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SOUTHERN PACIFIC
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At this age and age,
You need to go a little while.
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00:01:04,997 --> 00:01:07,876
or at least wish
take a few more steps
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00:01:08,002 --> 00:01:10,349
that any other person
is willing to give
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00:01:11,393 --> 00:01:15,565
Subpack and sync
by DanDee
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00:02:20,685 --> 00:02:22,103
Walsh wins Xcel Pro
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Surfer
AS 100 BEST WAVES
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THE END OF THE MACHINE
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That's it, boys.
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Long flight.
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Somewhat relaxing.
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Take that tip.
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00:03:29,029 --> 00:03:32,784
We kind of get caught up in the weather
and we missed the best day of March.
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00:03:34,411 --> 00:03:36,956
Part of what we do
like surfers,
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You screw up.
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Not every trip we make
we have perfect surfing,
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00:03:44,258 --> 00:03:46,010
and it always works out.
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00:03:46,261 --> 00:03:47,712
It just does not work that way.
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00:03:50,517 --> 00:03:52,394
Now we are at the end of summer,
20
00:03:52,478 --> 00:03:56,400
and now my focus is shifting
for the northern hemisphere
21
00:03:56,525 --> 00:03:58,319
and the preparation for Hawaii.
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00:03:59,612 --> 00:04:00,613
When they foresee a strong El Ni o,
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Brother
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HOOKIPA BEACH
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... everyone gets excited.
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00:04:03,868 --> 00:04:06,914
O El Ni o, basically like
an unusual time pattern.
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00:04:06,998 --> 00:04:08,373
The Pacific Ocean is
hotter than normal
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SURFER
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... and allows us to pick up
many big waves.
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00:04:12,046 --> 00:04:13,924
I really started getting serious.
31
00:04:14,007 --> 00:04:16,177
when Ian sat with me
and Shaun one day
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00:04:16,260 --> 00:04:17,887
and said, "Be prepared, this may be
the craziest winter of their lives. "
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00:04:17,888 --> 00:04:19,244
Brother
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The last El Ni o was in 1998.
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00:04:23,729 --> 00:04:25,273
It was an incredible winter.
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JANUARY 1998
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00:04:26,358 --> 00:04:28,444
There were many sessions
of giant waves in Jaws.
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00:04:29,111 --> 00:04:31,782
Extreme surfing, extreme conditions,
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00:04:31,865 --> 00:04:32,824
simply day after day,
of perfection.
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00:04:32,825 --> 00:04:34,326
PROJECTOR OF PLANTS AND TRAINER
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00:04:34,327 --> 00:04:36,914
Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico,
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00:04:36,997 --> 00:04:38,916
who stood the test of time.
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00:04:41,128 --> 00:04:44,382
A really strong El Ni o
happens so rarely,
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00:04:44,549 --> 00:04:48,805
what a great opportunity
to see what the limit is,
45
00:04:49,139 --> 00:04:51,142
Until where the surf goes.
46
00:04:53,812 --> 00:04:55,230
I think you will see
the biggest waves being surfed ...
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00:04:55,231 --> 00:04:56,189
SURFER
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00:04:56,190 --> 00:04:57,546
... in the history of our sport.
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00:05:00,279 --> 00:05:03,450
Jaws basically has
the largest wave in the world.
50
00:05:04,994 --> 00:05:06,579
And Ian lives straight away.
51
00:05:07,539 --> 00:05:10,001
So he's in a
very unusual position.
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00:05:13,756 --> 00:05:14,965
SURFER
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00:05:14,966 --> 00:05:17,777
If Jaws is rolling, the world of
Surfing descends on your shoulders.
54
00:05:20,223 --> 00:05:23,019
Are you ready to
good waves of one to two meters,
55
00:05:23,102 --> 00:05:24,729
but it's only about 18 meters.
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00:05:26,315 --> 00:05:28,610
And something you can surf,
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00:05:28,693 --> 00:05:30,195
You know, you can paddle in there.
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00:05:39,166 --> 00:05:41,169
The way that Ian and these guys
are surfing
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they are surfing like they are
waves of two meters.
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00:05:50,306 --> 00:05:52,016
You have to laugh.
It's difficult to understand, you know.
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00:05:52,017 --> 00:05:53,436
SURFER
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There is almost no other place
which offered this intensity.
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00:06:05,077 --> 00:06:08,832
A wave can drag you
tens of meters under the water.
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00:06:14,131 --> 00:06:15,632
With a Violence
that you can not
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00:06:15,633 --> 00:06:17,427
control their arms,
you hit yourself,
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00:06:17,635 --> 00:06:19,722
He really thinks he's going to die.
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00:06:26,648 --> 00:06:29,902
Fight and try to force
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00:06:30,695 --> 00:06:34,283
can burn more oxygen
than you can.
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00:06:43,421 --> 00:06:45,215
a calculated risk that you assume,
70
00:06:45,298 --> 00:06:47,301
and you manage and
minimizes risks
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00:06:47,510 --> 00:06:49,304
with your physical conditioning
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00:06:49,888 --> 00:06:51,515
and mentally prepared.
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00:06:57,607 --> 00:06:58,963
325, Ian.
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00:06:59,193 --> 00:07:01,195
A good ride, good work ...
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00:07:01,404 --> 00:07:02,760
and stop!
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00:07:06,035 --> 00:07:07,391
Good test.
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00:07:10,917 --> 00:07:13,003
Ian is one of our
more dedicated athletes.
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00:07:13,087 --> 00:07:15,423
In fact, throughout the curriculum,
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00:07:15,507 --> 00:07:17,508
he probably participated
more training ...
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00:07:17,509 --> 00:07:18,677
HIGH PERFORMANCE COACH
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00:07:18,678 --> 00:07:20,347
... that any other
if I remember.
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00:07:22,391 --> 00:07:25,020
You go from things that are
very practical, which we call
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00:07:25,228 --> 00:07:26,270
training.
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00:07:26,271 --> 00:07:28,274
All these things,
you can see
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00:07:28,483 --> 00:07:30,277
directly the relationship
with better surfing.
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00:07:30,778 --> 00:07:34,366
The interesting thing is that Ian
also pioneered the boundaries.
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00:07:34,449 --> 00:07:37,287
He participated in
training where we challenge you,
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00:07:37,495 --> 00:07:38,914
and in this environment,
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00:07:38,997 --> 00:07:41,375
I think we see evolution
in training for big waves,
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00:07:41,376 --> 00:07:43,837
in this idea of โโtriumph under pressure.
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00:07:43,921 --> 00:07:46,633
Fifteen seconds. Do you want to go?
to the next stage. Let's go!
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00:07:50,346 --> 00:07:53,350
- You got it! Let's go!
-Good work, my friend.
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00:07:53,434 --> 00:07:55,395
He rehearses his techniques
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00:07:55,478 --> 00:07:58,107
in the sense of making the right decision
on the right time,
95
00:07:58,190 --> 00:07:59,868
when the parameters are very high.
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00:08:03,114 --> 00:08:05,534
If they get caught
by a wave of 20 meters,
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00:08:05,617 --> 00:08:07,494
need to have
all the skills and techniques
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00:08:07,495 --> 00:08:08,537
FREE DIVING COACH
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00:08:08,538 --> 00:08:11,959
to hold the breath in a
emergency that can last a minute,
100
00:08:14,796 --> 00:08:16,591
and you need to do this
several times,
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00:08:16,674 --> 00:08:19,720
with intervals of only 15 seconds.
