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I'm Andrew Graham Dickson
and I'm an art historian.
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I'm Giorgio Locatelli
and I'm a chef.
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00:00:09,360 --> 00:00:13,200
We are both passionate
about my homeland, Italy.
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The smells, the colour, this is what
food is all about for me.
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The rich flavours and classic dishes
of this land are in my culinary DNA.
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And this country's rich
layers of art
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and history have captivated me
since childhood.
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It's enough to make you feel as if
you are being whirled up to heaven.
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We're stepping off the tourist track
and exploring Italy's
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Northern regions of Emilia-Romagna,
Lombardy and Piedmont.
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It's part of Italy that's often
overlooked, but it drives
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the whole country and I want to
show off its classic dishes.
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Not to mention its hidden legacy
of artist, designers, intellectuals.
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Wow, this is incredible.
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This week we are in Lombardy,
where I grew up.
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I can't wait to introduce Andrew to
the hearty Lombardy food of my youth.
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We'll also enjoy the ingenious art
and thrilling design that
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reveal how this region really is
the motor of Italy.
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Lombardy may not be the most
exotic region in Italy,
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but, for me, it's special.
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Bordering Switzerland, we are closer
here to Zurich than Rome.
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There is only one place to
start our journey,
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my home town of Corgeno,
by Lake Maggiore.
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I've cooked for Andrew many
times at my restaurant,
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but I'm taking him to where it all
started, Casa Locatelli.
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Mama, Papa.
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Oh, ciao, Mama.
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Small daddy, he's a small daddy.
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He used to be bigger than me,
but now he's...
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Ferruccio.
Pinuccia and Ferruccio.
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No, I'll remember,
I'll remember. I'm hungry.
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'We're here for lunch
and polenta's on the menu.'
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You see, what happens here is,
my mum runs the kitchen
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and even when I come home,
I'm not allowed to cook.
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So she cooks all the time.
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An exception is made for polenta.
Polenta is a man thing.
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So my dad, as you can see, he's
ready with his apron.
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So we're going to leave my mum here.
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No. No, no, we do
it on the fire on the garden.
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So we're going to cook the polenta
downstairs. Let's go.
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SHE SPEAKS ITALIAN
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It has to taste of smoke,
otherwise, it's not good.
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Even though she's the captain
of the kitchen,
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she's still telling you how to
do the polenta.
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She's got to prepare the mushroom
and the thing
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and we go and do the polenta.
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'Polenta, made from ground maize,
really is the pasta of the north.
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'In fact, the southerners call us
Lombards, Polentoni,
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'because we eat so much
of the stuff.'
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OK, you see, it's the most simple
thing. You know, you just need a fire
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and a paiolo, which is this like
cast iron, and then copper inside.
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And so, I remember when I was little
I used to see all the shepherds
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going around with their
flocks, and they had the donkey
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and on the donkey they will have
the paiolo on the back.
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So that would actually make
polenta in the field? That's right.
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On the open fire? That's why you
make it on the open fire.
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During the war, that was
the only thing that they had,
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polenta and when the partisan,
which were striving here,
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you know it's like lost... The
heroes? The heroes. That lived in
the woods.
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Yeah, you know
they were living in the woods.
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They'll camp, you're duty as a,
somebody that
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didn't like the Fascists,
obviously, at that point
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was to give half of your
polenta to them.
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A beautiful colour!
It's like saffron or something.
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Beautiful yellow. This is Roberto
This is your... This is my brother.
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This is your brother.
You look exactly, nothing like you.
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No, he's been training how to do
polenta for the last 20 years.
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Who's the older brother?
He is.
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And he's the one that's getting
all the training.
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I'm just been around just doing
Michelin starred food.
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You know, something not very
important.
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I'm hungry.
Is this the moment of truth?
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This is the most important moment.
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The man job is done,
now we've got to go upstairs
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and see what the girls
have managed to... Fantastic.
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00:05:03,360 --> 00:05:04,720
..Rustle up.
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I like the way, I like the way it's
all swaddled up like a baby.
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While we were making the polenta,
my mum was busy whipping up
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a meaty brochette and some
delicious porcini mushrooms.
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Come, sit down.
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'This is the kind of food that
ignited my love affair with cooking.
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'Hearty and simple,
just the way I like it.'
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Wow. Look at the lake.
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Eh, and eat the polenta. Now
you are full emersion.
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You smell it? This woody smell.
Mmm..
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You see how the flavours are
so settled, so...? Mellow, gentle.
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Mellow, gentle.
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Almost like it reflects
the personality of the people.
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Here, the people are a bit
more mellow,
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and the nature determine what the
people eat, but it almost
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looks like you almost determine
the character of the people.
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Having visited Giorgio's home, it's
only reinforced my sense of how
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strong an influence his earthy
Lombard roots have had on him.
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But there are still sides to this
region he doesn't know.
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Lombardy is a treasure
trove of surprising little known
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works of art, and near the town
of Bergamo there's a fascinating
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masterpiece Giorgio has
never seen before.
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Just a few miles from where you
live, there's this chapel attached
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to a grand house, and inside the
chapel is one of the most
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extraordinary weird fresco
cycles of the whole Renaissance.
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Right.
By an artist called Lorenzo Lotto.
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Right. It's absolutely bizarre.
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He's like the Renaissance version
of Magritte or Salvador Dali. OK.
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The frescos he created here in 1524
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were commissioned for the private
chapel of the Suardi family,
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one of the oldest
and most influential in the region.
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The chapel isn't usually
opened to the public,
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but the family have kindly
agreed to let us in.
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Same. The same family from the time,
so from the time of Lorenzo Lotto,
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500 years later,
still the same family.
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Oh, that's fantastic.
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Originally, the Suardis
didn't reserve the chapel
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for their own exclusive use.
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Ordinary people who lived locally
were encouraged to worship here.
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The works of art inside plunge you
back to 16th-century Lombardy,
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a world in the grip
of the Reformation.
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What do you think of this
extraordinary weird image?
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Yeah, it's like this
fingers, isn't it?
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It's very weird, surreal isn't it?
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It's absolutely surreal.
Christ in need of a manicure.
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He's got these strange...it reminds
me of that German story
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Struwwelpeter, the boy who
lets his nails grow for ever.
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If you look, you see there's a
little clue at the top
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actually to what's going on.
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Lorenzo Lotto is the only painter
who took that line from the Bible.
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Ego sum vitis vos palmites.
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I am the vine
and you are the branches.
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And he turned it into this
extraordinary image.
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What are all these image up there?
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You've got saints growing
in the...the whirls
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and the curls of this
vine as it reaches up.
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But although it's so striking
as an image,
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you mustn't think of it as a single
scene, cos it's not.
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It's actually like a comic book.
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And what it tells is this very
bloody story of Saint Barbara,
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Santa Barbara, and she is the
daughter of Dioscoro,
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this evil pagan.
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And he wants to marry her off,
but he wants her to be a virgin,
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so he locks her into this tower.
as he goes off on his travels. OK.
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What he doesn't know, is that
when she's in the tower,
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Christ visits her,
gives her a vision,
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she converts to Christianity.
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There she is kneeling, praying
outside the tower,
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always accompanied by this
lovely little white dog with her.
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Yeah, the dog is there.
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And now this is where the story gets
bloody and turns nasty.
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Dioscoro, her father, has come back
and there he is saying,
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"Now's the time for you to
get married."
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And she points up to
heaven and says,
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"No, I'm not going to marry any man,
I have become a bride of Christ."
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Now he has her tortured.
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He got her.
Look, he's carrying her...
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He's got her hair there.
He's dragging her by her hair.
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Dragging her.
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And it gets really nasty.
I mean, it's X-rated, isn't it?
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I mean, he doesn't pull his punches.
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So they apply burning brands to her
breasts and her genitals.
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It's very physical, you know.
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Lotto's living in this time that's
extremely violent.
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It really looks terrible, doesn't it?
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And throughout this
sort of bloody story,
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sufferings are punctuated by little
rays of hope.
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And now an angel
comes down from heaven
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and gives her a white cloak to put
around her body.
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And as soon as she puts the cloak
around her body, her whole
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body is healed, and then her little
dog is accompanying her all the way.
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The thing about this fresco
cycle is the date.
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Hmm. It's 1524, this is a time of
huge crisis in Wittenberg
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and the north, just over those
mountains that he's painted.
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Luther is saying,
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"We must split the church,
we must protest against Rome."
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And this fresco is the Suardi
family's way of saying to
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everybody who lived around here,
don't buy into the idea
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that this church is going to be
split, stay true to the old faith.
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And also, I think just the picture
has these kind of normal people.
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So the people kind of sympathise with
that. Yeah, or...
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..Can see themselves part of
this thing.
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Absolutely,
it's saying to the people,
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"This could happen in your world."
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Hmm, hmm.
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Lotto himself is actually
represented in that fresco.
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Oh, OK. I think that's
almost like his signature.
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Looks like that.
And he's looking at us.
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And he's got this
haunted expression.
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He's almost saying,
"Got the message?"
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I think, and for such a small chapel
and with such a big...
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I like that big message.
I think that's what he's saying.
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"Have you got the message?"
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'He's an Italian artist with
an Italian message,
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'but Lotto's style owes a lot to
the art of northern Europe.
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'I love it!'
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Andrew's right. Lombardy often
has more in common
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with northern Europe than
Mediterranean south.
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Progressive and pragmatic, unlike the
laidback southerners,
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the Lombards like to
get things moving.
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And you don't have to look far for
examples from every era.
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My favourite is
located on the river Adda,
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one of the greatest
arteries of Lombardy.
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It may not be a fresco,
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but I'm pretty sure Andrew will
appreciate it.
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Andrew this is it, this is
the bridge, this is it, we are here!
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00:12:05,360 --> 00:12:08,000
Oh, look at the drop!
It's unbelievable.
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Turn, turn right here.
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Here you've got a lot of industry
and, and, and exchange.
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00:12:14,280 --> 00:12:18,200
So this bridge was very, very
important for the communication.
