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It is the beginning of the end of our story.
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The final chapter of a river that has run its course.
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They walk as if to the end of the world
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on a journey to nowhere.
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This ancient land is where the water turns to salt,
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the air burns on the inhale,
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and everything seems to wait to exhale.
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What little water is left
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is as dangerous as it is a salvation --
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because it is a distraction.
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A place where someone's mistake is someone else's lifeline.
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A mistaken burst of energy can change your destiny.
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This extraordinary realm
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is the ancient extension of the Okavango,
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a river of dreams.
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The next and final chapter of our story
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of the great Okavango in Botswana
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is where its fingers clutch onto life,
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as the water touches the desert,
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where paradise turns into an inferno.
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Each droplet is a jewel that holds
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the fate of a small part of all life here.
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It is the story of movement.
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Everyone is on the move.
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Like fragile porcelain, this part of the delta
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is vulnerable to the smallest change --
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in water, in temperature,
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and from the swirling influences of tiny animals.
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Red billed quelea in their millions start to flock.
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These are the most abundant birds on the whole planet.
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A single super-flock of quelea
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can devour twenty tons of feed a day,
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and that changes everything here.
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The quelea will change the lives of the nearby leopard family,
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as the flock strips the grasses down to bare sand.
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The little female's brother has less time for such reflections,
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he is more interested in how things work in the world.
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Like the bees, returning laden with pollen.
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He hasn't learned the dangers of being curious yet.
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Bee-eaters swoop in to take advantage.
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Bored with killer bees,
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he takes to irritating his more serious twin sister.
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It's the season of the sausage tree flowers.
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Good for bees...
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and the ideal place for the twin's mother to hang out.
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She's not resting, she's waiting for the fallen flowers
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to attract attention.
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Usually, leopards catch just once in every 5 attempts,
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but by using this sausage tree technique,
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she has a much higher success rate.
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It's also why we call her "Moporoto" --
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the local name for sausage tree.
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The cubs are developing their own killing skills,
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but by watching Moporoto, they might understand
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exactly what these flowers can give them.
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Rest is impossible, so within minutes,
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she heads back to the trees.
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The throat hold makes it a silent death.
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Stealth after the kill is as important as before
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for one of the smallest of the big cats.
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In this complex mosaic of the Okavango,
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bigger predators and scavengers stride
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across the landscape as if they own it.
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They do own it.
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Here, the water separates into streams and rivulets,
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winding fingers that cut through the grassland
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and sausage tree islands.
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The lions are in search of shade,
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but the breeze has hints of the smell of meat on it.
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If the cubs panic, they could slip.
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It would end their story.
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The lions want the kill, but just can't get to it.
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Thankfully, the lions have their own cubs,
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and the massive sausage pods distract them.
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Their fascination with the woody pods
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is a mystery to the leopard cubs.
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But from now on, their lives will be intertwined
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with all these other predators,
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because the Okavango has one of the highest densities
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of carnivores in Africa.
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And they're periodically thrown together by the flood.
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There is a chill in the morning air now,
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but during the day, the temperature starts to rise.
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This signals the start of the dry season,
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when the channels begin to shrink.
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Oxygen levels drop.
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The fish that recognize that turn and head back upstream.
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Those that leave it just too late get cut off, isolated.
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The birds harvest tons of fish each year.
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Their collective and organized feeding frenzy
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will clean out a pool in just a few days.
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But all the way down the delta, right to the end fingers,
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these fish traps provide for one of the greatest diversities
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of water birds in Africa.
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Being able to move is critical to survival at the fringes,
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where water supply is fickle during this part of the year.
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When the feed above ground is depleted,
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elephants go in search of a new protein source.
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They start mining the rhizomes and grass roots
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buried in the sand.
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In the dry season,
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the entire value of the grasses is stored below the surface.
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Local residents have to protest to stay safe.
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A pack of painted dogs have a small problem today...
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Actually, 16 problems...
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Having this many puppies causes a problem
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because only one female in the pack is allowed to breed.
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So, the Alpha female has stolen her sisters puppies...
