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'I'm Andrew Graham Dickson
and I'm an art historian.
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'I'm Giorgio Locatelli
and I'm a chef.
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00:00:09,720 --> 00:00:13,640
'We are both passionate
about my homeland, Italy.'
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00:00:13,640 --> 00:00:18,240
The smells, the colour, this is
what food is all about for me.
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00:00:18,240 --> 00:00:23,120
'The rich flavours and classic dishes
of this land are in my culinary DNA.
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00:00:23,120 --> 00:00:25,920
'And this country's
rich layers of art
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00:00:25,920 --> 00:00:29,320
'and history have captivated me
since childhood.'
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It's meant to make you feel as if
you are being whirled up to heaven.
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00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:36,880
'We're stepping off the tourist
track and exploring Italy's
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00:00:36,880 --> 00:00:41,400
'Northern regions of Emilia-Romagna,
Lombardy and Piedmont.'
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00:00:41,400 --> 00:00:45,000
'It's part of Italy that's often
overlooked, but it drives
12
00:00:45,000 --> 00:00:48,720
'the whole country, and I want
to show off its classic dishes.
13
00:00:48,720 --> 00:00:50,920
'Not to mention its hidden legacy
14
00:00:50,920 --> 00:00:53,480
'of artists, designers,
intellectuals.'
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One of the world's great builders.
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00:00:55,480 --> 00:00:57,560
Bellissima.
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00:00:57,560 --> 00:00:59,880
'This week we are in Emilia-Romagna,
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00:00:59,880 --> 00:01:03,280
'the birthplace of modern
Italian cuisine.
19
00:01:03,280 --> 00:01:06,360
'And home to some of Italy's
most fascinating artists
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00:01:06,360 --> 00:01:08,000
'and powerful dynasties.'
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00:01:17,560 --> 00:01:20,360
We are beginning our journey to this
wonderful region
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in Bologna, its capital.
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00:01:24,240 --> 00:01:27,800
I first came here with my parents
when I was about ten years old
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and we must have visited
just about every church in the city
25
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and everywhere we went, we bought
postcards of the altar pieces,
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the sculptures, the paintings,
and I always remember going home
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and sitting at the kitchen table
with my mum for about a week,
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off and on, we made this scrap book.
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Maybe it was my very first
lesson in art history.
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I'm looking forward to
see all these producers,
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to put some faces
on these people that
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00:01:55,800 --> 00:01:58,520
I talk to through the
telephone, you know, ordering stuff.
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Cos, you know, our menu always has
something
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that comes from this place.
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Since the Middle Ages, Bologna has
been known by three nicknames,
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la dotta, la grassa e la rossa -
the learned, the fat and the red.
37
00:02:18,440 --> 00:02:22,960
'Renowned for its striking red
building, militant politics and rich
38
00:02:22,960 --> 00:02:27,600
'cuisine, Bologna represents quality
and taste, not to mention power.'
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00:02:31,440 --> 00:02:32,920
I love the statue.
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00:02:32,920 --> 00:02:35,080
And you know, for me,
this is really Bologna,
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these big breasts she's holding
there. Neptune, the abundance.
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The abundance. Oh. It's a symbol of
the fact that Bologna has always
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thought of itself as a rich city,
a powerful city.
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You know, we can get Giambologna,
the greatest sculptor of his age
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00:02:50,160 --> 00:02:52,880
to come here and create
our Neptune Fountain.
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00:02:54,040 --> 00:02:56,640
You can feel Bologna's sense of its
own power
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00:02:56,640 --> 00:02:59,080
as the capital of
Emilia-Romagna here.
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It's the architecture of power,
the scale is enormous.
49
00:03:02,280 --> 00:03:05,160
And it's not only that,
it's also that you know the culture,
50
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I mean, the culture of food
is incredible.
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00:03:07,560 --> 00:03:09,600
You know Parma ham is
52
00:03:09,600 --> 00:03:12,320
more recognisable than
the Italian flag, isn't it?
53
00:03:12,320 --> 00:03:14,520
It's more representative
of Italy than...
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00:03:14,520 --> 00:03:16,360
Parma ham and Parmesan cheese.
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Parmesan cheese,
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you know, all produced in
a very traditional, artisan way.
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Tradition is important in Bologna,
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a city which likes
to remember its past.
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At its heart is the oldest
university in the world,
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established in 1088.
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"The home of la dotta, the learned."
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'Enrico Brizzi, one of my favourite
Italian authors, studied here
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'and he's agreed to show us round.'
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This is where you belong, Andrew.
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Wow.
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It's fantastic. You just come in
off the street like that. Yeah.
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The most influential families,
the most wealthy family all
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around Europe send their children
for a tour of the main universities
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00:04:23,760 --> 00:04:27,840
and it was almost
compulsory to pass from here.
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00:04:27,840 --> 00:04:32,120
Have some time in Bologna.
Are these their graduation plaques?
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Yeah. The graduated students
left here
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the coat of arms of their families.
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00:04:39,840 --> 00:04:44,720
'In 1562, Bologna began a massive
remodelling of the city centre,
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'including an expansion
of the Cathedral of San Pietro.
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00:04:47,960 --> 00:04:51,600
'When the Pope realised, with some
alarm, that the cathedral was
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'destined to become bigger than
St Peter's and the Vatican itself,
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00:04:55,080 --> 00:04:59,840
'the money was diverted to these
magnificent university buildings
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00:04:59,840 --> 00:05:04,400
'and it gave birth to a new type
of pilgrim to Bologna - students.'
79
00:05:04,400 --> 00:05:07,480
You know, Andrew, what I think, as
well, is that all the students come
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00:05:07,480 --> 00:05:11,600
here and this is not only important
what they bring in and learn,
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00:05:11,600 --> 00:05:15,320
but also what they take away. Of
the colour of the building but...
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00:05:15,320 --> 00:05:18,200
'These hallowed halls have seen
the likes of Dante, Petrarch
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00:05:18,200 --> 00:05:21,120
'and Thomas a Beckett
pass through them.
84
00:05:21,120 --> 00:05:25,320
'And there's one room which I'm
particularly excited about seeing.
85
00:05:25,320 --> 00:05:29,920
'A true example of how art
can inspire learning.'
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Wow!
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This is one of the great things,
not just to Bologna,
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this is one of the great
things in the world.
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00:05:40,920 --> 00:05:45,880
It's the only really authentic
surviving early, early,
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00:05:45,880 --> 00:05:49,600
anatomy theatre, and that is
a Renaissance-coffered ceiling.
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00:05:49,600 --> 00:05:52,800
And in the middle we've got Apollo
with his lyre, pointing down,
92
00:05:52,800 --> 00:05:55,400
the God of Medicine pointing
straight down,
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00:05:55,400 --> 00:05:59,680
probably to the hand of the
anatomy teacher as he demonstrates
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00:05:59,680 --> 00:06:01,680
to his students
how to cut up a body.
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I feel a bit presumptuous doing
this but I think it's the only
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way to understand the space,
which is a theatre of learning.
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He loves it up there.
98
00:06:18,080 --> 00:06:22,440
Yeah, because the Professor
in ancient times was also an actor.
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Right. Yeah, absolutely.
Who is performing lessons.
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00:06:25,080 --> 00:06:28,920
Absolutely, teaching was a form of
rhetoric and you feel that up here.
101
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My job would have been... Giorgio,
come up here, Giorgio, come on.
102
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My job would have been to
be down here, I'll tell you. No.
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Sweeping up the blood
and the entrails left over.
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And so now you're on the spot
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and you've got all the figures
of the past, Galen, Hippocrates,
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they are all caught in
a frozen moment of their teaching.
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And this canopy on the top of us
is an allegorical figure of anatomy
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but it's supported by these
grizzly figures of skinned men.
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Yes.
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00:07:00,680 --> 00:07:02,240
So you can see the tendons.
111
00:07:02,240 --> 00:07:05,040
Yes, and the muscle and everything.
This is incredible.
112
00:07:05,040 --> 00:07:07,000
He's even got a peeled penis.
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You don't see
many of those in world art.
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See that figure at the back? Uh-huh.
Do you know what he's holding? No.
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He is holding a human nose
because that is Tagliacozzi,
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00:07:24,960 --> 00:07:28,240
the founding father of cosmetic
surgery who apparently... He didn't!
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He did, he did the first nose job,
so that's why he's holding a nose.
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The nose. Oh, my God.
How many years ago?
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How many ears ago?
How many noses ago?
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00:07:40,040 --> 00:07:44,680
Madonna. Enrico, I have to say
thank you, it's just a masterpiece.
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00:07:46,440 --> 00:07:49,240
'It's not hard to see how Bologna
earned its nickname
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'la dotta, the learned.
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00:07:51,640 --> 00:07:54,720
'Walking through these
stunning buildings,
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'the sense of them as living places
of learning really is striking.
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'They give the whole city
a sense of life and vivacity.
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'But just like an army,
students and their teachers march
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'on their stomachs and it's time
to discover a true Bolognese meal.'
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00:08:10,800 --> 00:08:13,720
You know what? With all this culture
and everything, I think that,
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you know, now we should just
explore the second bit.
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00:08:18,400 --> 00:08:21,080
Enough dotta,
enough intelligentsia,
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00:08:21,080 --> 00:08:23,960
let us work out
something about the grassa.
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'You can't come to Bologna without
eating the king of Italian dishes -
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'pasta ragu - a dish that's known
worldwide by another name -
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'spaghetti Bolognese.
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'In Italy,
we are famous for our pasta,
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'and Bologna is the place to
come from fresh egg pasta,
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'which artisans here
turn into a work of art.
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'No wonder this city is
known as la grassa, the fat one.'
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So here, the same attention
to detail that is paid to art
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and to music,
you know, is paid to food.
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And so here you are, look,
this is all made by hand.
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Look at what it says there,
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"Tagliatelle ve le tagliamo
su misura."
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They cut the tagliatelle
how long you want it,
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so if you want heavy sauce,
short tagliatelle,
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if you have a light sauce,
like a pesto or tomato sauce then
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long tagliatelle, two fork or one
fork they call it, you know.
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So this is tailor-made pasta?
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But not only. Look, it says here,
"Tortellini per ingannare i mariti."
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To fool your husband.
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Cos you take them home and tell your
husband that you made it yourself.
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Per ingannare i mariti. Yeah.
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Buona sera, signora Edda.
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Buona sera.
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00:09:37,640 --> 00:09:39,640
Che piacere vedere la.
TRANSLATION
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Ma ciao, come stai?
157
00:09:45,120 --> 00:09:48,440
You don't come in here
just to buy stuff.
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It's not like a fuel station
that you come in
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and you fill up the car and go.
You talk to them, they talk to you.
