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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,000 --> 00:00:06,240 'I'm Andrew Graham Dickson and I'm an art historian. 2 00:00:06,240 --> 00:00:08,240 'I'm Giorgio Locatelli and I'm a chef. 3 00:00:09,720 --> 00:00:13,640 'We are both passionate about my homeland, Italy.' 4 00:00:13,640 --> 00:00:18,240 The smells, the colour, this is what food is all about for me. 5 00:00:18,240 --> 00:00:23,120 'The rich flavours and classic dishes of this land are in my culinary DNA. 6 00:00:23,120 --> 00:00:25,920 'And this country's rich layers of art 7 00:00:25,920 --> 00:00:29,320 'and history have captivated me since childhood.' 8 00:00:29,320 --> 00:00:33,560 It's meant to make you feel as if you are being whirled up to heaven. 9 00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:36,880 'We're stepping off the tourist track and exploring Italy's 10 00:00:36,880 --> 00:00:41,400 'Northern regions of Emilia-Romagna, Lombardy and Piedmont.' 11 00:00:41,400 --> 00:00:45,000 'It's part of Italy that's often overlooked, but it drives 12 00:00:45,000 --> 00:00:48,720 'the whole country, and I want to show off its classic dishes. 13 00:00:48,720 --> 00:00:50,920 'Not to mention its hidden legacy 14 00:00:50,920 --> 00:00:53,480 'of artists, designers, intellectuals.' 15 00:00:53,480 --> 00:00:55,480 One of the world's great builders. 16 00:00:55,480 --> 00:00:57,560 Bellissima. 17 00:00:57,560 --> 00:00:59,880 'This week we are in Emilia-Romagna, 18 00:00:59,880 --> 00:01:03,280 'the birthplace of modern Italian cuisine. 19 00:01:03,280 --> 00:01:06,360 'And home to some of Italy's most fascinating artists 20 00:01:06,360 --> 00:01:08,000 'and powerful dynasties.' 21 00:01:17,560 --> 00:01:20,360 We are beginning our journey to this wonderful region 22 00:01:20,360 --> 00:01:22,320 in Bologna, its capital. 23 00:01:24,240 --> 00:01:27,800 I first came here with my parents when I was about ten years old 24 00:01:27,800 --> 00:01:30,960 and we must have visited just about every church in the city 25 00:01:30,960 --> 00:01:34,520 and everywhere we went, we bought postcards of the altar pieces, 26 00:01:34,520 --> 00:01:37,560 the sculptures, the paintings, and I always remember going home 27 00:01:37,560 --> 00:01:40,240 and sitting at the kitchen table with my mum for about a week, 28 00:01:40,240 --> 00:01:42,160 off and on, we made this scrap book. 29 00:01:42,160 --> 00:01:44,920 Maybe it was my very first lesson in art history. 30 00:01:50,040 --> 00:01:52,880 I'm looking forward to see all these producers, 31 00:01:52,880 --> 00:01:55,800 to put some faces on these people that 32 00:01:55,800 --> 00:01:58,520 I talk to through the telephone, you know, ordering stuff. 33 00:01:58,520 --> 00:02:01,400 Cos, you know, our menu always has something 34 00:02:01,400 --> 00:02:03,080 that comes from this place. 35 00:02:07,480 --> 00:02:11,160 Since the Middle Ages, Bologna has been known by three nicknames, 36 00:02:11,160 --> 00:02:16,000 la dotta, la grassa e la rossa - the learned, the fat and the red. 37 00:02:18,440 --> 00:02:22,960 'Renowned for its striking red building, militant politics and rich 38 00:02:22,960 --> 00:02:27,600 'cuisine, Bologna represents quality and taste, not to mention power.' 39 00:02:31,440 --> 00:02:32,920 I love the statue. 40 00:02:32,920 --> 00:02:35,080 And you know, for me, this is really Bologna, 41 00:02:35,080 --> 00:02:39,160 these big breasts she's holding there. Neptune, the abundance. 42 00:02:39,160 --> 00:02:43,040 The abundance. Oh. It's a symbol of the fact that Bologna has always 43 00:02:43,040 --> 00:02:46,680 thought of itself as a rich city, a powerful city. 44 00:02:46,680 --> 00:02:50,160 You know, we can get Giambologna, the greatest sculptor of his age 45 00:02:50,160 --> 00:02:52,880 to come here and create our Neptune Fountain. 46 00:02:54,040 --> 00:02:56,640 You can feel Bologna's sense of its own power 47 00:02:56,640 --> 00:02:59,080 as the capital of Emilia-Romagna here. 48 00:02:59,080 --> 00:03:02,280 It's the architecture of power, the scale is enormous. 49 00:03:02,280 --> 00:03:05,160 And it's not only that, it's also that you know the culture, 50 00:03:05,160 --> 00:03:07,560 I mean, the culture of food is incredible. 51 00:03:07,560 --> 00:03:09,600 You know Parma ham is 52 00:03:09,600 --> 00:03:12,320 more recognisable than the Italian flag, isn't it? 53 00:03:12,320 --> 00:03:14,520 It's more representative of Italy than... 54 00:03:14,520 --> 00:03:16,360 Parma ham and Parmesan cheese. 55 00:03:16,360 --> 00:03:17,360 Parmesan cheese, 56 00:03:17,360 --> 00:03:21,000 you know, all produced in a very traditional, artisan way. 57 00:03:29,760 --> 00:03:32,440 Tradition is important in Bologna, 58 00:03:32,440 --> 00:03:35,440 a city which likes to remember its past. 59 00:03:35,440 --> 00:03:38,480 At its heart is the oldest university in the world, 60 00:03:38,480 --> 00:03:41,120 established in 1088. 61 00:03:41,120 --> 00:03:43,440 "The home of la dotta, the learned." 62 00:03:46,160 --> 00:03:50,440 'Enrico Brizzi, one of my favourite Italian authors, studied here 63 00:03:50,440 --> 00:03:52,120 'and he's agreed to show us round.' 64 00:03:52,120 --> 00:03:53,720 This is where you belong, Andrew. 65 00:03:53,720 --> 00:03:54,600 Wow. 66 00:03:59,440 --> 00:04:03,680 It's fantastic. You just come in off the street like that. Yeah. 67 00:04:12,920 --> 00:04:18,240 The most influential families, the most wealthy family all 68 00:04:18,240 --> 00:04:23,760 around Europe send their children for a tour of the main universities 69 00:04:23,760 --> 00:04:27,840 and it was almost compulsory to pass from here. 70 00:04:27,840 --> 00:04:32,120 Have some time in Bologna. Are these their graduation plaques? 71 00:04:32,120 --> 00:04:35,360 Yeah. The graduated students left here 72 00:04:35,360 --> 00:04:38,280 the coat of arms of their families. 73 00:04:39,840 --> 00:04:44,720 'In 1562, Bologna began a massive remodelling of the city centre, 74 00:04:44,720 --> 00:04:47,960 'including an expansion of the Cathedral of San Pietro. 75 00:04:47,960 --> 00:04:51,600 'When the Pope realised, with some alarm, that the cathedral was 76 00:04:51,600 --> 00:04:55,080 'destined to become bigger than St Peter's and the Vatican itself, 77 00:04:55,080 --> 00:04:59,840 'the money was diverted to these magnificent university buildings 78 00:04:59,840 --> 00:05:04,400 'and it gave birth to a new type of pilgrim to Bologna - students.' 79 00:05:04,400 --> 00:05:07,480 You know, Andrew, what I think, as well, is that all the students come 80 00:05:07,480 --> 00:05:11,600 here and this is not only important what they bring in and learn, 81 00:05:11,600 --> 00:05:15,320 but also what they take away. Of the colour of the building but... 82 00:05:15,320 --> 00:05:18,200 'These hallowed halls have seen the likes of Dante, Petrarch 83 00:05:18,200 --> 00:05:21,120 'and Thomas a Beckett pass through them. 84 00:05:21,120 --> 00:05:25,320 'And there's one room which I'm particularly excited about seeing. 85 00:05:25,320 --> 00:05:29,920 'A true example of how art can inspire learning.' 86 00:05:34,480 --> 00:05:36,360 Wow! 87 00:05:36,360 --> 00:05:39,000 This is one of the great things, not just to Bologna, 88 00:05:39,000 --> 00:05:40,920 this is one of the great things in the world. 89 00:05:40,920 --> 00:05:45,880 It's the only really authentic surviving early, early, 90 00:05:45,880 --> 00:05:49,600 anatomy theatre, and that is a Renaissance-coffered ceiling. 91 00:05:49,600 --> 00:05:52,800 And in the middle we've got Apollo with his lyre, pointing down, 92 00:05:52,800 --> 00:05:55,400 the God of Medicine pointing straight down, 93 00:05:55,400 --> 00:05:59,680 probably to the hand of the anatomy teacher as he demonstrates 94 00:05:59,680 --> 00:06:01,680 to his students how to cut up a body. 95 00:06:09,080 --> 00:06:12,280 I feel a bit presumptuous doing this but I think it's the only 96 00:06:12,280 --> 00:06:16,400 way to understand the space, which is a theatre of learning. 97 00:06:16,400 --> 00:06:18,080 He loves it up there. 98 00:06:18,080 --> 00:06:22,440 Yeah, because the Professor in ancient times was also an actor. 99 00:06:22,440 --> 00:06:25,080 Right. Yeah, absolutely. Who is performing lessons. 100 00:06:25,080 --> 00:06:28,920 Absolutely, teaching was a form of rhetoric and you feel that up here. 101 00:06:28,920 --> 00:06:31,920 My job would have been... Giorgio, come up here, Giorgio, come on. 102 00:06:31,920 --> 00:06:34,440 My job would have been to be down here, I'll tell you. No. 103 00:06:34,440 --> 00:06:37,520 Sweeping up the blood and the entrails left over. 104 00:06:39,920 --> 00:06:41,720 And so now you're on the spot 105 00:06:41,720 --> 00:06:45,160 and you've got all the figures of the past, Galen, Hippocrates, 106 00:06:45,160 --> 00:06:49,560 they are all caught in a frozen moment of their teaching. 107 00:06:49,560 --> 00:06:54,920 And this canopy on the top of us is an allegorical figure of anatomy 108 00:06:54,920 --> 00:06:59,360 but it's supported by these grizzly figures of skinned men. 109 00:06:59,360 --> 00:07:00,680 Yes. 110 00:07:00,680 --> 00:07:02,240 So you can see the tendons. 111 00:07:02,240 --> 00:07:05,040 Yes, and the muscle and everything. This is incredible. 112 00:07:05,040 --> 00:07:07,000 He's even got a peeled penis. 