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The second phase of the Okavango,
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in Southern Africa's Botswana,
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is, as it fans out into a delta, in limbo,
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before spilling out into the Kalahari Desert.
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The clues to why the delta changes its shape
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so radically here
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lie at the center of each of its uniquely formed islands.
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There are forces at work down here,
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building underground fortresses,
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blockades against the rising water table --
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using a combination of saliva and hard calcrete.
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Just a single one of them influences everything here.
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The male lion is not a loner.
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Daily calls connect him and his brother.
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All around them, life is erupting.
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Termites start their nuptial dances.
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They flush from underground homes to fly,
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and within seconds find a mate, before they can be eaten.
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Millions don't make it...
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But millions do.
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The mating dance fills the air
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and starts one of the most magical relationships
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in nature...
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one that dominates the entire story of the Okavango.
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They land at the feet of giants, find their soul mates,
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and burrow down into the soft Kalahari sands.
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Then, they start a new cycle of building.
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Towering castles rise up even above the heads of elephants.
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Trees attach themselves,
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forming platforms for all life here.
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In this flat landscape,
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any high ground forces the flood waters
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to spread around these islands,
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creating a sprawling delta
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across 9,000 square miles of Botswana.
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And at the foundation of each island in the Okavango
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is a termite colony.
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In a place where water is abundant,
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it's the high ground that is precious
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and used by just about everything here.
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When there are cubs,
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It's an unfamiliar and sometimes tense relationship with them.
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In this upside-down world,
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months after the rains end
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and just as the dry season starts,
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the flood begins to rise.
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Rainwater from halfway across the continent
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is finally reaching the delta.
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Those that can adapt to this watery world have an advantage,
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especially if they can find just the right island.
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Two Hyena sisters have found some abandoned aardvark holes
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to turn into a den.
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Hyena family greetings may be a little curious,
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but these are some of the most caring mothers in the delta.
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All their cuteness has been reserved
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for when they are very young.
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They soon grow out of it.
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The older cubs have already developed bone crushing habits,
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so the youngest dig secret chambers
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into the heart of the termite mound
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that only they can get into.
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Someone else is eyeing one of their holes today.
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And quite simply moves into the spare chamber.
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It's disconcerting for the cubs.
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Hyenas can easily rip a warthog to pieces,
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but for some reason now, they extend a kind of welcome.
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A working solution develops.
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Hyenas den during the day, and at night,
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when they are out hunting, the warthogs are in residence...
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And during the twilight hours, both families are at home.
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It's family bliss,
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but with lethal jaws-in-the-making.
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Both families keep a wary eye out for the odd neighbors.
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The male lion is patrolling his territory
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but takes a diversion to harass hyenas.
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He's definitely also interested in the smell of hidden pigs.
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The unlikely alliance between these two families
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sharing a den worked well today,
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and those extra eyes and ears
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served as early warning mechanisms.
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At last -- the two brothers have found each other.
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Their bond is vital to both of them,
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their territory and their pride.
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The teenagers have energy to burn.
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The males watch them closely.
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The first sign of small manes on the young lions
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has their father's attention.
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In a year, the large males will have to chase them off.
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Lions of any size on the move through the swamp
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send shock waves of panic through everyone.
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Anyone caught out of water is fair game for the youngsters.
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And it turns into a game of cat and very large mouse.
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For some, safety is in the water.
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For others, it is on the termite islands
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as the flood rises.
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As the young piglets emerge from their catacombs,
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they have a lot to thank the hyena family for.
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But it's time to move out into the world.
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Warthogs across the delta more than double in number
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in a few weeks,
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all because of their initial safe havens
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in the termite mound islands.
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On one of the larger islands,
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they are being watched from above.
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The leopard can't choose,
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so grabs up two piglets.
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But she can't carry both to the trees
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before the chaos attracts unwanted attention.
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Now, the hyenas are interested in the smell of piglets
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for an entirely different reason.