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Look, there's a chair, you can
sit down if you're tired.
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'Food here is a living tradition.
162
00:10:01,480 --> 00:10:04,640
'This shop has been in the same
family for 130 years.'
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00:10:08,080 --> 00:10:09,920
Andiamo far un po di pasta?
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00:10:09,920 --> 00:10:12,880
It's obviously very serious
business, this pasta, Giorgio?
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It is very serious.
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'This is the perfect place to get
the tagliatelle for dinner tonight.'
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00:10:17,640 --> 00:10:21,080
This is like a cathedral. You're
entering now the inner chamber.
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00:10:21,080 --> 00:10:22,720
Prego, prego!
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00:10:24,480 --> 00:10:28,000
When you eat spaghetti
or when you eat dried pasta,
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00:10:28,000 --> 00:10:31,200
the one that comes from the south,
that's durum wheat.
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00:10:31,200 --> 00:10:34,120
Mm-hm. OK, so durum wheat
contains a lot of protein.
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This, because in the north,
the type of soil,
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they just only grow soft wheat.
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So the soft wheat hasn't got
any protein in it.
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So the al dente won't be there,
the pasta will be very mushy.
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OK, so by putting in the eggs,
which contains a lot of protein
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in the eggs, you're going to
achieve that al dente texture.
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00:10:53,440 --> 00:10:58,840
This is like a...an incredible
expression of how, actually,
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00:10:58,840 --> 00:11:03,160
the land determine
what you have on the plate.
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00:11:03,160 --> 00:11:06,800
You know, all the world eats this
spaghetti Bolognese.
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00:11:06,800 --> 00:11:09,640
Here when they make the Bolognese
in Bologna, they don't know
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00:11:09,640 --> 00:11:12,480
what spaghetti Bolognese is.
Nobody eats spaghetti Bolognese.
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00:11:12,480 --> 00:11:14,280
No Bolognese. Noi solo facciamo.
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00:11:16,360 --> 00:11:18,800
So how come, the world over,
people eat spaghetti Bolognese?
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00:11:18,800 --> 00:11:22,200
Because the Americans, you know.
Oh, OK.
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00:11:31,360 --> 00:11:33,160
Have you seen this?
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00:11:33,160 --> 00:11:36,160
This is called mattarello.
188
00:11:36,160 --> 00:11:39,240
Signora Edda, a cosa servi il
mattarello? Per due cose no?
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00:11:39,240 --> 00:11:40,640
Per il marito.
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00:11:40,640 --> 00:11:41,720
Two things.
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To make the pasta and when
your husband come back drunk,
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you wait behind the door
193
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and ba-da-boom!
194
00:11:48,440 --> 00:11:51,680
And apparently they say that
if you don't know why you hit him,
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00:11:51,680 --> 00:11:52,880
he knows why you hit him.
196
00:11:52,880 --> 00:11:54,520
Il marito lo conosce.
197
00:11:54,520 --> 00:11:57,880
Yeah, it's the husband knows
this one very well apparently.
198
00:11:59,640 --> 00:12:02,760
Is that the right length
for your...? That's perfect.
199
00:12:08,800 --> 00:12:11,000
No pomodoro, eh.
200
00:12:11,000 --> 00:12:14,640
She said don't use tomatoes.
Don't use tomatoes!
201
00:12:14,640 --> 00:12:16,840
Buonapetito.
202
00:12:16,840 --> 00:12:18,120
Don't drop it.
203
00:12:25,080 --> 00:12:28,240
'I'm leaving Andrew for a couple
of hours to buy some other
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00:12:28,240 --> 00:12:30,040
'ingredients for dinner tonight.'
205
00:12:36,320 --> 00:12:37,400
Oh, yes.
206
00:12:37,400 --> 00:12:38,800
Tre o quarto carotti.
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00:12:44,160 --> 00:12:46,120
Grazie.
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00:12:48,440 --> 00:12:50,520
'My ragu is based on
a classic recipe,
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00:12:50,520 --> 00:12:54,040
'written by Pellegrino Artusi
in 1891.'
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00:12:54,040 --> 00:12:55,960
Buongiorno. Buongiorno.
211
00:12:55,960 --> 00:12:59,880
'His book, Science In The Kitchen
And The Art Of Eating Well
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00:12:59,880 --> 00:13:03,560
'is my Bible. In fact, here in Italy,
it's everybody Bible.'
213
00:13:03,560 --> 00:13:05,600
Questa e per la ragu antiqua?
214
00:13:05,600 --> 00:13:08,040
A l'antiqua. Quello di Artusi.
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00:13:08,040 --> 00:13:09,160
Esatto. Fantastico.
216
00:13:09,160 --> 00:13:12,720
Senza pomodoro e!
217
00:13:12,720 --> 00:13:13,960
Un pocatino?
218
00:13:13,960 --> 00:13:15,360
E ci vuole e.
219
00:13:15,360 --> 00:13:16,800
Ci la mettiamo?
220
00:13:16,800 --> 00:13:19,040
Ci la mettiamo un pocatino.
Una punto cosi.
221
00:13:26,200 --> 00:13:29,000
'While Giorgio
focuses on the local cuisine,
222
00:13:29,000 --> 00:13:32,400
'I want to find a delicacy of
my own, of the artistic type.
223
00:13:38,520 --> 00:13:41,760
'I'm on the hunt for one
of Bologna's hidden gems.
224
00:13:41,760 --> 00:13:44,960
'Every major Italian town
has a Pinacoteca Nazionale -
225
00:13:44,960 --> 00:13:48,840
'National Art Gallery - which
houses the work of local artists.
226
00:13:51,160 --> 00:13:54,640
'Thankfully, there's 25 miles
of portico's covering Bologna's
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00:13:54,640 --> 00:13:56,720
'pavements to keep
the sun off my head.'
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00:13:58,400 --> 00:14:02,280
'And with their frescoes, even these
are artistic as well as functional.'
229
00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:10,800
Solo stanco? I'm exhausted.
Are you OK? It's too hot.
230
00:14:10,800 --> 00:14:12,120
Yeah, it's OK, but look at this.
231
00:14:12,120 --> 00:14:14,680
It's difficult to find this place,
eh? It's not easy to find
232
00:14:14,680 --> 00:14:16,400
but this is what I like, you know.
233
00:14:16,400 --> 00:14:18,760
Here we are,
it's an unassuming part of Bologna.
234
00:14:18,760 --> 00:14:19,960
Really unassuming.
235
00:14:19,960 --> 00:14:23,440
Really unassuming. You wouldn't
even know that this art gallery
236
00:14:23,440 --> 00:14:25,480
was here, it's just
a little subtle sign,
237
00:14:25,480 --> 00:14:28,720
"Ministero Per I Bene E
Le Attivita Culturali",
238
00:14:28,720 --> 00:14:31,760
but I've found a real treat
inside for you. Yeah?
239
00:14:31,760 --> 00:14:35,200
'This building may not
be as impressive as the Uffizi
240
00:14:35,200 --> 00:14:38,640
'in Florence, but inside there
are real treasures to be found.
241
00:14:42,120 --> 00:14:46,400
'The pinnacle of Italian art is not
restricted to Tuscany and Rome.
242
00:14:46,400 --> 00:14:50,400
'Bologna and Emilia-Romagna also
produced some fantastically
243
00:14:50,400 --> 00:14:52,480
'influential artists.'
244
00:14:52,480 --> 00:14:58,760
The Bolognese do not like this idea
that you simply paint what you see.
245
00:14:58,760 --> 00:15:01,240
Realism is not their thing.
246
00:15:01,240 --> 00:15:04,440
Art is about conveying an idea,
247
00:15:04,440 --> 00:15:07,280
it's a much more
intellectual approach to painting.
248
00:15:11,920 --> 00:15:15,400
Guido Reni was
born in Bologna in 1575
249
00:15:15,400 --> 00:15:17,880
and became celebrated
throughout Italy.
250
00:15:17,880 --> 00:15:20,920
But his fame dimmed as
the Bolognese style of painting
251
00:15:20,920 --> 00:15:22,080
fell out of fashion.
252
00:15:23,280 --> 00:15:25,760
That I really like.
253
00:15:25,760 --> 00:15:30,120
This great painting was commissioned
for Bologna's San Domenico Church.
254
00:15:30,120 --> 00:15:32,480
And you can just imagine
the impact it would have had
255
00:15:32,480 --> 00:15:34,920
as you stared at it over Mass.
256
00:15:34,920 --> 00:15:36,720
It certainly draws your eye,
it's a drama.
257
00:15:36,720 --> 00:15:39,160
Yeah, it's a drama.
It's the Massacre of the Innocents.
258
00:15:39,160 --> 00:15:41,200
So that's what they are,
the little kids?
259
00:15:41,200 --> 00:15:44,760
This is one of the bloodiest
scenes in all of the Bible -
260
00:15:44,760 --> 00:15:47,280
a genocide enacted upon children.
261
00:15:47,280 --> 00:15:48,680
Children, yeah.
262
00:15:48,680 --> 00:15:51,760
And yet the idea
here in Bologna was that
263
00:15:51,760 --> 00:15:55,440
if you actually painted it
as if it were real, it would just be
264
00:15:55,440 --> 00:15:59,520
so sensational that people wouldn't
think about what's really going on.
265
00:15:59,520 --> 00:16:03,160
Whereas if you distance it all,
people can bear to look at it
266
00:16:03,160 --> 00:16:06,200
and therefore they can
think about it in a different way
267
00:16:06,200 --> 00:16:07,840
and be affected by it
in a different way.
268
00:16:19,800 --> 00:16:21,760
For dinner, Andrew and I
269
00:16:21,760 --> 00:16:25,080
will enjoy a Bolognese masterpiece
of a different sort.
270
00:16:25,080 --> 00:16:26,680
Pasta ragu.
271
00:16:26,680 --> 00:16:29,360
It's a dish that sits firmly
on the local tradition
272
00:16:29,360 --> 00:16:31,320
of rich Italian food.
273
00:16:31,320 --> 00:16:34,440
It must be one of the reasons Bologna
is also nicknamed la grassa,
274
00:16:34,440 --> 00:16:35,440
the fat.
275
00:16:36,880 --> 00:16:42,760
Bologna la Dotta would not exist
without Bologna la grassa -
276
00:16:42,760 --> 00:16:44,760
la grassa, the fat one.
277
00:16:46,120 --> 00:16:50,280
'For my ragu sauce, I'm following
Pellegrino Artusi's classic recipe.
278
00:16:50,280 --> 00:16:54,720
'Artusi was obsessed by the idea
of compiling comprehensive
lists of recipes,
279
00:16:54,720 --> 00:16:57,400
'from every Italian region.'
280
00:16:57,400 --> 00:17:00,040
Artusi, he's one of your heroes,
right?
