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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,880 --> 00:00:05,920 I'm Andrew Graham Dickson and I'm an art historian. 2 00:00:05,920 --> 00:00:09,360 I'm Giorgio Locatelli and I'm a chef. 3 00:00:09,360 --> 00:00:13,200 We are both passionate about my homeland, Italy. 4 00:00:13,200 --> 00:00:18,280 The smells, the colour, this is what food is all about for me. 5 00:00:18,280 --> 00:00:23,240 The rich flavours and classic dishes of this land are in my culinary DNA. 6 00:00:23,240 --> 00:00:25,720 And this country's rich layers of art 7 00:00:25,720 --> 00:00:29,040 and history have captivated me since childhood. 8 00:00:29,040 --> 00:00:33,600 It's enough to make you feel as if you are being whirled up to heaven. 9 00:00:33,600 --> 00:00:36,800 We're stepping off the tourist track and exploring Italy's 10 00:00:36,800 --> 00:00:41,440 Northern regions of Emilia-Romagna, Lombardy and Piedmont. 11 00:00:41,440 --> 00:00:44,520 It's part of Italy that's often overlooked, but it drives 12 00:00:44,520 --> 00:00:48,160 the whole country and I want to show off its classic dishes. 13 00:00:48,160 --> 00:00:53,040 Not to mention its hidden legacy of artist, designers, intellectuals. 14 00:00:53,040 --> 00:00:56,080 Wow, this is incredible. 15 00:00:56,080 --> 00:00:59,120 This week we are in Lombardy, where I grew up. 16 00:00:59,120 --> 00:01:04,000 I can't wait to introduce Andrew to the hearty Lombardy food of my youth. 17 00:01:04,000 --> 00:01:07,880 We'll also enjoy the ingenious art and thrilling design that 18 00:01:07,880 --> 00:01:11,560 reveal how this region really is the motor of Italy. 19 00:01:30,000 --> 00:01:33,240 Lombardy may not be the most exotic region in Italy, 20 00:01:33,240 --> 00:01:35,600 but, for me, it's special. 21 00:01:35,600 --> 00:01:40,400 Bordering Switzerland, we are closer here to Zurich than Rome. 22 00:01:40,400 --> 00:01:43,640 There is only one place to start our journey, 23 00:01:43,640 --> 00:01:47,640 my home town of Corgeno, by Lake Maggiore. 24 00:01:47,640 --> 00:01:50,520 I've cooked for Andrew many times at my restaurant, 25 00:01:50,520 --> 00:01:54,560 but I'm taking him to where it all started, Casa Locatelli. 26 00:01:54,560 --> 00:01:55,840 Mama, Papa. 27 00:02:06,520 --> 00:02:08,000 Oh, ciao, Mama. 28 00:02:12,280 --> 00:02:14,200 Small daddy, he's a small daddy. 29 00:02:14,200 --> 00:02:16,520 He used to be bigger than me, but now he's... 30 00:02:20,920 --> 00:02:23,040 Ferruccio. Pinuccia and Ferruccio. 31 00:02:24,680 --> 00:02:27,800 No, I'll remember, I'll remember. I'm hungry. 32 00:02:27,800 --> 00:02:30,320 'We're here for lunch and polenta's on the menu.' 33 00:02:34,400 --> 00:02:37,520 You see, what happens here is, my mum runs the kitchen 34 00:02:37,520 --> 00:02:40,400 and even when I come home, I'm not allowed to cook. 35 00:02:40,400 --> 00:02:42,520 So she cooks all the time. 36 00:02:47,400 --> 00:02:51,320 An exception is made for polenta. Polenta is a man thing. 37 00:02:51,320 --> 00:02:56,120 So my dad, as you can see, he's ready with his apron. 38 00:02:56,120 --> 00:02:58,000 So we're going to leave my mum here. 39 00:02:59,760 --> 00:03:02,640 No. No, no, we do it on the fire on the garden. 40 00:03:02,640 --> 00:03:05,800 So we're going to cook the polenta downstairs. Let's go. 41 00:03:09,520 --> 00:03:11,160 SHE SPEAKS ITALIAN 42 00:03:11,160 --> 00:03:13,600 It has to taste of smoke, otherwise, it's not good. 43 00:03:13,600 --> 00:03:15,640 Even though she's the captain of the kitchen, 44 00:03:15,640 --> 00:03:18,480 she's still telling you how to do the polenta. 45 00:03:20,720 --> 00:03:22,920 She's got to prepare the mushroom and the thing 46 00:03:22,920 --> 00:03:24,520 and we go and do the polenta. 47 00:03:24,520 --> 00:03:28,800 'Polenta, made from ground maize, really is the pasta of the north. 48 00:03:28,800 --> 00:03:32,760 'In fact, the southerners call us Lombards, Polentoni, 49 00:03:32,760 --> 00:03:35,160 'because we eat so much of the stuff.' 50 00:03:35,160 --> 00:03:40,240 OK, you see, it's the most simple thing. You know, you just need a fire 51 00:03:40,240 --> 00:03:45,520 and a paiolo, which is this like cast iron, and then copper inside. 52 00:03:45,520 --> 00:03:48,920 And so, I remember when I was little I used to see all the shepherds 53 00:03:48,920 --> 00:03:52,080 going around with their flocks, and they had the donkey 54 00:03:52,080 --> 00:03:55,240 and on the donkey they will have the paiolo on the back. 55 00:03:55,240 --> 00:03:57,960 So that would actually make polenta in the field? That's right. 56 00:03:57,960 --> 00:04:00,640 On the open fire? That's why you make it on the open fire. 57 00:04:00,640 --> 00:04:03,880 During the war, that was the only thing that they had, 58 00:04:03,880 --> 00:04:06,760 polenta and when the partisan, which were striving here, 59 00:04:06,760 --> 00:04:09,960 you know it's like lost... The heroes? The heroes. That lived in the woods. 60 00:04:09,960 --> 00:04:12,280 Yeah, you know they were living in the woods. 61 00:04:12,280 --> 00:04:15,160 They'll camp, you're duty as a, somebody that 62 00:04:15,160 --> 00:04:18,200 didn't like the Fascists, obviously, at that point 63 00:04:18,200 --> 00:04:21,320 was to give half of your polenta to them. 64 00:04:21,320 --> 00:04:23,680 A beautiful colour! It's like saffron or something. 65 00:04:23,680 --> 00:04:26,880 Beautiful yellow. This is Roberto This is your... This is my brother. 66 00:04:26,880 --> 00:04:30,520 This is your brother. You look exactly, nothing like you. 67 00:04:30,520 --> 00:04:34,640 No, he's been training how to do polenta for the last 20 years. 68 00:04:34,640 --> 00:04:37,080 Who's the older brother? He is. 69 00:04:37,080 --> 00:04:39,520 And he's the one that's getting all the training. 70 00:04:39,520 --> 00:04:42,240 I'm just been around just doing Michelin starred food. 71 00:04:42,240 --> 00:04:44,600 You know, something not very important. 72 00:04:46,760 --> 00:04:49,480 I'm hungry. Is this the moment of truth? 73 00:04:49,480 --> 00:04:51,800 This is the most important moment. 74 00:04:58,640 --> 00:05:00,840 The man job is done, now we've got to go upstairs 75 00:05:00,840 --> 00:05:03,360 and see what the girls have managed to... Fantastic. 76 00:05:03,360 --> 00:05:04,720 ..Rustle up. 77 00:05:04,720 --> 00:05:08,320 I like the way, I like the way it's all swaddled up like a baby. 78 00:05:09,600 --> 00:05:13,640 While we were making the polenta, my mum was busy whipping up 79 00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:17,520 a meaty brochette and some delicious porcini mushrooms. 80 00:05:21,640 --> 00:05:23,080 Come, sit down. 81 00:05:23,080 --> 00:05:27,200 'This is the kind of food that ignited my love affair with cooking. 82 00:05:27,200 --> 00:05:30,200 'Hearty and simple, just the way I like it.' 83 00:05:30,200 --> 00:05:32,840 Wow. Look at the lake. 84 00:05:32,840 --> 00:05:35,840 Eh, and eat the polenta. Now you are full emersion. 85 00:05:35,840 --> 00:05:39,240 You smell it? This woody smell. Mmm.. 86 00:05:39,240 --> 00:05:43,720 You see how the flavours are so settled, so...? Mellow, gentle. 87 00:05:43,720 --> 00:05:45,560 Mellow, gentle. 88 00:05:45,560 --> 00:05:48,400 Almost like it reflects the personality of the people. 89 00:05:48,400 --> 00:05:50,640 Here, the people are a bit more mellow, 90 00:05:50,640 --> 00:05:54,160 and the nature determine what the people eat, but it almost 91 00:05:54,160 --> 00:05:57,160 looks like you almost determine the character of the people. 92 00:06:01,840 --> 00:06:06,440 Having visited Giorgio's home, it's only reinforced my sense of how 93 00:06:06,440 --> 00:06:11,120 strong an influence his earthy Lombard roots have had on him. 94 00:06:11,120 --> 00:06:14,400 But there are still sides to this region he doesn't know. 95 00:06:14,400 --> 00:06:17,640 Lombardy is a treasure trove of surprising little known 96 00:06:17,640 --> 00:06:21,800 works of art, and near the town of Bergamo there's a fascinating 97 00:06:21,800 --> 00:06:24,720 masterpiece Giorgio has never seen before. 98 00:06:24,720 --> 00:06:28,480 Just a few miles from where you live, there's this chapel attached 99 00:06:28,480 --> 00:06:33,080 to a grand house, and inside the chapel is one of the most 100 00:06:33,080 --> 00:06:37,120 extraordinary weird fresco cycles of the whole Renaissance. 101 00:06:37,120 --> 00:06:39,160 Right. By an artist called Lorenzo Lotto. 102 00:06:39,160 --> 00:06:42,200 Right. It's absolutely bizarre. 103 00:06:42,200 --> 00:06:47,080 He's like the Renaissance version of Magritte or Salvador Dali. OK. 104 00:06:48,880 --> 00:06:51,720 The frescos he created here in 1524 105 00:06:51,720 --> 00:06:55,160 were commissioned for the private chapel of the Suardi family, 106 00:06:55,160 --> 00:06:58,800 one of the oldest and most influential in the region. 107 00:06:58,800 --> 00:07:01,080 The chapel isn't usually opened to the public, 108 00:07:01,080 --> 00:07:04,200 but the family have kindly agreed to let us in. 109 00:07:11,680 --> 00:07:15,520 Same. The same family from the time, so from the time of Lorenzo Lotto, 110 00:07:15,520 --> 00:07:18,160 500 years later, still the same family. 111 00:07:18,160 --> 00:07:19,480 Oh, that's fantastic. 112 00:07:21,200 --> 00:07:23,800 Originally, the Suardis didn't reserve the chapel 113 00:07:23,800 --> 00:07:26,080 for their own exclusive use. 114 00:07:26,080 --> 00:07:30,960 Ordinary people who lived locally were encouraged to worship here. 115 00:07:30,960 --> 00:07:35,800 The works of art inside plunge you back to 16th-century Lombardy, 116 00:07:35,800 --> 00:07:39,240 a world in the grip of the Reformation. 