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The males, on a territorial patrol together,
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stride right towards the leopard's island.
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She is saved by chance.
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Piglets on the wind.
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Right into the jaws of death...
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But it's a slippery little thing.
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And one that comes with a lot of attitude.
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For the largest of the African cats,
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being confronted by something this small is...
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a little confusing.
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These plains may favor the bold and the brave,
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but today the odds were just too great...
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And not enough to feed both brothers.
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By mid-flood, over 80% of the Okavango
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is under sheet water.
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Much of it is shallow and crystal clear --
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Because the flood lags so far behind the local rains,
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it brings new water
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at just the right time for thousands of animals.
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It is a haven for them.
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The expression of sheer elephant joy
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seems to erupt in their voices.
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They are in fact the architects of the Okavango.
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Where elephants lead, the flood follows,
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bringing new water down dormant channels to forgotten islands.
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But what brings elephants to this part of the delta
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now lies ahead of them, on those islands.
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They can't reach these dates
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and don't want to destroy the tree itself,
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so they gently "harvest" the fruit.
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Being crowned by rock-hard nuts seems to be worth it.
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But it's a classic case of which came first:
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the palm, the nut, or the elephant.
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The palms can only germinate
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if softened at the right temperature...
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the exact same heat as that inside an elephant's gut.
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These vast palm islands so typical of the delta exist
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purely because of these long caravans of traveling elephants.
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And the islands themselves are built on termite mounds
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right across the Okavango.
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If you're not particularly finicky about the source,
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the softened nuts in elephant dung hold amazing riches.
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And vervet monkeys are used to having sticky fingers.
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As quickly as it came in,
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the flood starts to shrink after a few months --
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the first signs of change.
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It leaves soft green grasses exposed,
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and highly nutritious -- well worth going in search of.
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But unfortunately, others have the same idea.
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It's a three-way fight.
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One backs up into a small termite mound
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and gains two advantages:
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the high ground and a protected rear end.
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It's a winning combination in a species where fighting
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is both critical to claiming space and food,
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and is dangerous.
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Hippos dominate the waterways
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throughout the delta,
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making it as hazardous for other animals here.
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In these flood waters,
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there is a single rare antelope on the move today.
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He is so rare that he's one of a kind.
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There has never been another like him
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seen anywhere in the world.
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At first glance, he looks like a common red lechwe.
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It's not surprising:
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his mother was a lechwe.
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But his father was a waterbuck.
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We'll call him a wachwe, in honor of both parents.
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Today, the wachwe is in deep trouble --
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and the pack knows it.
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The wachwe is larger than any normal lechwe,
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and though that may confuse them,
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the painted dogs are not easily scared off by size.
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But he's not a complete loner:
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today he's found a real waterbuck.
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Their interesting and different genetics may be academic now.
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The real threat may actually be in the water
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they are using for their escape.
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Hippos attack each other,
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so complete strangers are not welcome in this pool.
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They're in trouble if they don't leave the water now.
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But they're in trouble if they try to.
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The confidence of being born bigger and bolder
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than his siblings is paying off.
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But today, the two antelopes find safety in limbo,
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somewhere between the river bank and the deeper water.
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Even the hunting dogs wont risk offending the hippos.
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It's a standoff between an endangered predator
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and an antelope that doesn't really exist.
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The intimate lives of these animals make up
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the complex web of the Okavango:
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touch it in one place and it shivers somewhere else.
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Someone's paradise is someone else's purgatory.
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In this world of winners and losers,
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there are sometimes simple working relationships,
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with no disadvantages.
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Black egrets have a special technique
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of blocking out the shine on the water,
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to catch fish under their umbrella-like wings.
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Small minnows come to forage, and craftily,
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black egrets use their bright yellow feet as lures.
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It's such a good tactic that a glossy ibis
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poaches under the umbrella without any shame at all.
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There is one problem --
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when you have your head under your wings,
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things can creep up on you.
