yeah, it's me!
628
00:57:40,960 --> 00:57:45,600
Yeah, this is the first time that
anybody's ever documented
629
00:57:45,600 --> 00:57:48,040
a mountain lion in a ghost town.
630
00:57:48,040 --> 00:57:51,280
But I think, most importantly,
she's back.
631
00:57:51,280 --> 00:57:53,120
And that proves that she's OK.
632
00:57:54,360 --> 00:57:56,600
And that's the biggest reward
of this, by far.
633
00:58:11,640 --> 00:58:15,160
The highest mountain range
on the planet.
634
00:58:15,160 --> 00:58:19,960
A magical world,
where the strangest animals,
635
00:58:19,960 --> 00:58:25,200
ancient cultures, and extraordinary
people all make a home.
636
00:58:25,200 --> 00:58:28,000
It can only be the Himalaya.
49793
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