Original subtitles

Supposedly ran for 10 miles after a rebuild. When we tore it down, it had a

stuck valve guide.

Right. In the last video before this one, they should have seen us rebuilding

the cylinder head here. But the other thing we found was the front, I think it

was the front main bearing mixed a 20,000th shell and a 30,000th shell.

Right.

Which is not...

normal no that's not normal not right not absolutely nothing right about that

I think it was just an error I'm guessing the bearings were packaged

wrong from the manufacturer and when they assembled the motor it was an

oversight and no one even knew whether it contributed to the failure

with the valve guide seizing or not there's the potential that Maybe it was

causing an oil pressure issue if it was 5,000 extra clearance, but we don't

really think that that's the key factor that caused the failure up top.

The other thing, the engine was pretty dirty still. There was quite a bit of

grit. Yeah, there was a lot of stuff left in this motor, and maybe from some

of the accessories that got hung on it.

And I don't know who put this motor together. I don't know if the customer

did, if the machine shop did.

not even gonna go there it doesn't matter at this point it's here now we're

gonna make it right we're gonna go ahead and deck the block here once we get that

done we'll check out the cylinders a little more probably touch them up in

the cylinder home and we need we are going to go ahead and torque the caps on

and check all of those main bores just to make sure that there wasn't make sure

that wasn't intentional yeah make sure for some reason that wasn't intentional

Make sure that they measure like they're supposed to. Make sure that they're not

supposed to have shims in there. Make sure they're the right caps for the

block because, you know, this thing, 65 plus years old, a lot of things could

happen. And we know it's been rebuilt more than once because it's stamped

right here on the deck that it was 40 over boron at some point in time, and

it's 60 right now.

Anyway, we don't really think there's anything wrong with the deck.

other than it's 65 years old, and we want to make sure there's no problem

with the sealing of the head gasket.

So we're going to deck this just because we want it perfect.

So yeah, if you haven't seen the teardown video, that's a good one to

watch. People really liked that.

If you haven't seen the cylinder head rebuild video, I haven't actually edited

it yet, but I'm assuming it's going to be a good one to watch.

you did all the valve guide work i cut the seats yeah

that

looks pretty within reason

yeah i think we're good to go

there might have been a couple thou wiggle in there but end to end you're

definitely pretty good okay and that's what is hoping for us what it should be

but unlike the way the cylinder yeah that cylinder head wouldn't surfaced it

it did not mount up like I would have expected the

valve cover side is not even parallel to the head gasket surface and

I'm almost thinking that head was made that way it's because when we did the

rest of the machine work we didn't have any indication that there was a issue

from that.

You might have noticed the cleaning guy and I putting in some later nights to

try and get these videos out for you all. And that's because we're working

extra hard in anticipation of my wife and I welcoming our first baby girl into

the world in less than a couple of months here. And with that in mind, I

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the video.

See when I get cutter close.

You're just slowly running the cutter down.

It'll be a CBN cutter right now since this is a cast iron block.

There we are.

We do have PCD cutters for aluminum as well as a hybrid PCD CBN for

bimetal blocks.

Okay, I did that kind of quick, but generally a piece of paper is 3

thousandths of an inch.

So let me see how much it takes before we hear it start cutting.

I was closer than I thought. Half thousandths. Well, you only checked one

spot.

Where did it even touch?

It may have been hitting on a... No, it's touching pretty good there.

Over on this side.

Turn this on? Yeah, turn that on.

So you're touching there.

It's right there. Don't stick your finger in it, but it's right there.

Okay, I'm going to zero it.

What should we take?

Two, three?

Maybe do a two just for fun.

We might be here a little longer. We might be here a little longer, but let's

see what 2000 shows us. It's kind of fun sometimes making a light cut because

it'll show you where all the problems are.

Should we put any color on that?

Yeah, we could, just to make it fun for the video.

What color do you want? Blue?

Blue is probably easier because you can just spray it.

Well, especially because we have blue.