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The pride is out hunting,
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and young lions are interested in anything that moves --
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in particular, those that move slowly.
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These lions have adapted to being in water.
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The constant wading,
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from one termite island to the next through deep water,
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makes them fit, strong,
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and some of the largest lions in Africa.
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The cool water allows them to forge through the delta,
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well into the heat of the day.
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In these mosquito-infested swamplands,
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they are after one species of prey above all else.
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It's their favorite, but it's not easy...
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Buffalo.
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Being down in the water-grass can get confusing,
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so Okavango lions have to use any advantage they can get.
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Elevation is a huge help.
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It's one of the few places in the world
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where lions do climb trees.
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They also climb to get any cooling breeze...
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but these heavy-set lions have to get their balance just right.
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And it's not just the lionesses that can climb.
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The buffalo are heading this way.
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So now, all that is needed is a hasty and elegant descent
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to circle into position...
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The time to attack buffalo is when they bunch up,
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when they are stressed by the deeper water crossings.
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But today, the pride waits and sets the ambush
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for just as the buffalo enter their termite island.
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He's eager to join in.
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With the pride in perfect position to ambush a lost calf,
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the trick would be to not spook the buffalo.
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A big bull senses something wrong.
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Now it's important for the male to be still...
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Silent.
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But the male's weight-to-agility ratio is just off.
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These are Cape buffalo.
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They kill more lions than any other animal does,
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and today, there are nearly a thousand of them.
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Suddenly a young bull elephant is in the mix...
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And he's irate.
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Elephants are definitely the dominant species
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on these islands.
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But the lions have artfully sneaked off...
262
00:34:29,066 --> 00:34:32,966
and he's been left with the full force of the buffalo herd.
263
00:34:35,500 --> 00:34:39,033
This warrior elephant is up to the challenge.
264
00:34:50,566 --> 00:34:53,533
Some of the younger lions have their own troubles now.
265
00:35:11,000 --> 00:35:14,633
Treed by the buffalo, they have nowhere to hide,
266
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and the best elevation is just at buffalo horn height.
267
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The lions have learned a valuable lesson today,
268
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one that once again establishes the reputation of buffalo
269
00:35:42,900 --> 00:35:46,666
as one of the most dangerous animals in Africa.
270
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The pride is bruised
271
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and retreats to give the buffalo a wider berth.
272
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As the evening air cools,
273
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tiny nymphs that have been waiting for a year under water
274
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start to hatch.
275
00:36:11,033 --> 00:36:13,900
Luna mayflies fill the air.
276
00:36:22,200 --> 00:36:25,366
Little bee-eaters hawk on them frantically,
277
00:36:25,400 --> 00:36:28,300
as if the flush will be their last meal.
278
00:36:28,333 --> 00:36:31,900
But here, there is no shortage of insects.
279
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The Okavango keeps providing to those
280
00:36:34,066 --> 00:36:37,100
that are well adapted to use the moment.
281
00:36:53,700 --> 00:36:57,466
So here, if you can adapt, you do well.
282
00:37:03,966 --> 00:37:07,100
Baboons spend their nights in the trees, asleep.
283
00:37:16,466 --> 00:37:19,433
Getting down is a delicate matter.
284
00:37:19,466 --> 00:37:21,366
But these straight up and down palms
285
00:37:21,400 --> 00:37:25,000
are their gateway to the safest place for them to roost.
286
00:37:25,033 --> 00:37:28,033
Nothing else can climb these vertical trunks.
287
00:37:42,133 --> 00:37:46,033
The buffalo herd is also awake, moving downstream.
288
00:37:48,100 --> 00:37:51,133
Perhaps it's the definition of insanity,
289
00:37:51,166 --> 00:37:54,166
but the pride has decided to regroup
290
00:37:54,200 --> 00:37:58,833
and try the exact same tactic again.
291
00:38:31,600 --> 00:38:34,600
They're going to need something different today,
292
00:38:34,633 --> 00:38:37,133
or it will all end up in the trees again.
