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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:19,560 --> 00:00:25,568 SOUTHERN PACIFIC 2 00:01:01,326 --> 00:01:04,789 At this age and age, You need to go a little while. 3 00:01:04,997 --> 00:01:07,876 or at least wish take a few more steps 4 00:01:08,002 --> 00:01:10,349 that any other person is willing to give 5 00:01:11,393 --> 00:01:15,565 Subpack and sync by DanDee 6 00:02:20,685 --> 00:02:22,103 Walsh wins Xcel Pro 7 00:02:41,714 --> 00:02:43,226 Surfer AS 100 BEST WAVES 8 00:02:49,099 --> 00:02:50,455 THE END OF THE MACHINE 9 00:03:20,726 --> 00:03:22,082 That's it, boys. 10 00:03:23,396 --> 00:03:24,752 Long flight. 11 00:03:25,274 --> 00:03:27,026 Somewhat relaxing. 12 00:03:27,735 --> 00:03:29,028 Take that tip. 13 00:03:29,029 --> 00:03:32,784 We kind of get caught up in the weather and we missed the best day of March. 14 00:03:34,411 --> 00:03:36,956 Part of what we do like surfers, 15 00:03:37,081 --> 00:03:39,001 You screw up. 16 00:03:39,794 --> 00:03:44,175 Not every trip we make we have perfect surfing, 17 00:03:44,258 --> 00:03:46,010 and it always works out. 18 00:03:46,261 --> 00:03:47,712 It just does not work that way. 19 00:03:50,517 --> 00:03:52,394 Now we are at the end of summer, 20 00:03:52,478 --> 00:03:56,400 and now my focus is shifting for the northern hemisphere 21 00:03:56,525 --> 00:03:58,319 and the preparation for Hawaii. 22 00:03:59,612 --> 00:04:00,613 When they foresee a strong El Ni o, 23 00:04:00,614 --> 00:04:01,614 Brother 24 00:04:01,615 --> 00:04:02,574 HOOKIPA BEACH 25 00:04:02,575 --> 00:04:03,867 ... everyone gets excited. 26 00:04:03,868 --> 00:04:06,914 O El Ni o, basically like an unusual time pattern. 27 00:04:06,998 --> 00:04:08,373 The Pacific Ocean is hotter than normal 28 00:04:08,374 --> 00:04:09,291 SURFER 29 00:04:09,292 --> 00:04:11,212 ... and allows us to pick up many big waves. 30 00:04:12,046 --> 00:04:13,924 I really started getting serious. 31 00:04:14,007 --> 00:04:16,177 when Ian sat with me and Shaun one day 32 00:04:16,260 --> 00:04:17,887 and said, "Be prepared, this may be the craziest winter of their lives. " 33 00:04:17,888 --> 00:04:19,244 Brother 34 00:04:20,808 --> 00:04:23,604 The last El Ni o was in 1998. 35 00:04:23,729 --> 00:04:25,273 It was an incredible winter. 36 00:04:25,356 --> 00:04:26,356 JANUARY 1998 37 00:04:26,358 --> 00:04:28,444 There were many sessions of giant waves in Jaws. 38 00:04:29,111 --> 00:04:31,782 Extreme surfing, extreme conditions, 39 00:04:31,865 --> 00:04:32,824 simply day after day, of perfection. 40 00:04:32,825 --> 00:04:34,326 PROJECTOR OF PLANTS AND TRAINER 41 00:04:34,327 --> 00:04:36,914 Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico, 42 00:04:36,997 --> 00:04:38,916 who stood the test of time. 43 00:04:41,128 --> 00:04:44,382 A really strong El Ni o happens so rarely, 44 00:04:44,549 --> 00:04:48,805 what a great opportunity to see what the limit is, 45 00:04:49,139 --> 00:04:51,142 Until where the surf goes. 46 00:04:53,812 --> 00:04:55,230 I think you will see the biggest waves being surfed ... 47 00:04:55,231 --> 00:04:56,189 SURFER 48 00:04:56,190 --> 00:04:57,546 ... in the history of our sport. 49 00:05:00,279 --> 00:05:03,450 Jaws basically has the largest wave in the world. 50 00:05:04,994 --> 00:05:06,579 And Ian lives straight away. 51 00:05:07,539 --> 00:05:10,001 So he's in a very unusual position. 52 00:05:13,756 --> 00:05:14,965 SURFER 53 00:05:14,966 --> 00:05:17,777 If Jaws is rolling, the world of Surfing descends on your shoulders. 54 00:05:20,223 --> 00:05:23,019 Are you ready to good waves of one to two meters, 55 00:05:23,102 --> 00:05:24,729 but it's only about 18 meters. 56 00:05:26,315 --> 00:05:28,610 And something you can surf, 57 00:05:28,693 --> 00:05:30,195 You know, you can paddle in there. 58 00:05:39,166 --> 00:05:41,169 The way that Ian and these guys are surfing 59 00:05:41,795 --> 00:05:45,591 they are surfing like they are waves of two meters. 60 00:05:50,306 --> 00:05:52,016 You have to laugh. It's difficult to understand, you know. 61 00:05:52,017 --> 00:05:53,436 SURFER 62 00:05:56,148 --> 00:05:59,819 There is almost no other place which offered this intensity. 63 00:06:05,077 --> 00:06:08,832 A wave can drag you tens of meters under the water. 64 00:06:14,131 --> 00:06:15,632 With a Violence that you can not 65 00:06:15,633 --> 00:06:17,427 control their arms, you hit yourself, 66 00:06:17,635 --> 00:06:19,722 He really thinks he's going to die. 67 00:06:26,648 --> 00:06:29,902 Fight and try to force 68 00:06:30,695 --> 00:06:34,283 can burn more oxygen than you can. 69 00:06:43,421 --> 00:06:45,215 a calculated risk that you assume, 70 00:06:45,298 --> 00:06:47,301 and you manage and minimizes risks 71 00:06:47,510 --> 00:06:49,304 with your physical conditioning 72 00:06:49,888 --> 00:06:51,515 and mentally prepared. 73 00:06:57,607 --> 00:06:58,963 325, Ian. 74 00:06:59,193 --> 00:07:01,195 A good ride, good work ... 75 00:07:01,404 --> 00:07:02,760 and stop! 76 00:07:06,035 --> 00:07:07,391 Good test. 77 00:07:10,917 --> 00:07:13,003 Ian is one of our more dedicated athletes. 78 00:07:13,087 --> 00:07:15,423 In fact, throughout the curriculum, 79 00:07:15,507 --> 00:07:17,508 he probably participated more training ... 80 00:07:17,509 --> 00:07:18,677 HIGH PERFORMANCE COACH 81 00:07:18,678 --> 00:07:20,347 ... that any other if I remember. 82 00:07:22,391 --> 00:07:25,020 You go from things that are very practical, which we call 83 00:07:25,228 --> 00:07:26,270 training. 84 00:07:26,271 --> 00:07:28,274 All these things, you can see 85 00:07:28,483 --> 00:07:30,277 directly the relationship with better surfing. 86 00:07:30,778 --> 00:07:34,366 The interesting thing is that Ian also pioneered the boundaries. 87 00:07:34,449 --> 00:07:37,287 He participated in training where we challenge you, 88 00:07:37,495 --> 00:07:38,914 and in this environment, 89 00:07:38,997 --> 00:07:41,375 I think we see evolution in training for big waves, 90 00:07:41,376 --> 00:07:43,837 in this idea of ​​triumph under pressure. 