102
00:08:21,556 --> 00:08:23,141
Your violent shark.
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00:08:24,935 --> 00:08:27,230
The effort by which
we make them pass the equivalent
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00:08:27,314 --> 00:08:30,693
of any highly
trained, with whom we already work.
105
00:08:31,736 --> 00:08:34,115
You just know that I'm
giving me the maximum
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00:08:34,198 --> 00:08:37,035
to stay the most
comfortable possible
107
00:08:37,119 --> 00:08:40,665
in the less comfortable environment
which I can imagine.
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00:08:41,750 --> 00:08:44,212
He is doing
dives of 50 meters,
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00:08:44,421 --> 00:08:46,757
apneia of almost five minutes.
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00:08:48,718 --> 00:08:51,764
Need to be prepared
to the maximum level,
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00:08:51,889 --> 00:08:53,516
otherwise,
will find,
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00:08:53,725 --> 00:08:56,521
that wave that
can not support.
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00:08:59,483 --> 00:09:00,567
DECEMBER 2012
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CORTES BANK
180 KM WEST OF SAN DIEGO
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00:09:02,237 --> 00:09:03,780
From experience,
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00:09:04,448 --> 00:09:06,576
DK saved my life, no doubt.
117
00:09:07,995 --> 00:09:10,248
I drowned in Cortes Bank.
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00:09:16,590 --> 00:09:17,946
The ambulance is on its way.
119
00:09:24,893 --> 00:09:26,249
What happened?
120
00:09:27,146 --> 00:09:29,691
You were pulled down.
and simply stayed ...
121
00:09:30,859 --> 00:09:33,852
The board hit you in the head,
on the belly or somewhere else?
122
00:09:34,072 --> 00:09:36,409
If it was not for DK be l ...
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00:09:37,201 --> 00:09:38,410
PLYWOOD PROJECTOR
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00:09:38,411 --> 00:09:40,769
... you know, it's the big reason
Greg's still alive.
125
00:09:43,669 --> 00:09:45,025
If it were not for him,
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00:09:45,046 --> 00:09:46,678
heroically,
abandoning jet ski to
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00:09:46,798 --> 00:09:48,592
hundreds of kilometers,
in the middle of the sea,
128
00:09:48,676 --> 00:09:50,344
to take my body without life,
129
00:09:50,428 --> 00:09:54,559
and then hold me and cross
two more or three big waves ...
130
00:09:55,184 --> 00:09:58,648
You will not find any other
rescue team like this in the world.
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00:10:00,191 --> 00:10:01,985
Saving someone's life,
especially
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00:10:02,194 --> 00:10:03,988
of someone like him, so close,
133
00:10:04,072 --> 00:10:07,535
really motivated me
to do what we do today.
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00:10:09,746 --> 00:10:11,790
I and my brothers,
we are all a little younger
135
00:10:11,791 --> 00:10:14,503
but at home we moved,
taking care of each other.
136
00:10:14,920 --> 00:10:17,340
And that's because
of Ian and his brothers.
137
00:10:18,592 --> 00:10:20,886
We used to call them
of "the squirrels".
138
00:10:21,220 --> 00:10:24,057
Ian was the knight
and they, their little helpers ...
139
00:10:24,224 --> 00:10:25,266
DAD
140
00:10:25,267 --> 00:10:26,624
... and it was very good.
141
00:10:27,980 --> 00:10:30,817
If Shaun and DK are there,
the twins, he's fine.
142
00:10:30,900 --> 00:10:33,076
Like, they'll get him,
no matter what happened
143
00:10:33,320 --> 00:10:34,237
Mother
144
00:10:34,238 --> 00:10:35,531
Make things easier.
145
00:10:35,532 --> 00:10:37,826
It's never easy, but it makes it easier.
146
00:10:42,917 --> 00:10:46,505
What a crazy combination,
the four brothers.
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00:10:46,755 --> 00:10:48,132
They are a team.
148
00:10:49,092 --> 00:10:51,762
He is the oldest brother,
we all follow in his footsteps.
149
00:10:51,846 --> 00:10:53,202
If he were a degenerate,
150
00:10:53,223 --> 00:10:54,265
Brother
151
00:10:54,266 --> 00:10:56,226
we would probably have followed
by this way,
152
00:10:56,227 --> 00:10:59,273
but he was a student
exemplary in the collegiate.
153
00:11:02,026 --> 00:11:05,489
My love and passion for big waves.
154
00:11:05,865 --> 00:11:08,660
I would not be what, without my brothers.
155
00:11:09,203 --> 00:11:10,559
It just would not work.
156
00:11:15,211 --> 00:11:17,631
It seemed that even before
of winter to begin,
157
00:11:17,715 --> 00:11:19,425
he was working hard.
158
00:11:22,930 --> 00:11:25,106
He kind of knew
that there was an anticipation there,
159
00:11:25,183 --> 00:11:27,228
since El Ni o was drawing
160
00:11:27,311 --> 00:11:28,944
and the climate began to settle.
161
00:11:29,063 --> 00:11:32,860
He is one of the few elite athletes
in our sport.
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00:11:33,820 --> 00:11:36,908
And the twins, they kind of
look different.
163
00:11:37,158 --> 00:11:40,830
They are like their own
natural training, I would say so.
164
00:11:42,332 --> 00:11:44,009
really connect with yourself
165
00:11:44,084 --> 00:11:47,130
and remain physically active,
no matter what you do.
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00:11:51,720 --> 00:11:55,099
Beyond all science
and the community supporting
167
00:11:55,183 --> 00:11:57,314
and trying to help him
to improve in large waves,
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00:11:57,603 --> 00:12:01,525
I think it's just important
he surfed, for the sake of surfing.
169
00:12:03,694 --> 00:12:07,116
There is no competition, the waves
They're as big as they can be ...
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00:12:08,159 --> 00:12:10,370
connect with your friends and enjoy,
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00:12:10,495 --> 00:12:13,333
and that is an important part
of this program.
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00:12:18,173 --> 00:12:19,850
My favorite type
surfer
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00:12:20,009 --> 00:12:21,803
who gets to have fun with everything.
174
00:12:21,970 --> 00:12:24,097
If the wave of one meter or 25,
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00:12:24,181 --> 00:12:26,517
he will still be able
to go there and have fun.
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00:12:26,810 --> 00:12:29,984
Guys like Ian are the guys in
which really inspires me, for this.
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00:17:36,610 --> 00:17:39,948
Basically, in each high seas,
you have a decision to make,
178
00:17:40,032 --> 00:17:43,203
because there will be a competition
that you need to worry about
179
00:17:43,286 --> 00:17:47,709
or if you are going to surf the waves that
really want, that the big bid.
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00:17:49,712 --> 00:17:51,068
When are you leaving?
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00:17:51,130 --> 00:17:54,468
I go out tomorrow night,
probably, to Oahu,
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00:17:54,552 --> 00:17:55,908
for the competition.
183
00:17:56,387 --> 00:18:00,017
I would like to go to Jaws,
s to deferrujar.
184
00:18:01,019 --> 00:18:02,855
How do you account for everything here?
