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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:04,046 --> 00:00:08,300 Hidden away in the vastness of the Pacific, and undiscovered by men 2 00:00:08,425 --> 00:00:13,931 until only a few centuries ago, lies a group of strange volcanic islands. 3 00:00:20,687 --> 00:00:25,943 Each is a crucible where evolution proceeds at extraordinary speed. 4 00:00:29,696 --> 00:00:30,822 Galapagos. 5 00:00:48,841 --> 00:00:52,719 Each island contains its own unique community. 6 00:00:57,099 --> 00:01:00,561 The discovery of these creatures inspired an idea 7 00:01:00,602 --> 00:01:04,106 that changed our understanding of life on Earth... 8 00:01:04,189 --> 00:01:05,357 Evolution. 9 00:01:16,118 --> 00:01:19,621 And today, scientists on Galapagos are continuing to make 10 00:01:19,746 --> 00:01:23,000 discoveries that shed light on that crucial process 11 00:01:23,125 --> 00:01:26,503 and have revealed that human beings can be just as powerful 12 00:01:26,628 --> 00:01:29,631 a driving force for change as any other factor. 13 00:01:48,525 --> 00:01:53,238 Something here was the catalyst that produced the most spectacular 14 00:01:53,280 --> 00:01:57,784 explosion of biological diversity in the world. 15 00:01:57,910 --> 00:02:00,621 It's not just the number of species that appeared, 16 00:02:00,662 --> 00:02:05,167 but the rate at which they did so, and the result is so extraordinary, 17 00:02:05,292 --> 00:02:08,420 it inspired the most important of all biological theories - 18 00:02:08,545 --> 00:02:12,674 Charles Darwin's evolution by natural selection. 19 00:02:12,799 --> 00:02:16,553 And now, 200 years later, we're beginning to understand 20 00:02:16,678 --> 00:02:21,308 the deep-lying forces that produced this biological wonderland. 21 00:02:38,450 --> 00:02:41,328 One of those factors is isolation. 22 00:02:52,589 --> 00:02:56,593 A part of Isabela Island, the largest of the 16 in the 23 00:02:56,718 --> 00:03:01,223 archipelago, is so difficult to get to, it's hardly ever visited. 24 00:03:07,855 --> 00:03:09,481 Wolf Volcano. 25 00:03:15,362 --> 00:03:19,116 Its giant crater lies exactly on the Equator, 26 00:03:19,241 --> 00:03:22,244 and is encircled internally by steep cliffs. 27 00:03:24,621 --> 00:03:26,248 And on its flanks, 28 00:03:26,373 --> 00:03:29,251 evidence was discovered of a catastrophe that might, 29 00:03:29,376 --> 00:03:34,506 paradoxically, eventually lead to the creation of a new species. 30 00:03:37,509 --> 00:03:40,512 This flow of recently solidified lava 31 00:03:40,637 --> 00:03:44,766 has created an impassable barrier 100 metres wide, 32 00:03:44,850 --> 00:03:47,394 right through the vegetation. 33 00:03:49,897 --> 00:03:54,151 The fresh lava is razor-sharp, and almost impossible to cross. 34 00:03:56,653 --> 00:03:59,156 On it lie bones. 35 00:04:01,158 --> 00:04:05,662 Bleached white by the baking sun, they're those of giant tortoises. 36 00:04:14,796 --> 00:04:19,676 Some animals that got stuck here are still clinging to life. 37 00:04:25,557 --> 00:04:27,309 Tortoises are tough. 38 00:04:29,186 --> 00:04:32,689 They can survive for months without any food or water. 39 00:04:33,941 --> 00:04:37,444 And that worsened their fate - 40 00:04:37,528 --> 00:04:39,321 it will take them months to die. 41 00:04:48,830 --> 00:04:53,919 Why so many tortoises tried to cross the lava barrier, nobody knows. 42 00:04:53,961 --> 00:04:59,299 What drove them to keep attempting this impossible journey? 43 00:04:59,341 --> 00:05:01,844 Perhaps they were desperately trying to rejoin 44 00:05:01,969 --> 00:05:03,470 other members of their group. 45 00:05:06,598 --> 00:05:09,726 Their deaths, however, are significant. 46 00:05:11,353 --> 00:05:15,858 They illustrate a principle that applies to the whole of nature. 47 00:05:15,983 --> 00:05:20,445 It's not unique to the Galapagos, but it's because of the Galapagos 48 00:05:20,487 --> 00:05:23,240 that we first came to understand it. 49 00:05:26,118 --> 00:05:29,746 This tragic scene, filmed for the first time, 50 00:05:29,872 --> 00:05:34,751 may provide a clue as to how a new species may start to evolve. 51 00:05:39,131 --> 00:05:43,135 The lava flow created an impassable physical barrier 52 00:05:43,260 --> 00:05:47,389 across the tortoises' territory, dividing it into two. 53 00:05:50,893 --> 00:05:56,523 So two tortoise populations that were once one must now live apart. 54 00:05:58,025 --> 00:06:00,235 If there is any significant difference, 55 00:06:00,277 --> 00:06:03,363 now or in the future, between their two territories, 56 00:06:03,405 --> 00:06:07,409 the tortoises may eventually become two different species. 57 00:06:17,794 --> 00:06:22,174 Animals and plants are evolving throughout the natural world. 