91 00:07:43,921 --> 00:07:46,633 Fifteen seconds. Do you want to go? to the next stage. Let's go! 92 00:07:50,346 --> 00:07:53,350 - You got it! Let's go! -Good work, my friend. 93 00:07:53,434 --> 00:07:55,395 He rehearses his techniques 94 00:07:55,478 --> 00:07:58,107 in the sense of making the right decision on the right time, 95 00:07:58,190 --> 00:07:59,868 when the parameters are very high. 96 00:08:03,114 --> 00:08:05,534 If they get caught by a wave of 20 meters, 97 00:08:05,617 --> 00:08:07,494 need to have all the skills and techniques 98 00:08:07,495 --> 00:08:08,537 FREE DIVING COACH 99 00:08:08,538 --> 00:08:11,959 to hold the breath in a emergency that can last a minute, 100 00:08:14,796 --> 00:08:16,591 and you need to do this several times, 101 00:08:16,674 --> 00:08:19,720 with intervals of only 15 seconds. 102 00:08:21,556 --> 00:08:23,141 Your violent shark. 103 00:08:24,935 --> 00:08:27,230 The effort by which we make them pass the equivalent 104 00:08:27,314 --> 00:08:30,693 of any highly trained, with whom we already work. 105 00:08:31,736 --> 00:08:34,115 You just know that I'm giving me the maximum 106 00:08:34,198 --> 00:08:37,035 to stay the most comfortable possible 107 00:08:37,119 --> 00:08:40,665 in the less comfortable environment which I can imagine. 108 00:08:41,750 --> 00:08:44,212 He is doing dives of 50 meters, 109 00:08:44,421 --> 00:08:46,757 apneia of almost five minutes. 110 00:08:48,718 --> 00:08:51,764 Need to be prepared to the maximum level, 111 00:08:51,889 --> 00:08:53,516 otherwise, will find, 112 00:08:53,725 --> 00:08:56,521 that wave that can not support. 113 00:08:59,483 --> 00:09:00,567 DECEMBER 2012 114 00:09:00,568 --> 00:09:02,236 CORTES BANK 180 KM WEST OF SAN DIEGO 115 00:09:02,237 --> 00:09:03,780 From experience, 116 00:09:04,448 --> 00:09:06,576 DK saved my life, no doubt. 117 00:09:07,995 --> 00:09:10,248 I drowned in Cortes Bank. 118 00:09:16,590 --> 00:09:17,946 The ambulance is on its way. 119 00:09:24,893 --> 00:09:26,249 What happened? 120 00:09:27,146 --> 00:09:29,691 You were pulled down. and simply stayed ... 121 00:09:30,859 --> 00:09:33,852 The board hit you in the head, on the belly or somewhere else? 122 00:09:34,072 --> 00:09:36,409 If it was not for DK be l ... 123 00:09:37,201 --> 00:09:38,410 PLYWOOD PROJECTOR 124 00:09:38,411 --> 00:09:40,769 ... you know, it's the big reason Greg's still alive. 125 00:09:43,669 --> 00:09:45,025 If it were not for him, 126 00:09:45,046 --> 00:09:46,678 heroically, abandoning jet ski to 127 00:09:46,798 --> 00:09:48,592 hundreds of kilometers, in the middle of the sea, 128 00:09:48,676 --> 00:09:50,344 to take my body without life, 129 00:09:50,428 --> 00:09:54,559 and then hold me and cross two more or three big waves ... 130 00:09:55,184 --> 00:09:58,648 You will not find any other rescue team like this in the world. 131 00:10:00,191 --> 00:10:01,985 Saving someone's life, especially 132 00:10:02,194 --> 00:10:03,988 of someone like him, so close, 133 00:10:04,072 --> 00:10:07,535 really motivated me to do what we do today. 134 00:10:09,746 --> 00:10:11,790 I and my brothers, we are all a little younger 135 00:10:11,791 --> 00:10:14,503 but at home we moved, taking care of each other. 136 00:10:14,920 --> 00:10:17,340 And that's because of Ian and his brothers. 137 00:10:18,592 --> 00:10:20,886 We used to call them of "the squirrels". 138 00:10:21,220 --> 00:10:24,057 Ian was the knight and they, their little helpers ... 139 00:10:24,224 --> 00:10:25,266 DAD 140 00:10:25,267 --> 00:10:26,624 ... and it was very good. 141 00:10:27,980 --> 00:10:30,817 If Shaun and DK are there, the twins, he's fine. 142 00:10:30,900 --> 00:10:33,076 Like, they'll get him, no matter what happened 143 00:10:33,320 --> 00:10:34,237 Mother 144 00:10:34,238 --> 00:10:35,531 Make things easier. 145 00:10:35,532 --> 00:10:37,826 It's never easy, but it makes it easier. 146 00:10:42,917 --> 00:10:46,505 What a crazy combination, the four brothers. 147 00:10:46,755 --> 00:10:48,132 They are a team. 148 00:10:49,092 --> 00:10:51,762 He is the oldest brother, we all follow in his footsteps. 149 00:10:51,846 --> 00:10:53,202 If he were a degenerate, 150 00:10:53,223 --> 00:10:54,265 Brother 151 00:10:54,266 --> 00:10:56,226 we would probably have followed by this way, 152 00:10:56,227 --> 00:10:59,273 but he was a student exemplary in the collegiate. 153 00:11:02,026 --> 00:11:05,489 My love and passion for big waves. 154 00:11:05,865 --> 00:11:08,660 I would not be what, without my brothers. 155 00:11:09,203 --> 00:11:10,559 It just would not work. 156 00:11:15,211 --> 00:11:17,631 It seemed that even before of winter to begin, 157 00:11:17,715 --> 00:11:19,425 he was working hard. 158 00:11:22,930 --> 00:11:25,106 He kind of knew that there was an anticipation there, 159 00:11:25,183 --> 00:11:27,228 since El Ni o was drawing 160 00:11:27,311 --> 00:11:28,944 and the climate began to settle. 161 00:11:29,063 --> 00:11:32,860 He is one of the few elite athletes in our sport. 162 00:11:33,820 --> 00:11:36,908 And the twins, they kind of look different. 163 00:11:37,158 --> 00:11:40,830 They are like their own natural training, I would say so. 164 00:11:42,332 --> 00:11:44,009 really connect with yourself 165 00:11:44,084 --> 00:11:47,130 and remain physically active, no matter what you do. 166 00:11:51,720 --> 00:11:55,099 Beyond all science and the community supporting 167 00:11:55,183 --> 00:11:57,314 and trying to help him to improve in large waves, 168 00:11:57,603 --> 00:12:01,525 I think it's just important he surfed, for the sake of surfing. 169 00:12:03,694 --> 00:12:07,116 There is no competition, the waves They're as big as they can be ... 170 00:12:08,159 --> 00:12:10,370 connect with your friends and enjoy, 171 00:12:10,495 --> 00:12:13,333 and that is an important part of this program. 172 00:12:18,173 --> 00:12:19,850 My favorite type surfer 173 00:12:20,009 --> 00:12:21,803 who gets to have fun with everything. 