281
00:17:00,040 --> 00:17:01,840
He's definitely my hero.
282
00:17:01,840 --> 00:17:07,640
He was the first writer that actually
sort of put together in the book,
283
00:17:07,640 --> 00:17:10,760
a concept of Italian cuisine.
284
00:17:10,760 --> 00:17:13,840
You know, because we have so many
different regions with so many
285
00:17:13,840 --> 00:17:18,320
different microclimatic conditions
and so many different ingredients.
286
00:17:18,320 --> 00:17:20,920
So obviously the diet
is a little bit different.
287
00:17:20,920 --> 00:17:26,280
So it's believed it was not just
to give you a recipe, he'd give you
288
00:17:26,280 --> 00:17:29,680
the whole history of the recipe
and the meaning of the recipe.
289
00:17:29,680 --> 00:17:32,920
So it's kind of
a culinary portrait of Italy?
290
00:17:32,920 --> 00:17:35,840
Garibaldi unified Italy politically,
291
00:17:35,840 --> 00:17:39,240
but he kind of unified
Italy gastronomically.
292
00:17:39,240 --> 00:17:40,760
Do you know what I mean?
293
00:17:45,120 --> 00:17:47,760
I'm going to add a little nice
slap of butter.
294
00:17:47,760 --> 00:17:51,080
You said you were going to put
some heart in it?
295
00:17:51,080 --> 00:17:52,240
Was it a lamb's heart?
296
00:17:52,240 --> 00:17:54,760
Yeah, the butcher that we went
this morning to get the thing,
297
00:17:54,760 --> 00:17:56,880
he says, "Oh, you want
two hearts as well?"
298
00:17:56,880 --> 00:17:58,920
I'm, like, "Yeah, I'll
have the hearts as well."
299
00:17:58,920 --> 00:18:00,520
I thought it was really good.
300
00:18:00,520 --> 00:18:01,880
So you must have liked Othello,
301
00:18:01,880 --> 00:18:05,440
if you've allowed Othello to alter
the great Artusi's recipe, eh?
302
00:18:05,440 --> 00:18:07,080
That's true, you're right.
303
00:18:07,080 --> 00:18:09,960
If you get some good advice on the
market or it just seems right,
304
00:18:09,960 --> 00:18:11,120
you follow it, yeah.
305
00:18:15,680 --> 00:18:17,600
So my meat is now kind of browning.
306
00:18:19,640 --> 00:18:23,760
I'm going to put the vegetables in it
that I already cooked.
307
00:18:23,760 --> 00:18:26,600
Today when I went to the butcher,
Othello he said,
308
00:18:26,600 --> 00:18:31,440
"It's true that Artusi
say not to put the tomato,
309
00:18:31,440 --> 00:18:35,480
"but just a nice, little
spoon of tomato,
310
00:18:35,480 --> 00:18:37,960
"per il colore, for the colour."
311
00:18:37,960 --> 00:18:40,440
But you know what you're doing here?
I'm doing...
312
00:18:40,440 --> 00:18:41,640
You know what you're doing.
313
00:18:41,640 --> 00:18:44,240
You're going to get hit on the head
with that rolling pin!
314
00:18:44,240 --> 00:18:45,880
Cos she said whatever you do,
315
00:18:45,880 --> 00:18:49,320
if you're making the ragu Bolognese,
you don't put the tomato in.
316
00:18:49,320 --> 00:18:51,720
But I really want to put
a little bit of tomato in it.
317
00:18:51,720 --> 00:18:53,160
A tiny little bit.
318
00:18:53,160 --> 00:18:55,240
You're a heretic! Heretic.
319
00:18:55,240 --> 00:18:56,400
You're a heretic.
320
00:18:56,400 --> 00:18:59,160
I'll tell you what Artusi
has to say to you.
321
00:18:59,160 --> 00:19:01,880
Artusi had a very nosy priest.
Right.
322
00:19:01,880 --> 00:19:03,520
Who lived near him. Right.
323
00:19:03,520 --> 00:19:05,720
And he called him Don Pomodoro.
324
00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:07,040
Don Pomodoro.
325
00:19:07,040 --> 00:19:08,280
Do you know why,
326
00:19:08,280 --> 00:19:10,840
because this priest got his nose
into everyone's business.
327
00:19:10,840 --> 00:19:12,360
Everyone business, every sauce.
328
00:19:12,360 --> 00:19:14,480
He's like the tomato,
he gets in everywhere.
329
00:19:14,480 --> 00:19:15,880
In everywhere, yeah.
330
00:19:15,880 --> 00:19:19,760
Look, I just put in literally
like, a spoonful.
331
00:19:20,800 --> 00:19:22,600
Maybe two.
332
00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:25,240
You should give some leftovers
to her and see if she notices?
333
00:19:25,240 --> 00:19:26,800
Senora Edda, you mean?
334
00:19:26,800 --> 00:19:28,800
Perfect.
335
00:19:28,800 --> 00:19:30,320
GLASSES CLINK
336
00:19:30,320 --> 00:19:33,400
To the success of your heretical
pasta sauce recipe.
337
00:19:35,400 --> 00:19:37,240
'While my sauce is cooking,
338
00:19:37,240 --> 00:19:40,280
'we've got time to take in the sunset
over Bologna.
339
00:19:40,280 --> 00:19:43,320
'That's if we can make it up
all the 280 steps.'
340
00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:45,640
I mean, what are you...?
Working up an appetite!
341
00:19:45,640 --> 00:19:48,080
That's what we're doing, working
up an appetite for you.
342
00:19:48,080 --> 00:19:49,640
HE PANTS
343
00:19:49,640 --> 00:19:51,360
Ci siamo. We arrive.
344
00:19:51,360 --> 00:19:53,160
Come.
345
00:19:53,160 --> 00:19:54,960
Oh, look at the moon!
346
00:19:56,760 --> 00:19:58,200
Andrew, look at the moon.
347
00:19:59,480 --> 00:20:01,000
It's so beautiful.
348
00:20:03,360 --> 00:20:06,760
Look, all the Centro Storico
is just red, isn't it?
349
00:20:14,600 --> 00:20:16,840
Now, we really like this in Bologna.
350
00:20:16,840 --> 00:20:21,720
To me, you know the best dish
is tagliatelle with ragu,
351
00:20:21,720 --> 00:20:23,240
it's the best dish ever.
352
00:20:23,240 --> 00:20:24,560
Can I take some cheese?
353
00:20:24,560 --> 00:20:27,240
Un po di parmigiano.
Cosi? How much?
354
00:20:27,240 --> 00:20:29,440
As much as you like.
I don't like too much.
355
00:20:29,440 --> 00:20:31,440
As much as you can afford,
usually they say.
356
00:20:39,160 --> 00:20:41,120
CUTLERY CLINKS AGAINST THE BOWL
357
00:20:42,240 --> 00:20:43,680
ANDREW LAUGHS
358
00:20:44,680 --> 00:20:46,720
Thank you, Artusi.
359
00:20:46,720 --> 00:20:48,720
Thank you, Edda.
I think the pasta is delicious.
360
00:20:48,720 --> 00:20:50,800
The pasta is delicious.
361
00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:54,240
I mean, if that was spaghetti,
Giorgio, look.
362
00:20:54,240 --> 00:20:56,840
All of that would fall off right.
That's exactly.
363
00:20:56,840 --> 00:20:59,080
But it's been caught in the knots.
That's exactly.
364
00:20:59,080 --> 00:21:02,400
The spread of the idea
of the spaghetti Bolognese
365
00:21:02,400 --> 00:21:06,600
with the meat sauce, is very much
attached to the immigrants.
366
00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:09,800
The immigrants left Italy
because there was not enough food.
367
00:21:09,800 --> 00:21:12,920
And so when they went to America,
you know, the only thing they,
368
00:21:12,920 --> 00:21:14,840
the only thing they says...
Oh.
369
00:21:14,840 --> 00:21:16,560
..there was plentiful of meat there,
370
00:21:16,560 --> 00:21:20,320
so they put as much meat as you can
with every dish of pasta.
371
00:21:20,320 --> 00:21:23,720
So what had been before been
the dish you'd eat once in a while
372
00:21:23,720 --> 00:21:26,280
when times are good
and you've got some meat became...
373
00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:28,320
Suddenly it was something that,
you know.
374
00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:29,360
Oh.
375
00:21:40,160 --> 00:21:41,360
Buongiorno.
376
00:21:41,360 --> 00:21:42,520
Buongiorno.
377
00:21:42,520 --> 00:21:44,000
Buongiorno.
378
00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:45,000
Buongiorno.
379
00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:46,840
GIORGIO SPEAKS IN ITALIAN
TO THE BARBER
380
00:21:46,840 --> 00:21:48,640
'There is nothing
like a good shave
381
00:21:48,640 --> 00:21:50,280
'and to freshen up in the morning.
382
00:21:50,280 --> 00:21:52,920
'And I know that Andrew
will love this place.'
383
00:21:52,920 --> 00:21:56,720
But, Giorgio, isn't this another
example of how in Bologna,
384
00:21:56,720 --> 00:22:01,680
people who do everyday occupations
somehow manage to do them
385
00:22:01,680 --> 00:22:04,760
in surroundings of such calm
and dignity and beauty,
386
00:22:04,760 --> 00:22:06,720
you know, like
the lady making the pasta,
387
00:22:06,720 --> 00:22:09,760
she's doing it in a shop
that's like a palace.
388
00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:15,960
'Beneath the calm and dignity
is a volatile political history.
389
00:22:15,960 --> 00:22:20,000
'It's not just the buildings that are
red in Bologna, the politics is too.
390
00:22:21,360 --> 00:22:25,440
'The centre of Bologna is
full of small, independent business.
391
00:22:25,440 --> 00:22:27,960
'They all thrive
because of the socialist policies
392
00:22:27,960 --> 00:22:32,200
'established by Bologna Communist
Party in the post war years.
393
00:22:32,200 --> 00:22:37,240
'Small traders pay much
lower business rates
than large corporations.
394
00:22:37,240 --> 00:22:41,680
'And it's this link to the Communist
Party that is in more recent times
395
00:22:41,680 --> 00:22:46,400
'the reason for Bologna's third
nickname, la Rossa, the Red.'
396
00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,320
Your face will feel
so good all day you know.
397
00:22:49,320 --> 00:22:50,560
Grazie.
398
00:22:50,560 --> 00:22:52,840
Grazie. Arrivederci.
399
00:22:52,840 --> 00:22:56,120
Buona giornata.
400
00:22:56,120 --> 00:23:00,520
'Bologna's reputation for
political militancy is not limited
401
00:23:00,520 --> 00:23:03,840
'to the post-war Communist years.