58 00:06:23,675 --> 00:06:27,763 But it was the strange creatures of Galapagos that first revealed 59 00:06:27,804 --> 00:06:29,056 how that happens. 60 00:06:31,058 --> 00:06:36,688 Nearly 200 years ago, the islands were visited by a young naturalist. 61 00:06:38,023 --> 00:06:41,318 On September 16th 1835, 62 00:06:41,443 --> 00:06:45,697 HMS Beagle arrived in the Galapagos Islands, 63 00:06:45,822 --> 00:06:50,953 and the 26-year-old Charles Darwin stepped ashore to explore. 64 00:06:53,205 --> 00:06:54,206 At the time, 65 00:06:54,331 --> 00:06:58,460 very little was known about the natural history of the islands. 66 00:07:00,712 --> 00:07:05,092 Darwin, initially, was fascinated by its geology. 67 00:07:09,096 --> 00:07:13,851 But it was the animals that gave him his historic insight. 68 00:07:17,980 --> 00:07:21,984 Darwin was only on these islands for five weeks. 69 00:07:22,109 --> 00:07:25,362 But in that short time, there were things he saw 70 00:07:25,487 --> 00:07:29,116 and conversations he had which stuck in his mind. 71 00:07:29,241 --> 00:07:33,745 For example, the British vice-governor of Floreana Island 72 00:07:33,871 --> 00:07:38,458 said that he could tell which island a giant tortoise came from 73 00:07:38,500 --> 00:07:41,003 simply by the shape of its shell. 74 00:07:45,382 --> 00:07:48,760 He pondered on the vice-governor's casual remark. 75 00:07:50,137 --> 00:07:53,098 Why were populations of tortoises on separate islands 76 00:07:53,140 --> 00:07:55,517 all slightly different from one another? 77 00:08:06,028 --> 00:08:09,531 He set about making a collection of animals and plants 78 00:08:09,615 --> 00:08:12,159 from all the islands he visited. 79 00:08:17,789 --> 00:08:21,418 Although it was the tortoises that first alerted Darwin 80 00:08:21,543 --> 00:08:25,631 to the differences between animals on different islands, 81 00:08:25,672 --> 00:08:29,635 it was his collection of these undramatic little birds, 82 00:08:29,676 --> 00:08:32,012 the finches, which provided him 83 00:08:32,054 --> 00:08:36,058 with the most substantial evidence for his great theory. 84 00:08:39,186 --> 00:08:42,314 We now know that the ancestral Galapagos finches 85 00:08:42,439 --> 00:08:45,317 arrived in these islands about 2 million years ago. 86 00:08:46,693 --> 00:08:51,907 Since then, they have diversified into a number of different species. 87 00:08:51,949 --> 00:08:54,034 Today, there are 13 of them, 88 00:08:54,076 --> 00:08:57,454 distributed throughout the archipelago. 89 00:08:57,538 --> 00:08:59,831 Each has its own special talents. 90 00:09:01,583 --> 00:09:04,837 The woodpecker finch has discovered how to use a tool 91 00:09:04,962 --> 00:09:08,841 to winkle grubs out of their burrows in the branches of trees. 92 00:09:14,721 --> 00:09:19,601 The vampire finch has learned how to extract blood from sitting birds. 93 00:09:25,983 --> 00:09:29,319 Darwin, when he returned to England, brought back with him 94 00:09:29,361 --> 00:09:32,114 a wide variety of specimens of all kinds, 95 00:09:34,491 --> 00:09:37,619 and he spent years studying his collections. 96 00:09:40,873 --> 00:09:44,209 He had a range of finches from several of the islands, 97 00:09:44,251 --> 00:09:48,130 and he noticed one particular way in which they differed. 98 00:09:50,132 --> 00:09:52,259 They had beaks of different sizes. 99 00:09:55,762 --> 00:09:56,889 Why? 100 00:10:00,726 --> 00:10:02,644 An idea grew in his mind. 101 00:10:05,647 --> 00:10:10,027 It would also apply to tortoises - maybe to all animals and plants, 102 00:10:10,152 --> 00:10:11,528 wherever they occurred. 103 00:10:16,533 --> 00:10:20,162 Painstakingly, meticulously, he started to accumulate 104 00:10:20,287 --> 00:10:23,999 evidence from all over the world to support his idea, 105 00:10:24,041 --> 00:10:27,753 and he called the process that produced new species 106 00:10:27,794 --> 00:10:30,422 "evolution by natural selection." 107 00:10:35,761 --> 00:10:38,764 And nowhere is its workings more vivadly evident, 108 00:10:38,931 --> 00:10:42,434 than here when it first occured to him, in the Galapogos. 109 00:10:45,020 --> 00:10:46,813 He realised why it was 110 00:10:46,939 --> 00:10:49,566 that there were several species of giant tortoises. 111 00:10:52,319 --> 00:10:57,574 That original species probably had a high-domed shell, like this one, 112 00:10:57,699 --> 00:11:01,537 and that's very useful on well watered islands like this, 113 00:11:01,578 --> 00:11:04,790 where you have to barge your way through the vegetation. 114 00:11:04,831 --> 00:11:08,585 But on other islands, there are other problems. 115 00:11:17,344 --> 00:11:21,723 In the southeast corner of the archipelago lies Espanola Island. 116 00:11:29,106 --> 00:11:33,735 Here, there is virtually no edible vegetation at all. 117 00:11:35,487 --> 00:11:40,242 Except, that is, for this prickly pear cactus, opuntia. 