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00:12:18,200 --> 00:12:20,520
It is amazing.
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00:12:20,520 --> 00:12:24,400
Built in 1889, the San Michele
bridge was much admired
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across Europe for its elegant design
and cutting edge technology.
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00:12:29,360 --> 00:12:33,600
It's simple, beautiful,
and most importantly functional.
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00:12:37,040 --> 00:12:40,520
Wow. It's enormous, isn't it?
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It looks so tiny from the top,
now it is just so big.
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What I like is, when you see
it in the river,
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it's like an eye
staring into the 20th century.
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And this is what Lombardy is
all about, you know,
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00:12:56,360 --> 00:12:58,400
looking towards the future.
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00:12:58,400 --> 00:13:01,240
They built this thing in two years.
Two years?!
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00:13:01,240 --> 00:13:03,080
In two years they built this thing.
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00:13:03,080 --> 00:13:05,480
Their feet were
definitely in Europe.
219
00:13:05,480 --> 00:13:09,200
These guys were there with everybody
else with the Industrial Revolution
220
00:13:09,200 --> 00:13:12,400
and building and going forwards.
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00:13:12,400 --> 00:13:15,240
They're kind of the dreamers,
but they're also engineers.
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00:13:15,240 --> 00:13:16,680
Bellisimo.
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00:13:21,760 --> 00:13:24,600
Well, I think we've had enough
wandering around.
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It's time to
go into the beating heart,
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00:13:26,640 --> 00:13:29,200
the capital of this region, Milan.
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00:13:29,200 --> 00:13:31,520
Even the road that takes you
there, the A8,
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00:13:31,520 --> 00:13:35,800
expresses Lombardy's
forward looking spirit.
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00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:39,400
They say it's the first
motorway in the history of roads.
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00:13:39,400 --> 00:13:42,240
That's right, not the German,
not the English,
230
00:13:42,240 --> 00:13:44,880
but the Italians built the first.
231
00:13:44,880 --> 00:13:46,800
North Italians.
232
00:13:46,800 --> 00:13:50,560
This was the first road,
straight in a very Roman way
233
00:13:50,560 --> 00:13:54,840
and went through all these big fat
towns and took you to Milan.
234
00:13:54,840 --> 00:13:58,880
This road is also very important
at a symbolic level,
235
00:13:58,880 --> 00:14:02,040
for what a northern Italy wanted
to represent
236
00:14:02,040 --> 00:14:03,960
in the earlier 20th century.
237
00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:06,640
Because throughout the 18th
and 19th century,
238
00:14:06,640 --> 00:14:09,760
Italy was a byword for a country
living in the past,
239
00:14:09,760 --> 00:14:11,400
going really nowhere.
240
00:14:12,520 --> 00:14:15,560
And then suddenly this road,
this road said no, no, no,
241
00:14:15,560 --> 00:14:19,640
we're going somewhere and where are
we going, we're going to the future.
242
00:14:24,120 --> 00:14:29,160
Rome may be the capital, but Milan
is the real power behind Italy.
243
00:14:29,160 --> 00:14:33,480
Over 2,000 years old, it occupies a
key position along
244
00:14:33,480 --> 00:14:38,000
the ancient trade route between Rome
and northern Europe.
245
00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:39,560
Dynamic and industrious,
246
00:14:39,560 --> 00:14:43,520
it remains the most important
commercial centre in the country.
247
00:14:45,720 --> 00:14:48,200
For me, there's only one place to
start our exploration
248
00:14:48,200 --> 00:14:51,520
of the city,
the grand Gothic Cathedral.
249
00:14:51,520 --> 00:14:55,160
Dominating the old city centre,
it's the heart and soul of Milan.
250
00:14:55,160 --> 00:14:58,840
All roads seem to start
and end here.
251
00:14:58,840 --> 00:15:03,520
Construction started in 1386 and
it's one of the earliest examples
252
00:15:03,520 --> 00:15:07,440
of the great Milanese
gift for design and engineering.
253
00:15:09,160 --> 00:15:12,080
Do you know, Giorgio, I think
that's the first time... Yeah.
254
00:15:12,080 --> 00:15:15,680
..I have ever seen the front
of Milan Cathedral
255
00:15:15,680 --> 00:15:18,440
without huge amounts of
scaffolding on it.
256
00:15:18,440 --> 00:15:21,520
It's the first time I've seen
it so white. Yeah.
257
00:15:21,520 --> 00:15:24,000
Even in the picture
on the panettone, the one you buy
258
00:15:24,000 --> 00:15:27,080
at Christmas, there's a picture of it
and it's much greyer than that.
259
00:15:27,080 --> 00:15:29,160
It's wonderful this cathedral front.
260
00:15:29,160 --> 00:15:33,400
Ruskin loved it, he talked
about its frost, crystalline beauty.
261
00:15:33,400 --> 00:15:35,480
He thought it was almost like a
snowflake
262
00:15:35,480 --> 00:15:37,200
that has come down to Earth. Yes.
263
00:15:37,200 --> 00:15:40,040
It's got that sort of structure
of a snow flake. It's beautiful.
264
00:15:40,040 --> 00:15:41,720
It is impressive, isn't it?
265
00:15:41,720 --> 00:15:44,120
Shall we go inside?
Let's go and have a look.
266
00:15:52,440 --> 00:15:54,480
Built over six centuries,
267
00:15:54,480 --> 00:15:57,480
the cathedral is
one of the largest in all of Europe.
268
00:15:58,720 --> 00:16:00,400
It's dedicated to the Madonna
269
00:16:00,400 --> 00:16:04,840
and is still one of the great
pilgrimage sights in all of Italy.
270
00:16:07,120 --> 00:16:11,960
I've visited many times, and always
find something new to marvel at.
271
00:16:15,840 --> 00:16:19,480
'This time we're going to
explore a very different part
of the building.'
272
00:16:19,480 --> 00:16:21,560
I love this, what a treat.
273
00:16:21,560 --> 00:16:24,600
'We're on our way to
the roof of the Duomo,
274
00:16:24,600 --> 00:16:27,440
'the most ingenious
part of its design.'
275
00:16:27,440 --> 00:16:30,840
Oh, yes.
How beautiful is that?!
276
00:16:30,840 --> 00:16:32,880
I think we've arrived.
277
00:16:32,880 --> 00:16:36,520
'We've arranged to meet
one of the engineers currently
restoring the roof.'
278
00:16:36,520 --> 00:16:37,880
Hello.
279
00:16:48,320 --> 00:16:51,560
'Benigno Morlin works for the
Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo,
280
00:16:51,560 --> 00:16:54,440
'the 600-year-old workshop that
built the cathedral,
281
00:16:54,440 --> 00:16:56,840
'and is still dedicated
to its restoration.'
282
00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:09,840
These are pieces they've remade.
283
00:17:15,400 --> 00:17:16,560
Oh, beautiful.
284
00:17:19,440 --> 00:17:21,440
OK so, they own,
285
00:17:21,440 --> 00:17:26,520
they own the quarry where you
actually get this stone from.
286
00:17:26,520 --> 00:17:30,160
It is an historic quarry.
It's an historic... It's the same.
287
00:17:30,160 --> 00:17:32,840
It's the same quarry...
It's the same quarry.
288
00:17:32,840 --> 00:17:34,640
..They got the stone
from in the first place.
289
00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:37,480
'It was modelled on the Gothic
cathedrals of northern Europe.
290
00:17:37,480 --> 00:17:40,120
'But the Lombard builders couldn't
resist adding a few
291
00:17:40,120 --> 00:17:41,760
'innovations of their own.
292
00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:45,800
'And the construction of its roof
was completely revolutionary.'
293
00:18:10,400 --> 00:18:12,480
'Talking to Signore Morlin made us
294
00:18:12,480 --> 00:18:15,480
'want to see more of the Duomo's
crowning glory.
295
00:18:15,480 --> 00:18:18,400
'I love how what might have been
a purely functional feature
296
00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:20,760
'has been made a thing of beauty.
297
00:18:20,760 --> 00:18:23,800
'It's as if there's a whole other
cathedral here up in the clouds.
298
00:18:23,800 --> 00:18:26,560
'And it's open to the public too.'
299
00:18:26,560 --> 00:18:29,880
It's a phenomenon, this building.
It is incredible.
300
00:18:29,880 --> 00:18:33,360
I tell you, it's the only great
Gothic cathedral that seems
301
00:18:33,360 --> 00:18:36,400
almost designed for you to
be able to enjoy
302
00:18:36,400 --> 00:18:39,640
and take pleasure
in the structure of its making.
303
00:18:39,640 --> 00:18:43,400
Down here, you see, you've got
the sort of series of walkways,
304
00:18:43,400 --> 00:18:47,600
pathways, it was always made to be
walked on, enjoyed. Right.
305
00:18:47,600 --> 00:18:51,040
So all the different levels,
you can see the structure, and as a
306
00:18:51,040 --> 00:18:53,960
result of that, you know they've
exercised their ingenuity,
307
00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:57,200
whereas in other Gothic cathedrals,
the spires and the minarets
308
00:18:57,200 --> 00:18:59,120
just rise up to the sky
pointing to God.
309
00:18:59,120 --> 00:19:01,560
Here they've become plinths for
outdoor sculptures.
310
00:19:01,560 --> 00:19:04,200
You could say this
is the first outdoor sculpture park.
311
00:19:04,200 --> 00:19:07,280
You know what it reminds me of,
it reminds me of this, you know when
312
00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:10,920
you wet the sand and you make these
things and they just sort of
313
00:19:10,920 --> 00:19:15,360
grow underneath your hands. It has
the same kind of fragility to that.
314
00:19:15,360 --> 00:19:19,240
That's what's so beautiful
about the Gothic, I think.
315
00:19:19,240 --> 00:19:22,320
This cathedral is actually
the engine room of what's made
316
00:19:22,320 --> 00:19:27,160
Milan a great temple of modern
technology and design,
317
00:19:27,160 --> 00:19:31,120
because in the Gothic period,
the mathematicians, the engineers,
318
00:19:31,120 --> 00:19:32,760
the architects, the designers,
319
00:19:32,760 --> 00:19:36,560
they were brought into being
by the needs of this cathedral.