117 00:07:41,120 --> 00:07:46,200 What do you think of this extraordinary weird image? 118 00:07:46,200 --> 00:07:49,040 Yeah, it's like this fingers, isn't it? 119 00:07:49,040 --> 00:07:50,840 It's very weird, surreal isn't it? 120 00:07:50,840 --> 00:07:55,320 It's absolutely surreal. Christ in need of a manicure. 121 00:07:55,320 --> 00:07:58,400 He's got these strange...it reminds me of that German story 122 00:07:58,400 --> 00:08:01,600 Struwwelpeter, the boy who lets his nails grow for ever. 123 00:08:01,600 --> 00:08:03,840 If you look, you see there's a little clue at the top 124 00:08:03,840 --> 00:08:05,480 actually to what's going on. 125 00:08:05,480 --> 00:08:09,840 Lorenzo Lotto is the only painter who took that line from the Bible. 126 00:08:09,840 --> 00:08:12,240 Ego sum vitis vos palmites. 127 00:08:12,240 --> 00:08:14,920 I am the vine and you are the branches. 128 00:08:14,920 --> 00:08:17,200 And he turned it into this extraordinary image. 129 00:08:17,200 --> 00:08:19,080 What are all these image up there? 130 00:08:19,080 --> 00:08:22,760 You've got saints growing in the...the whirls 131 00:08:22,760 --> 00:08:26,040 and the curls of this vine as it reaches up. 132 00:08:26,040 --> 00:08:28,640 But although it's so striking as an image, 133 00:08:28,640 --> 00:08:31,080 you mustn't think of it as a single scene, cos it's not. 134 00:08:31,080 --> 00:08:32,920 It's actually like a comic book. 135 00:08:32,920 --> 00:08:38,440 And what it tells is this very bloody story of Saint Barbara, 136 00:08:38,440 --> 00:08:43,240 Santa Barbara, and she is the daughter of Dioscoro, 137 00:08:43,240 --> 00:08:44,920 this evil pagan. 138 00:08:44,920 --> 00:08:49,040 And he wants to marry her off, but he wants her to be a virgin, 139 00:08:49,040 --> 00:08:53,600 so he locks her into this tower. as he goes off on his travels. OK. 140 00:08:53,600 --> 00:08:57,080 What he doesn't know, is that when she's in the tower, 141 00:08:57,080 --> 00:09:00,240 Christ visits her, gives her a vision, 142 00:09:00,240 --> 00:09:02,160 she converts to Christianity. 143 00:09:02,160 --> 00:09:05,000 There she is kneeling, praying outside the tower, 144 00:09:05,000 --> 00:09:08,440 always accompanied by this lovely little white dog with her. 145 00:09:08,440 --> 00:09:09,840 Yeah, the dog is there. 146 00:09:09,840 --> 00:09:13,560 And now this is where the story gets bloody and turns nasty. 147 00:09:13,560 --> 00:09:17,000 Dioscoro, her father, has come back and there he is saying, 148 00:09:17,000 --> 00:09:19,400 "Now's the time for you to get married." 149 00:09:19,400 --> 00:09:21,440 And she points up to heaven and says, 150 00:09:21,440 --> 00:09:25,560 "No, I'm not going to marry any man, I have become a bride of Christ." 151 00:09:25,560 --> 00:09:28,160 Now he has her tortured. 152 00:09:28,160 --> 00:09:30,360 He got her. Look, he's carrying her... 153 00:09:30,360 --> 00:09:32,960 He's got her hair there. He's dragging her by her hair. 154 00:09:32,960 --> 00:09:34,280 Dragging her. 155 00:09:34,280 --> 00:09:37,920 And it gets really nasty. I mean, it's X-rated, isn't it? 156 00:09:37,920 --> 00:09:40,120 I mean, he doesn't pull his punches. 157 00:09:40,120 --> 00:09:44,680 So they apply burning brands to her breasts and her genitals. 158 00:09:44,680 --> 00:09:46,440 It's very physical, you know. 159 00:09:46,440 --> 00:09:49,080 Lotto's living in this time that's extremely violent. 160 00:09:49,080 --> 00:09:51,120 It really looks terrible, doesn't it? 161 00:09:51,120 --> 00:09:53,800 And throughout this sort of bloody story, 162 00:09:53,800 --> 00:09:56,600 sufferings are punctuated by little rays of hope. 163 00:09:56,600 --> 00:09:58,840 And now an angel comes down from heaven 164 00:09:58,840 --> 00:10:02,080 and gives her a white cloak to put around her body. 165 00:10:02,080 --> 00:10:04,960 And as soon as she puts the cloak around her body, her whole 166 00:10:04,960 --> 00:10:09,360 body is healed, and then her little dog is accompanying her all the way. 167 00:10:09,360 --> 00:10:13,440 The thing about this fresco cycle is the date. 168 00:10:13,440 --> 00:10:19,240 Hmm. It's 1524, this is a time of huge crisis in Wittenberg 169 00:10:19,240 --> 00:10:22,200 and the north, just over those mountains that he's painted. 170 00:10:22,200 --> 00:10:23,800 Luther is saying, 171 00:10:23,800 --> 00:10:27,360 "We must split the church, we must protest against Rome." 172 00:10:27,360 --> 00:10:32,320 And this fresco is the Suardi family's way of saying to 173 00:10:32,320 --> 00:10:35,800 everybody who lived around here, don't buy into the idea 174 00:10:35,800 --> 00:10:40,440 that this church is going to be split, stay true to the old faith. 175 00:10:40,440 --> 00:10:44,120 And also, I think just the picture has these kind of normal people. 176 00:10:44,120 --> 00:10:47,080 So the people kind of sympathise with that. Yeah, or... 177 00:10:47,080 --> 00:10:49,240 ..Can see themselves part of this thing. 178 00:10:49,240 --> 00:10:51,400 Absolutely, it's saying to the people, 179 00:10:51,400 --> 00:10:53,040 "This could happen in your world." 180 00:10:53,040 --> 00:10:54,280 Hmm, hmm. 181 00:10:54,280 --> 00:10:57,520 Lotto himself is actually represented in that fresco. 182 00:10:57,520 --> 00:11:00,560 Oh, OK. I think that's almost like his signature. 183 00:11:00,560 --> 00:11:02,880 Looks like that. And he's looking at us. 184 00:11:02,880 --> 00:11:05,280 And he's got this haunted expression. 185 00:11:05,280 --> 00:11:07,480 He's almost saying, "Got the message?" 186 00:11:07,480 --> 00:11:10,960 I think, and for such a small chapel and with such a big... 187 00:11:10,960 --> 00:11:13,600 I like that big message. I think that's what he's saying. 188 00:11:13,600 --> 00:11:15,080 "Have you got the message?" 189 00:11:15,080 --> 00:11:17,840 'He's an Italian artist with an Italian message, 190 00:11:17,840 --> 00:11:22,280 'but Lotto's style owes a lot to the art of northern Europe. 191 00:11:22,280 --> 00:11:23,840 'I love it!' 192 00:11:31,520 --> 00:11:35,120 Andrew's right. Lombardy often has more in common 193 00:11:35,120 --> 00:11:38,240 with northern Europe than Mediterranean south. 194 00:11:38,240 --> 00:11:41,800 Progressive and pragmatic, unlike the laidback southerners, 195 00:11:41,800 --> 00:11:44,120 the Lombards like to get things moving. 196 00:11:44,120 --> 00:11:48,520 And you don't have to look far for examples from every era. 197 00:11:48,520 --> 00:11:51,600 My favourite is located on the river Adda, 198 00:11:51,600 --> 00:11:54,800 one of the greatest arteries of Lombardy. 199 00:11:54,800 --> 00:11:56,360 It may not be a fresco, 200 00:11:56,360 --> 00:11:59,280 but I'm pretty sure Andrew will appreciate it. 201 00:11:59,280 --> 00:12:02,480 Andrew this is it, this is the bridge, this is it, we are here! 202 00:12:05,360 --> 00:12:08,000 Oh, look at the drop! It's unbelievable. 203 00:12:08,000 --> 00:12:10,040 Turn, turn right here. 204 00:12:10,040 --> 00:12:14,280 Here you've got a lot of industry and, and, and exchange. 205 00:12:14,280 --> 00:12:18,200 So this bridge was very, very important for the communication. 206 00:12:18,200 --> 00:12:20,520 It is amazing. 207 00:12:20,520 --> 00:12:24,400 Built in 1889, the San Michele bridge was much admired 208 00:12:24,400 --> 00:12:29,360 across Europe for its elegant design and cutting edge technology. 209 00:12:29,360 --> 00:12:33,600 It's simple, beautiful, and most importantly functional. 210 00:12:37,040 --> 00:12:40,520 Wow. It's enormous, isn't it? 211 00:12:42,040 --> 00:12:46,200 It looks so tiny from the top, now it is just so big. 212 00:12:46,200 --> 00:12:49,120 What I like is, when you see it in the river, 213 00:12:49,120 --> 00:12:53,320 it's like an eye staring into the 20th century. 214 00:12:53,320 --> 00:12:56,360 And this is what Lombardy is all about, you know, 215 00:12:56,360 --> 00:12:58,400 looking towards the future. 216 00:12:58,400 --> 00:13:01,240 They built this thing in two years. Two years?! 217 00:13:01,240 --> 00:13:03,080 In two years they built this thing. 218 00:13:03,080 --> 00:13:05,480 Their feet were definitely in Europe. 219 00:13:05,480 --> 00:13:09,200 These guys were there with everybody else with the Industrial Revolution 220 00:13:09,200 --> 00:13:12,400 and building and going forwards. 221 00:13:12,400 --> 00:13:15,240 They're kind of the dreamers, but they're also engineers. 222 00:13:15,240 --> 00:13:16,680 Bellisimo. 223 00:13:21,760 --> 00:13:24,600 Well, I think we've had enough wandering around. 224 00:13:24,600 --> 00:13:26,640 It's time to go into the beating heart, 225 00:13:26,640 --> 00:13:29,200 the capital of this region, Milan. 226 00:13:29,200 --> 00:13:31,520 Even the road that takes you there, the A8, 227 00:13:31,520 --> 00:13:35,800 expresses Lombardy's forward looking spirit. 228 00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:39,400 They say it's the first motorway in the history of roads. 229 00:13:39,400 --> 00:13:42,240 That's right, not the German, not the English, 230 00:13:42,240 --> 00:13:44,880 but the Italians built the first. 231 00:13:44,880 --> 00:13:46,800 North Italians. 232 00:13:46,800 --> 00:13:50,560 This was the first road, straight in a very Roman way 233 00:13:50,560 --> 00:13:54,840 and went through all these big fat towns and took you to Milan. 234 00:13:54,840 --> 00:13:58,880 This road is also very important at a symbolic level, 235 00:13:58,880 --> 00:14:02,040 for what a northern Italy wanted to represent 236 00:14:02,040 --> 00:14:03,960 in the earlier 20th century. 