174 00:12:21,970 --> 00:12:24,097 If the wave of one meter or 25, 175 00:12:24,181 --> 00:12:26,517 he will still be able to go there and have fun. 176 00:12:26,810 --> 00:12:29,984 Guys like Ian are the guys in which really inspires me, for this. 177 00:17:36,610 --> 00:17:39,948 Basically, in each high seas, you have a decision to make, 178 00:17:40,032 --> 00:17:43,203 because there will be a competition that you need to worry about 179 00:17:43,286 --> 00:17:47,709 or if you are going to surf the waves that really want, that the big bid. 180 00:17:49,712 --> 00:17:51,068 When are you leaving? 181 00:17:51,130 --> 00:17:54,468 I go out tomorrow night, probably, to Oahu, 182 00:17:54,552 --> 00:17:55,908 for the competition. 183 00:17:56,387 --> 00:18:00,017 I would like to go to Jaws, s to deferrujar. 184 00:18:01,019 --> 00:18:02,855 How do you account for everything here? 185 00:18:02,938 --> 00:18:03,938 So much. 186 00:18:03,940 --> 00:18:06,443 What you mean? You have two children. 187 00:18:06,735 --> 00:18:09,637 Yes, children will be easy after that deal with all these things. 188 00:18:10,741 --> 00:18:13,327 Competitions in the world circuit for about 11 years. 189 00:18:13,661 --> 00:18:16,332 When I was stopping, Ian was just beginning, 190 00:18:16,457 --> 00:18:18,251 trying to qualify to the circuit. 191 00:18:18,543 --> 00:18:20,587 And I said, "Dude, there's no one your age 192 00:18:20,671 --> 00:18:22,674 behind the bid of the great wave ". 193 00:18:22,924 --> 00:18:24,301 So I went to Ian and said, 194 00:18:24,384 --> 00:18:26,928 "Let's become partners who surf big waves together. " 195 00:18:26,929 --> 00:18:28,285 NOVEMBER 2007 196 00:18:28,390 --> 00:18:29,892 I think he made the right choice 197 00:18:29,975 --> 00:18:33,397 on surfing the big waves enough and yet be competitive 198 00:18:33,480 --> 00:18:34,836 events and everything. 199 00:18:36,943 --> 00:18:38,299 Any wave? 200 00:18:39,113 --> 00:18:40,490 It's blowing a lot. 201 00:18:40,949 --> 00:18:43,536 Dude, it's very uneven. 202 00:18:43,619 --> 00:18:45,413 See how big the second wave. 203 00:18:45,497 --> 00:18:49,335 It would be difficult to maintain the position, with all this turbulence. 204 00:18:49,836 --> 00:18:51,964 The sea was kind of weak and strange, 205 00:18:52,172 --> 00:18:53,668 the wind was totally wrong. 206 00:18:54,050 --> 00:18:55,406 What do you want to do? 207 00:18:55,427 --> 00:18:56,783 I think I'll get out. 208 00:18:57,221 --> 00:18:59,975 I'm going to stop in Kuau, get things and I'm going. 209 00:19:00,058 --> 00:19:01,414 We're very late. 210 00:19:03,438 --> 00:19:04,605 Have fun l . 211 00:19:04,606 --> 00:19:06,317 He decided to go to Honulua Bay, 212 00:19:06,400 --> 00:19:08,214 and I think he decided shoot with arrows. 213 00:19:31,101 --> 00:19:34,940 It really complicates things when you try and do what Ian does. 214 00:19:36,442 --> 00:19:39,279 He really focused on surfing giant waves in Jaws, 215 00:19:39,362 --> 00:19:41,908 and she's really in love for surfing in competitions. 216 00:19:42,074 --> 00:19:45,329 The waves are with a quarter of the size. 217 00:19:46,747 --> 00:19:48,707 So they will not see you again. attend the event? 218 00:19:48,709 --> 00:19:50,085 It's going well now. 219 00:19:51,045 --> 00:19:54,174 My battery changed from the third day for today, the second day, 220 00:19:54,258 --> 00:19:57,679 and this has become utter madness to get everything ready 221 00:19:57,763 --> 00:19:59,932 and pack up to go to Oahu. 222 00:20:00,308 --> 00:20:03,521 simply insane, all this season of competition. 223 00:20:03,646 --> 00:20:05,315 I try to help him whenever I can. 224 00:20:07,192 --> 00:20:11,740 He tries to balance both, which is not an easy task. 225 00:20:15,787 --> 00:20:17,143 Just before my battery, 226 00:20:17,248 --> 00:20:19,124 I was warming myself on some new boards. 227 00:20:19,125 --> 00:20:22,714 In the first wave, I climbed it and she literally broke. 228 00:20:23,757 --> 00:20:26,069 I thought, "This is ... Is this really happening? " 229 00:20:26,803 --> 00:20:28,722 - On a wave. "On a wave, like this?" 230 00:20:29,139 --> 00:20:31,350 I can only improve from this point. 231 00:20:34,271 --> 00:20:39,278 Welcome to HIC Pro 2015, a $ 100,000 event. 232 00:20:39,361 --> 00:20:41,865 Ian Walsh, ten years ago, winning this event, 233 00:20:41,990 --> 00:20:44,368 and of course, former finalist, 234 00:20:44,494 --> 00:20:47,790 going very well in the Triple Crown Vans of surfing, in the last year. 235 00:20:47,873 --> 00:20:50,821 If you know Ian, he's out. seeking the biggest wave in the world. 236 00:20:52,046 --> 00:20:55,634 Jack Robinson, 17 years old, a phenomenon in Australia. 237 00:20:56,093 --> 00:20:58,805 It will be a good wave punctuation for theft. 238 00:20:59,306 --> 00:21:02,185 Ian ... let's see. Red, Ian Walsh. 239 00:21:07,609 --> 00:21:11,239 Here we go. Jack Robinson in action, firing in front. 240 00:21:11,739 --> 00:21:15,453 Jack Robinson, in white, in first, Ian Walsh, in second. 241 00:21:16,120 --> 00:21:18,415 He is trying to improve on 5.67. 242 00:21:18,665 --> 00:21:20,022 Nice wave. 243 00:21:21,878 --> 00:21:23,589 And the alarm sounds. 244 00:21:23,714 --> 00:21:26,301 Ian Walsh, an excellent surfing experience. 245 00:21:26,426 --> 00:21:28,387 He ripped Robo out of the first place. 246 00:21:30,140 --> 00:21:32,935 Testing microphone. Yellow, leather. Red leather. 247 00:21:33,019 --> 00:21:34,437 Ian, nice to meet you. 248 00:21:35,689 --> 00:21:37,045 good to see more of Ian Walsh. 249 00:21:37,108 --> 00:21:38,468 "My parables, Ian. -Thank you. 250 00:21:38,568 --> 00:21:41,787 I'll say hello to the 4th grade class of my mother, who is watching, 251 00:21:41,822 --> 00:21:43,575 Pukalani School in Maui. 252 00:21:43,867 --> 00:21:45,911 Hello, Pukalani School! 253 00:21:45,995 --> 00:21:47,831 Ian was well taken care of. Uncle Ian detonated. 254 00:21:47,914 --> 00:21:49,081 With you guys. 255 00:21:49,082 --> 00:21:50,438 It's good to see you. -Right. 256 00:21:51,961 --> 00:21:56,718 And here we go, 23 minutes left for two more surfers to go to the final 257 00:21:56,801 --> 00:21:58,804 along with Kaito Kino and Billy Kemper. 258 00:21:59,138 --> 00:22:01,641 a takeoff in turbulent waters for Ian Walsh. 259 00:22:02,434 --> 00:22:05,981 Putting the level here for the semifinal number two. 260 00:22:06,648 --> 00:22:08,275 Surfing theft. 