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A TWIST OF THE WRIST VOLUME II

The Cornering Bible

- You got those new sticky Dunlops on.

- Yeah, they're supposed to be pretty cool.

- Are they sticky as they say?

- That's why I got'em.

... truth is I... just don't know.

- Yeah, see what you mean.

"Chicken stripes" = Unused portion of the tire caused by fear of leaning.

- You know, the bike is fast, it's way faster than I am.

- Let's see what all these other guys are get on.

- Wow. - Oh, wow.

- This guy is brave, he really leaned over.

- Hey look at those footpegs all grinded way.

- And the tire!

- Gosh!

- Can I help you, gentlemen, with something?

- Is this your bike?

- Yes, she is.

- Hey, how you do something like this with a bike like that?

- I guess I learned a few things on my days.

- Yeah, I guess so!

- Got advice for us?

- Advice? It is a very interesting topic.

- You break straight up. - No way, pop! Trail break, all the time!

No, bro, pretty sure you're supposed to counter steer on the turns.

- Just get more seat time. You'll improve.

- Nah, no way, you gotta plan out your laps.

- Be safe.

- What you do is your downshift to slow down.

- No no no, use the brakes.

- No, man, it's counter-steering.

- Body steering, man, it's body steering.

- You've got to smooth!

- One can hear a lot of advice about riding.

Here, let's start with this.

That's the Cornering Bible.

Go and read it for a week and then bring it back to me.

- Thanks. - No problem.

- Take it easy, guys.

- You too, we'll see you around.

Hi, I'm Keith Code.

We hear lots of advice about how to ride.

Some of it is destructive advice, some friendly advice and some

useful tips.

Let's see how advice stacks up against the technology of riding.

Take counter-steer as an example.

Most often, our first vehicle has three wheels like this tricycle.

Turn the bars to the right and it goes right.

Turn to the left and it goes left.

Simple.

Our first ventures out on two wheels usually envolve training wheels.

Now we have a four-wheeler.

From the tricycle experiences, we instinctively turn right to go right and it works.

In the time other method of training, we raise the training wheels.

Now we have a recipe for disaster.

We lost two wheels.

It's now a frighteningly unstable machine.

The child expected to steer like everything else she's ridden.

Look what happens, thought.

She steers to the right and the bike tips over to the left.

Just like all two wheel devices.

Even with all the bad advice out of our sense of survival

We somehow make it work.

But do we understand the underlying technlogy of it?

All two wheel vehicles steer differently to three and four wheelers.

To go right you apply pressure to the right handlebar.

That action initiates the turn.

The bike then leans over and the front wheel turns into the turn.

It's called counter-steering.

That's why training wheels are so confusing at first.

It's counter to everything the child has learned.

Listen kid, steering is simple.

You just push down the inside peg,

pull the bike in with your knee

push the handlebars down

and lean your body in.

Really? I did not know that.

It was false and misleading advice like that...

that led me to invent the "No B. S." or "No Body-Steering" bike.

Let's see if would help us sort out the facts of steering.

I've grafted an extra set of bars on this bike.

The whole idead was to take the handlebars out of the equation

to discover what so-called body-steering really does.

The extra throttle on the top bars allows the driver to maintain speed.

Even with massive shifts in body weight without any input to the handlebars

the bike only vaguely changes direction.

This will never get you through the corkscrew at Laguna Seca.

Footpeg weighting is another myth.

Even with his entire body weight on one peg, this bike merely varies off course

and once its course is set, the pressure has even less effect.

Good advice doesn't always put the rider in real control

and can prevent us from properly to be able to do this.

A little counter-steering with bar pressure gets the job done

and puts the rider in control.

Here we have managed a simple pointer on the tank to illustrate counter-steering.

Let's take it for a ride and see what happens.

See how the pointer shows the bars moving first to left and then right, and vice-versa?

This is counter-steering.

It is the only way to accurately steer a motorcycle.

It really is simple.

Just press on the bar and the bike responds instantly.

That's all you do and it works all the time, everytime.

Even with only one finger.

The idea that we lean to steer comes from the fact that,

when you lean right, you unconsciously pressure the right handlebar.

And that counter-steers the bike right.

Vice-versa for left turns.

Lean steering is one of the myths of riding.

Some believe body steering works because they can maneuver the bike with the hands off the bars.

When we move our weight toward on the bike it actually creates a counter-steering action.

Look at the pointer.

Some riders are confused by how the steer a bike once they are in a turn.

It's exactly the same.

To tighten the turn, you press your inside bar.

To widen your turn and bring your bike up, you press the outside bar.

Counter-steering always works.

Counter-steering is a piece of riding tech that will help you to improve your control in virtually every situation.

Let's take a look at some other parts of riding.

You guys really do have the cutting-edge of bike technology, don't you?

Look at the size of that rear tire.

Look at the size of those brakes.

I bet you really can roll on when you need to, huh?

The frame is stiff enough to handle all the breaking power and the grip of the tires.

So how many ponnies does it have?

Well over a hundred.

Mine's around 150. They say it will do 180.

It's impressive.

Guess all that cutting-edge stuff can make a difference.

But sometimes the cutting-edge cuffs the rider.

What's needed is the riding technology to match the machine's technology.

After over a century of development, motorcycles are trully precision cornering machines,

but that doesn't eliminate rider error.

What stops most riders from being able to use all of that potential?

- Man, I was riding as hard as I could and the guy just disappears.

- Yeah. Me too, man.

- Hey is there anything on that twist 2 book he gave us about riding harder?

- Here we go.

To make real improvement, riders can expect to reach a high level of technical skill,

but only if they ride at 75% of their limit.

Everyone agrees that in some fashion, survival reactions...

- Survival reaction? What's that? It's like, fear?

- Yeah.

Survival reactions or "S.R.s" are the ever present barrier to riders reaching their goals.

- That's right, everytime I try to up the pace, I get myself in all sorts of problems.

It's like I'm afraid to push my limits.

But I'm not sure what I'm afraid of.

- Me too, it's definitely my personal limit.

I would describe it more like a mild panic.

- Well, let's ride.

- Where is my key?

Where is my key?

- What do you mean? - I never took it out but it's not here.

It is an agreed upon fact

our instinct of survival reactions, or "S.R.s", ruin a rider's hopes of being confident and in control.

In riding, there are eight distinct so called survival reactions, or "S.R.s",

and we can see all of them in this one incident.

Immediately we see the rider trying to use body-steering into the turn when he should've counter-steered,

so it starts out a little wide.