402
00:23:03,840 --> 00:23:09,280
'As far back as 1506,
Bologna saw popular uprising
against the ruling classes,
403
00:23:09,280 --> 00:23:12,960
'which led to the city being
annexed by the Papal State.
404
00:23:14,520 --> 00:23:17,480
'The Bolognese spirit
of rebellion rose again
405
00:23:17,480 --> 00:23:19,680
'during the Second World War.
406
00:23:19,680 --> 00:23:22,280
'Bologna was a centre
for the Resistance.
407
00:23:22,280 --> 00:23:26,760
'Over 1,800 Resistance fighters
were shot here by the Nazis.
408
00:23:31,440 --> 00:23:34,880
'Bologna la Rossa has also
left an artistic legacy.
409
00:23:34,880 --> 00:23:37,720
'The 20th century Bolognese artist,
Giorgio Morandi,
410
00:23:37,720 --> 00:23:41,640
'spent his career paying homage
to humble, everyday objects,
411
00:23:41,640 --> 00:23:44,880
'right up until his death in 1964.
412
00:23:44,880 --> 00:23:50,720
'Day after day, he sat in this
studio rearranging and painting
these pots.
413
00:23:50,720 --> 00:23:54,800
'He's revered in Bologna,
his studio's preserved as a shrine,
414
00:23:54,800 --> 00:23:59,080
'and his life work
is displayed in this new museum.'
415
00:23:59,080 --> 00:24:01,760
It's a painting
of apparently almost nothing.
416
00:24:01,760 --> 00:24:05,280
There is this sort of
a flavour of old Italy,
417
00:24:05,280 --> 00:24:08,720
it reminds me of, like,
grandparents keeping things
418
00:24:08,720 --> 00:24:12,920
and never throwing away anything
and giving a personality
419
00:24:12,920 --> 00:24:16,360
to each of the objects
that means something to them.
420
00:24:16,360 --> 00:24:18,360
You hardly ever get in Morandi
421
00:24:18,360 --> 00:24:22,480
anything that looks
like...luxury colour,
422
00:24:22,480 --> 00:24:24,640
this is not luxury,
this is simplicity.
423
00:24:24,640 --> 00:24:26,480
If you think about it,
424
00:24:26,480 --> 00:24:28,600
you have all those
colours in the front of you.
425
00:24:28,600 --> 00:24:31,200
It's like the ingredients,
you get a lot of ingredients,
426
00:24:31,200 --> 00:24:34,000
and most chefs just put them
all in the dish, like, you know,
427
00:24:34,000 --> 00:24:40,920
it takes of strength and
self-assertiveness to make sure
428
00:24:40,920 --> 00:24:44,080
that you only pick the right one
that will work for you.
429
00:24:44,080 --> 00:24:46,240
I think that's part
of his cleverness as an artist,
430
00:24:46,240 --> 00:24:50,480
he is very much painting during
the rise of global capitalism.
Right.
431
00:24:50,480 --> 00:24:53,560
And if you wanted to find his
sort of opposite in world art,
432
00:24:53,560 --> 00:24:55,800
it would be Andy Warhol.
That's right.
433
00:24:55,800 --> 00:24:58,360
Who's painting the ordinary objects
of American life,
434
00:24:58,360 --> 00:25:00,440
but it's Heinz tomatoes and it's...
435
00:25:00,440 --> 00:25:03,640
Brand names.
Brand names. Brillo boxes.
436
00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:06,520
I mean, maybe that's
Bologna la Rossa.
437
00:25:06,520 --> 00:25:08,960
Maybe this is
a kind of counterblast,
438
00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:13,480
because he's painting these pictures
up until, well, he dies in 1964.
439
00:25:13,480 --> 00:25:16,160
So maybe he's the sort of
counterblast to Warhol.
440
00:25:19,040 --> 00:25:22,720
'For me, Bologna definitely lives up
to its three nicknames,
441
00:25:22,720 --> 00:25:26,400
'la dotta, la grassa and la rossa.
442
00:25:26,400 --> 00:25:28,840
'And they're all intricately
intertwined,
443
00:25:28,840 --> 00:25:32,560
'a fascinating marriage
of food, culture and politics.'
444
00:25:34,800 --> 00:25:38,600
It's quite a comfortable,
very bourgeois town
445
00:25:38,600 --> 00:25:41,240
that you'd think maybe had
forgotten its socialist past,
446
00:25:41,240 --> 00:25:44,080
but it's still there, don't you
think? I think so.
447
00:25:44,080 --> 00:25:49,920
JAUNTY ACOUSTIC GUITAR MUSIC
448
00:25:49,920 --> 00:25:52,000
'So it's goodbye to Bologna.
449
00:25:52,000 --> 00:25:55,240
'Now we're off to explore
the rest of Emilia-Romagna.'
450
00:25:55,240 --> 00:25:57,800
CAR ENGINE ROARS
451
00:25:57,800 --> 00:25:59,480
'This is the Po Valley.
452
00:25:59,480 --> 00:26:03,000
'This fertile land has nourished
the region's rich history
453
00:26:03,000 --> 00:26:04,720
'and fed the local culture,
454
00:26:04,720 --> 00:26:07,240
'both literally and metaphorically.
455
00:26:07,240 --> 00:26:11,040
'The beautiful River Po
is the artery of Emilia-Romagna.
456
00:26:11,040 --> 00:26:15,560
'It has painted the region
in a palette of swirling fog,
457
00:26:15,560 --> 00:26:19,320
'deep, dark soil
and lush, arable farmland.
458
00:26:19,320 --> 00:26:22,440
'Many of the rich historical
traditions of this region
459
00:26:22,440 --> 00:26:24,520
'stems from these waters.
460
00:26:24,520 --> 00:26:29,240
'This river is also the source
of my best memory of Emilia-Romagna.'
461
00:26:29,240 --> 00:26:32,800
They tamed the land
to grow what they want,
462
00:26:32,800 --> 00:26:34,800
and here they even tamed the sea.
463
00:26:35,960 --> 00:26:39,120
This is, like, something
very special about it.
464
00:26:41,200 --> 00:26:45,400
'I wanted to show Andrew one of the
great pastimes of the Po Valley,
465
00:26:45,400 --> 00:26:47,880
'with the land
and the river as a backdrop.'
466
00:26:47,880 --> 00:26:49,880
Umberto! Oi?
467
00:26:51,800 --> 00:26:54,440
'The padellone is a traditional
way of fishing,
468
00:26:54,440 --> 00:26:57,800
'where friends can get together
to share in the peace
469
00:26:57,800 --> 00:27:01,040
'and tranquillity of this land,
and get a meal too.'
470
00:27:01,040 --> 00:27:04,840
Buona sera! These are your soci?
471
00:27:08,840 --> 00:27:11,040
What's soci mean?
472
00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:15,480
Soci is because they all
own this hut together.
473
00:27:15,480 --> 00:27:17,240
It's like going to the bar, isn't it?
474
00:27:17,240 --> 00:27:19,720
But it's a bit more secluded,
it's more calm.
475
00:27:19,720 --> 00:27:21,920
It's like the golf club
except with fish.
476
00:27:32,160 --> 00:27:35,440
But what I really want to know,
I want to know how it works.
477
00:27:35,440 --> 00:27:38,240
How it works. If you push that one,
the trick is done.
478
00:27:38,240 --> 00:27:40,240
SPEAKS IN ITALIAN
479
00:27:40,240 --> 00:27:43,120
Press?
480
00:27:43,120 --> 00:27:46,360
Press, OK.
481
00:27:46,360 --> 00:27:47,960
Oh, it's coming up.
482
00:27:47,960 --> 00:27:51,800
Look at that! Look how big it is.
483
00:27:51,800 --> 00:27:53,440
That is fabulous, look at that!
484
00:27:54,600 --> 00:27:57,680
Oh, look at the crab,
can you see the crab?
485
00:27:57,680 --> 00:28:00,760
Ohhh, that's what we're going to eat.
486
00:28:02,400 --> 00:28:04,200
These are delicious!
487
00:28:05,760 --> 00:28:09,320
'The name "padellone" refers
the shape of the nets,
488
00:28:09,320 --> 00:28:13,800
'which resemble the giant pan
the fishermen fry their catch in.'
489
00:28:13,800 --> 00:28:17,200
This is baby red mullet.
They're all different, you see.
490
00:28:17,200 --> 00:28:19,040
So you deep-fry these little chaps?
491
00:28:19,040 --> 00:28:23,120
That's it, you put a little bit of
flour and you fry it, that's it.
492
00:28:23,120 --> 00:28:26,800
It's not a very difficult
kind of fishing, I have to say.
493
00:28:26,800 --> 00:28:31,000
I think it's Italian people
spending time together,
494
00:28:31,000 --> 00:28:33,440
it's about the drink and the food.
495
00:28:33,440 --> 00:28:35,920
The food always
brings them together.
496
00:28:35,920 --> 00:28:38,160
JAUNTY ACCORDION MUSIC PLAYS
497
00:28:45,880 --> 00:28:48,640
'For honest working men,
like Umberto and Banana,
498
00:28:48,640 --> 00:28:54,200
'this pause from life is typical of
Emilia-Romagna, rooted in the place.'
499
00:28:54,200 --> 00:28:57,800
Semolino and a little bit
of double zero flour, OK.
500
00:28:57,800 --> 00:28:59,280
So one sticks to it,
501
00:28:59,280 --> 00:29:02,480
the other one's going make it
really, really crispy.
502
00:29:02,480 --> 00:29:04,560
Now the only place
they jump is in the pot.
503
00:29:06,840 --> 00:29:08,720
How long do they take to cook,
Giorgio?
504
00:29:08,720 --> 00:29:12,280
Very, very fast, they're going to
cook in about maybe one minute.
505
00:29:12,280 --> 00:29:13,520
Very good.
506
00:29:15,280 --> 00:29:16,960
ALL LAUGH
507
00:29:16,960 --> 00:29:18,600
Attenzioni.
508
00:29:20,600 --> 00:29:23,200
You see, Andrew, I really wanted you
to come and see this,
509
00:29:23,200 --> 00:29:24,720
because this is really,
510
00:29:24,720 --> 00:29:29,760
when we're talking about richness
of this land, culture.
511
00:29:29,760 --> 00:29:34,720
And the real power of this land
is really all these people
512
00:29:34,720 --> 00:29:39,080
and on this river
that has brought down
for thousand and thousand of years,
513
00:29:39,080 --> 00:29:41,160
this goodness from the Alps.
514
00:29:41,160 --> 00:29:44,800
And it's brought it down to them,
and they've been here every day
515
00:29:44,800 --> 00:29:48,440
taking a little bit,
with respect and with love.