261 00:22:08,526 --> 00:22:10,362 Beautiful combined curve maneuver. 262 00:22:11,113 --> 00:22:12,698 Here we go, Ian Walsh. 263 00:22:13,324 --> 00:22:15,452 the famous Ian Walsh right there. 264 00:22:17,121 --> 00:22:19,207 Jack Robinson on the second wave. 265 00:22:22,420 --> 00:22:24,673 Well, that will solve it. the second semifinal. 266 00:22:24,756 --> 00:22:29,471 Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, advancing, in first and second, final 267 00:22:29,555 --> 00:22:31,975 to face Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino. 268 00:22:32,767 --> 00:22:35,271 And we're on our way to the final. 269 00:22:36,147 --> 00:22:37,566 -Ian Walsh. -Ian Walsh. 270 00:22:37,649 --> 00:22:40,570 A beautiful exit, slide in the curve to the top. 271 00:22:40,695 --> 00:22:43,616 An aggressive curve, down again, another turn, 272 00:22:43,699 --> 00:22:45,952 a little more aggressive, the second turn. 273 00:22:46,328 --> 00:22:50,750 My goodness, I could not wish a better start as a competitor. 274 00:22:55,048 --> 00:22:56,633 We got Billy coming out. 275 00:22:56,759 --> 00:22:58,428 Let's see the closing maneuver. 276 00:23:00,556 --> 00:23:04,895 And right behind him, Ian Walsh, quickly reaching that 9.93. 277 00:23:05,604 --> 00:23:08,316 With that chill, and he is in the lead. 278 00:23:11,153 --> 00:23:13,824 And it is simply a return of victory at this point. 279 00:23:13,991 --> 00:23:15,409 There are few people 280 00:23:15,493 --> 00:23:18,204 As good as he is in waves. small, and especially large, 281 00:23:18,205 --> 00:23:21,459 and proof of this their performance in Sunset Beach. 282 00:23:21,584 --> 00:23:23,378 Look at Ian Walsh, it is on fire. 283 00:23:23,379 --> 00:23:27,217 Billy Kemper, he stayed with 5.6 in this event ... 284 00:23:27,551 --> 00:23:31,431 You are one, now, twice champion of HIC Pro, 285 00:23:31,556 --> 00:23:34,269 2005 and now in 2015, 286 00:23:34,394 --> 00:23:36,313 of Maui, Ian Walsh! 287 00:23:44,449 --> 00:23:47,203 Back to the bike. right after that. 288 00:23:56,841 --> 00:23:58,197 Right. 289 00:23:58,510 --> 00:23:59,866 Winter has come. 290 00:24:02,307 --> 00:24:03,641 What a day. 291 00:24:03,642 --> 00:24:05,478 Damn it, I'm so excited! 292 00:24:08,190 --> 00:24:11,236 It's so good to win a tournament. 293 00:24:11,403 --> 00:24:14,198 Oh, my God, I'm so electric. 294 00:24:14,532 --> 00:24:19,080 But it's so good. So many times, I've been so close to achieving this. 295 00:24:27,550 --> 00:24:29,136 ... for Ian Walsh, 296 00:24:29,511 --> 00:24:31,556 and certainly for all children 297 00:24:31,764 --> 00:24:34,560 of his mother's class, at the Pukalani School ... 298 00:24:34,643 --> 00:24:35,999 EAST Airport Joint Base 299 00:24:41,653 --> 00:24:43,009 BOX OFFICE 300 00:24:47,911 --> 00:24:49,914 4:20 p.m. 301 00:24:53,169 --> 00:24:55,463 Good job. Parab ns. 302 00:24:55,964 --> 00:24:57,131 I had fun. 303 00:24:57,132 --> 00:24:58,634 I'm so excited. 304 00:25:09,316 --> 00:25:10,672 Thank you guys. 305 00:25:10,693 --> 00:25:13,613 Surely it would not have been possible without you all, folks, 306 00:25:13,697 --> 00:25:15,031 we are all one great unity, 307 00:25:15,032 --> 00:25:17,828 Therefore, Thank you and have fun tonight. 308 00:25:32,306 --> 00:25:34,016 I do not know about this year. 309 00:25:34,684 --> 00:25:37,677 Let's just pray that all right, for the safety of all, 310 00:25:37,855 --> 00:25:41,276 because everyone is anxious to continue. 311 00:25:43,196 --> 00:25:46,867 With the winter season with El Ni o arriving, 312 00:25:46,951 --> 00:25:51,165 there are faces that really Believe and want to surf 313 00:25:51,290 --> 00:25:53,543 in waves of 25 meters per year, 314 00:25:53,627 --> 00:25:57,090 and, the limit point, you know, the size of the wave that can surf, 315 00:25:57,799 --> 00:25:59,593 depends on the desire of each. 316 00:26:00,595 --> 00:26:02,430 It will always progress. 317 00:26:02,556 --> 00:26:04,642 For me, sit here and say: 318 00:26:04,850 --> 00:26:07,646 "No, in our generation, no one will get over it, " 319 00:26:07,896 --> 00:26:09,252 Stupidity. 320 00:26:10,358 --> 00:26:11,650 On the right day, 321 00:26:11,652 --> 00:26:13,528 with the right conditions, with the right security team. 322 00:26:13,529 --> 00:26:16,658 Probably see someone this year that would do the impossible. 323 00:26:18,619 --> 00:26:20,330 You can feel the tension in the air, 324 00:26:20,414 --> 00:26:24,044 but I can always understand how much fun they have. 325 00:26:24,252 --> 00:26:27,840 They prepare the day before, Wake up at daybreak ... 326 00:26:29,468 --> 00:26:32,806 JANUARY 4 327 00:26:32,889 --> 00:26:35,851 Prediction: 3.7m by 16.7 seconds Estimated Front Height: 14.5m 328 00:26:35,935 --> 00:26:39,106 The first high sea of ​​the year in Jaws It's always very exciting. 329 00:26:39,940 --> 00:26:42,842 Everyone is a little nervous and excited to see each other. 330 00:26:42,945 --> 00:26:45,657 It has that energy in the air that you can not reproduce. 331 00:26:46,199 --> 00:26:47,867 Almost as if we were entering 332 00:26:47,868 --> 00:26:50,287 in a gladiator battle every time we go there, 333 00:26:50,288 --> 00:26:52,499 Like, you do not know. what will happen 334 00:26:53,167 --> 00:26:54,209 AQUATIC SECURITY 335 00:26:54,210 --> 00:26:55,753 I was not in fact here this morning 336 00:26:55,754 --> 00:26:59,175 Then we slow everything down. instead of starting at six o'clock, 337 00:26:59,259 --> 00:27:02,972 we simply decided come back with things 338 00:27:03,055 --> 00:27:06,560 And let's not get tired of staying out here waiting for the waves. 339 00:27:07,812 --> 00:27:09,272 The winds come, 340 00:27:09,356 --> 00:27:12,025 but there is no wind now, the faster we get out of here 341 00:27:12,026 --> 00:27:13,382 the better it will be. 342 00:27:32,054 --> 00:27:36,101 The first thing you really feel the texture of the ocean. 343 00:27:36,685 --> 00:27:39,105 So you feel if there is wind or if the sea is agitated. 344 00:27:39,898 --> 00:27:42,777 There is a lot of refraction coming from the rocks. 