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1
00:00:02,280 --> 00:00:05,080
'I'm Andrew Graham-Dixon,
and I'm an art historian.'
2
00:00:05,080 --> 00:00:07,480
We're in the basement of
Italian history.
3
00:00:07,480 --> 00:00:10,040
'And I'm Giorgio Locatelli,
and I'm a chef.'
4
00:00:10,040 --> 00:00:11,560
Untuosa.
5
00:00:11,560 --> 00:00:13,040
Unctuous.
6
00:00:13,040 --> 00:00:15,960
'We are both passionate
about my homeland, Italy.'
7
00:00:15,960 --> 00:00:17,760
Come on, everybody! Let's go!
8
00:00:18,840 --> 00:00:21,760
'The rich flavour and
classic dishes of this land
9
00:00:21,760 --> 00:00:23,240
'are in my culinary DNA.'
10
00:00:23,240 --> 00:00:24,960
Pasta would be like...
11
00:00:24,960 --> 00:00:27,560
'And this country's rich
layers of art and history
12
00:00:27,560 --> 00:00:29,720
'have captivated me since childhood.'
13
00:00:29,720 --> 00:00:33,560
It actually brings out
the naked body all the more.
14
00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:35,160
'In this series, we'll be travelling
15
00:00:35,160 --> 00:00:37,160
'all the way down the
west coast of the country,
16
00:00:37,160 --> 00:00:40,960
'from top to toe, stepping off
the tourist track wherever we go.'
17
00:00:40,960 --> 00:00:42,600
This is so Italian.
18
00:00:42,600 --> 00:00:46,280
'I want to show off some of
my country's most surprising food.'
19
00:00:46,280 --> 00:00:47,680
It is hot!
20
00:00:47,680 --> 00:00:51,080
'Oftenmost born out of necessity,
but leaving a legacy
21
00:00:51,080 --> 00:00:54,520
'that's still shaping Italian
modern cuisine around the world.'
22
00:00:54,520 --> 00:00:55,560
Mmm.
23
00:00:55,560 --> 00:01:00,520
'And the art, too, is fantastic,
exotic, deeply rooted in history.'
24
00:01:00,520 --> 00:01:03,240
'Our journey begins in
the north-west of the country,
25
00:01:03,240 --> 00:01:06,360
'Liguria, a region squeezed
between the Tyrrhenian Sea
26
00:01:06,360 --> 00:01:07,760
'and the rugged mountains.'
27
00:01:08,760 --> 00:01:11,880
'And we'll be continuing our journey
along the coast that attracted
28
00:01:11,880 --> 00:01:14,320
'and inspired
the English Romantics...'
29
00:01:14,320 --> 00:01:15,920
GIORGIO CHEERS
30
00:01:15,920 --> 00:01:18,640
'..to unknown Tuscany,
to find some hidden gems
31
00:01:18,640 --> 00:01:20,440
'in the tourist trap of Pisa.'
32
00:01:26,920 --> 00:01:30,320
'Our first stop is
Liguria's capital, Genoa.
33
00:01:30,320 --> 00:01:34,280
'Once one of Italy's
great maritime republics,
34
00:01:34,280 --> 00:01:36,800
'Genoa is still the most
important port in Italy,
35
00:01:36,800 --> 00:01:41,000
'but too often people arrive here
only to leave again immediately.'
36
00:01:41,000 --> 00:01:44,880
'But they're missing out on a place
with a truly fascinating history.
37
00:01:44,880 --> 00:01:48,400
'In the Middle Ages,
Genoa was a maritime superpower
38
00:01:48,400 --> 00:01:51,480
'with trading links
across the Mediterranean.
39
00:01:51,480 --> 00:01:54,600
'Genoa is a city of huge contrast.
40
00:01:54,600 --> 00:01:58,760
'Grand palaces are squeezed within
a warren of medieval alleyways.'
41
00:01:59,920 --> 00:02:02,560
'Now, I'm sure there's
a beautiful baroque palace
42
00:02:02,560 --> 00:02:06,240
'somewhere round here. Finding it,
though, is another matter.'
43
00:02:06,240 --> 00:02:08,040
I like this.
Do you know where we're going?
44
00:02:08,040 --> 00:02:09,480
I think it's down here, actually.
45
00:02:09,480 --> 00:02:12,400
Doesn't look like the way
to go to a palace, this one.
46
00:02:12,400 --> 00:02:14,200
No! But these are the caruggi.
47
00:02:14,200 --> 00:02:16,000
Rather than streets in a city,
48
00:02:16,000 --> 00:02:18,920
they're almost like
corridors in a house.
49
00:02:18,920 --> 00:02:22,080
Can you imagine if you tried
to invade the place?
50
00:02:22,080 --> 00:02:25,200
That's why they have this
network of medieval buildings.
51
00:02:25,200 --> 00:02:29,240
In effect, it's a form of defence.
You can't bring horses.
52
00:02:29,240 --> 00:02:31,240
It will slow you down so much.
53
00:02:31,240 --> 00:02:35,120
Yeah, so what happens is, if anyone
wants to invade medieval Genoa,
54
00:02:35,120 --> 00:02:37,760
the attackers are trapped
in a space maybe like this.
55
00:02:37,760 --> 00:02:40,280
And then they just...
And they just kill them.
56
00:02:40,280 --> 00:02:43,360
They pour boiling oil on them,
they shoot arrows down on them.
57
00:02:43,360 --> 00:02:45,200
What can they do?
58
00:02:45,200 --> 00:02:47,080
The light is brilliant, isn't it?
59
00:02:47,080 --> 00:02:49,160
This chiaroscuro. Yes.
60
00:02:51,360 --> 00:02:52,600
I think it's this way.
61
00:03:09,440 --> 00:03:12,080
I think that's it there. That's it!
62
00:03:12,080 --> 00:03:15,960
Finally! It look a bit different
than the other buildings.
63
00:03:15,960 --> 00:03:18,240
This is the amazing thing in Genoa.
64
00:03:18,240 --> 00:03:22,280
You are here in this
sort of poor area of town,
65
00:03:22,280 --> 00:03:26,760
and then suddenly there's
this fantastic baroque palace.
66
00:03:29,360 --> 00:03:33,600
'Genoa's power and prosperity was
at a peak in the 17th century.'
67
00:03:37,640 --> 00:03:41,000
It's a symbol of this
sudden new wealth, you know,
68
00:03:41,000 --> 00:03:45,320
when the Genovese bankers, they take
over from the Medici, suddenly,
69
00:03:45,320 --> 00:03:50,120
17th century, they are the richest
guys in all of Italy, basically.
70
00:03:54,280 --> 00:03:57,480
Wow - it's great, isn't it?
A hall of mirrors.
71
00:03:57,480 --> 00:04:00,560
A sort of mini version
of a Versailles interior.
72
00:04:04,280 --> 00:04:05,880
'For the rich Genoese,
73
00:04:05,880 --> 00:04:10,320
'the rococo style was the perfect way
to show their power and their money.
74
00:04:10,320 --> 00:04:15,000
'Mirrors, gold, silver,
stucco, you name it.'
75
00:04:16,600 --> 00:04:22,200
So here we are in the piano nobile,
the grand sala.
76
00:04:22,200 --> 00:04:24,960
This is the centrepiece
of the whole palace.
77
00:04:24,960 --> 00:04:29,200
It isn't X marks the spot, it's
chandelier marks the spot. Right.
78
00:04:29,200 --> 00:04:31,640
And I think that chandelier,
if you imagine it lit,
79
00:04:31,640 --> 00:04:35,320
it's telling us what they wanted us
to see if we were visiting.
80
00:04:35,320 --> 00:04:38,960
Which is this series of paintings,
which is all entirely
81
00:04:38,960 --> 00:04:42,560
about celebration
of the Genoese at sea.
82
00:04:42,560 --> 00:04:45,560
It's their way of saying to
all the kings and the ambassadors
83
00:04:45,560 --> 00:04:50,080
and the diplomats who came to Genoa,
"We Genoese, we rule the waves."
84
00:04:50,080 --> 00:04:53,360
It's no casuality that
they call it "La Superba".
85
00:04:53,360 --> 00:04:55,560
Genoa the proud.
86
00:04:55,560 --> 00:04:58,080
The story of Genoa as
a great maritime republic
87
00:04:58,080 --> 00:04:59,520
has rather been forgotten,
88
00:04:59,520 --> 00:05:02,720
but it was every bit as powerful
as Venice and in the 17th century.
89
00:05:02,720 --> 00:05:04,320
It's a kind of capsule of
90
00:05:04,320 --> 00:05:07,560
one of Europe's great
forgotten historical powers.
91
00:05:09,880 --> 00:05:11,040
Mi piace.
92
00:05:11,040 --> 00:05:12,560
You like it? Yes.
93
00:05:19,960 --> 00:05:22,760
'There is one more palazzo
we need to seek out.
94
00:05:22,760 --> 00:05:25,680
'It's got a beautiful art collection,
including one painting
95
00:05:25,680 --> 00:05:29,200
'I particularly want Giorgio to see.'
96
00:05:29,200 --> 00:05:32,800
'But first, I want to give Andrew
a real taste of Genoa,
97
00:05:32,800 --> 00:05:36,000
'where the main ingredient
is chickpeas.'
98
00:05:36,000 --> 00:05:37,560
We are in the Sciamadda,
99
00:05:37,560 --> 00:05:40,800
which is one of the oldest
farinata shops in town.
100
00:05:40,800 --> 00:05:42,880
Questo e' Andrea. Umberto.
101
00:05:42,880 --> 00:05:44,440
We are going to make farinata.
102
00:05:44,440 --> 00:05:46,600
OK. Look, he is going
to put some olive oil,
103
00:05:46,600 --> 00:05:48,680
which is obviously local olive oil.
104
00:05:48,680 --> 00:05:50,400
What is this, like a pancake?
105
00:05:50,400 --> 00:05:53,360
Kind of a pancake. It's an old way.
106
00:05:53,360 --> 00:05:55,320
The shop has been here from 1850s.
107
00:05:55,320 --> 00:05:57,800
That's water and chickpea flour.
108
00:05:57,800 --> 00:05:59,920
Qui c'e' solo aqua...?
109
00:05:59,920 --> 00:06:02,600
Farina di ceci,
sale e olio che viene...
110
00:06:02,600 --> 00:06:04,240
And a touch of salt.
111
00:06:11,560 --> 00:06:13,280
It's fermenting. Fermenting?
112
00:06:13,280 --> 00:06:17,320
Yeah, it's fermenting,
so you have a natural yeast.