320
00:19:36,560 --> 00:19:38,120
Solving problems.
321
00:19:38,120 --> 00:19:39,520
So yes, it's kind of a machine
322
00:19:39,520 --> 00:19:44,280
that's constantly attracting to
Milan, technological innovators.
323
00:19:44,280 --> 00:19:47,560
'Back in the day,
every great intellectual who came to
324
00:19:47,560 --> 00:19:51,360
'Milan seems to have been involved
with the cathedral.
325
00:19:51,360 --> 00:19:55,200
'And in the Duomo's archives,
there's evidence of one particular
326
00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:57,840
'genius and his small contribution.'
327
00:20:03,120 --> 00:20:05,560
Roberto. Buongiorno.
328
00:20:31,560 --> 00:20:36,800
A list of payment for everybody who
collaborated to build the Duomo.
329
00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:39,200
A lot of people seem to have
collaborated.
330
00:20:52,080 --> 00:20:53,520
Excusi, Roberto. Si.
331
00:20:53,520 --> 00:20:57,240
This is, you've picked this one
out for us and it's actually
332
00:20:57,240 --> 00:21:02,480
evidence that Leonardus Florentinus,
so Leonardo from Florence... Si.
333
00:21:02,480 --> 00:21:04,440
..ie, Leonardo Da Vinci
334
00:21:04,440 --> 00:21:08,240
had actually done some work
for the cathedral. How wonderful.
335
00:21:16,640 --> 00:21:20,080
The tiburio is the top...
The cupola. That's right.
336
00:21:31,720 --> 00:21:35,960
What a wonderful little detail, cos
that's far less than he would be
337
00:21:35,960 --> 00:21:39,400
paid for the major commissions. And
yet, a wooden model for a cupola is
338
00:21:39,400 --> 00:21:42,440
a very complicated thing to make, so
that suggests to me that he really
339
00:21:42,440 --> 00:21:45,680
wanted to work on the cathedral,
he wanted to leave a mark on Milano.
340
00:21:45,680 --> 00:21:47,520
He understood something. Yeah.
341
00:21:47,520 --> 00:21:51,320
Well, of course, he didn't, in the
end, design the cupola. Yeah.
342
00:21:51,320 --> 00:21:55,760
The model never got used. No.
It's been lost. Grazie, Roberto.
343
00:21:55,760 --> 00:21:58,280
It's a pleasure.
344
00:21:58,280 --> 00:22:00,160
Arrivederci. Arrivederci.
345
00:22:01,960 --> 00:22:05,000
'It's very revealing that
Leonardo sold himself to
346
00:22:05,000 --> 00:22:09,840
'the court of Milan as an engineer
rather than an artist.
347
00:22:09,840 --> 00:22:14,760
'He worked for the great Duke
Ludovico Sforza for nearly 20 years.
348
00:22:14,760 --> 00:22:18,040
'Designing bridges, boats,
weapons or war.
349
00:22:19,840 --> 00:22:23,040
'Design and engineering were
the priorities in Milan.
350
00:22:23,040 --> 00:22:26,040
'They're what its success
is built on.'
351
00:22:30,360 --> 00:22:34,080
'That philosophy had a radical
impact on the shape of the city.
352
00:22:34,080 --> 00:22:36,440
'Just a short walk from the Duomo,
you can visit
353
00:22:36,440 --> 00:22:40,040
'one of the most outstanding examples
of technical imagination.
354
00:22:42,360 --> 00:22:45,560
'La Scala is amongst the most
prestigious opera houses
355
00:22:45,560 --> 00:22:49,880
'in the world, and we've been
allowed to take a look inside.'
356
00:22:49,880 --> 00:22:52,200
I've never been here before.
357
00:22:52,200 --> 00:22:54,120
This, look at this!
358
00:22:56,960 --> 00:23:00,240
I think it's the world's first
horseshoe shaped theatre.
359
00:23:00,240 --> 00:23:03,800
That's right. And it's all designed
with sound on their mind.
360
00:23:03,800 --> 00:23:05,920
So it's incredible.
361
00:23:05,920 --> 00:23:09,560
You know, you see the shape of each
thing and how it's made as well.
362
00:23:09,560 --> 00:23:12,680
You know, to not destroy the echo.
The boxes? Yeah, the boxes.
363
00:23:12,680 --> 00:23:15,760
I'd love to come and actually...
You sing a little bit, can you sing?
364
00:23:15,760 --> 00:23:17,560
THEY SING A NOTE
365
00:23:17,560 --> 00:23:20,960
No. Oh.
Oh, no, I can't.
366
00:23:20,960 --> 00:23:24,720
It is absolutely
outstanding to be here.
367
00:23:28,080 --> 00:23:31,720
But we didn't just come here to
admire the theatre,
368
00:23:31,720 --> 00:23:36,640
I'm taking Andrew to Il Marchesini,
a restaurant in the same building.
369
00:23:36,640 --> 00:23:40,440
It's owned by the most celebrated
Italian chef in the world,
370
00:23:40,440 --> 00:23:42,880
Gualtiero Marchesi.
371
00:23:42,880 --> 00:23:46,040
With three Michelin stars,
he globalised Italian food
372
00:23:46,040 --> 00:23:49,200
and made it the success it is today.
373
00:23:49,200 --> 00:23:52,200
Gualtiero is waiting for us,
so come in and see.
374
00:23:52,200 --> 00:23:53,480
It's like a theatre curtain.
375
00:23:53,480 --> 00:23:56,360
That's what it is,
we are in the theatre restaurant.
376
00:24:15,320 --> 00:24:19,360
Gualtiero makes this dish,
one of his creations.
377
00:24:19,360 --> 00:24:24,760
And to me, it's the dish that really,
really represents Milan
378
00:24:24,760 --> 00:24:27,480
more than anything else that
I have seen before.
379
00:24:27,480 --> 00:24:29,200
What's this dish called?
380
00:24:29,200 --> 00:24:32,160
Not just Milan! Italy.
381
00:24:32,160 --> 00:24:34,680
He says all Italy.
THEY LAUGH
382
00:24:41,160 --> 00:24:44,040
With gold? Yeah, with gold.
Yeah, with gold, saffron and...
383
00:24:46,480 --> 00:24:48,680
We are rich. We're rich, I like it.
Yeah.
384
00:24:55,400 --> 00:24:59,120
One of the things that
matter is to
385
00:24:59,120 --> 00:25:01,280
really concentrate on the flavour.
386
00:25:01,280 --> 00:25:03,560
And very neat and clear flavoured.
387
00:25:03,560 --> 00:25:07,000
So even if there is
a lot of creation in what he does,
388
00:25:07,000 --> 00:25:10,000
it is always with a great
respect for the flavours.
389
00:25:10,000 --> 00:25:14,800
Hmm. So what is the
essential flavour in this risotto?
390
00:25:14,800 --> 00:25:16,320
The saffron. The saffron?
391
00:25:16,320 --> 00:25:17,720
Definitely, yeah.
392
00:25:24,440 --> 00:25:25,920
HE SPEAKS ITALIAN
393
00:25:28,960 --> 00:25:31,960
So it's turning
the procedure upside down. OK.
394
00:25:34,200 --> 00:25:36,040
Or the risotto.
395
00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:40,080
They also put a lot of cheese.
396
00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:42,520
To give the acidity.
397
00:25:42,520 --> 00:25:44,520
Then you taste only the cheese.
398
00:25:54,720 --> 00:25:55,640
Taste it.
399
00:25:58,960 --> 00:26:01,240
Mmm, wow. Acidity.
400
00:26:01,240 --> 00:26:03,440
That's like erm... Very high acid.
401
00:26:03,440 --> 00:26:06,320
..A beautiful reduction of wine...
Wine with onions. ..With butter.
402
00:26:18,320 --> 00:26:19,960
Beautiful thing!
403
00:26:19,960 --> 00:26:22,760
When he said gold, I thought he
meant he was actually going to
404
00:26:22,760 --> 00:26:25,120
put some gold leaf in it.
Hold on a minute.
405
00:26:25,120 --> 00:26:26,680
But he means, he means gold as in...
406
00:26:26,680 --> 00:26:28,880
No, no, no, no,
no, there is some gold coming.
407
00:26:28,880 --> 00:26:31,280
..Metaphorical?
No, no, no, no, wait a minute.
408
00:26:50,800 --> 00:26:53,840
That's amazing.
Go on, you've got to taste it.
409
00:26:53,840 --> 00:26:55,200
I have to taste it.
410
00:27:01,160 --> 00:27:03,960
Oh, what an idea.
I'm just going to eat loads of gold.
411
00:27:08,040 --> 00:27:09,520
HE MOANS HAPPILY
412
00:27:18,600 --> 00:27:21,520
And the shape of the rice.
Can you feel the rice?
413
00:27:21,520 --> 00:27:24,360
Yeah, you can get the shape of each
of the rice in your mouth,
414
00:27:24,360 --> 00:27:26,480
which makes a difference how
you flavour it.
415
00:27:26,480 --> 00:27:30,520
Innovation doesn't mean that you
have to complicate things
416
00:27:30,520 --> 00:27:32,640
or layer it so much.
417
00:27:32,640 --> 00:27:36,720
And this is a clear example
of somebody expressing himself...
418
00:27:36,720 --> 00:27:39,800
Simplicity.
..Without complicating things.
419
00:27:39,800 --> 00:27:43,440
So express yourself in simplicity,
this is so important.
420
00:27:47,920 --> 00:27:49,480
Grazie.
421
00:27:49,480 --> 00:27:51,120
Arrivederci.
422
00:27:51,120 --> 00:27:52,560
I will have some more gold.
423
00:27:52,560 --> 00:27:53,960
HE LAUGHS
424
00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:00,560
'After sampling Marchesi's gold,
425
00:28:00,560 --> 00:28:03,640
'what better way to walk
off the richness
426
00:28:03,640 --> 00:28:07,160
'than with a passeggiata
through Milan's finest galleria.