If he would know how to steer the bike, this whole thing could've been avoided.

Let's get back and see what other errors were made.

He gets on the gas to stabilize the bike, but chops it mid turn.

The bike stands up a bit and that's S.R. #1, chopping the gas from panic.

Now he's counter-leaning against the angle of the bike.

This increases bike lean angle, but doesn't tighten up the turn as he would hoped.

This is another S.R.

Now the bike is unstable and running wide,

so he tightens his grip on the bars.

Almost common S.R.

None of this helped, he's running wide and panics.

He is looking everywhere but where he should be ...

... around the turn, this is visual panic.

His target locks on the very thing he doesn't want to hit.

A S.R.? You bet.

In a panic, we go where we look, he's steering directly towards the log where his attention is locked.

S.R. #6

With his attention toddling down he cannot steer effectively and becomes frozen on the bars.

Yes, S.R. #7.

He can't turn, so he jumps on the brakes.

Our eighth S.R.

His lazy steering started the whole mess, but when he chopped the throttle off it got worse.

First let's take a look at throttle control and how it works.

My bike went terrible on those turns back there, how is yours?

Not too bad, but I didn't have as much grip as I would like.

The roads must've been slippery.

I think I need to play around with the suspension a little bit.

You know how to do that?

Yeah, but not enough.

Hey, are there any suspension settings in that Twist of The Wrist II book the guy gave us?

It says here that understanding the performance specifications of your bike is one step in reducing

throttle control survival reactions, that detract from your riding.

Sound 'bout right, what does that mean?

Considering that most machines and the statical constant speed situation

have roughly 50-50 weight distribution, we can begin to calculate the guidelines for correct throttle control for a turn.

The fact the rear contact patch is larger the two tells the story.

"Give me the more weight I can handle it."

So, once in the corner a tire gets to shift 10 to 20% more load to the rear to give it its fair share of load.

This we do with the throttle. Technically speaking, we want to slide .1 to .2 Gs of acceleration to accomplish that.

Simply put, in a straight line, is the force generated by a smooth fifth gear roll-on

in the 4 to 6 thousand RPM range on pretty much anything over 600 cc.

That's not much acceleration, but it transfers the weight.

Whatever the RPM range, we must maintain the weight transfer by continuing at throttle roll-on.

Throttle control rule #1:

Once the throttle is cracked open, it is rolled on evenly, smoothly and continuously throughout the remainder of the turn.

This is not just a racing technique

it applies to all corners on all motorcycles.

Once the correct transfer of weight is achieved using the throttle,

any big changes in the weight distribution will reduce available traction

which is specially important in poor traction conditions.

Once the bike is fully leaned over, violating rule #1 with poor throttle control

will underweight or overweight that particular tire-bike combination.

Hear again: even in poor traction conditions

good throttle control gives maximum stability and grip.

Slides are the negative result from rolling the throttle on and off.

For track riding and racing, each throttle on-off or even just an hesitation will cost you time.

At least a tenth of a second, about a bike lenght

in a slow to medium speed turn.

In higher speed turns, the same throttle error will cost you even more

the effects of wind drag are substantial at higher speeds.

- If the surface is slippery, do you want to overload the front or rear tires?

- NO!

- Correct.

If you are rough or inconsistent with your throttle control, will it reduce traction?

- YES!

- Exactly.

If you have good throttle control,

will the weight be distributed properly on both the front and rear tire?

- YES!

- Exactly. Now, what is throttle control rule #1?

- Once the throttle is cracked open, it is rolled on evenly,

smoothly and constantly throughout the remainder of the turn.

- Good. Now, repeat that to yourself one thousand times.

- Once the throttle is cracked open, it is rolled on ...

This rider is late on the gas and gets very hard, sudden acceleration out of the turn.

This driver is trying for good throttle control and has nice, clean roll on,

not the same fierce acceleration as the first guy.

But what is the actual result in exit speed? Let's look at the radar.

A huge difference.

There are two circumstances under which you may violate throttle control rule #1.

Let's take the point where you are bringing the bike up for the drive out of the corner as the first one.

As the bike is bought up towards vertical, we can be more aggressive with the throttle.

At some point you can pin it.

Coordinating your throttle roll on with bringing up the bike,

is how to maximize your drive out of any corner

on any size bike.

Most riders wait until the bike is nearly upright before they increase the roll on rate.

The skill of it is in accurate timing of the pick up and roll on.

What difference does it make?

Quite a lot.

The second exception to throttle control rule #1 is traction control.

Riders can be far more aggressive with mid-corner and exit throttle.

Double-apex turn to the other exception to the throttle control rule.

So we're actually dealing with two turns,

it's OK to roll off or stop the roll on between the two.

- Hey, look, a CBR 1000. - And R6.

- Look at the guy on the Repsol, he's not smooth with the gas.

- I bet he's racer.

- Told ya.

- What are you looking at, kid?

- Your tires.

- What do you kids know about riding?

- Once the throttle is cracked open, it's rolled on evenly, smoothly

and constantly throughout the remainder of the turn.

- How long have you guys been riding?

- About three months.

- Have you guys ever been at a riding school?

- No, but we got this book this guy gave us.

- Yeah, just keep reading it.

- Come on, boys. It's time to go.

- At some of those places I just couldn't help myself. I kept rolling in and out of the throttle.

- I was cool, completely perfect the whole time.

- Really?

That's fine, 'cause I still can't get it continuous roll on.

- That's S.R. 1

Rolling out of and on and off the throttle when you shouldn't.

- That's right.

Survival reactions, how I could forget that?

Good handling means predictable traction

and good traction depends on your suspension working well.

In mid-corner, on a properly set up bike,

the forks and shock work best in roughly than mid-stroke range.

With good throttle control, you can see the forks

working and then mid stroke and mid corner.

Is that as good as it gets? Is the bike happy?

Are you happy when the bike is happy?

Yes, yes and yes.

In what range do we want the rear shock to operate?

In the middle, of course.

That's its most compliant range

That's its sweet spot, just like the forks.

Once you get back on the throttle, weight begins to transfer to the rear.

The rear shock becomes our main concern,

because we must now rely on it more for stability and traction.

Contrary to popular opinion, getting on the gas hard makes the back of the bike rise,

that applies to both chain and shaft drive bikes.

As it rises, the rear suspension becomes stiff

this results in the rear tire not being able to follow the road's surfaces well and the traction is reduced.

This becomes abundantly clear when we look at front wheel speed compared to reader wheel speed on a straight.

There is quite a bit of tire slippage.