113
00:06:17,320 --> 00:06:18,760
Is that all for us?
114
00:06:18,760 --> 00:06:21,240
Yeah, half for me, half for you!
115
00:06:24,000 --> 00:06:25,480
OK, look, here we go.
116
00:06:29,360 --> 00:06:31,720
Like you have a special oven
to make a pizza,
117
00:06:31,720 --> 00:06:34,640
this is a very special oven
just to make farinata.
118
00:06:34,640 --> 00:06:36,120
Wow, look, it's full of smoke.
119
00:06:36,120 --> 00:06:38,720
You need the flame because
it's going to glaze it
120
00:06:38,720 --> 00:06:41,520
and make it really crispy
and beautiful on top.
121
00:06:41,520 --> 00:06:43,720
It's beginning to bubble up.
122
00:06:46,360 --> 00:06:50,120
It looks to me like the burnt
surface of some dead planet.
123
00:06:50,120 --> 00:06:52,840
Yeah, like the sun,
when you see the sun on the thing,
124
00:06:52,840 --> 00:06:55,560
with all the exposure...
The smell is great.
125
00:07:05,080 --> 00:07:06,400
See how crispy it is?
126
00:07:09,560 --> 00:07:13,560
It's creamy on this side
and crunchy on the other side.
127
00:07:13,560 --> 00:07:15,360
Oh, delicious. Buona?
128
00:07:15,360 --> 00:07:17,280
Buonissimo.
129
00:07:22,320 --> 00:07:24,200
Si, si curo.
130
00:07:24,200 --> 00:07:27,520
When you're talking about fast food,
this is exactly what it's all about.
131
00:07:27,520 --> 00:07:30,240
You stop, you have one of these,
it's light, it's refreshing.
132
00:07:30,240 --> 00:07:32,760
I think it's slowed me down
a bit, you know! Did it?
133
00:07:32,760 --> 00:07:34,520
You eat three kilo of that,
that's why!
134
00:07:38,160 --> 00:07:40,000
'There is real vibrancy to Genoa.
135
00:07:40,000 --> 00:07:43,960
'It's a place where the old doesn't
overshadow the new and vice versa.
136
00:07:45,160 --> 00:07:47,120
'And the old can be pretty special,
137
00:07:47,120 --> 00:07:51,000
'as you can see at our last
destination, the Palazzo Rosso.'
138
00:07:57,320 --> 00:08:00,440
Here we actually get
to met the Genovese.
139
00:08:00,440 --> 00:08:03,280
These are the people,
these are the new merchants
140
00:08:03,280 --> 00:08:05,880
who think that they are kings.
And who is painting them?
141
00:08:05,880 --> 00:08:07,320
Anthony van Dyck.
142
00:08:07,320 --> 00:08:10,120
This is Anton Giulio Brignole Sale,
143
00:08:10,120 --> 00:08:13,680
a young member of the dynasty,
and his wife.
144
00:08:15,440 --> 00:08:17,680
But look how he has had
himself painted.
145
00:08:17,680 --> 00:08:21,040
Definitely looks like somebody
who has achieved something.
146
00:08:21,040 --> 00:08:24,760
And he's sitting on a horse,
which is a huge, bold symbol,
147
00:08:24,760 --> 00:08:28,280
because in the past you would
only ever depict the king
148
00:08:28,280 --> 00:08:32,760
on top of the horse. Right.
And the horse symbolises the people,
149
00:08:32,760 --> 00:08:35,920
symbolises the nation that
the king controls and rules.
150
00:08:35,920 --> 00:08:38,520
So this guy is saying to the world,
151
00:08:38,520 --> 00:08:41,560
"I'm not only a Genovese merchant,
I'm sort of a king."
152
00:08:41,560 --> 00:08:44,120
And here one of the things
that's quite interesting is that
153
00:08:44,120 --> 00:08:47,080
they're actually quite muted.
The colours are low,
154
00:08:47,080 --> 00:08:48,960
the expressions are quite reserved.
155
00:08:48,960 --> 00:08:51,000
They've got that sort of
Genovese reserve.
156
00:08:51,000 --> 00:08:53,520
They're not going, "Ha ha,
look at me." That's right, yeah.
157
00:08:53,520 --> 00:08:55,680
It looks like
two different paintings.
158
00:08:55,680 --> 00:08:58,320
Look at the bottom. It's not
really well finished, is it?
159
00:08:58,320 --> 00:09:00,840
Well, this is van Dyck's
sprezzatura, but you're right,
160
00:09:00,840 --> 00:09:03,560
it's like the famous
sketchiness of his handling.
161
00:09:03,560 --> 00:09:05,040
He would paint really quickly.
162
00:09:05,040 --> 00:09:06,560
But he's painted this so quickly
163
00:09:06,560 --> 00:09:09,280
that you can actually see
through the horse's leg.
164
00:09:09,280 --> 00:09:11,200
It's almost a sketch down here.
165
00:09:11,200 --> 00:09:15,160
Maybe because it was his last year
in Genoa, he finished it quickly.
166
00:09:15,160 --> 00:09:17,520
To cash up before he left.
To cash up.
167
00:09:17,520 --> 00:09:20,000
'Ah, here we are at last.
168
00:09:20,000 --> 00:09:22,480
'The painting I wanted
to show Giorgio.'
169
00:09:22,480 --> 00:09:24,200
The Cook.
170
00:09:24,200 --> 00:09:25,920
This is brilliant.
171
00:09:25,920 --> 00:09:27,840
This is one of these paintings
172
00:09:27,840 --> 00:09:30,200
that show us the engine room
of the palace.
173
00:09:30,200 --> 00:09:31,800
There's this new...
174
00:09:31,800 --> 00:09:33,960
Well, it just happens in the 1620s,
175
00:09:33,960 --> 00:09:38,040
they suddenly develop this taste for
having paintings of ordinary people,
176
00:09:38,040 --> 00:09:41,640
such as their own cooks,
their own servants.
177
00:09:41,640 --> 00:09:44,160
So we've had the upstairs,
and this is the downstairs.
178
00:09:45,160 --> 00:09:49,400
I love the birds. It's so beautiful.
Look at the turkey.
179
00:09:49,400 --> 00:09:52,080
I love the way
he's painted the fire.
180
00:09:52,080 --> 00:09:55,560
You know how you said the van Dyck
was very sketchy at the bottom?
181
00:09:55,560 --> 00:10:00,720
Well, he really admired van Dyck,
Strozzi, who painted this picture.
182
00:10:00,720 --> 00:10:03,440
And he painted that fire
with some of that...
183
00:10:05,000 --> 00:10:10,200
But I think it might be a painting
with a kind of secret double meaning.
184
00:10:11,200 --> 00:10:14,640
Cos Strozzi had been a capuchin monk,
185
00:10:14,640 --> 00:10:19,440
but he left the order and he got
into trouble with the Franciscans,
186
00:10:19,440 --> 00:10:25,600
who said that he had made himself
dirty with his paintbrush.
187
00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:29,040
There is something about this
picture that maybe suggests
188
00:10:29,040 --> 00:10:30,480
what they disapproved of.
189
00:10:30,480 --> 00:10:33,720
To me it looks as though
somebody's plucking a swan.
190
00:10:33,720 --> 00:10:35,880
There is a twinkle in her eye.
191
00:10:35,880 --> 00:10:40,000
I think the painting is meant to put
you in the place of the aristocrat
192
00:10:40,000 --> 00:10:42,160
who has come down to the kitchen,
193
00:10:42,160 --> 00:10:45,640
you've got a bit of a flirtation
going on with your kitchen maid,
194
00:10:45,640 --> 00:10:50,360
the way she meets your eyes,
the way she has that half-smile.
195
00:10:50,360 --> 00:10:53,200
The more you get back like that,
it really...
196
00:10:53,200 --> 00:10:55,520
like, she's just really
having a look at you.
197
00:10:55,520 --> 00:10:57,240
I think she fancies you.
198
00:10:57,240 --> 00:10:58,640
Come on!
199
00:11:04,640 --> 00:11:08,240
'Strozzi's cook would have been
preparing a luxurious banquet,
200
00:11:08,240 --> 00:11:10,600
'the opposite of what
I am going to cook -
201
00:11:10,600 --> 00:11:13,760
'a dish without any pretentions.
It's classless.
202
00:11:13,760 --> 00:11:16,400
'You can find it on
almost any family table,
203
00:11:16,400 --> 00:11:19,160
'not to mention renowned
restaurants across the world.'
204
00:11:21,040 --> 00:11:24,960
That is just fantastic. Do you want
to eat that or look at it?
205
00:11:24,960 --> 00:11:26,960
How much attention
do you think they pay
206
00:11:26,960 --> 00:11:30,800
to the arrangement of the colours,
cos I think...I mean, look at this.
207
00:11:30,800 --> 00:11:32,680
Isn't that fantastic?
208
00:11:32,680 --> 00:11:35,560
You don't need to eat that.
Well, we do need to eat it, maybe.
209
00:11:35,560 --> 00:11:40,280
'One of Liguria's best-loved
recipes is pesto alla Genovese.'
210
00:11:40,280 --> 00:11:43,480
Signore Franco, buongiorno.
Buongiorno.
211
00:11:57,680 --> 00:12:00,640
The shape of the leaf,
which is like a spoon.
212
00:12:00,640 --> 00:12:04,880
The main important thing about this
is the size of the leaf,
213
00:12:04,880 --> 00:12:08,840
because each of the leaf will
contain some chlorophyll
214
00:12:08,840 --> 00:12:10,760
that makes it really
green and beautiful.
215
00:12:10,760 --> 00:12:13,160
If you have big leaves,
you have a lot of other stuff.
216
00:12:13,160 --> 00:12:16,440
So it's more dispersed.
That's right. Smaller is the leaf,
217
00:12:16,440 --> 00:12:18,840
and better will be
the pesto at the end.
218
00:12:18,840 --> 00:12:19,960
How much do we need?
219
00:12:26,200 --> 00:12:29,440
One should be enough, but because
I know you, I'll buy three!
220
00:12:29,440 --> 00:12:30,640
THEY LAUGH
221
00:12:32,480 --> 00:12:35,040
He says, buy four,
then he is going to join us!
222
00:12:38,120 --> 00:12:39,320
A postissimo!
223
00:12:41,360 --> 00:12:43,520
OK. Grazie!
224
00:12:43,520 --> 00:12:45,640
Grazie. Arrivederci. Arrivederci!