185
00:18:02,938 --> 00:18:03,938
So much.
186
00:18:03,940 --> 00:18:06,443
What you mean?
You have two children.
187
00:18:06,735 --> 00:18:09,637
Yes, children will be easy after
that deal with all these things.
188
00:18:10,741 --> 00:18:13,327
Competitions in the world circuit
for about 11 years.
189
00:18:13,661 --> 00:18:16,332
When I was stopping,
Ian was just beginning,
190
00:18:16,457 --> 00:18:18,251
trying to qualify
to the circuit.
191
00:18:18,543 --> 00:18:20,587
And I said,
"Dude, there's no one your age
192
00:18:20,671 --> 00:18:22,674
behind the
bid of the great wave ".
193
00:18:22,924 --> 00:18:24,301
So I went to Ian and said,
194
00:18:24,384 --> 00:18:26,928
"Let's become partners
who surf big waves together. "
195
00:18:26,929 --> 00:18:28,285
NOVEMBER 2007
196
00:18:28,390 --> 00:18:29,892
I think he made the right choice
197
00:18:29,975 --> 00:18:33,397
on surfing the big waves enough
and yet be competitive
198
00:18:33,480 --> 00:18:34,836
events and everything.
199
00:18:36,943 --> 00:18:38,299
Any wave?
200
00:18:39,113 --> 00:18:40,490
It's blowing a lot.
201
00:18:40,949 --> 00:18:43,536
Dude, it's very uneven.
202
00:18:43,619 --> 00:18:45,413
See how big the second wave.
203
00:18:45,497 --> 00:18:49,335
It would be difficult to maintain the position,
with all this turbulence.
204
00:18:49,836 --> 00:18:51,964
The sea was kind of weak and strange,
205
00:18:52,172 --> 00:18:53,668
the wind was totally wrong.
206
00:18:54,050 --> 00:18:55,406
What do you want to do?
207
00:18:55,427 --> 00:18:56,783
I think I'll get out.
208
00:18:57,221 --> 00:18:59,975
I'm going to stop in Kuau,
get things and I'm going.
209
00:19:00,058 --> 00:19:01,414
We're very late.
210
00:19:03,438 --> 00:19:04,605
Have fun l .
211
00:19:04,606 --> 00:19:06,317
He decided to go to Honulua Bay,
212
00:19:06,400 --> 00:19:08,214
and I think he decided
shoot with arrows.
213
00:19:31,101 --> 00:19:34,940
It really complicates things when
you try and do what Ian does.
214
00:19:36,442 --> 00:19:39,279
He really focused on surfing
giant waves in Jaws,
215
00:19:39,362 --> 00:19:41,908
and she's really in love
for surfing in competitions.
216
00:19:42,074 --> 00:19:45,329
The waves are with
a quarter of the size.
217
00:19:46,747 --> 00:19:48,707
So they will not see you again.
attend the event?
218
00:19:48,709 --> 00:19:50,085
It's going well now.
219
00:19:51,045 --> 00:19:54,174
My battery changed from the third day
for today, the second day,
220
00:19:54,258 --> 00:19:57,679
and this has become utter madness
to get everything ready
221
00:19:57,763 --> 00:19:59,932
and pack up to go to Oahu.
222
00:20:00,308 --> 00:20:03,521
simply insane,
all this season of competition.
223
00:20:03,646 --> 00:20:05,315
I try to help him whenever I can.
224
00:20:07,192 --> 00:20:11,740
He tries to balance both,
which is not an easy task.
225
00:20:15,787 --> 00:20:17,143
Just before my battery,
226
00:20:17,248 --> 00:20:19,124
I was warming myself
on some new boards.
227
00:20:19,125 --> 00:20:22,714
In the first wave, I climbed it
and she literally broke.
228
00:20:23,757 --> 00:20:26,069
I thought, "This is ...
Is this really happening? "
229
00:20:26,803 --> 00:20:28,722
- On a wave.
"On a wave, like this?"
230
00:20:29,139 --> 00:20:31,350
I can only improve from this point.
231
00:20:34,271 --> 00:20:39,278
Welcome to HIC Pro 2015,
a $ 100,000 event.
232
00:20:39,361 --> 00:20:41,865
Ian Walsh, ten years ago,
winning this event,
233
00:20:41,990 --> 00:20:44,368
and of course, former finalist,
234
00:20:44,494 --> 00:20:47,790
going very well in the Triple Crown Vans
of surfing, in the last year.
235
00:20:47,873 --> 00:20:50,821
If you know Ian, he's out.
seeking the biggest wave in the world.
236
00:20:52,046 --> 00:20:55,634
Jack Robinson, 17 years old,
a phenomenon in Australia.
237
00:20:56,093 --> 00:20:58,805
It will be a good wave
punctuation for theft.
238
00:20:59,306 --> 00:21:02,185
Ian ... let's see.
Red, Ian Walsh.
239
00:21:07,609 --> 00:21:11,239
Here we go. Jack Robinson
in action, firing in front.
240
00:21:11,739 --> 00:21:15,453
Jack Robinson, in white,
in first, Ian Walsh, in second.
241
00:21:16,120 --> 00:21:18,415
He is trying to improve on 5.67.
242
00:21:18,665 --> 00:21:20,022
Nice wave.
243
00:21:21,878 --> 00:21:23,589
And the alarm sounds.
244
00:21:23,714 --> 00:21:26,301
Ian Walsh, an excellent surfing experience.
245
00:21:26,426 --> 00:21:28,387
He ripped Robo out of the first place.
246
00:21:30,140 --> 00:21:32,935
Testing microphone.
Yellow, leather. Red leather.
247
00:21:33,019 --> 00:21:34,437
Ian, nice to meet you.
248
00:21:35,689 --> 00:21:37,045
good to see more of Ian Walsh.
249
00:21:37,108 --> 00:21:38,468
"My parables, Ian.
-Thank you.
250
00:21:38,568 --> 00:21:41,787
I'll say hello to the 4th grade class
of my mother, who is watching,
251
00:21:41,822 --> 00:21:43,575
Pukalani School in Maui.
252
00:21:43,867 --> 00:21:45,911
Hello, Pukalani School!
253
00:21:45,995 --> 00:21:47,831
Ian was well taken care of. Uncle Ian detonated.
254
00:21:47,914 --> 00:21:49,081
With you guys.
255
00:21:49,082 --> 00:21:50,438
It's good to see you.
-Right.
256
00:21:51,961 --> 00:21:56,718
And here we go, 23 minutes left
for two more surfers to go to the final
257
00:21:56,801 --> 00:21:58,804
along with
Kaito Kino and Billy Kemper.
258
00:21:59,138 --> 00:22:01,641
a takeoff in turbulent waters
for Ian Walsh.
259
00:22:02,434 --> 00:22:05,981
Putting the level here
for the semifinal number two.
260
00:22:06,648 --> 00:22:08,275
Surfing theft.
261
00:22:08,526 --> 00:22:10,362
Beautiful combined curve maneuver.
262
00:22:11,113 --> 00:22:12,698
Here we go, Ian Walsh.
263
00:22:13,324 --> 00:22:15,452
the famous Ian Walsh right there.
264
00:22:17,121 --> 00:22:19,207
Jack Robinson on the second wave.