And look at rear suspension's position.

Nearly topped out.

Again, it isn't working well

With good throttle control we get what the bike is designed to deliver,

working suspension and optimum traction.

Another down side of survival reaction #1,

chopping the throttle, is reduce ground clearance.

Not only does the front compress, so does the rear.

Which further reduces your clearance.

- Perfect examples. When the rider is hard on the brakes,

the front-end wheel feels heavy. And the breaking...

- Check it out.

- Man, he is smooth.

"Good throttle control allows the suspension to work properly and the bike is smooth."

Let's see if we can catch him.

Our new riders might've grasped the idea of good throttle control,

but they certainly haven't mastered it yet.

- Figured you guys would come this way.

- Well, we figured out why you're so smooth.

- They've got it. Your forks, shock

and suspension settings create the potential for good handling.

Your throttle control brings that potential into reality.

Good throttle control has a major impact on slides.

In controlled slides like this good throttle control maintains stability.

In an unwanted or unexpected slide chopping it makes it worse.

Watch this.

Good throttle control, in reverse, can save you from the high side.

A smooth roll off works much better.

Practice your roll off as often as your roll on.

When the time comes, it could make all the difference.

Without getting into anything really nasty, like oil on the road,

what are the usual conditions that activate our off the gas S.R.s?

How about some of this?

Water and sand are two big concerns for most riders.

While you must not be aggressive with the throttle in situations like this,

you certainly don't want to chop it either.

What is your best bet if it's really slippery?

Well, pick it up as best you can. The least lean angle, the better.

- Looks like good throttle control solves many of our rider problems, doesn't it?

- YES!

There are many factors that affect what line a rider maintain through a turn.

We will explore that later. The point we want to make now is this:

no matter what line you take, high, low, middle, whatever,

good throttle control is the gauge by which you can judge it.

Riders are often confused about why the bike, initially, stands up

and runs wide when they get off the gas mid turn.

Once into your lean and the gas is rolled off, weight transfers to the front of the bike

compressing the forks. That weight goes to the front tire and spreads out the contact patch.

This creates additional drag on the patch to the inside of the center line of the bike,

that drag counter-steers the bike up causing it runs wide.

The whole thing can seem confusing, especially if the rider expects to

tighten the turn when he rolls of the gas and he founds the opposite of that happening.

A moment later, since the gas is off, the bike slows,

leans further over and finally tightens up the turn.

Applying brakes mid corner creates the same effect.

When the weight transfers forward the result is the same, the bike stands up.

A static throttle slows the bike as well. Again the bike tends to run wide.

This effect is even more pronounced at higher speeds and steeper lean angles.

Getting on the gas too hard too soon will also send the bike off line, wide.

Getting on the throttle too slowly, makes the bike feel unresponsive.

As we see here, with good throttle control,

the bike looks and feels stable on its line and leaves the corner faster.

Getting the feel for how much throttle the bike wants and needs to be stable, and have good traction

and hold its line is the art of good throttle control.

There are choices in lines, but the good ones

follow the throttle control rule.

- Jesus, I'm running wide on that exit almost every time

And I'm following the throttle control rule.

It doesn't make any sense.

What does that Twist II book say?

- You get on the gas as soon as possible. - I'm definitely doing that.

But still I'm coming out, I can't hold my line.

- We have minds holding our line, it's just unstable at the beginning.

I'm not running wide on the exit, but my bike doesn't feel planted to, like, the apex.

I do not know what we are doing wrong.

- Let me take a look.

A-ha, here we go.

To meet the throttle control standard, steering is completed before you get it on.

This doesn't mean at the apex, right before or just after, or any particular part of the turn,

it means as soon as possible once the steering is completed.

I never thought of that.

- See, I was told you have to wait until you get to the apex.

I've been scared to get it on before that.

Let's look at all six of off-the-gas results and see why is so important to follow the throttle control rule

and get back to the gas as soon as possible once bike has turned.

1st Weight transfers forward changing our available traction.

2nd We've lost our suspension's mid-stroke sweet spot.

3rd The bike will tend to overreact to rough pavement and can become a bit twitchy.

4th By creating some instability, the bike initially tends to run wide.

5th As we saw before, we loose ground clearance on both ends of the bike.

6th And lastly, the bike slows down.

These are the six results you get

From waiting too long to get back on the throttle.

Getting back on the gas as early as possible solves all of this.

Bike becomes planted and predictable,

but can you get back on the gas too early?

This rider got greedy with the throttle way too early, but the solution was correct

roll off, reduce speed, repoint the bike and then roll back on.

To add lean and throttle at this point of the turn is a common cause of crashes.

But this is the way it really should be done.

- He-hey, no more "chicken stripes"!

- Yeah, I guess we both have a better understanding of throttle control.

- And we're more confident on the level of the grip.

- Right, throttle control is the secret to get the most out of your bike, but ...

... is one place you really need to go to see if you have it nailed.

The track!

I see you guys at the track.

- I stayed with you all the way up to the fast turn, then you just pull away like a train.

- That's because you were charging the turn.

Charging turns is a common rider error. Being fearless with the speed and brakes coming in

often adversely affects entry and mid turn throttle.

- That was mistake.

- All right, so when my arm is rising, I'm rolling on

and when it's falling, I'm rolling off. So my left hand is telling you guys what my right hand is doing. OK?

- I got it on that first turn ...

... But that double apex ...

- Well, man... you're still charging the turns.

- Yeah, you're right. That's S.R. #1 in another form,

Brewing with gas going in there then coasting and losing too much speed.

Charging your turns just messes your sense of speed.

Let's take a look.

Charging any turn tends to narrow our field of view.

We'll be lose our reference points, it affects our sense of speed.

This is one of our S.R.s.

Our new rider is still charging corners and chopping the gas.

That will cost him turn entry speed and a clean early roll on.

This looks pretty rough.

Even in slow speed situations, the throttle is our friend.

Nothing else will stabilize the bike.

Once you've mastered your throttle control S.R.s.

you have taken a giant step towards control over the bike and confidence in yourself at any speed.

Understanding your bike's needs and wants is important

You don't have to be world champion to see throttle control

optimizes your bike suspension, smoothes out rough surfaces, helps you hold your line

and optimizes traction in practically every situation.

- Man, this track riding is really hard work.

- Yeah, I got a really bad formed pump, I can hardly hit the front brake.

It's like riding motocross all over again.

- We gotta get ourselves down on the gym and work out a little more often.

- Yeah.

My first reaction is to tell them both to relax.