345 00:27:43,736 --> 00:27:46,198 You feel the energy of the sea, 346 00:27:46,824 --> 00:27:49,912 and it's really when Things go right in the day. 347 00:27:50,078 --> 00:27:52,582 Ian is paddling. Ian is starting. 348 00:28:04,390 --> 00:28:05,599 It was a difficult one. 349 00:28:05,600 --> 00:28:07,144 It was very entertaining. 350 00:28:17,116 --> 00:28:18,743 Keep an eye out, here comes the sequence. 351 00:28:30,592 --> 00:28:32,595 Take the rope. Take the rope. 352 00:28:32,720 --> 00:28:34,076 All right? 353 00:28:36,309 --> 00:28:37,665 Right. or Greg. 354 00:28:42,859 --> 00:28:44,695 or Ian. 355 00:28:44,820 --> 00:28:46,448 Ian de p . 356 00:28:59,465 --> 00:29:01,635 I think I cut myself ugly. 357 00:29:01,844 --> 00:29:04,347 We're heading back to the boat. Ian cut his finger. 358 00:29:04,472 --> 00:29:05,828 Prepare the boat. 359 00:29:06,433 --> 00:29:07,975 -Do you think I can still surf? -Yes. 360 00:29:08,728 --> 00:29:10,272 Just wrap it around. Sew then. 361 00:29:10,606 --> 00:29:12,609 I had a small solution in the middle of the day. 362 00:29:12,692 --> 00:29:15,863 The back of the helm cut my finger 363 00:29:15,946 --> 00:29:17,574 practically to the bone. 364 00:29:17,699 --> 00:29:19,827 I made a quick bandage and returned to the sea, 365 00:29:19,910 --> 00:29:22,664 and I got another cool wave which was very unstable. 366 00:29:24,750 --> 00:29:26,383 I ended up taking a break to relax 367 00:29:26,503 --> 00:29:29,298 and the waves stayed strange soon after. 368 00:29:33,930 --> 00:29:36,922 That small dose of wind does the difference between day and night. 369 00:29:36,934 --> 00:29:39,896 See nothing and have salt water in the eyes ... 370 00:29:42,733 --> 00:29:44,861 Basically like jumped from a bridge 371 00:29:44,945 --> 00:29:46,697 without knowing what is down there. 372 00:29:50,703 --> 00:29:54,541 On a very good day in Jaws, You could go and get a wave. 373 00:29:54,625 --> 00:29:56,836 at seven, eight, nine o'clock. 374 00:29:59,590 --> 00:30:01,801 Finally we gathered the whole team, 375 00:30:01,885 --> 00:30:03,971 and I'll have my finger sewn tonight, 376 00:30:04,096 --> 00:30:07,809 make sure I did not break no tendencies or anything. 377 00:30:08,602 --> 00:30:12,357 I think it was a mean day today, but it was a good start. 378 00:30:13,317 --> 00:30:14,736 It's just the beginning. 379 00:30:17,114 --> 00:30:19,576 Stretch. Good. Close. 380 00:30:19,701 --> 00:30:20,701 Stretch. 381 00:30:20,702 --> 00:30:22,470 Good. Now go down. his hand completely. 382 00:30:23,039 --> 00:30:25,292 If there is a competition, a mari pica, 383 00:30:25,375 --> 00:30:27,544 And you need to surf tomorrow, I could protect him. 384 00:30:27,545 --> 00:30:30,257 It is better to stay out of the water for a few days. 385 00:30:30,382 --> 00:30:32,552 Yeah, I'm aiming for the 10th. 386 00:30:32,635 --> 00:30:35,514 -Right. -Then, 6 days would be my goal. 387 00:30:40,646 --> 00:30:43,609 The whole history of wave surfing giants very interesting. 388 00:30:44,026 --> 00:30:45,862 You know, these guys are pioneers. 389 00:30:46,070 --> 00:30:49,033 They will l without strings and without safety equipment. 390 00:30:49,700 --> 00:30:54,499 There has always been this idea that anything over ten meters 391 00:30:54,582 --> 00:30:57,211 it starts to get very dangerous for surfing, 392 00:30:57,294 --> 00:30:59,505 this impossible limit of size. 393 00:30:59,589 --> 00:31:03,052 And then there was the introduction of this type of surfing with trailer. 394 00:31:03,261 --> 00:31:05,301 Basically, you can climb on a board, 395 00:31:05,347 --> 00:31:07,115 could be placed in a great wave. 396 00:31:07,600 --> 00:31:10,896 It can surf ten or 15 waves of this type 397 00:31:10,980 --> 00:31:13,775 because you can position much more. 398 00:31:14,234 --> 00:31:16,820 You have a machine that can traveling at 65 kilometers per hour, 399 00:31:16,821 --> 00:31:19,742 and if it has a wave of 15 meters in that direction, go and get it. 400 00:31:22,370 --> 00:31:26,000 The guys would not surf all year, they would come to take the 15-meter ones. 401 00:31:26,084 --> 00:31:27,461 insane. 402 00:31:29,088 --> 00:31:31,883 You take any ordinary person to surfing paddling in Jaws, 403 00:31:32,301 --> 00:31:34,178 can not get a wave, and if caught, 404 00:31:34,262 --> 00:31:36,181 will be totally annihilated. 405 00:31:46,904 --> 00:31:52,203 The revolution of towing surf in the showed that it was possible to survive 406 00:31:52,286 --> 00:31:54,748 to much larger waves than we imagined. 407 00:32:01,340 --> 00:32:03,427 The tow surfing helped establish 408 00:32:03,635 --> 00:32:06,431 the jet ski as a security tool 409 00:32:06,514 --> 00:32:08,517 and for everything you do in the ocean. 410 00:32:10,269 --> 00:32:16,027 It was really the step for the next one. evolution of giant wave surfing. 411 00:32:17,279 --> 00:32:20,033 I used to compete paddling with the boards, 412 00:32:20,116 --> 00:32:22,453 and had the idea that I could do 413 00:32:22,661 --> 00:32:24,456 these boards be faster. 414 00:32:25,666 --> 00:32:30,255 That's when Ian, Greg and some other guys 415 00:32:30,380 --> 00:32:32,216 they began to row these things. 416 00:32:34,261 --> 00:32:37,515 We make this conscious decision to stop with the trailer surfing 417 00:32:37,724 --> 00:32:39,268 and return to rowing. 418 00:32:44,900 --> 00:32:48,030 All the speed at which the wave travels when it reaches 15 meters 419 00:32:48,113 --> 00:32:51,618 Too fast for drawing standard board Everything needs to change. 420 00:32:53,203 --> 00:32:54,881 Are they ready? I'm not sure. 421 00:32:54,956 --> 00:32:57,751 No one has done this before, then no one knows. 422 00:32:59,462 --> 00:33:02,758 Chris Christenson, he has the details 423 00:33:02,842 --> 00:33:05,804 I do not think any other plank designer has. 424 00:33:06,555 --> 00:33:10,185 So I plan to find something Give us a little more 425 00:33:10,269 --> 00:33:11,979 and that every time I get sick, 426 00:33:12,063 --> 00:33:14,733 or because I went down the wave too fast. 427 00:33:14,816 --> 00:33:16,568 After every big mar that he surfs, 428 00:33:16,569 --> 00:33:18,518 we talked to each other, shortly thereafter. 