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Downloaded from YTS.BZ
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Camera B.
Damn, you're good at this!
Now you have the chance
to become the first person in the world to go up there, in winter.
To go to the top of K2.
When you're going on a trip like this, do you think much about death?
When I go on a trip like this,
then naturally death is very close.
And…
you just hope to be able to stand,
how would you say it… upright.
And even just proud during that moment.
Hello?
I'm not dead yet!
But should I check your pulse?
One of the first mountains I climbed
was Mont Blanc, in 2011.
I remember I stood at the top.
I was just waiting for some feeling to come.
But I felt nothing.
It was only when I was descending and I posted five pictures on Facebook,
that's when it came.
So, this is where we sleep tonight apparently.
You have a lot of time to think, hiking all day,
enjoying the beauty.
It's indescribable.
Okay, I'll do a lap if the GoPro works.
Okay.
We are the only ones up here,
the only seven people camping on K2.
Here are our supply stations.
Our stock station.
Lots of supplies and stuff like that, we're very well stocked.
We can be stuck here for three whole months
without needing anyone.
This is actually our second day.
The first day, crazy weather came and the mess tent blew away.
Mohsin, our chef
and one other person,
they were in the kitchen
when the kitchen just simply blew away.
Look, look, look! Avalanche!
Do you think it'll reach?
Can you give me a towel?
In our culture, kids are afraid of their father,
afraid of their scolding.
But my father was like a friend.
He began to be seen as a national hero,
but even after his world class achievements,
he remained humble and simple.
My father and John Snorri were of the same age and thought alike.
They were like friends.
We've arrived, we'll stay for the night,
then go down to base camp.
It was a rough trek, getting up here.
The trio!
The main guy.
If the next two days are good, we plan to go up to camp two,
spend the night in camp two and see if we can do some of the lines
on the way up to camp three.
And spend the night back in base camp.
Nimsdai, here?
We had no idea that Nims was about to arrive
with a Nepali Sherpa team.
Sherpas are a strong team. Nims brought a perfect team.
Nims' Sherpas.
There's Nimsdai!
This guy? Here?
How many are there with you?
One, John, and he is absolutely fine.
He is a very nice person.
We are planning to go to camp two tomorrow.
- Seriously? - It's no problem at all.
You need a little bit of rest, no?
Nimsdai's team rests when we die.
One should be a bit careful in the winter…
Practically no one here.
I've been waiting for the sunrise,
counting the minutes until the sun comes.
Seven and a half hours.
I didn't expect it to be that much.
I get around a lot,
and I try to travel around the world as much as possible.
For me, it's important to experience adventures
so that life isn't boring.
Just lying around at a hotel or on the beach
would be far too dull for me.
I noticed they were planning to attempt K2,
and we arranged everything from there.
Let's see how it goes.
We have the tent here on the edge as usual.
Here are our 700-meter lines that we carried up here.
Nims and co, they are going to come up soon.
Then they have to camp somewhere.
Finding space for tents will be very difficult.
Then there comes a group of 50 people from Seven Summit.
It should be possible to put one tent there,
and I know you can put one there, so two people can sleep there.
This will be something.
Hi.
Hi, sweetie. What's up?
All good, and you?
Everything's okay.
Yeah?
What's up?
There are so many people up in the camps.
Yes.
There are so many people here.
I know all of this is really tough
but you have to try to be strong somehow.
Just be smart in this competition.
Yes, I know. I have to be smart.
Okay, sweetie. I love you.
I love you too, sweetie.
Okay, good night.
- Speak tomorrow. - Yes.
Bye.
How's it going?
Hot…
hard…
and I feel alive!
It was a competition, like a football match.
Until now, there has been no Nepalese record
in winter mountain climbing.
So if, in the winter K2 trip, the Nepalese got there first,
we could have the chance to raise our flag.
So that was very important for us Nepalese.
That night it was New Year's Eve for the Westerners.
But the Nepalese team had started speaking and planning privately.
If it's a foreigner, I'd rather fucking die
but I won't let them get ahead. I'm being straight with you.
All I want is a record for Nepal. More than anything.
Rest assured it will be Nepal on top.
Until we fix the ropes ahead, the foreigners can't go.
I hope none of them get there first. I hope it's only Nepalese.
So, brother, we are on the same page.
Here in the mountains, our brothers have worked so hard,
but when people talk about a winter ascent you hear a fucking white person's name.
My first job was to collect yak dung to make briquettes for fuel.
So the difference between my story and theirs
is that of hardship.
I had a different life.
So it was never our plan to summit together.
So, is it just you with the Nepalis and Pakistanis?
Yes.
No other foreigner?
No one else, no.
We are working together.
That is a huge step forward
and in the next window, we can try to reach the summit.
Yes.
Honestly, this project is for our country.
There are also foreigners here, so I won't share everything.
But let me be clear.
If there are any foreigners behind us, I will pull up the ropes.
You can blame it on me.
Remember that we're all Nepalese mountaineers.
On this occasion, it'll be for our country, okay?
So, that is it.
John Snorri, five star hotel!
My father said,
"I have known them for years.
We have done many missions and summits together.
If they have a plan, they will definitely share it with us."
But then we realized that they planned the summit secretly.
No wind, huh?
I could see the disappointment on their faces.
They were quite shocked.
There were many Westerners who were happy for us
when we returned from summiting.
But there were some who were jealous of us.
It made me upset.
This was about 10 times harder than any mountain I've climbed.
I got frostbite on my cheeks, so I was also really scared.
Very few people achieve a world record in life.