118 00:11:41,493 --> 00:11:45,372 But this species of opuntia is very tall. 119 00:11:46,582 --> 00:11:49,209 And it has a tough, woody trunk. 120 00:11:49,251 --> 00:11:51,211 The only parts worth eating 121 00:11:51,253 --> 00:11:55,007 are the fleshy leaves and flowers at the top. 122 00:11:55,132 --> 00:11:58,510 Any giant tortoise that could reach them could get a meal. 123 00:12:01,388 --> 00:12:05,893 Tortoises with low, round fronts to their shells couldn't do that. 124 00:12:09,521 --> 00:12:12,149 But those with a peak at the front of their shell, 125 00:12:12,274 --> 00:12:15,402 and long necks, could just manage it. 126 00:12:15,527 --> 00:12:19,281 So they were the ones that survived and produced young. 127 00:12:24,912 --> 00:12:28,790 Over many thousands of generations and millions of years, 128 00:12:28,916 --> 00:12:31,543 the shell shape of the Espanola tortoise 129 00:12:31,668 --> 00:12:34,296 became more and more exaggerated. 130 00:12:38,675 --> 00:12:43,180 Now, the peak at the front of the shell is shaped like a saddle. 131 00:12:50,687 --> 00:12:53,565 Such a change didn't happen just on Espanola - 132 00:12:53,690 --> 00:12:56,068 different islands had their own versions. 133 00:12:59,446 --> 00:13:03,075 Eventually, there were 15 different species on the islands, 134 00:13:03,158 --> 00:13:05,577 all descended from a single founder. 135 00:13:09,081 --> 00:13:14,336 But why should the environments of the islands be so different? 136 00:13:14,461 --> 00:13:18,966 Well, a hint of that reason may come from looking at films 137 00:13:19,049 --> 00:13:21,844 I shot right here, back in 1978. 138 00:13:23,095 --> 00:13:26,682 (SPEAKING IN 1978) In these programmes, we're going to survey 139 00:13:26,723 --> 00:13:30,227 the immeasurable number of animals that have been produced 140 00:13:30,352 --> 00:13:34,356 by natural selection, and look at them not as isolated oddities... 141 00:13:34,481 --> 00:13:40,821 That image of me, shot 30 years ago, indicates something extraordinary. 142 00:13:40,863 --> 00:13:46,869 In that time, the rock on which I was sitting has moved its position 143 00:13:46,994 --> 00:13:52,875 by about a metre from where I was then to where I am now. 144 00:13:52,958 --> 00:13:55,252 In fact, the whole of this island 145 00:13:55,377 --> 00:13:58,380 is drifting across the surface of the globe 146 00:13:58,505 --> 00:14:01,633 at a rate of about three centimetres a year, 147 00:14:01,758 --> 00:14:05,137 roughly the rate at which my fingernails grow. 148 00:14:05,262 --> 00:14:09,266 That may not sound much, but in the 3 million odd years 149 00:14:09,391 --> 00:14:13,896 since this island emerged above the surface of the ocean, 150 00:14:14,021 --> 00:14:19,776 it has drifted in a south-easterly direction by about 60 miles. 151 00:14:24,281 --> 00:14:28,160 Movements in the Earth's crust are the key to understanding 152 00:14:28,285 --> 00:14:31,663 the archipelago's extraordinary evolutionary history. 153 00:14:33,290 --> 00:14:37,002 A giant hotspot, rising from the Earth's molten core, 154 00:14:37,044 --> 00:14:41,423 began to build the Galapagos 4 million years ago. 155 00:14:54,061 --> 00:14:56,897 But, as the island drifted away from it, 156 00:14:56,939 --> 00:15:00,317 other volcanoes replaced it, one after the other. 157 00:15:03,570 --> 00:15:08,200 Each was built from an accumulation of ash and lava. 158 00:15:09,701 --> 00:15:14,081 But then, as each moved away, eruptions ceased. 159 00:15:17,960 --> 00:15:20,963 So a group of islands appeared, one after the other. 160 00:15:34,977 --> 00:15:37,855 The islands were separated from one another by water, 161 00:15:37,980 --> 00:15:41,942 so their populations can't, for the most part, mix. 162 00:15:41,984 --> 00:15:45,362 But they're just close enough for an occasional animal 163 00:15:45,487 --> 00:15:49,491 to float across and so seed a newly emerging island. 164 00:15:52,244 --> 00:15:54,872 Because the islands are of different ages, 165 00:15:54,997 --> 00:15:59,251 they contain between them a great variety of environments. 166 00:16:01,628 --> 00:16:05,632 And each has moulded its inhabitants in its own way. 167 00:16:08,760 --> 00:16:12,264 That is why their animals are so diverse. 168 00:16:20,272 --> 00:16:24,026 Each is a separate evolutionary community. 169 00:16:39,166 --> 00:16:42,920 Darwin had noticed some of the clearest differences. 170 00:16:46,798 --> 00:16:50,302 But there are many others that are less obvious. 171 00:16:52,054 --> 00:16:54,681 An isolated population of animals can change 172 00:16:54,806 --> 00:16:58,310 not only in their anatomy, but in their behaviour. 173 00:17:07,569 --> 00:17:11,698 Little lizards like this are found throughout the archipelago. 