429 00:33:18,572 --> 00:33:20,866 Have this trail more parallel up there 430 00:33:20,950 --> 00:33:23,307 will allow plank to work better at the base of the wave, 431 00:33:23,328 --> 00:33:26,541 we will allow you to paddle faster with shoulders farther apart 432 00:33:26,624 --> 00:33:29,795 and have a larger syrup, will give you more maneuverability. 433 00:33:33,050 --> 00:33:36,388 If they can trust me before entering the water, 434 00:33:36,471 --> 00:33:38,849 this leaves them at an advantage in the game. 435 00:33:45,150 --> 00:33:47,695 JANUARY, 10 436 00:33:49,197 --> 00:33:50,948 Preview 3.9m in 14.7 seconds Estimated Front Height: 13m 437 00:33:50,949 --> 00:33:52,660 The forecast looks very good, 438 00:33:52,785 --> 00:33:54,413 probably the best of the year. 439 00:33:54,538 --> 00:33:56,456 Do you think it's the size What are Ian looking for? 440 00:33:56,457 --> 00:33:59,252 No, Ian is looking for for as long as possible. 441 00:34:01,130 --> 00:34:03,884 It just ... looks like the sea is not here yet 442 00:34:04,009 --> 00:34:07,347 I do not know, markers simply they are not obvious. 443 00:34:07,806 --> 00:34:10,935 I think we're just going to start now and continue with our plan 444 00:34:11,019 --> 00:34:12,375 and go to l at first light, 445 00:34:12,396 --> 00:34:14,607 hoping it gets better throughout the morning. 446 00:34:21,617 --> 00:34:23,744 The best conditions till now. 447 00:34:27,166 --> 00:34:30,128 The fact of the forecast we have indicated light winds 448 00:34:30,212 --> 00:34:33,508 aroused much more interest of surfers around the world. 449 00:34:46,734 --> 00:34:49,238 Concentration of people in the morning was lighter, 450 00:34:49,363 --> 00:34:52,409 so you could stand and begin to line up with the waves 451 00:34:52,492 --> 00:34:55,246 any way he wanted, where he wanted to pick them up. 452 00:35:05,176 --> 00:35:08,932 I think the board of a guy passed well above me at the end of the tube. 453 00:35:20,030 --> 00:35:22,283 And so, according to more people arrive, 454 00:35:22,367 --> 00:35:24,286 the place you take it the waves dictation, 455 00:35:24,495 --> 00:35:26,289 based on where he's stuck in the crowd. 456 00:35:29,126 --> 00:35:32,171 You know, when you're turning around, trying to paddle for a giant wave, 457 00:35:32,172 --> 00:35:34,258 and you have people on your left, and on the right, 458 00:35:34,295 --> 00:35:35,467 positioning itself, calling ... 459 00:35:35,468 --> 00:35:37,970 The press is there. H helicopters flying everywhere, 460 00:35:37,972 --> 00:35:40,350 drones buzzing in your head, 461 00:35:40,433 --> 00:35:43,396 boats passing one upon the other, It's just chaos. 462 00:35:45,231 --> 00:35:47,109 I surfed in Jaws for 15 years, 463 00:35:47,193 --> 00:35:49,779 and I will not go there anymore because it's just a crazy zone. 464 00:35:49,905 --> 00:35:51,490 It's not fun, it's very dangerous. 465 00:35:52,700 --> 00:35:55,511 The last thing I want to do To hurt someone with the board. 466 00:35:58,208 --> 00:36:00,419 When you make mistakes. 467 00:36:00,502 --> 00:36:04,007 You know, you're surfing accordingly. with the crowd, not with what he wants. 468 00:36:12,227 --> 00:36:15,440 When you have 50 people l , I definitely do not feel comfortable 469 00:36:15,523 --> 00:36:17,776 Ian, on the other hand, It seems to go well. 470 00:37:12,810 --> 00:37:15,022 Let's get a second wave. 471 00:37:45,814 --> 00:37:50,028 To stay with my brother in the water in Jaws It's something I can not even explain. 472 00:37:50,821 --> 00:37:53,157 probably one of the moments more special. 473 00:37:53,366 --> 00:37:56,245 There is nothing that we can not be, It is the best feeling in the world. 474 00:37:56,871 --> 00:38:00,250 On most days, we take turns, making the security of each other, 475 00:38:00,376 --> 00:38:02,587 and this gives us all a chance to surf. 476 00:38:33,796 --> 00:38:37,134 Only three or four very good sequences came today, 477 00:38:37,218 --> 00:38:39,513 in a period of eight to ten hours. 478 00:38:40,723 --> 00:38:43,268 The climate and all things are here, but the sea. 479 00:38:43,935 --> 00:38:45,354 The waves are very small. 480 00:38:45,646 --> 00:38:48,275 I will be impressed if they really hit it. 481 00:38:54,533 --> 00:38:57,496 A great contribution for evolution 482 00:38:57,704 --> 00:38:59,498 of the sport, in fact, the security. 483 00:38:59,999 --> 00:39:03,546 And the most notable is the inflatable clothing. that we have developed. 484 00:39:03,629 --> 00:39:05,966 I had the idea of inflatable bathing suit 485 00:39:06,049 --> 00:39:08,134 for an experiment of near death in the Mavericks. 486 00:39:08,135 --> 00:39:12,349 December 2010 487 00:39:14,311 --> 00:39:17,023 I was getting old, He was married, having children, 488 00:39:17,231 --> 00:39:19,952 I just felt it was too dangerous to be worth it. 489 00:39:20,986 --> 00:39:24,742 It was something that was necessary, because the sport has reached a level 490 00:39:24,825 --> 00:39:26,953 in which we were losing people. 491 00:39:27,036 --> 00:39:28,914 You know, that was not acceptable. 492 00:39:31,209 --> 00:39:33,420 When you fall, you pull a rope, 493 00:39:33,504 --> 00:39:36,257 the costume inflates and takes you to the surface. 494 00:39:36,883 --> 00:39:38,092 You will not think: 495 00:39:38,093 --> 00:39:39,970 "You know what? I'm sure. because I have the suit. " 496 00:39:39,971 --> 00:39:41,807 You do not want to have that attitude. 497 00:39:43,267 --> 00:39:46,061 What happens when you are in a situation where your dress is active? 498 00:39:46,062 --> 00:39:48,190 Or in a situation in which his costume does not activate? 499 00:39:50,068 --> 00:39:51,487 So, because of the suit, 500 00:39:51,737 --> 00:39:56,035 You have many more people than you. they would be there if it were not for him. 501 00:39:56,535 --> 00:40:00,499 People, in certain places, they became uncontrollable, therefore. 502 00:40:00,666 --> 00:40:02,251 This is the paradox, of course. 