Let's take a close look at how excessive rider input creates instability and tires out the rider.

Here a guy in holding on too tight

causes to the rider to receive too much input.

The tighter you hold on, the bigger the bumps seem.

Small shakes from the front-end are amplified as well.

Why are the bars moving? What are they searching for?

They are trying to find the position that will stabilize the bike by maintaining the correct tracking of front and rear wheels.

The bike does this without any help from the rider.

If the rider could hold on tight enough to stop the bars moving,

he would only amplify that wobble.

The force he puts into the bars creates resistance and a plowing effect to the front tire's contact patch.

Now the back of the bike wants to rotate around that resistance and the wobble becomes even worse.

Setting a wheelie down cocked is an extreme example of this.

Let's look again. When the front wheel is not in alignment with the bike's direction of travel,

there's a huge resistance created at the front contact patch.

The wheel immediately tries to realign itself with the bike's direction of travel.

Take a look at the massive deformation in the front tire as it sets down.

When the rubber springs back into alignment, the front end shakes.

Look at the difference in front end shake the rider is creating,

when he is too tight on the bars. Being stable on bike

but loose on the bars reduces bike twitch.

Holding on too tight transfers engine and road vibration

to your hands and arms. Tiring them out and making them numb.

This, in turn, causes you to hold on even tighter.

The same elevated level of feedback can, again, easily distort your sense of speed.

When the rider responds by tighten up on the bars, it gets worse.

This is S.R. #2 once again, tightening on the bars.

Over poor surface conditions, a rider who tenses his back,

gets out harmony with his bike and will tend to bounce in the saddle. This causes extra suspension action.

Your legs are terrific help to your bike's suspension in these situations,

riding light in the saddle using your legs with the loosen slightly out back helps enourmously.

Most riders become anxious about being blowed around by another vehicles, or the wind,

and tighten on the bars. As the upper body is baffled by the wind, the bike

is being steered by the wind. Ride loose like this and the wind's effect on the bike is reduced.

Other key rider jobs are similarly affected

by holding on too tight.

Being stiff on the bike while riding through bumpy turns tends to turn the throttle on and off.

Suspension and traction are affected because good throttle control is not maintained.

Riding loose solves this.

Riding rigidly can shake your helmet and blur your vision.

The more you try to brace yourself and hold your head still, the more it shakes.

This can even make your neck sore.

Limber and loose is smooth.

Do you ever find yourself making steering corrections while in the corner?

This is another part of survival reaction number two, gripping the bars too tightly.

As the bike runs wide, or feels like it's running wide,

survival reaction number kicks in and steering corrections occur.

This all makes the bike more unstable and it runs wide in the corner.

How much actual bar pressure is needed to hold your line?

As you can see, with good throttle control, none.

- Check this out. I'm not helping the bike at all by holding on, the tighten I get on the bar is the worse it gets.

I don't need to go to the gym to hold on tighter, I have to light my grip on the bars.

I had all backwards.

Like most avid cornering enthusiasts you tried to hang off.

There are several key elements we'll cover on this.

First, when do you hang off?

One of the more common beginner errors is moving over into a hang off position right to the turning point.

Notice the bike wiggling?

The rule of thumb is to pre-position your hips, just before you roll off the gas.

This method will reduce problems from unwanted

handlebar and body inputs.

The second novish error is hanging off too far. Enough is helpful

too much is awkward and does more harm than good.

Notice how stiff the rider is when off too far.

One cheek off the seat is enough. These two simple rules will get you started.

Hang off early and not too far.

The opposite of hanging off is cross up. This reduces control,

exaggerates lean angle and makes the rider twist and tight on the bike.

With the hang off pole position control improves,

lean angle is decreased and the rider is in alignment with his bike and relaxed.

Compare the two, with the speed and line almost identical,

look at the difference in exit lean angle.

Less lean equals more throttle and better drive.

Now let's compare straight-up riding with hanging off

and see if there is a difference.

Here he's riding straight up.

Once again at nearly identical speed and line

there is a measurable difference in lean.

Body position on the bike can positively or negatively affect your riding.

It could've gotten over sooner for this corner.

Getting over before turning, he's smooth as silk entering the turn.

Both errors here, moving over while turning and he's off too far.

The problem is compounded when you lose connection with the bike.

He's remediated that, now back up a bit... there he goes, his arms can now be loosed and relaxed.

When the whole body position and turn entry package is done right it affords the rider the maximum of control

with the absolute minimum of effort.

Here is another view of a clean, loose run through a turn.

The human machine works this way: when the lower body is unstable,

we must rely on our arms and torso for support.

Once the lower body is stable, we have our liberty to relax the torso

and get great body position.

Notice how much lower he can go without tension.

Let's look at the difference between his moves on the bike when disconnected.

And compare that to locked on to the bike firmly.

Much more relaxed and in control.

The cross up riding style looks even worse from on board.

Everything about the rider is twisted and unnatural.

Head, shoulders, even eye position strained.

One last look at the difference between riding cross up and stiff on the bike...

... and riding in alignment. Well connected and loose.

It is easy to see how we can create instability with the bike.

What design features do sport and sport-touring bikes have,

to help prevent that?

Why do sport bikes even look the way they they do?

High back seats anchor the rider more firmly

reducing the need to hang on by grabbing the bars too tightly.

Large tanks help provide a better perch on the bike

Some riders use it for elbow or forearm rest during cornering.

It can also provide a resting place for the upper torso.

Knee cut outs on the tank side provide a more stable way to hold on, allowing the rider to use the bars less.

Rear-set foot pegs are really important

The give the rider a more stable perch for moving around on and steering the bike.

If this bike had cruiser pegs like this, it would be unrideable.

In fast turns, trying to ankle yourself firmly on the bike requires something to hold on to.

Unfortunately, the inside bar is the handiest thing

resulting in the rider pulling on it.

This makes the bike go to the outer side of the turn, because you are counter-steering.

Riffing the bike with one or both legs eliminates this problem.

Resting an elbow on the tank can help.

The hanging off style can have another unfavorable side effect.

By pulling yourself from one side of the bike to the other, using the bars,

you will make the bike wiggle.

Anchoring yourself firmly on the bike and using your legs to move,

reduces unwanted handle bar input and avoids the problem.

Is a motorcycle truly out of control when it's sliding?

How do you save it when the front or rear tire gives up traction?

Why the fast guys always crash when their bikes slide?

Well wiggles and shakes are distracting, there is a far more dramatic and deadly results

from survival reaction number 2, that's being too tight on the bike.