174 00:17:15,577 --> 00:17:18,956 Each island has its own distinct species. 175 00:17:22,459 --> 00:17:25,337 And they differ not so much in the way they look 176 00:17:25,420 --> 00:17:27,464 as the way they behave. 177 00:17:35,347 --> 00:17:38,475 This is a lava lizard. 178 00:17:39,852 --> 00:17:43,605 There are lots of them on the rocks around here. 179 00:17:43,730 --> 00:17:46,692 And in the breeding season, which is now, 180 00:17:46,733 --> 00:17:51,363 the males are competing with one another, 181 00:17:51,446 --> 00:17:54,867 both for territory and for females. 182 00:17:54,992 --> 00:18:00,122 And the way they do so is with press-ups. 183 00:18:00,205 --> 00:18:02,082 Watch. 184 00:18:02,124 --> 00:18:04,126 (CLICKING) 185 00:18:10,007 --> 00:18:15,012 Actually, this is a model that is used by scientists 186 00:18:15,137 --> 00:18:19,850 to investigate the way in which these lizards communicate 187 00:18:19,892 --> 00:18:21,351 with one another. 188 00:18:21,393 --> 00:18:22,895 Let's see how he gets on. 189 00:18:27,024 --> 00:18:29,151 (CLICKING) 190 00:18:35,282 --> 00:18:36,658 And there's a response. 191 00:18:38,911 --> 00:18:43,665 These press-ups vary, both in the number and the intensity, 192 00:18:43,790 --> 00:18:45,417 the speed at which they do it... 193 00:18:47,794 --> 00:18:49,671 ..and how high they bob their heads. 194 00:18:52,799 --> 00:18:57,888 The interesting thing is that the responses vary 195 00:18:57,930 --> 00:19:00,432 from species to species. 196 00:19:00,557 --> 00:19:06,688 In other words, each species has its own language of gestures. 197 00:19:11,318 --> 00:19:13,570 There are slight physical differences 198 00:19:13,695 --> 00:19:17,199 between the species of lava lizard on different islands. 199 00:19:19,826 --> 00:19:23,205 But now, because they have developed different gestures, 200 00:19:23,330 --> 00:19:25,958 they can't interbreed, even if they meet. 201 00:19:27,960 --> 00:19:30,462 They're separated by a language barrier. 202 00:22:47,201 --> 00:22:49,369 Galapagos, for its size, 203 00:22:49,494 --> 00:22:52,623 has more unique species than anywhere else on Earth. 204 00:22:54,750 --> 00:22:56,627 And all have appeared in the islands' 205 00:22:56,752 --> 00:22:58,504 comparatively short history. 206 00:23:05,469 --> 00:23:08,555 But that raises another intriguing question 207 00:23:10,599 --> 00:23:14,186 Why, did such a great number appear so quickly? 208 00:23:17,105 --> 00:23:21,151 The answer is to do with the absence of some animals 209 00:23:26,198 --> 00:23:27,783 Predators. 210 00:23:30,244 --> 00:23:33,997 The few that are here, are all very small 211 00:24:18,125 --> 00:24:22,462 The greatest concentrations of predators in the whole Archipelago 212 00:24:22,588 --> 00:24:25,674 is found on the rocky island of Fernandina. 213 00:24:27,676 --> 00:24:30,721 But they too, of their kind are rather small 214 00:24:30,804 --> 00:24:33,307 and comparatively ineffectual. 215 00:24:34,808 --> 00:24:36,810 Snakes 216 00:24:38,520 --> 00:24:40,689 The Galapagos racer. 217 00:24:44,067 --> 00:24:48,071 They search for prey in the colonies of marine iguanas. 218 00:24:51,825 --> 00:24:54,953 But all they can manage to do is to pick off the young, 219 00:24:55,037 --> 00:24:57,080 the weak and the dying. 220 00:24:57,206 --> 00:24:59,082 And even that they find quite difficult. 221 00:25:02,461 --> 00:25:05,589 They hunt in the rocks around the fringes of the colony. 222 00:25:08,592 --> 00:25:11,845 They have to use a combination of both venom and constriction 223 00:25:11,929 --> 00:25:12,971 to make a kill. 224 00:25:19,853 --> 00:25:22,856 And even then, because they're small snakes, 225 00:25:22,981 --> 00:25:25,984 it may take more than one to overcome a victim. 226 00:25:34,493 --> 00:25:37,746 And then there's a tug of war between the winners to settle 227 00:25:37,871 --> 00:25:39,373 who has the prize. 228 00:25:50,759 --> 00:25:55,389 There are other predators that prey on the iguanas from the air. 229 00:26:00,269 --> 00:26:01,770 The Galapagos hawk. 230 00:26:05,607 --> 00:26:07,526 (BIRDS CALL) 231 00:26:11,405 --> 00:26:15,158 But even this hunter is seldom powerful enough to subdue 232 00:26:15,284 --> 00:26:16,535 a big male. 233 00:26:18,412 --> 00:26:22,916 It usually waits until it finds one that is weak or encumbered. 234 00:26:38,432 --> 00:26:42,060 A pregnant female, trying to find a place to lay her eggs. 235 00:26:57,284 --> 00:27:00,078 And there are not many hawks here. 236 00:27:00,162 --> 00:27:02,915 Only 150 mated pairs, 237 00:27:02,956 --> 00:27:06,335 because there's only a limited number of nesting sites. 238 00:27:08,712 --> 00:27:12,466 There are so few birds that they make very little impact 239 00:27:12,591 --> 00:27:14,343 on the iguana population. 