225
00:12:49,840 --> 00:12:53,520
'We got a real sense of
this town today, with its art,
226
00:12:53,520 --> 00:12:56,360
'its little alleyways
and beautiful palaces.
227
00:12:56,360 --> 00:12:59,000
'It's time now to go
to make some pesto.'
228
00:13:01,680 --> 00:13:05,000
'Up here above Genoa's
maze of medieval alleys,
229
00:13:05,000 --> 00:13:07,480
'you can really see
how the whole city
230
00:13:07,480 --> 00:13:10,400
'faces towards the sea
and the harbour.'
231
00:13:11,920 --> 00:13:13,400
OK, Andrew, look.
232
00:13:13,400 --> 00:13:15,920
We got everything we need
to make a pesto.
233
00:13:15,920 --> 00:13:18,600
We are going to do one
with pine kernels.
234
00:13:18,600 --> 00:13:21,080
How many different
pesto recipes are there, then?
235
00:13:21,080 --> 00:13:23,280
There is no one fixed recipe.
236
00:13:23,280 --> 00:13:26,320
Some people put ricotta in it,
some people put almonds,
237
00:13:26,320 --> 00:13:29,280
some people put walnuts,
some people put pine kernels,
238
00:13:29,280 --> 00:13:30,760
so depends how you balance it.
239
00:13:30,760 --> 00:13:32,920
And obviously depends
as well what they have.
240
00:13:32,920 --> 00:13:35,920
Remember, this is not a cuisine
made of creativity.
241
00:13:35,920 --> 00:13:38,200
This is cuisine made of necessity.
242
00:13:38,200 --> 00:13:40,440
This is what they had,
that's what they cooked.
243
00:13:40,440 --> 00:13:43,000
The only thing that is
in common is the basil
244
00:13:43,000 --> 00:13:46,280
and there is olive oil.
And it's made in the mortar.
245
00:13:46,280 --> 00:13:48,520
OK, we are going to put
a bit of the pine...
246
00:13:51,560 --> 00:13:53,240
I want one of these at home.
247
00:13:53,240 --> 00:13:56,200
That is your next Christmas present.
248
00:13:56,200 --> 00:13:59,240
It's really good.
It's like stress relief.
249
00:13:59,240 --> 00:14:01,600
Let's start with the basil.
250
00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:08,680
Great smell. Yeah, definitely.
251
00:14:08,680 --> 00:14:16,040
Like you are convincing the leaf
to release its flavour.
252
00:14:16,040 --> 00:14:18,800
You have to convince it
to become a pesto.
253
00:14:18,800 --> 00:14:21,720
You are massaging it.
You are massaging it. Che bello.
254
00:14:23,360 --> 00:14:25,920
Now we have to put
the last two ingredients in.
255
00:14:25,920 --> 00:14:30,680
Parmigiano reggiano,
just gentle, caress it,
256
00:14:30,680 --> 00:14:34,320
and the olive oil, obviously
the olive oil from Liguria,
257
00:14:34,320 --> 00:14:38,400
almost like the olive oil
was made to taste so light
258
00:14:38,400 --> 00:14:41,480
and not, like, peppery
and not bitter.
259
00:14:41,480 --> 00:14:44,040
It's almost like the land
has produced this olive oil
260
00:14:44,040 --> 00:14:45,760
especially to make pesto.
261
00:14:47,240 --> 00:14:50,440
OK. A little bit. Come on, taste it.
262
00:14:56,080 --> 00:14:57,560
Ahhh! Season it?
263
00:14:57,560 --> 00:15:00,480
No! Good? No, it's perfect!
264
00:15:00,480 --> 00:15:01,880
All that fresh green growth.
265
00:15:01,880 --> 00:15:04,040
But you'll see as well
how they actually pesto.
266
00:15:04,040 --> 00:15:07,360
It breaks like that, it will
actually attach itself to the pasta,
267
00:15:07,360 --> 00:15:09,640
it will hang on the pasta,
kind of thing.
268
00:15:09,640 --> 00:15:13,840
The pasta will be, like, dirty
of these things when you eat it.
269
00:15:15,320 --> 00:15:18,720
'Pesto goes with any pasta,
but here in Liguria,
270
00:15:18,720 --> 00:15:21,520
'they like it with trofie,
some chopped potatoes
271
00:15:21,520 --> 00:15:22,960
'and a couple of green beans.'
272
00:15:28,360 --> 00:15:29,520
We are ready.
273
00:15:36,280 --> 00:15:38,560
OK. I've got the cheese. Andiamo.
274
00:15:41,120 --> 00:15:43,360
It's delicious. You made it, man.
275
00:15:43,360 --> 00:15:45,840
I made it, yeah(!)
THEY LAUGH
276
00:15:45,840 --> 00:15:49,120
I was the sous chef.
It's really good.
277
00:15:49,120 --> 00:15:51,960
The first thing we know about pesto
278
00:15:51,960 --> 00:15:56,760
is about in the cambusa
of Cristoforo Colombo.
279
00:15:56,760 --> 00:15:59,480
He was from Genova.
There is some paper
280
00:15:59,480 --> 00:16:03,000
that talks about a sort of pesto
that is called agliata.
281
00:16:03,000 --> 00:16:05,000
So it was a base of garlic,
282
00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:09,920
which obviously also was very good
for scurvy and all these things.
283
00:16:09,920 --> 00:16:14,480
So Genovese cuisine is genuinely
this cuisine of preserving food
284
00:16:14,480 --> 00:16:17,880
so you can travel for long
distances. Yes, exactly that.
285
00:16:17,880 --> 00:16:21,000
I like that thought -
pesto was the fuel
286
00:16:21,000 --> 00:16:24,120
that helped Christopher Columbus
to discover America!
287
00:16:24,120 --> 00:16:27,280
The key success of his
expeditions was the fact
288
00:16:27,280 --> 00:16:30,320
he could take some
good food with him.
289
00:16:30,320 --> 00:16:32,320
BOTH: Cristoforo Colombo.
290
00:16:41,040 --> 00:16:44,880
'It's time to say farewell
to old Genoa and its port,
291
00:16:44,880 --> 00:16:47,560
'but what better way to do that
than a drive that offers
292
00:16:47,560 --> 00:16:50,720
'one last glimpse
of the city from on high?'
293
00:16:54,080 --> 00:16:57,240
This extraordinary elevated road
294
00:16:57,240 --> 00:17:01,680
that runs right through
the middle of ancient Genoa.
295
00:17:02,760 --> 00:17:06,960
I love it. It makes the city into
a sort of drive-through experience.
296
00:17:06,960 --> 00:17:10,240
You cross palaces at the level
of the piano nobile.
297
00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:13,800
You pass straight directly beside...
298
00:17:14,920 --> 00:17:19,880
16th-century frescos of St George.
St Giorgio....killing the dragon.
299
00:17:19,880 --> 00:17:22,040
Can you see, there's a guy
having a shower in there.
300
00:17:22,040 --> 00:17:24,000
THEY LAUGH
301
00:17:24,000 --> 00:17:27,280
I think it also expresses
the determination of the Genoese
302
00:17:27,280 --> 00:17:30,120
not to turn their city into a museum.
That's right.
303
00:17:33,720 --> 00:17:36,400
'Before we head for
the wilds of Liguria,
304
00:17:36,400 --> 00:17:38,960
'we're going to stop off
to see some of the best
305
00:17:38,960 --> 00:17:42,880
'19th-century
realist sculptures in Italy.
306
00:17:42,880 --> 00:17:47,120
'They're housed, not in an
art gallery, but a cemetery.
307
00:17:47,120 --> 00:17:48,520
'Staglieno.'
308
00:17:50,360 --> 00:17:54,840
'Traditionally, ornate tombs were
the preserve of wealthy aristocrats,
309
00:17:54,840 --> 00:17:57,640
'but the prosperity
of the industrial revolution
310
00:17:57,640 --> 00:17:59,480
'changed all that.
311
00:17:59,480 --> 00:18:03,720
'Finally, ordinary working people
could afford them too.
312
00:18:03,720 --> 00:18:07,400
'And they wanted to be immortalised
down to the finest detail.'
313
00:18:09,160 --> 00:18:12,800
Look at these. Wow.
Absolutely amazing, isn't it?
314
00:18:12,800 --> 00:18:16,320
What I love about it
is this sort of combination
315
00:18:16,320 --> 00:18:19,240
of total realism
and the sort of idealism.
316
00:18:19,240 --> 00:18:22,960
That lady who could have stepped
straight out of a 19th-century
317
00:18:22,960 --> 00:18:28,120
ballroom, and she is being
whooshed up to heaven by an angel.
318
00:18:28,120 --> 00:18:31,320
Sort of beacons to the beyond.
319
00:18:32,960 --> 00:18:34,960
This is brilliant. Look at that.
320
00:18:34,960 --> 00:18:36,800
And then you've got...
321
00:18:36,800 --> 00:18:38,240
Look at that moustache!
322
00:18:38,240 --> 00:18:39,520
Giovanni Ratto.
323
00:18:40,760 --> 00:18:43,880
He is wonderful, and his clothes.
324
00:18:43,880 --> 00:18:48,080
What I love about it, it's almost
like a stone costume museum.
325
00:18:48,080 --> 00:18:50,560
If you want to see
what people wore in Genoa
326
00:18:50,560 --> 00:18:52,080
in the 19th century, this is it.
327
00:18:52,080 --> 00:18:54,560
I mean, he's got
a Charlie Chaplin hat! That's right.
328
00:18:54,560 --> 00:18:58,520
He almost looks like an Italian
version of Charlie Chaplin.
329
00:19:02,120 --> 00:19:05,040
Look at this one.
This is a complete scene.
330
00:19:05,040 --> 00:19:06,680
A deathbed scene.
331
00:19:09,400 --> 00:19:11,000
It's so touching.
332
00:19:12,360 --> 00:19:15,240
The sadness of the expression,
as well, isn't it?
333
00:19:15,240 --> 00:19:18,000
It's scenes from real life,
isn't it?
334
00:19:18,000 --> 00:19:21,320
Going to the cemetery is
still more of a tradition here.
335
00:19:21,320 --> 00:19:23,240
It's a very, very important thing.
336
00:19:23,240 --> 00:19:24,840
I remember when I was young,
337
00:19:24,840 --> 00:19:27,400
every week, we had to
go to the cemetery.
338
00:19:30,480 --> 00:19:33,280
'Staglieno occupies 250 acres.
339
00:19:33,280 --> 00:19:36,320
'It's one of the biggest
cemeteries in Italy,
340
00:19:36,320 --> 00:19:38,040
'and is still in use today.'
