Original subtitles

We use Blender, an animation program, as a drawing program on our 3D printers.

In my previous videos, I explained a bit about how the program works.

And I showed you how to install the necessary plugins and where you can download them.

In this video, we will create our first drawing using the CadSketcher program.

Since this is my first video about drawing, I'll explain how the plugin works in a bit more detail.

I wanted this video to be a slightly simpler project.

I have an LED lamp like this. I want to attach this LED lamp to my camera arm.

We will draw the divider.

The first step of the project will be scaling.

You can also obtain an inexpensive caliper for this measurement process.

Digital plastic calipers can be found online at reasonable prices.

These calipers allow you to easily measure both intermediate points and depths.

I'm going to make a connector so that the phone holder on the LED lamp fits onto the camera arm.

This is seventy-four millimeters.

My camera arm has a diameter of twenty-four millimeters.

This will be twenty millimeters.

The point where it will be squeezed is ten millimeters.

Now I need to do a little drawing.

To minimize potential errors.

This drawing doesn't have to be very beautiful.

All we need to do is determine what the shape in our minds will look like.

Before we begin our drawing, let me show you what the CadSketcher plugin looks like.

In the left-hand panel, the lower section of this icon belongs to the CadSketcher plugin, and in the right-hand windows, the Sketcher tab also belongs to CadSketcher.

On the left side, we have four drawing tools: straight line, circle, curve, and square.

On the right side, you'll find sections containing our rules, such as length, distance, diameter, connection, equality, tangent, and determining the midpoint.

First, we need to choose which direction and perspective we will start drawing from by pressing CTRL-SHIFT-A.

This is the right-hand view, this is the front view, and this is the bird's-eye view, or top-down view.

We are looking at the top view.

we will choose and our camera image

We're converting it to a top-down view.

The screen is now two-dimensional.

Let me try to balance this a bit.

This is where our central hub is located.

This place, which is like an apartment,

This belongs to the Blender program.

You can do this by shifting the key and right-clicking.

We can throw it a little further away.

This is our central point.

We will always base our reference on our central point.

Let's start with a straight line.

This will be seventy-four millimeters.

Here you can hover your mouse over it if you want.

You can click on it or use the shortcut key L.

Because I selected the center point, it automatically started my line from there.

We can release this by right-clicking and drawing a straight line.

It doesn't need to get to this point, to get this close.

We'll center this now.

Right-click and release your line again.

I right-click again, and the icon on the left changes to plain option mode.

I select the line, press Shift, select the point, and center it by pressing ShiftM.

Here you can use a shortcut if you prefer, or you can click on the Midpoint section on the right.

He created his symbol here as well.

The symbol next to it is the Horizontal symbol. So, Horizontal here means a horizontal line.

This means the line is a straight line.

Now I will specify its length.

I choose our line.

You can press Distance on the right side if you want.

Alternatively, we can use the first shortcut, Alt D.

I'm pressing Alt D, which is the shortcut for Distance.

And it immediately brings up an object that I can drag down. When I click on the number I want, I can specify its length.

This would be seventy-four millimeters.

I press Enter and my line immediately extends.

Let me zoom in on my screen a bit using the middle mouse wheel.

So I'll shrink the screen.

We need to draw two lines, one on each side, about ten millimeters wide.

Alternatively, you can do it from the left side using the mouse.

Or, when you press the L shortcut, it automatically switches to dash mode.

If you want to continue from a previous point, you move the mouse closer to this point.

And this spot turns red or changes color.

If you click and drag the mouse upwards here, your line will appear.

Now, you don't need to do it straight.

It is sufficient for the vertical symbol shown here, to appear.

The system will automatically turn it into a straight line.

So if I stop at this point, my line will be crooked.

I'm moving it a little to the right.

If I stop at this point, I'll get a straight line.

I left it and it became a straight line.

And next to it was a symbol that said "Vertical," meaning vertical.

It stays in the same line mode. If I right-click once, it returns to selection mode.

When the dot turns red, I throw it upwards. I also slightly tilt it to the right.

But it corrected itself automatically when I let go. I right-click to remove the line and then right-click again.

It has entered selection mode in this way.

These two lines will be equal.

Here I will use "Equal," which literally means "equal" in English.

There's also an equals sign next to it.

To make the lines equal, select them and then press Equal.

Alternatively, you can press the shortcut Shift + E.

We are choosing a path.