240 00:27:16,970 --> 00:27:20,599 So why are there no larger predators on Galapagos? 241 00:27:22,601 --> 00:27:25,604 Most of the Galapagos animals came from the rainforests 242 00:27:25,687 --> 00:27:28,357 of South America, 600 miles away. 243 00:27:28,440 --> 00:27:30,234 (THUNDERCLAP) 244 00:27:30,359 --> 00:27:33,612 There are plenty of big predators in these forests. 245 00:27:43,121 --> 00:27:46,583 Reptiles got to Galapagos by floating across the ocean 246 00:27:46,625 --> 00:27:48,126 on rafts of vegetation. 247 00:27:52,631 --> 00:27:56,009 Only hardy animals like the iguanas and tortoises 248 00:27:56,134 --> 00:27:58,262 could make that 600 mile voyage. 249 00:28:04,268 --> 00:28:07,521 The great predators of the jungles, however, are mammals - 250 00:28:07,646 --> 00:28:11,775 big, fast, and warm-blooded, like jaguars. 251 00:28:18,365 --> 00:28:20,409 (ROARS) 252 00:28:29,543 --> 00:28:33,172 If any of them had ever been carried away on a raft of vegetation, 253 00:28:33,297 --> 00:28:37,050 they would have perished out on the open ocean within a few days. 254 00:28:39,052 --> 00:28:42,556 So now, while there are many kinds of herbivorous reptiles 255 00:28:42,681 --> 00:28:43,932 in the Galapagos... 256 00:28:45,184 --> 00:28:48,312 ..there are no large predatory mammals of any kind. 257 00:28:49,813 --> 00:28:54,318 And this has had a profound effect on the animals that did get here. 258 00:28:56,195 --> 00:28:59,948 It's something noticed by every visitor who comes to the islands. 259 00:29:03,827 --> 00:29:07,331 All the animals here are amazingly tame. 260 00:29:11,335 --> 00:29:15,589 Even the little finches are happy to bathe within inches of a stranger. 261 00:29:19,343 --> 00:29:24,223 The lack of predators may have a surprisingly widespread effect. 262 00:29:24,348 --> 00:29:27,601 It's not just that animals are not frightened of strangers, 263 00:29:27,684 --> 00:29:30,354 the so-called "island tameness", 264 00:29:30,479 --> 00:29:35,067 but that time that would be spent hiding from attackers 265 00:29:35,108 --> 00:29:39,863 can now be used to find food, find mates and raise young, 266 00:29:39,988 --> 00:29:44,993 and so produce more young, which hastens the progress of evolution. 267 00:29:51,875 --> 00:29:54,837 There is no more impressive example of that 268 00:29:54,878 --> 00:29:57,005 than Fernandina's iguana colony. 269 00:29:59,007 --> 00:30:01,218 With no significant predators around, 270 00:30:01,260 --> 00:30:04,263 these herbivores produce lots of young. 271 00:30:06,765 --> 00:30:10,727 So many, that their problem is not how to defend themselves, 272 00:30:10,769 --> 00:30:14,273 but how to find enough food to support their great numbers. 273 00:30:15,524 --> 00:30:18,151 So they ventured into the sea itself, 274 00:30:18,235 --> 00:30:21,405 to graze seaweed on the sea floor. 275 00:30:23,657 --> 00:30:27,786 And although swimming in the cold sea cools them uncomfortably, 276 00:30:27,870 --> 00:30:29,538 with no predators around, 277 00:30:29,663 --> 00:30:32,791 they can soon put that right by stretching out in the sun. 278 00:30:42,301 --> 00:30:45,387 The lack of big predators has had an effect 279 00:30:45,429 --> 00:30:48,182 on all the animals of the Galapagos. 280 00:30:48,307 --> 00:30:53,020 They reproduce freely, so populations increase rapidly. 281 00:30:53,061 --> 00:30:56,190 And so, consequently, does evolutionary change. 282 00:30:59,568 --> 00:31:01,069 (BIRD CALLS) 283 00:31:26,345 --> 00:31:29,473 But island tameness has dangers. 284 00:31:31,600 --> 00:31:34,102 If a major predator does appear, 285 00:31:34,228 --> 00:31:37,981 then wildlife will be ill-equipped to defend itself. 286 00:31:45,864 --> 00:31:47,616 And one did. 287 00:31:47,699 --> 00:31:49,743 In the year 1535, 288 00:31:49,868 --> 00:31:53,747 the most successful predatory animal of all arrived... 289 00:31:56,250 --> 00:31:57,501 Man. 290 00:32:02,631 --> 00:32:04,508 By the beginning of the 17th century, 291 00:32:04,633 --> 00:32:08,262 the islands had become a haven for pirates. 292 00:32:08,345 --> 00:32:10,138 By the 19th century, 293 00:32:10,264 --> 00:32:14,142 whalers and merchantmen were calling here regularly, 294 00:32:14,268 --> 00:32:17,646 and all these ships had a disastrous effect. 295 00:32:20,274 --> 00:32:24,027 There is little or no fresh water on these islands, 296 00:32:24,152 --> 00:32:27,906 but they have a much rarer resource. 297 00:32:28,031 --> 00:32:33,620 Giant tortoises can survive without food or water for very long periods, 298 00:32:33,662 --> 00:32:37,541 so ships could come here, collect the tortoises, 299 00:32:37,666 --> 00:32:40,919 stow them in the hold, and then after weeks at sea, 300 00:32:41,170 --> 00:32:44,923 bring one out, butcher it, and have a meal of fresh meat. 301 00:32:51,305 --> 00:32:55,309 Slow, lumbering, and with no way of defending themselves, 302 00:32:55,392 --> 00:32:57,811 the tortoises were easy victims. 