237 00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:06,640 Because throughout the 18th and 19th century, 238 00:14:06,640 --> 00:14:09,760 Italy was a byword for a country living in the past, 239 00:14:09,760 --> 00:14:11,400 going really nowhere. 240 00:14:12,520 --> 00:14:15,560 And then suddenly this road, this road said no, no, no, 241 00:14:15,560 --> 00:14:19,640 we're going somewhere and where are we going, we're going to the future. 242 00:14:24,120 --> 00:14:29,160 Rome may be the capital, but Milan is the real power behind Italy. 243 00:14:29,160 --> 00:14:33,480 Over 2,000 years old, it occupies a key position along 244 00:14:33,480 --> 00:14:38,000 the ancient trade route between Rome and northern Europe. 245 00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:39,560 Dynamic and industrious, 246 00:14:39,560 --> 00:14:43,520 it remains the most important commercial centre in the country. 247 00:14:45,720 --> 00:14:48,200 For me, there's only one place to start our exploration 248 00:14:48,200 --> 00:14:51,520 of the city, the grand Gothic Cathedral. 249 00:14:51,520 --> 00:14:55,160 Dominating the old city centre, it's the heart and soul of Milan. 250 00:14:55,160 --> 00:14:58,840 All roads seem to start and end here. 251 00:14:58,840 --> 00:15:03,520 Construction started in 1386 and it's one of the earliest examples 252 00:15:03,520 --> 00:15:07,440 of the great Milanese gift for design and engineering. 253 00:15:09,160 --> 00:15:12,080 Do you know, Giorgio, I think that's the first time... Yeah. 254 00:15:12,080 --> 00:15:15,680 ..I have ever seen the front of Milan Cathedral 255 00:15:15,680 --> 00:15:18,440 without huge amounts of scaffolding on it. 256 00:15:18,440 --> 00:15:21,520 It's the first time I've seen it so white. Yeah. 257 00:15:21,520 --> 00:15:24,000 Even in the picture on the panettone, the one you buy 258 00:15:24,000 --> 00:15:27,080 at Christmas, there's a picture of it and it's much greyer than that. 259 00:15:27,080 --> 00:15:29,160 It's wonderful this cathedral front. 260 00:15:29,160 --> 00:15:33,400 Ruskin loved it, he talked about its frost, crystalline beauty. 261 00:15:33,400 --> 00:15:35,480 He thought it was almost like a snowflake 262 00:15:35,480 --> 00:15:37,200 that has come down to Earth. Yes. 263 00:15:37,200 --> 00:15:40,040 It's got that sort of structure of a snow flake. It's beautiful. 264 00:15:40,040 --> 00:15:41,720 It is impressive, isn't it? 265 00:15:41,720 --> 00:15:44,120 Shall we go inside? Let's go and have a look. 266 00:15:52,440 --> 00:15:54,480 Built over six centuries, 267 00:15:54,480 --> 00:15:57,480 the cathedral is one of the largest in all of Europe. 268 00:15:58,720 --> 00:16:00,400 It's dedicated to the Madonna 269 00:16:00,400 --> 00:16:04,840 and is still one of the great pilgrimage sights in all of Italy. 270 00:16:07,120 --> 00:16:11,960 I've visited many times, and always find something new to marvel at. 271 00:16:15,840 --> 00:16:19,480 'This time we're going to explore a very different part of the building.' 272 00:16:19,480 --> 00:16:21,560 I love this, what a treat. 273 00:16:21,560 --> 00:16:24,600 'We're on our way to the roof of the Duomo, 274 00:16:24,600 --> 00:16:27,440 'the most ingenious part of its design.' 275 00:16:27,440 --> 00:16:30,840 Oh, yes. How beautiful is that?! 276 00:16:30,840 --> 00:16:32,880 I think we've arrived. 277 00:16:32,880 --> 00:16:36,520 'We've arranged to meet one of the engineers currently restoring the roof.' 278 00:16:36,520 --> 00:16:37,880 Hello. 279 00:16:48,320 --> 00:16:51,560 'Benigno Morlin works for the Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo, 280 00:16:51,560 --> 00:16:54,440 'the 600-year-old workshop that built the cathedral, 281 00:16:54,440 --> 00:16:56,840 'and is still dedicated to its restoration.' 282 00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:09,840 These are pieces they've remade. 283 00:17:15,400 --> 00:17:16,560 Oh, beautiful. 284 00:17:19,440 --> 00:17:21,440 OK so, they own, 285 00:17:21,440 --> 00:17:26,520 they own the quarry where you actually get this stone from. 286 00:17:26,520 --> 00:17:30,160 It is an historic quarry. It's an historic... It's the same. 287 00:17:30,160 --> 00:17:32,840 It's the same quarry... It's the same quarry. 288 00:17:32,840 --> 00:17:34,640 ..They got the stone from in the first place. 289 00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:37,480 'It was modelled on the Gothic cathedrals of northern Europe. 290 00:17:37,480 --> 00:17:40,120 'But the Lombard builders couldn't resist adding a few 291 00:17:40,120 --> 00:17:41,760 'innovations of their own. 292 00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:45,800 'And the construction of its roof was completely revolutionary.' 293 00:18:10,400 --> 00:18:12,480 'Talking to Signore Morlin made us 294 00:18:12,480 --> 00:18:15,480 'want to see more of the Duomo's crowning glory. 295 00:18:15,480 --> 00:18:18,400 'I love how what might have been a purely functional feature 296 00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:20,760 'has been made a thing of beauty. 297 00:18:20,760 --> 00:18:23,800 'It's as if there's a whole other cathedral here up in the clouds. 298 00:18:23,800 --> 00:18:26,560 'And it's open to the public too.' 299 00:18:26,560 --> 00:18:29,880 It's a phenomenon, this building. It is incredible. 300 00:18:29,880 --> 00:18:33,360 I tell you, it's the only great Gothic cathedral that seems 301 00:18:33,360 --> 00:18:36,400 almost designed for you to be able to enjoy 302 00:18:36,400 --> 00:18:39,640 and take pleasure in the structure of its making. 303 00:18:39,640 --> 00:18:43,400 Down here, you see, you've got the sort of series of walkways, 304 00:18:43,400 --> 00:18:47,600 pathways, it was always made to be walked on, enjoyed. Right. 305 00:18:47,600 --> 00:18:51,040 So all the different levels, you can see the structure, and as a 306 00:18:51,040 --> 00:18:53,960 result of that, you know they've exercised their ingenuity, 307 00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:57,200 whereas in other Gothic cathedrals, the spires and the minarets 308 00:18:57,200 --> 00:18:59,120 just rise up to the sky pointing to God. 309 00:18:59,120 --> 00:19:01,560 Here they've become plinths for outdoor sculptures. 310 00:19:01,560 --> 00:19:04,200 You could say this is the first outdoor sculpture park. 311 00:19:04,200 --> 00:19:07,280 You know what it reminds me of, it reminds me of this, you know when 312 00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:10,920 you wet the sand and you make these things and they just sort of 313 00:19:10,920 --> 00:19:15,360 grow underneath your hands. It has the same kind of fragility to that. 314 00:19:15,360 --> 00:19:19,240 That's what's so beautiful about the Gothic, I think. 315 00:19:19,240 --> 00:19:22,320 This cathedral is actually the engine room of what's made 316 00:19:22,320 --> 00:19:27,160 Milan a great temple of modern technology and design, 317 00:19:27,160 --> 00:19:31,120 because in the Gothic period, the mathematicians, the engineers, 318 00:19:31,120 --> 00:19:32,760 the architects, the designers, 319 00:19:32,760 --> 00:19:36,560 they were brought into being by the needs of this cathedral. 320 00:19:36,560 --> 00:19:38,120 Solving problems. 321 00:19:38,120 --> 00:19:39,520 So yes, it's kind of a machine 322 00:19:39,520 --> 00:19:44,280 that's constantly attracting to Milan, technological innovators. 323 00:19:44,280 --> 00:19:47,560 'Back in the day, every great intellectual who came to 324 00:19:47,560 --> 00:19:51,360 'Milan seems to have been involved with the cathedral. 325 00:19:51,360 --> 00:19:55,200 'And in the Duomo's archives, there's evidence of one particular 326 00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:57,840 'genius and his small contribution.' 327 00:20:03,120 --> 00:20:05,560 Roberto. Buongiorno. 328 00:20:31,560 --> 00:20:36,800 A list of payment for everybody who collaborated to build the Duomo. 329 00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:39,200 A lot of people seem to have collaborated. 330 00:20:52,080 --> 00:20:53,520 Excusi, Roberto. Si. 331 00:20:53,520 --> 00:20:57,240 This is, you've picked this one out for us and it's actually 332 00:20:57,240 --> 00:21:02,480 evidence that Leonardus Florentinus, so Leonardo from Florence... Si. 333 00:21:02,480 --> 00:21:04,440 ..ie, Leonardo Da Vinci 334 00:21:04,440 --> 00:21:08,240 had actually done some work for the cathedral. How wonderful. 335 00:21:16,640 --> 00:21:20,080 The tiburio is the top... The cupola. That's right. 336 00:21:31,720 --> 00:21:35,960 What a wonderful little detail, cos that's far less than he would be 337 00:21:35,960 --> 00:21:39,400 paid for the major commissions. And yet, a wooden model for a cupola is 338 00:21:39,400 --> 00:21:42,440 a very complicated thing to make, so that suggests to me that he really 339 00:21:42,440 --> 00:21:45,680 wanted to work on the cathedral, he wanted to leave a mark on Milano. 340 00:21:45,680 --> 00:21:47,520 He understood something. Yeah. 341 00:21:47,520 --> 00:21:51,320 Well, of course, he didn't, in the end, design the cupola. Yeah. 342 00:21:51,320 --> 00:21:55,760 The model never got used. No. It's been lost. Grazie, Roberto. 343 00:21:55,760 --> 00:21:58,280 It's a pleasure. 344 00:21:58,280 --> 00:22:00,160 Arrivederci. Arrivederci. 345 00:22:01,960 --> 00:22:05,000 'It's very revealing that Leonardo sold himself to 346 00:22:05,000 --> 00:22:09,840 'the court of Milan as an engineer rather than an artist. 347 00:22:09,840 --> 00:22:14,760 'He worked for the great Duke Ludovico Sforza for nearly 20 years. 