341
00:19:39,200 --> 00:19:42,520
Can you imagine? Look how big it is,
and how peaceful it is.
342
00:19:42,520 --> 00:19:44,640
This is like a city of the dead.
343
00:19:45,800 --> 00:19:48,280
'And one tomb here means
a great deal to me.
344
00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:52,480
'It belongs to the intellectual
father of the 19th-century movement
345
00:19:52,480 --> 00:19:54,480
'to unite Italy.
346
00:19:55,640 --> 00:19:58,720
'He was nicknamed
"the beating heart of Italy".'
347
00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:04,880
I wanted to come here. I have never
been here to visit these tombs.
348
00:20:04,880 --> 00:20:10,960
It's the tomb of Giuseppe Mazzini.
This guy was...so important
349
00:20:10,960 --> 00:20:15,200
because he believed on Italy
be united.
350
00:20:15,200 --> 00:20:19,680
His idea of this egalitarian
state as a republic.
351
00:20:19,680 --> 00:20:23,000
Mazzini was a real free thinker.
352
00:20:23,000 --> 00:20:26,440
When he made this revolution
movement in Italy,
353
00:20:26,440 --> 00:20:29,160
he was caught
and then he was sent in exile,
354
00:20:29,160 --> 00:20:33,080
so he decided to come to London.
Was he a friend of Karl Marx?
355
00:20:33,080 --> 00:20:36,520
He used to hang around with Karl
Marx, he used to hang around with
356
00:20:36,520 --> 00:20:40,840
Dickens, he'd hang around with a lot
of the intelligentsia of the moment.
357
00:20:40,840 --> 00:20:42,880
They used to pay him to go and talk.
358
00:20:42,880 --> 00:20:46,200
Apparently, he was an avid
drinker of coffee as well.
359
00:20:46,200 --> 00:20:49,000
His funeral was attended
by 100,000 people.
360
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:54,400
Can you imagine 100,000
people around here? Incredible.
361
00:20:54,400 --> 00:20:58,040
Is he one of your heroes?
Definitely.
362
00:21:01,320 --> 00:21:04,920
Mazzini was a real believer in
democracy and he spent his life
363
00:21:04,920 --> 00:21:07,360
promoting it in Italy
and across Europe.
364
00:21:12,000 --> 00:21:15,240
The 19th century was a period of
turmoil, involving both
365
00:21:15,240 --> 00:21:19,400
questions of national identity
and man's relationship with nature.
366
00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:26,160
The English Romantic poets loved
the rocky Ligurian coastline
367
00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:29,160
to the south of Genoa
called the Cinque Terre,
368
00:21:29,160 --> 00:21:33,040
and came here often from the 1820s.
369
00:21:37,880 --> 00:21:40,960
Around here, the best way
to travel is by boat.
370
00:21:44,360 --> 00:21:46,600
This region is so inaccessible that
371
00:21:46,600 --> 00:21:49,360
it remains almost unchanged
for centuries.
372
00:21:51,920 --> 00:21:57,080
I think what's interesting about this
area, is that it's not popular really
373
00:21:57,080 --> 00:22:00,560
among modern tourists. No.
You see, the thing is that,
374
00:22:00,560 --> 00:22:04,880
the more you go through now,
less is reachable by land.
375
00:22:04,880 --> 00:22:09,320
But in the 19th century, Byron,
Shelley, all the romantic poets,
376
00:22:09,320 --> 00:22:11,120
they loved it here
377
00:22:11,120 --> 00:22:14,240
because they had this idea that
nature should be wild,
378
00:22:14,240 --> 00:22:20,240
sublime, dangerous, stormy, turbulent
like the soul of the Romantic poetry.
379
00:22:20,240 --> 00:22:23,440
That's right.
In fact, Shelley even died here.
380
00:22:23,440 --> 00:22:26,160
It was that dangerous, he
actually died in a sea storm.
381
00:22:27,520 --> 00:22:31,960
Then you feel like you are actually
inside a Romantic painting
382
00:22:31,960 --> 00:22:37,400
with the distance, the blue horizons.
It's stunning.
383
00:22:39,280 --> 00:22:43,720
And then it opens up, until the city
just appears up there.
384
00:22:43,720 --> 00:22:49,040
Now you can start to see all
the terraces. Life was hard here.
385
00:22:49,040 --> 00:22:52,520
If you can imagine, it's not like
a paradise, as they say.
386
00:22:52,520 --> 00:22:55,240
Look at that.
Look at the way they work the land,
387
00:22:55,240 --> 00:22:57,240
metre by metre by metre.
388
00:22:57,240 --> 00:22:59,880
It's typical Ligurian things,
all the vegetable
389
00:22:59,880 --> 00:23:01,960
and fruit and things that we eat.
390
00:23:01,960 --> 00:23:04,760
So what a job to gather your harvest.
391
00:23:04,760 --> 00:23:07,720
You gather your harvest almost
like a rock climber.
392
00:23:12,000 --> 00:23:13,680
I'm fascinated by this unique
393
00:23:13,680 --> 00:23:17,360
relationship between the Ligurians
and their land.
394
00:23:17,360 --> 00:23:21,160
I can understand why the Romantics
were drawn to this place.
395
00:23:21,160 --> 00:23:25,280
Everything is uphill,
everything has got steps and stairs.
396
00:23:29,880 --> 00:23:32,840
This land doesn't
have any secrets for the locals.
397
00:23:32,840 --> 00:23:37,000
In the Ligurian cuisine, herbs that
grow wild find its way to the pot
398
00:23:37,000 --> 00:23:39,400
as well as any delicacies
bought in a shop.
399
00:23:41,520 --> 00:23:43,840
One of the nicest examples
is a dish that
400
00:23:43,840 --> 00:23:47,480
I am going to cook this evening and
it's called torta pasqualina.
401
00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:53,280
We've met up with Maria,
who has lived in these mountains
402
00:23:53,280 --> 00:23:57,120
all her life and knows where to find
the best herbs for our torta.
403
00:24:16,920 --> 00:24:18,480
She only knows the name in dialect,
404
00:24:18,480 --> 00:24:20,200
so...I don't know how
to translate it.
405
00:24:30,160 --> 00:24:33,920
This is my kind of shopping, Giorgio.
Yeah, for free, I know that.
406
00:24:36,880 --> 00:24:38,480
Grazie, Maria. Prego.
407
00:24:41,240 --> 00:24:43,240
Mmm! Que buono!
408
00:24:44,880 --> 00:24:46,600
It's a little bit like a radish.
409
00:24:46,600 --> 00:24:48,280
I think. A little bit like a radish?
410
00:24:48,280 --> 00:24:49,560
Yes, it does, yeah.
411
00:24:52,280 --> 00:24:54,240
You can make tagliatelle,
green tagliatelle
412
00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:57,160
like they do with spinach. You use
this actually in the flour? Yeah.
413
00:24:57,160 --> 00:25:00,000
They make a meal
out of the roots, they make a meal
414
00:25:00,000 --> 00:25:01,440
out of the leaves.
415
00:25:02,680 --> 00:25:06,080
So is this very local, specialised
knowledge of the local plants?
416
00:25:06,080 --> 00:25:07,120
Of course.
417
00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:17,600
Her grandmother teach her mother...
418
00:25:27,560 --> 00:25:29,080
She is 78 years old herself.
419
00:25:29,080 --> 00:25:31,320
Have you seen how she come up
those steps?
420
00:25:36,120 --> 00:25:40,480
What is amazing is that she still
gets excited about finding them.
421
00:25:40,480 --> 00:25:42,320
Grazie.
422
00:25:47,840 --> 00:25:51,800
Maria is amazing.
A one-woman herbal encyclopaedia.
423
00:25:51,800 --> 00:25:54,280
I think she should be made
a national treasure.
424
00:25:57,960 --> 00:26:01,440
And I couldn't be happier with
the herbs that she found for us.
425
00:26:02,960 --> 00:26:05,520
So where do you know this
recipe from, Giorgio?
426
00:26:05,520 --> 00:26:07,840
I came across it
when I was very young.
427
00:26:07,840 --> 00:26:12,040
I used to come down with my family
and we used to eat it in the bar.
428
00:26:12,040 --> 00:26:15,240
This is the food that I really love
when I come to Italy.
429
00:26:15,240 --> 00:26:19,160
It's actually this simplicity which
show the attachment
430
00:26:19,160 --> 00:26:22,400
and understanding of the land.
431
00:26:22,400 --> 00:26:27,080
We are eating food that was
gathered by Maria, who learnt it
432
00:26:27,080 --> 00:26:28,960
from her grandmother,
433
00:26:28,960 --> 00:26:33,080
so we are really touching history and
touching the Ligurian history.
434
00:26:33,080 --> 00:26:35,720
Andrew, I don't want the stem,
otherwise, we are going to
435
00:26:35,720 --> 00:26:37,760
feel it under our teeth.
Just the leaves.
436
00:26:37,760 --> 00:26:39,160
When I'm going to cook it,
437
00:26:39,160 --> 00:26:41,720
if I find any stalk,
you'll be severely beaten.
438
00:26:43,960 --> 00:26:46,320
Discipline
in the kitchen.
439
00:26:46,320 --> 00:26:49,280
Great, OK. Well, you won't find any
stalks, I promise you of that.
440
00:26:49,280 --> 00:26:54,360
What is fabulous about this is
the mixture that we've got of them
441
00:26:54,360 --> 00:26:58,800
will determine the flavour, so every
time or every different season,
442
00:26:58,800 --> 00:27:01,400
or every different village,
same recipe
443
00:27:01,400 --> 00:27:02,720
but with a different result.
444
00:27:04,560 --> 00:27:07,560
OK, Andrew, this is enough.
I'm going to go and do the cake.
445
00:27:08,600 --> 00:27:12,240
I'm going to read some poetry and
think about the nature of Liguria.
446
00:27:16,080 --> 00:27:20,280
It's not a complicated recipe, just
chopped herbs, ricotta and egg.
447
00:27:22,080 --> 00:27:23,720
This is creative cooking.
448
00:27:23,720 --> 00:27:27,440
People here had to find the best way
to combine the ingredients
449
00:27:27,440 --> 00:27:31,240
available at any one time -
with amazing results.
450
00:27:38,120 --> 00:27:41,240
Hey, Giorgio! Andrew!
451
00:27:41,240 --> 00:27:44,840
Everyone on the other
terraces have started to eat!
452
00:27:44,840 --> 00:27:48,880
OK, I'll bring you something.