113 00:07:08,360 --> 00:07:10,560 You don't see many of those in world art. 114 00:07:14,800 --> 00:07:18,800 See that figure at the back? Uh-huh. Do you know what he's holding? No. 115 00:07:18,800 --> 00:07:24,960 He is holding a human nose because that is Tagliacozzi, 116 00:07:24,960 --> 00:07:28,240 the founding father of cosmetic surgery who apparently... He didn't! 117 00:07:28,240 --> 00:07:32,120 He did, he did the first nose job, so that's why he's holding a nose. 118 00:07:32,120 --> 00:07:34,920 The nose. Oh, my God. How many years ago? 119 00:07:34,920 --> 00:07:38,360 How many ears ago? How many noses ago? 120 00:07:40,040 --> 00:07:44,680 Madonna. Enrico, I have to say thank you, it's just a masterpiece. 121 00:07:46,440 --> 00:07:49,240 'It's not hard to see how Bologna earned its nickname 122 00:07:49,240 --> 00:07:51,640 'la dotta, the learned. 123 00:07:51,640 --> 00:07:54,720 'Walking through these stunning buildings, 124 00:07:54,720 --> 00:07:58,560 'the sense of them as living places of learning really is striking. 125 00:07:58,560 --> 00:08:02,640 'They give the whole city a sense of life and vivacity. 126 00:08:02,640 --> 00:08:06,400 'But just like an army, students and their teachers march 127 00:08:06,400 --> 00:08:10,800 'on their stomachs and it's time to discover a true Bolognese meal.' 128 00:08:10,800 --> 00:08:13,720 You know what? With all this culture and everything, I think that, 129 00:08:13,720 --> 00:08:18,400 you know, now we should just explore the second bit. 130 00:08:18,400 --> 00:08:21,080 Enough dotta, enough intelligentsia, 131 00:08:21,080 --> 00:08:23,960 let us work out something about the grassa. 132 00:08:28,360 --> 00:08:31,720 'You can't come to Bologna without eating the king of Italian dishes - 133 00:08:31,720 --> 00:08:37,280 'pasta ragu - a dish that's known worldwide by another name - 134 00:08:37,280 --> 00:08:40,040 'spaghetti Bolognese. 135 00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:42,200 'In Italy, we are famous for our pasta, 136 00:08:42,200 --> 00:08:45,680 'and Bologna is the place to come from fresh egg pasta, 137 00:08:45,680 --> 00:08:49,440 'which artisans here turn into a work of art. 138 00:08:49,440 --> 00:08:53,040 'No wonder this city is known as la grassa, the fat one.' 139 00:08:53,040 --> 00:08:58,200 So here, the same attention to detail that is paid to art 140 00:08:58,200 --> 00:09:01,240 and to music, you know, is paid to food. 141 00:09:01,240 --> 00:09:04,080 And so here you are, look, this is all made by hand. 142 00:09:04,080 --> 00:09:05,760 Look at what it says there, 143 00:09:05,760 --> 00:09:08,400 "Tagliatelle ve le tagliamo su misura." 144 00:09:08,400 --> 00:09:10,800 They cut the tagliatelle how long you want it, 145 00:09:10,800 --> 00:09:13,840 so if you want heavy sauce, short tagliatelle, 146 00:09:13,840 --> 00:09:17,520 if you have a light sauce, like a pesto or tomato sauce then 147 00:09:17,520 --> 00:09:20,960 long tagliatelle, two fork or one fork they call it, you know. 148 00:09:20,960 --> 00:09:22,400 So this is tailor-made pasta? 149 00:09:22,400 --> 00:09:26,960 But not only. Look, it says here, "Tortellini per ingannare i mariti." 150 00:09:26,960 --> 00:09:28,280 To fool your husband. 151 00:09:28,280 --> 00:09:31,120 Cos you take them home and tell your husband that you made it yourself. 152 00:09:31,120 --> 00:09:34,160 Per ingannare i mariti. Yeah. 153 00:09:34,160 --> 00:09:36,200 Buona sera, signora Edda. 154 00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:37,640 Buona sera. 155 00:09:37,640 --> 00:09:39,640 Che piacere vedere la. TRANSLATION 156 00:09:40,880 --> 00:09:43,320 Ma ciao, come stai? 157 00:09:45,120 --> 00:09:48,440 You don't come in here just to buy stuff. 158 00:09:48,440 --> 00:09:51,200 It's not like a fuel station that you come in 159 00:09:51,200 --> 00:09:54,680 and you fill up the car and go. You talk to them, they talk to you. 160 00:09:54,680 --> 00:09:57,920 Look, there's a chair, you can sit down if you're tired. 161 00:09:59,160 --> 00:10:01,480 'Food here is a living tradition. 162 00:10:01,480 --> 00:10:04,640 'This shop has been in the same family for 130 years.' 163 00:10:08,080 --> 00:10:09,920 Andiamo far un po di pasta? 164 00:10:09,920 --> 00:10:12,880 It's obviously very serious business, this pasta, Giorgio? 165 00:10:12,880 --> 00:10:14,240 It is very serious. 166 00:10:14,240 --> 00:10:17,640 'This is the perfect place to get the tagliatelle for dinner tonight.' 167 00:10:17,640 --> 00:10:21,080 This is like a cathedral. You're entering now the inner chamber. 168 00:10:21,080 --> 00:10:22,720 Prego, prego! 169 00:10:24,480 --> 00:10:28,000 When you eat spaghetti or when you eat dried pasta, 170 00:10:28,000 --> 00:10:31,200 the one that comes from the south, that's durum wheat. 171 00:10:31,200 --> 00:10:34,120 Mm-hm. OK, so durum wheat contains a lot of protein. 172 00:10:34,120 --> 00:10:37,240 This, because in the north, the type of soil, 173 00:10:37,240 --> 00:10:39,520 they just only grow soft wheat. 174 00:10:39,520 --> 00:10:43,200 So the soft wheat hasn't got any protein in it. 175 00:10:43,200 --> 00:10:46,680 So the al dente won't be there, the pasta will be very mushy. 176 00:10:46,680 --> 00:10:49,720 OK, so by putting in the eggs, which contains a lot of protein 177 00:10:49,720 --> 00:10:53,440 in the eggs, you're going to achieve that al dente texture. 178 00:10:53,440 --> 00:10:58,840 This is like a...an incredible expression of how, actually, 179 00:10:58,840 --> 00:11:03,160 the land determine what you have on the plate. 180 00:11:03,160 --> 00:11:06,800 You know, all the world eats this spaghetti Bolognese. 181 00:11:06,800 --> 00:11:09,640 Here when they make the Bolognese in Bologna, they don't know 182 00:11:09,640 --> 00:11:12,480 what spaghetti Bolognese is. Nobody eats spaghetti Bolognese. 183 00:11:12,480 --> 00:11:14,280 No Bolognese. Noi solo facciamo. 184 00:11:16,360 --> 00:11:18,800 So how come, the world over, people eat spaghetti Bolognese? 185 00:11:18,800 --> 00:11:22,200 Because the Americans, you know. Oh, OK. 186 00:11:31,360 --> 00:11:33,160 Have you seen this? 187 00:11:33,160 --> 00:11:36,160 This is called mattarello. 188 00:11:36,160 --> 00:11:39,240 Signora Edda, a cosa servi il mattarello? Per due cose no? 189 00:11:39,240 --> 00:11:40,640 Per il marito. 190 00:11:40,640 --> 00:11:41,720 Two things. 191 00:11:41,720 --> 00:11:44,760 To make the pasta and when your husband come back drunk, 192 00:11:44,760 --> 00:11:46,800 you wait behind the door 193 00:11:46,800 --> 00:11:48,440 and ba-da-boom! 194 00:11:48,440 --> 00:11:51,680 And apparently they say that if you don't know why you hit him, 195 00:11:51,680 --> 00:11:52,880 he knows why you hit him. 196 00:11:52,880 --> 00:11:54,520 Il marito lo conosce. 197 00:11:54,520 --> 00:11:57,880 Yeah, it's the husband knows this one very well apparently. 198 00:11:59,640 --> 00:12:02,760 Is that the right length for your...? That's perfect. 199 00:12:08,800 --> 00:12:11,000 No pomodoro, eh. 200 00:12:11,000 --> 00:12:14,640 She said don't use tomatoes. Don't use tomatoes! 201 00:12:14,640 --> 00:12:16,840 Buonapetito. 202 00:12:16,840 --> 00:12:18,120 Don't drop it. 203 00:12:25,080 --> 00:12:28,240 'I'm leaving Andrew for a couple of hours to buy some other 204 00:12:28,240 --> 00:12:30,040 'ingredients for dinner tonight.' 205 00:12:36,320 --> 00:12:37,400 Oh, yes. 206 00:12:37,400 --> 00:12:38,800 Tre o quarto carotti. 207 00:12:44,160 --> 00:12:46,120 Grazie. 208 00:12:48,440 --> 00:12:50,520 'My ragu is based on a classic recipe, 209 00:12:50,520 --> 00:12:54,040 'written by Pellegrino Artusi in 1891.' 210 00:12:54,040 --> 00:12:55,960 Buongiorno. Buongiorno. 211 00:12:55,960 --> 00:12:59,880 'His book, Science In The Kitchen And The Art Of Eating Well 212 00:12:59,880 --> 00:13:03,560 'is my Bible. In fact, here in Italy, it's everybody Bible.' 213 00:13:03,560 --> 00:13:05,600 Questa e per la ragu antiqua? 214 00:13:05,600 --> 00:13:08,040 A l'antiqua. Quello di Artusi. 215 00:13:08,040 --> 00:13:09,160 Esatto. Fantastico. 216 00:13:09,160 --> 00:13:12,720 Senza pomodoro e! 217 00:13:12,720 --> 00:13:13,960 Un pocatino? 218 00:13:13,960 --> 00:13:15,360 E ci vuole e. 219 00:13:15,360 --> 00:13:16,800 Ci la mettiamo? 220 00:13:16,800 --> 00:13:19,040 Ci la mettiamo un pocatino. Una punto cosi. 221 00:13:26,200 --> 00:13:29,000 'While Giorgio focuses on the local cuisine, 222 00:13:29,000 --> 00:13:32,400 'I want to find a delicacy of my own, of the artistic type. 223 00:13:38,520 --> 00:13:41,760 'I'm on the hunt for one of Bologna's hidden gems. 224 00:13:41,760 --> 00:13:44,960 'Every major Italian town has a Pinacoteca Nazionale - 225 00:13:44,960 --> 00:13:48,840 'National Art Gallery - which houses the work of local artists. 226 00:13:51,160 --> 00:13:54,640 'Thankfully, there's 25 miles of portico's covering Bologna's 227 00:13:54,640 --> 00:13:56,720 'pavements to keep the sun off my head.' 228 00:13:58,400 --> 00:14:02,280 'And with their frescoes, even these are artistic as well as functional.' 229 00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:10,800 Solo stanco? I'm exhausted. Are you OK? It's too hot. 230 00:14:10,800 --> 00:14:12,120 Yeah, it's OK, but look at this. 231 00:14:12,120 --> 00:14:14,680 It's difficult to find this place, eh? It's not easy to find 232 00:14:14,680 --> 00:14:16,400 but this is what I like, you know. 233 00:14:16,400 --> 00:14:18,760 Here we are, it's an unassuming part of Bologna. 234 00:14:18,760 --> 00:14:19,960 Really unassuming. 235 00:14:19,960 --> 00:14:23,440 Really unassuming. You wouldn't even know that this art gallery 236 00:14:23,440 --> 00:14:25,480 was here, it's just a little subtle sign, 237 00:14:25,480 --> 00:14:28,720 "Ministero Per I Bene E Le Attivita Culturali", 238 00:14:28,720 --> 00:14:31,760 but I've found a real treat inside for you. Yeah? 239 00:14:31,760 --> 00:14:35,200 'This building may not be as impressive as the Uffizi 240 00:14:35,200 --> 00:14:38,640 'in Florence, but inside there are real treasures to be found. 