This is the stable position for a front wheel during the slide.

What would happen if the rider resisted this movement?

When you counter the front-end's natural attempt to stabilize the bike,

you create resistance to the front contact patch, making the slide worse

and turning into high sides like this.

- My rear tire must've gone off, sliding at turn three.

- Problems?

- I didn't know you ride here. Yeah, sliding in turn three.

- How is your throttle control through turn three?

- Really good, I already worked that out.

-Blame on the air pump? (?!)

- Yeah, now that you mention it, I think I do.

- Well, being tight on the bike can start little slides

before you get anywhere near the limits of traction.

- Really? It's not the tire?

- Could you ride it just to see?

- Sure. Always wanted to ride one of these.

- So how was it?

- Oh, the bike is great, thanks for the ride. Oh yeah... your tire is fine.

- Guess I'm making it slide, then, huh?

S.R. number two strikes again. Just too tight on the bars.

- Try it again, I'll follow you.

- Really? Thanks.

While he may not be really fast yet, our new rider is making real progress.

The three most commons reasons for front end slides are:

One: over braking going into turns.

Two: from overloading the front tire, this is called pushing the front end.

The standard solution to a pushing the front end is getting back on the gas.

And three: from slippery surfaces. Fighting the front will make you crash.

Letting the bike do its own thing, relaxed on the bars, is the right choice.

You are dangerous to yourself to the degree

you let the survival reaction number two grip you on its claws.

Take control by doing nothing

let the bike stabilize itself.

- Getting a lot of head shake over turn six.

I think it's my shock or forks. Guess it could be a bad tire

- Does it happen every lap?

- Yeah.

No, maybe once every two or three laps at first then it did it every lap.

I had to pull in.

- See, here it says bikes don't do anything every few laps,

only riders do.

So I bet if you loosen up on the bars, it will stop.

- Yeah, I think you're right.

We can contribute to or detract from the bike's stability by understanding its demands

and eliminating any unwanted or unneeded inputs.

Take braking.

With the weight forward, stiff arms and up on the tank the bike stoppies.

With less bar pressure and the rider stabilized by the tank

the bike is more stable.

Back in the seat with loose arms gives control the braking.

Even with a severe lock up, control is much improved.

An all too common error is twisting to the inside of the bike.

He's trying to gain stability, but creates tension.

Even if you don't hang off the bike, stabilizing your body is still important.

Gripping the tank with one of both of your knees as you go into and through the turn is simple and efficient.

The more firmly you anchor yourself,

the easier it is to relax your torso and arms.

For mid corner, suspension is set up for a given amount of weight forward aft.

The bike can not compensate for you moving around on it.

As we covered already, get into your forward-aft position on the seat early

and stay there.

Just to recap, your bike's suspension can be adjusted for a variety of road and track conditions,

but you can not adjust it for excess rider input.

By being loose, the rider allows the bike's suspension to perform at its best.

The main points of rider input are:

Hanging off too late creates instability. Get over early.

Hanging off too far creates instability as well.

Being disconnected on the bike looks like this. Locked on is better.

Twisting on the bike. Going with the bike.

The seat provides stability and so does the tank. Use your pegs.

Riding stiff. Riding loose.

Using the bars to hold on. Using the tank.

Tight equals front end shake. Loose, stable.

Crossing on the bike. Going with it.

Tight, it slides. Loose, it recovers.

Acceleration head shake. Acceleration stability.

Breaking instability. Locked on in the seat gives good brake stability.

- Yup, all those things have happened to me.

- Yeah, you should just let the bike do the work.

I'm causing my own handling problems and making myself tired.

Stabilizing the bike is the rider's goal in any corner.

Throttle error or entering a corner too fast,

are two of our know enemies in getting that result.

But perhaps the most important of all is your line through the turn.

Having a poor line trough any corner,

makes the riders job stabilizing the bike, with good throttle control, all but impossible.

We've already explored counter-steering,

and know it gives us effective and precise control of the bike's direction.

But there are three underlying principles to steering that you must understand.

There are three tools for use for executing our line.

One, where you begin the turn.

Two, how quickly you flick the bike over.

Three, how far you lean it.

Let's investigate the first one, where you start the turn,

and see how it can affect your cornering.

- Hey, you're doing good, huh?

- Yeah, it's getting better.

- Looks like it.

I'm getting a feel for throttle control, but it's inconsistent.

One lap I'm good,

the next I'm storing the gas in the same turn.

- I know what you mean, my line changes from lap to lap,

so I don't know if it's the confidence to keep rolling it on.

Gets to me.

- Yeah, that happens to me too. It totally blows my confidence and I'm right back to rolling it off.

I hate it when that S.R. happens.

- It says here, that are eleven things that are influenced by where you turn into a corner.

Eleven things...

Guess what... both our problems are on that list.

- Really?

But what's the solution?

What can you do to bypass these problems?

The answer is too simple, find and use a good turning point.

Finding a turning mark and using it will give you consistency.

It helps to avoid problems like inconsistent lines and throttle errors.

How can you find a good line?

Once you establish a reference point

the trial-and-error method will tell you what works and what doesn't.

That tire snake on the pavement is a good reference point.

He tries a latter turning, but that chops up his brake release.

A little earlier runs in too wide and the throttle goes off and on.

Right after it, he calls a clean line and, most importantly, the throttle control is great.

- Let's look at some cornering theory.

What kind of line will allow you to get back on the gas, most easiest for good throttle control throughout the corner?

One that starts here?

- No!

- Good. One that starts here?

- No!

All right. How about this one. Starts here?

- Yes!

- Good. There are actually eleven ways

your turn entry position or your turning point affects how you corner.

First, let's look at your overall corner speed.

He's taking an early turning resulting in an inside line.

It's plenty fast coming in, but slow on mid turn and exit.

Turning in later, trying to strike now the turn,

allowing him to get back on the gas earlier.

Your entry point has a huge effect on overall corner speed.

While the low, inside entry had a high approach speed,

it was slow on mid corner and exit.

The higher, outside turn entry allows him to point the bike more towards the exit.

Even before mid corner he is back on the gas.

Now let's look at how entry point affects braking.

Your beginning and ending brake points are both modified

by the way you start your turn.

On the low inside line you lean over longer and brake pressure is critical

because it is easy to lock up the front wheel.

On the later turn entry it's easier and safer,

because more braking is done with less lean angle

and it, most often, is completed earlier

allowing the rider to get back on the gas.

This is a huge difference. If the pavement was slippery, which line would you choose?

Finishing the braking earlier or later? Your turning point determines that.