503 00:40:12,307 --> 00:40:15,269 It saved lives, but in a way, 504 00:40:15,353 --> 00:40:17,606 I feel it put at risk lives of people 505 00:40:17,689 --> 00:40:20,109 that they would not be there, without the suit. 506 00:40:22,738 --> 00:40:25,116 Are you going surfing in? Any place in the world, 507 00:40:25,200 --> 00:40:27,285 must have a safety plan and a second reservation, 508 00:40:27,286 --> 00:40:28,646 and another plan after that. 509 00:40:29,622 --> 00:40:32,835 Most people think that the suit is the safety plan. 510 00:40:33,044 --> 00:40:36,090 And they assume that the I will rescue them. 511 00:40:38,927 --> 00:40:41,639 Certainly it was morally difficult not start, 512 00:40:41,722 --> 00:40:43,309 when it began to get very full. 513 00:40:44,476 --> 00:40:46,521 I could never live knowing 514 00:40:46,604 --> 00:40:48,898 What was I supposed to be? l working with this group, 515 00:40:48,899 --> 00:40:50,443 which I consider my family, 516 00:40:50,526 --> 00:40:54,156 and that something happened because I was not taking care of them, 517 00:40:54,281 --> 00:40:55,950 I was taking care of someone else 518 00:40:56,034 --> 00:40:58,074 that had nothing to do with our operation. 519 00:40:59,747 --> 00:41:02,500 I do not think it's the right of somebody say what can or can not, 520 00:41:02,501 --> 00:41:07,383 but when you cross that line of not following the safety protocol, 521 00:41:07,466 --> 00:41:09,461 how to be able to care first of all, 522 00:41:09,636 --> 00:41:11,177 You kind of crossed the line. 523 00:41:11,179 --> 00:41:14,184 and need to rethink about what he's doing there. 524 00:41:15,894 --> 00:41:18,231 If you look at the inflatable costume, 525 00:41:18,606 --> 00:41:22,445 yes, it's a nightmare, on certain days, in certain waves ... 526 00:41:23,363 --> 00:41:27,619 but the sport simply became incredible because of it. 527 00:41:38,175 --> 00:41:41,680 In the fifteenth, we had a sea which was expected to be 528 00:41:41,763 --> 00:41:44,349 bigger than anything which we had all winter, 529 00:41:44,350 --> 00:41:45,936 maybe in my life. 530 00:41:47,688 --> 00:41:52,278 So, you're lining up to be a monumental day for the paddled surf. 531 00:41:52,361 --> 00:41:56,325 Prediction 5.5m in 18.2 seconds Estimated Frontal Height: 22.5m 532 00:41:56,617 --> 00:41:57,994 Beautiful setting. 533 00:41:58,077 --> 00:42:01,081 15th of January 534 00:42:01,415 --> 00:42:03,752 Bring towing boards was part of the discussion, 535 00:42:03,835 --> 00:42:07,966 but I'm stubbornly trying to row. 536 00:42:08,049 --> 00:42:09,926 I think we are all a little scared, 537 00:42:09,927 --> 00:42:13,181 it's kind of worried with how great it will be today, 538 00:42:13,265 --> 00:42:15,622 but we hope it is, in some way, controllable. 539 00:42:18,856 --> 00:42:20,533 In fact, I'm very nervous now 540 00:42:20,608 --> 00:42:21,964 for having to surf there. 541 00:42:21,985 --> 00:42:24,363 I do not know, I have this strange feeling. 542 00:42:25,699 --> 00:42:28,494 Certainly shaken. No one day to show feelings ... 543 00:42:29,829 --> 00:42:31,688 I'm a little out of control, certainly. 544 00:42:32,374 --> 00:42:34,335 Greg was basically sick all the time. 545 00:42:34,461 --> 00:42:37,423 He could not surf. Therefore, Greg ended up doing the security. 546 00:42:38,341 --> 00:42:41,178 It's very difficult to do well. on a day like this. 547 00:42:41,429 --> 00:42:44,975 You know how much you waited for a day like this, 548 00:42:45,058 --> 00:42:46,415 to get surf. 549 00:42:48,355 --> 00:42:52,193 Everything we look for, dropping big waves, 550 00:42:52,277 --> 00:42:53,682 was pointing to this day. 551 00:42:56,449 --> 00:42:59,495 I had never seen Jaws burst that way in my life. 552 00:43:00,413 --> 00:43:02,082 Two hours, we're leaving. 553 00:43:02,916 --> 00:43:04,272 Watch. 554 00:43:14,891 --> 00:43:19,439 As if you were rehearsing to get the rhythm, 555 00:43:19,523 --> 00:43:21,943 because the wave moves very fast 556 00:43:22,026 --> 00:43:24,446 and there is a lot of water hitting his face. 557 00:43:25,865 --> 00:43:29,453 A perfect example of: "Be careful what you want". 558 00:43:47,311 --> 00:43:48,667 Heating! 559 00:44:22,234 --> 00:44:23,590 Shane, come on up! 560 00:44:23,611 --> 00:44:24,967 Shane. 561 00:44:25,530 --> 00:44:29,160 Yes, Shane. It was amazing. 562 00:45:57,782 --> 00:45:59,576 You caught an incredible wave, did not you? 563 00:46:01,745 --> 00:46:04,750 It just felt as if the ocean was under control. 564 00:46:07,545 --> 00:46:09,338 It was not like a normal day, where you can 565 00:46:09,339 --> 00:46:11,634 have fun, like, everyone was ... 566 00:46:33,706 --> 00:46:34,998 Come on, come on. 567 00:46:35,000 --> 00:46:36,208 Come on, come on. 568 00:46:36,210 --> 00:46:37,566 Are you okay? -My neck. 569 00:46:37,670 --> 00:46:39,026 "What?" -My neck. 570 00:46:39,714 --> 00:46:41,070 Here Shaun Walsh. 571 00:46:41,383 --> 00:46:43,469 DK has a possible injury in the cervical area. 572 00:46:44,679 --> 00:46:46,901 I'm tingling a lot and my neck is sore. 573 00:46:47,892 --> 00:46:49,269 Take me with Shaun. 574 00:46:52,524 --> 00:46:54,818 I could look into everyone's eyes, 575 00:46:54,902 --> 00:46:58,323 and say, "My God, that was what happened in Cortes ". 576 00:46:58,866 --> 00:47:01,286 It was the reverse situation. 577 00:47:01,745 --> 00:47:03,513 DK was l , he saved Greg's life, 578 00:47:03,706 --> 00:47:05,500 and now, Greg is doing what he can. 579 00:47:07,878 --> 00:47:09,421 It was just kind of surreal. 580 00:47:09,422 --> 00:47:11,550 Like, my heart sank, you know? 581 00:47:11,675 --> 00:47:14,305 I did not know how serious it was, or what was happening. 582 00:47:15,472 --> 00:47:17,475 DK, do you want to call the emergency? 583 00:47:17,558 --> 00:47:19,060 I need an ambulance. 584 00:47:19,269 --> 00:47:20,625 Do not call Mom. 585 00:47:22,189 --> 00:47:25,569 No matter how good the waves are, This is the priority, it does not matter. 586 00:47:25,819 --> 00:47:27,822 We took it with great security. 