293
00:38:42,200 --> 00:38:44,233
It's going to take a hero...
294
00:38:44,266 --> 00:38:48,633
An unlikely hero after yesterday's performance.
295
00:38:56,166 --> 00:39:00,766
Male lions are just not designed to hunt.
296
00:39:00,800 --> 00:39:04,000
Their manes are for display, for fighting.
297
00:39:12,100 --> 00:39:15,233
The pride is uncoordinated;
298
00:39:15,266 --> 00:39:16,933
the buffalo united.
299
00:39:33,033 --> 00:39:37,333
And then, just as the herd hits the first reeds,
300
00:39:37,366 --> 00:39:41,366
the second male flies into action alongside his brother.
301
00:40:07,500 --> 00:40:11,200
This is why prides often have more than one male:
302
00:40:11,233 --> 00:40:13,500
to bring down the difficult, heavy prey
303
00:40:13,533 --> 00:40:16,900
that the rest of the pride simply cannot conquer.
304
00:40:41,433 --> 00:40:43,566
Their feast is short-lived.
305
00:40:45,900 --> 00:40:49,833
Elephants have picked up the sound of death, the chaos,
306
00:40:49,866 --> 00:40:52,666
and they don't like it.
307
00:40:52,700 --> 00:40:56,033
The mere presence of lions, the smell of blood,
308
00:40:56,066 --> 00:40:59,000
and the disturbance to their sedate lives
309
00:40:59,033 --> 00:41:00,600
offends these animals.
310
00:41:00,633 --> 00:41:05,400
They thrive on peace and seem to just want to maintain that.
311
00:41:06,433 --> 00:41:08,800
Outraged, they act as if the lions
312
00:41:08,833 --> 00:41:11,866
had killed one of their own, not a buffalo.
313
00:41:16,733 --> 00:41:20,000
But for one of them, that may be true.
314
00:41:20,033 --> 00:41:23,800
A tusk-less cow reacts as if she has lost a calf
315
00:41:23,833 --> 00:41:28,533
or family member of her own in the past.
316
00:41:28,566 --> 00:41:32,333
Elephants hold that hurt and loss for a long time.
317
00:41:42,300 --> 00:41:45,333
But the lions slip away into the long grass,
318
00:41:45,366 --> 00:41:47,066
frustrating her even more.
319
00:42:00,766 --> 00:42:04,133
And then, without any obvious reason at all,
320
00:42:04,166 --> 00:42:07,466
the female and her herd suddenly settle down
321
00:42:07,500 --> 00:42:11,500
and allow the pride to feed.
322
00:42:11,533 --> 00:42:15,133
Forgiven perhaps, but not forgotten.
323
00:42:21,766 --> 00:42:23,400
It's just one of the mysteries
324
00:42:23,433 --> 00:42:26,700
that define this river with so many faces.
325
00:42:31,633 --> 00:42:36,200
This strange but magical flood starts inland,
326
00:42:36,233 --> 00:42:39,333
adapts to meander around termite castles
327
00:42:39,366 --> 00:42:42,066
and down elephant paths,
328
00:42:42,100 --> 00:42:44,266
affecting millions of animals.
329
00:42:47,633 --> 00:42:51,300
And then dribbles out into nothing.
330
00:42:59,301 --> 00:43:04,601
This home descendants largest population of mega size animals in the world.
331
00:43:09,433 --> 00:43:13,733
The next phase of the river is an entirely different one.
332
00:43:15,766 --> 00:43:19,633
Herds we see little of in the delta start to leave
333
00:43:19,666 --> 00:43:23,866
just when it is at its very best.
334
00:43:24,700 --> 00:43:28,066
They take us out to the far reaches of the water,
335
00:43:28,100 --> 00:43:30,533
away from the realm of kings
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00:43:30,566 --> 00:43:36,233
and farther down this strange river of dreams.
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