It's something I'm very proud of.
I told my father that the first winter summit is over.
There are weather changes in February.
February is always risky because of bad weather conditions and very high winds.
So doing the summit during this period will be too risky.
We should give up because someone has already done the summit now.
Even the kitchen staff realized we shouldn't push on.
My family, especially my mother, were very worried
and said it is quite late, so come back home.
But that's when we heard that a man named Elia is arriving to make a film.
He will be making a film about us climbing K2.
Our weather man says it's too short.
Here we are at camp one.
JP, tell me something.
We are motivated…
for summit.
I don't know,
we will see.
No pressure, no pressure.
Pressure.
Today I understand
why for so many years
no people climbed, in winter, K2.
Amazingly difficult. Amazingly difficult.
I arrived sometime during the night.
I don't know if it was around midnight or 2am. I have no idea.
I felt strong and in good shape, so why should I have turned around?
I want to be on the record,
please record me saying this.
I am very worried about people's health and safety.
There are many people up here with no tent,
we're at 7,600 on K2 in the middle of the night in winter.
I'm very, very worried about many people's health and safety,
and that is because of breakdown in the organization.
No tents up here is unacceptable.
Hi Colin, this is Arnold.
I understand your situation completely.
We're trying to turn around people
but at the moment people are refusing and that's causing a huge problem.
Arnold, we're in a legitimately bad situation right now.
Why are their sherpas not carrying tents?
No one has been up here since Nims, is that right, over?
That's right, over.
No shit that's right, over.
Sherpas are also just people, you know,
you cannot blame them for not going up in the wind.
Oh, I don't blame them at all.
But I do blame you guys for trying to pretend like tents were here
from the 15th of January
when we've had 150-mile-per-hour winds up here.
Come on man, you're better than that.
Yes. That's a big, big mistake.
There's no tents, no food, and…
I think that…
some people…
will die this night.
Obviously I can't understand any of these guys
so what are they really fucking saying to each other?
We're trying to make Temba, who is the leader,
tell everybody they have to go down.
Please do that, take some people out of Colin's tent.
We'll need to make adjustments somehow.
It's not possible at all.
Half of us are already staying outside.
The Sherpas are now arguing
with a couple of people that they have to go down.
Let's hope the Sherpas convince them.
I couldn't imagine descending.
It would have been completely impossible, at least for me.
That's when I really felt my body was completely exhausted.
My feet were completely frozen, my fingers were cold,
and I knew something wasn't right.
There was chaos and a strange situation in camp three.
There were six people in our tent.
So, we couldn't relax, we couldn't even boil the water.
Six people and no one's boiling any water - did he say that?
The Sherpas said the feet needed to be amputated.
In the end, I had three operations,
it took a very long time and was incredibly painful.
All my toes are gone.
It was really bad.
You can't really describe it.
If you go outside, be sure to get ready properly.
Base camp. Over.
Sajid, Sajid.
I was exhausted and I tried to fix the oxygen,
but there was a malfunction in the regulator.
But my father told me, I couldn't continue climbing.
So, they continued climbing up and my last memory
is seeing them climb up at the Bottleneck.
I decided to come back. They are going up,
going up like this.
Not coming. I wait, wait, wait, wait.
All night long.
I couldn't tell my mother.
I just told her that the search mission is going on.
What do you remember about John?
John, he was too motivated, yeah.
He wants summit, yeah.
And he said that we can't stop, we do this, yeah.
And what about your dad?
He was too motivated.
Can you say "my father"?
My father was too motivated.
Before, he said, "It's my dream to climb K2 in winter".
Do you have any hope right now, with the search and rescue?
No. I know mountains, I'm also a climber.
I know the situation up there.
Now three days, in 8,000, in winter,
I think there is no hope. I know this clearly, yeah.
Because I know the reality in the mountains.
No. It's finished, yeah.
Closed, yeah.
A person is just sitting at home with his wife
and then suddenly he goes up into the air here,
just to get a little fame.
Thinking that if I do this, then good things will happen for me.
They should have been careful.
Yes.
Yeah, they are here, there is the fixed rope.
I wanted to go to K2 and find out what had happened.
As a son, it was my obligation to find and bury him.
Is it possible to get the body out and bring it down?
The face isn't clear.
Don't upload this to social media, please.
We found the bodies, and we realized
that they got stuck in the storm.
We didn't find any evidence that they summit.
But summit or not summit?
It's not matter for me.
They are no more.
Dying there is not that easy, it's one of the hardest deaths.
It's hard to believe. It's one of the hardest.
If someone die in an accident, fell down…
it's over in a few seconds.
But stuck in the storm and someone freezing there,
it's not that easy.
I won't say that the Nepalis betrayed us.
But still, if they had told us, we could all have done it together.
Ali was a really good friend of mine.
What some said was
that we cut the rope at the top.
And took the rope away, once we cut it.
Those were the rumors that were spreading.
It made me sad.
Because I am a Sherpa, of Buddhist religion.
But sometimes, Nimsdai is the kind of person
who says things in the moment without thinking much.
Last winter we gave 700-meter rope, this rope, to the Sherpas
to fix, especially Bottleneck and for summit push.
But now I went till summit and there's many, many ropes
are fixed and anchored.
So there is no rope cut from Sherpas. This is fake news.
We have a legacy
and the Sadparas are famous for mountaineering.
All things considered, I am wondering about mountaineering.
I am thinking about whether I should continue this profession or not.
But Father loved the mountains his entire life
and he died with them.
He is in the mountains now and will forever stay there.
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