516
00:29:48,440 --> 00:29:51,080
And, you know, look at the variety,
the colour, the beauty
517
00:29:51,080 --> 00:29:52,320
and the abundance.
518
00:29:52,320 --> 00:29:54,720
This is what it's
all about, Emilia-Romagna.
519
00:29:54,720 --> 00:29:56,720
MEN CHAT IN ITALIAN
520
00:29:56,720 --> 00:29:59,600
Andrew, per noi queste sono como
le patatine,
521
00:29:59,600 --> 00:30:03,680
chips! This is like, like fried
chips. Like fried chips!
522
00:30:03,680 --> 00:30:06,000
THEY LAUGH
523
00:30:10,640 --> 00:30:12,480
On the padellone, there's no stress,
so...
524
00:30:18,560 --> 00:30:23,480
It's the culture that, you know,
this is just a little step towards
freedom, isn't it?
525
00:30:26,320 --> 00:30:29,560
THEY TOAST AND LAUGH
526
00:30:29,560 --> 00:30:31,800
The brindisi are getting more
chaotic!
527
00:30:55,040 --> 00:30:57,480
'After a strong coffee,
we're back on the road
528
00:30:57,480 --> 00:31:01,200
'and heading to the historical
city of Ferrara.'
529
00:31:01,200 --> 00:31:04,200
I'm definitely slightly
the worse for wear.
530
00:31:04,200 --> 00:31:07,120
These brindisi. That's fantastic.
531
00:31:07,120 --> 00:31:08,080
Brindisi!
532
00:31:08,080 --> 00:31:10,880
"Facciamo un brindisi!"
533
00:31:17,400 --> 00:31:20,840
'The city of Ferrara was
built on the banks of the Po.
534
00:31:20,840 --> 00:31:23,920
'It was the stronghold of the Este
dynasty who ruled here
535
00:31:23,920 --> 00:31:28,240
'for over 300 years until the end of
the 16th century.
536
00:31:28,240 --> 00:31:32,480
'Like many dynasties, the Este used
arts and architecture
537
00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:34,920
'to express their power and wealth.'
538
00:31:36,640 --> 00:31:40,520
I wanted you to see this arch,
Giorgio, that was designed by
Alberti,
539
00:31:40,520 --> 00:31:44,440
the father of
Renaissance architecture. Yeah?
540
00:31:44,440 --> 00:31:48,280
And on the top is
a statue of Nicolo III d'Este.
541
00:31:48,280 --> 00:31:51,760
GIORGIO SINGS
542
00:31:58,440 --> 00:32:02,040
I feel like I'm taking a reluctant
eight-year-old on a tour
543
00:32:02,040 --> 00:32:04,560
round the architectural
delights of Ferrara. Si, yes.
544
00:32:04,560 --> 00:32:06,760
I'll have to find something
better for you, eh?
545
00:32:06,760 --> 00:32:07,960
It's all so nice and fresh.
546
00:32:07,960 --> 00:32:10,720
'Today, Ferrara is a bustling
university town,
547
00:32:10,720 --> 00:32:13,720
'full of students and bicycles.
548
00:32:13,720 --> 00:32:19,880
'The university was established
by Alberto V of the Este in 1391.
549
00:32:19,880 --> 00:32:23,000
'The Este invited artists,
architects and scholars
550
00:32:23,000 --> 00:32:24,640
'from all over Europe.
551
00:32:24,640 --> 00:32:28,400
'Jewish bankers, persecuted
elsewhere, were welcomed here -
552
00:32:28,400 --> 00:32:31,520
'in fact, the doors were flung open
to all who could contribute
553
00:32:31,520 --> 00:32:34,600
'to making Ferrara powerful
and successful.'
554
00:32:36,840 --> 00:32:40,280
If you came from anywhere
else in Italy and you arrived here,
555
00:32:40,280 --> 00:32:42,720
you'd be like stumbling
out of the Dark Ages
556
00:32:42,720 --> 00:32:46,320
into this new Renaissance idea of
what is a city,
557
00:32:46,320 --> 00:32:48,400
you know, these wide streets.
558
00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:53,080
This was really the first emphatic
expression of a very particular
Renaissance idea
559
00:32:53,080 --> 00:32:56,440
which was...a planned town.
560
00:32:56,440 --> 00:32:58,560
You know, town planning.
561
00:32:58,560 --> 00:33:02,080
The medieval town just
grows like an organism,
562
00:33:02,080 --> 00:33:05,040
and you end up with this labyrinth,
where poor lives next to rich.
563
00:33:05,040 --> 00:33:06,480
Everything's a kind of chaos.
564
00:33:06,480 --> 00:33:08,160
Here in Ferrara, for the first time,
565
00:33:08,160 --> 00:33:11,400
the Este said, "No! We're not going
to have that kind of city any more.
566
00:33:11,400 --> 00:33:16,040
"We're going to have a planned
city - wide streets, but only for
the rich."
567
00:33:16,040 --> 00:33:18,440
It's just lined with
palaces in all directions
568
00:33:18,440 --> 00:33:22,760
and at the centre of it all,
this thumping great expression of
Este power,
569
00:33:22,760 --> 00:33:24,520
the Palazzo dei Diamanti,
570
00:33:24,520 --> 00:33:30,040
with these amazing kind of sharp
diamonds of stone all over it,
571
00:33:30,040 --> 00:33:32,680
studded like a kind of piece
of chain mail.
572
00:33:32,680 --> 00:33:35,560
I mean, there's nothing else like
it in Renaissance architecture,
573
00:33:35,560 --> 00:33:39,160
not quite like this. Right. It looks
very modern, isn't it, somehow?
574
00:33:39,160 --> 00:33:41,960
Yeah, I think it is - fascist
architects looked at this building
575
00:33:41,960 --> 00:33:44,120
when they were designing
in the '30s and '40s.
576
00:33:44,120 --> 00:33:47,080
They were looking at this
kind of symmetry,
this architecture of power.
577
00:33:47,080 --> 00:33:49,120
I think it's very beautiful,
578
00:33:49,120 --> 00:33:52,400
but I also think there's something
slightly sinister about it.
579
00:33:52,400 --> 00:33:55,440
It's telling you
if you're one of the Ferrarese poor,
580
00:33:55,440 --> 00:33:57,960
"Don't mess with us
or we'll come down on you like a..."
581
00:33:57,960 --> 00:34:00,280
The fist will squash you?
Yeah, yeah, absolutely.
582
00:34:02,360 --> 00:34:05,440
'In their heyday, the Este
were as dominant as the Medici
583
00:34:05,440 --> 00:34:08,440
'and even married into other
powerful dynasties,
584
00:34:08,440 --> 00:34:11,720
'including a notorious union with
Lucrezia Borgia.
585
00:34:11,720 --> 00:34:16,320
'But in 1598, with no heir to
continue the line,
586
00:34:16,320 --> 00:34:19,240
'Ferrara was claimed
by the Papal States.
587
00:34:19,240 --> 00:34:22,440
'Today the Este dynasty is
largely forgotten.'
588
00:34:23,960 --> 00:34:27,920
Because the Este lost the power
battle, all of their buildings
589
00:34:27,920 --> 00:34:31,600
got stripped of their possessions,
got taken to other places,
590
00:34:31,600 --> 00:34:35,000
so what we're left with is this
beautiful, fantastic,
591
00:34:35,000 --> 00:34:38,480
but rather melancholy stage set -
it's like the set of a play
592
00:34:38,480 --> 00:34:39,800
but all the actors have gone.
593
00:34:51,240 --> 00:34:54,360
'We are driving further
west along the Po Valley to Modena.
594
00:34:57,400 --> 00:35:00,920
'This city is home to
two of my favourite things,
595
00:35:00,920 --> 00:35:04,080
'balsamic vinegar and fast cars.
596
00:35:06,720 --> 00:35:10,600
'But it's also home to a truly
heart-stopping work of art -
597
00:35:10,600 --> 00:35:14,840
'one that's rooted in the soil
and the blood of this region.'
598
00:35:16,440 --> 00:35:18,320
I'm going to tell you a story.
599
00:35:18,320 --> 00:35:20,960
I'm going to give you a role in the
story as well, if you don't mind?
600
00:35:20,960 --> 00:35:22,720
I've got a role in the story? Yeah.
601
00:35:22,720 --> 00:35:26,840
So you have to imagine that
it's 1480,
602
00:35:26,840 --> 00:35:29,840
you've done something terrible,
603
00:35:29,840 --> 00:35:32,800
maybe you've tried to poison
the Duke of the Este Dynasty,
604
00:35:32,800 --> 00:35:35,680
but you've been caught,
and you've been sentenced to death.
605
00:35:35,680 --> 00:35:37,600
Now they're taking
you down this street.
606
00:35:37,600 --> 00:35:40,880
Right. When you get to the end of the
street, they're going to rip pieces
607
00:35:40,880 --> 00:35:43,880
of your flesh off with red hot
pincers, they're going to hang you
608
00:35:43,880 --> 00:35:45,640
by the neck until you're dead.
Right.
609
00:35:45,640 --> 00:35:47,800
But you've got some friends with you
610
00:35:47,800 --> 00:35:51,480
and they are the members of the
local confraternity of
the good death,
611
00:35:51,480 --> 00:35:54,280
and it's their job to make
sure that you repent before you die.
612
00:35:54,280 --> 00:35:56,520
This is their church,
they stop you here,
613
00:35:56,520 --> 00:36:00,360
and they bring you in because
they want you to see one last thing.
614
00:36:00,360 --> 00:36:02,800
Before I die? Before you die.
615
00:36:02,800 --> 00:36:04,840
I would like to have
a risotto before I die.
616
00:36:04,840 --> 00:36:07,880
Maybe you've had your last wish
already, so assume you've
had your risotto.
617
00:36:11,280 --> 00:36:15,400
This object is going to
be the last thing
618
00:36:15,400 --> 00:36:18,920
that you should hold in your mind's
eye if you want to save your soul.
619
00:36:29,600 --> 00:36:35,360
It was created in 1477 by an artist
called Guido Mazzoni.
620
00:36:35,360 --> 00:36:36,400
What is it made of?
621
00:36:36,400 --> 00:36:39,560
It's made of terracotta. No!
622
00:36:39,560 --> 00:36:43,200
Yeah, it's made of the same
earth of Emilia-Romagna
623
00:36:43,200 --> 00:36:47,280
from which all the things that
we've been eating grow.
624
00:36:47,280 --> 00:36:52,560
So the idea behind the sculpture is
that you are going to your death
625
00:36:52,560 --> 00:36:55,760
and I, as a member of the company
of the good death,
626
00:36:55,760 --> 00:36:58,280
want you to have as good
a death as possible.