427
00:28:07,160 --> 00:28:09,360
'Sophisticated and opulent,
428
00:28:09,360 --> 00:28:14,680
'the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is
the oldest shopping mall in Italy.
429
00:28:14,680 --> 00:28:18,960
'Strolling through this luxurious
arcade, it's obvious why Milan
430
00:28:18,960 --> 00:28:21,880
'is one of the fashion
capitals of the world.'
431
00:28:21,880 --> 00:28:23,400
Look how elegant they are.
432
00:28:23,400 --> 00:28:26,880
Even the traffic wardens,
look at them. Fantastic.
433
00:28:26,880 --> 00:28:29,840
Those are the cops. Those are the
traffic warden, not the cops.
434
00:28:29,840 --> 00:28:32,960
Only in Italy.
Only in Milan, you know.
435
00:28:39,480 --> 00:28:42,720
It's a bit of a temple of capitalism
really, as you can see.
436
00:28:42,720 --> 00:28:44,880
Well, I think it's a cathedral
of capitalism.
437
00:28:44,880 --> 00:28:47,160
I think what's amazingly
daring about it
438
00:28:47,160 --> 00:28:49,360
is that the Duomo is
literally there.
439
00:28:49,360 --> 00:28:50,600
And the Scala is there.
440
00:28:50,600 --> 00:28:53,440
And the Scala is there,
so you got the temple of art,
441
00:28:53,440 --> 00:28:54,920
the temple of religion there
442
00:28:54,920 --> 00:28:57,080
and you've got
the temple of money here.
443
00:28:57,080 --> 00:28:59,240
Because, yeah, this is what
it's all about.
444
00:28:59,240 --> 00:29:01,800
It is and it's so grand!
445
00:29:01,800 --> 00:29:05,880
1861, so it's,
it's just a few years after
446
00:29:05,880 --> 00:29:08,880
the Great Exhibition in London,
the building of the Crystal Palace.
447
00:29:08,880 --> 00:29:11,560
Because it does look like that,
doesn't it? It's the same.
448
00:29:11,560 --> 00:29:13,360
A Victorian sort of building.
449
00:29:13,360 --> 00:29:16,040
And it's a great
statement from a city to,
450
00:29:16,040 --> 00:29:19,720
right in the middle of that, to
really show their power.
451
00:29:19,720 --> 00:29:21,880
And you know, the commercial.
452
00:29:21,880 --> 00:29:25,440
You know, they are commercial
animals those guys.
453
00:29:25,440 --> 00:29:28,640
I think it's the only place where
you can really see
454
00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:31,480
and feel that sort of huge pride
and self confidence,
455
00:29:31,480 --> 00:29:34,280
you know, across Italy
in the Industrial Revolution. Yes.
456
00:29:34,280 --> 00:29:35,920
You only really feel that here.
457
00:29:35,920 --> 00:29:38,560
Yeah. There is one thing that
I want to show you. Yeah.
458
00:29:38,560 --> 00:29:41,280
And whenever you come to
this place,
459
00:29:41,280 --> 00:29:44,120
there is this superstitious thing,
and if you see any Milanese
460
00:29:44,120 --> 00:29:48,120
walking through, they will come along
and what they will do is
461
00:29:48,120 --> 00:29:53,200
stand on the balls of the toro.
It's called scica i ball al toro.
462
00:29:53,200 --> 00:29:55,840
And you go like that.
Step on the balls of the bull?
463
00:29:55,840 --> 00:29:57,800
And you turn around and that's it.
464
00:29:57,800 --> 00:30:00,080
Always in Italy there has to be
a superstitious...
465
00:30:00,080 --> 00:30:02,160
OK, is that 'cos you need balls
466
00:30:02,160 --> 00:30:04,760
if you're going to pay the prices
for some of these clothes?
467
00:30:04,760 --> 00:30:05,800
THEY LAUGH
468
00:30:08,440 --> 00:30:11,040
'One of the things I love about the
city is how open it is
469
00:30:11,040 --> 00:30:13,320
'to new ideas and innovations.
470
00:30:13,320 --> 00:30:18,760
'Although it cherishes its history,
Milan isn't stuck in the past.
471
00:30:18,760 --> 00:30:22,040
'Progressive, forward-thinking,
it fostered one of the most
472
00:30:22,040 --> 00:30:26,080
'revolutionary art movements of the
early 20th century, Futurism.
473
00:30:27,600 --> 00:30:29,440
'It was dreamed up in 1909
474
00:30:29,440 --> 00:30:32,600
'by an eccentric poet
and orator called Marinetti.'
475
00:30:33,840 --> 00:30:37,840
Fillippo Tomasso Marinetti, in my
opinion, wasn't a very nice man.
476
00:30:37,840 --> 00:30:40,920
A lot of things wrong with him,
he was a Fascist. Misogynist.
477
00:30:40,920 --> 00:30:45,200
He glorified war,
but he did have a vision.
478
00:30:45,200 --> 00:30:48,640
And I think he's a very interesting
character because what he did was,
479
00:30:48,640 --> 00:30:53,200
he set out to drag
Italy into the 20th century,
480
00:30:53,200 --> 00:30:55,160
into the modern world.
481
00:30:55,160 --> 00:31:00,920
The Futurist Manifesto, it's a guide
to enjoying modern life.
482
00:31:00,920 --> 00:31:04,520
Everything that an Italian perhaps
at the beginning of the 20th century
483
00:31:04,520 --> 00:31:08,720
might find disconcerting,
that rapid movement of a tram,
484
00:31:08,720 --> 00:31:13,320
a crowded street, the sudden sense
that everything's moving,
485
00:31:13,320 --> 00:31:14,840
it's confusing.
486
00:31:14,840 --> 00:31:17,880
And, Andrew, what was amazing is that
when you travel the world
487
00:31:17,880 --> 00:31:20,360
and when I went to
New York and I went to the MOMA,
488
00:31:20,360 --> 00:31:24,400
I was so shocked to see there is
a room only of Futuristic painting.
489
00:31:24,400 --> 00:31:27,960
In Italian museums, very rarely you
find a whole room of Futurism.
490
00:31:27,960 --> 00:31:29,320
Maybe you find one of these.
491
00:31:29,320 --> 00:31:32,280
The Italians have kind
of refused them this.
492
00:31:32,280 --> 00:31:35,640
I think that's part of the later
story, because Futurism turned dark,
493
00:31:35,640 --> 00:31:39,400
became associated with
Fascism, it got a bad name in Italy.
494
00:31:39,400 --> 00:31:43,280
But here in Milan, it's the one
exception. A home city of Futurism.
495
00:31:43,280 --> 00:31:46,720
They did actually create and build a
great collection,
496
00:31:46,720 --> 00:31:49,160
which we're
going to see and we're... Yeah.
497
00:31:49,160 --> 00:31:50,800
And I think we're just about there.
498
00:31:50,800 --> 00:31:52,920
Yeah, we are in Duomo,
we have to get out now.
499
00:31:52,920 --> 00:31:55,880
Andiamo, let's go
and look at some electric art.
500
00:32:02,600 --> 00:32:04,680
'We're visiting
the Novecento Museum,
501
00:32:04,680 --> 00:32:08,360
'home to the best collection of
Futurist art in Italy.'
502
00:32:08,360 --> 00:32:11,520
I really like this. It's
like a little capsule of Futurism,
503
00:32:11,520 --> 00:32:14,000
all condensed into just
a couple of galleries.
504
00:32:14,000 --> 00:32:17,720
Here they begin, they're in Paris,
they're in the cafes,
505
00:32:17,720 --> 00:32:20,760
they're reading the papers,
they're doing what Picasso had done,
506
00:32:20,760 --> 00:32:23,800
they're trying to think, "What would
it be like to be a modern artist?"
507
00:32:23,800 --> 00:32:28,000
And I think, suddenly, on this other
wall, bang, you've got the answer.
508
00:32:28,000 --> 00:32:32,720
Hmm. They turn, this is not a very
well-known Futurist, Achille Funi.
509
00:32:32,720 --> 00:32:36,320
But he is turning
to Milan, he's not in Paris,
510
00:32:36,320 --> 00:32:40,360
he's painting Milan, he's painting
a man getting off a tram.
511
00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:43,200
That's what it looks like for real,
look at that.
512
00:32:43,200 --> 00:32:45,440
It's like an explosion, isn't it?
513
00:32:45,440 --> 00:32:48,560
I think what he's trying to,
he's trying to capture that,
514
00:32:48,560 --> 00:32:50,320
you know when we were on the tram,
515
00:32:50,320 --> 00:32:52,160
that sense that the world
is not still.
516
00:32:52,160 --> 00:32:55,440
That there's the sound, you can
almost hear the shriek of the tram.
517
00:32:55,440 --> 00:32:58,680
They do take their cue, to
a certain degree, from Paris.
518
00:32:58,680 --> 00:33:00,800
Because Paris is the great
centre of modern art,
519
00:33:00,800 --> 00:33:02,720
but they're changing all the time.
520
00:33:02,720 --> 00:33:06,160
Think of someone like Toulouse
Lautrec painting the can-can girls.
521
00:33:06,160 --> 00:33:08,480
Well, this is an Italian artist,
Gino Severini
522
00:33:08,480 --> 00:33:11,240
and this is what
he makes of the can-can.
523
00:33:11,240 --> 00:33:14,880
This is very much an artist who's
read Marinetti's Futurist Manifesto.
524
00:33:14,880 --> 00:33:18,680
Hmm. And he's interested in this
idea that we are inhabitants
525
00:33:18,680 --> 00:33:21,920
of the machine age, and when he
looks at the chorus line,
526
00:33:21,920 --> 00:33:24,960
it's as if he sees a group of people
who've turned themselves
527
00:33:24,960 --> 00:33:28,920
into a kind of animated piston
engine. You know, legs kicking.
528
00:33:28,920 --> 00:33:30,520
Yeah, 12 pistons going up.
529
00:33:30,520 --> 00:33:33,560
It's almost like people becoming
like the inside of a motor car.