Let's follow him below the high line.

He ends his braking just as he flicking it in and he gets a better drive.

By the way, even thought it's usually a minor point,

downshifting is another thing that is affected by way your turning.

Of the key tools of turning, one is how quickly you can get the bike over.

It's easy to see how the early and later entries compare in this regard.

The low entry requires lazy steering.

You can't flick the bike onto its line.

The later turning allows for a decisive steering commitment to the turn.

Mid corner and exit stability and speed start when the gas comes on.

Watch both lines to see when the gas comes back on.

Our later entry rider was able to get back on the gas

thirty seven feet earlier, that's five bike lengths.

Earlier on the gas means stability through more of the corner.

Your turning position has an enormous effect on that.

That's six points so far.

A good drive off the turn is number seven.

Low line entry checks your drive,

because number eight on the list, lean angle, also comes into play.

You will lean over further and longer from a low line entry.

Seeing the line that's taking you too wide does not inspire confidence.

Seeing one that points you forward up the road, does.

Number ten is how much road you have at the widest point of your exit.

On the street, the same principle applies.

Staying in your lane through the middle and exit of the turn

it's all easier with the latter entry point.

This helps reduce panic and provides rider to the

greater margin of error in regard to oncoming traffic.

The eleventh and final aspect that is affected by our turn point

is mid corner lean angle correction.

While they may seen like fact of life, they are a common rider error

that results from the same tech point: early turn entry.

Throttle control rule number one:

the clean, continuous, roll on is always easier

once you have established a workable turn point.

The single, biggest cause of S.R. #1,

going off the gas when you should be rolling on, is a bad line.

We now know all eleven aspects of your riding that are affected by your turn in point.

Let's quickly reveal them.

One, where the brakes go on. Two, where the brakes go off.

Three, where the throttle comes back on. Four, where the bike is pointed once fully leaned over.

Five, where you will finish the turn. How wide will you leave when at the exit.

Six, where you will downshift. Seven, how much lean angle will you use.

Eight, how much (if any) steering corrections you will make.

Nine, how quickly or slowly you will have to steer the bike.

Ten, how much speed you can approach the turn with.

Eleven, how quickly or slowly the throttle may be applied.

Good. Those are the eleven things affected by your turn in point.

Now, let's look at how quickly you turn the bike

and how that affects your cornering.

How quickly do you need to turn?

Not very quick in this situation.

It would be silly to quick flick the bike when you don't need to.

Here is the perfect flick rate. Being able to get a quick, clean flick has many advantages.

How does the rate you flick the bike affect your line in any series of corners

like these "s"s?

This rider's turn right was too slow to get him on line to set up for the next corner.

This rider makes the same approach, starts his turn at the same place

and he's running the same speed and with the quicker flick.

His setup for the next turn is a perfect line and will work exactly the same way for you.

- Once you begin your turn, where do the cornering forces start to push you?

- Outside or wide in turn.

- Exactly. If this is your intended line,

and you're lazy bringing the bike over, where will you go?

- Outside or wide in the turn.

- So, if you flick the bike a little quicker, would it get on that line?

- YES!

- Class, you are brilliant today.

Since we don't like to run wide in turns and for a very good reason in situations like this one,

we must continue to lean the bike further and further to make the corner.

Lazy steering forces you to lean the bike more than it's necessary and you'll be lean over longer.

Let's compare.

The quicker flick brings the bike on to the desired line,

no extra lean needed.

Look how much space he has on the outside of the turn.

That will come in handy on the street, in an emergency,

or on the track for speed.

And look at the difference in acceleration.

- What are the immediate benefits of getting the bike turn quicker?

- More control.

- Yes, yes, that's true, but why do we have more control and confidence?

- Early on the gas, better throttle control.

- And better traction.

- It's not leaned over as long.

- More choices on your lines.

- You get on your line earlier.

- Less lean angle.

- I think you've got it.

- Are they even in school?

- Maybe that's a version of the pony school, huh?

- I wish my mom would take to check when I was ten,

I'd be world champion now.

- Yeah, you're right.

The approach speed and turn in point for both riders was very similar

So what was the key difference that got this one through

and put this one in the dirt?

Let's look again.

At this lazy steering right, even if he leaned over further,

the results would have been the same or worse.

The simple solution is flicking the bike quick enough to make the line.

Now what would happen when they increase their turn entry speed?

His results would just get worse.

With the higher entry speed than before this rider still makes his line.

It is quite simple. In turns like this

as the speed increases, so must your flick rate.

To have the confidence, good turn entry speed is nothing more or less than faith in your own

ability to get the bike turn quick enough.

OK, we want to able to turn the bike as quickly as possible for lots of reasons.

Like accident avoidance,

to not run wide in turns or off the road,

avoiding being late on the gas and having excess lean angle,

not to mention you will get a better drive.

How do we make this possible? How do you become efficient at your steering? What works and what doesn't work?

The plainly rotation of the bars looks like this.

At a steeper angle like this, half your input into the bars

goes straight down, this is a total waste of energy.

At this angle you're still only 75% efficient.

Here, your input is in line with bar rotation and is 100% efficient.

This is another great example of how understanding the technology puts you in full control.

A simple experiment will tell you if what a I say is true or not.

Get forward on the bike and position yourself directly over the bars

and try to push the bike down in to a lean.

A lot of effort, but not much happens.

All motorcycles work the same way. It's the horizontal rotation of the bars that gets the job done.

A huge part of rider confidence

is knowing you can quickly turn when you want to or need to.

It's not about the kind of bike you ride, it's all about control.

Some say flicking the bike too quickly is dangerous,

or makes the bike unstable, but done correctly it is clean, smooth and efficient.

- Any questions about flicking your bike?

- When can't you lean the bike over quickly?

- OK, let's figure it out.

Could you quick flick your bike

if the pavement or weather were slippery?

- No!

- Could you quick flick

on cold tire or cold pavement?

- No!

- Could you quick flick with the hand full of front break?

- No!

- Could you quick flick with the tire that was brand new or not scrubbed in?

- No!

You! Could you quick flick with totally worn out tires?

- No!

- Do you need to quick flick your bike at low speeds?

- No!

- Now, do you get the idea?

- YES!

Our two new riders have come a long way towards understanding how the bike steers and where to turn it.

Their confidence to lean the bike more is a direct result of that.

Riders who understand this both look and feel in control of their bikes.

- It's amazing. Once you understand the actual technology steering the bike,

it totally changes your riding.

- Yeah, completely changed. I feel in control steering the bike now.