627
00:36:58,280 --> 00:37:03,120
And that if you look as Christ's
dead figure
628
00:37:03,120 --> 00:37:07,680
lying while Mary the Madonna
grieves over him,
629
00:37:07,680 --> 00:37:11,840
while Mary Magdalene twists her
face into this scream of anguish,
630
00:37:11,840 --> 00:37:16,680
somehow this emotion will transmit
from that sculpture into you,
631
00:37:16,680 --> 00:37:20,200
and that you will feel these
things in your heart...
632
00:37:20,200 --> 00:37:22,840
and you will be moved to turn to
the priest
633
00:37:22,840 --> 00:37:26,480
who accompanies you on
the scaffold, you will confess.
634
00:37:26,480 --> 00:37:28,080
And maybe, just maybe,
635
00:37:28,080 --> 00:37:30,720
this sculpture may help to
save your soul.
636
00:37:42,520 --> 00:37:46,560
I think it does achieve what it set
out for, doesn't it?
637
00:37:48,400 --> 00:37:52,880
'These sculptures are refined
and sophisticated,
638
00:37:52,880 --> 00:37:55,200
'yet unashamedly proud of their
roots,
639
00:37:55,200 --> 00:38:01,000
'having grown out of the humblest
of materials - the Emilia-Romagna
clay itself.'
640
00:38:02,200 --> 00:38:04,440
Andiamo. Andiamo.
641
00:38:07,200 --> 00:38:09,400
Well,
you can step out of character now.
642
00:38:15,240 --> 00:38:17,160
'What draws me most to this region
643
00:38:17,160 --> 00:38:20,080
'is the beautiful produce that
grows out of this soil.
644
00:38:25,160 --> 00:38:29,040
'For 25 years, I've been buying
balsamic vinegar tradizionale
645
00:38:29,040 --> 00:38:30,960
'from the Aggazzotti family,
646
00:38:30,960 --> 00:38:34,720
'but until now, I've never
met my supplier, Ettore Aggazzotti.'
647
00:38:44,480 --> 00:38:47,920
This is the place where it
all happens.
648
00:38:47,920 --> 00:38:50,000
The produce transforms itself
649
00:38:50,000 --> 00:38:55,360
and becomes balsamic vinegar
tradizionale.
650
00:38:55,360 --> 00:38:57,720
The real deal. The real deal.
651
00:38:57,720 --> 00:39:01,920
'The Aggazzotti family has been
making vinegar since 1714.
652
00:39:01,920 --> 00:39:05,600
'The family has perfected the art
of creating a symphony of flavour
653
00:39:05,600 --> 00:39:08,240
'out of the most
modest of ingredients.
654
00:39:08,240 --> 00:39:11,320
'Grapes, patience and a colony
of bacteria
655
00:39:11,320 --> 00:39:13,880
that vinegar producers call
"the mother".'
656
00:39:19,600 --> 00:39:21,800
The mother is a colony of bacteria.
657
00:39:24,760 --> 00:39:26,960
They keep on reforming itself.
658
00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:29,400
Right, so what does the mother do to
this liquid?
659
00:39:29,400 --> 00:39:31,120
The natural sugar that there
is inside,
660
00:39:31,120 --> 00:39:33,080
the mother transform
the sugar into vinegar.
661
00:39:33,080 --> 00:39:36,200
Bacteria does that by sort of
eating it. That's right.
662
00:39:36,200 --> 00:39:40,440
So the mother bacteria colony that
you still use in every batch...
663
00:39:40,440 --> 00:39:41,560
Every years.
664
00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:43,400
..was actually first sort of
created
665
00:39:43,400 --> 00:39:46,240
and it's still the same
bacteria family that's doing it?
666
00:39:46,240 --> 00:39:50,880
Exactly, and this is... That's
exactly what the value would be.
667
00:39:50,880 --> 00:39:54,160
The value of the acetaia
is on the value of the mother.
668
00:39:54,160 --> 00:39:56,280
If you start tomorrow, you're going
to have to wait
669
00:39:56,280 --> 00:39:57,800
quite a long time before... Right.
670
00:39:59,360 --> 00:40:03,320
'Balsamic vinegar is often swept
aside as a simple condiment
671
00:40:03,320 --> 00:40:06,760
'that you use to dip your bread in
or throw over a salad.
672
00:40:06,760 --> 00:40:12,440
'But balsamic vinegar tradizionale
is very different to normal
balsamic vinegar.
673
00:40:12,440 --> 00:40:18,920
'And that's why this tiny bottle of
25-year-old vinegar costs 250 euros.'
674
00:40:18,920 --> 00:40:23,400
The aging factor, I think, is
a typical expression of this land -
675
00:40:23,400 --> 00:40:28,680
this patience, this idea of, "I can
wait to have something fantastic."
676
00:40:39,400 --> 00:40:43,720
Hmm, that is fantastic,
the sweet with the salt,
677
00:40:43,720 --> 00:40:45,120
it's even more intense.
678
00:40:45,120 --> 00:40:49,640
It takes 25 years to get the balsamic
out of that barrel, doesn't it?
679
00:40:49,640 --> 00:40:52,440
After 25 years, we actually managed
to meet each other.
680
00:40:52,440 --> 00:40:56,960
Well, here's to both of you -
Ettore, Giorgio. Salute!
681
00:40:56,960 --> 00:40:59,960
Brindiamo. Facciamo un brindisi!
682
00:40:59,960 --> 00:41:02,480
'This trip to Modena is
a dream for me.
683
00:41:02,480 --> 00:41:07,360
'First I get to meet Ettore and now
I get to satisfy my second love,
684
00:41:07,360 --> 00:41:08,720
'fast cars.
685
00:41:12,920 --> 00:41:15,480
'Modena is the home to Enzo Ferrari,
686
00:41:15,480 --> 00:41:19,840
'and we can't come here without going
to visit the new Ferrari museum,
687
00:41:19,840 --> 00:41:22,360
'a testament to his life's work.
688
00:41:22,360 --> 00:41:26,360
'He was obsessed with racing since
childhood, and he turned his dream
689
00:41:26,360 --> 00:41:29,840
'into a quest to build the ultimate
racing machine.
690
00:41:29,840 --> 00:41:32,240
'Today, Ferrari is famous worldwide.
691
00:41:34,360 --> 00:41:38,120
'Enzo's original workshop and
office, founded here in 1929,
692
00:41:38,120 --> 00:41:39,600
'is still standing,
693
00:41:39,600 --> 00:41:43,840
'sheltered by this spectacular
museum designed by architect Jan
Kaplicky.
694
00:41:45,680 --> 00:41:49,320
'It's a perfect demonstration of how
tradition meets modernity
695
00:41:49,320 --> 00:41:52,000
'and technology in this region.'
696
00:41:52,000 --> 00:41:54,800
It's all white, it's like an art
gallery, the cars are on plinths.
697
00:41:54,800 --> 00:41:56,560
So beautiful, aren't they?
698
00:41:56,560 --> 00:41:59,480
I think cars deserve to be
looked at in terms of, you know...
699
00:41:59,480 --> 00:42:02,480
Especially these cars,
look at that beautiful shape...
700
00:42:02,480 --> 00:42:03,920
an aeroplane, almost.
701
00:42:03,920 --> 00:42:08,040
Well, it's funny, I mean we're
looking at these cars as if they're
sculptures,
702
00:42:08,040 --> 00:42:10,560
but they do actually
look like sculptures of the 1940s.
703
00:42:10,560 --> 00:42:12,880
If you think of Henry Moore
if you think of Arc... Yes.
704
00:42:12,880 --> 00:42:15,120
That sort of biomorphic
that was in the air,
705
00:42:15,120 --> 00:42:17,560
so even the cars are like that.
706
00:42:17,560 --> 00:42:20,400
Even if you're ugly,
you look good on this one.
707
00:42:20,400 --> 00:42:24,080
Ferrari seems to me to be the man
who almost literally
708
00:42:24,080 --> 00:42:26,840
gives Italy the engine to
drive into the future.
709
00:42:29,160 --> 00:42:34,560
'Emilia-Romagna has also given the
world Ducati, Maserati, Lamborghini.
710
00:42:34,560 --> 00:42:37,640
'What a roll call for one fairly
small region.'
711
00:42:39,080 --> 00:42:43,560
This real modern aesthetic
and this culture of design.
712
00:42:43,560 --> 00:42:46,000
Why do you think it
flourished in Northern Italy?
713
00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:48,240
I think it's the passion
and the drive.
714
00:42:48,240 --> 00:42:51,480
You know, they want to show everybody
they could do something
715
00:42:51,480 --> 00:42:54,600
really great, they dream about being.
716
00:42:54,600 --> 00:42:58,160
That's what Enzo Ferrari used to
say, "I dream about being Ferrari,
717
00:42:58,160 --> 00:43:03,080
"I dreamt to be Ferrari and I become
Ferrari, you know, I dreamt it."
718
00:43:03,080 --> 00:43:06,880
Can you imagine how strong he must
have been feeling to dream about it?
719
00:43:06,880 --> 00:43:10,800
No more Medici, no more... No more
Medici, no more Este, no more that!
720
00:43:10,800 --> 00:43:13,640
They took the mantle on,
and they took it on through
721
00:43:13,640 --> 00:43:17,680
showing something that they could do.
So they went forwards with that.
722
00:43:17,680 --> 00:43:19,280
This is so important.
723
00:43:23,360 --> 00:43:26,200
'But these cars weren't just
made to be looked at,
724
00:43:26,200 --> 00:43:27,840
'they were designed to be driven.
725
00:43:30,040 --> 00:43:34,280
'Every aspect of these cars is
the product of craftsmanship.
726
00:43:34,280 --> 00:43:38,200
'Even today, every engine is signed
by the mechanic who put it together.'
727
00:43:41,480 --> 00:43:45,680
I'm crying, it was so good!
Oh, that was so good!
728
00:43:45,680 --> 00:43:47,120
HE LAUGHS
729
00:43:47,120 --> 00:43:48,560
You enjoyed it?
730
00:43:48,560 --> 00:43:50,280
Oh, yes, Giorgio, I enjoyed it(!)
731
00:43:50,280 --> 00:43:52,200
GIORGIO LAUGHS
732
00:43:52,200 --> 00:43:53,960
I feel my blood is going round!
733
00:44:01,800 --> 00:44:06,760
'Finally, we arrive in Parma,
our last stop in Emilia-Romagna.
734
00:44:06,760 --> 00:44:10,280
'This town is famous for the
highest-quality delicacies -
735
00:44:10,280 --> 00:44:12,720
'Parma ham, Parmesan cheese.
736
00:44:12,720 --> 00:44:15,960
'And quality control has become
a business, too.
737
00:44:15,960 --> 00:44:20,240
'The EU has based its Food Standards
Agency in this tiny town.'