Well, we have red over there.

Ready?

Sure.

Let's speed this up.

So it's about a 14-inch fly cutter.

spinning at 630 rpm we're going to traverse 160 millimeters per minute

the overseas people like that

smells

good i'll put our high-tech cover on here

try to contain the chips a little bit

Setting up the new diamond head while we let that run.

Yeah, first time for me attempting to change any of these.

So we got this set up and ended up kind of being a pain

because we actually bought this used and it was too short.

So we had to extend this piece on our machine.

This block is going to be definitely pushing the small side of what we can do

with this home head.

Interesting. Okay, first pass is done here.

That didn't sound good. That was this.

You thought I scraped the top of the block.

Huh.

And this would be why we surface blocks even when you think maybe they don't

need it.

Yeah.

Show us what. Well, if you look here, you can see kind of a pattern in this.

That's from 65 years of head gaskets wearing into the surface.

It almost looks like the checkerboard pattern like a head gasket would have.

And then we touched across here in some places.

Right here we missed where the gasket is worn into the block, but it shined up

kind of sides here.

And then all of a sudden we've got a high spot along the side over here.

Yeah.

So at first when I saw this side, I thought, you know, the difference

between us cutting it and whoever cut it last was just tilted slightly.

But then you get down here, and it's clearly touching over there. Yeah.

And almost nothing over here.

Huh.

And that was two thousandths. That was two thousandths.

So let's give it two more.

Yeah. And see what it looks like.

There we go.

Four thousands have been removed.

Well, what does over 40 years of experience say?

40 years of experience says I'm glad we did this because to look at that,

it looked probably fine.

But look, we've got a whole corner here that's low.

We've got spots here where the gasket has worked and eroded into

the deck surface. It was probably getting some coolant under the gasket.

You know, here's another one. Has eight into the deck surface.

Maybe putting a head gasket on there again would have sealed.

Maybe it wouldn't. But I know now that when we get done surfacing this, it

definitely will seal again.

We will not have issues.

So let's go two more.

You know, we could be taking considerably more on each cut, but it's

kind of fun to just do a couple at a time here.

and just see how things progress yeah

so

there's two more let's see what that's gonna look like and we probably won't

get all of this out because that uh you know rust is just like a cancer it goes

down into the metal you can never get rid of all of it uh but we can get

enough of that to where We know it'll seal good again.

Okay, let's see what we got this time.

starting to look more like it i mean you have stuff like this that is never gonna

fully well no and when you let me go get the head gasket and show you

yeah that should be within yeah that'll be inside the head gasket

maybe one spot over there overall

looking pretty good

So when we put the head gasket on this, that's where there's big openings in the

head gasket anyway.

So all of this stuff has no effect on it whatsoever.

Okay.

And... There's that one little spot over there, but... Well, this along the edge

here and on the corner.

That's almost outside where there's anything that has to be sealed.

Should we do just a finish cut? I was going to say a finish cut and it's

caught good. What's that right there? That's kind of a bad spot.

Let's see where that is.

That's pretty deep.

You know what? That's not an issue.

We lucked out.

If that had been like right over here, that would have caused us problems.

So one more for finish.

You going to slow it down?

Yeah, we could a little bit.

How much do you want to go down?

It depends how long you want to be here. I like 70, but that's really... I don't

want to be here that long.

Go 100.

there's 100 and it even still there was enough chamfer on the top of the

cylinders we won't have to redo anything there either so

okay so we took seven total off

Looks as good as it's going to get to me. Yeah, I was going to say, I think

that's as good a surface as we can get out of an old block like this.

Maybe not cosmetically perfect, but functionally, I think

everything that matters is clean.

Should we get it off here?

Yeah, let's take the block off here.

We'll flip it over upside down on the cart here, torque the main caps on, and

then see what the main bores look like. Okay. See what we got.

I'm not sure which way the main caps go on.

Probably some, like, very specific thing that the more experienced 235... Well,

that's it. The guys that are more familiar with these engines than

we are, I'm going to say just the way that cap fits.