I've got something for you, special.
453
00:27:48,880 --> 00:27:52,400
This bit of coast is famous
for its anchovies, so while
454
00:27:52,400 --> 00:27:55,840
the torta is baking, I've prepared
a delicious local aperitivo.
455
00:27:55,840 --> 00:28:01,920
Aha! We could not come to Liguria
456
00:28:01,920 --> 00:28:06,400
and not eat some of this
beautiful acciughe!
457
00:28:06,400 --> 00:28:12,400
Wow! Look, two different recipes.
These are boiled in a bouillon,
458
00:28:12,400 --> 00:28:15,520
which has got lemon and orange
in it.
459
00:28:15,520 --> 00:28:23,240
These ones are raw and are marinated
just with onions and lemon juice
460
00:28:23,240 --> 00:28:25,760
and then some oregano.
461
00:28:25,760 --> 00:28:29,440
These look great.
Do I eat it with a knife and fork?
462
00:28:29,440 --> 00:28:32,000
In reality, you should eat them
with your hands.
463
00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:35,280
This is the kind of the thing that
you will have if you go to a bar
464
00:28:35,280 --> 00:28:38,560
and you order an aperitif, or
something before your dinner.
465
00:28:38,560 --> 00:28:41,120
They don't bring you crisps
and nuts. Those are delicious.
466
00:28:42,880 --> 00:28:46,960
This is the raw one,
this is Ligurian sushi.
467
00:28:50,440 --> 00:28:51,480
Mmm!
468
00:28:53,280 --> 00:28:56,560
The raw ones, still taste
of the sea, isn't it?
469
00:28:56,560 --> 00:28:59,800
This is the taste of Liguria
for real. That's beautiful.
470
00:29:00,840 --> 00:29:02,720
I'm going to get the cake for you.
471
00:29:02,720 --> 00:29:06,480
Wow. Andrew!
472
00:29:10,520 --> 00:29:15,480
Mmm! The smell. As soon as you
cut it, the smell that comes up...
473
00:29:15,480 --> 00:29:18,520
What does it smell of?
It smells of... Liguria, no?
474
00:29:18,520 --> 00:29:21,560
Yes, it smells of herbs,
it smells of herbs. Ah, look.
475
00:29:23,840 --> 00:29:25,440
I'm really happy with that.
476
00:29:28,400 --> 00:29:34,800
Mmm! That is fantastic. It's like
eating a chunk of the landscape.
477
00:29:34,800 --> 00:29:37,280
It even looks like a chunk
of the landscape.
478
00:29:37,280 --> 00:29:43,600
It's got wonderful...fresh... And
I like the way it's sort of portable.
479
00:29:43,600 --> 00:29:46,640
You can carry that around, we'll
put it in the boot of the car.
480
00:29:46,640 --> 00:29:49,240
Can you imagine, some guys who went
out at sea
481
00:29:49,240 --> 00:29:52,320
would take a little piece of
that to remind him of the land?
482
00:29:52,320 --> 00:29:54,720
This is a portable piece of Liguria.
483
00:29:54,720 --> 00:29:58,960
Exactly, it reminds them of the
land. It's lovely, fantastic.
484
00:29:58,960 --> 00:30:01,760
I'm so glad that you like it.
I tell you what, you've done all
485
00:30:01,760 --> 00:30:05,320
the work, so I'm going to read you
a poem. This is written by Shelley
486
00:30:05,320 --> 00:30:08,080
as he was looking out across a
scene just like this,
487
00:30:08,080 --> 00:30:11,560
here on the Ligurian coast.
488
00:30:11,560 --> 00:30:16,200
"I sat and saw the vessels glide,
Over the ocean bright and wide,
489
00:30:16,200 --> 00:30:21,040
"Like spirit-winged chariots sent,
O'er some serenest element,
490
00:30:21,040 --> 00:30:23,560
"And the wind that
winged their flight,
491
00:30:23,560 --> 00:30:25,440
"From the land came fresh and light,
492
00:30:25,440 --> 00:30:30,040
"And the scent of winged flowers,
And the coolness of the hours
493
00:30:30,040 --> 00:30:33,040
"Of dew, and sweet warmth
left by day,
494
00:30:33,040 --> 00:30:35,800
"Were scattered o'er
the twinkling bay."
495
00:30:35,800 --> 00:30:37,320
Isn't that beautiful?
496
00:30:37,320 --> 00:30:38,360
Fantastic!
497
00:30:49,880 --> 00:30:55,000
Shelley moved close by in 1882,
soon to be joined by Lord Byron.
498
00:30:59,280 --> 00:31:03,160
I'm taking Giorgio to a particular
spot where Byron often came to
499
00:31:03,160 --> 00:31:07,280
contemplate nature and which inspired
some of his best-known poetry.
500
00:31:14,600 --> 00:31:15,800
Wow! That's a big cave.
501
00:31:15,800 --> 00:31:17,200
La Grotta della Poesia.
502
00:31:22,640 --> 00:31:27,120
I think something that's interesting
that coming here has made me
503
00:31:27,120 --> 00:31:31,120
doubly realise is that when the
Romantics came to Liguria,
504
00:31:31,120 --> 00:31:33,760
they were really the first generation
505
00:31:33,760 --> 00:31:37,920
of English tourists who
came not to see a church,
506
00:31:37,920 --> 00:31:42,440
not to see the Colosseum, not to see
the monuments of antiquity,
507
00:31:42,440 --> 00:31:47,680
but to try to touch raw,
real untamed nature.
508
00:31:47,680 --> 00:31:51,400
So they would...Byron would prefer
the monumentality of this cave.
509
00:31:51,400 --> 00:31:53,120
He was more interested in that
510
00:31:53,120 --> 00:31:57,640
than he was to see the great
temples of the classical past.
511
00:31:57,640 --> 00:32:01,080
So, practically what you are saying
is they are the first people
512
00:32:01,080 --> 00:32:04,320
who went out on what we call
"holiday".
513
00:32:04,320 --> 00:32:06,920
In the modern sense, yeah.
In the modern sense, yeah, yeah.
514
00:32:06,920 --> 00:32:12,400
To sort of pick up real life of
the place, the real flavour,
515
00:32:12,400 --> 00:32:13,840
the real taste
516
00:32:13,840 --> 00:32:18,520
and the real traditions of
the people that they went to visit.
517
00:32:18,520 --> 00:32:23,880
They were sick of civilisation,
sophistication, powdered wigs.
518
00:32:23,880 --> 00:32:28,640
In a sense, it's the beginning of the
idea of getting away from it all.
519
00:32:28,640 --> 00:32:31,800
Something that somehow feels more
simple, more pure, more true.
520
00:32:31,800 --> 00:32:37,760
This must be the craggiest, most
hostile, most wild bit of the entire
521
00:32:37,760 --> 00:32:43,400
Ligurian coastline and it's exactly
here that Byron used to swim.
522
00:32:43,400 --> 00:32:45,040
It's pretty awe-inspiring.
523
00:32:47,920 --> 00:32:51,680
And there is only one way truly to
share Byron's experience.
524
00:32:53,160 --> 00:32:57,080
Giorgio... Yeah. ..uno, due, tre.
525
00:33:04,120 --> 00:33:06,800
It's cold! Delicious!
526
00:33:06,800 --> 00:33:12,080
We are immersed now in the same
water that Byron
527
00:33:12,080 --> 00:33:17,160
was swimming and...
What is his name?
528
00:33:17,160 --> 00:33:20,400
Shelley. Let's go, come on.
That's the one you look like.
529
00:33:26,600 --> 00:33:30,640
By the time he came to Liguria, Byron
was already famous for his swimming.
530
00:33:31,760 --> 00:33:34,000
In fact,
he once told a friend that he was
531
00:33:34,000 --> 00:33:38,520
prouder of his long-distance swimming
exploits than he was of his poetry.
532
00:33:43,520 --> 00:33:46,440
Although I don't pride my swimming
over my cooking,
533
00:33:46,440 --> 00:33:51,360
enjoying such beautiful scenery
in this way is pretty unique.
534
00:33:51,360 --> 00:33:54,280
And what a wonderful way
to re-charge the batteries
535
00:33:54,280 --> 00:33:56,240
for the next
leg of our journey.
536
00:34:01,480 --> 00:34:03,000
We are halfway to Pisa
537
00:34:03,000 --> 00:34:07,000
and just across the border into
Tuscany are the quarries of Carrara,
538
00:34:07,000 --> 00:34:10,480
source of one of the materials which
made the Renaissance possible.
539
00:34:11,560 --> 00:34:15,480
Beneath the dramatic landscape,
all these hills are made of marble.
540
00:34:17,680 --> 00:34:20,720
For me, this is one of nature's
grandest cathedrals.
541
00:34:22,160 --> 00:34:27,800
Look at this. Fantastic!
I've never been this close.
542
00:34:27,800 --> 00:34:30,680
This is the birthplace of the
Italian Renaissance cos the
543
00:34:30,680 --> 00:34:33,200
Italian Renaissance begins
with sculpture
544
00:34:33,200 --> 00:34:36,760
and all the great sculpture was made
with marble from Carrara.
545
00:34:36,760 --> 00:34:38,760
We are really going up and up.
546
00:34:38,760 --> 00:34:42,200
When Michelangelo was going to carve
the tomb of Julius II,
547
00:34:42,200 --> 00:34:46,400
he spent nine months up in these
mountains. Doing what?
548
00:34:46,400 --> 00:34:47,960
Getting his own marble.
549
00:34:47,960 --> 00:34:51,120
Nowadays, artists don't even carve
their marble.
550
00:34:55,960 --> 00:34:58,800
It's all marble here, isn't it?
Look at the square.
551
00:34:58,800 --> 00:35:01,560
It cost less to do it in marble
than anything else.
552
00:35:01,560 --> 00:35:04,760
And the locals here have
come up with uses for marble
553
00:35:04,760 --> 00:35:07,040
that are pretty different from
sculpture.
554
00:35:15,200 --> 00:35:18,800
Andrew, it looks like a sarcophagus.
555
00:35:18,800 --> 00:35:21,440
Here is where he rests.
556
00:35:21,440 --> 00:35:23,360
This is the cemetery of lard.
557
00:35:32,960 --> 00:35:36,280
Wow. So what's inside of that,
lots of cuts of lard?
558
00:35:36,280 --> 00:35:41,400
That's lots of cuts of lard,
mixed with the herbs, the salt.
559
00:35:48,920 --> 00:35:51,640
At least six months.
The smell is...