When choosing our second line, I hold down Shift to select it.

And they're both fried.

I press Shift + E and equals signs appear next to them.

What does this mean?

Our two lines are of equal length.

When I hover the mouse over this equals symbol, the system also shows us which line it's connected to.

Our distance here is ten millimeters.

You can also specify the distance using the Alt+D key.

Our symbol appears on the screen.

You step on it when it turns red.

When we manually typed "ten" in the Distance section and pressed Enter, it also changed the length of the line to ten millimeters.

In the drawing I just made, there were supposed to be two circles here.

If you prefer, you can also use the letter C (Circle), which is the English shortcut for circle, from the left side.

Or you can click here.

I'm pressing C.

My plugin automatically switched to circle mode.

It needs to be centered right here.

Let's bring this down a bit.

It didn't happen.

Let's bring this down a bit.

Let's have a nicer picture.

I'll send this down as well.

Shift + right-click.

I don't want it to damage my screen.

I pressed C.

Circle mode is back again.

I don't need to center it perfectly right now.

We'll find the exact center of this using the system's shortcut.

I'm drawing my first circle here.

When I press down on my second circle so that it has the same center point,

It makes it seem as if there is only one point.

I ended up with two hoops.

I right-click and set it to normal.

Now I need to average this.

What did we use to calculate the average just now?

We used Midpoint.

I want them to be on the same vertical line.

So we'll be using Vertical here.

So we'll use the Shift V shortcut.

I choose the point on this circle.

And I select our center point at the bottom by holding down Shift.

When I pressed Shift+V, both circles appeared on the same vertical line.

I can move it up and down, but I can't move it left or right.

Because the rule here is that these two circles must lie on the same vertical line.

I created a rule here in the form of a central point.

I need to specify the diameter of the circle.

When specifying the diameter of a circle, I use the Alt+O key, and it directly shows us the diameter of the circle.

You can adjust it to whatever point you want.

You can take the picture from anywhere, as long as it doesn't interfere with your drawing.

I'm pressing down on the number.

I'm changing the place where it says "You" to twenty-four.

And the diameter of the circle automatically became twenty-four millimeters.

If you want to create a radius, we'll use Radial this time.

You need to use the Alt+R shortcut.

This time it was Radial.

The system is warning us because I've placed two magnitude numbers on the same circle.

You cannot add two length points to the same circle.

Here, our length section is shown in green, while this section appears in red.

Let me remind you of something here as well.

Here, we received a warning message indicating that we had made a system error.

This means there is a systemic error here.

Unfortunately, the plugin isn't that advanced and doesn't tell us what the error is, it just gives a general warning.

Here, however, we can also see systematically what our mistake is on the drawing.

I'm going to delete the Radial, which is the radius.

I press Delete Entity.

We couldn't delete it.

I can delete it like this.

I wanted to delete Vertikal.

If I do this,... yes, it's deleted now.

It has now turned green.

And the system says, "You haven't specified the lengths for two of our lines yet." It gives an error message.

This doesn't actually mean there's a mistake; it means we've incompleted the process.

But the error message here isn't very important right now.

As we near the end of our drawing, this error message will become a little more important.

At the same time, where I've indicated the length of the circle's circumference, I left-click on the number I've specified for the diameter.

When I click "Use Radius," it will reduce the unit of measurement to the radius.

Let's try it. "Use Radius"... it automatically reverted to a single line, and Radial became twelve.

So its radius became twelve millimeters.

I'll leave it as the standard diameter so it'll be easier for me to do my calculations.

What will be the diameter of the second circle?

I want there to be a difference of four millimeters between the center circle and the right side.

So, let's say there's a piece four millimeters long on the right.

Do the same from the left as well.

Therefore, four plus four equals eight, plus twenty-four more, thirty-two.

I'll record this with the bottom O,... like this, and reduce it to thirty-two.

We also made this area thirty-two millimeters thick.

Now it's time to calculate the opening here.

When attaching the part to the camera arm, I want it to flex by one millimeter on each side.

The letter L is used as a shortcut.

I'll draw a line here.

Once it turns red, I can draw a straight line here.

And I'll pull over to the right.

The system indicated to me with a symbol that it was flat.

If I press it now, the system will automatically draw a straight line in between.

Why am I the only one who will use this line?

I don't want him to interfere with the shape of my object.

I just want there to be a benchmark that I can use as a reference point.