530
00:33:33,560 --> 00:33:36,960
They were setting themselves
quite a difficult task,
531
00:33:36,960 --> 00:33:42,920
which is to capture in a still
frame, a sense of movement.
532
00:33:42,920 --> 00:33:46,040
This picture, once you read
the title, you can see the subject.
533
00:33:46,040 --> 00:33:47,680
Girl Running On A Balcony.
534
00:33:47,680 --> 00:33:52,680
It is there, the girls
running on a balcony, literally.
535
00:33:52,680 --> 00:33:56,920
Like if it was different
frames of a moving image. Yeah.
536
00:33:56,920 --> 00:34:01,080
The further you get, the more you can
actually see the image moving.
537
00:34:01,080 --> 00:34:04,640
It takes really shape.
It is brilliant.
538
00:34:04,640 --> 00:34:07,480
One of the things I like about
Futurism is,
539
00:34:07,480 --> 00:34:11,360
that they're trying to break up
the language of the past.
540
00:34:11,360 --> 00:34:16,240
But the real star of the movement
was a man called Umberto Boccioni.
541
00:34:16,240 --> 00:34:18,360
Look at this.
542
00:34:18,360 --> 00:34:22,920
This is, this is Boccioni's
sort of masterpiece in sculpture.
543
00:34:22,920 --> 00:34:29,040
And it's called Unique Forms Of
Continuity In Space.
544
00:34:29,040 --> 00:34:31,040
It was based,
545
00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:34,520
how appropriate for one of the
masterpieces of Milan,
546
00:34:34,520 --> 00:34:36,760
with its two great football teams,
547
00:34:36,760 --> 00:34:40,200
is based on the image of a
football player.
548
00:34:40,200 --> 00:34:42,840
What do you think of it,
do you like it?
549
00:34:42,840 --> 00:34:44,080
I really, really like it.
550
00:34:44,080 --> 00:34:46,680
It reminds me
more than a footballer,
551
00:34:46,680 --> 00:34:48,760
he actually looks like one of those
552
00:34:48,760 --> 00:34:53,680
little robo transformers that
my children used to have.
553
00:34:53,680 --> 00:34:56,760
Yeah, well, I don't think
it's a coincidence.
554
00:34:56,760 --> 00:35:01,680
It's the Futurist man striding
into what he thought was the future.
555
00:35:06,200 --> 00:35:09,120
'The Futurists didn't just want to
revolutionise art,
556
00:35:09,120 --> 00:35:12,520
'they wanted to transform how
Italians ate as well.
557
00:35:12,520 --> 00:35:15,160
'Marinetti even wanted pasta banned.
558
00:35:15,160 --> 00:35:18,520
'And in 1930 he compiled
a radical cookbook.
559
00:35:20,040 --> 00:35:23,360
'I can't resist trying out a couple
of recipes on Andrew.'
560
00:35:23,360 --> 00:35:24,680
What is that?
561
00:35:24,680 --> 00:35:27,160
Look, here you got a sandwich that
instead of having
562
00:35:27,160 --> 00:35:29,920
the bread on the outside,
you have the salami on the outside
563
00:35:29,920 --> 00:35:31,480
and the bread is in the inside.
564
00:35:31,480 --> 00:35:34,040
You have got anchovies
and you got green apple.
565
00:35:34,040 --> 00:35:36,680
Fantastic,
it looks brilliant, doesn't it?
566
00:35:36,680 --> 00:35:40,760
So it's really like
a very Italian version of what they,
567
00:35:40,760 --> 00:35:44,600
you know, what they thought
the food of the future would be.
568
00:35:44,600 --> 00:35:46,960
Do you expect me to like this?
569
00:35:46,960 --> 00:35:49,040
Oh, I expect you to taste it!
570
00:35:49,040 --> 00:35:51,520
You know, you know, I made an
effort to make it
571
00:35:51,520 --> 00:35:54,680
so you're going to have to
taste it at least.
572
00:35:54,680 --> 00:35:56,160
OK. OK.
573
00:36:03,720 --> 00:36:06,680
Is it delicious or what?
What is that?!
574
00:36:06,680 --> 00:36:08,160
ANDREW LAUGHS
575
00:36:08,160 --> 00:36:10,200
I'm trying to be polite, Giorgio.
576
00:36:10,200 --> 00:36:11,800
No.
577
00:36:11,800 --> 00:36:15,080
In deference to Fillippo Tomasso,
but...
578
00:36:15,080 --> 00:36:19,120
No, there is some...it's a quite
an interesting taste, isn't it?
579
00:36:19,120 --> 00:36:20,760
Hmm.
580
00:36:20,760 --> 00:36:24,360
It's sort of a little bit disgusting
when you bite into it because
581
00:36:24,360 --> 00:36:27,880
you're chewing through vast
amounts of thick, fatty salami.
582
00:36:27,880 --> 00:36:29,880
Taste the other one.
It's, do you...?
583
00:36:29,880 --> 00:36:33,160
It's the other one.
584
00:36:33,160 --> 00:36:35,480
So what...the other one's
a strong taste. OK.
585
00:36:35,480 --> 00:36:37,600
And it has got,
shall I tell you what's inside?
586
00:36:37,600 --> 00:36:39,840
No, let me guess. OK, bite, go.
587
00:36:39,840 --> 00:36:43,080
Sandwich tasting. This is...
588
00:36:47,440 --> 00:36:49,000
Oh.
589
00:36:49,000 --> 00:36:52,040
THEY LAUGH
590
00:36:52,040 --> 00:36:55,280
That is amazing. That's amazing.
591
00:36:55,280 --> 00:36:57,720
I have to say, actually,
I like this one.
592
00:36:57,720 --> 00:36:59,360
It's got a banana in it. I know.
593
00:36:59,360 --> 00:37:02,000
And what you have to
think about is, you know,
594
00:37:02,000 --> 00:37:03,960
this is 100 years ago.
595
00:37:03,960 --> 00:37:07,160
We're talking about certain
ingredients that were so far ahead.
596
00:37:07,160 --> 00:37:11,200
These guys were so far out, much more
than Heston Blumenthal is
597
00:37:11,200 --> 00:37:13,560
with his
snail porridge at the moment.
598
00:37:13,560 --> 00:37:16,640
Banana. Man, they see banana
once a year.
599
00:37:16,640 --> 00:37:20,520
And it's got anchovies, banana,
and another very important thing.
600
00:37:20,520 --> 00:37:23,200
Mustard, like an English mustard.
601
00:37:23,200 --> 00:37:26,320
So they look again to
the outside world,
602
00:37:26,320 --> 00:37:29,640
they look to the English,
they look to another world,
603
00:37:29,640 --> 00:37:32,480
a world more industrialised than
they one that they had.
604
00:37:32,480 --> 00:37:35,880
It's seriously weird.
Seriously good as well, I think.
605
00:37:35,880 --> 00:37:38,160
The perfect breakfast
sandwich, isn't it?
606
00:37:38,160 --> 00:37:41,360
It'll be really an energetic food,
it's food on the go
607
00:37:41,360 --> 00:37:43,840
and it's supposed to inspire you,
and make you feel
608
00:37:43,840 --> 00:37:46,400
like you are a modern man,
that's what it's all about.
609
00:37:46,400 --> 00:37:49,320
Bizarrely, if you told me
what you were going to put in there,
610
00:37:49,320 --> 00:37:53,000
I wouldn't have even touched it.
Right. But it's fantastic.
611
00:37:53,000 --> 00:37:55,960
How many recipes in the
Futurist Cookbook did you look at?
612
00:37:55,960 --> 00:37:57,200
I read them all.
613
00:37:57,200 --> 00:37:59,440
And how many did you think
actually could be
614
00:37:59,440 --> 00:38:01,080
turned into food you could eat?
615
00:38:04,200 --> 00:38:06,760
Eh, two.
THEY LAUGH
616
00:38:06,760 --> 00:38:09,640
So we're eating the only two
recipes you thought... Yeah.
617
00:38:09,640 --> 00:38:13,080
..And I thought one of them
was disgusting anyway, so.
618
00:38:13,080 --> 00:38:14,400
Cheers, man.
619
00:38:14,400 --> 00:38:17,040
I think the only way to toast
a banana and anchovy sandwich
620
00:38:17,040 --> 00:38:19,560
is with pineapple liqueur
champagne cocktail.
621
00:38:19,560 --> 00:38:21,320
What are we doing?
622
00:38:24,440 --> 00:38:26,120
'For all their exuberance,
623
00:38:26,120 --> 00:38:29,960
'Marinetti and many of the Futurists
were politically misguided.
624
00:38:29,960 --> 00:38:33,840
'When Mussolini and the Fascists
came to power in 1922,
625
00:38:33,840 --> 00:38:38,560
'they embraced his radical policies
to modernise Italy.
626
00:38:38,560 --> 00:38:43,280
'Mussolini would bring Italy to its
knees and into the Second World War.
627
00:38:43,280 --> 00:38:46,600
'And there's one artist,
Mario Sironi, who I think
628
00:38:46,600 --> 00:38:51,240
'captures the darkness of
this time better than anyone else.
629
00:38:51,240 --> 00:38:54,880
'His work in the Novecento is
a poignant reminder of how
630
00:38:54,880 --> 00:38:58,160
'Fascism devastated Italy.'
631
00:38:58,160 --> 00:39:01,640
These are some of Sironi's
pictures in the '20s and '30s.
632
00:39:01,640 --> 00:39:03,840
And here, Sironi seems,
633
00:39:03,840 --> 00:39:07,080
I think, to be painting a kind
of dark portrait of Italy
634
00:39:07,080 --> 00:39:09,280
as it moves into the Fascist years,
635
00:39:09,280 --> 00:39:12,200
as it moves
towards totalitarians and...
636
00:39:12,200 --> 00:39:14,920
It's very difficult to think
that this guy
637
00:39:14,920 --> 00:39:18,280
was associated with that movement.
Yeah.