348 00:22:14,760 --> 00:22:18,040 'Designing bridges, boats, weapons or war. 349 00:22:19,840 --> 00:22:23,040 'Design and engineering were the priorities in Milan. 350 00:22:23,040 --> 00:22:26,040 'They're what its success is built on.' 351 00:22:30,360 --> 00:22:34,080 'That philosophy had a radical impact on the shape of the city. 352 00:22:34,080 --> 00:22:36,440 'Just a short walk from the Duomo, you can visit 353 00:22:36,440 --> 00:22:40,040 'one of the most outstanding examples of technical imagination. 354 00:22:42,360 --> 00:22:45,560 'La Scala is amongst the most prestigious opera houses 355 00:22:45,560 --> 00:22:49,880 'in the world, and we've been allowed to take a look inside.' 356 00:22:49,880 --> 00:22:52,200 I've never been here before. 357 00:22:52,200 --> 00:22:54,120 This, look at this! 358 00:22:56,960 --> 00:23:00,240 I think it's the world's first horseshoe shaped theatre. 359 00:23:00,240 --> 00:23:03,800 That's right. And it's all designed with sound on their mind. 360 00:23:03,800 --> 00:23:05,920 So it's incredible. 361 00:23:05,920 --> 00:23:09,560 You know, you see the shape of each thing and how it's made as well. 362 00:23:09,560 --> 00:23:12,680 You know, to not destroy the echo. The boxes? Yeah, the boxes. 363 00:23:12,680 --> 00:23:15,760 I'd love to come and actually... You sing a little bit, can you sing? 364 00:23:15,760 --> 00:23:17,560 THEY SING A NOTE 365 00:23:17,560 --> 00:23:20,960 No. Oh. Oh, no, I can't. 366 00:23:20,960 --> 00:23:24,720 It is absolutely outstanding to be here. 367 00:23:28,080 --> 00:23:31,720 But we didn't just come here to admire the theatre, 368 00:23:31,720 --> 00:23:36,640 I'm taking Andrew to Il Marchesini, a restaurant in the same building. 369 00:23:36,640 --> 00:23:40,440 It's owned by the most celebrated Italian chef in the world, 370 00:23:40,440 --> 00:23:42,880 Gualtiero Marchesi. 371 00:23:42,880 --> 00:23:46,040 With three Michelin stars, he globalised Italian food 372 00:23:46,040 --> 00:23:49,200 and made it the success it is today. 373 00:23:49,200 --> 00:23:52,200 Gualtiero is waiting for us, so come in and see. 374 00:23:52,200 --> 00:23:53,480 It's like a theatre curtain. 375 00:23:53,480 --> 00:23:56,360 That's what it is, we are in the theatre restaurant. 376 00:24:15,320 --> 00:24:19,360 Gualtiero makes this dish, one of his creations. 377 00:24:19,360 --> 00:24:24,760 And to me, it's the dish that really, really represents Milan 378 00:24:24,760 --> 00:24:27,480 more than anything else that I have seen before. 379 00:24:27,480 --> 00:24:29,200 What's this dish called? 380 00:24:29,200 --> 00:24:32,160 Not just Milan! Italy. 381 00:24:32,160 --> 00:24:34,680 He says all Italy. THEY LAUGH 382 00:24:41,160 --> 00:24:44,040 With gold? Yeah, with gold. Yeah, with gold, saffron and... 383 00:24:46,480 --> 00:24:48,680 We are rich. We're rich, I like it. Yeah. 384 00:24:55,400 --> 00:24:59,120 One of the things that matter is to 385 00:24:59,120 --> 00:25:01,280 really concentrate on the flavour. 386 00:25:01,280 --> 00:25:03,560 And very neat and clear flavoured. 387 00:25:03,560 --> 00:25:07,000 So even if there is a lot of creation in what he does, 388 00:25:07,000 --> 00:25:10,000 it is always with a great respect for the flavours. 389 00:25:10,000 --> 00:25:14,800 Hmm. So what is the essential flavour in this risotto? 390 00:25:14,800 --> 00:25:16,320 The saffron. The saffron? 391 00:25:16,320 --> 00:25:17,720 Definitely, yeah. 392 00:25:24,440 --> 00:25:25,920 HE SPEAKS ITALIAN 393 00:25:28,960 --> 00:25:31,960 So it's turning the procedure upside down. OK. 394 00:25:34,200 --> 00:25:36,040 Or the risotto. 395 00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:40,080 They also put a lot of cheese. 396 00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:42,520 To give the acidity. 397 00:25:42,520 --> 00:25:44,520 Then you taste only the cheese. 398 00:25:54,720 --> 00:25:55,640 Taste it. 399 00:25:58,960 --> 00:26:01,240 Mmm, wow. Acidity. 400 00:26:01,240 --> 00:26:03,440 That's like erm... Very high acid. 401 00:26:03,440 --> 00:26:06,320 ..A beautiful reduction of wine... Wine with onions. ..With butter. 402 00:26:18,320 --> 00:26:19,960 Beautiful thing! 403 00:26:19,960 --> 00:26:22,760 When he said gold, I thought he meant he was actually going to 404 00:26:22,760 --> 00:26:25,120 put some gold leaf in it. Hold on a minute. 405 00:26:25,120 --> 00:26:26,680 But he means, he means gold as in... 406 00:26:26,680 --> 00:26:28,880 No, no, no, no, no, there is some gold coming. 407 00:26:28,880 --> 00:26:31,280 ..Metaphorical? No, no, no, no, wait a minute. 408 00:26:50,800 --> 00:26:53,840 That's amazing. Go on, you've got to taste it. 409 00:26:53,840 --> 00:26:55,200 I have to taste it. 410 00:27:01,160 --> 00:27:03,960 Oh, what an idea. I'm just going to eat loads of gold. 411 00:27:08,040 --> 00:27:09,520 HE MOANS HAPPILY 412 00:27:18,600 --> 00:27:21,520 And the shape of the rice. Can you feel the rice? 413 00:27:21,520 --> 00:27:24,360 Yeah, you can get the shape of each of the rice in your mouth, 414 00:27:24,360 --> 00:27:26,480 which makes a difference how you flavour it. 415 00:27:26,480 --> 00:27:30,520 Innovation doesn't mean that you have to complicate things 416 00:27:30,520 --> 00:27:32,640 or layer it so much. 417 00:27:32,640 --> 00:27:36,720 And this is a clear example of somebody expressing himself... 418 00:27:36,720 --> 00:27:39,800 Simplicity. ..Without complicating things. 419 00:27:39,800 --> 00:27:43,440 So express yourself in simplicity, this is so important. 420 00:27:47,920 --> 00:27:49,480 Grazie. 421 00:27:49,480 --> 00:27:51,120 Arrivederci. 422 00:27:51,120 --> 00:27:52,560 I will have some more gold. 423 00:27:52,560 --> 00:27:53,960 HE LAUGHS 424 00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:00,560 'After sampling Marchesi's gold, 425 00:28:00,560 --> 00:28:03,640 'what better way to walk off the richness 426 00:28:03,640 --> 00:28:07,160 'than with a passeggiata through Milan's finest galleria. 427 00:28:07,160 --> 00:28:09,360 'Sophisticated and opulent, 428 00:28:09,360 --> 00:28:14,680 'the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is the oldest shopping mall in Italy. 429 00:28:14,680 --> 00:28:18,960 'Strolling through this luxurious arcade, it's obvious why Milan 430 00:28:18,960 --> 00:28:21,880 'is one of the fashion capitals of the world.' 431 00:28:21,880 --> 00:28:23,400 Look how elegant they are. 432 00:28:23,400 --> 00:28:26,880 Even the traffic wardens, look at them. Fantastic. 433 00:28:26,880 --> 00:28:29,840 Those are the cops. Those are the traffic warden, not the cops. 434 00:28:29,840 --> 00:28:32,960 Only in Italy. Only in Milan, you know. 435 00:28:39,480 --> 00:28:42,720 It's a bit of a temple of capitalism really, as you can see. 436 00:28:42,720 --> 00:28:44,880 Well, I think it's a cathedral of capitalism. 437 00:28:44,880 --> 00:28:47,160 I think what's amazingly daring about it 438 00:28:47,160 --> 00:28:49,360 is that the Duomo is literally there. 439 00:28:49,360 --> 00:28:50,600 And the Scala is there. 440 00:28:50,600 --> 00:28:53,440 And the Scala is there, so you got the temple of art, 441 00:28:53,440 --> 00:28:54,920 the temple of religion there 442 00:28:54,920 --> 00:28:57,080 and you've got the temple of money here. 443 00:28:57,080 --> 00:28:59,240 Because, yeah, this is what it's all about. 444 00:28:59,240 --> 00:29:01,800 It is and it's so grand! 445 00:29:01,800 --> 00:29:05,880 1861, so it's, it's just a few years after 446 00:29:05,880 --> 00:29:08,880 the Great Exhibition in London, the building of the Crystal Palace. 447 00:29:08,880 --> 00:29:11,560 Because it does look like that, doesn't it? It's the same. 448 00:29:11,560 --> 00:29:13,360 A Victorian sort of building. 449 00:29:13,360 --> 00:29:16,040 And it's a great statement from a city to, 450 00:29:16,040 --> 00:29:19,720 right in the middle of that, to really show their power. 451 00:29:19,720 --> 00:29:21,880 And you know, the commercial. 452 00:29:21,880 --> 00:29:25,440 You know, they are commercial animals those guys. 453 00:29:25,440 --> 00:29:28,640 I think it's the only place where you can really see 454 00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:31,480 and feel that sort of huge pride and self confidence, 455 00:29:31,480 --> 00:29:34,280 you know, across Italy in the Industrial Revolution. Yes. 456 00:29:34,280 --> 00:29:35,920 You only really feel that here. 457 00:29:35,920 --> 00:29:38,560 Yeah. There is one thing that I want to show you. Yeah. 458 00:29:38,560 --> 00:29:41,280 And whenever you come to this place, 459 00:29:41,280 --> 00:29:44,120 there is this superstitious thing, and if you see any Milanese 460 00:29:44,120 --> 00:29:48,120 walking through, they will come along and what they will do is 461 00:29:48,120 --> 00:29:53,200 stand on the balls of the toro. It's called scica i ball al toro. 462 00:29:53,200 --> 00:29:55,840 And you go like that. Step on the balls of the bull? 463 00:29:55,840 --> 00:29:57,800 And you turn around and that's it. 464 00:29:57,800 --> 00:30:00,080 Always in Italy there has to be a superstitious... 465 00:30:00,080 --> 00:30:02,160 OK, is that 'cos you need balls 466 00:30:02,160 --> 00:30:04,760 if you're going to pay the prices for some of these clothes? 467 00:30:04,760 --> 00:30:05,800 THEY LAUGH 468 00:30:08,440 --> 00:30:11,040 'One of the things I love about the city is how open it is 469 00:30:11,040 --> 00:30:13,320 'to new ideas and innovations. 470 00:30:13,320 --> 00:30:18,760 'Although it cherishes its history, Milan isn't stuck in the past. 471 00:30:18,760 --> 00:30:22,040 'Progressive, forward-thinking, it fostered one of the most 472 00:30:22,040 --> 00:30:26,080 'revolutionary art movements of the early 20th century, Futurism. 