241 00:14:42,120 --> 00:14:46,400 'The pinnacle of Italian art is not restricted to Tuscany and Rome. 242 00:14:46,400 --> 00:14:50,400 'Bologna and Emilia-Romagna also produced some fantastically 243 00:14:50,400 --> 00:14:52,480 'influential artists.' 244 00:14:52,480 --> 00:14:58,760 The Bolognese do not like this idea that you simply paint what you see. 245 00:14:58,760 --> 00:15:01,240 Realism is not their thing. 246 00:15:01,240 --> 00:15:04,440 Art is about conveying an idea, 247 00:15:04,440 --> 00:15:07,280 it's a much more intellectual approach to painting. 248 00:15:11,920 --> 00:15:15,400 Guido Reni was born in Bologna in 1575 249 00:15:15,400 --> 00:15:17,880 and became celebrated throughout Italy. 250 00:15:17,880 --> 00:15:20,920 But his fame dimmed as the Bolognese style of painting 251 00:15:20,920 --> 00:15:22,080 fell out of fashion. 252 00:15:23,280 --> 00:15:25,760 That I really like. 253 00:15:25,760 --> 00:15:30,120 This great painting was commissioned for Bologna's San Domenico Church. 254 00:15:30,120 --> 00:15:32,480 And you can just imagine the impact it would have had 255 00:15:32,480 --> 00:15:34,920 as you stared at it over Mass. 256 00:15:34,920 --> 00:15:36,720 It certainly draws your eye, it's a drama. 257 00:15:36,720 --> 00:15:39,160 Yeah, it's a drama. It's the Massacre of the Innocents. 258 00:15:39,160 --> 00:15:41,200 So that's what they are, the little kids? 259 00:15:41,200 --> 00:15:44,760 This is one of the bloodiest scenes in all of the Bible - 260 00:15:44,760 --> 00:15:47,280 a genocide enacted upon children. 261 00:15:47,280 --> 00:15:48,680 Children, yeah. 262 00:15:48,680 --> 00:15:51,760 And yet the idea here in Bologna was that 263 00:15:51,760 --> 00:15:55,440 if you actually painted it as if it were real, it would just be 264 00:15:55,440 --> 00:15:59,520 so sensational that people wouldn't think about what's really going on. 265 00:15:59,520 --> 00:16:03,160 Whereas if you distance it all, people can bear to look at it 266 00:16:03,160 --> 00:16:06,200 and therefore they can think about it in a different way 267 00:16:06,200 --> 00:16:07,840 and be affected by it in a different way. 268 00:16:19,800 --> 00:16:21,760 For dinner, Andrew and I 269 00:16:21,760 --> 00:16:25,080 will enjoy a Bolognese masterpiece of a different sort. 270 00:16:25,080 --> 00:16:26,680 Pasta ragu. 271 00:16:26,680 --> 00:16:29,360 It's a dish that sits firmly on the local tradition 272 00:16:29,360 --> 00:16:31,320 of rich Italian food. 273 00:16:31,320 --> 00:16:34,440 It must be one of the reasons Bologna is also nicknamed la grassa, 274 00:16:34,440 --> 00:16:35,440 the fat. 275 00:16:36,880 --> 00:16:42,760 Bologna la Dotta would not exist without Bologna la grassa - 276 00:16:42,760 --> 00:16:44,760 la grassa, the fat one. 277 00:16:46,120 --> 00:16:50,280 'For my ragu sauce, I'm following Pellegrino Artusi's classic recipe. 278 00:16:50,280 --> 00:16:54,720 'Artusi was obsessed by the idea of compiling comprehensive lists of recipes, 279 00:16:54,720 --> 00:16:57,400 'from every Italian region.' 280 00:16:57,400 --> 00:17:00,040 Artusi, he's one of your heroes, right? 281 00:17:00,040 --> 00:17:01,840 He's definitely my hero. 282 00:17:01,840 --> 00:17:07,640 He was the first writer that actually sort of put together in the book, 283 00:17:07,640 --> 00:17:10,760 a concept of Italian cuisine. 284 00:17:10,760 --> 00:17:13,840 You know, because we have so many different regions with so many 285 00:17:13,840 --> 00:17:18,320 different microclimatic conditions and so many different ingredients. 286 00:17:18,320 --> 00:17:20,920 So obviously the diet is a little bit different. 287 00:17:20,920 --> 00:17:26,280 So it's believed it was not just to give you a recipe, he'd give you 288 00:17:26,280 --> 00:17:29,680 the whole history of the recipe and the meaning of the recipe. 289 00:17:29,680 --> 00:17:32,920 So it's kind of a culinary portrait of Italy? 290 00:17:32,920 --> 00:17:35,840 Garibaldi unified Italy politically, 291 00:17:35,840 --> 00:17:39,240 but he kind of unified Italy gastronomically. 292 00:17:39,240 --> 00:17:40,760 Do you know what I mean? 293 00:17:45,120 --> 00:17:47,760 I'm going to add a little nice slap of butter. 294 00:17:47,760 --> 00:17:51,080 You said you were going to put some heart in it? 295 00:17:51,080 --> 00:17:52,240 Was it a lamb's heart? 296 00:17:52,240 --> 00:17:54,760 Yeah, the butcher that we went this morning to get the thing, 297 00:17:54,760 --> 00:17:56,880 he says, "Oh, you want two hearts as well?" 298 00:17:56,880 --> 00:17:58,920 I'm, like, "Yeah, I'll have the hearts as well." 299 00:17:58,920 --> 00:18:00,520 I thought it was really good. 300 00:18:00,520 --> 00:18:01,880 So you must have liked Othello, 301 00:18:01,880 --> 00:18:05,440 if you've allowed Othello to alter the great Artusi's recipe, eh? 302 00:18:05,440 --> 00:18:07,080 That's true, you're right. 303 00:18:07,080 --> 00:18:09,960 If you get some good advice on the market or it just seems right, 304 00:18:09,960 --> 00:18:11,120 you follow it, yeah. 305 00:18:15,680 --> 00:18:17,600 So my meat is now kind of browning. 306 00:18:19,640 --> 00:18:23,760 I'm going to put the vegetables in it that I already cooked. 307 00:18:23,760 --> 00:18:26,600 Today when I went to the butcher, Othello he said, 308 00:18:26,600 --> 00:18:31,440 "It's true that Artusi say not to put the tomato, 309 00:18:31,440 --> 00:18:35,480 "but just a nice, little spoon of tomato, 310 00:18:35,480 --> 00:18:37,960 "per il colore, for the colour." 311 00:18:37,960 --> 00:18:40,440 But you know what you're doing here? I'm doing... 312 00:18:40,440 --> 00:18:41,640 You know what you're doing. 313 00:18:41,640 --> 00:18:44,240 You're going to get hit on the head with that rolling pin! 314 00:18:44,240 --> 00:18:45,880 Cos she said whatever you do, 315 00:18:45,880 --> 00:18:49,320 if you're making the ragu Bolognese, you don't put the tomato in. 316 00:18:49,320 --> 00:18:51,720 But I really want to put a little bit of tomato in it. 317 00:18:51,720 --> 00:18:53,160 A tiny little bit. 318 00:18:53,160 --> 00:18:55,240 You're a heretic! Heretic. 319 00:18:55,240 --> 00:18:56,400 You're a heretic. 320 00:18:56,400 --> 00:18:59,160 I'll tell you what Artusi has to say to you. 321 00:18:59,160 --> 00:19:01,880 Artusi had a very nosy priest. Right. 322 00:19:01,880 --> 00:19:03,520 Who lived near him. Right. 323 00:19:03,520 --> 00:19:05,720 And he called him Don Pomodoro. 324 00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:07,040 Don Pomodoro. 325 00:19:07,040 --> 00:19:08,280 Do you know why, 326 00:19:08,280 --> 00:19:10,840 because this priest got his nose into everyone's business. 327 00:19:10,840 --> 00:19:12,360 Everyone business, every sauce. 328 00:19:12,360 --> 00:19:14,480 He's like the tomato, he gets in everywhere. 329 00:19:14,480 --> 00:19:15,880 In everywhere, yeah. 330 00:19:15,880 --> 00:19:19,760 Look, I just put in literally like, a spoonful. 331 00:19:20,800 --> 00:19:22,600 Maybe two. 332 00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:25,240 You should give some leftovers to her and see if she notices? 333 00:19:25,240 --> 00:19:26,800 Senora Edda, you mean? 334 00:19:26,800 --> 00:19:28,800 Perfect. 335 00:19:28,800 --> 00:19:30,320 GLASSES CLINK 336 00:19:30,320 --> 00:19:33,400 To the success of your heretical pasta sauce recipe. 337 00:19:35,400 --> 00:19:37,240 'While my sauce is cooking, 338 00:19:37,240 --> 00:19:40,280 'we've got time to take in the sunset over Bologna. 339 00:19:40,280 --> 00:19:43,320 'That's if we can make it up all the 280 steps.' 340 00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:45,640 I mean, what are you...? Working up an appetite! 341 00:19:45,640 --> 00:19:48,080 That's what we're doing, working up an appetite for you. 342 00:19:48,080 --> 00:19:49,640 HE PANTS 343 00:19:49,640 --> 00:19:51,360 Ci siamo. We arrive. 344 00:19:51,360 --> 00:19:53,160 Come. 345 00:19:53,160 --> 00:19:54,960 Oh, look at the moon! 346 00:19:56,760 --> 00:19:58,200 Andrew, look at the moon. 347 00:19:59,480 --> 00:20:01,000 It's so beautiful. 348 00:20:03,360 --> 00:20:06,760 Look, all the Centro Storico is just red, isn't it? 349 00:20:14,600 --> 00:20:16,840 Now, we really like this in Bologna. 350 00:20:16,840 --> 00:20:21,720 To me, you know the best dish is tagliatelle with ragu, 351 00:20:21,720 --> 00:20:23,240 it's the best dish ever. 352 00:20:23,240 --> 00:20:24,560 Can I take some cheese? 353 00:20:24,560 --> 00:20:27,240 Un po di parmigiano. Cosi? How much? 354 00:20:27,240 --> 00:20:29,440 As much as you like. I don't like too much. 355 00:20:29,440 --> 00:20:31,440 As much as you can afford, usually they say. 356 00:20:39,160 --> 00:20:41,120 CUTLERY CLINKS AGAINST THE BOWL 357 00:20:42,240 --> 00:20:43,680 ANDREW LAUGHS 358 00:20:44,680 --> 00:20:46,720 Thank you, Artusi. 359 00:20:46,720 --> 00:20:48,720 Thank you, Edda. I think the pasta is delicious. 360 00:20:48,720 --> 00:20:50,800 The pasta is delicious. 361 00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:54,240 I mean, if that was spaghetti, Giorgio, look. 362 00:20:54,240 --> 00:20:56,840 All of that would fall off right. That's exactly. 363 00:20:56,840 --> 00:20:59,080 But it's been caught in the knots. That's exactly. 364 00:20:59,080 --> 00:21:02,400 The spread of the idea of the spaghetti Bolognese 365 00:21:02,400 --> 00:21:06,600 with the meat sauce, is very much attached to the immigrants. 