265
00:22:22,420 --> 00:22:24,673
Well, that will solve it.
the second semifinal.
266
00:22:24,756 --> 00:22:29,471
Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, advancing,
in first and second, final
267
00:22:29,555 --> 00:22:31,975
to face
Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino.
268
00:22:32,767 --> 00:22:35,271
And we're on our way to the final.
269
00:22:36,147 --> 00:22:37,566
-Ian Walsh.
-Ian Walsh.
270
00:22:37,649 --> 00:22:40,570
A beautiful exit, slide in the
curve to the top.
271
00:22:40,695 --> 00:22:43,616
An aggressive curve,
down again, another turn,
272
00:22:43,699 --> 00:22:45,952
a little more aggressive,
the second turn.
273
00:22:46,328 --> 00:22:50,750
My goodness, I could not wish
a better start as a competitor.
274
00:22:55,048 --> 00:22:56,633
We got Billy coming out.
275
00:22:56,759 --> 00:22:58,428
Let's see the closing maneuver.
276
00:23:00,556 --> 00:23:04,895
And right behind him, Ian Walsh,
quickly reaching that 9.93.
277
00:23:05,604 --> 00:23:08,316
With that chill,
and he is in the lead.
278
00:23:11,153 --> 00:23:13,824
And it is simply
a return of victory at this point.
279
00:23:13,991 --> 00:23:15,409
There are few people
280
00:23:15,493 --> 00:23:18,204
As good as he is in waves.
small, and especially large,
281
00:23:18,205 --> 00:23:21,459
and proof of this their performance
in Sunset Beach.
282
00:23:21,584 --> 00:23:23,378
Look at Ian Walsh,
it is on fire.
283
00:23:23,379 --> 00:23:27,217
Billy Kemper, he stayed
with 5.6 in this event ...
284
00:23:27,551 --> 00:23:31,431
You are one, now, twice
champion of HIC Pro,
285
00:23:31,556 --> 00:23:34,269
2005 and now in 2015,
286
00:23:34,394 --> 00:23:36,313
of Maui, Ian Walsh!
287
00:23:44,449 --> 00:23:47,203
Back to the bike.
right after that.
288
00:23:56,841 --> 00:23:58,197
Right.
289
00:23:58,510 --> 00:23:59,866
Winter has come.
290
00:24:02,307 --> 00:24:03,641
What a day.
291
00:24:03,642 --> 00:24:05,478
Damn it, I'm so excited!
292
00:24:08,190 --> 00:24:11,236
It's so good to win a tournament.
293
00:24:11,403 --> 00:24:14,198
Oh, my God, I'm so electric.
294
00:24:14,532 --> 00:24:19,080
But it's so good. So many times,
I've been so close to achieving this.
295
00:24:27,550 --> 00:24:29,136
... for Ian Walsh,
296
00:24:29,511 --> 00:24:31,556
and certainly for
all children
297
00:24:31,764 --> 00:24:34,560
of his mother's class,
at the Pukalani School ...
298
00:24:34,643 --> 00:24:35,999
EAST
Airport Joint Base
299
00:24:41,653 --> 00:24:43,009
BOX OFFICE
300
00:24:47,911 --> 00:24:49,914
4:20 p.m.
301
00:24:53,169 --> 00:24:55,463
Good job. Parab ns.
302
00:24:55,964 --> 00:24:57,131
I had fun.
303
00:24:57,132 --> 00:24:58,634
I'm so excited.
304
00:25:09,316 --> 00:25:10,672
Thank you guys.
305
00:25:10,693 --> 00:25:13,613
Surely it would not have been possible
without you all, folks,
306
00:25:13,697 --> 00:25:15,031
we are all one great unity,
307
00:25:15,032 --> 00:25:17,828
Therefore,
Thank you and have fun tonight.
308
00:25:32,306 --> 00:25:34,016
I do not know about this year.
309
00:25:34,684 --> 00:25:37,677
Let's just pray that
all right, for the safety of all,
310
00:25:37,855 --> 00:25:41,276
because everyone is anxious
to continue.
311
00:25:43,196 --> 00:25:46,867
With the winter season
with El Ni o arriving,
312
00:25:46,951 --> 00:25:51,165
there are faces that really
Believe and want to surf
313
00:25:51,290 --> 00:25:53,543
in waves of 25 meters per year,
314
00:25:53,627 --> 00:25:57,090
and, the limit point, you know,
the size of the wave that can surf,
315
00:25:57,799 --> 00:25:59,593
depends on the desire of each.
316
00:26:00,595 --> 00:26:02,430
It will always progress.
317
00:26:02,556 --> 00:26:04,642
For me, sit here and say:
318
00:26:04,850 --> 00:26:07,646
"No, in our generation,
no one will get over it, "
319
00:26:07,896 --> 00:26:09,252
Stupidity.
320
00:26:10,358 --> 00:26:11,650
On the right day,
321
00:26:11,652 --> 00:26:13,528
with the right conditions,
with the right security team.
322
00:26:13,529 --> 00:26:16,658
Probably see someone this year
that would do the impossible.
323
00:26:18,619 --> 00:26:20,330
You can feel the tension in the air,
324
00:26:20,414 --> 00:26:24,044
but I can always understand
how much fun they have.
325
00:26:24,252 --> 00:26:27,840
They prepare the day before,
Wake up at daybreak ...
326
00:26:29,468 --> 00:26:32,806
JANUARY 4
327
00:26:32,889 --> 00:26:35,851
Prediction: 3.7m by 16.7 seconds
Estimated Front Height: 14.5m
328
00:26:35,935 --> 00:26:39,106
The first high sea of โโthe year in Jaws
It's always very exciting.
329
00:26:39,940 --> 00:26:42,842
Everyone is a little nervous
and excited to see each other.
330
00:26:42,945 --> 00:26:45,657
It has that energy in the air
that you can not reproduce.
331
00:26:46,199 --> 00:26:47,867
Almost as if we were entering
332
00:26:47,868 --> 00:26:50,287
in a gladiator battle
every time we go there,
333
00:26:50,288 --> 00:26:52,499
Like, you do not know.
what will happen
334
00:26:53,167 --> 00:26:54,209
AQUATIC SECURITY
335
00:26:54,210 --> 00:26:55,753
I was not in fact
here this morning
336
00:26:55,754 --> 00:26:59,175
Then we slow everything down.
instead of starting at six o'clock,
337
00:26:59,259 --> 00:27:02,972
we simply decided
come back with things
338
00:27:03,055 --> 00:27:06,560
And let's not get tired of staying
out here waiting for the waves.
339
00:27:07,812 --> 00:27:09,272
The winds come,
340
00:27:09,356 --> 00:27:12,025
but there is no wind now,
the faster we get out of here
341
00:27:12,026 --> 00:27:13,382
the better it will be.
342
00:27:32,054 --> 00:27:36,101
The first thing you really
feel the texture of the ocean.
343
00:27:36,685 --> 00:27:39,105
So you feel if there is wind
or if the sea is agitated.
344
00:27:39,898 --> 00:27:42,777
There is a lot of refraction coming from the rocks.
345
00:27:43,736 --> 00:27:46,198
You feel the energy of the sea,
346
00:27:46,824 --> 00:27:49,912
and it's really when
Things go right in the day.