473 00:30:27,600 --> 00:30:29,440 'It was dreamed up in 1909 474 00:30:29,440 --> 00:30:32,600 'by an eccentric poet and orator called Marinetti.' 475 00:30:33,840 --> 00:30:37,840 Fillippo Tomasso Marinetti, in my opinion, wasn't a very nice man. 476 00:30:37,840 --> 00:30:40,920 A lot of things wrong with him, he was a Fascist. Misogynist. 477 00:30:40,920 --> 00:30:45,200 He glorified war, but he did have a vision. 478 00:30:45,200 --> 00:30:48,640 And I think he's a very interesting character because what he did was, 479 00:30:48,640 --> 00:30:53,200 he set out to drag Italy into the 20th century, 480 00:30:53,200 --> 00:30:55,160 into the modern world. 481 00:30:55,160 --> 00:31:00,920 The Futurist Manifesto, it's a guide to enjoying modern life. 482 00:31:00,920 --> 00:31:04,520 Everything that an Italian perhaps at the beginning of the 20th century 483 00:31:04,520 --> 00:31:08,720 might find disconcerting, that rapid movement of a tram, 484 00:31:08,720 --> 00:31:13,320 a crowded street, the sudden sense that everything's moving, 485 00:31:13,320 --> 00:31:14,840 it's confusing. 486 00:31:14,840 --> 00:31:17,880 And, Andrew, what was amazing is that when you travel the world 487 00:31:17,880 --> 00:31:20,360 and when I went to New York and I went to the MOMA, 488 00:31:20,360 --> 00:31:24,400 I was so shocked to see there is a room only of Futuristic painting. 489 00:31:24,400 --> 00:31:27,960 In Italian museums, very rarely you find a whole room of Futurism. 490 00:31:27,960 --> 00:31:29,320 Maybe you find one of these. 491 00:31:29,320 --> 00:31:32,280 The Italians have kind of refused them this. 492 00:31:32,280 --> 00:31:35,640 I think that's part of the later story, because Futurism turned dark, 493 00:31:35,640 --> 00:31:39,400 became associated with Fascism, it got a bad name in Italy. 494 00:31:39,400 --> 00:31:43,280 But here in Milan, it's the one exception. A home city of Futurism. 495 00:31:43,280 --> 00:31:46,720 They did actually create and build a great collection, 496 00:31:46,720 --> 00:31:49,160 which we're going to see and we're... Yeah. 497 00:31:49,160 --> 00:31:50,800 And I think we're just about there. 498 00:31:50,800 --> 00:31:52,920 Yeah, we are in Duomo, we have to get out now. 499 00:31:52,920 --> 00:31:55,880 Andiamo, let's go and look at some electric art. 500 00:32:02,600 --> 00:32:04,680 'We're visiting the Novecento Museum, 501 00:32:04,680 --> 00:32:08,360 'home to the best collection of Futurist art in Italy.' 502 00:32:08,360 --> 00:32:11,520 I really like this. It's like a little capsule of Futurism, 503 00:32:11,520 --> 00:32:14,000 all condensed into just a couple of galleries. 504 00:32:14,000 --> 00:32:17,720 Here they begin, they're in Paris, they're in the cafes, 505 00:32:17,720 --> 00:32:20,760 they're reading the papers, they're doing what Picasso had done, 506 00:32:20,760 --> 00:32:23,800 they're trying to think, "What would it be like to be a modern artist?" 507 00:32:23,800 --> 00:32:28,000 And I think, suddenly, on this other wall, bang, you've got the answer. 508 00:32:28,000 --> 00:32:32,720 Hmm. They turn, this is not a very well-known Futurist, Achille Funi. 509 00:32:32,720 --> 00:32:36,320 But he is turning to Milan, he's not in Paris, 510 00:32:36,320 --> 00:32:40,360 he's painting Milan, he's painting a man getting off a tram. 511 00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:43,200 That's what it looks like for real, look at that. 512 00:32:43,200 --> 00:32:45,440 It's like an explosion, isn't it? 513 00:32:45,440 --> 00:32:48,560 I think what he's trying to, he's trying to capture that, 514 00:32:48,560 --> 00:32:50,320 you know when we were on the tram, 515 00:32:50,320 --> 00:32:52,160 that sense that the world is not still. 516 00:32:52,160 --> 00:32:55,440 That there's the sound, you can almost hear the shriek of the tram. 517 00:32:55,440 --> 00:32:58,680 They do take their cue, to a certain degree, from Paris. 518 00:32:58,680 --> 00:33:00,800 Because Paris is the great centre of modern art, 519 00:33:00,800 --> 00:33:02,720 but they're changing all the time. 520 00:33:02,720 --> 00:33:06,160 Think of someone like Toulouse Lautrec painting the can-can girls. 521 00:33:06,160 --> 00:33:08,480 Well, this is an Italian artist, Gino Severini 522 00:33:08,480 --> 00:33:11,240 and this is what he makes of the can-can. 523 00:33:11,240 --> 00:33:14,880 This is very much an artist who's read Marinetti's Futurist Manifesto. 524 00:33:14,880 --> 00:33:18,680 Hmm. And he's interested in this idea that we are inhabitants 525 00:33:18,680 --> 00:33:21,920 of the machine age, and when he looks at the chorus line, 526 00:33:21,920 --> 00:33:24,960 it's as if he sees a group of people who've turned themselves 527 00:33:24,960 --> 00:33:28,920 into a kind of animated piston engine. You know, legs kicking. 528 00:33:28,920 --> 00:33:30,520 Yeah, 12 pistons going up. 529 00:33:30,520 --> 00:33:33,560 It's almost like people becoming like the inside of a motor car. 530 00:33:33,560 --> 00:33:36,960 They were setting themselves quite a difficult task, 531 00:33:36,960 --> 00:33:42,920 which is to capture in a still frame, a sense of movement. 532 00:33:42,920 --> 00:33:46,040 This picture, once you read the title, you can see the subject. 533 00:33:46,040 --> 00:33:47,680 Girl Running On A Balcony. 534 00:33:47,680 --> 00:33:52,680 It is there, the girls running on a balcony, literally. 535 00:33:52,680 --> 00:33:56,920 Like if it was different frames of a moving image. Yeah. 536 00:33:56,920 --> 00:34:01,080 The further you get, the more you can actually see the image moving. 537 00:34:01,080 --> 00:34:04,640 It takes really shape. It is brilliant. 538 00:34:04,640 --> 00:34:07,480 One of the things I like about Futurism is, 539 00:34:07,480 --> 00:34:11,360 that they're trying to break up the language of the past. 540 00:34:11,360 --> 00:34:16,240 But the real star of the movement was a man called Umberto Boccioni. 541 00:34:16,240 --> 00:34:18,360 Look at this. 542 00:34:18,360 --> 00:34:22,920 This is, this is Boccioni's sort of masterpiece in sculpture. 543 00:34:22,920 --> 00:34:29,040 And it's called Unique Forms Of Continuity In Space. 544 00:34:29,040 --> 00:34:31,040 It was based, 545 00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:34,520 how appropriate for one of the masterpieces of Milan, 546 00:34:34,520 --> 00:34:36,760 with its two great football teams, 547 00:34:36,760 --> 00:34:40,200 is based on the image of a football player. 548 00:34:40,200 --> 00:34:42,840 What do you think of it, do you like it? 549 00:34:42,840 --> 00:34:44,080 I really, really like it. 550 00:34:44,080 --> 00:34:46,680 It reminds me more than a footballer, 551 00:34:46,680 --> 00:34:48,760 he actually looks like one of those 552 00:34:48,760 --> 00:34:53,680 little robo transformers that my children used to have. 553 00:34:53,680 --> 00:34:56,760 Yeah, well, I don't think it's a coincidence. 554 00:34:56,760 --> 00:35:01,680 It's the Futurist man striding into what he thought was the future. 555 00:35:06,200 --> 00:35:09,120 'The Futurists didn't just want to revolutionise art, 556 00:35:09,120 --> 00:35:12,520 'they wanted to transform how Italians ate as well. 557 00:35:12,520 --> 00:35:15,160 'Marinetti even wanted pasta banned. 558 00:35:15,160 --> 00:35:18,520 'And in 1930 he compiled a radical cookbook. 559 00:35:20,040 --> 00:35:23,360 'I can't resist trying out a couple of recipes on Andrew.' 560 00:35:23,360 --> 00:35:24,680 What is that? 561 00:35:24,680 --> 00:35:27,160 Look, here you got a sandwich that instead of having 562 00:35:27,160 --> 00:35:29,920 the bread on the outside, you have the salami on the outside 563 00:35:29,920 --> 00:35:31,480 and the bread is in the inside. 564 00:35:31,480 --> 00:35:34,040 You have got anchovies and you got green apple. 565 00:35:34,040 --> 00:35:36,680 Fantastic, it looks brilliant, doesn't it? 566 00:35:36,680 --> 00:35:40,760 So it's really like a very Italian version of what they, 567 00:35:40,760 --> 00:35:44,600 you know, what they thought the food of the future would be. 568 00:35:44,600 --> 00:35:46,960 Do you expect me to like this? 569 00:35:46,960 --> 00:35:49,040 Oh, I expect you to taste it! 570 00:35:49,040 --> 00:35:51,520 You know, you know, I made an effort to make it 571 00:35:51,520 --> 00:35:54,680 so you're going to have to taste it at least. 572 00:35:54,680 --> 00:35:56,160 OK. OK. 573 00:36:03,720 --> 00:36:06,680 Is it delicious or what? What is that?! 574 00:36:06,680 --> 00:36:08,160 ANDREW LAUGHS 575 00:36:08,160 --> 00:36:10,200 I'm trying to be polite, Giorgio. 576 00:36:10,200 --> 00:36:11,800 No. 577 00:36:11,800 --> 00:36:15,080 In deference to Fillippo Tomasso, but... 578 00:36:15,080 --> 00:36:19,120 No, there is some...it's a quite an interesting taste, isn't it? 579 00:36:19,120 --> 00:36:20,760 Hmm. 580 00:36:20,760 --> 00:36:24,360 It's sort of a little bit disgusting when you bite into it because 581 00:36:24,360 --> 00:36:27,880 you're chewing through vast amounts of thick, fatty salami. 582 00:36:27,880 --> 00:36:29,880 Taste the other one. It's, do you...? 583 00:36:29,880 --> 00:36:33,160 It's the other one. 584 00:36:33,160 --> 00:36:35,480 So what...the other one's a strong taste. OK. 585 00:36:35,480 --> 00:36:37,600 And it has got, shall I tell you what's inside? 586 00:36:37,600 --> 00:36:39,840 No, let me guess. OK, bite, go. 587 00:36:39,840 --> 00:36:43,080 Sandwich tasting. This is... 588 00:36:47,440 --> 00:36:49,000 Oh. 589 00:36:49,000 --> 00:36:52,040 THEY LAUGH 590 00:36:52,040 --> 00:36:55,280 That is amazing. That's amazing. 