I know how quick to turn in, I know when and where I need to lean it...

It's like I'm seeing the turns completely different now.

My S.R.s are way quieter.

- It's so simple.

- Yeah, once you understand it.

In double-apex turns like this one,

things can, sometimes, feel a little busy.

Trying to maintain a continuous throttle roll on only runs you wide,

because it's really two turns.

But the rider has more choices.

Just roll the gas only a little bit and hold it there...

Not horrible, but not stable either.

Get on gas and then off to turn in for the second part of the turn then back to the gas...

But that only chops it up, doesn't it?

He could go in harder and brake a bit, then on the gas again, that could work...

but he better be super smooth.

OK, how do we do it?

Timing is critical.

Getting back into the throttle early stabilizes the bike.

Then, mid corner, instead of rolling it off, he just stops rolling on.

Here is where your body position comes into play in a big way.

When you stop your roll on, some weight transfers forward.

If you are low and to the outside of the bike, it corks around,

tightening the bike's turning radius. That helps to get it pointed toward the exit without upsetting the bike.

Look at how much earlier this rider is getting into his down and to inside body position.

Here, we see an average hang-off position.

Here is a more aggressive body position. Notice he is able to hold a tighter line.

Now that's the "hook turn" technique, it can work in almost any cornering situation.

On the road, this technique can be used quite effectively,

if you find yourself running wide in a turn.

Dropping to the inside and down position, plus a smooth roll off, one momentarily hesitation,

not a chop off of gas tends to tighten the turn for you.

And don't forget to look way you want to go.

That's way better than the alternative.

Here is a technique that can aid you greatly in your efforts to steer your bike accurately.

We quite naturally push off our pivot from that trailing foot to produce maximum power and control.

With that in mind, using the left leg to generate the power to

press on the right bar, and vice-versa, is a logical step.

It provides the rider with maximum stability on the bike.

Stability equals control and strength.

As we lock out lower leg into the bike from the foot peg to the tank we begin to create lower body stability.

The next step is a slight tightening of the thigh muscles.

This locks the pelvis in position, which, then, provides a stable base for the whole torso.

With the torso stable, the rider's ability to apply pressure to the bars is vastly improved.

We call this pivot steering.

You might call it power steering,

because once you master it, it feels so easy to steer the bike.

Work on your quick turn. It pays huge difference in control

and confidence in any situation, on any motorcycle.

- Now that we know what the turn point is all about,

how often do you get it just right?

Is it usually too early or too late?

- Too early!

- That's right! Riders tend to turn in too early

and there is a reason for it.

- Would you like know how to change this part of your riding?

- YeaWOOOEeahhh! :)

Going where we look is an unfortunate survival reaction,

in fact, it's S.R. #5.

For example, if this rider looks at the inside of his next turn, he will go there.

Once our attention becomes fixed on something, we steer towards it.

In common parlance it's called "target fixation". And that's what causes you riders to take

too early an entry into corners, all run wide, like this.

We already know what the results of turning in too early are.

Training yourself to look in, without turning it, is how we overcome this S.R..

We call it the "two-step" technique.

It is also the key to finding a line that doesn't take you in too early.

Even on unfamiliar roads.

Your first step is estimate your turn in point on the road ahead.

You don't know the road, so you're just establishing a temporary reference point.

Step two is find your mid corner position.

Where you quick the inside of the turn is your apex.

The trick here is looking in to find it without turning the bike in at the same time.

Now he looks in, but notice how he's staying wide in the corner.

Now, would you be able to see a line from this position?

No.

Keep looking, but don't turn yet.

How about from here?

Not yet, but it's getting better.

OK, now you can see your apex clearly.

That is exactly where your turn in point should be.

Nothing provides more confidence than knowing you're in a good line.

And it does wonders for your throttle control.

- Hey, you really started to get that bike turned.

- Yeah, I just wish I was more consistent with my lines.

Feeling kinda lost.

- Well, you know there is four chapters in here about vision.

There is a technique in one of them, it's called "the two-step" that's supposed to help.

Two-step.

Let's take a look and see if we can sort out his inconsistent lines.

He run pretty wide on that pass.

Let's see how he's timing his looking and turning.

Big mistake, he's looking and turning.

Now he's not running as wide, but it's another different line.

The "two-step" visual technique solves more than just where to turn in to a corner

it can also help with your consistency.

In the end, your line through only'll be as accurate and consistent as your visual skills.

Knowing exactly where you want the bike to go before entering

using the "two-step" technique handles that.

Applying the two-step technique allows the rider to gain space and time at the entry of the turn,

the apex and pick up his next turn point accurately.

Once you truly learn to lead with you head and eyes, you will able to

enter all corners smoother, more accurately

and, for track riding, usually faster.

It's as good as it gets.

Using the two-step turn entry technique, also helps combat the looking,

going early S.R.s.

By training yourself in this technique

you will always be two visual steps ahead in every turn entrance.

- Wow, what a great technique!

I don't feel rush to the turn point. I mean, at all!

- No, me neither! Hey, that two-step works!

Hard braking can be both confusing and terrifying. No other control action on the bike

can produce such dramatic results with so little effort.

Most riders survival reactions run wide under heavy braking.

Brake technology has come a long way.

These improvements give riders far more choices on how to brake

but the laws of physics still govern how hard we can use them.

Brakes, just like the throttle, are lean angle sensitive.

The more lean angle you use, the less you can use either of them.

This brings up all kinds of questions about technique.

Should I do all my braking straight up?

Or should I try other brakes into the turn?

Should I brake easy at first and hard at the end or the other way around?

How about easy, then hard and then easy again?

While braking, it's easy to lose sight of the real goal.

Getting your turn entry speed perfect is that goal.

With that in mind, which brake pressure sequence is best?

Turn entry speed errors are easiest to make

when you are hard on the brakes towards the end of braking.

In the fine art of braking, gradually trading the brake off

is the way to accurately find your entry speed.

Straight-up or trail braking. It's the exact same problem.

Maintain control of your entry speed.

Overbraking, S.R. #7,

often create other problems like poor throttle control,

and extra steering corrections.

Both unsettle the bike and can even cause excess wheel spin.

Panic braking in the middle of turns is something we try to avoid

because it stands the bike up abruptly.

Unconsciously, we apply pressure to the bars to maintain our line

That additional input is one of the primary reasons

for trail braking crashes.

Restraining bar flat out does not let the front-end fall off the road, which reduces traction even more.

Despite its dangers and drawbacks, trail braking is a useful tool.