You can also do this by right-clicking on the line,

When I clicked on Construction, this line turned into a dashed line.

So this won't affect my schema.

It will simply be a benchmark for me.

I'm marking this.

I will specify the length with the bottom D.

I want it to be twenty-two.

Because I want it to be narrow enough to stretch by one millimeter on each side.

That makes twenty-two.

Since this line is a straight line, it attaches to the circle at the points where the line measures twenty-two millimeters.

For example, when I increase this value, the line goes down.

But if I shorten it, the line will go upwards.

At this point, we don't need to make any adjustments.

When we enter twenty-two millimeters, it attaches to the point on the circle where the distance between the two points is twenty-two millimeters.

We have two more symbols here.

"Coincident".

So, this plus sign here.

What does this mean?

This line of ours is attached to this circle.

There is only one point missing from the circle.

Only one of them has a dot.

It shows that he's holding onto the hoop.

We will be using a new vehicle.

This is the scissor feature.

The scissors feature is also represented by a scissors symbol in the bottom left corner.

The shortcut is the letter Y.

I'm pressing the Y key.

When I hover my mouse over the top of this circle and click, it will cut the space between the two points.

I performed the cutting operation.

Look, the plus sign has disappeared at the connection points.

So, this means my dashed line has now become a straight line with the circle.

This is an important detail when converting it to an object.

I'll tell you that too if I get the chance.

I'm right-clicking to fix it again.

With the shortcut letter L,

I'll draw a line upwards from here.

Here, after it turns red, I'm drawing upwards.

We released it again in the same way.

I'll draw a line upwards from here as well.

And from here, I'll draw a line upwards from each point.

The vehicle I'm going to use now is a curved vehicle.

Let me zoom in a bit.

Here we can draw a curve using the letter "Arc," which is a shortened form of the letter A.

I'm pressing the key A.

Here, we need to determine our center point as if we were drawing a circle on the same map.

And I bring the mouse to where it needs to start and begin drawing.

And when I click the mouse again, I'm finishing my drawing here.

I will do the same thing here as well.

I'm defining our central point.

I bring the mouse to where it will start.

And I'm leaving the radius at this point.

I'm right-clicking to revert it back to normal.

I need to connect these two points here.

Most likely, if I had placed these two points next to each other, they wouldn't have connected.

And there would be an error in the drawing.

I choose this point to connect these two points.

I press the Shift key and select this point.

I can click on Coincident again if I want,

Or I'll press Shift + C.

And these two points connect here.

I'll do the same thing here.

Because I want our drawing to be a whole.

Otherwise, I would have made a faulty drawing.

This time I'll use the scissors again, and I'll cut out this section of the circle.

I'm pressing the Y shortcut key.

I clicked here once.

The system automatically connected these two points.

Because this was our first line.

I clicked here too, and it deleted it.

I'm clicking here too,

I pressed it, and it destroyed this place too.

I right-click to bring it back to normal.

The only problem that arose here was this:

This is a point of convergence.

Even,...

the mouse...

When I brought it,

My first dot appears as a faint red.

In this way,...

I don't want a connection here.

Because this place,

I want it to be a single point.

There would be a mistake after finishing the drawing.

Most likely, they wouldn't even fill it.

Therefore, I'm deleting this "Coincident" by right-clicking.

I click Delete again.

I click Delete. I click Delete again.

And now it's gone. We can also see that there were two lines.

Please pay attention to this to avoid such a mistake.

If there is a dot and this "Coincident" symbol is in between,

There are two points there, and I don't want that kind of mistake to happen. I need to proceed in this way.

I select the two points again and merge them with the Shift C key. And now we have a point here.

When I point with the mouse, I see a deep red, not a faint red.

So it doesn't show us the bottom point as the initial marker.

The task we're about to perform is to equate these two curves.

What was the distance between the two circles? Four millimeters.

So, I want its diameter to be four millimeters.

Lower O... four point one. I'm reducing it to four.

I want this circle to be equal to this one.

I won't specify the length distance again for this.

I choose this place.

When I selected this half-curve and pressed Shift E, which is the equals sign, it was also equalized.

Only here, my curves and lines became crooked.

I will apply a different rule here.

"Tangent".

I don't want any mistakes in the drawing.

I want this point where the circle and the straight line, that is, the curve and the straight line, meet to form a neat, orderly line.