560
00:35:54,960 --> 00:35:58,760
Mmm! It's amazing.
It smells very sweet.
561
00:35:58,760 --> 00:36:01,160
It's a little bit like prosciutto
but it's different.
562
00:36:01,160 --> 00:36:04,040
You can really smell the rosemary,
can't you? The rosemary,
563
00:36:04,040 --> 00:36:08,960
the garlic and the salt, and then
his secret recipe of spice.
564
00:36:13,680 --> 00:36:15,400
15 types of spices.
565
00:36:17,400 --> 00:36:20,240
Mmm! It smells very exotic.
566
00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:23,000
It smells to me
like the bazaars of Morocco.
567
00:36:23,000 --> 00:36:25,360
I feel like I'm almost in Tangier,
you know?
568
00:36:39,080 --> 00:36:41,440
The marble, on top of keeping
the coolness
569
00:36:41,440 --> 00:36:44,440
and the right temperature,
because you must think
570
00:36:44,440 --> 00:36:47,480
that this is a produce that comes
before refrigeration
571
00:36:47,480 --> 00:36:51,120
and then, you know,
there is this sort of like...
572
00:36:51,120 --> 00:36:52,880
perspiration that it has.
573
00:36:52,880 --> 00:36:55,840
It breathes, the marble breathes.
Exactly.
574
00:37:13,000 --> 00:37:15,640
Bene.
575
00:37:15,640 --> 00:37:20,600
OK. So how do you
recommend that we eat it, Giorgio?
576
00:37:20,600 --> 00:37:23,400
You know,
this is the way they eat it here.
577
00:37:23,400 --> 00:37:26,960
We'll just do some pieces of bread,
578
00:37:26,960 --> 00:37:31,440
put a little bit of onions on them.
579
00:37:31,440 --> 00:37:34,280
Nothing too complicated.
No, because the flavour is
580
00:37:34,280 --> 00:37:37,960
already there, you've got all the
spice. What is that, capers?
581
00:37:37,960 --> 00:37:40,280
That's capers with a bit
of onion in it,
582
00:37:40,280 --> 00:37:42,760
something to elevate
the flavour.
583
00:37:42,760 --> 00:37:45,240
Look how beautiful and pink.
584
00:37:45,240 --> 00:37:48,800
It almost reminds me of the vein
of the marble.
585
00:37:54,640 --> 00:37:57,960
Bizarrely it reminds me a little
bit of eating gravadlax,
586
00:37:57,960 --> 00:38:00,280
or sometimes smoked salmon,
with a bit of
587
00:38:00,280 --> 00:38:04,960
raw onions and capers, except here
it is smoked pig fat.
588
00:38:04,960 --> 00:38:09,640
You are now tasting the territory...
589
00:38:09,640 --> 00:38:13,960
real. We have arrived now
in Tuscany for real.
590
00:38:15,240 --> 00:38:18,560
It's true, it's beautiful.
That's what I like about this place.
591
00:38:18,560 --> 00:38:21,480
Everything is white, the walls are
white, even in here,
592
00:38:21,480 --> 00:38:24,840
everything is white. Outside
it's white, we are eating white.
593
00:38:28,280 --> 00:38:31,120
Now I want Giorgio to see
one of my favourite sculptures
594
00:38:31,120 --> 00:38:34,400
made from Carrara's
pure white marble.
595
00:38:34,400 --> 00:38:36,400
It's in the little town of Pistoia.
596
00:38:38,960 --> 00:38:41,320
Sandwiched between Pisa and
Florence,
597
00:38:41,320 --> 00:38:44,000
it's an easy mistake to
miss little Pistoia
598
00:38:44,000 --> 00:38:46,280
between those two
colossus of tourism.
599
00:38:51,200 --> 00:38:52,840
It's off the beaten track
600
00:38:52,840 --> 00:38:56,120
but it contains one of the gems
of early Renaissance art.
601
00:39:00,880 --> 00:39:04,560
The medieval Church of Sant'Andrea
was one of only two churches to
602
00:39:04,560 --> 00:39:06,280
enjoy baptismal rites here.
603
00:39:08,080 --> 00:39:09,840
That's why in the 13th century,
604
00:39:09,840 --> 00:39:14,360
Canon Arnoldus commissioned a pulpit
to be built in the baptistry.
605
00:39:19,600 --> 00:39:25,960
So, simple little church, Romanesque,
very old. Pre-Gothic construction.
606
00:39:25,960 --> 00:39:29,160
Simple arches. Beautiful grey stone.
607
00:39:31,080 --> 00:39:33,520
Incredible, the ceiling.
Look at how beautiful.
608
00:39:33,520 --> 00:39:35,320
The ceiling is lovely, isn't it?
609
00:39:37,360 --> 00:39:39,040
This is why I brought you here,
610
00:39:39,040 --> 00:39:43,480
because this is one of the great
things. It's the pulpit.
611
00:39:43,480 --> 00:39:47,640
No longer is used as a pulpit,
they have taken the stairs away.
612
00:39:47,640 --> 00:39:52,160
It is now considered too precious for
the priest even to stand up in.
613
00:39:52,160 --> 00:39:54,480
It is by Giovanni Pisano.
614
00:39:54,480 --> 00:39:59,240
Most tourists who come to Tuscany,
they have heard of Giotto,
615
00:39:59,240 --> 00:40:03,960
they've heard of Duccio, but they
haven't heard of Pisano
616
00:40:03,960 --> 00:40:08,000
and, in fact, he and the work
of his father,
617
00:40:08,000 --> 00:40:14,080
they actually come before Giotto and
Duccio. They are doing this...
618
00:40:14,080 --> 00:40:16,720
They inspired them.
They deeply inspired them
619
00:40:16,720 --> 00:40:18,600
and particularly Giotto.
620
00:40:18,600 --> 00:40:22,240
If you look at the frescoes
in the Arena Chapel, the figures
621
00:40:22,240 --> 00:40:27,640
look as though they have been
carved from stone and then painted.
622
00:40:27,640 --> 00:40:30,000
It's incredible from underneath,
Andrew.
623
00:40:30,000 --> 00:40:32,600
This is the Massacre
of the Innocents.
624
00:40:32,600 --> 00:40:37,360
So complicated. It is cut from
a single piece of marble.
625
00:40:37,360 --> 00:40:39,800
Just think how
complicated it is to do that.
626
00:40:39,800 --> 00:40:43,000
And the perspective
is just incredible.
627
00:40:43,000 --> 00:40:44,280
It is very emotional.
628
00:40:44,280 --> 00:40:48,840
Look at the weeping women and their
expressions are incredible.
629
00:40:48,840 --> 00:40:49,960
The Last Judgment.
630
00:40:53,080 --> 00:40:55,720
Look at the Devil down there,
he is eating the man.
631
00:40:55,720 --> 00:40:58,160
He's got his arms in his mouth.
632
00:40:58,160 --> 00:41:01,400
That's what happens to cooks
when they go to hell.
633
00:41:01,400 --> 00:41:04,400
To bad cooks.
To bad cooks.
634
00:41:04,400 --> 00:41:08,440
It's interesting the choice of
subjects that make the maximum drama,
635
00:41:08,440 --> 00:41:09,960
the maximum suffering.
636
00:41:09,960 --> 00:41:15,520
It might be white marble but you can
still sense the blood.
637
00:41:15,520 --> 00:41:16,760
Drenched with it.
638
00:41:17,920 --> 00:41:20,600
This is practical art. I mean,
you know...
639
00:41:20,600 --> 00:41:23,800
It's a message, a strong message
the people down here has to get.
640
00:41:23,800 --> 00:41:28,000
It's not only going to tell
a story, it's here to make them cry.
641
00:41:28,000 --> 00:41:31,040
It's a machine for making you
believe in God,
642
00:41:31,040 --> 00:41:33,680
this pulpit really,
that is what it is.
643
00:41:33,680 --> 00:41:39,320
The sculptors are the first artists
to really tell the stories of Christ
644
00:41:39,320 --> 00:41:43,960
in this vivid way that will
feed into the whole Renaissance.
645
00:41:43,960 --> 00:41:47,400
And so many things that
become part of Italian art,
646
00:41:47,400 --> 00:41:51,760
this is where they are invented,
by this man Giovanni Pisano,
647
00:41:51,760 --> 00:41:54,160
who really does deserve to
be more famous.
648
00:41:56,120 --> 00:41:58,400
You could look at the pulpit
a thousand times
649
00:41:58,400 --> 00:42:00,640
and still find new things to see.
650
00:42:02,560 --> 00:42:05,960
Pistoia definitely took me
by surprise.
651
00:42:05,960 --> 00:42:08,120
I think that if it was
in any other region,
652
00:42:08,120 --> 00:42:10,520
it would have been
invaded by tourists,
653
00:42:10,520 --> 00:42:13,200
like our next destination.
654
00:42:13,200 --> 00:42:17,120
So, Pisa, here we come. Another
great maritime power. I think
655
00:42:17,120 --> 00:42:20,000
we are on an alternative
version of the grand tour. You know,
656
00:42:20,000 --> 00:42:21,560
the aristocrats of the past,
657
00:42:21,560 --> 00:42:27,120
the English aristocracy used to go
to Rome, Florence, Venice.
658
00:42:27,120 --> 00:42:30,760
But we are doing something different.
The Tyrrhenian side of Italy,
659
00:42:30,760 --> 00:42:33,920
the power, much more powerful than
it was on the other side.
660
00:42:33,920 --> 00:42:37,360
You know, in the other side, the
Adriatic side, you only have Venice.
661
00:42:37,360 --> 00:42:40,440
Here you have Pisa
and you had Genova.
662
00:42:40,440 --> 00:42:44,320
So this area was much more open
for business. It's funny how
663
00:42:44,320 --> 00:42:48,800
it's fallen out of fashion. Pisa
seems to me to have the reputation
664
00:42:48,800 --> 00:42:52,520
among tourists of a place
that you only go to for the day,
665
00:42:52,520 --> 00:42:54,680
or maybe even just for the morning.
666
00:42:54,680 --> 00:42:56,920
You go and see the
Leaning Tower of Pisa,
667
00:42:56,920 --> 00:43:01,680
have a pizza and leave
and I think that's unfair.
668
00:43:01,680 --> 00:43:03,400
I think Pisa is more than that.
669
00:43:09,880 --> 00:43:12,880
In the 11th century,
Pisa ruled the waves.
670
00:43:12,880 --> 00:43:15,720
To reflect their maritime glory,
the Pisans built the four
671
00:43:15,720 --> 00:43:20,160
magnificent religious buildings that
together form the Campo Dei Miracoli.