Just imagine yourself leaning into a turn at 200mph with the brakes on like this.

If you have to break in a turn because of an emergency, like debris or surprise decreasing radius,

bringing the bike up as you do it your best hope for not washing out the front-end.

Simultaneous braking and downshifting smoothes things out and reduces distractions.

This helps you get your turn entry speed right.

Watch the timing of the the clutch and throttle action in slow motion.

Slipper clutch has seem to make this unnecessary, and modern technologies will probably make it an obsolete technique someday.

Too bad. It's quite fun when you get it right the old fashioned way.

Riders come up with all sorts of strange variations

to solve braking and downshifting.

He's downshifting first and braking later.

That's unnecessary engine abuse. Use the brake first.

Pads are cheap, engines are expensive.

Some just downshift and don't bother to use the breakes at all! In some situations

when the brakes aren't needed that's OK,

but again: pads are cheap.

Letting the clutch out slowly seems to solve it for some riders

but that's just extra wear and tear on the clutch and drive train.

Here he is revving the motor, but the clutch release is so slow he loses all the revs on his throttle blip.

Many riders use the sloppy method of downshifting.

No revs at all and a slow release of the clutch.

Getting too big a throttle blip over-revs the motor

and causes de bike to search forward with each gear change.

Another common error is over-revving and varying the brake lever pressure from the exaggerated wrist movement.

This is choppy and causes the bike to pogo.

Too early downshifting uses the engine as a break and over-revs it.

Not revving the bike between shifts and inconsistent brake pressure pogos the bike up and down.

Here, he's shifting and easing out the clutch slowly.

That takes time and attention.

He's revving it, but too high and still on and off the brake lever, pogoing the bike.

Making clean downshifts and maintain the control of the brake lever throughout will help.

Letting your fingers slight over the brake lever

while you control the pressure works really well.

Downshifting without the clutch is another way of handling it.

Careful timing of the throttle grip and the gear lever

makes it surprisingly easy and smooth, with or without a slipper clutch.

It may take some practice to make them perfectly smooth.

Elapsed time of throttle 1/8 sec

- Hey, you guys were looking pretty good out there in the corners.

- Thanks. You know, we learned a lot from your book.

- Ah, it's great. I'm really glad to hear that.

I did notice one thing, though.

- How you guys feel about your braking and downshifting?

Hmmm, I see...

So, clutch in, gas on and off, clutch in, gas on and off,

clutch out. Clutch in, gas on and off, clutch out. You got it.

Clutch in, gas on and off, clutch out. Just a little coordination point. It's really all it is.

- I can't believe how distracted I used to be.

- Absolutely, even after I improved my visual skills,

I was something rush at the turn entries.

- Well... so, I guess this is a pretty good example

of how a little coaching can really help.

Traction is the obvious limiting factor on our speed and direction changes.

We've explored how throttle control, rider input,

and surface problems can affect traction, but let's take a closer look.

A new rider's perception of traction is a little sketchy.

As we gain more experience with traction, our perception improves.

There are some classical approaches to understanding traction

used by average riders and pros alike.

They can give riders a new perspective on tire grip. It's a classic route to understanding traction.

Here's Keith's solution for understanding traction.

He calls it "the lean and slide bike".

About this time, most riders will chop the gas in panic.

It takes a lot more to lose traction than most riders think,

but there are situations you should be aware of.

Of course, if the tire was new and not yet scrubbed in, or too old,

too cold, tire pressure wrong, over or under inflated,

If you are riding on slippery surface or a polished surface, leaning the bike over too far

other mechanical problems, it would slide.

The slide bike helps train riders to avoid slide errors.

Watch what happens when he chops the gas.

As we've already seen, when rolled off and not chopped

it is far less violent.

Overriding the grip of new or cold tires is a classic novice riding error.

Even with relatively modest lean angles and speed

a cool tire on a cool day can surprise you when you first go out.

It doesn't take much to slide.

Tire grip and temperature are proportional.

A cold tire feels like it has maybe 25% its normal grip.

A warm tire on a warm day feels more like 75% or more right away.

Don't be a fool. Gradually bring the speed and temperature up.

Never trust the tires, trust yourself.

Learn to bring them up to temperature according to conditions.

In generally good conditions, as we have here,

Modern tires deliver excellent traction.

Good throttle control is the foundation that allows the rider to explore the limits of traction.

Even with good throttle control, a small slide can start or get out of hand when the rider is tense.

The rider's ability to be comfortable with traction limits depends upon having the key elements

of throttle control, rider input and visual skill.

Two other aspects of traction are important to understand.

The more lean angle you use, the less side grip you have.

The solution? Even when the rear tire is totally lit up,

bringing the bike up, into the slide, helps the rider maintain control.

The lean and slide bike is one of the training methods used

at Keith's school to help riders gain that confidence and the experience with traction.

All seven factors, visual skills, steering, turn points,

line, rider input, lean angle and picking up the bike

must be under the rider's control for him to be confident with the throttle and the traction.

New technology is great, but even with traction control and modern electronics,

the rider has to work his way up to using it.

Being in control of these seven factors

is the quickest and easiest route to confidence.

- I'm so stomped. This Twist II book really helped my riding out.

- Totally. Feels like I'm making improvement every ride I take.

It says there is no limits.

You know, I see more ways to apply this information every time I read this.

- How good we can actually get?

- Hey Will, how are you doing?

- Hey, you both look pretty good out there.

- Thanks.

- Yeah, but after watching you ride, you know, it just makes wanna kick it up a notch.

So how did you do it?

- I went to school.

- School?

- Let me ask you something, what do you do for a living?

- Well, I'm a doctor.

- I'm a software engineer, why?

- Well, did you wake up one day just knowing how to do your trade?

Or did you learn it by going to school?

- OK, point taken... So, how do I find a school?

- Is there where you went? - There's where I went.

California Superbike School. Best training you'll ever get.

- See you, Will.

- What do you think?

- Oh, you guys must really push it hard!

- How do you ride that thing to the edge?

- I've learned a few things over the years.

- Do you got advice for us?

- Advice? Is a lot a advice out there, guys.

Won't you get the real tackle on riding?

- We will lend you this copy of the Bible cornering.

We'll be here next weekend, you can give to us then.

- Twist of the Wrist II.

Thanks a lot, guys.

- No problem.

- Looks like I'll have to get myself another copy.

**** Kudos to the okruhari.cz guys for the original file in Czech. Moved from Czech back to English by Eduardo L. V. Tafner via listening. 2010/Dec/08.

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