I fixed this by selecting the line and curve here with Shift and pressing Shift T, which is the shortcut for "Tangent".

There is now a flawless merger here.

I need to do the same thing on the right side as well.

I choose this line as the other end of the circle.

Let me zoom in a bit and select the curve.

When I pressed Shift + Shift T, which is "Tangent," I got a straight curve.

I will do the same thing here.

I'll shift to T and do the same operation on the other end of the curve.

I'm holding down Shift.

After selecting both of them, and once they're both browned, I press Shift T and it becomes a straight curve here too.

I will select my distance here with Alt D and reduce it to 5 millimeters.

I won't specify any extra distance here either.

Because the more of these symbols you add to your drawing, the more complex the drawing will become.

That's why I want it to be equal.

When I aligned this line with that line using Shift E, I obtained a straight, orderly drawing.

Now, my next step will be to merge this drawing above with the object below.

But I can grab it from here and pull it down.

I'm switching to line mode.

I can do it with the mouse again if I want.

or via the short form L.

I'm linking from this line to this point.

Look, even if I do it like this, the system will automatically correct it.

He corrected it.

I'm drawing my second line from here as well.

He fixed that too.

I'm right-clicking to revert it to normal.

I activate the scissors by pressing the letter Y.

I'm going to cut out the bottom section.

Because it's a department I don't need.

I cut it.

It automatically introduced another unit of measurement.

Why did this happen? Because I divided my outer circle into two parts, so this area became a separate drawing inside.

I can erase this and make these two circles equal if I want.

This means there are two undefined lines.

The Shift key is E and it automatically drops to 1.

With minimal definition, I've managed to make my drawing more distinct.

I've finished my drawing now.

I just need to pay attention to the warning message here.

This means I'm no longer defining the length distance of a point.

How can I identify this?

I use the mouse to move each point left or right to check for any movement.

I've set this to seventy-four millimeters.

It means I can no longer move it from side to side.

I specified this area as ten millimeters.

I can't move it left or right.

I can't move this part.

I moved this part.

What is this?

Yes, that means I haven't specified my line from top to bottom.

How can I also mention this?

So this is our headquarters.

What does this mean?

This means I haven't specified the distance between this point and my center point.

We will state this as follows.

I'm marking the point.

I select this one here with Shift as well.

I press Alt D.

I just want a regular, equal shape.

What was my role here?

Twenty-four, that is, a radius of twelve millimeters.

I want to come right to the middle of this place.

Let it drop five millimeters from here.

So that's seventeen millimeters.

If I create the distance here, it will be a neat, even, and visually pleasing drawing.

I'm talking about seventeen millimeters.

Yes, it's perfectly centered now.

Our drawing is now finished.

And in the right section, there was a fully defined drawing, and to its right was a checkmark.

Our drawing is now finished.

We need to turn this into an object on the computer.

We're going to convert this into a 3D model.

How do we do that?

Now it's time to use the other features of our Skecher division.

We can give this shape a name in the "Name" section.

I'm changing this to a handle.

Enter.

Now this place has become a dead end as well.

"Convert" is located in the lower section.

When he says "convert," what do we want to transform this current form of ourselves into?

This gives us two options.

One is "Bezier" and the other is "Mesh".

"Bezier" also means Bezier curve in Turkish.

If you create a Bezier curve, since this is an animation program,

For example, let's say this is a curve, you make a chain here.

And we take this line as the base for the chain, and our chain is like this, chain by chain, chain by chain around it.

But we don't really need Bezier since we won't be using it as an animation program.

We will use the other option, Mesh.

What is mesh?

The general name given to objects in Blender or other animation programs.

It has no extra features.

All the objects you normally see represent Mesh.

So you can split it into two parts.

One of them is Mesh, which is a generic object.

The other one is the linseed oil curve.

A subsection titled "Mesh Curve Resolution".

In other words, the resolution of the curved sections of our object.

Let's leave it at twelve for now.

When he says "Fill Shape," does that mean it should fill this middle section?

Yes, let him fill it out.

And when we say "Leave," this piece will come here as our object.

And the middle will be filled as well.

It's become a "Tumamac," but that's okay. "Tumamac" and our object now have a unified shape. However, this is currently only a two-dimensional drawing, not a three-dimensional one. We need to add thickness to it. When viewed from the right, it appears as a flat object. How do we add dimension and thickness to it? We will now use the modification plugin section on the right to perform this operation.

We press the key symbol on the right.