672
00:43:21,240 --> 00:43:24,560
The marshy terrain of the area
turned one of its buildings,
673
00:43:24,560 --> 00:43:28,880
the Bell Tower, into the world's
most famous example of subsidence.
674
00:43:30,600 --> 00:43:33,200
Surprisingly for a
maritime republic,
675
00:43:33,200 --> 00:43:38,120
Pisa lies inland and the River Arno
became a vital artery connecting
676
00:43:38,120 --> 00:43:42,680
its port to the open sea.
There's no longer a port here
677
00:43:42,680 --> 00:43:46,200
and very little river traffic,
but it's still a great place
678
00:43:46,200 --> 00:43:47,880
to get a sense of the old city.
679
00:43:49,280 --> 00:43:52,760
Along these banks sits one of Pisa's
best kept secrets -
680
00:43:52,760 --> 00:43:54,600
the Museum of San Matteo.
681
00:43:57,440 --> 00:44:00,200
It's beautiful, but it's the middle
of the day,
682
00:44:00,200 --> 00:44:02,880
it's in high summer,
massive tourist season
683
00:44:02,880 --> 00:44:08,760
and it's completely, utterly empty.
This is one of the most
684
00:44:08,760 --> 00:44:11,240
beautiful small museums in the world!
685
00:44:14,240 --> 00:44:18,560
Wow! Andrew, this is incredible.
686
00:44:18,560 --> 00:44:22,320
It's actually rather sad.
What are they made of, wood?
687
00:44:22,320 --> 00:44:27,120
They are made of wood.
Wow. In a way, they are the sort of
688
00:44:27,120 --> 00:44:31,640
dead bodies left by Napoleon,
cos when he came to Pisa in
689
00:44:31,640 --> 00:44:36,000
the early 19th century, he ransacked
all the monasteries and the convents.
690
00:44:36,000 --> 00:44:40,560
They saved what they could and
all these beautiful wooden statues,
691
00:44:40,560 --> 00:44:42,240
they generally show the Madonna
692
00:44:42,240 --> 00:44:45,320
receiving the Annunciation,
the news that she is pregnant.
693
00:44:45,320 --> 00:44:46,560
It's so beautiful.
694
00:44:48,760 --> 00:44:50,040
So beautiful, isn't it?
695
00:44:50,040 --> 00:44:52,800
This is really, really
fantastic.
696
00:44:54,040 --> 00:44:55,400
It's by Simone Martini,
697
00:44:55,400 --> 00:44:59,320
who's one of the great painters
of Siena along with Duccio.
698
00:44:59,320 --> 00:45:05,320
One of the most fantastic panels
in all of 14th-century Italian art.
699
00:45:05,320 --> 00:45:07,720
The jewel
looks like it's shining.
700
00:45:07,720 --> 00:45:12,760
I think they are actually real pieces
of glass. Oh, right. That's why.
701
00:45:12,760 --> 00:45:17,200
I also think it's an object
that reminds us how rich
702
00:45:17,200 --> 00:45:24,560
they were in Pisa when the city was
at its height as a maritime power.
703
00:45:24,560 --> 00:45:29,480
Look at the gold leaf on that,
look at the use of lapis lazuli.
704
00:45:29,480 --> 00:45:33,240
I mean, it's not just a beautiful
painting, it's a huge status symbol.
705
00:45:35,040 --> 00:45:38,480
But what I really came here to see
were these works of art.
706
00:45:39,920 --> 00:45:43,960
It's really an exceptional room
this one. It is incredible.
707
00:45:43,960 --> 00:45:45,480
Exceptional.
708
00:45:45,480 --> 00:45:51,880
For me, it's one of the most
effecting rooms in any of
709
00:45:51,880 --> 00:45:56,120
Italy's Pinacoteca, public museums.
You can travel through history
710
00:45:56,120 --> 00:46:03,240
to see how the Crucifixion changed
in Pisan art and in Italian art.
711
00:46:03,240 --> 00:46:05,560
And it's a huge change,
it's one of the great
712
00:46:05,560 --> 00:46:08,920
changes in Western art
that takes place here.
713
00:46:08,920 --> 00:46:15,000
Right. Here we've got the
12th century, so the 1100s,
714
00:46:15,000 --> 00:46:19,200
and this is what we call
the Christus triumphans.
715
00:46:19,200 --> 00:46:21,080
Christ triumphant on the cross.
716
00:46:21,080 --> 00:46:24,720
Comfortable. Comfortable,
he is triumphing over death.
717
00:46:24,720 --> 00:46:30,800
His anatomy, relatively unscathed,
he doesn't look tormented, troubled.
718
00:46:32,560 --> 00:46:36,720
Now here, this is the great shift.
719
00:46:36,720 --> 00:46:38,840
Here we now have what I think of as
720
00:46:38,840 --> 00:46:41,840
the very, very beginning
of the Renaissance.
721
00:46:41,840 --> 00:46:47,480
Christ as a real man, feeling real
pain, his body is bleeding.
722
00:46:49,400 --> 00:46:52,200
His face is full of pain
and sadness.
723
00:46:54,120 --> 00:46:55,840
And if we keep coming round...
724
00:46:57,480 --> 00:46:59,120
..this is by Giunta Pisano.
725
00:47:01,840 --> 00:47:04,440
The body is kind of
contorted in the pain,
726
00:47:04,440 --> 00:47:06,240
and the blood is spilling down.
727
00:47:08,000 --> 00:47:11,480
Without a shadow, much more pain.
728
00:47:11,480 --> 00:47:13,960
There is that sense
almost of desperation.
729
00:47:15,720 --> 00:47:18,960
This is the moment
when art begins to bleed.
730
00:47:20,920 --> 00:47:24,360
More human. More human.
That's right, so you can see
731
00:47:24,360 --> 00:47:27,480
yourself in there. You can see
yourself, and I think the whole
732
00:47:27,480 --> 00:47:30,520
of the rest of the Renaissance,
with its ideal of realism,
733
00:47:30,520 --> 00:47:33,200
making it real, making you feel like
you are there,
734
00:47:33,200 --> 00:47:35,800
I think this is where
it comes from.
735
00:47:39,880 --> 00:47:42,360
So for all the glory
of the Leaning Tower,
736
00:47:42,360 --> 00:47:44,280
there's definitely more to Pisa.
737
00:47:49,240 --> 00:47:52,880
Nowadays, Pisa is more of a tourist
attraction than a sea power,
738
00:47:52,880 --> 00:47:57,800
but further south is a town
whose historic port has survived
and thrived,
739
00:47:57,800 --> 00:48:00,200
and where they have wonderful fish.
740
00:48:00,200 --> 00:48:05,800
Livorno is not exactly classic
Tuscany but it has its charms.
741
00:48:08,200 --> 00:48:11,880
It's actually rather more
beautiful than I expected it to be.
742
00:48:11,880 --> 00:48:14,440
I mean, yes, there is a lot of modern
mixed up with the old,
743
00:48:14,440 --> 00:48:16,440
but I like that.
744
00:48:16,440 --> 00:48:19,880
It's a place that has
this kind of truthfulness to that
745
00:48:19,880 --> 00:48:22,160
and its food is like that.
746
00:48:23,920 --> 00:48:25,920
This town has an eventful history.
747
00:48:27,120 --> 00:48:30,840
The port was already well
established in medieval times.
748
00:48:30,840 --> 00:48:36,360
Florence bought it from Genoa in
1421 and it became a free port
749
00:48:36,360 --> 00:48:39,760
under the Medici in the
16th century.
750
00:48:39,760 --> 00:48:43,160
The Medici allowed the Jews to
trade here and there was a strong
751
00:48:43,160 --> 00:48:47,920
British community too, who anglicised
the named to Leghorn.
752
00:48:47,920 --> 00:48:51,400
Shelley was sailing from here to
the Cinque Terre in 1822
753
00:48:51,400 --> 00:48:54,600
when his schooner sank
and he drowned.
754
00:48:54,600 --> 00:48:59,560
The reason I wanted to come here
is for Livorno's signature dish -
755
00:48:59,560 --> 00:49:02,280
caciucco, an earthy fish stew.
756
00:49:02,280 --> 00:49:04,560
The taste of the sea couldn't be
more appropriate
757
00:49:04,560 --> 00:49:07,160
for the end of our journey.
758
00:49:07,160 --> 00:49:10,880
What is amazing is the variety.
The variety is important.
759
00:49:10,880 --> 00:49:15,560
Variety makes colourful recipes,
colourful cooking.
760
00:49:15,560 --> 00:49:20,320
It's not one thing. Should we have
a coffee? Yeah. I need a coffee.
761
00:49:20,320 --> 00:49:22,200
Buongiorno. Un cafe.
762
00:49:22,200 --> 00:49:26,120
I love this. I think this
is a '60s coffee bar.
763
00:49:26,120 --> 00:49:29,880
In fact, I love the whole place,
I love the...
764
00:49:29,880 --> 00:49:32,080
I just love the way
the people are here.
765
00:49:32,080 --> 00:49:35,320
It's almost like the faces
you see in Italian paintings.
766
00:49:35,320 --> 00:49:40,880
I think it's got to do with the
social way, food is part of society,
767
00:49:40,880 --> 00:49:44,800
so this is like, you have a church
or a cathedral to go and pray,
768
00:49:44,800 --> 00:49:47,480
you've got the biggest building
in town is where you
769
00:49:47,480 --> 00:49:51,440
get your food. It's communal.
With the herbs in Liguria, here you
770
00:49:51,440 --> 00:49:54,720
have the same thing. You have to try
to balance the flavour of the fish.
771
00:49:54,720 --> 00:49:59,560
You have to have a knowledge of
what the fish will add to your soup.
772
00:49:59,560 --> 00:50:03,280
Like you were saying that you don't
put too much rucola in your herb pie.
773
00:50:03,280 --> 00:50:06,320
You have to balance it.
This is very, very important.
774
00:50:06,320 --> 00:50:09,240
How many kinds of fish do you
think you'll end up with?
775
00:50:09,240 --> 00:50:13,040
Traditionally, you should have
17 different types of fish.
776
00:50:13,040 --> 00:50:16,840
I don't think we are going to
achieve that, but we'll definitely
have between ten and 12.
777
00:50:16,840 --> 00:50:17,880
It's also seasonal.
778
00:50:17,880 --> 00:50:20,960
I think when I'm going to go around
buying the fish, I'd like to go
779
00:50:20,960 --> 00:50:23,480
by myself because I'm going
to get a better price.