303 00:33:00,189 --> 00:33:02,566 The population was decimated. 304 00:33:04,318 --> 00:33:06,945 Between the 16th and 20th centuries, 305 00:33:07,070 --> 00:33:10,324 more than 100,000 were taken away and slaughtered. 306 00:33:12,242 --> 00:33:14,578 And the ships brought other dangers 307 00:33:49,446 --> 00:33:51,573 Pinta, located on the shipping route 308 00:33:51,698 --> 00:33:54,576 around the northern fringe of the archipelago, 309 00:33:54,701 --> 00:33:58,830 was a favourite stopover for ships and their hungry crews. 310 00:33:58,956 --> 00:34:02,584 And the unique Pinta tortoise was presumed extinct 311 00:34:02,709 --> 00:34:04,962 by the early 20th century. 312 00:34:09,591 --> 00:34:15,472 But in 1972, an amazing discovery was made and filmed. 313 00:34:15,597 --> 00:34:19,726 A living male Pinta tortoise was discovered in the undergrowth. 314 00:34:20,978 --> 00:34:24,857 He was taken off to a protected enclosure on the main island, 315 00:34:24,982 --> 00:34:27,359 to live out his days in comfort and safety. 316 00:34:30,362 --> 00:34:34,241 Here, he became an international celebrity, 317 00:34:34,366 --> 00:34:37,119 and he was given a name to reflect his state - 318 00:34:39,204 --> 00:34:40,497 Lonesome George. 319 00:34:43,876 --> 00:34:46,253 He's about 80 years old, 320 00:34:46,378 --> 00:34:49,631 and he's getting a bit creaky in his joints... 321 00:34:49,756 --> 00:34:52,634 As, indeed, am I. 322 00:34:54,136 --> 00:35:00,475 He is arguably the rarest animal in the world - 323 00:35:00,517 --> 00:35:03,854 certainly, there can be none rarer, 324 00:35:03,896 --> 00:35:07,232 for he is the last of his kind. 325 00:35:07,274 --> 00:35:12,154 His female died a long, long time ago. 326 00:35:12,279 --> 00:35:19,036 When he dies, the Pinta species of Galapagos tortoise will be extinct. 327 00:35:19,161 --> 00:35:23,790 But he is a very important animal. 328 00:35:23,916 --> 00:35:27,252 Probably more than any other single creature, 329 00:35:27,294 --> 00:35:32,049 he's focused the attention of the world on the fragility 330 00:35:32,174 --> 00:35:36,929 of our environment, and he's stimulated science 331 00:35:37,054 --> 00:35:42,309 to look into whole new areas of research here in the Galapagos. 332 00:35:47,439 --> 00:35:52,819 Just 14 days after we filmed Lonesome, he died in his sleep. 333 00:35:55,822 --> 00:35:57,324 But he's not forgotten. 334 00:36:01,453 --> 00:36:05,541 Lonesome George's story, like Darwin's fleeting but famous visit 335 00:36:05,582 --> 00:36:09,962 200 years ago, has attracted many visitors to the islands. 336 00:36:22,224 --> 00:36:24,810 Today, the archipelago is the basis 337 00:36:24,852 --> 00:36:27,980 of a multi-million dollar tourist industry. 338 00:36:28,105 --> 00:36:32,109 30,000 people live here, in three small towns, 339 00:36:32,234 --> 00:36:36,446 and fleets of small boats take visitors on carefully-planned trips 340 00:36:36,488 --> 00:36:38,365 to see the islands' main sights. 341 00:36:41,243 --> 00:36:44,746 It took animals and plants millions of years to find 342 00:36:44,788 --> 00:36:46,790 and collonise the Galapogos 343 00:37:45,557 --> 00:37:49,561 Scientists are now trying to analyse the impact of human beings 344 00:37:49,686 --> 00:37:52,314 on the course of evolution in the islands. 345 00:37:56,860 --> 00:37:58,737 And, surprisingly perhaps, 346 00:37:58,779 --> 00:38:03,408 the finches that Darwin made famous are still providing new insights. 347 00:38:11,333 --> 00:38:15,587 Biologist Andrew Hendry is looking at how the finches' evolution 348 00:38:15,712 --> 00:38:18,590 may have been affected by human settlements. 349 00:38:20,217 --> 00:38:22,344 When humans come into a new location, 350 00:38:22,469 --> 00:38:25,681 essentially what they do is change the environment, 351 00:38:25,722 --> 00:38:28,851 and that's changing selection that's acting on the populations. 352 00:38:32,354 --> 00:38:38,360 Hendry is studying one particular species - the medium ground finch. 353 00:38:38,485 --> 00:38:40,320 OK, yeah. 354 00:38:40,362 --> 00:38:44,491 Remarkably, he's found that this finch, in its natural setting, 355 00:38:44,616 --> 00:38:47,870 is on the verge of dividing into two separate species. 356 00:38:49,872 --> 00:38:52,624 The two are defined by the size of their beaks. 357 00:38:53,750 --> 00:38:56,003 One is small, the other, large. 