Here we say add modification.

We will mostly activate the "Solidify" modification plugin, which is what we will be using.

And here, when it says "Thickness," what thickness do we want it to be in millimeters?

Our thickness was twenty millimeters.

When we press Enter, our object has now taken on a three-dimensional shape.

I can show this "Offset" section better if we view it from the right side.

"Offset" refers to where to start, meaning the difference between the two points.

Should it be twenty millimeters down from minus one zero point?

We're pulling this to the right.

It's going upwards.

When we set this to exactly zero, it takes the center point as the center.

Approximately twenty millimeters up or down.

Or, if you were to assign a value, let it be twenty millimeters upwards, starting from zero and going in that direction.

"Even thickness" refers to whether the thickness should be equal.

Let's mark our line anyway, since it's a straight line.

The thickness should be uniform everywhere.

What he calls "fill" is filling it in.

If you don't fill it in, you'll have two symbols.

He leaves a space in between.

We also choose "Fill".

And now our physical form has come into existence.

Now, I want to go back to our Skecher application and show you a few things about our plugin.

Here, our drawing is actively located on the right side.

The semicircle next to it here controls whether it should be visible or not; when we press it, it turns into an eye icon, and we can actively see our drawing from below.

When we press the pen icon again, we return to our drawing.

Now let me explain these twelve.

Now, here we have a curve.

When I set it to 5 and press Enter, I'll reduce the resolution here, but it hasn't decreased yet.

Here, when we embrace innovation, it will affect our very being.

We press update and the resolution here is finished.

I click "Leave".

Look, my resolution here is now much lower.

I generally prefer to use sixteen on these full curves.

Sixteen.

I press refresh and now it's become a much clearer circle.

I click "Leave".

I'll now tell them to make my option visible here as well.

Our drawing is complete.

We've finished our piece.

We have a few more settings to adjust before activating our object.

We need to save the section we modified.

Currently, in object mode, when we switch to edit mode, our drawing is still essentially a flat point.

Let's switch it back to object mode.

I'm copying this to the right because I still have the possibility of making changes.

I'm also shifting this one next to it with Shift D "Duplicate", meaning to duplicate it, and then shifting it to the same height with Shift Z.

To save this second copy I made, we click the arrow where the modification is located.

Then I press Apply, and it's now accepted. I switch to "Edit Mode" by pressing the Tab key.

My physical form has now become a three-dimensional original object.

There's one final step left. This step involves determining whether the design is suitable for 3D printing, and whether there are any gaps in the design.

We need to check if there are any errors. We can do this with the 3D Print plugin.

In my previous video, I explained these plugins in detail. You select 3D Print, choose the object, and...

You click on "Check All". The system shows you which of our lines are incorrect.

And all our error messages are zero, zero, zero, and zero. The one at the very bottom isn't very important; it just means a regular drawing.

This means that when we send this line to the 3D printer, we will get a beautiful object.

We have one last step to take.

We also need to convert this file into a format suitable for 3D printers.

We do this through the "3D Print Export" section as well.

We choose where we want to save our file.

I say Desktop.

The file name "Accept" will appear as the file name here.

I use STL as the format.

You can also use OBJ, PLY, and X3D files.

"Apply Scale" means accept the scene scaling.

What does this mean?

We're getting to the item.

Your STL file should also have the same dimensions: 74, 29, 06 x 20 mm.

We click on Export.

We will be releasing a message here.

"Exported".

It is now installed on the desktop.

We can import this file into our 3D printer's slider program.

My 3D printer is "Anycubic Cobra".

This also uses the "Ultimaker Cura Slider" program.

I say open the file.

I select the relevant file.

Yes, I was able to retrieve my file without any problems.

Let's check its dimensions from here as well.

twenty-four millimeters, twenty millimeters in height, and twenty-nine millimeters in width.

And when I checked this, in the "Mesh Tool" under "Check Models," it said "Watertight," meaning there are no gaps.

So when I transfer this object to my 3D printer, I will have a problem-free printing process.

Let's say we slice the object.

The object was sliced.

Now, this is my preview; my printing process will take one hour and thirty-eight minutes.

When I look at the sub-sections as well, I see that I will have a smooth printing process.

I received the print without any problems and it fit perfectly.

I hope this video was helpful.

In the next video, I'll be presenting a new project, a new CAD drawing.

Take care of yourselves. Stay healthy.