347
00:27:50,078 --> 00:27:52,582
Ian is paddling. Ian is starting.
348
00:28:04,390 --> 00:28:05,599
It was a difficult one.
349
00:28:05,600 --> 00:28:07,144
It was very entertaining.
350
00:28:17,116 --> 00:28:18,743
Keep an eye out, here comes the sequence.
351
00:28:30,592 --> 00:28:32,595
Take the rope. Take the rope.
352
00:28:32,720 --> 00:28:34,076
All right?
353
00:28:36,309 --> 00:28:37,665
Right. or Greg.
354
00:28:42,859 --> 00:28:44,695
or Ian.
355
00:28:44,820 --> 00:28:46,448
Ian de p .
356
00:28:59,465 --> 00:29:01,635
I think I cut myself ugly.
357
00:29:01,844 --> 00:29:04,347
We're heading back to the boat.
Ian cut his finger.
358
00:29:04,472 --> 00:29:05,828
Prepare the boat.
359
00:29:06,433 --> 00:29:07,975
-Do you think I can still surf?
-Yes.
360
00:29:08,728 --> 00:29:10,272
Just wrap it around. Sew then.
361
00:29:10,606 --> 00:29:12,609
I had a small solution
in the middle of the day.
362
00:29:12,692 --> 00:29:15,863
The back of the helm
cut my finger
363
00:29:15,946 --> 00:29:17,574
practically to the bone.
364
00:29:17,699 --> 00:29:19,827
I made a quick bandage
and returned to the sea,
365
00:29:19,910 --> 00:29:22,664
and I got another cool wave
which was very unstable.
366
00:29:24,750 --> 00:29:26,383
I ended up taking a break
to relax
367
00:29:26,503 --> 00:29:29,298
and the waves stayed
strange soon after.
368
00:29:33,930 --> 00:29:36,922
That small dose of wind does
the difference between day and night.
369
00:29:36,934 --> 00:29:39,896
See nothing
and have salt water in the eyes ...
370
00:29:42,733 --> 00:29:44,861
Basically like
jumped from a bridge
371
00:29:44,945 --> 00:29:46,697
without knowing what is down there.
372
00:29:50,703 --> 00:29:54,541
On a very good day in Jaws,
You could go and get a wave.
373
00:29:54,625 --> 00:29:56,836
at seven, eight, nine o'clock.
374
00:29:59,590 --> 00:30:01,801
Finally we gathered the whole team,
375
00:30:01,885 --> 00:30:03,971
and I'll have my finger sewn tonight,
376
00:30:04,096 --> 00:30:07,809
make sure I did not break
no tendencies or anything.
377
00:30:08,602 --> 00:30:12,357
I think it was a mean day today,
but it was a good start.
378
00:30:13,317 --> 00:30:14,736
It's just the beginning.
379
00:30:17,114 --> 00:30:19,576
Stretch. Good. Close.
380
00:30:19,701 --> 00:30:20,701
Stretch.
381
00:30:20,702 --> 00:30:22,470
Good. Now go down.
his hand completely.
382
00:30:23,039 --> 00:30:25,292
If there is a competition, a mari pica,
383
00:30:25,375 --> 00:30:27,544
And you need to surf tomorrow,
I could protect him.
384
00:30:27,545 --> 00:30:30,257
It is better to stay out of the water
for a few days.
385
00:30:30,382 --> 00:30:32,552
Yeah, I'm aiming for the 10th.
386
00:30:32,635 --> 00:30:35,514
-Right.
-Then, 6 days would be my goal.
387
00:30:40,646 --> 00:30:43,609
The whole history of wave surfing
giants very interesting.
388
00:30:44,026 --> 00:30:45,862
You know, these guys are pioneers.
389
00:30:46,070 --> 00:30:49,033
They will l without strings
and without safety equipment.
390
00:30:49,700 --> 00:30:54,499
There has always been this idea that
anything over ten meters
391
00:30:54,582 --> 00:30:57,211
it starts to get very
dangerous for surfing,
392
00:30:57,294 --> 00:30:59,505
this impossible limit of size.
393
00:30:59,589 --> 00:31:03,052
And then there was the introduction
of this type of surfing with trailer.
394
00:31:03,261 --> 00:31:05,301
Basically, you can
climb on a board,
395
00:31:05,347 --> 00:31:07,115
could be placed
in a great wave.
396
00:31:07,600 --> 00:31:10,896
It can surf ten
or 15 waves of this type
397
00:31:10,980 --> 00:31:13,775
because you can
position much more.
398
00:31:14,234 --> 00:31:16,820
You have a machine that can
traveling at 65 kilometers per hour,
399
00:31:16,821 --> 00:31:19,742
and if it has a wave of 15 meters
in that direction, go and get it.
400
00:31:22,370 --> 00:31:26,000
The guys would not surf all year,
they would come to take the 15-meter ones.
401
00:31:26,084 --> 00:31:27,461
insane.
402
00:31:29,088 --> 00:31:31,883
You take any ordinary person
to surfing paddling in Jaws,
403
00:31:32,301 --> 00:31:34,178
can not get a wave,
and if caught,
404
00:31:34,262 --> 00:31:36,181
will be totally annihilated.
405
00:31:46,904 --> 00:31:52,203
The revolution of towing surf in the
showed that it was possible to survive
406
00:31:52,286 --> 00:31:54,748
to much larger waves
than we imagined.
407
00:32:01,340 --> 00:32:03,427
The tow surfing
helped establish
408
00:32:03,635 --> 00:32:06,431
the jet ski as a
security tool
409
00:32:06,514 --> 00:32:08,517
and for everything you do in the ocean.
410
00:32:10,269 --> 00:32:16,027
It was really the step for the next one.
evolution of giant wave surfing.
411
00:32:17,279 --> 00:32:20,033
I used to compete
paddling with the boards,
412
00:32:20,116 --> 00:32:22,453
and had the idea that
I could do
413
00:32:22,661 --> 00:32:24,456
these boards
be faster.
414
00:32:25,666 --> 00:32:30,255
That's when Ian, Greg
and some other guys
415
00:32:30,380 --> 00:32:32,216
they began to row these things.
416
00:32:34,261 --> 00:32:37,515
We make this conscious decision
to stop with the trailer surfing
417
00:32:37,724 --> 00:32:39,268
and return to rowing.
418
00:32:44,900 --> 00:32:48,030
All the speed at which the wave
travels when it reaches 15 meters
419
00:32:48,113 --> 00:32:51,618
Too fast for drawing
standard board Everything needs to change.
420
00:32:53,203 --> 00:32:54,881
Are they ready?
I'm not sure.
421
00:32:54,956 --> 00:32:57,751
No one has done this before,
then no one knows.
422
00:32:59,462 --> 00:33:02,758
Chris Christenson,
he has the details
423
00:33:02,842 --> 00:33:05,804
I do not think any other
plank designer has.
424
00:33:06,555 --> 00:33:10,185
So I plan to find something
Give us a little more
425
00:33:10,269 --> 00:33:11,979
and that every time I get sick,
426
00:33:12,063 --> 00:33:14,733
or because I went down the wave
too fast.
427
00:33:14,816 --> 00:33:16,568
After every big
mar that he surfs,
428
00:33:16,569 --> 00:33:18,518
we talked to each other,
shortly thereafter.