591 00:36:55,280 --> 00:36:57,720 I have to say, actually, I like this one. 592 00:36:57,720 --> 00:36:59,360 It's got a banana in it. I know. 593 00:36:59,360 --> 00:37:02,000 And what you have to think about is, you know, 594 00:37:02,000 --> 00:37:03,960 this is 100 years ago. 595 00:37:03,960 --> 00:37:07,160 We're talking about certain ingredients that were so far ahead. 596 00:37:07,160 --> 00:37:11,200 These guys were so far out, much more than Heston Blumenthal is 597 00:37:11,200 --> 00:37:13,560 with his snail porridge at the moment. 598 00:37:13,560 --> 00:37:16,640 Banana. Man, they see banana once a year. 599 00:37:16,640 --> 00:37:20,520 And it's got anchovies, banana, and another very important thing. 600 00:37:20,520 --> 00:37:23,200 Mustard, like an English mustard. 601 00:37:23,200 --> 00:37:26,320 So they look again to the outside world, 602 00:37:26,320 --> 00:37:29,640 they look to the English, they look to another world, 603 00:37:29,640 --> 00:37:32,480 a world more industrialised than they one that they had. 604 00:37:32,480 --> 00:37:35,880 It's seriously weird. Seriously good as well, I think. 605 00:37:35,880 --> 00:37:38,160 The perfect breakfast sandwich, isn't it? 606 00:37:38,160 --> 00:37:41,360 It'll be really an energetic food, it's food on the go 607 00:37:41,360 --> 00:37:43,840 and it's supposed to inspire you, and make you feel 608 00:37:43,840 --> 00:37:46,400 like you are a modern man, that's what it's all about. 609 00:37:46,400 --> 00:37:49,320 Bizarrely, if you told me what you were going to put in there, 610 00:37:49,320 --> 00:37:53,000 I wouldn't have even touched it. Right. But it's fantastic. 611 00:37:53,000 --> 00:37:55,960 How many recipes in the Futurist Cookbook did you look at? 612 00:37:55,960 --> 00:37:57,200 I read them all. 613 00:37:57,200 --> 00:37:59,440 And how many did you think actually could be 614 00:37:59,440 --> 00:38:01,080 turned into food you could eat? 615 00:38:04,200 --> 00:38:06,760 Eh, two. THEY LAUGH 616 00:38:06,760 --> 00:38:09,640 So we're eating the only two recipes you thought... Yeah. 617 00:38:09,640 --> 00:38:13,080 ..And I thought one of them was disgusting anyway, so. 618 00:38:13,080 --> 00:38:14,400 Cheers, man. 619 00:38:14,400 --> 00:38:17,040 I think the only way to toast a banana and anchovy sandwich 620 00:38:17,040 --> 00:38:19,560 is with pineapple liqueur champagne cocktail. 621 00:38:19,560 --> 00:38:21,320 What are we doing? 622 00:38:24,440 --> 00:38:26,120 'For all their exuberance, 623 00:38:26,120 --> 00:38:29,960 'Marinetti and many of the Futurists were politically misguided. 624 00:38:29,960 --> 00:38:33,840 'When Mussolini and the Fascists came to power in 1922, 625 00:38:33,840 --> 00:38:38,560 'they embraced his radical policies to modernise Italy. 626 00:38:38,560 --> 00:38:43,280 'Mussolini would bring Italy to its knees and into the Second World War. 627 00:38:43,280 --> 00:38:46,600 'And there's one artist, Mario Sironi, who I think 628 00:38:46,600 --> 00:38:51,240 'captures the darkness of this time better than anyone else. 629 00:38:51,240 --> 00:38:54,880 'His work in the Novecento is a poignant reminder of how 630 00:38:54,880 --> 00:38:58,160 'Fascism devastated Italy.' 631 00:38:58,160 --> 00:39:01,640 These are some of Sironi's pictures in the '20s and '30s. 632 00:39:01,640 --> 00:39:03,840 And here, Sironi seems, 633 00:39:03,840 --> 00:39:07,080 I think, to be painting a kind of dark portrait of Italy 634 00:39:07,080 --> 00:39:09,280 as it moves into the Fascist years, 635 00:39:09,280 --> 00:39:12,200 as it moves towards totalitarians and... 636 00:39:12,200 --> 00:39:14,920 It's very difficult to think that this guy 637 00:39:14,920 --> 00:39:18,280 was associated with that movement. Yeah. 638 00:39:18,280 --> 00:39:21,960 I mean, what we see downstairs is this explosion of colour 639 00:39:21,960 --> 00:39:25,400 and energy, and things in here are just like monochrome. 640 00:39:25,400 --> 00:39:28,040 There is no hope in this picture isn't there? 641 00:39:28,040 --> 00:39:31,360 It's like the guy is almost fading away, isn't he? 642 00:39:31,360 --> 00:39:34,920 And the other one is in desperation completely. 643 00:39:34,920 --> 00:39:37,000 Like there is no future. 644 00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:41,120 Sironi had it from both angles because the Fascists, who he was 645 00:39:41,120 --> 00:39:44,360 supposedly working for, didn't like what he produced for them. 646 00:39:44,360 --> 00:39:46,760 And the avant-garde, the rest of Italy, as well, 647 00:39:46,760 --> 00:39:49,320 didn't like him because he was Fascist. 648 00:39:49,320 --> 00:39:53,840 And his work became ever increasingly melancholic. 649 00:39:53,840 --> 00:39:56,040 If we look at this picture, 650 00:39:56,040 --> 00:39:58,880 I mean, if anything, it's even darker than the other one. 651 00:39:58,880 --> 00:40:01,960 This melancholy figure, as it were, 652 00:40:01,960 --> 00:40:06,000 stranded among the ruins of this new modern Italy 653 00:40:06,000 --> 00:40:08,880 by a sort of shattered aqueduct. 654 00:40:08,880 --> 00:40:12,600 A night sky, it's all darkness, it's all despair. 655 00:40:12,600 --> 00:40:15,360 Do you think these pictures do get to the heart of 656 00:40:15,360 --> 00:40:17,160 this dark moment in Italian history? 657 00:40:17,160 --> 00:40:19,640 Definitely. Definitely, both of them. 658 00:40:19,640 --> 00:40:22,640 They really are very, very sad pictures. 659 00:40:22,640 --> 00:40:25,080 You know, because my family have been through that. 660 00:40:25,080 --> 00:40:28,560 My uncle got shot by the Fascists. He was a partisan? 661 00:40:28,560 --> 00:40:30,480 He was a partisan and he got killed. 662 00:40:30,480 --> 00:40:33,000 All the family were involved in the Resistance. 663 00:40:33,000 --> 00:40:35,480 When you hear my father talking about those years, 664 00:40:35,480 --> 00:40:39,040 they just, you know, they were really suffering, there was no food. 665 00:40:39,040 --> 00:40:41,120 The Americans were coming and bombing, 666 00:40:41,120 --> 00:40:42,800 the Germans were running away, 667 00:40:42,800 --> 00:40:47,360 you know, it's just really like a social implosion, the wars. 668 00:40:47,360 --> 00:40:50,440 You know, somewhere along the line you understood that this was 669 00:40:50,440 --> 00:40:52,440 what was going to happen. 670 00:40:52,440 --> 00:40:54,760 It's a rollercoaster ride, Italian history. 671 00:40:54,760 --> 00:40:57,800 'Despite the trauma suffered at the hands of the Fascists, 672 00:40:57,800 --> 00:41:00,440 'the country bounced back. 673 00:41:00,440 --> 00:41:03,520 'After the Second World War, Lombardy rolled its sleeves up 674 00:41:03,520 --> 00:41:07,040 'and kick started the economic boom of the '50s and '60s, 675 00:41:07,040 --> 00:41:10,400 'that transformed Italy into a modern country.' 676 00:41:16,120 --> 00:41:18,360 'Even though they never stand still, 677 00:41:18,360 --> 00:41:21,800 'the people of Lombardy never forget their roots. 678 00:41:21,800 --> 00:41:25,240 'Much of Lombard life is rooted in our food, 679 00:41:25,240 --> 00:41:29,480 'the kind of staple dishes I grew up eating. 680 00:41:29,480 --> 00:41:32,520 'After a busy day, I think it's time for Andrew 681 00:41:32,520 --> 00:41:34,800 'to experience a local classic.' 682 00:41:34,800 --> 00:41:37,840 We've been poncing around a lot. Poncing around? 683 00:41:37,840 --> 00:41:40,640 Yeah, we've been, we've been in the super shops 684 00:41:40,640 --> 00:41:43,320 and things like that, I want to show the heart 685 00:41:43,320 --> 00:41:45,960 that's really what the people eat, you know. 686 00:41:45,960 --> 00:41:48,520 So you're going to de-poncify us through food. 687 00:41:48,520 --> 00:41:49,800 Yes, that's right. 688 00:41:49,800 --> 00:41:52,120 So we have check out one very important ingredient. 689 00:41:52,120 --> 00:41:54,840 It's very early in the season, see if we've got any cabbage. 690 00:41:54,840 --> 00:41:56,560 If we've got cabbage, I can cook you Cassoeula. 691 00:42:06,040 --> 00:42:10,920 'Hearty and earthy, the Cassoeula is just as representative 692 00:42:10,920 --> 00:42:13,960 'of Lombardy as Marchesi's delicate risotto. 693 00:42:13,960 --> 00:42:17,840 'With the vegetables chosen, it's time to go to the butchers, 694 00:42:17,840 --> 00:42:20,280 'the Macelleria of Roberto Faravelli.' 695 00:42:21,880 --> 00:42:23,520 See, this is the Macelleria. 696 00:42:23,520 --> 00:42:26,480 This has been here for 50 years, Andrew, you know. 697 00:42:26,480 --> 00:42:29,040 We're going to meet the son. 698 00:42:29,040 --> 00:42:32,600 'The meat is the most important part of the Cassoeula. 699 00:42:32,600 --> 00:42:35,320 'This is real nose-to-tail eating. 700 00:42:35,320 --> 00:42:39,400 'And I know Roberto will sort us out with the best cuts.' 701 00:42:39,400 --> 00:42:40,760 HE SPEAKS ITALIAN 702 00:43:07,800 --> 00:43:10,840 This is puntina. Pork, spare ribs. Spare ribs, yeah. 703 00:43:14,280 --> 00:43:16,080 HE LAUGHS 704 00:43:16,080 --> 00:43:17,840 Sexy Italia, eh! 705 00:43:17,840 --> 00:43:19,120 THEY LAUGH 706 00:43:19,120 --> 00:43:21,640 The nose. The nose. Si. 707 00:43:26,120 --> 00:43:28,400 Gelatine. Gelatine. 708 00:43:28,400 --> 00:43:31,680 So you put the pig's nose in to make, to make it gelatinous? 709 00:43:31,680 --> 00:43:33,400 That's right. 710 00:43:33,400 --> 00:43:35,160 Ears. Ears. 711 00:43:36,600 --> 00:43:38,280 Nice and cruchant. Cruchant. 712 00:43:41,800 --> 00:43:45,600 How do you say in Italian, that's a meal to put hairs on a man's chest? 713 00:43:45,600 --> 00:43:47,640 GIORGIO TRANSLATES 714 00:43:50,240 --> 00:43:52,040 THEY LAUGH 715 00:44:09,960 --> 00:44:12,000 Grazie! Arrivederci, grazie. 