366 00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:09,800 The immigrants left Italy because there was not enough food. 367 00:21:09,800 --> 00:21:12,920 And so when they went to America, you know, the only thing they, 368 00:21:12,920 --> 00:21:14,840 the only thing they says... Oh. 369 00:21:14,840 --> 00:21:16,560 ..there was plentiful of meat there, 370 00:21:16,560 --> 00:21:20,320 so they put as much meat as you can with every dish of pasta. 371 00:21:20,320 --> 00:21:23,720 So what had been before been the dish you'd eat once in a while 372 00:21:23,720 --> 00:21:26,280 when times are good and you've got some meat became... 373 00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:28,320 Suddenly it was something that, you know. 374 00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:29,360 Oh. 375 00:21:40,160 --> 00:21:41,360 Buongiorno. 376 00:21:41,360 --> 00:21:42,520 Buongiorno. 377 00:21:42,520 --> 00:21:44,000 Buongiorno. 378 00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:45,000 Buongiorno. 379 00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:46,840 GIORGIO SPEAKS IN ITALIAN TO THE BARBER 380 00:21:46,840 --> 00:21:48,640 'There is nothing like a good shave 381 00:21:48,640 --> 00:21:50,280 'and to freshen up in the morning. 382 00:21:50,280 --> 00:21:52,920 'And I know that Andrew will love this place.' 383 00:21:52,920 --> 00:21:56,720 But, Giorgio, isn't this another example of how in Bologna, 384 00:21:56,720 --> 00:22:01,680 people who do everyday occupations somehow manage to do them 385 00:22:01,680 --> 00:22:04,760 in surroundings of such calm and dignity and beauty, 386 00:22:04,760 --> 00:22:06,720 you know, like the lady making the pasta, 387 00:22:06,720 --> 00:22:09,760 she's doing it in a shop that's like a palace. 388 00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:15,960 'Beneath the calm and dignity is a volatile political history. 389 00:22:15,960 --> 00:22:20,000 'It's not just the buildings that are red in Bologna, the politics is too. 390 00:22:21,360 --> 00:22:25,440 'The centre of Bologna is full of small, independent business. 391 00:22:25,440 --> 00:22:27,960 'They all thrive because of the socialist policies 392 00:22:27,960 --> 00:22:32,200 'established by Bologna Communist Party in the post war years. 393 00:22:32,200 --> 00:22:37,240 'Small traders pay much lower business rates than large corporations. 394 00:22:37,240 --> 00:22:41,680 'And it's this link to the Communist Party that is in more recent times 395 00:22:41,680 --> 00:22:46,400 'the reason for Bologna's third nickname, la Rossa, the Red.' 396 00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,320 Your face will feel so good all day you know. 397 00:22:49,320 --> 00:22:50,560 Grazie. 398 00:22:50,560 --> 00:22:52,840 Grazie. Arrivederci. 399 00:22:52,840 --> 00:22:56,120 Buona giornata. 400 00:22:56,120 --> 00:23:00,520 'Bologna's reputation for political militancy is not limited 401 00:23:00,520 --> 00:23:03,840 'to the post-war Communist years. 402 00:23:03,840 --> 00:23:09,280 'As far back as 1506, Bologna saw popular uprising against the ruling classes, 403 00:23:09,280 --> 00:23:12,960 'which led to the city being annexed by the Papal State. 404 00:23:14,520 --> 00:23:17,480 'The Bolognese spirit of rebellion rose again 405 00:23:17,480 --> 00:23:19,680 'during the Second World War. 406 00:23:19,680 --> 00:23:22,280 'Bologna was a centre for the Resistance. 407 00:23:22,280 --> 00:23:26,760 'Over 1,800 Resistance fighters were shot here by the Nazis. 408 00:23:31,440 --> 00:23:34,880 'Bologna la Rossa has also left an artistic legacy. 409 00:23:34,880 --> 00:23:37,720 'The 20th century Bolognese artist, Giorgio Morandi, 410 00:23:37,720 --> 00:23:41,640 'spent his career paying homage to humble, everyday objects, 411 00:23:41,640 --> 00:23:44,880 'right up until his death in 1964. 412 00:23:44,880 --> 00:23:50,720 'Day after day, he sat in this studio rearranging and painting these pots. 413 00:23:50,720 --> 00:23:54,800 'He's revered in Bologna, his studio's preserved as a shrine, 414 00:23:54,800 --> 00:23:59,080 'and his life work is displayed in this new museum.' 415 00:23:59,080 --> 00:24:01,760 It's a painting of apparently almost nothing. 416 00:24:01,760 --> 00:24:05,280 There is this sort of a flavour of old Italy, 417 00:24:05,280 --> 00:24:08,720 it reminds me of, like, grandparents keeping things 418 00:24:08,720 --> 00:24:12,920 and never throwing away anything and giving a personality 419 00:24:12,920 --> 00:24:16,360 to each of the objects that means something to them. 420 00:24:16,360 --> 00:24:18,360 You hardly ever get in Morandi 421 00:24:18,360 --> 00:24:22,480 anything that looks like...luxury colour, 422 00:24:22,480 --> 00:24:24,640 this is not luxury, this is simplicity. 423 00:24:24,640 --> 00:24:26,480 If you think about it, 424 00:24:26,480 --> 00:24:28,600 you have all those colours in the front of you. 425 00:24:28,600 --> 00:24:31,200 It's like the ingredients, you get a lot of ingredients, 426 00:24:31,200 --> 00:24:34,000 and most chefs just put them all in the dish, like, you know, 427 00:24:34,000 --> 00:24:40,920 it takes of strength and self-assertiveness to make sure 428 00:24:40,920 --> 00:24:44,080 that you only pick the right one that will work for you. 429 00:24:44,080 --> 00:24:46,240 I think that's part of his cleverness as an artist, 430 00:24:46,240 --> 00:24:50,480 he is very much painting during the rise of global capitalism. Right. 431 00:24:50,480 --> 00:24:53,560 And if you wanted to find his sort of opposite in world art, 432 00:24:53,560 --> 00:24:55,800 it would be Andy Warhol. That's right. 433 00:24:55,800 --> 00:24:58,360 Who's painting the ordinary objects of American life, 434 00:24:58,360 --> 00:25:00,440 but it's Heinz tomatoes and it's... 435 00:25:00,440 --> 00:25:03,640 Brand names. Brand names. Brillo boxes. 436 00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:06,520 I mean, maybe that's Bologna la Rossa. 437 00:25:06,520 --> 00:25:08,960 Maybe this is a kind of counterblast, 438 00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:13,480 because he's painting these pictures up until, well, he dies in 1964. 439 00:25:13,480 --> 00:25:16,160 So maybe he's the sort of counterblast to Warhol. 440 00:25:19,040 --> 00:25:22,720 'For me, Bologna definitely lives up to its three nicknames, 441 00:25:22,720 --> 00:25:26,400 'la dotta, la grassa and la rossa. 442 00:25:26,400 --> 00:25:28,840 'And they're all intricately intertwined, 443 00:25:28,840 --> 00:25:32,560 'a fascinating marriage of food, culture and politics.' 444 00:25:34,800 --> 00:25:38,600 It's quite a comfortable, very bourgeois town 445 00:25:38,600 --> 00:25:41,240 that you'd think maybe had forgotten its socialist past, 446 00:25:41,240 --> 00:25:44,080 but it's still there, don't you think? I think so. 447 00:25:44,080 --> 00:25:49,920 JAUNTY ACOUSTIC GUITAR MUSIC 448 00:25:49,920 --> 00:25:52,000 'So it's goodbye to Bologna. 449 00:25:52,000 --> 00:25:55,240 'Now we're off to explore the rest of Emilia-Romagna.' 450 00:25:55,240 --> 00:25:57,800 CAR ENGINE ROARS 451 00:25:57,800 --> 00:25:59,480 'This is the Po Valley. 452 00:25:59,480 --> 00:26:03,000 'This fertile land has nourished the region's rich history 453 00:26:03,000 --> 00:26:04,720 'and fed the local culture, 454 00:26:04,720 --> 00:26:07,240 'both literally and metaphorically. 455 00:26:07,240 --> 00:26:11,040 'The beautiful River Po is the artery of Emilia-Romagna. 456 00:26:11,040 --> 00:26:15,560 'It has painted the region in a palette of swirling fog, 457 00:26:15,560 --> 00:26:19,320 'deep, dark soil and lush, arable farmland. 458 00:26:19,320 --> 00:26:22,440 'Many of the rich historical traditions of this region 459 00:26:22,440 --> 00:26:24,520 'stems from these waters. 460 00:26:24,520 --> 00:26:29,240 'This river is also the source of my best memory of Emilia-Romagna.' 461 00:26:29,240 --> 00:26:32,800 They tamed the land to grow what they want, 462 00:26:32,800 --> 00:26:34,800 and here they even tamed the sea. 463 00:26:35,960 --> 00:26:39,120 This is, like, something very special about it. 464 00:26:41,200 --> 00:26:45,400 'I wanted to show Andrew one of the great pastimes of the Po Valley, 465 00:26:45,400 --> 00:26:47,880 'with the land and the river as a backdrop.' 466 00:26:47,880 --> 00:26:49,880 Umberto! Oi? 467 00:26:51,800 --> 00:26:54,440 'The padellone is a traditional way of fishing, 468 00:26:54,440 --> 00:26:57,800 'where friends can get together to share in the peace 469 00:26:57,800 --> 00:27:01,040 'and tranquillity of this land, and get a meal too.' 470 00:27:01,040 --> 00:27:04,840 Buona sera! These are your soci? 471 00:27:08,840 --> 00:27:11,040 What's soci mean? 472 00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:15,480 Soci is because they all own this hut together. 473 00:27:15,480 --> 00:27:17,240 It's like going to the bar, isn't it? 474 00:27:17,240 --> 00:27:19,720 But it's a bit more secluded, it's more calm. 475 00:27:19,720 --> 00:27:21,920 It's like the golf club except with fish. 476 00:27:32,160 --> 00:27:35,440 But what I really want to know, I want to know how it works. 477 00:27:35,440 --> 00:27:38,240 How it works. If you push that one, the trick is done. 478 00:27:38,240 --> 00:27:40,240 SPEAKS IN ITALIAN 479 00:27:40,240 --> 00:27:43,120 Press? 480 00:27:43,120 --> 00:27:46,360 Press, OK. 481 00:27:46,360 --> 00:27:47,960 Oh, it's coming up. 482 00:27:47,960 --> 00:27:51,800 Look at that! Look how big it is. 483 00:27:51,800 --> 00:27:53,440 That is fabulous, look at that! 484 00:27:54,600 --> 00:27:57,680 Oh, look at the crab, can you see the crab? 485 00:27:57,680 --> 00:28:00,760 Ohhh, that's what we're going to eat. 486 00:28:02,400 --> 00:28:04,200 These are delicious! 