I think it should go this way.

And there are some threes stamped on here towards the front side.

Yeah, but there's a two on this side and a two on that side. Yeah.

And again, just the way it feels in here.

I like it this way the best.

Because there's nothing to line these up, no dowels, no registers, anything.

You just have to put it together and kind of tap it back and forth just a

little bit until you get it to line up the way you want.

So let's start with... I guess we could start with one of these.

But I want to put some oil on the bolts here before we get going.

This one here, I pointed out.

Yeah, look at the chamfer, how wide it is there.

Need more light on it, or does that show it?

It shows. Okay.

Compared to right here.

That's kind of one of the things I learned on rod caps figuring them not

which way but matching matching mixed up rod caps is if they don't have any

numbers and they're all taken apart and mismatched you can look at the chamfer

and If we then but yeah, if I turn this around this portion

over here that is really wide That would be over here then and obviously would

not match. So I know we've got that one, right?

I'm going to go off of, there's a small three towards that side of the cap.

There's a small two towards that side of the cap. And I don't know what that

little nubbin there is for, but a lot of times that's the indicator of front.

So we'll go with that for right now. And you said by feel that's the way it is.

Just flipping it back and forth and feeling the way it lines up. It felt the

best this way.

So let's get...

I'm going to go set up the bore gauge to the sizes. What did I do with that list?

I forgot its sizes.

Yeah, every single one of them is different.

So anyway, I took a picture of the spec out of the book. This is 1, 2, 3, 4,

number main.

So I'll set up this, start with number 2.

I'll set the bore gauge for that.

as we snug this down we'll have to kind of check it and maybe take a hammer and

just bump the cap a little bit one side or the other to line it up because

there's no crank or bearing in there to line it up at this point zero on the

gauge is middle of spec about a half on well not even quite a half kind of

varies depending where you're at roughly a half on the tight side you said zero

is middle zero is middle little is Middle is spec.

And how big is the spec?

What's the tolerance? Oh, one thousandths. Okay, so it's right.

Yeah. Going to the side there, I'm a little bit tight.

Going this direction, side to side.

Again, I'm a little bit tight.

So when we put this together, we'll have to see what things feel like.

And actually the instructions or the way these were done is even if it was a

shimmed motor, you put your shims in, you torqued everything down.

If the crank turned fine, you went back and took out two thousandths shim on

one side at a time until the crank started getting tight. Then you would

add two thousandths on one side back in.

And stop that just for a second. Let me go over and get the book.

Right here in the clevite bearing book, main bearings under normal conditions

should be assembled with a 4,000 shim pack, not to extend between party line

surface. Remove shims to give slight drag, then add one 2,000 shim to

one side.

And that gives you the proper clearance.

But this is not.

A shimmed motor, we decided. No, I don't think this is a shimmed motor. It didn't

have shims in it when it came in here, and we'll have to check the other mains

here, but after checking this one, I don't think that should have any shims

in it.

So we'll put the crank in, see what it feels like.

If it was a little tight, we could add shim to one side rather than trying to

get this thing line board, because these are a problem.

because every main is a different size. You can't use a normal hone through

there. It literally has to be bored, and each one bored a different size.

So with that said, let's go ahead and try the next cap here.

I'm going to snug it down just a little bit to begin with.

Let's go about 25 pounds on it.

Since there's nothing to line this cap up, I'm going to start at 25 pounds, and

if the cap seems to be shifted, i can bump it with the tap it a little bit

hammer and get it lined up vertically i'm a couple thousandths loose which is

to be expected because it's not torqued yet but i'm unsure if the cap is lined

up correctly side to side so i'm going to come over this direction here and i'm

going to take a reading and it looks like i'm what one and a half loose now

come around on the other side of me

And I'm going to read here.

And I'm about zero.

So that's telling me it's tighter in this direction.

So I need to bump the cap that way just a little bit.

Yeah, I might be already too tight.