716 00:44:18,520 --> 00:44:22,880 'Now it's time to get to work, and there's quite a lot of work to do. 717 00:44:25,000 --> 00:44:27,040 'It's ages since I've cooked it.' 718 00:44:29,560 --> 00:44:32,040 Beautiful, isn't it? 719 00:44:32,040 --> 00:44:33,520 Yeah, beautiful. 720 00:44:38,280 --> 00:44:41,040 The smells, the colour, 721 00:44:41,040 --> 00:44:43,360 you know, this is what food is all about for me. 722 00:44:43,360 --> 00:44:47,200 This is the smell that I used to smell as I came home from school. 723 00:44:47,200 --> 00:44:50,600 As soon as I got to the gate of the house, I knew that my 724 00:44:50,600 --> 00:44:55,640 grandmother was cooking this, because you could smell it from outside. 725 00:44:55,640 --> 00:44:58,520 Red wine. Red wine. 726 00:44:59,840 --> 00:45:02,560 Mmm, it's such a good smell. It is, isn't it? 727 00:45:02,560 --> 00:45:06,000 Now it's cooking. So we're going to add the rest of the pig. 728 00:45:06,000 --> 00:45:07,640 Do you want me to shave the pig's ear? 729 00:45:07,640 --> 00:45:10,560 That's right. Well, I want you to take away the hair. 730 00:45:10,560 --> 00:45:11,840 Just like that, yes. 731 00:45:11,840 --> 00:45:14,360 And in the meantime, while you're doing that, 732 00:45:14,360 --> 00:45:17,800 I'm going to add the other pieces. The tail, the snout. 733 00:45:17,800 --> 00:45:20,440 This feels to me, like a recipe that people have been 734 00:45:20,440 --> 00:45:21,880 cooking for many centuries. 735 00:45:21,880 --> 00:45:24,920 The idea is, they're using these parts because they are the parts 736 00:45:24,920 --> 00:45:28,280 that are ready to be used straight away when you've killed the pig. 737 00:45:28,280 --> 00:45:31,040 The rest of the meat, if it's hanged for a bit, it's better. 738 00:45:31,040 --> 00:45:34,880 The ham will go and be cured, the back will be back heated and slice. 739 00:45:34,880 --> 00:45:38,200 Oh, cos this is the dish for the day of killing of the pig, right. 740 00:45:38,200 --> 00:45:40,160 That's right, that's right. 741 00:45:40,160 --> 00:45:42,600 OK. Oh, it all begins to make sense. 742 00:45:42,600 --> 00:45:44,600 Here I've got the cabbage. 743 00:45:47,040 --> 00:45:50,920 Cabbage and pig, it's a classic combination, isn't it? 744 00:45:50,920 --> 00:45:52,480 Absolutely. 745 00:45:52,480 --> 00:45:56,000 And now all we have to do is wait for a couple of hours. 746 00:45:59,440 --> 00:46:02,200 OK, we are happy. 747 00:46:03,920 --> 00:46:07,960 'Finally, it's ready and time for Andrew to taste Lombardy.' 748 00:46:10,640 --> 00:46:13,800 Andrew, I introduce you to the Cassoeula. 749 00:46:13,800 --> 00:46:15,880 Mmm. Smell that. 750 00:46:15,880 --> 00:46:18,200 Mmm, fantastic. 751 00:46:18,200 --> 00:46:20,840 The nose. 752 00:46:20,840 --> 00:46:22,440 It looks lovely. 753 00:46:22,440 --> 00:46:25,000 I'm going to have the ears. 754 00:46:25,000 --> 00:46:27,280 Is there another ear? I'll give you half of my ear. 755 00:46:27,280 --> 00:46:29,280 Then, Andrew, what you do... 756 00:46:29,280 --> 00:46:31,280 You excavate some cabbage. 757 00:46:32,960 --> 00:46:35,400 The cabbage is fantastic, 758 00:46:35,400 --> 00:46:37,880 it's completely permeated with the meat juices. 759 00:46:37,880 --> 00:46:40,360 And kind of sweet, you know. 760 00:46:40,360 --> 00:46:42,240 It's a bit of ear. 761 00:46:42,240 --> 00:46:45,680 It's like cutting into jelly, fantastic. 762 00:46:46,960 --> 00:46:48,760 Mmm, it's really good. 763 00:46:48,760 --> 00:46:51,440 Completely melts in your mouth, doesn't it? 764 00:46:51,440 --> 00:46:53,040 It's fantastic food. 765 00:46:53,040 --> 00:46:56,480 I love food that belongs to somewhere, to a culture. 766 00:46:56,480 --> 00:46:58,960 And this, for me, it's Lombardy. 767 00:46:58,960 --> 00:47:01,800 Fantastic. Cheers. 768 00:47:01,800 --> 00:47:03,200 Cheers. 769 00:47:03,200 --> 00:47:05,360 And the next two hours eating. 770 00:47:05,360 --> 00:47:08,720 That's OK. We got time. Pace yourself. 771 00:47:08,720 --> 00:47:10,760 I know, we've got a lot to get through. 772 00:47:14,000 --> 00:47:17,640 'The Cassoeula was the perfect dish to change gear 773 00:47:17,640 --> 00:47:19,480 'and lead us out of Milan. 774 00:47:19,480 --> 00:47:22,720 'We've come to Mantua, in the Po Valley, 775 00:47:22,720 --> 00:47:25,560 'one of Lombardy's great treasures. 776 00:47:28,000 --> 00:47:32,040 'Tranquil and elegant, it's home to the second great masterpiece 777 00:47:32,040 --> 00:47:34,320 'I want us to visit. 778 00:47:43,000 --> 00:47:46,080 'The work of art is to be found inside the Palazzo Te, 779 00:47:46,080 --> 00:47:51,320 'a hunting lodge built in 1525 for the powerful Duke Federico Gonzaga. 780 00:47:52,760 --> 00:47:55,720 'I think Giorgio may even like it more than the frescos 781 00:47:55,720 --> 00:47:57,040 'we saw at Villa Suardi.' 782 00:47:58,480 --> 00:48:01,120 Prego signore. Cavaliere. 783 00:48:01,120 --> 00:48:03,760 'Inspired by the grand villas of Rome, 784 00:48:03,760 --> 00:48:07,400 'the palace was designed by architect and painter Giulio Romano.' 785 00:48:08,840 --> 00:48:11,680 So, Giorgio, welcome to the Palazzo Te. 786 00:48:11,680 --> 00:48:13,920 These guys used to live in luxury, didn't they? 787 00:48:13,920 --> 00:48:15,960 Well, I think of this as the house of fun. 788 00:48:15,960 --> 00:48:17,840 The whole place was once full of jokes. 789 00:48:17,840 --> 00:48:20,160 This courtyard, originally, there was a labyrinth, 790 00:48:20,160 --> 00:48:22,480 so even trying to get into this place, you'd get lost. 791 00:48:22,480 --> 00:48:24,880 Unless you were with the Duke, who would take you through. 792 00:48:24,880 --> 00:48:26,840 Oh, right. It was just full of little games. 793 00:48:26,840 --> 00:48:28,360 So here we are. 794 00:48:28,360 --> 00:48:32,320 Now this palace was not a place for serious thought. 795 00:48:32,320 --> 00:48:35,840 It wasn't a place for the administration of his estates. 796 00:48:35,840 --> 00:48:37,560 It wasn't a place for business. 797 00:48:37,560 --> 00:48:40,520 It was, so to speak, a place for monkey business. 798 00:48:40,520 --> 00:48:42,160 No way! 799 00:48:42,160 --> 00:48:47,040 And er, I think the theme of this set of illustrations, 800 00:48:47,040 --> 00:48:51,320 or decorations, is basically sex and drinking. 801 00:48:51,320 --> 00:48:55,040 'Inside, Giulio combined his skills to create some truly 802 00:48:55,040 --> 00:48:57,920 'sense-stunning illusions.' 803 00:48:57,920 --> 00:49:00,200 Everything I've shown you so far 804 00:49:00,200 --> 00:49:03,480 is a prelude to Giulio Romano's piece de resistance. 805 00:49:06,160 --> 00:49:10,520 Wow! Oh, my God! 806 00:49:10,520 --> 00:49:13,000 Come in the middle, come in the middle. 807 00:49:13,000 --> 00:49:14,640 It's so brilliant. 808 00:49:15,840 --> 00:49:17,880 Oh. 809 00:49:17,880 --> 00:49:20,240 It makes you almost feel sick, doesn't it? 810 00:49:20,240 --> 00:49:23,120 It's like it's falling down, the whole thing. 811 00:49:23,120 --> 00:49:24,800 Is it not straight or something? 812 00:49:24,800 --> 00:49:28,880 No, it's not straight at all. The room's got no corners, you see. 813 00:49:28,880 --> 00:49:33,120 So that's why you feel like you really fell down, doesn't it? 814 00:49:33,120 --> 00:49:34,800 Wow! 815 00:49:34,800 --> 00:49:37,000 And originally, the floor was undulating, 816 00:49:37,000 --> 00:49:40,440 so when you came in, you would almost stumble 817 00:49:40,440 --> 00:49:43,280 and feel like you were taking part in the scene, 818 00:49:43,280 --> 00:49:45,880 because the subject, in a sense, 819 00:49:45,880 --> 00:49:49,600 is the biggest earthquake in mythological history. 820 00:49:49,600 --> 00:49:51,280 It's called the Sala Dei Giganti. 821 00:49:53,560 --> 00:49:57,000 And the story is, that the giants had tried to 822 00:49:57,000 --> 00:49:59,400 rebel against Jupiter in heaven. 823 00:49:59,400 --> 00:50:02,000 And Jupiter punishes the giants 824 00:50:02,000 --> 00:50:04,720 by striking them with the thunder and lightning. 825 00:50:06,040 --> 00:50:08,480 Oh, this is incredible! 826 00:50:08,480 --> 00:50:10,720 Giulio Romano was taught by Raphael, 827 00:50:10,720 --> 00:50:13,160 the great master of the High Renaissance. 828 00:50:13,160 --> 00:50:15,960 And master of the calm and tranquillity, order, reason. 829 00:50:15,960 --> 00:50:19,240 And this, so to speak, is the first thing that Giulio Romano does 830 00:50:19,240 --> 00:50:21,000 after he gets out of school. 831 00:50:21,000 --> 00:50:22,880 He's rebelling against his teachers. 832 00:50:22,880 --> 00:50:26,040 It's almost as if he's bringing down the great edifice 833 00:50:26,040 --> 00:50:27,560 of the High Renaissance. 834 00:50:27,560 --> 00:50:30,240 He's bringing it down with his jokes and his games, 835 00:50:30,240 --> 00:50:33,480 poking fun at it, making fun of it. 836 00:50:33,480 --> 00:50:36,520 This style of art is called, Maniera, Mannerism. 837 00:50:36,520 --> 00:50:40,560 It's a reaction against all that purity, all that classicism. 838 00:50:40,560 --> 00:50:42,000 It's incredible. 839 00:50:45,840 --> 00:50:47,680 What a place, eh! 840 00:50:47,680 --> 00:50:49,720 I'm glad you liked it. 841 00:50:49,720 --> 00:50:52,560 'Palazzo Te certainly packs a punch. 842 00:50:52,560 --> 00:50:54,760 'But it's not just architecture and painting 843 00:50:54,760 --> 00:50:57,240 'that Lombardy does brilliantly. 844 00:51:01,480 --> 00:51:05,000 'A short drive away in Cremona, is another example of 845 00:51:05,000 --> 00:51:07,960 'the perfect marriage of tradition and innovation. 846 00:51:10,120 --> 00:51:13,280 'It's the home of the Stradivari violin. 