638
00:39:18,280 --> 00:39:21,960
I mean, what we see downstairs is
this explosion of colour
639
00:39:21,960 --> 00:39:25,400
and energy, and things in here are
just like monochrome.
640
00:39:25,400 --> 00:39:28,040
There is no hope in this picture
isn't there?
641
00:39:28,040 --> 00:39:31,360
It's like the guy is almost
fading away, isn't he?
642
00:39:31,360 --> 00:39:34,920
And the other one is in desperation
completely.
643
00:39:34,920 --> 00:39:37,000
Like there is no future.
644
00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:41,120
Sironi had it from both angles
because the Fascists, who he was
645
00:39:41,120 --> 00:39:44,360
supposedly working for, didn't
like what he produced for them.
646
00:39:44,360 --> 00:39:46,760
And the avant-garde,
the rest of Italy, as well,
647
00:39:46,760 --> 00:39:49,320
didn't like him
because he was Fascist.
648
00:39:49,320 --> 00:39:53,840
And his work became
ever increasingly melancholic.
649
00:39:53,840 --> 00:39:56,040
If we look at this picture,
650
00:39:56,040 --> 00:39:58,880
I mean, if anything,
it's even darker than the other one.
651
00:39:58,880 --> 00:40:01,960
This melancholy figure, as it were,
652
00:40:01,960 --> 00:40:06,000
stranded among the ruins of this
new modern Italy
653
00:40:06,000 --> 00:40:08,880
by a sort of shattered aqueduct.
654
00:40:08,880 --> 00:40:12,600
A night sky, it's all darkness,
it's all despair.
655
00:40:12,600 --> 00:40:15,360
Do you think these pictures do get
to the heart of
656
00:40:15,360 --> 00:40:17,160
this dark moment in Italian history?
657
00:40:17,160 --> 00:40:19,640
Definitely. Definitely, both of them.
658
00:40:19,640 --> 00:40:22,640
They really are very,
very sad pictures.
659
00:40:22,640 --> 00:40:25,080
You know, because my family have
been through that.
660
00:40:25,080 --> 00:40:28,560
My uncle got shot by the Fascists.
He was a partisan?
661
00:40:28,560 --> 00:40:30,480
He was a partisan and he got killed.
662
00:40:30,480 --> 00:40:33,000
All the family were
involved in the Resistance.
663
00:40:33,000 --> 00:40:35,480
When you hear my father
talking about those years,
664
00:40:35,480 --> 00:40:39,040
they just, you know, they were
really suffering, there was no food.
665
00:40:39,040 --> 00:40:41,120
The Americans were coming
and bombing,
666
00:40:41,120 --> 00:40:42,800
the Germans were running away,
667
00:40:42,800 --> 00:40:47,360
you know, it's just really
like a social implosion, the wars.
668
00:40:47,360 --> 00:40:50,440
You know, somewhere along the line
you understood that this was
669
00:40:50,440 --> 00:40:52,440
what was going to happen.
670
00:40:52,440 --> 00:40:54,760
It's a rollercoaster ride,
Italian history.
671
00:40:54,760 --> 00:40:57,800
'Despite the trauma suffered
at the hands of the Fascists,
672
00:40:57,800 --> 00:41:00,440
'the country bounced back.
673
00:41:00,440 --> 00:41:03,520
'After the Second World War,
Lombardy rolled its sleeves up
674
00:41:03,520 --> 00:41:07,040
'and kick started the economic
boom of the '50s and '60s,
675
00:41:07,040 --> 00:41:10,400
'that transformed
Italy into a modern country.'
676
00:41:16,120 --> 00:41:18,360
'Even though they never stand still,
677
00:41:18,360 --> 00:41:21,800
'the people of Lombardy never
forget their roots.
678
00:41:21,800 --> 00:41:25,240
'Much of Lombard life is
rooted in our food,
679
00:41:25,240 --> 00:41:29,480
'the kind of staple dishes
I grew up eating.
680
00:41:29,480 --> 00:41:32,520
'After a busy day,
I think it's time for Andrew
681
00:41:32,520 --> 00:41:34,800
'to experience a local classic.'
682
00:41:34,800 --> 00:41:37,840
We've been poncing around a lot.
Poncing around?
683
00:41:37,840 --> 00:41:40,640
Yeah, we've been,
we've been in the super shops
684
00:41:40,640 --> 00:41:43,320
and things like that,
I want to show the heart
685
00:41:43,320 --> 00:41:45,960
that's really what the people eat,
you know.
686
00:41:45,960 --> 00:41:48,520
So you're going to de-poncify
us through food.
687
00:41:48,520 --> 00:41:49,800
Yes, that's right.
688
00:41:49,800 --> 00:41:52,120
So we have check out one very
important ingredient.
689
00:41:52,120 --> 00:41:54,840
It's very early in the season,
see if we've got any cabbage.
690
00:41:54,840 --> 00:41:56,560
If we've got cabbage,
I can cook you Cassoeula.
691
00:42:06,040 --> 00:42:10,920
'Hearty and earthy, the Cassoeula is
just as representative
692
00:42:10,920 --> 00:42:13,960
'of Lombardy as Marchesi's
delicate risotto.
693
00:42:13,960 --> 00:42:17,840
'With the vegetables chosen,
it's time to go to the butchers,
694
00:42:17,840 --> 00:42:20,280
'the Macelleria
of Roberto Faravelli.'
695
00:42:21,880 --> 00:42:23,520
See, this is the Macelleria.
696
00:42:23,520 --> 00:42:26,480
This has been here for 50 years,
Andrew, you know.
697
00:42:26,480 --> 00:42:29,040
We're going to meet the son.
698
00:42:29,040 --> 00:42:32,600
'The meat is the most important
part of the Cassoeula.
699
00:42:32,600 --> 00:42:35,320
'This is real nose-to-tail eating.
700
00:42:35,320 --> 00:42:39,400
'And I know Roberto will sort us
out with the best cuts.'
701
00:42:39,400 --> 00:42:40,760
HE SPEAKS ITALIAN
702
00:43:07,800 --> 00:43:10,840
This is puntina. Pork, spare ribs.
Spare ribs, yeah.
703
00:43:14,280 --> 00:43:16,080
HE LAUGHS
704
00:43:16,080 --> 00:43:17,840
Sexy Italia, eh!
705
00:43:17,840 --> 00:43:19,120
THEY LAUGH
706
00:43:19,120 --> 00:43:21,640
The nose. The nose. Si.
707
00:43:26,120 --> 00:43:28,400
Gelatine. Gelatine.
708
00:43:28,400 --> 00:43:31,680
So you put the pig's nose in to
make, to make it gelatinous?
709
00:43:31,680 --> 00:43:33,400
That's right.
710
00:43:33,400 --> 00:43:35,160
Ears. Ears.
711
00:43:36,600 --> 00:43:38,280
Nice and cruchant. Cruchant.
712
00:43:41,800 --> 00:43:45,600
How do you say in Italian, that's a
meal to put hairs on a man's chest?
713
00:43:45,600 --> 00:43:47,640
GIORGIO TRANSLATES
714
00:43:50,240 --> 00:43:52,040
THEY LAUGH
715
00:44:09,960 --> 00:44:12,000
Grazie! Arrivederci, grazie.
716
00:44:18,520 --> 00:44:22,880
'Now it's time to get to work, and
there's quite a lot of work to do.
717
00:44:25,000 --> 00:44:27,040
'It's ages since I've cooked it.'
718
00:44:29,560 --> 00:44:32,040
Beautiful, isn't it?
719
00:44:32,040 --> 00:44:33,520
Yeah, beautiful.
720
00:44:38,280 --> 00:44:41,040
The smells, the colour,
721
00:44:41,040 --> 00:44:43,360
you know, this is what food is
all about for me.
722
00:44:43,360 --> 00:44:47,200
This is the smell that I used to
smell as I came home from school.
723
00:44:47,200 --> 00:44:50,600
As soon as I got to the
gate of the house, I knew that my
724
00:44:50,600 --> 00:44:55,640
grandmother was cooking this, because
you could smell it from outside.
725
00:44:55,640 --> 00:44:58,520
Red wine. Red wine.
726
00:44:59,840 --> 00:45:02,560
Mmm, it's such a good smell.
It is, isn't it?
727
00:45:02,560 --> 00:45:06,000
Now it's cooking. So we're going to
add the rest of the pig.
728
00:45:06,000 --> 00:45:07,640
Do you want me
to shave the pig's ear?
729
00:45:07,640 --> 00:45:10,560
That's right. Well,
I want you to take away the hair.
730
00:45:10,560 --> 00:45:11,840
Just like that, yes.
731
00:45:11,840 --> 00:45:14,360
And in the meantime, while
you're doing that,
732
00:45:14,360 --> 00:45:17,800
I'm going to add the other pieces.
The tail, the snout.
733
00:45:17,800 --> 00:45:20,440
This feels to me,
like a recipe that people have been
734
00:45:20,440 --> 00:45:21,880
cooking for many centuries.
735
00:45:21,880 --> 00:45:24,920
The idea is, they're using these
parts because they are the parts
736
00:45:24,920 --> 00:45:28,280
that are ready to be used straight
away when you've killed the pig.
737
00:45:28,280 --> 00:45:31,040
The rest of the meat, if it's
hanged for a bit, it's better.
738
00:45:31,040 --> 00:45:34,880
The ham will go and be cured, the
back will be back heated and slice.
739
00:45:34,880 --> 00:45:38,200
Oh, cos this is the dish for the
day of killing of the pig, right.
740
00:45:38,200 --> 00:45:40,160
That's right, that's right.
741
00:45:40,160 --> 00:45:42,600
OK.
Oh, it all begins to make sense.
742
00:45:42,600 --> 00:45:44,600
Here I've got the cabbage.
743
00:45:47,040 --> 00:45:50,920
Cabbage and pig, it's a classic
combination, isn't it?
744
00:45:50,920 --> 00:45:52,480
Absolutely.
745
00:45:52,480 --> 00:45:56,000
And now all we have to do is
wait for a couple of hours.
746
00:45:59,440 --> 00:46:02,200
OK, we are happy.