487 00:28:05,760 --> 00:28:09,320 'The name "padellone" refers the shape of the nets, 488 00:28:09,320 --> 00:28:13,800 'which resemble the giant pan the fishermen fry their catch in.' 489 00:28:13,800 --> 00:28:17,200 This is baby red mullet. They're all different, you see. 490 00:28:17,200 --> 00:28:19,040 So you deep-fry these little chaps? 491 00:28:19,040 --> 00:28:23,120 That's it, you put a little bit of flour and you fry it, that's it. 492 00:28:23,120 --> 00:28:26,800 It's not a very difficult kind of fishing, I have to say. 493 00:28:26,800 --> 00:28:31,000 I think it's Italian people spending time together, 494 00:28:31,000 --> 00:28:33,440 it's about the drink and the food. 495 00:28:33,440 --> 00:28:35,920 The food always brings them together. 496 00:28:35,920 --> 00:28:38,160 JAUNTY ACCORDION MUSIC PLAYS 497 00:28:45,880 --> 00:28:48,640 'For honest working men, like Umberto and Banana, 498 00:28:48,640 --> 00:28:54,200 'this pause from life is typical of Emilia-Romagna, rooted in the place.' 499 00:28:54,200 --> 00:28:57,800 Semolino and a little bit of double zero flour, OK. 500 00:28:57,800 --> 00:28:59,280 So one sticks to it, 501 00:28:59,280 --> 00:29:02,480 the other one's going make it really, really crispy. 502 00:29:02,480 --> 00:29:04,560 Now the only place they jump is in the pot. 503 00:29:06,840 --> 00:29:08,720 How long do they take to cook, Giorgio? 504 00:29:08,720 --> 00:29:12,280 Very, very fast, they're going to cook in about maybe one minute. 505 00:29:12,280 --> 00:29:13,520 Very good. 506 00:29:15,280 --> 00:29:16,960 ALL LAUGH 507 00:29:16,960 --> 00:29:18,600 Attenzioni. 508 00:29:20,600 --> 00:29:23,200 You see, Andrew, I really wanted you to come and see this, 509 00:29:23,200 --> 00:29:24,720 because this is really, 510 00:29:24,720 --> 00:29:29,760 when we're talking about richness of this land, culture. 511 00:29:29,760 --> 00:29:34,720 And the real power of this land is really all these people 512 00:29:34,720 --> 00:29:39,080 and on this river that has brought down for thousand and thousand of years, 513 00:29:39,080 --> 00:29:41,160 this goodness from the Alps. 514 00:29:41,160 --> 00:29:44,800 And it's brought it down to them, and they've been here every day 515 00:29:44,800 --> 00:29:48,440 taking a little bit, with respect and with love. 516 00:29:48,440 --> 00:29:51,080 And, you know, look at the variety, the colour, the beauty 517 00:29:51,080 --> 00:29:52,320 and the abundance. 518 00:29:52,320 --> 00:29:54,720 This is what it's all about, Emilia-Romagna. 519 00:29:54,720 --> 00:29:56,720 MEN CHAT IN ITALIAN 520 00:29:56,720 --> 00:29:59,600 Andrew, per noi queste sono como le patatine, 521 00:29:59,600 --> 00:30:03,680 chips! This is like, like fried chips. Like fried chips! 522 00:30:03,680 --> 00:30:06,000 THEY LAUGH 523 00:30:10,640 --> 00:30:12,480 On the padellone, there's no stress, so... 524 00:30:18,560 --> 00:30:23,480 It's the culture that, you know, this is just a little step towards freedom, isn't it? 525 00:30:26,320 --> 00:30:29,560 THEY TOAST AND LAUGH 526 00:30:29,560 --> 00:30:31,800 The brindisi are getting more chaotic! 527 00:30:55,040 --> 00:30:57,480 'After a strong coffee, we're back on the road 528 00:30:57,480 --> 00:31:01,200 'and heading to the historical city of Ferrara.' 529 00:31:01,200 --> 00:31:04,200 I'm definitely slightly the worse for wear. 530 00:31:04,200 --> 00:31:07,120 These brindisi. That's fantastic. 531 00:31:07,120 --> 00:31:08,080 Brindisi! 532 00:31:08,080 --> 00:31:10,880 "Facciamo un brindisi!" 533 00:31:17,400 --> 00:31:20,840 'The city of Ferrara was built on the banks of the Po. 534 00:31:20,840 --> 00:31:23,920 'It was the stronghold of the Este dynasty who ruled here 535 00:31:23,920 --> 00:31:28,240 'for over 300 years until the end of the 16th century. 536 00:31:28,240 --> 00:31:32,480 'Like many dynasties, the Este used arts and architecture 537 00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:34,920 'to express their power and wealth.' 538 00:31:36,640 --> 00:31:40,520 I wanted you to see this arch, Giorgio, that was designed by Alberti, 539 00:31:40,520 --> 00:31:44,440 the father of Renaissance architecture. Yeah? 540 00:31:44,440 --> 00:31:48,280 And on the top is a statue of Nicolo III d'Este. 541 00:31:48,280 --> 00:31:51,760 GIORGIO SINGS 542 00:31:58,440 --> 00:32:02,040 I feel like I'm taking a reluctant eight-year-old on a tour 543 00:32:02,040 --> 00:32:04,560 round the architectural delights of Ferrara. Si, yes. 544 00:32:04,560 --> 00:32:06,760 I'll have to find something better for you, eh? 545 00:32:06,760 --> 00:32:07,960 It's all so nice and fresh. 546 00:32:07,960 --> 00:32:10,720 'Today, Ferrara is a bustling university town, 547 00:32:10,720 --> 00:32:13,720 'full of students and bicycles. 548 00:32:13,720 --> 00:32:19,880 'The university was established by Alberto V of the Este in 1391. 549 00:32:19,880 --> 00:32:23,000 'The Este invited artists, architects and scholars 550 00:32:23,000 --> 00:32:24,640 'from all over Europe. 551 00:32:24,640 --> 00:32:28,400 'Jewish bankers, persecuted elsewhere, were welcomed here - 552 00:32:28,400 --> 00:32:31,520 'in fact, the doors were flung open to all who could contribute 553 00:32:31,520 --> 00:32:34,600 'to making Ferrara powerful and successful.' 554 00:32:36,840 --> 00:32:40,280 If you came from anywhere else in Italy and you arrived here, 555 00:32:40,280 --> 00:32:42,720 you'd be like stumbling out of the Dark Ages 556 00:32:42,720 --> 00:32:46,320 into this new Renaissance idea of what is a city, 557 00:32:46,320 --> 00:32:48,400 you know, these wide streets. 558 00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:53,080 This was really the first emphatic expression of a very particular Renaissance idea 559 00:32:53,080 --> 00:32:56,440 which was...a planned town. 560 00:32:56,440 --> 00:32:58,560 You know, town planning. 561 00:32:58,560 --> 00:33:02,080 The medieval town just grows like an organism, 562 00:33:02,080 --> 00:33:05,040 and you end up with this labyrinth, where poor lives next to rich. 563 00:33:05,040 --> 00:33:06,480 Everything's a kind of chaos. 564 00:33:06,480 --> 00:33:08,160 Here in Ferrara, for the first time, 565 00:33:08,160 --> 00:33:11,400 the Este said, "No! We're not going to have that kind of city any more. 566 00:33:11,400 --> 00:33:16,040 "We're going to have a planned city - wide streets, but only for the rich." 567 00:33:16,040 --> 00:33:18,440 It's just lined with palaces in all directions 568 00:33:18,440 --> 00:33:22,760 and at the centre of it all, this thumping great expression of Este power, 569 00:33:22,760 --> 00:33:24,520 the Palazzo dei Diamanti, 570 00:33:24,520 --> 00:33:30,040 with these amazing kind of sharp diamonds of stone all over it, 571 00:33:30,040 --> 00:33:32,680 studded like a kind of piece of chain mail. 572 00:33:32,680 --> 00:33:35,560 I mean, there's nothing else like it in Renaissance architecture, 573 00:33:35,560 --> 00:33:39,160 not quite like this. Right. It looks very modern, isn't it, somehow? 574 00:33:39,160 --> 00:33:41,960 Yeah, I think it is - fascist architects looked at this building 575 00:33:41,960 --> 00:33:44,120 when they were designing in the '30s and '40s. 576 00:33:44,120 --> 00:33:47,080 They were looking at this kind of symmetry, this architecture of power. 577 00:33:47,080 --> 00:33:49,120 I think it's very beautiful, 578 00:33:49,120 --> 00:33:52,400 but I also think there's something slightly sinister about it. 579 00:33:52,400 --> 00:33:55,440 It's telling you if you're one of the Ferrarese poor, 580 00:33:55,440 --> 00:33:57,960 "Don't mess with us or we'll come down on you like a..." 581 00:33:57,960 --> 00:34:00,280 The fist will squash you? Yeah, yeah, absolutely. 582 00:34:02,360 --> 00:34:05,440 'In their heyday, the Este were as dominant as the Medici 583 00:34:05,440 --> 00:34:08,440 'and even married into other powerful dynasties, 584 00:34:08,440 --> 00:34:11,720 'including a notorious union with Lucrezia Borgia. 585 00:34:11,720 --> 00:34:16,320 'But in 1598, with no heir to continue the line, 586 00:34:16,320 --> 00:34:19,240 'Ferrara was claimed by the Papal States. 587 00:34:19,240 --> 00:34:22,440 'Today the Este dynasty is largely forgotten.' 588 00:34:23,960 --> 00:34:27,920 Because the Este lost the power battle, all of their buildings 589 00:34:27,920 --> 00:34:31,600 got stripped of their possessions, got taken to other places, 590 00:34:31,600 --> 00:34:35,000 so what we're left with is this beautiful, fantastic, 591 00:34:35,000 --> 00:34:38,480 but rather melancholy stage set - it's like the set of a play 592 00:34:38,480 --> 00:34:39,800 but all the actors have gone. 593 00:34:51,240 --> 00:34:54,360 'We are driving further west along the Po Valley to Modena. 594 00:34:57,400 --> 00:35:00,920 'This city is home to two of my favourite things, 595 00:35:00,920 --> 00:35:04,080 'balsamic vinegar and fast cars. 596 00:35:06,720 --> 00:35:10,600 'But it's also home to a truly heart-stopping work of art - 597 00:35:10,600 --> 00:35:14,840 'one that's rooted in the soil and the blood of this region.' 598 00:35:16,440 --> 00:35:18,320 I'm going to tell you a story. 599 00:35:18,320 --> 00:35:20,960 I'm going to give you a role in the story as well, if you don't mind? 600 00:35:20,960 --> 00:35:22,720 I've got a role in the story? Yeah. 601 00:35:22,720 --> 00:35:26,840 So you have to imagine that it's 1480, 602 00:35:26,840 --> 00:35:29,840 you've done something terrible, 603 00:35:29,840 --> 00:35:32,800 maybe you've tried to poison the Duke of the Este Dynasty, 604 00:35:32,800 --> 00:35:35,680 but you've been caught, and you've been sentenced to death. 605 00:35:35,680 --> 00:35:37,600 Now they're taking you down this street. 