738
00:44:20,240 --> 00:44:23,360
Baptistry, Archbishops' Palace,
Cathedral.
739
00:44:23,360 --> 00:44:26,160
Beautiful Romanesque cathedral.
740
00:44:26,160 --> 00:44:28,600
'It's not just the food
that's world class.'
741
00:44:28,600 --> 00:44:32,640
Giorgio, after you.
One of the world's great buildings.
742
00:44:34,280 --> 00:44:37,520
And how cool is it?! It's
like instant air conditioning,
743
00:44:37,520 --> 00:44:40,520
you come out of 40 degrees heat
and here, you can relax,
744
00:44:40,520 --> 00:44:42,440
you can enjoy, you can see.
745
00:44:42,440 --> 00:44:46,440
'Here in Parma's cathedral is
one of the most innovative,
746
00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:49,480
'awe-inspiring works of art
of the whole Renaissance.'
747
00:44:50,720 --> 00:44:54,200
So in the 1520s, Antonio Allegri,
748
00:44:54,200 --> 00:44:59,640
detto il Correggio was commissioned
to paint the dome of the cathedral.
749
00:45:04,640 --> 00:45:08,760
Right now, you look up to the dome.
750
00:45:08,760 --> 00:45:11,440
Wow!
751
00:45:11,440 --> 00:45:14,440
And it's showing us
the Assumption of the Virgin Mary,
752
00:45:14,440 --> 00:45:18,640
she's being whooshed
into heaven after her death.
753
00:45:18,640 --> 00:45:22,400
And she's going to meet her son,
Jesus Christ, in heaven.
754
00:45:25,480 --> 00:45:31,240
It's so uplifting, isn't it?
it goes like whoosh. Like a spiral.
755
00:45:31,240 --> 00:45:32,960
Unbelievable.
756
00:45:37,040 --> 00:45:39,680
It's a painting that's meant
to make you feel
757
00:45:39,680 --> 00:45:42,080
as if you are being whirled up
to heaven.
758
00:45:42,080 --> 00:45:46,600
It does. It does. It really
feels like it's lifting you up.
759
00:45:46,600 --> 00:45:50,440
Levitation. But what's amazing
about this is that it's ten years
760
00:45:50,440 --> 00:45:54,480
after Michelangelo has finished
the Sistine Chapel.
761
00:45:54,480 --> 00:45:56,320
And the people in Parma think,
762
00:45:56,320 --> 00:45:58,960
"We're not going to be outdone
by those Romans."
763
00:45:58,960 --> 00:46:01,000
So what they do,
this is not a ceiling.
764
00:46:01,000 --> 00:46:04,440
This is not a ceiling, this a dome.
765
00:46:04,440 --> 00:46:06,680
In the past, if they painted a dome,
766
00:46:06,680 --> 00:46:09,720
they just painted it blue
with gold stars - heaven.
767
00:46:09,720 --> 00:46:12,360
Correggio set himself the challenge
768
00:46:12,360 --> 00:46:15,320
to paint the Madonna
entering heaven.
769
00:46:15,320 --> 00:46:18,040
Was he really appreciated for this?
Did people love it?
770
00:46:18,040 --> 00:46:20,120
Well, this is the terrible paradox.
771
00:46:20,120 --> 00:46:23,920
Titian, supposedly the greatest
painter in the history of
painting...
772
00:46:23,920 --> 00:46:24,960
Right.
773
00:46:24,960 --> 00:46:27,880
..he heard about this
and he looked at it and said,
774
00:46:27,880 --> 00:46:33,520
"This is incredible. You couldn't
pay Correggio enough for this.
775
00:46:33,520 --> 00:46:37,640
"In fact, if you turned that dome
upside-down and made it into a bowl,
776
00:46:37,640 --> 00:46:40,600
"and filled it with gold,
it wouldn't be enough money."
777
00:46:43,120 --> 00:46:46,480
But the tragedy of it is
that the patron,
778
00:46:46,480 --> 00:46:50,960
the Canon of the Cathedral, who was
obviously a very conservative man,
779
00:46:50,960 --> 00:46:56,040
he simply said, "It looks like
a stew of frog's legs."
780
00:46:56,040 --> 00:46:57,080
He didn't?
781
00:46:57,080 --> 00:47:01,320
That was his judgment, and
Correggio finished it in 1530,
782
00:47:01,320 --> 00:47:03,760
it took him eight years
from start to end,
783
00:47:03,760 --> 00:47:07,200
he never got another
commission in Parma. No!
784
00:47:07,200 --> 00:47:11,880
So it was like, "Thank you very much
but no thank you." No way.
785
00:47:13,080 --> 00:47:16,560
Bellissima. Grazie, andiamo.
786
00:47:16,560 --> 00:47:18,240
Prego, prego.
787
00:47:22,640 --> 00:47:24,520
'Just a little way out of Parma
788
00:47:24,520 --> 00:47:28,280
'is my great friend
Massimo Spigaroli's farm.
789
00:47:28,280 --> 00:47:30,600
'Parma is famous for its dried ham
790
00:47:30,600 --> 00:47:34,400
'and I think Massimo's Culatello
di Zibello is definitely
791
00:47:34,400 --> 00:47:36,320
'some of the best in the world.
792
00:47:36,320 --> 00:47:38,680
'Culatello is a type of Parma ham
793
00:47:38,680 --> 00:47:41,600
'only made with the finest cut
of pork rump.'
794
00:47:41,600 --> 00:47:43,920
So, Massimo, what do we use?
795
00:47:43,920 --> 00:47:46,760
It's very, very simple.
Salt, pepper...
796
00:47:46,760 --> 00:47:48,000
Salt and pepper.
797
00:47:48,000 --> 00:47:53,320
..garlic, red wine Fontana,
territorio, the bladder.
798
00:47:53,320 --> 00:47:57,160
Pig's bladder.
Pig's bladder, meat pig.
799
00:47:57,160 --> 00:48:03,480
Meat from the pig,
which is a rump, it's the culatello.
800
00:48:03,480 --> 00:48:08,920
What makes this recipe is the fog,
is the silent.
801
00:48:08,920 --> 00:48:12,400
These are the ingredients
as well of this pig, isn't it?
802
00:48:12,400 --> 00:48:14,040
E tempo - time.
803
00:48:14,040 --> 00:48:18,880
And time, time is what plays,
like for the balsamic vinegar,
804
00:48:18,880 --> 00:48:22,120
again the master of time,
the master of time.
805
00:48:22,120 --> 00:48:25,600
When they make Ferraris, they master
time when they make culatello.
806
00:48:25,600 --> 00:48:28,760
They know how to wait for something
807
00:48:28,760 --> 00:48:32,520
that gets better and better
and better.
808
00:48:32,520 --> 00:48:35,560
'The meat is massaged with garlic,
and wine,
809
00:48:35,560 --> 00:48:40,120
'then it's covered with salt.
810
00:48:40,120 --> 00:48:44,880
'Finally, it's wrapped tightly
in a pig's bladder.
811
00:48:44,880 --> 00:48:47,960
'It's a technique that hasn't
changed for centuries.'
812
00:48:47,960 --> 00:48:50,160
That's the same way
that his grandfather
813
00:48:50,160 --> 00:48:53,560
used to make culatello
for Giuseppe Verdi. What?
814
00:48:53,560 --> 00:48:57,880
Giuseppe Verdi, you know, he used to
buy culatello from his grandfather.
815
00:48:57,880 --> 00:49:01,600
This is where, actually,
the artisan is king, you know.
816
00:49:01,600 --> 00:49:03,840
Fantastic.
How long will it be hanging?
817
00:49:03,840 --> 00:49:07,880
It can stay up to two or three years
without any problem.
818
00:49:07,880 --> 00:49:10,480
'When it's ready,
it's down to the cellar.'
819
00:49:14,760 --> 00:49:17,400
I can smell it.
820
00:49:17,400 --> 00:49:19,440
The march of the pig leads here.
821
00:49:19,440 --> 00:49:21,080
This is the paradise of the pig.
822
00:49:21,080 --> 00:49:25,560
'This cellar has been used to cure
culatello for nearly 700 years.'
823
00:49:25,560 --> 00:49:27,600
They're like sleeping bats.
824
00:49:27,600 --> 00:49:31,880
Look at that.
Massimo questo e bellissimo.
825
00:49:31,880 --> 00:49:35,280
Questo e il paradiso del maiale,
eh? Pig paradise.
826
00:49:35,280 --> 00:49:37,320
Have you seen? Look, Giorgio.
827
00:49:37,320 --> 00:49:39,320
Are these the names
of the clients?
828
00:49:39,320 --> 00:49:42,440
E qui e Principe Carlo.
That's Prince Charles's one?
829
00:49:42,440 --> 00:49:46,480
And look at that -
Prince Albert of Monaco.
830
00:49:46,480 --> 00:49:48,680
Armani!
831
00:49:48,680 --> 00:49:51,440
Giorgio Armani has a culatello.
And look at that.
832
00:49:51,440 --> 00:49:54,560
'This cellar is like
a perfectly honed machine.
833
00:49:54,560 --> 00:49:58,840
'To work best, Massimo must keep
exactly 5,000 culatello
834
00:49:58,840 --> 00:50:00,880
'hanging in here.'
835
00:50:00,880 --> 00:50:05,560
He decides every day how much
to open or close the window.
836
00:50:05,560 --> 00:50:08,360
Depend on the temperature,
depend on the humidity.
837
00:50:08,360 --> 00:50:14,400
So the fresh air will come in
with the fog, the humidity,
838
00:50:14,400 --> 00:50:18,480
and this activates the noble
white mould that gives
839
00:50:18,480 --> 00:50:22,040
that characteristic flavour
to the cured meat.
840
00:50:22,040 --> 00:50:25,880
This is the last ingredients coming
naturally through the window,
841
00:50:25,880 --> 00:50:30,280
and the man decides how much
to expose the culatello to.
842
00:50:45,360 --> 00:50:48,640
Oooh, that's a perfume of history.
Posso.
843
00:50:48,640 --> 00:50:50,920
Smell that.
844
00:50:54,320 --> 00:50:57,320
If a woman smelled like that,
would be my lover.
845
00:50:58,680 --> 00:51:02,000
Speak for yourself!
846
00:51:09,120 --> 00:51:11,560
We're going to eat it
before we get back to London,
847
00:51:11,560 --> 00:51:14,480
I'm not letting you away with that.
848
00:51:16,040 --> 00:51:18,720
'How wonderful that something
as simple as fog,
849
00:51:18,720 --> 00:51:23,960
'or even silence, can generate
such incredible flavour.