429
00:33:18,572 --> 00:33:20,866
Have this trail more
parallel up there
430
00:33:20,950 --> 00:33:23,307
will allow plank to work better
at the base of the wave,
431
00:33:23,328 --> 00:33:26,541
we will allow you to paddle faster
with shoulders farther apart
432
00:33:26,624 --> 00:33:29,795
and have a larger syrup,
will give you more maneuverability.
433
00:33:33,050 --> 00:33:36,388
If they can trust me
before entering the water,
434
00:33:36,471 --> 00:33:38,849
this leaves them at an advantage in the game.
435
00:33:45,150 --> 00:33:47,695
JANUARY, 10
436
00:33:49,197 --> 00:33:50,948
Preview 3.9m in 14.7 seconds
Estimated Front Height: 13m
437
00:33:50,949 --> 00:33:52,660
The forecast looks very good,
438
00:33:52,785 --> 00:33:54,413
probably the best of the year.
439
00:33:54,538 --> 00:33:56,456
Do you think it's the size
What are Ian looking for?
440
00:33:56,457 --> 00:33:59,252
No, Ian is looking for
for as long as possible.
441
00:34:01,130 --> 00:34:03,884
It just ... looks like the sea
is not here yet
442
00:34:04,009 --> 00:34:07,347
I do not know, markers simply
they are not obvious.
443
00:34:07,806 --> 00:34:10,935
I think we're just going to start
now and continue with our plan
444
00:34:11,019 --> 00:34:12,375
and go to l at first light,
445
00:34:12,396 --> 00:34:14,607
hoping it gets better
throughout the morning.
446
00:34:21,617 --> 00:34:23,744
The best conditions till now.
447
00:34:27,166 --> 00:34:30,128
The fact of the forecast
we have indicated light winds
448
00:34:30,212 --> 00:34:33,508
aroused much more interest
of surfers around the world.
449
00:34:46,734 --> 00:34:49,238
Concentration of people in the morning
was lighter,
450
00:34:49,363 --> 00:34:52,409
so you could stand
and begin to line up with the waves
451
00:34:52,492 --> 00:34:55,246
any way he wanted,
where he wanted to pick them up.
452
00:35:05,176 --> 00:35:08,932
I think the board of a guy passed
well above me at the end of the tube.
453
00:35:20,030 --> 00:35:22,283
And so, according to
more people arrive,
454
00:35:22,367 --> 00:35:24,286
the place you take it
the waves dictation,
455
00:35:24,495 --> 00:35:26,289
based on where
he's stuck in the crowd.
456
00:35:29,126 --> 00:35:32,171
You know, when you're turning around,
trying to paddle for a giant wave,
457
00:35:32,172 --> 00:35:34,258
and you have people on your left,
and on the right,
458
00:35:34,295 --> 00:35:35,467
positioning itself, calling ...
459
00:35:35,468 --> 00:35:37,970
The press is there. H helicopters
flying everywhere,
460
00:35:37,972 --> 00:35:40,350
drones buzzing in your head,
461
00:35:40,433 --> 00:35:43,396
boats passing one upon the other,
It's just chaos.
462
00:35:45,231 --> 00:35:47,109
I surfed in Jaws for 15 years,
463
00:35:47,193 --> 00:35:49,779
and I will not go there anymore
because it's just a crazy zone.
464
00:35:49,905 --> 00:35:51,490
It's not fun, it's very dangerous.
465
00:35:52,700 --> 00:35:55,511
The last thing I want to do
To hurt someone with the board.
466
00:35:58,208 --> 00:36:00,419
When you make mistakes.
467
00:36:00,502 --> 00:36:04,007
You know, you're surfing accordingly.
with the crowd, not with what he wants.
468
00:36:12,227 --> 00:36:15,440
When you have 50 people l ,
I definitely do not feel comfortable
469
00:36:15,523 --> 00:36:17,776
Ian, on the other hand,
It seems to go well.
470
00:37:12,810 --> 00:37:15,022
Let's get a second wave.
471
00:37:45,814 --> 00:37:50,028
To stay with my brother in the water in Jaws
It's something I can not even explain.
472
00:37:50,821 --> 00:37:53,157
probably one of the moments
more special.
473
00:37:53,366 --> 00:37:56,245
There is nothing that we can not be,
It is the best feeling in the world.
474
00:37:56,871 --> 00:38:00,250
On most days, we take turns,
making the security of each other,
475
00:38:00,376 --> 00:38:02,587
and this gives us all
a chance to surf.
476
00:38:33,796 --> 00:38:37,134
Only three or four
very good sequences came today,
477
00:38:37,218 --> 00:38:39,513
in a period of eight to ten hours.
478
00:38:40,723 --> 00:38:43,268
The climate and all things are here,
but the sea.
479
00:38:43,935 --> 00:38:45,354
The waves are very small.
480
00:38:45,646 --> 00:38:48,275
I will be impressed
if they really hit it.
481
00:38:54,533 --> 00:38:57,496
A great contribution
for evolution
482
00:38:57,704 --> 00:38:59,498
of the sport, in fact,
the security.
483
00:38:59,999 --> 00:39:03,546
And the most notable is the inflatable clothing.
that we have developed.
484
00:39:03,629 --> 00:39:05,966
I had the idea of
inflatable bathing suit
485
00:39:06,049 --> 00:39:08,134
for an experiment
of near death in the Mavericks.
486
00:39:08,135 --> 00:39:12,349
December 2010
487
00:39:14,311 --> 00:39:17,023
I was getting old,
He was married, having children,
488
00:39:17,231 --> 00:39:19,952
I just felt it was
too dangerous to be worth it.
489
00:39:20,986 --> 00:39:24,742
It was something that was necessary,
because the sport has reached a level
490
00:39:24,825 --> 00:39:26,953
in which we were losing people.
491
00:39:27,036 --> 00:39:28,914
You know, that was not acceptable.
492
00:39:31,209 --> 00:39:33,420
When you fall, you pull a rope,
493
00:39:33,504 --> 00:39:36,257
the costume inflates and takes you to the surface.
494
00:39:36,883 --> 00:39:38,092
You will not think:
495
00:39:38,093 --> 00:39:39,970
"You know what? I'm sure.
because I have the suit. "
496
00:39:39,971 --> 00:39:41,807
You do not want to have that attitude.
497
00:39:43,267 --> 00:39:46,061
What happens when you are in
a situation where your dress is active?
498
00:39:46,062 --> 00:39:48,190
Or in a situation
in which his costume does not activate?
499
00:39:50,068 --> 00:39:51,487
So, because of the suit,
500
00:39:51,737 --> 00:39:56,035
You have many more people than you.
they would be there if it were not for him.
501
00:39:56,535 --> 00:40:00,499
People, in certain places,
they became uncontrollable, therefore.
502
00:40:00,666 --> 00:40:02,251
This is the paradox, of course.
503
00:40:12,307 --> 00:40:15,269
It saved lives, but in a way,
504
00:40:15,353 --> 00:40:17,606
I feel it put at risk
lives of people
505
00:40:17,689 --> 00:40:20,109
that they would not be there, without the suit.
506
00:40:22,738 --> 00:40:25,116
Are you going surfing in?