587 00:47:28,156 --> 00:47:32,412 The goal is to simply take it to a higher level of care. 588 00:47:32,871 --> 00:47:35,750 When it happens, There is not much we can do. 589 00:47:36,209 --> 00:47:38,629 Shaun, he and Luke, everybody trying to go with me, 590 00:47:38,712 --> 00:47:41,614 but looking at how good the waves were, wanted them to stay. 591 00:47:41,633 --> 00:47:44,178 Once in life the conditions of the sea stay like this. 592 00:47:49,936 --> 00:47:52,523 We stayed out and this has turned into 593 00:47:52,731 --> 00:47:55,527 a very important day of my life. 594 00:48:35,123 --> 00:48:37,835 I just took a wave in the face. 595 00:48:37,918 --> 00:48:40,338 and I got no advantage for a while. 596 00:48:57,737 --> 00:48:59,323 I saw him enter this wave, 597 00:48:59,406 --> 00:49:02,217 and well when I saw him stand by, I thought, "He's in too much." 598 00:49:02,285 --> 00:49:06,207 And, you know, when you're there, Sometimes you have to take the risk. 599 00:49:34,288 --> 00:49:37,375 And he was from p all the time in which the wave descended. 600 00:49:37,500 --> 00:49:39,086 I thought he was going to jump. 601 00:50:19,767 --> 00:50:22,186 You know what happened, and some of the surfer here today, 602 00:50:22,187 --> 00:50:24,398 You know, history was made, certainly. 603 00:50:25,942 --> 00:50:29,405 Yes, today was amazing, but as soon as I caught that wave, 604 00:50:29,530 --> 00:50:32,326 reality hit and all that I could think, it was in DK. 605 00:50:51,477 --> 00:50:53,939 Nothing was broken, nothing fractured. 606 00:50:54,022 --> 00:50:56,359 All exams and resonances were good. 607 00:50:56,985 --> 00:50:59,822 Now, for the next one, I have to wear this cervical collar, 608 00:51:00,990 --> 00:51:05,914 It's kind of a lie for a while. and wait for my body to recover. 609 00:51:11,713 --> 00:51:13,966 It has been an intense January. 610 00:51:14,467 --> 00:51:19,182 A week ago, we had one of the biggest days I've ever seen 611 00:51:19,265 --> 00:51:22,019 with clean winds, in my whole life here. 612 00:51:22,436 --> 00:51:25,983 I just felt that I never we will see all that 613 00:51:26,066 --> 00:51:27,422 happen again, 614 00:51:27,443 --> 00:51:30,280 until we get really old, cheering on a cliff. 615 00:51:31,365 --> 00:51:35,329 And so, a great system appeared in the middle of the Pacific, 616 00:51:35,412 --> 00:51:37,123 and here we are. 617 00:51:37,207 --> 00:51:38,667 JANUARY 28 618 00:51:39,168 --> 00:51:40,502 4.5m forecast in 20 seconds Estimated Front Height: 20m 619 00:51:40,503 --> 00:51:43,215 Just have another chance with conditions like this 620 00:51:43,298 --> 00:51:49,098 ... kind of made me take a step behind and to value a little more 621 00:51:49,181 --> 00:51:51,142 by the seas we are having now. 622 00:51:53,354 --> 00:51:56,346 I thought my winter had finished after leaving the hospital, 623 00:51:56,358 --> 00:51:58,611 Then I was discharged of doctors in Los Angeles. 624 00:51:58,694 --> 00:52:00,281 He said that everything was in place. 625 00:52:00,405 --> 00:52:03,409 I'm very grateful. I never thought that this would happen. 626 00:52:05,287 --> 00:52:09,209 And it was horrible for him not to be able to surf, but he , without any doubts, 627 00:52:09,292 --> 00:52:11,587 the best face on the jet ski, doing the security. 628 00:52:11,712 --> 00:52:15,509 So I think of everything, the group feels much more comfortable and confident, 629 00:52:15,593 --> 00:52:17,178 just by having it in the water. 630 00:52:17,470 --> 00:52:19,223 Right, it's Greg. 631 00:52:36,580 --> 00:52:38,802 Pay attention to Greg, boys. Pay attention. 632 00:52:38,833 --> 00:52:40,189 I caught him. 633 00:52:41,420 --> 00:52:42,776 Vit ria. 634 00:52:43,381 --> 00:52:47,428 In this sport, you will definitely wants to see his friends do well. 635 00:52:47,553 --> 00:52:49,681 For Greg, he caught a wave A few years ago ... 636 00:52:49,765 --> 00:52:50,723 October 2012 637 00:52:50,724 --> 00:52:53,395 ... which was the best tube I already got Jaws. 638 00:52:58,443 --> 00:53:02,449 And as he crossed, he fell, flying out of the tube. 639 00:53:06,871 --> 00:53:09,750 He called it a trip. on the finish line. 640 00:53:11,837 --> 00:53:13,881 You simply see how much time and energy 641 00:53:13,965 --> 00:53:16,593 goes in each of these waves they are surfing 642 00:53:16,718 --> 00:53:20,140 and how long does it take to get a day like this, 643 00:53:20,348 --> 00:53:23,937 and it was really cool to see everything working for Greg today. 644 00:53:42,212 --> 00:53:45,842 He took a tube and left. You could almost see 645 00:53:45,967 --> 00:53:49,597 all energy and work who were employed in that wave, 646 00:53:49,680 --> 00:53:51,099 kind, coming out of it. 647 00:53:51,266 --> 00:53:52,622 Good, Greg! 648 00:53:54,562 --> 00:53:56,982 We have Dorian surfing. 649 00:54:32,656 --> 00:54:34,408 Part of what Jaws , type, 650 00:54:34,659 --> 00:54:37,246 You surf for six hours, 651 00:54:37,454 --> 00:54:40,250 you can have only one good opportunity on a wave. 652 00:54:58,316 --> 00:55:03,281 About four hours later, I got one of the best waves I've had. 653 00:56:09,664 --> 00:56:11,542 Everything finally fell into place. 654 00:56:11,751 --> 00:56:16,257 Instead of focusing on the goal to surf the biggest wave of his life, 655 00:56:16,632 --> 00:56:18,802 it is more about giving one step back 656 00:56:18,885 --> 00:56:20,679 and enjoy all the little things 657 00:56:20,888 --> 00:56:22,682 who took you there, and live these days. 658 00:56:24,935 --> 00:56:27,314 The last El Ni o was in 1998. 659 00:56:27,856 --> 00:56:30,568 There were only four El Ni os for real, in 40 years. 660 00:56:31,361 --> 00:56:33,280 The best big waves I've ever seen. 661 00:56:33,405 --> 00:56:36,201 I have surfed big waves It's 25 years. 662 00:56:39,497 --> 00:56:43,669 Ian chose a path that really serves it. 663 00:56:43,878 --> 00:56:47,675 I'm just blessed as a father. 664 00:56:54,559 --> 00:56:59,232 Part of surfing simply Look at what comes next. 665 00:57:01,235 --> 00:57:02,591 It's true what they say. 666 00:57:02,654 --> 00:57:05,950 The greater the adversity, the greater the conquest. 667 00:57:06,284 --> 00:57:09,622 And for me, it does not matter the size of the waves, 668 00:57:09,789 --> 00:57:11,624 or stepping into the unknown, 669 00:57:12,000 --> 00:57:13,356 Where do I want to be? 53221

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