780
00:50:23,480 --> 00:50:26,720
With an English guy I'll get double
the price. Yeah, OK, good point.
781
00:50:26,720 --> 00:50:30,080
I'll leave you to it. No, no, no.
You have to pay for the coffee.
782
00:50:30,080 --> 00:50:33,720
I'll leave you the money to pay...
No, no, no. You pay for the coffee.
783
00:50:33,720 --> 00:50:37,240
Ciao, Giorgio. See you later.
See you later.
784
00:50:56,480 --> 00:50:58,680
It's never the same.
Never, never the same.
785
00:51:06,720 --> 00:51:09,680
So calamari, that is the base.
786
00:51:09,680 --> 00:51:12,360
OK. This is so beautiful!
787
00:51:21,960 --> 00:51:25,160
Boccacia! I don't know
the name of this in English.
788
00:51:25,160 --> 00:51:26,960
Two nice slice of this palumbo.
789
00:51:30,400 --> 00:51:32,040
OK, perfetto.
790
00:51:32,040 --> 00:51:35,000
These are all fish that gets thrown
away in England,
791
00:51:35,000 --> 00:51:36,680
this never makes it to the market.
792
00:51:36,680 --> 00:51:39,240
We don't kind of have the culture
of using something like that
793
00:51:39,240 --> 00:51:41,920
to make into a soup,
which is incredible.
794
00:51:49,200 --> 00:51:54,080
Oh, look at that! This doesn't need
to be cooked. It's so beautiful!
795
00:51:54,080 --> 00:51:57,160
Grazie. Grazie.
Arrivederci. Arrivederci.
796
00:51:58,400 --> 00:52:00,720
Such fresh fish is
a real treat,
797
00:52:00,720 --> 00:52:03,120
and I can't wait to see what
it tastes like.
798
00:52:07,800 --> 00:52:11,520
What better setting to cook our
fish than the Ristorante Aragosta
799
00:52:11,520 --> 00:52:14,880
in the old port, where customers
really know their catch.
800
00:52:18,280 --> 00:52:21,320
Here, chef Michelangelo is
renowned for his caciucco
801
00:52:21,320 --> 00:52:23,800
and has very kindly lent me
his kitchen.
802
00:52:28,880 --> 00:52:31,000
Extra virgin olive oil
from Tuscany.
803
00:52:40,400 --> 00:52:43,280
This is the octopus?
This is the octopus,
804
00:52:43,280 --> 00:52:44,520
calamari and sepia.
805
00:52:49,640 --> 00:52:54,880
This is the ONLY fish soup
that goes with red wine.
806
00:52:54,880 --> 00:52:58,520
Vino rosso. That's why you
justify as well the chilli in it.
807
00:52:58,520 --> 00:53:01,240
The chilli and the red wine will
work well together.
808
00:53:04,600 --> 00:53:06,600
Tomato.
809
00:53:06,600 --> 00:53:08,480
He wants it really red.
810
00:53:08,480 --> 00:53:11,600
What's the next stage, Giorgio?
The next stage is to use
811
00:53:11,600 --> 00:53:14,440
some of the fish stock
and we just bring it up to boil.
812
00:53:14,440 --> 00:53:17,760
Then we like to really cook it.
At least 40 minutes.
813
00:53:19,280 --> 00:53:22,760
The octopus, calamari, everything
will be so, like...
814
00:53:22,760 --> 00:53:25,240
they will be breaking in your mouth,
really well done.
815
00:53:27,920 --> 00:53:29,920
OK, Andrew...
816
00:53:29,920 --> 00:53:33,440
you remember there's all this fish
going in, it'll go down.
817
00:53:33,440 --> 00:53:34,840
So that is just the base.
818
00:53:36,880 --> 00:53:41,440
OK. So they go in whole?
819
00:53:41,440 --> 00:53:45,480
Yeah. How long does that all cook
for then? Cinque minuti.
820
00:53:45,480 --> 00:53:48,280
Five minutes, no more than
five minutes. Solo cinque?
821
00:53:48,280 --> 00:53:53,280
OK. This is the most
important bit.
822
00:53:53,280 --> 00:53:55,720
You've got some garlic
and you got some...
823
00:53:55,720 --> 00:53:58,480
So you rub toasted bread with
garlic and put that as the base?
824
00:53:58,480 --> 00:53:59,760
You put that as the base.
825
00:54:05,960 --> 00:54:12,440
Mmm! Buonissimo! Buonissimo!
826
00:54:12,440 --> 00:54:15,280
Fantastic! It's almost like,
you know...
827
00:54:15,280 --> 00:54:19,400
It's not gritty but it's got that
substance to it, that body.
828
00:54:23,600 --> 00:54:24,640
Mmm! Que bello!
829
00:54:33,640 --> 00:54:36,680
If the poor eat like that,
I want to be poor all my life!
830
00:54:48,840 --> 00:54:51,040
'Caciucco is always
made in large quantities,
831
00:54:51,040 --> 00:54:54,200
'so it only seems fair to enjoy it
in the company
832
00:54:54,200 --> 00:54:56,480
'of the restaurant staff.'
833
00:54:56,480 --> 00:54:58,320
Buon appetito. Buon appetito.
834
00:54:58,320 --> 00:55:00,280
What happens now?
You just attack it.
835
00:55:00,280 --> 00:55:01,320
Ladies first.
836
00:55:07,520 --> 00:55:10,280
You can get a little bit
of the sauce.
837
00:55:10,280 --> 00:55:11,600
Well done, Giorgio.
838
00:55:13,480 --> 00:55:16,280
Wow! Delicious! Delicious!
839
00:55:16,280 --> 00:55:18,680
People food for the people.
840
00:55:18,680 --> 00:55:22,240
You don't need anything else, do you?
You just need a bit of time
841
00:55:22,240 --> 00:55:25,360
and a little bit of passion.
842
00:55:25,360 --> 00:55:30,240
I'm eating with my fingers as usual.
This is not a polite dish to eat.
843
00:55:41,600 --> 00:55:43,640
It's really nice the way that
the fish,
844
00:55:43,640 --> 00:55:45,680
each one keeps its
separate flavour.
845
00:55:45,680 --> 00:55:47,800
This is so, like,
special about it.
846
00:55:56,960 --> 00:56:00,560
What an amazing dish. I love
the fact that it is all seasonal.
847
00:56:02,160 --> 00:56:05,520
Just like in Liguria, the locals
here have a strong relationship
848
00:56:05,520 --> 00:56:08,480
with their surroundings.
It's the land or the sea
849
00:56:08,480 --> 00:56:11,080
that dictates the recipe
and not vice-versa.
850
00:56:14,120 --> 00:56:17,520
Andrew, look at that.
This is the Tyrrhenian sea.
851
00:56:17,520 --> 00:56:21,120
Can you imagine here, like hundreds
of years ago when the maritime
852
00:56:21,120 --> 00:56:24,760
republics were fighting off,
it must've been so busy.
853
00:56:24,760 --> 00:56:28,520
All these galleons, invaders,
the Spanish, the French
854
00:56:28,520 --> 00:56:32,240
were all here, duelling
out in this bit of sea,
855
00:56:32,240 --> 00:56:34,880
which now looks much more
quiet, isn't it?
856
00:56:34,880 --> 00:56:37,960
It feels like a part of Italy that
the world's left behind.
857
00:56:37,960 --> 00:56:40,160
I feel like we've been going
much against the flow,
858
00:56:40,160 --> 00:56:44,360
travelling this way, coming to
Livorno. There's not a single tourist
859
00:56:44,360 --> 00:56:49,000
in Livorno that I can see.
Just fishermen, chefs.
860
00:56:49,000 --> 00:56:51,800
I like that! I love that... Lots of
women and men in the market...
861
00:56:51,800 --> 00:56:54,640
Yeah, I like it. It looks
really like a real town, you know.
862
00:56:54,640 --> 00:56:56,520
You really get the flavour of it.
863
00:56:56,520 --> 00:57:00,040
I also really liked
the Ligurian coast,
864
00:57:00,040 --> 00:57:03,720
the wildness of it,
the lack of development.
865
00:57:03,720 --> 00:57:06,840
You know, that sense that you could
really feel that
866
00:57:06,840 --> 00:57:09,760
you were in the landscape that
hasn't changed
867
00:57:09,760 --> 00:57:11,720
for more than a thousand years,
868
00:57:11,720 --> 00:57:14,200
and I love Maria. I love Maria
869
00:57:14,200 --> 00:57:18,360
picking the herbs with the energy
of a six-year-old.
870
00:57:18,360 --> 00:57:21,720
Maria was incredible. What about
the art that we have seen?
871
00:57:21,720 --> 00:57:26,280
Definitely was the pulpit in
Pistoia. That was unbelievably
beautiful.
872
00:57:26,280 --> 00:57:29,320
I'm struck by the very strong
connection between the territory
873
00:57:29,320 --> 00:57:31,320
and the art traditions
of the territory.
874
00:57:31,320 --> 00:57:36,560
So you've got Carrara, that great
quarry just up there in the hills.
875
00:57:36,560 --> 00:57:43,040
Expertise in carving seems sort
of built in here. It's incredible.
876
00:57:43,040 --> 00:57:46,360
Those wooden crosses.
There is something very immediate
877
00:57:46,360 --> 00:57:50,440
about the art here. To me the wooden
crosses are like the caciucco.
878
00:57:50,440 --> 00:57:54,120
They hit you in the face, you know,
there is this absolutely blatant...
879
00:57:54,120 --> 00:57:57,520
It's the art of the poor,
the food of the poor.
880
00:57:57,520 --> 00:57:59,960
Just as much as on our other
journeys, I feel like we've touched
881
00:57:59,960 --> 00:58:01,840
something right at the centre
of Italy here,
882
00:58:01,840 --> 00:58:04,520
even though we have been on the edge.
Yes. You know what I mean?
883
00:58:04,520 --> 00:58:08,120
That's right.
Italy has got so much coastline.
884
00:58:08,120 --> 00:58:11,640
So the coastline
is as important as the centre.
885
00:58:11,640 --> 00:58:15,200
This is where the fusion of culture
really happens.
886
00:58:15,200 --> 00:58:17,480
Come, let's go.
I'll take you to Lazio.
887
00:58:17,480 --> 00:58:19,760
So in Lazio you have to learn
one thing.
888
00:58:19,760 --> 00:58:22,360
In order to get anything,
you have to say, "Aho!"
889
00:58:22,360 --> 00:58:23,960
Aho!
76980
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