606 00:35:37,600 --> 00:35:40,880 Right. When you get to the end of the street, they're going to rip pieces 607 00:35:40,880 --> 00:35:43,880 of your flesh off with red hot pincers, they're going to hang you 608 00:35:43,880 --> 00:35:45,640 by the neck until you're dead. Right. 609 00:35:45,640 --> 00:35:47,800 But you've got some friends with you 610 00:35:47,800 --> 00:35:51,480 and they are the members of the local confraternity of the good death, 611 00:35:51,480 --> 00:35:54,280 and it's their job to make sure that you repent before you die. 612 00:35:54,280 --> 00:35:56,520 This is their church, they stop you here, 613 00:35:56,520 --> 00:36:00,360 and they bring you in because they want you to see one last thing. 614 00:36:00,360 --> 00:36:02,800 Before I die? Before you die. 615 00:36:02,800 --> 00:36:04,840 I would like to have a risotto before I die. 616 00:36:04,840 --> 00:36:07,880 Maybe you've had your last wish already, so assume you've had your risotto. 617 00:36:11,280 --> 00:36:15,400 This object is going to be the last thing 618 00:36:15,400 --> 00:36:18,920 that you should hold in your mind's eye if you want to save your soul. 619 00:36:29,600 --> 00:36:35,360 It was created in 1477 by an artist called Guido Mazzoni. 620 00:36:35,360 --> 00:36:36,400 What is it made of? 621 00:36:36,400 --> 00:36:39,560 It's made of terracotta. No! 622 00:36:39,560 --> 00:36:43,200 Yeah, it's made of the same earth of Emilia-Romagna 623 00:36:43,200 --> 00:36:47,280 from which all the things that we've been eating grow. 624 00:36:47,280 --> 00:36:52,560 So the idea behind the sculpture is that you are going to your death 625 00:36:52,560 --> 00:36:55,760 and I, as a member of the company of the good death, 626 00:36:55,760 --> 00:36:58,280 want you to have as good a death as possible. 627 00:36:58,280 --> 00:37:03,120 And that if you look as Christ's dead figure 628 00:37:03,120 --> 00:37:07,680 lying while Mary the Madonna grieves over him, 629 00:37:07,680 --> 00:37:11,840 while Mary Magdalene twists her face into this scream of anguish, 630 00:37:11,840 --> 00:37:16,680 somehow this emotion will transmit from that sculpture into you, 631 00:37:16,680 --> 00:37:20,200 and that you will feel these things in your heart... 632 00:37:20,200 --> 00:37:22,840 and you will be moved to turn to the priest 633 00:37:22,840 --> 00:37:26,480 who accompanies you on the scaffold, you will confess. 634 00:37:26,480 --> 00:37:28,080 And maybe, just maybe, 635 00:37:28,080 --> 00:37:30,720 this sculpture may help to save your soul. 636 00:37:42,520 --> 00:37:46,560 I think it does achieve what it set out for, doesn't it? 637 00:37:48,400 --> 00:37:52,880 'These sculptures are refined and sophisticated, 638 00:37:52,880 --> 00:37:55,200 'yet unashamedly proud of their roots, 639 00:37:55,200 --> 00:38:01,000 'having grown out of the humblest of materials - the Emilia-Romagna clay itself.' 640 00:38:02,200 --> 00:38:04,440 Andiamo. Andiamo. 641 00:38:07,200 --> 00:38:09,400 Well, you can step out of character now. 642 00:38:15,240 --> 00:38:17,160 'What draws me most to this region 643 00:38:17,160 --> 00:38:20,080 'is the beautiful produce that grows out of this soil. 644 00:38:25,160 --> 00:38:29,040 'For 25 years, I've been buying balsamic vinegar tradizionale 645 00:38:29,040 --> 00:38:30,960 'from the Aggazzotti family, 646 00:38:30,960 --> 00:38:34,720 'but until now, I've never met my supplier, Ettore Aggazzotti.' 647 00:38:44,480 --> 00:38:47,920 This is the place where it all happens. 648 00:38:47,920 --> 00:38:50,000 The produce transforms itself 649 00:38:50,000 --> 00:38:55,360 and becomes balsamic vinegar tradizionale. 650 00:38:55,360 --> 00:38:57,720 The real deal. The real deal. 651 00:38:57,720 --> 00:39:01,920 'The Aggazzotti family has been making vinegar since 1714. 652 00:39:01,920 --> 00:39:05,600 'The family has perfected the art of creating a symphony of flavour 653 00:39:05,600 --> 00:39:08,240 'out of the most modest of ingredients. 654 00:39:08,240 --> 00:39:11,320 'Grapes, patience and a colony of bacteria 655 00:39:11,320 --> 00:39:13,880 that vinegar producers call "the mother".' 656 00:39:19,600 --> 00:39:21,800 The mother is a colony of bacteria. 657 00:39:24,760 --> 00:39:26,960 They keep on reforming itself. 658 00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:29,400 Right, so what does the mother do to this liquid? 659 00:39:29,400 --> 00:39:31,120 The natural sugar that there is inside, 660 00:39:31,120 --> 00:39:33,080 the mother transform the sugar into vinegar. 661 00:39:33,080 --> 00:39:36,200 Bacteria does that by sort of eating it. That's right. 662 00:39:36,200 --> 00:39:40,440 So the mother bacteria colony that you still use in every batch... 663 00:39:40,440 --> 00:39:41,560 Every years. 664 00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:43,400 ..was actually first sort of created 665 00:39:43,400 --> 00:39:46,240 and it's still the same bacteria family that's doing it? 666 00:39:46,240 --> 00:39:50,880 Exactly, and this is... That's exactly what the value would be. 667 00:39:50,880 --> 00:39:54,160 The value of the acetaia is on the value of the mother. 668 00:39:54,160 --> 00:39:56,280 If you start tomorrow, you're going to have to wait 669 00:39:56,280 --> 00:39:57,800 quite a long time before... Right. 670 00:39:59,360 --> 00:40:03,320 'Balsamic vinegar is often swept aside as a simple condiment 671 00:40:03,320 --> 00:40:06,760 'that you use to dip your bread in or throw over a salad. 672 00:40:06,760 --> 00:40:12,440 'But balsamic vinegar tradizionale is very different to normal balsamic vinegar. 673 00:40:12,440 --> 00:40:18,920 'And that's why this tiny bottle of 25-year-old vinegar costs 250 euros.' 674 00:40:18,920 --> 00:40:23,400 The aging factor, I think, is a typical expression of this land - 675 00:40:23,400 --> 00:40:28,680 this patience, this idea of, "I can wait to have something fantastic." 676 00:40:39,400 --> 00:40:43,720 Hmm, that is fantastic, the sweet with the salt, 677 00:40:43,720 --> 00:40:45,120 it's even more intense. 678 00:40:45,120 --> 00:40:49,640 It takes 25 years to get the balsamic out of that barrel, doesn't it? 679 00:40:49,640 --> 00:40:52,440 After 25 years, we actually managed to meet each other. 680 00:40:52,440 --> 00:40:56,960 Well, here's to both of you - Ettore, Giorgio. Salute! 681 00:40:56,960 --> 00:40:59,960 Brindiamo. Facciamo un brindisi! 682 00:40:59,960 --> 00:41:02,480 'This trip to Modena is a dream for me. 683 00:41:02,480 --> 00:41:07,360 'First I get to meet Ettore and now I get to satisfy my second love, 684 00:41:07,360 --> 00:41:08,720 'fast cars. 685 00:41:12,920 --> 00:41:15,480 'Modena is the home to Enzo Ferrari, 686 00:41:15,480 --> 00:41:19,840 'and we can't come here without going to visit the new Ferrari museum, 687 00:41:19,840 --> 00:41:22,360 'a testament to his life's work. 688 00:41:22,360 --> 00:41:26,360 'He was obsessed with racing since childhood, and he turned his dream 689 00:41:26,360 --> 00:41:29,840 'into a quest to build the ultimate racing machine. 690 00:41:29,840 --> 00:41:32,240 'Today, Ferrari is famous worldwide. 691 00:41:34,360 --> 00:41:38,120 'Enzo's original workshop and office, founded here in 1929, 692 00:41:38,120 --> 00:41:39,600 'is still standing, 693 00:41:39,600 --> 00:41:43,840 'sheltered by this spectacular museum designed by architect Jan Kaplicky. 694 00:41:45,680 --> 00:41:49,320 'It's a perfect demonstration of how tradition meets modernity 695 00:41:49,320 --> 00:41:52,000 'and technology in this region.' 696 00:41:52,000 --> 00:41:54,800 It's all white, it's like an art gallery, the cars are on plinths. 697 00:41:54,800 --> 00:41:56,560 So beautiful, aren't they? 698 00:41:56,560 --> 00:41:59,480 I think cars deserve to be looked at in terms of, you know... 699 00:41:59,480 --> 00:42:02,480 Especially these cars, look at that beautiful shape... 700 00:42:02,480 --> 00:42:03,920 an aeroplane, almost. 701 00:42:03,920 --> 00:42:08,040 Well, it's funny, I mean we're looking at these cars as if they're sculptures, 702 00:42:08,040 --> 00:42:10,560 but they do actually look like sculptures of the 1940s. 703 00:42:10,560 --> 00:42:12,880 If you think of Henry Moore if you think of Arc... Yes. 704 00:42:12,880 --> 00:42:15,120 That sort of biomorphic that was in the air, 705 00:42:15,120 --> 00:42:17,560 so even the cars are like that. 706 00:42:17,560 --> 00:42:20,400 Even if you're ugly, you look good on this one. 707 00:42:20,400 --> 00:42:24,080 Ferrari seems to me to be the man who almost literally 708 00:42:24,080 --> 00:42:26,840 gives Italy the engine to drive into the future. 709 00:42:29,160 --> 00:42:34,560 'Emilia-Romagna has also given the world Ducati, Maserati, Lamborghini. 710 00:42:34,560 --> 00:42:37,640 'What a roll call for one fairly small region.' 711 00:42:39,080 --> 00:42:43,560 This real modern aesthetic and this culture of design. 712 00:42:43,560 --> 00:42:46,000 Why do you think it flourished in Northern Italy? 713 00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:48,240 I think it's the passion and the drive. 714 00:42:48,240 --> 00:42:51,480 You know, they want to show everybody they could do something 715 00:42:51,480 --> 00:42:54,600 really great, they dream about being. 716 00:42:54,600 --> 00:42:58,160 That's what Enzo Ferrari used to say, "I dream about being Ferrari, 717 00:42:58,160 --> 00:43:03,080 "I dreamt to be Ferrari and I become Ferrari, you know, I dreamt it." 718 00:43:03,080 --> 00:43:06,880 Can you imagine how strong he must have been feeling to dream about it? 719 00:43:06,880 --> 00:43:10,800 No more Medici, no more... No more Medici, no more Este, no more that! 720 00:43:10,800 --> 00:43:13,640 They took the mantle on, and they took it on through 721 00:43:13,640 --> 00:43:17,680 showing something that they could do. So they went forwards with that. 722 00:43:17,680 --> 00:43:19,280 This is so important. 