Any place in the world,
507
00:40:25,200 --> 00:40:27,285
must have a safety plan
and a second reservation,
508
00:40:27,286 --> 00:40:28,646
and another plan after that.
509
00:40:29,622 --> 00:40:32,835
Most people think that
the suit is the safety plan.
510
00:40:33,044 --> 00:40:36,090
And they assume that the
I will rescue them.
511
00:40:38,927 --> 00:40:41,639
Certainly it was morally difficult
not start,
512
00:40:41,722 --> 00:40:43,309
when it began to get very full.
513
00:40:44,476 --> 00:40:46,521
I could never live knowing
514
00:40:46,604 --> 00:40:48,898
What was I supposed to be?
l working with this group,
515
00:40:48,899 --> 00:40:50,443
which I consider my family,
516
00:40:50,526 --> 00:40:54,156
and that something happened because
I was not taking care of them,
517
00:40:54,281 --> 00:40:55,950
I was taking care of someone else
518
00:40:56,034 --> 00:40:58,074
that had nothing to do
with our operation.
519
00:40:59,747 --> 00:41:02,500
I do not think it's the right of
somebody say what can or can not,
520
00:41:02,501 --> 00:41:07,383
but when you cross that line of
not following the safety protocol,
521
00:41:07,466 --> 00:41:09,461
how to be able to care
first of all,
522
00:41:09,636 --> 00:41:11,177
You kind of crossed the line.
523
00:41:11,179 --> 00:41:14,184
and need to rethink
about what he's doing there.
524
00:41:15,894 --> 00:41:18,231
If you look at the inflatable costume,
525
00:41:18,606 --> 00:41:22,445
yes, it's a nightmare, on certain days,
in certain waves ...
526
00:41:23,363 --> 00:41:27,619
but the sport simply
became incredible because of it.
527
00:41:38,175 --> 00:41:41,680
In the fifteenth, we had a sea
which was expected to be
528
00:41:41,763 --> 00:41:44,349
bigger than anything
which we had all winter,
529
00:41:44,350 --> 00:41:45,936
maybe in my life.
530
00:41:47,688 --> 00:41:52,278
So, you're lining up to be a
monumental day for the paddled surf.
531
00:41:52,361 --> 00:41:56,325
Prediction 5.5m in 18.2 seconds
Estimated Frontal Height: 22.5m
532
00:41:56,617 --> 00:41:57,994
Beautiful setting.
533
00:41:58,077 --> 00:42:01,081
15th of January
534
00:42:01,415 --> 00:42:03,752
Bring towing boards
was part of the discussion,
535
00:42:03,835 --> 00:42:07,966
but I'm stubbornly trying to row.
536
00:42:08,049 --> 00:42:09,926
I think we are all
a little scared,
537
00:42:09,927 --> 00:42:13,181
it's kind of worried
with how great it will be today,
538
00:42:13,265 --> 00:42:15,622
but we hope it is,
in some way, controllable.
539
00:42:18,856 --> 00:42:20,533
In fact,
I'm very nervous now
540
00:42:20,608 --> 00:42:21,964
for having to surf there.
541
00:42:21,985 --> 00:42:24,363
I do not know, I have this
strange feeling.
542
00:42:25,699 --> 00:42:28,494
Certainly shaken. No one day
to show feelings ...
543
00:42:29,829 --> 00:42:31,688
I'm a little out of control,
certainly.
544
00:42:32,374 --> 00:42:34,335
Greg was basically
sick all the time.
545
00:42:34,461 --> 00:42:37,423
He could not surf. Therefore,
Greg ended up doing the security.
546
00:42:38,341 --> 00:42:41,178
It's very difficult to do well.
on a day like this.
547
00:42:41,429 --> 00:42:44,975
You know how much you waited
for a day like this,
548
00:42:45,058 --> 00:42:46,415
to get surf.
549
00:42:48,355 --> 00:42:52,193
Everything we look for,
dropping big waves,
550
00:42:52,277 --> 00:42:53,682
was pointing to this day.
551
00:42:56,449 --> 00:42:59,495
I had never seen Jaws burst
that way in my life.
552
00:43:00,413 --> 00:43:02,082
Two hours, we're leaving.
553
00:43:02,916 --> 00:43:04,272
Watch.
554
00:43:14,891 --> 00:43:19,439
As if you were rehearsing
to get the rhythm,
555
00:43:19,523 --> 00:43:21,943
because the wave moves very fast
556
00:43:22,026 --> 00:43:24,446
and there is a lot of water hitting his face.
557
00:43:25,865 --> 00:43:29,453
A perfect example of:
"Be careful what you want".
558
00:43:47,311 --> 00:43:48,667
Heating!
559
00:44:22,234 --> 00:44:23,590
Shane, come on up!
560
00:44:23,611 --> 00:44:24,967
Shane.
561
00:44:25,530 --> 00:44:29,160
Yes, Shane. It was amazing.
562
00:45:57,782 --> 00:45:59,576
You caught an incredible wave, did not you?
563
00:46:01,745 --> 00:46:04,750
It just felt as if the
ocean was under control.
564
00:46:07,545 --> 00:46:09,338
It was not like a normal day,
where you can
565
00:46:09,339 --> 00:46:11,634
have fun, like, everyone was ...
566
00:46:33,706 --> 00:46:34,998
Come on, come on.
567
00:46:35,000 --> 00:46:36,208
Come on, come on.
568
00:46:36,210 --> 00:46:37,566
Are you okay?
-My neck.
569
00:46:37,670 --> 00:46:39,026
"What?"
-My neck.
570
00:46:39,714 --> 00:46:41,070
Here Shaun Walsh.
571
00:46:41,383 --> 00:46:43,469
DK has a possible injury
in the cervical area.
572
00:46:44,679 --> 00:46:46,901
I'm tingling a lot
and my neck is sore.
573
00:46:47,892 --> 00:46:49,269
Take me with Shaun.
574
00:46:52,524 --> 00:46:54,818
I could look into everyone's eyes,
575
00:46:54,902 --> 00:46:58,323
and say, "My God, that was
what happened in Cortes ".
576
00:46:58,866 --> 00:47:01,286
It was the reverse situation.
577
00:47:01,745 --> 00:47:03,513
DK was l ,
he saved Greg's life,
578
00:47:03,706 --> 00:47:05,500
and now,
Greg is doing what he can.
579
00:47:07,878 --> 00:47:09,421
It was just kind of surreal.
580
00:47:09,422 --> 00:47:11,550
Like, my heart sank, you know?
581
00:47:11,675 --> 00:47:14,305
I did not know how serious it was,
or what was happening.
582
00:47:15,472 --> 00:47:17,475
DK, do you want to call the emergency?
583
00:47:17,558 --> 00:47:19,060
I need an ambulance.
584
00:47:19,269 --> 00:47:20,625
Do not call Mom.
585
00:47:22,189 --> 00:47:25,569
No matter how good the waves are,
This is the priority, it does not matter.
586
00:47:25,819 --> 00:47:27,822
We took it with great security.
587
00:47:28,156 --> 00:47:32,412
The goal is to simply take it
to a higher level of care.
588
00:47:32,871 --> 00:47:35,750
When it happens,
There is not much we can do.