747
00:46:03,920 --> 00:46:07,960
'Finally, it's ready and time for
Andrew to taste Lombardy.'
748
00:46:10,640 --> 00:46:13,800
Andrew, I introduce you to
the Cassoeula.
749
00:46:13,800 --> 00:46:15,880
Mmm. Smell that.
750
00:46:15,880 --> 00:46:18,200
Mmm, fantastic.
751
00:46:18,200 --> 00:46:20,840
The nose.
752
00:46:20,840 --> 00:46:22,440
It looks lovely.
753
00:46:22,440 --> 00:46:25,000
I'm going to have the ears.
754
00:46:25,000 --> 00:46:27,280
Is there another ear?
I'll give you half of my ear.
755
00:46:27,280 --> 00:46:29,280
Then, Andrew, what you do...
756
00:46:29,280 --> 00:46:31,280
You excavate some cabbage.
757
00:46:32,960 --> 00:46:35,400
The cabbage is fantastic,
758
00:46:35,400 --> 00:46:37,880
it's completely permeated with
the meat juices.
759
00:46:37,880 --> 00:46:40,360
And kind of sweet, you know.
760
00:46:40,360 --> 00:46:42,240
It's a bit of ear.
761
00:46:42,240 --> 00:46:45,680
It's like cutting into jelly,
fantastic.
762
00:46:46,960 --> 00:46:48,760
Mmm, it's really good.
763
00:46:48,760 --> 00:46:51,440
Completely melts in your mouth,
doesn't it?
764
00:46:51,440 --> 00:46:53,040
It's fantastic food.
765
00:46:53,040 --> 00:46:56,480
I love food that belongs to
somewhere, to a culture.
766
00:46:56,480 --> 00:46:58,960
And this, for me, it's Lombardy.
767
00:46:58,960 --> 00:47:01,800
Fantastic. Cheers.
768
00:47:01,800 --> 00:47:03,200
Cheers.
769
00:47:03,200 --> 00:47:05,360
And the next two hours eating.
770
00:47:05,360 --> 00:47:08,720
That's OK. We got time.
Pace yourself.
771
00:47:08,720 --> 00:47:10,760
I know, we've got a lot to
get through.
772
00:47:14,000 --> 00:47:17,640
'The Cassoeula was the perfect dish
to change gear
773
00:47:17,640 --> 00:47:19,480
'and lead us out of Milan.
774
00:47:19,480 --> 00:47:22,720
'We've come to Mantua,
in the Po Valley,
775
00:47:22,720 --> 00:47:25,560
'one of Lombardy's great treasures.
776
00:47:28,000 --> 00:47:32,040
'Tranquil and elegant, it's home to
the second great masterpiece
777
00:47:32,040 --> 00:47:34,320
'I want us to visit.
778
00:47:43,000 --> 00:47:46,080
'The work of art is to be
found inside the Palazzo Te,
779
00:47:46,080 --> 00:47:51,320
'a hunting lodge built in 1525 for
the powerful Duke Federico Gonzaga.
780
00:47:52,760 --> 00:47:55,720
'I think Giorgio may even like it
more than the frescos
781
00:47:55,720 --> 00:47:57,040
'we saw at Villa Suardi.'
782
00:47:58,480 --> 00:48:01,120
Prego signore. Cavaliere.
783
00:48:01,120 --> 00:48:03,760
'Inspired by the grand
villas of Rome,
784
00:48:03,760 --> 00:48:07,400
'the palace was
designed by architect and painter
Giulio Romano.'
785
00:48:08,840 --> 00:48:11,680
So, Giorgio, welcome to
the Palazzo Te.
786
00:48:11,680 --> 00:48:13,920
These guys used to
live in luxury, didn't they?
787
00:48:13,920 --> 00:48:15,960
Well, I think of
this as the house of fun.
788
00:48:15,960 --> 00:48:17,840
The whole place was once
full of jokes.
789
00:48:17,840 --> 00:48:20,160
This courtyard, originally,
there was a labyrinth,
790
00:48:20,160 --> 00:48:22,480
so even trying to get into this
place, you'd get lost.
791
00:48:22,480 --> 00:48:24,880
Unless you were with the Duke,
who would take you through.
792
00:48:24,880 --> 00:48:26,840
Oh, right.
It was just full of little games.
793
00:48:26,840 --> 00:48:28,360
So here we are.
794
00:48:28,360 --> 00:48:32,320
Now this palace was not a place
for serious thought.
795
00:48:32,320 --> 00:48:35,840
It wasn't a place for the
administration of his estates.
796
00:48:35,840 --> 00:48:37,560
It wasn't a place for business.
797
00:48:37,560 --> 00:48:40,520
It was, so to speak, a place for
monkey business.
798
00:48:40,520 --> 00:48:42,160
No way!
799
00:48:42,160 --> 00:48:47,040
And er, I think the theme of this
set of illustrations,
800
00:48:47,040 --> 00:48:51,320
or decorations, is basically
sex and drinking.
801
00:48:51,320 --> 00:48:55,040
'Inside, Giulio combined his skills
to create some truly
802
00:48:55,040 --> 00:48:57,920
'sense-stunning illusions.'
803
00:48:57,920 --> 00:49:00,200
Everything I've shown you so far
804
00:49:00,200 --> 00:49:03,480
is a prelude to Giulio Romano's
piece de resistance.
805
00:49:06,160 --> 00:49:10,520
Wow! Oh, my God!
806
00:49:10,520 --> 00:49:13,000
Come in the middle,
come in the middle.
807
00:49:13,000 --> 00:49:14,640
It's so brilliant.
808
00:49:15,840 --> 00:49:17,880
Oh.
809
00:49:17,880 --> 00:49:20,240
It makes you almost feel sick,
doesn't it?
810
00:49:20,240 --> 00:49:23,120
It's like it's
falling down, the whole thing.
811
00:49:23,120 --> 00:49:24,800
Is it not straight or something?
812
00:49:24,800 --> 00:49:28,880
No, it's not straight at all.
The room's got no corners, you see.
813
00:49:28,880 --> 00:49:33,120
So that's why you feel like
you really fell down, doesn't it?
814
00:49:33,120 --> 00:49:34,800
Wow!
815
00:49:34,800 --> 00:49:37,000
And originally,
the floor was undulating,
816
00:49:37,000 --> 00:49:40,440
so when you came in,
you would almost stumble
817
00:49:40,440 --> 00:49:43,280
and feel like you were taking
part in the scene,
818
00:49:43,280 --> 00:49:45,880
because the subject, in a sense,
819
00:49:45,880 --> 00:49:49,600
is the biggest earthquake in
mythological history.
820
00:49:49,600 --> 00:49:51,280
It's called the Sala Dei Giganti.
821
00:49:53,560 --> 00:49:57,000
And the story is,
that the giants had tried to
822
00:49:57,000 --> 00:49:59,400
rebel against Jupiter in heaven.
823
00:49:59,400 --> 00:50:02,000
And Jupiter punishes the giants
824
00:50:02,000 --> 00:50:04,720
by striking them
with the thunder and lightning.
825
00:50:06,040 --> 00:50:08,480
Oh, this is incredible!
826
00:50:08,480 --> 00:50:10,720
Giulio Romano was taught by Raphael,
827
00:50:10,720 --> 00:50:13,160
the great master of the
High Renaissance.
828
00:50:13,160 --> 00:50:15,960
And master of the calm and
tranquillity, order, reason.
829
00:50:15,960 --> 00:50:19,240
And this, so to speak, is the first
thing that Giulio Romano does
830
00:50:19,240 --> 00:50:21,000
after he gets out of school.
831
00:50:21,000 --> 00:50:22,880
He's rebelling against his teachers.
832
00:50:22,880 --> 00:50:26,040
It's almost as if he's bringing
down the great edifice
833
00:50:26,040 --> 00:50:27,560
of the High Renaissance.
834
00:50:27,560 --> 00:50:30,240
He's bringing it down with his
jokes and his games,
835
00:50:30,240 --> 00:50:33,480
poking fun at it, making fun of it.
836
00:50:33,480 --> 00:50:36,520
This style of art is called,
Maniera, Mannerism.
837
00:50:36,520 --> 00:50:40,560
It's a reaction against all that
purity, all that classicism.
838
00:50:40,560 --> 00:50:42,000
It's incredible.
839
00:50:45,840 --> 00:50:47,680
What a place, eh!
840
00:50:47,680 --> 00:50:49,720
I'm glad you liked it.
841
00:50:49,720 --> 00:50:52,560
'Palazzo Te certainly packs a punch.
842
00:50:52,560 --> 00:50:54,760
'But it's not just
architecture and painting
843
00:50:54,760 --> 00:50:57,240
'that Lombardy does brilliantly.
844
00:51:01,480 --> 00:51:05,000
'A short drive away in Cremona,
is another example of
845
00:51:05,000 --> 00:51:07,960
'the perfect marriage of tradition
and innovation.
846
00:51:10,120 --> 00:51:13,280
'It's the home of the
Stradivari violin.
847
00:51:13,280 --> 00:51:16,520
'Antonio Stradivari perfected
the art of violin-making
848
00:51:16,520 --> 00:51:18,840
'here in the 18th century.
849
00:51:18,840 --> 00:51:23,000
'The Lombards have always been proud
of their excellent craftsmanship,
850
00:51:23,000 --> 00:51:25,680
'and they are still making
instruments
851
00:51:25,680 --> 00:51:28,000
'to the Stradivari standard today.
852
00:51:28,000 --> 00:51:31,440
'We are visiting the International
School Of Violin Making.'
853
00:51:32,920 --> 00:51:34,560
Number five, here we are.
854
00:51:34,560 --> 00:51:36,440
Come, Andrew.
855
00:51:42,680 --> 00:51:45,080
When I was little,
I used to go in Varese
856
00:51:45,080 --> 00:51:47,800
and there was this shop where these
guys made violins.
857
00:51:47,800 --> 00:51:51,280
And I was so fascinated by how
they made them.