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but she's struggling to feed them all.
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It's a free-for-all, but she refuses to share
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this burden of motherhood or abandon any pups.
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The headache for the alpha male is that
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they're going to be called on to hunt twice a day now,
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and they're already exhausted.
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So is the river.
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After its nearly thousand-mile journey,
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the full thrust of the flood has ended.
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The water flow settles and starts to seep in.
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Even sleeping giants can be woken by a small niggling voice.
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It's a nudge that starts a ripple effect of movement.
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It's the largest migration of elephants in the world.
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Now, the air is so dry
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that it turns the grasses brittle under their feet.
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They cover hundreds of miles in search of water.
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It's a 50-gallon-a-day challenge,
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so these Okavango elephants are seldom far away from water --
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water that others live in, fight in,
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and churn up into mud faster than is necessary.
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But this pressure on resources sets the elephants off again
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in search of clean water,
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and behind them, the land is left to rest.
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At these fringes, those that can move have an advantage.
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Warthogs are after the same buried grass roots, rhizomes.
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It's the season when warthogs cluster around rhizome patches.
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It's an awkward position to be in.
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Lionesses have to hunt whatever prey is in their territory.
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A good pig hunting day will see two or three taken in one hunt.
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They can hide -- but they shouldn't run...
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Here, it's all about territory.
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Warthogs will feed the lionesses until the rains,
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but it's risky being territorial at the far end of the water.
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A low flood one year, and they will be high and dry.
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Moporoto has been hunting.
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The sausage tree technique is still working for her.
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Her island has been the perfect refuge for her and her cubs.
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Because the little male always gets to feed first,
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the female cub tries to hone her tree climbing skills.
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She doesn't quite have the hang of it yet.
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Moporoto has to start thinking about moving soon:
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the smell of meat and cubs has started to attract attention.
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It's a stolen meal -- next time it might be a cub.
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She has to move them now.
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It's their first venture away from their birth place,
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into a world filled with strangeness for them.
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The open grassland is very risky for a leopard with cubs.
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For Moporoto, there is just something about the way
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the vultures are circling...
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Something definitely worth looking into.
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It's a giraffe, killed in a fight.
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Out here, there are no free meals
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the hyenas aren't already aware of.
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Her cubs panic.
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One up the tree...
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the other to the bush.
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He is safe.
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Now she has a problem,
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and it's largely one of communication.
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She somehow tells him to stay in the tree,
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but tries to encourage the little female
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back from the bushes.
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She tests the night.
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Her tree climbing lessons paid off.
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The lost little female is found.
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The single event -- a giraffe fight gone wrong --
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has attracted a full range of opportunists.
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It's almost unheard of for painted dogs to scavenge,
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but the pack needs this now.
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If they're going to bring up 16 pups,
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any meat at this fragile water's end will do.
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This will go a long way.
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But vultures will just attract other scavengers now,
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and the real danger to dogs is lions,
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so it's tense around the carcass...
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especially for the stranded leopard cub.
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The alpha male's obsession with vultures is a distraction.
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It's Moporoto all a-hiss with fury,
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way out-numbered,
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but with the confidence of a lion.
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Their adventure, their first in the world beyond their den, is over.
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It takes a little coaxing, but he finally understands
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that she feels it's safe to come down.
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Backwards is fine, too...
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A last feed before it starts all over again with hyenas,
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and possibly lions.
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But each interaction makes the cubs stronger now,
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better equipped to grow in this extraordinary swampland
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and its fingers of water that stretch out into the desert.
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The farther away from permanent water the herds go,
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the more closely followed they are by nomadic lions.
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Desperate hunters without the restriction of territories.
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Elephants dominate,
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and it is here that the nomadic lions
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find the best opportunities.
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They understand that someone's desperation is their hope.
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They're often young, displaced siblings,
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both males and females.
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Now these nomads must form even stronger bonds,
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as they move into the unknown thirst land.
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The heat is hard on anyone who is slightly slower.
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She was asleep at her den when the nomads found her.