850
00:51:23,960 --> 00:51:26,560
'I've been struck for the first
time on this trip that
851
00:51:26,560 --> 00:51:29,440
'the features of the landscape
are actually just as important
852
00:51:29,440 --> 00:51:31,160
'to the art of the region.
853
00:51:31,160 --> 00:51:34,000
'The fog that swirls
through Correggio's fresco
854
00:51:34,000 --> 00:51:39,400
'in Parma Cathedral, just as it
swirls around Massimo's cellar.'
855
00:51:43,640 --> 00:51:47,880
'Centuries-old traditions are vital
to this region's livelihood,
856
00:51:47,880 --> 00:51:50,400
'even today.
857
00:51:50,400 --> 00:51:54,040
'So preserving them is important
to everyone who lives here.
858
00:51:54,040 --> 00:51:58,080
'Parma's Palatine library contains
a rare historical treasure
859
00:51:58,080 --> 00:52:00,680
'that I'm desperate
to get a peek at.'
860
00:52:00,680 --> 00:52:04,400
Wow, that is what I call a library.
That's fantastic.
861
00:52:04,400 --> 00:52:07,680
'This book is one of the earliest
existing Italian recipe books,
862
00:52:07,680 --> 00:52:10,560
'written in 1680 by Carlo Nascia,
863
00:52:10,560 --> 00:52:14,000
'who was private chef to
the Duke Ranuccio Farnese.
864
00:52:14,000 --> 00:52:18,000
'This 400-year-old manuscript
has recently been restored.'
865
00:52:18,000 --> 00:52:20,400
This book is very important.
866
00:52:20,400 --> 00:52:26,280
It really tells you what the
cookery of that time was like.
867
00:52:26,280 --> 00:52:29,000
Obviously, this is not
the cookery of the poor people,
868
00:52:29,000 --> 00:52:32,600
this is the cookery of the rich.
The recipes are very simply written,
869
00:52:32,600 --> 00:52:35,200
but it's a very intelligent book
870
00:52:35,200 --> 00:52:38,480
because he has a reference
to French food,
871
00:52:38,480 --> 00:52:41,280
he has a reference to Far East food.
872
00:52:41,280 --> 00:52:46,000
So it shows you how sophisticated
they were on their taste.
873
00:52:46,000 --> 00:52:47,240
Even that long time ago.
874
00:52:47,240 --> 00:52:50,080
Some of these recipes
have just caught my eye, look.
875
00:52:50,080 --> 00:52:52,720
Don't touch it... Mi dispiace!
876
00:52:52,720 --> 00:52:55,760
You been to Oxford and you should
know that you don't touch
877
00:52:55,760 --> 00:52:58,400
a manuscript, I touch it
because I got the gloves.
878
00:52:58,400 --> 00:52:59,840
So get your hands off.
879
00:52:59,840 --> 00:53:03,680
For one time, can I look intelligent
and you look like a peasant?
880
00:53:03,680 --> 00:53:07,120
For one time, you know, please,
you know. I got the gloves.
881
00:53:12,040 --> 00:53:18,120
Pasticcio di lombo, pasticcio di
carne, le torte diverse.
882
00:53:18,120 --> 00:53:20,440
'The Farnese Dukes
of the 17th century
883
00:53:20,440 --> 00:53:23,880
'would use these astounding banquets
as political tools,
884
00:53:23,880 --> 00:53:27,840
'demonstrating their power
and wealth to visiting dignitaries
885
00:53:27,840 --> 00:53:29,880
'who'd be left in awe and wonder.'
886
00:53:29,880 --> 00:53:34,160
This is amazing and the smell of
this book, it smells of the kitchen.
887
00:53:34,160 --> 00:53:35,960
Smell it.
888
00:53:35,960 --> 00:53:38,640
'For chefs like Carlo Nascia
and Pellegrino Artusi,
889
00:53:38,640 --> 00:53:41,280
'food is not just something
to fill up your belly.'
890
00:53:41,280 --> 00:53:42,680
It smells of the kitchen.
891
00:53:42,680 --> 00:53:48,760
'It can also feed the mind and be
used to great intellectual ends.'
892
00:53:48,760 --> 00:53:52,240
This is what modern cookery
is all about
893
00:53:52,240 --> 00:53:55,080
and this is how we start to learn,
894
00:53:55,080 --> 00:53:59,560
when people like that start
to write these books.
895
00:53:59,560 --> 00:54:02,880
'This book has been restored
by a group of very special ladies
896
00:54:02,880 --> 00:54:06,360
'who call themselves
the Fornello Dining Club.
897
00:54:06,360 --> 00:54:09,600
'They want to ensure that these
recipes are kept alive.
898
00:54:09,600 --> 00:54:11,920
'And most importantly, enjoyed!
899
00:54:14,360 --> 00:54:17,720
'For our last meal in Emilia-Romagna
they've invited us
900
00:54:17,720 --> 00:54:20,480
'to try out one of Nascia's recipes.'
901
00:54:20,480 --> 00:54:23,200
I'm going to cook something for you,
902
00:54:23,200 --> 00:54:28,600
which is this really special dish,
that is the Rosa di Parma. Si.
903
00:54:28,600 --> 00:54:32,360
Very simple ingredients,
the fillet steak. Filetto.
904
00:54:32,360 --> 00:54:36,320
Filetto. Aperto. Open up, butterflied
open, then we've got some garlic,
905
00:54:36,320 --> 00:54:42,480
some rosemary, some Parma ham,
some Parmesan and again...
906
00:54:42,480 --> 00:54:45,760
Lambrusco. Lambrusco.
907
00:54:56,840 --> 00:54:59,880
'Without the efforts of these women,
908
00:54:59,880 --> 00:55:03,120
'this recipe and many others would
have been lost forever.
909
00:55:19,640 --> 00:55:22,520
'The fillet is stuffed with
Parmesan cheese and Parma ham,
910
00:55:22,520 --> 00:55:24,640
'then rolled and tied.'
911
00:55:24,640 --> 00:55:27,160
Quanto.
912
00:55:35,240 --> 00:55:38,480
Yeah, I love the way the cheese
mixes in with the Parma ham
913
00:55:38,480 --> 00:55:41,800
and you get this sweet flavour,
and then the wine kicks in.
914
00:55:41,800 --> 00:55:44,760
That's right. With the cream,
I mean, this is rich food.
915
00:55:44,760 --> 00:55:49,440
This book proved that the banqueting
was something that was not just
916
00:55:49,440 --> 00:55:53,880
about food, was about showing
your power, your understanding
917
00:55:53,880 --> 00:55:57,560
of who was sitting around the table,
what they were going to eat,
918
00:55:57,560 --> 00:56:01,480
and show them your understanding
of the world that surrounds you,
919
00:56:01,480 --> 00:56:05,680
to get things from Genoa, to get
things from Venice, from Sicily.
920
00:56:05,680 --> 00:56:07,920
That was a show of power.
921
00:56:07,920 --> 00:56:10,920
Cheers, everybody!
922
00:56:10,920 --> 00:56:13,640
'These ladies might be just
a bit more glamorous
923
00:56:13,640 --> 00:56:15,520
'than our friends
at the fishing hut,
924
00:56:15,520 --> 00:56:17,680
'but the sentiment is the same.
925
00:56:17,680 --> 00:56:21,480
'To keep the heritage and traditions
of this region alive.
926
00:56:28,440 --> 00:56:31,920
'Emilia-Romagna is where
centuries-old traditions
927
00:56:31,920 --> 00:56:34,120
'have met with the modern world.
928
00:56:34,120 --> 00:56:37,400
'The people here know how
to appreciate the silence
929
00:56:37,400 --> 00:56:40,640
'with the speed,
richness with simplicity,
930
00:56:40,640 --> 00:56:44,480
'and always with an eye
to enjoying life.'
931
00:56:44,480 --> 00:56:48,080
One of the things I was struck by,
particularly in Bologna,
932
00:56:48,080 --> 00:56:50,720
which for me
was a great rediscovery,
933
00:56:50,720 --> 00:56:55,680
was the extent to which people
doing relatively modest occupations
934
00:56:55,680 --> 00:57:00,560
like making pasta or being a barber,
managed to carve out for themselves
935
00:57:00,560 --> 00:57:03,400
this fantastic environment
to work in.
936
00:57:03,400 --> 00:57:06,080
They've kept that
tradition of the small...
937
00:57:06,080 --> 00:57:08,080
Respect of the working person.
938
00:57:08,080 --> 00:57:11,200
Yes, there doesn't have
to be a multinational company,
939
00:57:11,200 --> 00:57:13,520
you can stay small
and it will still work.
940
00:57:13,520 --> 00:57:16,160
What do you think
your abiding memories will be
941
00:57:16,160 --> 00:57:18,240
of this trip through Emilia-Romagna?
942
00:57:18,240 --> 00:57:22,480
Oh, for me, it was just incredible
to see these people
943
00:57:22,480 --> 00:57:26,080
and they got such a joy of life
on one side,
944
00:57:26,080 --> 00:57:28,600
almost like the southern,
you know.
945
00:57:28,600 --> 00:57:35,320
And then on the other side, you have
this absolutely tough work ethic.
946
00:57:35,320 --> 00:57:38,120
They can wait for their produce.
947
00:57:38,120 --> 00:57:41,480
You mean the joy of the south
and the work ethic of the north...
948
00:57:41,480 --> 00:57:44,120
That's right. Fused.
949
00:57:44,120 --> 00:57:46,840
This theme of patience or, you know,
taking a long time
950
00:57:46,840 --> 00:57:49,880
to get something just right, I think
it's true of the art as well.
951
00:57:49,880 --> 00:57:53,960
Do you remember that amazing dome
painted by Correggio?
952
00:57:53,960 --> 00:57:58,040
Oh, my favourite thing.
That was my favourite thing ever!
953
00:57:58,040 --> 00:57:59,440
I never seen anything like that,
954
00:57:59,440 --> 00:58:01,920
that's much better than
the Sistine Chapel.
955
00:58:01,920 --> 00:58:05,680
You think that's much better than
the Sistine Chapel? Much better!
956
00:58:05,680 --> 00:58:08,360
Spoken like a true northern Italian.
957
00:58:08,360 --> 00:58:11,520
So where are we going to go next?
I'm going to take you to Lombardy.
958
00:58:11,520 --> 00:58:13,640
I'm going to take you to my region,
959
00:58:13,640 --> 00:58:15,880
my view of the world
started from there.
960
00:58:15,880 --> 00:58:18,520
I want you to have a look
at it from that as well.
961
00:58:18,520 --> 00:58:21,160
So Giorgio's going home. Andiamo.
962
00:58:21,160 --> 00:58:23,400
Andiamo.
Push down on the accelerator!
963
00:58:43,920 --> 00:58:45,560
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