723 00:43:23,360 --> 00:43:26,200 'But these cars weren't just made to be looked at, 724 00:43:26,200 --> 00:43:27,840 'they were designed to be driven. 725 00:43:30,040 --> 00:43:34,280 'Every aspect of these cars is the product of craftsmanship. 726 00:43:34,280 --> 00:43:38,200 'Even today, every engine is signed by the mechanic who put it together.' 727 00:43:41,480 --> 00:43:45,680 I'm crying, it was so good! Oh, that was so good! 728 00:43:45,680 --> 00:43:47,120 HE LAUGHS 729 00:43:47,120 --> 00:43:48,560 You enjoyed it? 730 00:43:48,560 --> 00:43:50,280 Oh, yes, Giorgio, I enjoyed it(!) 731 00:43:50,280 --> 00:43:52,200 GIORGIO LAUGHS 732 00:43:52,200 --> 00:43:53,960 I feel my blood is going round! 733 00:44:01,800 --> 00:44:06,760 'Finally, we arrive in Parma, our last stop in Emilia-Romagna. 734 00:44:06,760 --> 00:44:10,280 'This town is famous for the highest-quality delicacies - 735 00:44:10,280 --> 00:44:12,720 'Parma ham, Parmesan cheese. 736 00:44:12,720 --> 00:44:15,960 'And quality control has become a business, too. 737 00:44:15,960 --> 00:44:20,240 'The EU has based its Food Standards Agency in this tiny town.' 738 00:44:20,240 --> 00:44:23,360 Baptistry, Archbishops' Palace, Cathedral. 739 00:44:23,360 --> 00:44:26,160 Beautiful Romanesque cathedral. 740 00:44:26,160 --> 00:44:28,600 'It's not just the food that's world class.' 741 00:44:28,600 --> 00:44:32,640 Giorgio, after you. One of the world's great buildings. 742 00:44:34,280 --> 00:44:37,520 And how cool is it?! It's like instant air conditioning, 743 00:44:37,520 --> 00:44:40,520 you come out of 40 degrees heat and here, you can relax, 744 00:44:40,520 --> 00:44:42,440 you can enjoy, you can see. 745 00:44:42,440 --> 00:44:46,440 'Here in Parma's cathedral is one of the most innovative, 746 00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:49,480 'awe-inspiring works of art of the whole Renaissance.' 747 00:44:50,720 --> 00:44:54,200 So in the 1520s, Antonio Allegri, 748 00:44:54,200 --> 00:44:59,640 detto il Correggio was commissioned to paint the dome of the cathedral. 749 00:45:04,640 --> 00:45:08,760 Right now, you look up to the dome. 750 00:45:08,760 --> 00:45:11,440 Wow! 751 00:45:11,440 --> 00:45:14,440 And it's showing us the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, 752 00:45:14,440 --> 00:45:18,640 she's being whooshed into heaven after her death. 753 00:45:18,640 --> 00:45:22,400 And she's going to meet her son, Jesus Christ, in heaven. 754 00:45:25,480 --> 00:45:31,240 It's so uplifting, isn't it? it goes like whoosh. Like a spiral. 755 00:45:31,240 --> 00:45:32,960 Unbelievable. 756 00:45:37,040 --> 00:45:39,680 It's a painting that's meant to make you feel 757 00:45:39,680 --> 00:45:42,080 as if you are being whirled up to heaven. 758 00:45:42,080 --> 00:45:46,600 It does. It does. It really feels like it's lifting you up. 759 00:45:46,600 --> 00:45:50,440 Levitation. But what's amazing about this is that it's ten years 760 00:45:50,440 --> 00:45:54,480 after Michelangelo has finished the Sistine Chapel. 761 00:45:54,480 --> 00:45:56,320 And the people in Parma think, 762 00:45:56,320 --> 00:45:58,960 "We're not going to be outdone by those Romans." 763 00:45:58,960 --> 00:46:01,000 So what they do, this is not a ceiling. 764 00:46:01,000 --> 00:46:04,440 This is not a ceiling, this a dome. 765 00:46:04,440 --> 00:46:06,680 In the past, if they painted a dome, 766 00:46:06,680 --> 00:46:09,720 they just painted it blue with gold stars - heaven. 767 00:46:09,720 --> 00:46:12,360 Correggio set himself the challenge 768 00:46:12,360 --> 00:46:15,320 to paint the Madonna entering heaven. 769 00:46:15,320 --> 00:46:18,040 Was he really appreciated for this? Did people love it? 770 00:46:18,040 --> 00:46:20,120 Well, this is the terrible paradox. 771 00:46:20,120 --> 00:46:23,920 Titian, supposedly the greatest painter in the history of painting... 772 00:46:23,920 --> 00:46:24,960 Right. 773 00:46:24,960 --> 00:46:27,880 ..he heard about this and he looked at it and said, 774 00:46:27,880 --> 00:46:33,520 "This is incredible. You couldn't pay Correggio enough for this. 775 00:46:33,520 --> 00:46:37,640 "In fact, if you turned that dome upside-down and made it into a bowl, 776 00:46:37,640 --> 00:46:40,600 "and filled it with gold, it wouldn't be enough money." 777 00:46:43,120 --> 00:46:46,480 But the tragedy of it is that the patron, 778 00:46:46,480 --> 00:46:50,960 the Canon of the Cathedral, who was obviously a very conservative man, 779 00:46:50,960 --> 00:46:56,040 he simply said, "It looks like a stew of frog's legs." 780 00:46:56,040 --> 00:46:57,080 He didn't? 781 00:46:57,080 --> 00:47:01,320 That was his judgment, and Correggio finished it in 1530, 782 00:47:01,320 --> 00:47:03,760 it took him eight years from start to end, 783 00:47:03,760 --> 00:47:07,200 he never got another commission in Parma. No! 784 00:47:07,200 --> 00:47:11,880 So it was like, "Thank you very much but no thank you." No way. 785 00:47:13,080 --> 00:47:16,560 Bellissima. Grazie, andiamo. 786 00:47:16,560 --> 00:47:18,240 Prego, prego. 787 00:47:22,640 --> 00:47:24,520 'Just a little way out of Parma 788 00:47:24,520 --> 00:47:28,280 'is my great friend Massimo Spigaroli's farm. 789 00:47:28,280 --> 00:47:30,600 'Parma is famous for its dried ham 790 00:47:30,600 --> 00:47:34,400 'and I think Massimo's Culatello di Zibello is definitely 791 00:47:34,400 --> 00:47:36,320 'some of the best in the world. 792 00:47:36,320 --> 00:47:38,680 'Culatello is a type of Parma ham 793 00:47:38,680 --> 00:47:41,600 'only made with the finest cut of pork rump.' 794 00:47:41,600 --> 00:47:43,920 So, Massimo, what do we use? 795 00:47:43,920 --> 00:47:46,760 It's very, very simple. Salt, pepper... 796 00:47:46,760 --> 00:47:48,000 Salt and pepper. 797 00:47:48,000 --> 00:47:53,320 ..garlic, red wine Fontana, territorio, the bladder. 798 00:47:53,320 --> 00:47:57,160 Pig's bladder. Pig's bladder, meat pig. 799 00:47:57,160 --> 00:48:03,480 Meat from the pig, which is a rump, it's the culatello. 800 00:48:03,480 --> 00:48:08,920 What makes this recipe is the fog, is the silent. 801 00:48:08,920 --> 00:48:12,400 These are the ingredients as well of this pig, isn't it? 802 00:48:12,400 --> 00:48:14,040 E tempo - time. 803 00:48:14,040 --> 00:48:18,880 And time, time is what plays, like for the balsamic vinegar, 804 00:48:18,880 --> 00:48:22,120 again the master of time, the master of time. 805 00:48:22,120 --> 00:48:25,600 When they make Ferraris, they master time when they make culatello. 806 00:48:25,600 --> 00:48:28,760 They know how to wait for something 807 00:48:28,760 --> 00:48:32,520 that gets better and better and better. 808 00:48:32,520 --> 00:48:35,560 'The meat is massaged with garlic, and wine, 809 00:48:35,560 --> 00:48:40,120 'then it's covered with salt. 810 00:48:40,120 --> 00:48:44,880 'Finally, it's wrapped tightly in a pig's bladder. 811 00:48:44,880 --> 00:48:47,960 'It's a technique that hasn't changed for centuries.' 812 00:48:47,960 --> 00:48:50,160 That's the same way that his grandfather 813 00:48:50,160 --> 00:48:53,560 used to make culatello for Giuseppe Verdi. What? 814 00:48:53,560 --> 00:48:57,880 Giuseppe Verdi, you know, he used to buy culatello from his grandfather. 815 00:48:57,880 --> 00:49:01,600 This is where, actually, the artisan is king, you know. 816 00:49:01,600 --> 00:49:03,840 Fantastic. How long will it be hanging? 817 00:49:03,840 --> 00:49:07,880 It can stay up to two or three years without any problem. 818 00:49:07,880 --> 00:49:10,480 'When it's ready, it's down to the cellar.' 819 00:49:14,760 --> 00:49:17,400 I can smell it. 820 00:49:17,400 --> 00:49:19,440 The march of the pig leads here. 821 00:49:19,440 --> 00:49:21,080 This is the paradise of the pig. 822 00:49:21,080 --> 00:49:25,560 'This cellar has been used to cure culatello for nearly 700 years.' 823 00:49:25,560 --> 00:49:27,600 They're like sleeping bats. 824 00:49:27,600 --> 00:49:31,880 Look at that. Massimo questo e bellissimo. 825 00:49:31,880 --> 00:49:35,280 Questo e il paradiso del maiale, eh? Pig paradise. 826 00:49:35,280 --> 00:49:37,320 Have you seen? Look, Giorgio. 827 00:49:37,320 --> 00:49:39,320 Are these the names of the clients? 828 00:49:39,320 --> 00:49:42,440 E qui e Principe Carlo. That's Prince Charles's one? 829 00:49:42,440 --> 00:49:46,480 And look at that - Prince Albert of Monaco. 830 00:49:46,480 --> 00:49:48,680 Armani! 831 00:49:48,680 --> 00:49:51,440 Giorgio Armani has a culatello. And look at that. 832 00:49:51,440 --> 00:49:54,560 'This cellar is like a perfectly honed machine. 833 00:49:54,560 --> 00:49:58,840 'To work best, Massimo must keep exactly 5,000 culatello 834 00:49:58,840 --> 00:50:00,880 'hanging in here.' 835 00:50:00,880 --> 00:50:05,560 He decides every day how much to open or close the window. 836 00:50:05,560 --> 00:50:08,360 Depend on the temperature, depend on the humidity. 837 00:50:08,360 --> 00:50:14,400 So the fresh air will come in with the fog, the humidity, 838 00:50:14,400 --> 00:50:18,480 and this activates the noble white mould that gives 839 00:50:18,480 --> 00:50:22,040 that characteristic flavour to the cured meat. 840 00:50:22,040 --> 00:50:25,880 This is the last ingredients coming naturally through the window, 841 00:50:25,880 --> 00:50:30,280 and the man decides how much to expose the culatello to. 842 00:50:45,360 --> 00:50:48,640 Oooh, that's a perfume of history. Posso. 843 00:50:48,640 --> 00:50:50,920 Smell that. 844 00:50:54,320 --> 00:50:57,320 If a woman smelled like that, would be my lover. 845 00:50:58,680 --> 00:51:02,000 Speak for yourself! 