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Bat-eared foxes mate for life.
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He has no choice but to watch the lions play with his mate.
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He will have to raise the family alone now
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and be the lookout for all of them.
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Secretary birds are no threat,
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as long as you stay still.
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The fox family is ready to bolt if she gets any closer.
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The scrub hare at the bird's feet knows to freeze.
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But secretary birds hunt on movement -
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even the slightest movement...
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It takes nerves of steel to wait it out.
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He just didn't have them...
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If you can't move, you have to change tactics.
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There are very few that can survive
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for long beyond the water.
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Tragedy follows any misstep out here...
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Procrastination when it comes to a decision
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to leave a territory, a pool of mud,
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is simply foolhardy.
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But some just get caught out.
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As a last desperate effort,
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barbel, one of the few fish in the world
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with accessory breathing capabilities
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that allow them to breath actual air,
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start to "walk."
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Some burrow into the mud and slow their metabolisms
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right down to barely a heartbeat...
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waiting for the rains.
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If they get it wrong, they're on the top layer and simply bake.
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She doesn't have the bulky body of Moporoto,
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because she doesn't get the same food.
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She's a desert leopard.
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But the wily leopard living on the edge
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has a talent for finding the impossible...
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A buried barbel.
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It's small, but in a few days,
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the hippo will probably be stuck too.
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She can wait...
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It starts with the most gentle of breezes,
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dusting the scorched sands.
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The zebras are the first to recognize it.
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It comes from out there.
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Where the herds go, the nomads follow.
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Movement.
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The hot air rises and cools.
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As it drops down, the air triggers a cycle
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of the most extraordinary contrasts.
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It is the eternal journey of life from death,
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water from dry,
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and motion from the static stifling heat.
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They run on the promise of rain.
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Within days, over 3,000 miles of flat thirst land is transformed
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by just a few inches of sheet rain water.
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It takes the pressure off everyone.
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It unlocks them from purgatory.
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It releases the nomads to spend energy playing again.
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It attracts thousands of pink visitors
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from across the subcontinent.
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The arrival of the flamingos is all about sodium chloride --
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basic salt.
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The rain has stimulated
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00:38:25,900 --> 00:38:29,100
a hatching of shrimp that they feed on.
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The sheet water gives them safety,
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an early warning against being ambushed.
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Their pantomime is only interrupted
276
00:39:04,833 --> 00:39:07,200
by a snooping jackal.
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He's heading somewhere else anyway.
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The smell of blood on the wind.
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A wandering lion, like so many other cats here,
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00:40:18,333 --> 00:40:21,200
prefers the rough and spiky grass islands
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to the sticky salt water.
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00:40:24,533 --> 00:40:26,666
It's hard for everyone.
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00:40:38,600 --> 00:40:40,466
Full moon in the salt pans
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00:40:40,500 --> 00:40:43,033
is a kaleidoscope of night light,
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00:40:43,066 --> 00:40:46,833
dancing off the white salty sands below the water.
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00:40:50,234 --> 00:40:53,834
If you are a zebra in Bostwana and want to find a mate,
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00:40:53,835 --> 00:40:59,835
fight for your right to a herd or even give bird in a safety of thousands
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this is the place to be.
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To really understand the Okavango is to know
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that this precious water takes half a year
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to reach the full extent of its range.
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It nourishes over 10,000 square miles
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00:42:11,533 --> 00:42:14,100
and everything that lives in it.
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Every single life here plays its own unique role
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00:42:20,966 --> 00:42:24,000
in creating this pristine landscape.
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And together, they all change the water's flow.
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00:42:28,433 --> 00:42:31,966
They are a reflection of the river itself.
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It is one of the last places on Earth
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where giants can still roam unmolested.
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Where babies can trust in tomorrow,
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and where hope is alive.
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It is a jewel,
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but its future is entirely in our hands.
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We can protect it,
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00:43:30,566 --> 00:43:33,500
or stand back and just easily bear witness
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to the very last life here,
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00:43:35,600 --> 00:43:40,333
and watch as it all ghosts away like a dream.
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