858
00:51:51,280 --> 00:51:54,920
Signor Daniele, buongiorno.
Buongiorno.
859
00:51:54,920 --> 00:51:58,000
Signor Andrea. Piacere.
860
00:52:00,160 --> 00:52:03,040
Look at those tools that they
have to make it.
861
00:52:03,040 --> 00:52:04,920
I love the precision and it takes...
862
00:52:09,960 --> 00:52:12,400
..50 days to make a violin. 50!
863
00:52:12,400 --> 00:52:16,240
50 working days.
So it is a work of love.
864
00:52:16,240 --> 00:52:18,160
I notice that he's...
865
00:52:29,480 --> 00:52:33,320
One little stroke of that wrong,
you can just mess it all up.
866
00:52:33,320 --> 00:52:39,240
So, to me, this is artisan work
taken to a different level.
867
00:52:39,240 --> 00:52:42,240
Look at that. Beautiful!
868
00:52:42,240 --> 00:52:45,800
Every liutaio goes
and chooses his own wood,
869
00:52:45,800 --> 00:52:49,360
like an artist would
choose his own colours.
870
00:52:49,360 --> 00:52:51,800
Michelangelo going to Carrera
to choose his marble.
871
00:52:51,800 --> 00:52:54,080
Or a chef choosing his own
ingredients. Yeah.
872
00:52:54,080 --> 00:52:56,480
You know, the principle
ingredient is the wood.
873
00:52:56,480 --> 00:53:00,120
'Stradivari violins are the most
valuable in the world.
874
00:53:00,120 --> 00:53:03,560
'In the town's museum,
there is an unrivalled collection
875
00:53:03,560 --> 00:53:06,720
'of some of the Master's
original instruments.
876
00:53:06,720 --> 00:53:11,520
'To preserve their sound,
they must to be played regularly.
877
00:53:11,520 --> 00:53:15,480
'I've arranged for us to have a
private audience with Maestro Bosco,
878
00:53:15,480 --> 00:53:19,840
'the person responsible for keeping
these precious objects alive.'
879
00:53:39,320 --> 00:53:41,560
We're going to hear a
Stradivarius. Yes.
880
00:53:41,560 --> 00:53:43,560
And it's called Vesuvius. Vesuvius.
881
00:53:45,480 --> 00:53:49,200
'I can't quite believe we're going
to have our own private concert
882
00:53:49,200 --> 00:53:52,120
'played on an original
Stradivarius.'
883
00:53:52,120 --> 00:53:53,880
Vesuvio.
884
00:53:55,160 --> 00:53:57,120
HE PLAYS THE VIOLIN
885
00:54:06,320 --> 00:54:07,840
'This is such a treat.
886
00:54:07,840 --> 00:54:10,840
'I never realised that Stradivari
was from Lombardy,
887
00:54:10,840 --> 00:54:12,840
'but it all makes sense.
888
00:54:12,840 --> 00:54:15,720
'The attention to detail,
the beautiful design,
889
00:54:15,720 --> 00:54:18,320
'the utter fitness for purpose.'
890
00:54:32,120 --> 00:54:35,440
'There is one last stop for us
in Lombardy.
891
00:54:35,440 --> 00:54:38,640
'A place that for me
epitomises the spirit of the region,
892
00:54:38,640 --> 00:54:40,840
'the Taccani power station.
893
00:54:42,120 --> 00:54:46,040
'Built in 1904, it was one
of a series of hydro electric plants
894
00:54:46,040 --> 00:54:50,640
'on the river Adda, that powered
the modern success of Lombardy.
895
00:54:50,640 --> 00:54:54,680
'My father and his father before him
were hydraulic engineers,
896
00:54:54,680 --> 00:54:58,200
'so places like this
are special to me.'
897
00:54:58,200 --> 00:55:00,680
Going and seeing my father
when he was working,
898
00:55:00,680 --> 00:55:02,560
I spent a lot of time in
places like that.
899
00:55:02,560 --> 00:55:04,440
But, you know, it is so important
900
00:55:04,440 --> 00:55:07,680
because this is
the blood of Lombardy.
901
00:55:07,680 --> 00:55:11,800
They found themselves with a really
enormous light industry that
902
00:55:11,800 --> 00:55:14,200
needed energy to propel it forward.
903
00:55:14,200 --> 00:55:18,680
They didn't have anything to
burn, so they harnessed the power
904
00:55:18,680 --> 00:55:21,280
of these mountains
and this water coming down.
905
00:55:21,280 --> 00:55:24,320
I love these old machines,
I think they are wonderful.
906
00:55:24,320 --> 00:55:26,040
They are incredible, aren't they?
907
00:55:26,040 --> 00:55:29,080
This is like a...it's really
an expression of what the
908
00:55:29,080 --> 00:55:33,840
Lombards are, which is about
movement, energy, going forwards,
909
00:55:33,840 --> 00:55:38,160
building, you know, just
getting things moving all the time.
910
00:55:38,160 --> 00:55:40,160
They really built them
to last, didn't they?
911
00:55:40,160 --> 00:55:42,160
To think they were made in 1904,
912
00:55:42,160 --> 00:55:44,640
and they're still powering
Lombardy with electricity.
913
00:55:44,640 --> 00:55:46,120
Still, yeah.
914
00:55:46,120 --> 00:55:48,080
And what is really,
really nice as well is,
915
00:55:48,080 --> 00:55:51,160
the river makes the motion to get
the tram in Milan to work.
916
00:55:51,160 --> 00:55:55,400
And it is lovely to think that
energy then propelled that thing
917
00:55:55,400 --> 00:55:58,640
all the way through
the Futurism to everybody.
918
00:55:58,640 --> 00:56:00,680
Oh, I was going to say
without this place,
919
00:56:00,680 --> 00:56:02,760
Futurism wouldn't have been
possible. Absolutely.
920
00:56:02,760 --> 00:56:05,600
They were celebrating
the electrical city.
921
00:56:05,600 --> 00:56:08,280
There's so much noise in here.
Yeah, there is.
922
00:56:08,280 --> 00:56:11,440
It makes me feel like I am
in a cathedral full of machines!
923
00:56:14,400 --> 00:56:17,360
Strikes me that this is quite a
good place to end our journey,
924
00:56:17,360 --> 00:56:20,160
given that we have been
banging on about how Lombardy is
925
00:56:20,160 --> 00:56:22,240
the motor that drives Italy.
926
00:56:22,240 --> 00:56:25,560
And here we are,
at a turbine station that furnishes
927
00:56:25,560 --> 00:56:28,120
half of the electricity
of the region.
928
00:56:28,120 --> 00:56:29,760
Pretty amazing building.
929
00:56:29,760 --> 00:56:31,200
It's great, it's like a palace.
930
00:56:31,200 --> 00:56:33,880
It's like the Palazzo del
Te, except instead of having...
931
00:56:33,880 --> 00:56:36,120
Palazzo del electricita.
932
00:56:36,120 --> 00:56:39,520
I think it really sums up what I've
got from this particular journey,
933
00:56:39,520 --> 00:56:44,400
which is a really strong sense of
the role that this part of Italy
934
00:56:44,400 --> 00:56:47,240
has played in the larger
Italian story.
935
00:56:47,240 --> 00:56:51,040
I think really Lombardy has
sort of electrically propelled
936
00:56:51,040 --> 00:56:53,480
the rest into the 20th century.
937
00:56:53,480 --> 00:56:55,840
Well, that's the reason that
I took you here,
938
00:56:55,840 --> 00:57:00,920
because I really see the connection
between these kind of spaces.
939
00:57:00,920 --> 00:57:07,360
These kind of showpieces like
this are very beautiful to see,
940
00:57:07,360 --> 00:57:10,400
but, as well, they really show
the resilience of the Lombard.
941
00:57:10,400 --> 00:57:13,000
And that meal you cooked,
what did you call it, the cass...?
942
00:57:13,000 --> 00:57:15,040
Cassoeula. Cassoeula. Yeah.
943
00:57:15,040 --> 00:57:17,760
I felt that it was
a really nice transition.
944
00:57:17,760 --> 00:57:21,560
It helped me understand, as it were,
where Lombardy came from,
945
00:57:21,560 --> 00:57:24,840
because that, to me,
felt like the origins of this place.
946
00:57:24,840 --> 00:57:28,320
I was going back to something that
people had eaten almost for ever.
947
00:57:28,320 --> 00:57:32,440
And it wasn't very fancy, it wasn't
very posh, it was really rustic.
948
00:57:32,440 --> 00:57:34,960
That's food from the fields,
and that, to me,
949
00:57:34,960 --> 00:57:38,960
almost was a symbol of how far
they rose, you know.
950
00:57:38,960 --> 00:57:42,440
Through that cathedral,
bringing all the intellectuals here.
951
00:57:42,440 --> 00:57:43,760
Through that culture of design
952
00:57:43,760 --> 00:57:46,320
gradually developing into
the 19th century,
953
00:57:46,320 --> 00:57:50,240
It's an amazing evolution
from really quite low origins.
954
00:57:50,240 --> 00:57:56,480
This is also based really
on an absolutely strong work ethic.
955
00:57:56,480 --> 00:58:00,720
Everybody realised themselves
through work.
956
00:58:00,720 --> 00:58:02,600
Work is like a religion for them.
957
00:58:02,600 --> 00:58:05,280
When they get up in the morning
and see you in the square,
958
00:58:05,280 --> 00:58:06,840
they don't say to you, "How are you?"
959
00:58:06,840 --> 00:58:10,240
They say, "Come va il lavoro?",
which means, "How's the work?"
960
00:58:10,240 --> 00:58:11,800
How's the work?!
961
00:58:11,800 --> 00:58:14,040
How's the work,
yeah, how do you do in the work?
962
00:58:14,040 --> 00:58:17,000
Do you think I've finally...hey,
maybe I've finally understood
963
00:58:17,000 --> 00:58:20,120
that's why you're the way you are!
Why?
964
00:58:20,120 --> 00:58:23,080
Because you are a Lombard,
you never stop working!
965
00:58:24,600 --> 00:58:27,560
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