589
00:47:36,209 --> 00:47:38,629
Shaun, he and Luke,
everybody trying to go with me,
590
00:47:38,712 --> 00:47:41,614
but looking at how good the waves
were, wanted them to stay.
591
00:47:41,633 --> 00:47:44,178
Once in life the conditions
of the sea stay like this.
592
00:47:49,936 --> 00:47:52,523
We stayed out and this
has turned into
593
00:47:52,731 --> 00:47:55,527
a very important day
of my life.
594
00:48:35,123 --> 00:48:37,835
I just took a wave in the face.
595
00:48:37,918 --> 00:48:40,338
and I got no advantage for a while.
596
00:48:57,737 --> 00:48:59,323
I saw him enter this wave,
597
00:48:59,406 --> 00:49:02,217
and well when I saw him stand by,
I thought, "He's in too much."
598
00:49:02,285 --> 00:49:06,207
And, you know, when you're there,
Sometimes you have to take the risk.
599
00:49:34,288 --> 00:49:37,375
And he was from p all the time
in which the wave descended.
600
00:49:37,500 --> 00:49:39,086
I thought he was going to jump.
601
00:50:19,767 --> 00:50:22,186
You know what happened,
and some of the surfer here today,
602
00:50:22,187 --> 00:50:24,398
You know, history was made,
certainly.
603
00:50:25,942 --> 00:50:29,405
Yes, today was amazing,
but as soon as I caught that wave,
604
00:50:29,530 --> 00:50:32,326
reality hit and all that
I could think, it was in DK.
605
00:50:51,477 --> 00:50:53,939
Nothing was broken, nothing fractured.
606
00:50:54,022 --> 00:50:56,359
All exams and resonances
were good.
607
00:50:56,985 --> 00:50:59,822
Now, for the next one,
I have to wear this cervical collar,
608
00:51:00,990 --> 00:51:05,914
It's kind of a lie for a while.
and wait for my body to recover.
609
00:51:11,713 --> 00:51:13,966
It has been an intense January.
610
00:51:14,467 --> 00:51:19,182
A week ago,
we had one of the biggest days I've ever seen
611
00:51:19,265 --> 00:51:22,019
with clean winds,
in my whole life here.
612
00:51:22,436 --> 00:51:25,983
I just felt that I never
we will see all that
613
00:51:26,066 --> 00:51:27,422
happen again,
614
00:51:27,443 --> 00:51:30,280
until we get really old,
cheering on a cliff.
615
00:51:31,365 --> 00:51:35,329
And so, a great system
appeared in the middle of the Pacific,
616
00:51:35,412 --> 00:51:37,123
and here we are.
617
00:51:37,207 --> 00:51:38,667
JANUARY 28
618
00:51:39,168 --> 00:51:40,502
4.5m forecast in 20 seconds
Estimated Front Height: 20m
619
00:51:40,503 --> 00:51:43,215
Just have another chance
with conditions like this
620
00:51:43,298 --> 00:51:49,098
... kind of made me take a step
behind and to value a little more
621
00:51:49,181 --> 00:51:51,142
by the seas we are having now.
622
00:51:53,354 --> 00:51:56,346
I thought my winter had
finished after leaving the hospital,
623
00:51:56,358 --> 00:51:58,611
Then I was discharged
of doctors in Los Angeles.
624
00:51:58,694 --> 00:52:00,281
He said that everything was in place.
625
00:52:00,405 --> 00:52:03,409
I'm very grateful. I never thought
that this would happen.
626
00:52:05,287 --> 00:52:09,209
And it was horrible for him not to be able to
surf, but he , without any doubts,
627
00:52:09,292 --> 00:52:11,587
the best face
on the jet ski, doing the security.
628
00:52:11,712 --> 00:52:15,509
So I think of everything, the group feels
much more comfortable and confident,
629
00:52:15,593 --> 00:52:17,178
just by having it in the water.
630
00:52:17,470 --> 00:52:19,223
Right, it's Greg.
631
00:52:36,580 --> 00:52:38,802
Pay attention to Greg, boys.
Pay attention.
632
00:52:38,833 --> 00:52:40,189
I caught him.
633
00:52:41,420 --> 00:52:42,776
Vit ria.
634
00:52:43,381 --> 00:52:47,428
In this sport, you will definitely
wants to see his friends do well.
635
00:52:47,553 --> 00:52:49,681
For Greg, he caught a wave
A few years ago ...
636
00:52:49,765 --> 00:52:50,723
October 2012
637
00:52:50,724 --> 00:52:53,395
... which was the best tube
I already got Jaws.
638
00:52:58,443 --> 00:53:02,449
And as he crossed,
he fell, flying out of the tube.
639
00:53:06,871 --> 00:53:09,750
He called it a trip.
on the finish line.
640
00:53:11,837 --> 00:53:13,881
You simply see
how much time and energy
641
00:53:13,965 --> 00:53:16,593
goes in each of these waves
they are surfing
642
00:53:16,718 --> 00:53:20,140
and how long does it take
to get a day like this,
643
00:53:20,348 --> 00:53:23,937
and it was really cool to see everything
working for Greg today.
644
00:53:42,212 --> 00:53:45,842
He took a tube and left.
You could almost see
645
00:53:45,967 --> 00:53:49,597
all energy and work
who were employed in that wave,
646
00:53:49,680 --> 00:53:51,099
kind, coming out of it.
647
00:53:51,266 --> 00:53:52,622
Good, Greg!
648
00:53:54,562 --> 00:53:56,982
We have Dorian surfing.
649
00:54:32,656 --> 00:54:34,408
Part of what Jaws , type,
650
00:54:34,659 --> 00:54:37,246
You surf for six hours,
651
00:54:37,454 --> 00:54:40,250
you can have only one
good opportunity on a wave.
652
00:54:58,316 --> 00:55:03,281
About four hours later, I got
one of the best waves I've had.
653
00:56:09,664 --> 00:56:11,542
Everything finally fell into place.
654
00:56:11,751 --> 00:56:16,257
Instead of focusing on the goal
to surf the biggest wave of his life,
655
00:56:16,632 --> 00:56:18,802
it is more about giving
one step back
656
00:56:18,885 --> 00:56:20,679
and enjoy all
the little things
657
00:56:20,888 --> 00:56:22,682
who took you there,
and live these days.
658
00:56:24,935 --> 00:56:27,314
The last El Ni o was in 1998.
659
00:56:27,856 --> 00:56:30,568
There were only four
El Ni os for real, in 40 years.
660
00:56:31,361 --> 00:56:33,280
The best big waves I've ever seen.
661
00:56:33,405 --> 00:56:36,201
I have surfed big waves
It's 25 years.
662
00:56:39,497 --> 00:56:43,669
Ian chose a path
that really serves it.
663
00:56:43,878 --> 00:56:47,675
I'm just blessed as a father.
664
00:56:54,559 --> 00:56:59,232
Part of surfing simply
Look at what comes next.
665
00:57:01,235 --> 00:57:02,591
It's true what they say.
666
00:57:02,654 --> 00:57:05,950
The greater the adversity,
the greater the conquest.
667
00:57:06,284 --> 00:57:09,622
And for me, it does not matter
the size of the waves,
668
00:57:09,789 --> 00:57:11,624
or stepping into the unknown,
669
00:57:12,000 --> 00:57:13,356
Where do I want to be?
53221
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