847 00:51:13,280 --> 00:51:16,520 'Antonio Stradivari perfected the art of violin-making 848 00:51:16,520 --> 00:51:18,840 'here in the 18th century. 849 00:51:18,840 --> 00:51:23,000 'The Lombards have always been proud of their excellent craftsmanship, 850 00:51:23,000 --> 00:51:25,680 'and they are still making instruments 851 00:51:25,680 --> 00:51:28,000 'to the Stradivari standard today. 852 00:51:28,000 --> 00:51:31,440 'We are visiting the International School Of Violin Making.' 853 00:51:32,920 --> 00:51:34,560 Number five, here we are. 854 00:51:34,560 --> 00:51:36,440 Come, Andrew. 855 00:51:42,680 --> 00:51:45,080 When I was little, I used to go in Varese 856 00:51:45,080 --> 00:51:47,800 and there was this shop where these guys made violins. 857 00:51:47,800 --> 00:51:51,280 And I was so fascinated by how they made them. 858 00:51:51,280 --> 00:51:54,920 Signor Daniele, buongiorno. Buongiorno. 859 00:51:54,920 --> 00:51:58,000 Signor Andrea. Piacere. 860 00:52:00,160 --> 00:52:03,040 Look at those tools that they have to make it. 861 00:52:03,040 --> 00:52:04,920 I love the precision and it takes... 862 00:52:09,960 --> 00:52:12,400 ..50 days to make a violin. 50! 863 00:52:12,400 --> 00:52:16,240 50 working days. So it is a work of love. 864 00:52:16,240 --> 00:52:18,160 I notice that he's... 865 00:52:29,480 --> 00:52:33,320 One little stroke of that wrong, you can just mess it all up. 866 00:52:33,320 --> 00:52:39,240 So, to me, this is artisan work taken to a different level. 867 00:52:39,240 --> 00:52:42,240 Look at that. Beautiful! 868 00:52:42,240 --> 00:52:45,800 Every liutaio goes and chooses his own wood, 869 00:52:45,800 --> 00:52:49,360 like an artist would choose his own colours. 870 00:52:49,360 --> 00:52:51,800 Michelangelo going to Carrera to choose his marble. 871 00:52:51,800 --> 00:52:54,080 Or a chef choosing his own ingredients. Yeah. 872 00:52:54,080 --> 00:52:56,480 You know, the principle ingredient is the wood. 873 00:52:56,480 --> 00:53:00,120 'Stradivari violins are the most valuable in the world. 874 00:53:00,120 --> 00:53:03,560 'In the town's museum, there is an unrivalled collection 875 00:53:03,560 --> 00:53:06,720 'of some of the Master's original instruments. 876 00:53:06,720 --> 00:53:11,520 'To preserve their sound, they must to be played regularly. 877 00:53:11,520 --> 00:53:15,480 'I've arranged for us to have a private audience with Maestro Bosco, 878 00:53:15,480 --> 00:53:19,840 'the person responsible for keeping these precious objects alive.' 879 00:53:39,320 --> 00:53:41,560 We're going to hear a Stradivarius. Yes. 880 00:53:41,560 --> 00:53:43,560 And it's called Vesuvius. Vesuvius. 881 00:53:45,480 --> 00:53:49,200 'I can't quite believe we're going to have our own private concert 882 00:53:49,200 --> 00:53:52,120 'played on an original Stradivarius.' 883 00:53:52,120 --> 00:53:53,880 Vesuvio. 884 00:53:55,160 --> 00:53:57,120 HE PLAYS THE VIOLIN 885 00:54:06,320 --> 00:54:07,840 'This is such a treat. 886 00:54:07,840 --> 00:54:10,840 'I never realised that Stradivari was from Lombardy, 887 00:54:10,840 --> 00:54:12,840 'but it all makes sense. 888 00:54:12,840 --> 00:54:15,720 'The attention to detail, the beautiful design, 889 00:54:15,720 --> 00:54:18,320 'the utter fitness for purpose.' 890 00:54:32,120 --> 00:54:35,440 'There is one last stop for us in Lombardy. 891 00:54:35,440 --> 00:54:38,640 'A place that for me epitomises the spirit of the region, 892 00:54:38,640 --> 00:54:40,840 'the Taccani power station. 893 00:54:42,120 --> 00:54:46,040 'Built in 1904, it was one of a series of hydro electric plants 894 00:54:46,040 --> 00:54:50,640 'on the river Adda, that powered the modern success of Lombardy. 895 00:54:50,640 --> 00:54:54,680 'My father and his father before him were hydraulic engineers, 896 00:54:54,680 --> 00:54:58,200 'so places like this are special to me.' 897 00:54:58,200 --> 00:55:00,680 Going and seeing my father when he was working, 898 00:55:00,680 --> 00:55:02,560 I spent a lot of time in places like that. 899 00:55:02,560 --> 00:55:04,440 But, you know, it is so important 900 00:55:04,440 --> 00:55:07,680 because this is the blood of Lombardy. 901 00:55:07,680 --> 00:55:11,800 They found themselves with a really enormous light industry that 902 00:55:11,800 --> 00:55:14,200 needed energy to propel it forward. 903 00:55:14,200 --> 00:55:18,680 They didn't have anything to burn, so they harnessed the power 904 00:55:18,680 --> 00:55:21,280 of these mountains and this water coming down. 905 00:55:21,280 --> 00:55:24,320 I love these old machines, I think they are wonderful. 906 00:55:24,320 --> 00:55:26,040 They are incredible, aren't they? 907 00:55:26,040 --> 00:55:29,080 This is like a...it's really an expression of what the 908 00:55:29,080 --> 00:55:33,840 Lombards are, which is about movement, energy, going forwards, 909 00:55:33,840 --> 00:55:38,160 building, you know, just getting things moving all the time. 910 00:55:38,160 --> 00:55:40,160 They really built them to last, didn't they? 911 00:55:40,160 --> 00:55:42,160 To think they were made in 1904, 912 00:55:42,160 --> 00:55:44,640 and they're still powering Lombardy with electricity. 913 00:55:44,640 --> 00:55:46,120 Still, yeah. 914 00:55:46,120 --> 00:55:48,080 And what is really, really nice as well is, 915 00:55:48,080 --> 00:55:51,160 the river makes the motion to get the tram in Milan to work. 916 00:55:51,160 --> 00:55:55,400 And it is lovely to think that energy then propelled that thing 917 00:55:55,400 --> 00:55:58,640 all the way through the Futurism to everybody. 918 00:55:58,640 --> 00:56:00,680 Oh, I was going to say without this place, 919 00:56:00,680 --> 00:56:02,760 Futurism wouldn't have been possible. Absolutely. 920 00:56:02,760 --> 00:56:05,600 They were celebrating the electrical city. 921 00:56:05,600 --> 00:56:08,280 There's so much noise in here. Yeah, there is. 922 00:56:08,280 --> 00:56:11,440 It makes me feel like I am in a cathedral full of machines! 923 00:56:14,400 --> 00:56:17,360 Strikes me that this is quite a good place to end our journey, 924 00:56:17,360 --> 00:56:20,160 given that we have been banging on about how Lombardy is 925 00:56:20,160 --> 00:56:22,240 the motor that drives Italy. 926 00:56:22,240 --> 00:56:25,560 And here we are, at a turbine station that furnishes 927 00:56:25,560 --> 00:56:28,120 half of the electricity of the region. 928 00:56:28,120 --> 00:56:29,760 Pretty amazing building. 929 00:56:29,760 --> 00:56:31,200 It's great, it's like a palace. 930 00:56:31,200 --> 00:56:33,880 It's like the Palazzo del Te, except instead of having... 931 00:56:33,880 --> 00:56:36,120 Palazzo del electricita. 932 00:56:36,120 --> 00:56:39,520 I think it really sums up what I've got from this particular journey, 933 00:56:39,520 --> 00:56:44,400 which is a really strong sense of the role that this part of Italy 934 00:56:44,400 --> 00:56:47,240 has played in the larger Italian story. 935 00:56:47,240 --> 00:56:51,040 I think really Lombardy has sort of electrically propelled 936 00:56:51,040 --> 00:56:53,480 the rest into the 20th century. 937 00:56:53,480 --> 00:56:55,840 Well, that's the reason that I took you here, 938 00:56:55,840 --> 00:57:00,920 because I really see the connection between these kind of spaces. 939 00:57:00,920 --> 00:57:07,360 These kind of showpieces like this are very beautiful to see, 940 00:57:07,360 --> 00:57:10,400 but, as well, they really show the resilience of the Lombard. 941 00:57:10,400 --> 00:57:13,000 And that meal you cooked, what did you call it, the cass...? 942 00:57:13,000 --> 00:57:15,040 Cassoeula. Cassoeula. Yeah. 943 00:57:15,040 --> 00:57:17,760 I felt that it was a really nice transition. 944 00:57:17,760 --> 00:57:21,560 It helped me understand, as it were, where Lombardy came from, 945 00:57:21,560 --> 00:57:24,840 because that, to me, felt like the origins of this place. 946 00:57:24,840 --> 00:57:28,320 I was going back to something that people had eaten almost for ever. 947 00:57:28,320 --> 00:57:32,440 And it wasn't very fancy, it wasn't very posh, it was really rustic. 948 00:57:32,440 --> 00:57:34,960 That's food from the fields, and that, to me, 949 00:57:34,960 --> 00:57:38,960 almost was a symbol of how far they rose, you know. 950 00:57:38,960 --> 00:57:42,440 Through that cathedral, bringing all the intellectuals here. 951 00:57:42,440 --> 00:57:43,760 Through that culture of design 952 00:57:43,760 --> 00:57:46,320 gradually developing into the 19th century, 953 00:57:46,320 --> 00:57:50,240 It's an amazing evolution from really quite low origins. 954 00:57:50,240 --> 00:57:56,480 This is also based really on an absolutely strong work ethic. 955 00:57:56,480 --> 00:58:00,720 Everybody realised themselves through work. 956 00:58:00,720 --> 00:58:02,600 Work is like a religion for them. 957 00:58:02,600 --> 00:58:05,280 When they get up in the morning and see you in the square, 958 00:58:05,280 --> 00:58:06,840 they don't say to you, "How are you?" 959 00:58:06,840 --> 00:58:10,240 They say, "Come va il lavoro?", which means, "How's the work?" 960 00:58:10,240 --> 00:58:11,800 How's the work?! 961 00:58:11,800 --> 00:58:14,040 How's the work, yeah, how do you do in the work? 962 00:58:14,040 --> 00:58:17,000 Do you think I've finally...hey, maybe I've finally understood 963 00:58:17,000 --> 00:58:20,120 that's why you're the way you are! Why? 964 00:58:20,120 --> 00:58:23,080 Because you are a Lombard, you never stop working! 965 00:58:24,600 --> 00:58:27,560 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 82604

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