358 00:38:57,379 --> 00:38:59,631 The difference between them has been caused 359 00:38:59,715 --> 00:39:01,633 by the types of food they eat. 360 00:39:02,759 --> 00:39:06,513 So, if you feed on some small seed, you tend to have a small beak, 361 00:39:06,638 --> 00:39:10,100 and if you feed on large seed, you tend to have a really big beak 362 00:39:10,142 --> 00:39:11,518 and you tend to have a hard bite. 363 00:39:13,770 --> 00:39:17,858 Remarkably, Hendry has found that among medium ground finches 364 00:39:17,900 --> 00:39:22,529 that live near human beings, the distinct big and small beak forms 365 00:39:22,654 --> 00:39:24,031 are getting fewer. 366 00:39:33,540 --> 00:39:38,295 It's as if the two variants are here merging back into one. 367 00:39:43,175 --> 00:39:47,679 The presence of human beings has stopped this finch from evolving. 368 00:39:51,183 --> 00:39:55,562 We found that they feed a lot on human food, ranging from rice 369 00:39:55,687 --> 00:40:01,318 to fruit to grains to potato chips, and feeding on those types 370 00:40:01,443 --> 00:40:05,030 of different foods, it doesn't really seem to matter what your beak 371 00:40:05,072 --> 00:40:06,281 size is any more. 372 00:40:06,323 --> 00:40:09,952 So it seems like humans have caused a speciation reversal - 373 00:40:10,077 --> 00:40:13,330 they're fusing back together again as a result of human influences. 374 00:40:31,223 --> 00:40:35,936 So, human beings can be just as much a part of nature as the forces 375 00:40:35,978 --> 00:40:39,982 that first shaped these islands and the organisms that live on them. 376 00:40:42,109 --> 00:40:47,364 But human beings can not only destroy...they can conserve. 377 00:40:49,408 --> 00:40:54,538 In the 1970s, the tortoise population reached an all-time low. 378 00:40:54,621 --> 00:40:56,832 there were only a few thousand of them left 379 00:40:59,459 --> 00:41:04,089 Now, there's a major breeding programme for them. 380 00:41:10,846 --> 00:41:14,099 The tortoise population today is increasing. 381 00:41:16,101 --> 00:41:19,855 Once-threatened species have been brought back from the brink. 382 00:41:28,488 --> 00:41:33,076 And scientists are discovering just how important and influential 383 00:41:33,118 --> 00:41:35,621 this reintroduction programme might be. 384 00:41:37,748 --> 00:41:41,502 On Alcedo Volcano, home for the largest population 385 00:41:41,627 --> 00:41:45,255 of free-roaming giant tortoises, a study has shown 386 00:41:45,506 --> 00:41:49,760 that they're crucial to the health of all the surrounding wildlife. 387 00:42:07,528 --> 00:42:13,492 Biologist Steve Blake uses satellite tags to track their movements. 388 00:42:13,534 --> 00:42:15,536 (RADIO CRACKLES) 389 00:42:17,162 --> 00:42:20,541 They reveal, to most people's great surprise, 390 00:42:20,666 --> 00:42:25,420 that the tortoises migrate over huge distances, 391 00:42:25,546 --> 00:42:28,924 from the depths of the crater, right up to the rim. 392 00:42:28,131 --> 00:42:29,508 It's just phenomenal. 393 00:42:29,633 --> 00:42:35,222 Why would a 600lb reptile migrate from sea level 394 00:42:35,264 --> 00:42:38,141 to up to 1,000 metres on some islands? 395 00:42:40,769 --> 00:42:44,022 From the air, the routes the tortoises take are clearly visible. 396 00:42:51,530 --> 00:42:55,033 And they use the same highways, year after year. 397 00:43:01,915 --> 00:43:06,628 One of the fundamental drivers of the migration seems to be food. 398 00:43:06,670 --> 00:43:09,548 Tortoises tend to come to the highlands 399 00:43:09,631 --> 00:43:11,550 at the coolest time of year. 400 00:43:11,675 --> 00:43:14,803 Up in the highlands, they can feed on a year-round, 401 00:43:14,928 --> 00:43:16,430 low-quality food source. 402 00:43:16,555 --> 00:43:20,142 But then when the rains kick in, the lowlands tend to green up, 403 00:43:20,184 --> 00:43:23,437 and the tortoises go down there, probably to fatten up. 404 00:43:26,315 --> 00:43:29,818 But Blake's studies reveal much more about the tortoises 405 00:43:29,902 --> 00:43:31,320 than just where they go. 406 00:43:32,446 --> 00:43:36,158 They demonstrate the extraordinary effect that tortoises have 407 00:43:36,200 --> 00:43:38,452 on their surrounding environment. 408 00:43:43,832 --> 00:43:49,213 They create special conditions that suit all kinds of other animals. 409 00:43:50,923 --> 00:43:53,342 They shape and prune the landscape. 410 00:43:54,468 --> 00:43:58,597 They disperse seeds, trample down the undergrowth, 411 00:43:58,722 --> 00:44:01,225 and trim the lowest branches of the bushes. 412 00:44:02,726 --> 00:44:07,105 And all that allows seeds to germinate. 413 00:44:07,231 --> 00:44:10,984 It disturbs insects, so that they can be gathered by hungry predators. 414 00:44:13,737 --> 00:44:18,492 Their dung is also crucial to the survival of many other creatures. 415 00:44:20,702 --> 00:44:22,829 Beetles lay their eggs in it, 416 00:44:22,871 --> 00:44:26,750 and their larvae grow fat on the nutriment that it still contains. 