846 00:51:09,120 --> 00:51:11,560 We're going to eat it before we get back to London, 847 00:51:11,560 --> 00:51:14,480 I'm not letting you away with that. 848 00:51:16,040 --> 00:51:18,720 'How wonderful that something as simple as fog, 849 00:51:18,720 --> 00:51:23,960 'or even silence, can generate such incredible flavour. 850 00:51:23,960 --> 00:51:26,560 'I've been struck for the first time on this trip that 851 00:51:26,560 --> 00:51:29,440 'the features of the landscape are actually just as important 852 00:51:29,440 --> 00:51:31,160 'to the art of the region. 853 00:51:31,160 --> 00:51:34,000 'The fog that swirls through Correggio's fresco 854 00:51:34,000 --> 00:51:39,400 'in Parma Cathedral, just as it swirls around Massimo's cellar.' 855 00:51:43,640 --> 00:51:47,880 'Centuries-old traditions are vital to this region's livelihood, 856 00:51:47,880 --> 00:51:50,400 'even today. 857 00:51:50,400 --> 00:51:54,040 'So preserving them is important to everyone who lives here. 858 00:51:54,040 --> 00:51:58,080 'Parma's Palatine library contains a rare historical treasure 859 00:51:58,080 --> 00:52:00,680 'that I'm desperate to get a peek at.' 860 00:52:00,680 --> 00:52:04,400 Wow, that is what I call a library. That's fantastic. 861 00:52:04,400 --> 00:52:07,680 'This book is one of the earliest existing Italian recipe books, 862 00:52:07,680 --> 00:52:10,560 'written in 1680 by Carlo Nascia, 863 00:52:10,560 --> 00:52:14,000 'who was private chef to the Duke Ranuccio Farnese. 864 00:52:14,000 --> 00:52:18,000 'This 400-year-old manuscript has recently been restored.' 865 00:52:18,000 --> 00:52:20,400 This book is very important. 866 00:52:20,400 --> 00:52:26,280 It really tells you what the cookery of that time was like. 867 00:52:26,280 --> 00:52:29,000 Obviously, this is not the cookery of the poor people, 868 00:52:29,000 --> 00:52:32,600 this is the cookery of the rich. The recipes are very simply written, 869 00:52:32,600 --> 00:52:35,200 but it's a very intelligent book 870 00:52:35,200 --> 00:52:38,480 because he has a reference to French food, 871 00:52:38,480 --> 00:52:41,280 he has a reference to Far East food. 872 00:52:41,280 --> 00:52:46,000 So it shows you how sophisticated they were on their taste. 873 00:52:46,000 --> 00:52:47,240 Even that long time ago. 874 00:52:47,240 --> 00:52:50,080 Some of these recipes have just caught my eye, look. 875 00:52:50,080 --> 00:52:52,720 Don't touch it... Mi dispiace! 876 00:52:52,720 --> 00:52:55,760 You been to Oxford and you should know that you don't touch 877 00:52:55,760 --> 00:52:58,400 a manuscript, I touch it because I got the gloves. 878 00:52:58,400 --> 00:52:59,840 So get your hands off. 879 00:52:59,840 --> 00:53:03,680 For one time, can I look intelligent and you look like a peasant? 880 00:53:03,680 --> 00:53:07,120 For one time, you know, please, you know. I got the gloves. 881 00:53:12,040 --> 00:53:18,120 Pasticcio di lombo, pasticcio di carne, le torte diverse. 882 00:53:18,120 --> 00:53:20,440 'The Farnese Dukes of the 17th century 883 00:53:20,440 --> 00:53:23,880 'would use these astounding banquets as political tools, 884 00:53:23,880 --> 00:53:27,840 'demonstrating their power and wealth to visiting dignitaries 885 00:53:27,840 --> 00:53:29,880 'who'd be left in awe and wonder.' 886 00:53:29,880 --> 00:53:34,160 This is amazing and the smell of this book, it smells of the kitchen. 887 00:53:34,160 --> 00:53:35,960 Smell it. 888 00:53:35,960 --> 00:53:38,640 'For chefs like Carlo Nascia and Pellegrino Artusi, 889 00:53:38,640 --> 00:53:41,280 'food is not just something to fill up your belly.' 890 00:53:41,280 --> 00:53:42,680 It smells of the kitchen. 891 00:53:42,680 --> 00:53:48,760 'It can also feed the mind and be used to great intellectual ends.' 892 00:53:48,760 --> 00:53:52,240 This is what modern cookery is all about 893 00:53:52,240 --> 00:53:55,080 and this is how we start to learn, 894 00:53:55,080 --> 00:53:59,560 when people like that start to write these books. 895 00:53:59,560 --> 00:54:02,880 'This book has been restored by a group of very special ladies 896 00:54:02,880 --> 00:54:06,360 'who call themselves the Fornello Dining Club. 897 00:54:06,360 --> 00:54:09,600 'They want to ensure that these recipes are kept alive. 898 00:54:09,600 --> 00:54:11,920 'And most importantly, enjoyed! 899 00:54:14,360 --> 00:54:17,720 'For our last meal in Emilia-Romagna they've invited us 900 00:54:17,720 --> 00:54:20,480 'to try out one of Nascia's recipes.' 901 00:54:20,480 --> 00:54:23,200 I'm going to cook something for you, 902 00:54:23,200 --> 00:54:28,600 which is this really special dish, that is the Rosa di Parma. Si. 903 00:54:28,600 --> 00:54:32,360 Very simple ingredients, the fillet steak. Filetto. 904 00:54:32,360 --> 00:54:36,320 Filetto. Aperto. Open up, butterflied open, then we've got some garlic, 905 00:54:36,320 --> 00:54:42,480 some rosemary, some Parma ham, some Parmesan and again... 906 00:54:42,480 --> 00:54:45,760 Lambrusco. Lambrusco. 907 00:54:56,840 --> 00:54:59,880 'Without the efforts of these women, 908 00:54:59,880 --> 00:55:03,120 'this recipe and many others would have been lost forever. 909 00:55:19,640 --> 00:55:22,520 'The fillet is stuffed with Parmesan cheese and Parma ham, 910 00:55:22,520 --> 00:55:24,640 'then rolled and tied.' 911 00:55:24,640 --> 00:55:27,160 Quanto. 912 00:55:35,240 --> 00:55:38,480 Yeah, I love the way the cheese mixes in with the Parma ham 913 00:55:38,480 --> 00:55:41,800 and you get this sweet flavour, and then the wine kicks in. 914 00:55:41,800 --> 00:55:44,760 That's right. With the cream, I mean, this is rich food. 915 00:55:44,760 --> 00:55:49,440 This book proved that the banqueting was something that was not just 916 00:55:49,440 --> 00:55:53,880 about food, was about showing your power, your understanding 917 00:55:53,880 --> 00:55:57,560 of who was sitting around the table, what they were going to eat, 918 00:55:57,560 --> 00:56:01,480 and show them your understanding of the world that surrounds you, 919 00:56:01,480 --> 00:56:05,680 to get things from Genoa, to get things from Venice, from Sicily. 920 00:56:05,680 --> 00:56:07,920 That was a show of power. 921 00:56:07,920 --> 00:56:10,920 Cheers, everybody! 922 00:56:10,920 --> 00:56:13,640 'These ladies might be just a bit more glamorous 923 00:56:13,640 --> 00:56:15,520 'than our friends at the fishing hut, 924 00:56:15,520 --> 00:56:17,680 'but the sentiment is the same. 925 00:56:17,680 --> 00:56:21,480 'To keep the heritage and traditions of this region alive. 926 00:56:28,440 --> 00:56:31,920 'Emilia-Romagna is where centuries-old traditions 927 00:56:31,920 --> 00:56:34,120 'have met with the modern world. 928 00:56:34,120 --> 00:56:37,400 'The people here know how to appreciate the silence 929 00:56:37,400 --> 00:56:40,640 'with the speed, richness with simplicity, 930 00:56:40,640 --> 00:56:44,480 'and always with an eye to enjoying life.' 931 00:56:44,480 --> 00:56:48,080 One of the things I was struck by, particularly in Bologna, 932 00:56:48,080 --> 00:56:50,720 which for me was a great rediscovery, 933 00:56:50,720 --> 00:56:55,680 was the extent to which people doing relatively modest occupations 934 00:56:55,680 --> 00:57:00,560 like making pasta or being a barber, managed to carve out for themselves 935 00:57:00,560 --> 00:57:03,400 this fantastic environment to work in. 936 00:57:03,400 --> 00:57:06,080 They've kept that tradition of the small... 937 00:57:06,080 --> 00:57:08,080 Respect of the working person. 938 00:57:08,080 --> 00:57:11,200 Yes, there doesn't have to be a multinational company, 939 00:57:11,200 --> 00:57:13,520 you can stay small and it will still work. 940 00:57:13,520 --> 00:57:16,160 What do you think your abiding memories will be 941 00:57:16,160 --> 00:57:18,240 of this trip through Emilia-Romagna? 942 00:57:18,240 --> 00:57:22,480 Oh, for me, it was just incredible to see these people 943 00:57:22,480 --> 00:57:26,080 and they got such a joy of life on one side, 944 00:57:26,080 --> 00:57:28,600 almost like the southern, you know. 945 00:57:28,600 --> 00:57:35,320 And then on the other side, you have this absolutely tough work ethic. 946 00:57:35,320 --> 00:57:38,120 They can wait for their produce. 947 00:57:38,120 --> 00:57:41,480 You mean the joy of the south and the work ethic of the north... 948 00:57:41,480 --> 00:57:44,120 That's right. Fused. 949 00:57:44,120 --> 00:57:46,840 This theme of patience or, you know, taking a long time 950 00:57:46,840 --> 00:57:49,880 to get something just right, I think it's true of the art as well. 951 00:57:49,880 --> 00:57:53,960 Do you remember that amazing dome painted by Correggio? 952 00:57:53,960 --> 00:57:58,040 Oh, my favourite thing. That was my favourite thing ever! 953 00:57:58,040 --> 00:57:59,440 I never seen anything like that, 954 00:57:59,440 --> 00:58:01,920 that's much better than the Sistine Chapel. 955 00:58:01,920 --> 00:58:05,680 You think that's much better than the Sistine Chapel? Much better! 956 00:58:05,680 --> 00:58:08,360 Spoken like a true northern Italian. 957 00:58:08,360 --> 00:58:11,520 So where are we going to go next? I'm going to take you to Lombardy. 958 00:58:11,520 --> 00:58:13,640 I'm going to take you to my region, 959 00:58:13,640 --> 00:58:15,880 my view of the world started from there. 960 00:58:15,880 --> 00:58:18,520 I want you to have a look at it from that as well. 961 00:58:18,520 --> 00:58:21,160 So Giorgio's going home. Andiamo. 962 00:58:21,160 --> 00:58:23,400 Andiamo. Push down on the accelerator! 963 00:58:43,920 --> 00:58:45,560 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 82804

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