417 00:45:00,117 --> 00:45:02,494 The implications are very important - 418 00:45:02,619 --> 00:45:05,497 they suggest that the reintroduction of tortoises 419 00:45:05,622 --> 00:45:09,126 to islands where their numbers have been seriously reduced 420 00:45:09,251 --> 00:45:12,629 could restore the richness of the whole environment. 421 00:45:14,464 --> 00:45:17,593 We have the chance to bring back the full glory 422 00:45:17,676 --> 00:45:20,220 of these fragile ecosystems. 423 00:45:32,524 --> 00:45:36,486 Today, unlike many other tropical islands elsewhere, 424 00:45:36,528 --> 00:45:42,159 95% of Galapagos's biodiversity still survives. 425 00:45:44,119 --> 00:45:45,245 Just. 426 00:45:51,793 --> 00:45:56,423 And amazingly, new species are still being discovered. 427 00:46:02,346 --> 00:46:06,850 One was found just 35 miles north of Alcedo, 428 00:46:06,975 --> 00:46:10,854 on the giant, little-visited volcano, Wolf. 429 00:46:20,614 --> 00:46:23,367 To get to Wolf, you really need a helicopter. 430 00:46:23,492 --> 00:46:25,869 It's one of the most hostile and least-explored parts 431 00:46:25,994 --> 00:46:27,496 of the whole archipelago. 432 00:46:30,123 --> 00:46:33,377 There had been rumours of something strange 433 00:46:33,502 --> 00:46:36,380 living up on these remote, high slopes. 434 00:46:42,386 --> 00:46:45,013 Something that lived in burrows, 435 00:46:45,138 --> 00:46:47,766 and only emerged every now and then to feed. 436 00:46:59,152 --> 00:47:02,155 A scientific team went up to investigate. 437 00:47:22,676 --> 00:47:25,679 What they discovered astonished everybody. 438 00:47:29,057 --> 00:47:32,436 A completely new and unknown species of reptile. 439 00:47:36,523 --> 00:47:38,442 A pink iguana. 440 00:47:45,073 --> 00:47:47,951 Until now, it was thought that the Galapagos possessed 441 00:47:48,076 --> 00:47:49,953 only three species of iguana. 442 00:47:52,956 --> 00:47:56,084 The black marine iguana, that lives on the seashore. 443 00:47:57,461 --> 00:48:00,589 And two species of yellow iguana that live inland, 444 00:48:00,714 --> 00:48:03,342 feeding on cacti and other vegetation. 445 00:48:07,221 --> 00:48:10,724 This land iguana is certainly the most closely related 446 00:48:10,849 --> 00:48:12,726 to the newly discovered one. 447 00:48:15,604 --> 00:48:19,107 Genetic studies of the 100 or so individuals that make up this 448 00:48:19,233 --> 00:48:23,737 tiny population have shown that it diverged from its land iguana 449 00:48:23,862 --> 00:48:26,615 cousins more than 5 million years ago. 450 00:48:28,242 --> 00:48:32,621 So, amazingly, it has been here just as long as the other two, 451 00:48:32,746 --> 00:48:36,124 but has remained unknown to science until now. 452 00:48:52,724 --> 00:48:55,602 And of course, there is another great mystery 453 00:48:55,686 --> 00:48:57,479 that no-one has yet explained... 454 00:49:01,567 --> 00:49:03,861 Nobody knows why it's pink. 455 00:49:05,112 --> 00:49:09,992 Could it be that to be pink up here brings something good? 456 00:49:10,117 --> 00:49:11,493 We don't know. 457 00:49:12,744 --> 00:49:17,624 Maybe this was once spread widely over the island, 458 00:49:17,749 --> 00:49:21,378 and this is just the relic population that's left. 459 00:49:21,461 --> 00:49:23,255 Again, we don't know. 460 00:49:24,840 --> 00:49:26,008 Goodbye. 461 00:49:27,509 --> 00:49:30,888 But there's one thing that is quite certain, 462 00:49:31,013 --> 00:49:35,017 and that is that there's a lot we have yet to learn about the 463 00:49:35,142 --> 00:49:39,730 enchanted islands, and about the animals that have evolved here. 464 00:49:39,771 --> 00:49:45,152 And of one thing, I have no doubt - Charles Darwin would be delighted. 465 00:49:51,783 --> 00:49:54,244 In just a few million years, 466 00:49:54,286 --> 00:49:57,915 this empty expanse of ocean was transformed. 467 00:49:59,416 --> 00:50:04,046 A series of volcanoes broke the surface and built the islands. 468 00:50:13,055 --> 00:50:17,309 Against heavy odds, a few species managed to reach them. 469 00:50:25,442 --> 00:50:27,444 They adapted to what they found... 470 00:50:34,576 --> 00:50:38,830 ..and so evolved into a multitude of new species. 471 00:50:57,099 --> 00:51:02,104 Each new discovery we make gives Darwin's theory a greater relevance. 472 00:51:09,361 --> 00:51:12,739 But beyond the strange plants and bizarre animals, 473 00:51:12,823 --> 00:51:15,117 there is a greater significance. 474 00:51:17,494 --> 00:51:19,621 What we've learned here has given us 475 00:51:19,746 --> 00:51:22,124 a greater understanding of our planet. 476 00:51:23,625 --> 00:51:27,963 This small group of islands has revealed in microcosm 477 00:51:28,005 --> 00:51:32,384 the processes that have shaped all life on Earth. 478 00:51:35,762 --> 00:51:45,772 `�.��.����`��._.� ] ( Subs by Team Cliff ) [ `�.��.����`��._.�` 41373

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