So let me loosen this just a little bit.

Yeah, that's pretty tight.

Yeah, probably went too much because I'm one and a half loose.

Maybe not.

One loose.

Take it back just a little bit.

Now let's torque it a little bit tighter again.

Okay, I'm about one thousandths loose.

How am I there? You can probably see it better than me.

Just one thou, about. Okay.

That's torque to spec, which is 100 to 110 pounds.

Let me over torque it.

Over torque this one.

You have to explain to our viewers about that.

Okay, look there.

We're about half thousandths.

i think we should let the comments explain that okay yeah we're about half

thousandths tight or half thousandths loose yeah and we're fine that way we're

fine that way aren't we yeah so we're right on loose side of spec right on

tight side of spec for this yeah i think we're within reason it's it's nothing

that concerns me these whole things were pretty crude you know considering these

old guys corrected all this with shims when they needed to yeah back when these

were new and the guys that were rebuilding these those were true

machinists because you had to know how to set up the bearings and get your

clearance right it wasn't a deal where you just throw a set of bearings in it

and away you go you had to work with it let's do the front cap next since it's

the same same torque as the one we just got done doing and it's the question cap

It's a what? Oh yeah, it's the one the question's about.

And I don't know if we've said this, but the front three caps here have 9-16ths

diameter bolts.

And the rear main is a 4-bolt main, but it only uses half-inch diameter bolts.

So they're a different torque than the other three here.

And again, there's nothing to line this up so you can feel it there.

And also have to make sure it's lined up even on the front here.

Yeah, that one doesn't feel quite right.

Tap that yourself a little bit, work with that, see if you can get it so it

feels a little bit better while I set up the gauge.

Okay, it will not.

Snug it down and we'll see what it measures like.

Okay, when I go sideways that way, we're about plus one.

I go this way, we're minus one.

So it needs to come this way.

It doesn't want to go that way.

You know that's where these bolts torque down.

It has kind of rolled a little bit of metal over there. It may be enough there

that it's holding it.

Keeping it from going.

Okay, well just for fun, let's torque it down and measure it.

You think that's the right cap?

Well, that's what I'm beginning to wonder. Have we got a block with the

wrong cap on it?

Glad we did the head.

We'll figure out how to make it work.

Well, we're right on the money up and down.

I say we're right on the money, right in the middle of the spec, in the vertical

direction. That's our important direction.

So what are we there?

About three tight.

Okay, come over this way.

We're about on the money there.

So, something is not quite right with that cap.

Maybe that's why, maybe they did purposely put that other bearing in

there. We'll never know.

Only thing I know is we have to deal with what we've got right now.

Vertical, it's on the money.

Yeah. So what gives?

Well, it could be a situation where the bolt holes in this cap are a little bit

tight compared to the bolt itself.

Have I got enough oomph to break loose that much torque?

What was I telling you earlier today about you don't have to use the excuse

of being a wimp anymore because you can qualify as a senior citizen?

I told somebody I couldn't lift something because I was just a wimp.

And Nicholas, thanks a lot, pointed out right away that I'm a senior citizen.

So I could use that for an excuse.

It just almost feels like the cap is a little bit narrow for the block.

But see, that's the other thing. Look at that bolt is tight in there.

That one's not.

Let's, I think it's rolled the metal over on the top just a little bit.

Let me take a reamer and go in there and try to take that out just a little bit.

I've got a reamer here that's actually a little bit loose on the bottom side of

that. But when it gets up to the top.

it's tight because the metal is rolled over.

Caps have been on and off too many times.

Not

a

lot, but a little bit there.

Yeah, I can still feel it.

Okay, we're looking good that direction.

Let me roll over your way.

Yeah, we're still tight that direction.

And when I come over here,

i'm still just a little loose well i'm not going to do it right now but i think

if we go through those with the ream and open those bolt holes up just a little

bit so the cap can move i think we can make it work okay so let's move

on and check that back one but it does make you wonder if that almost is not

the right cap or something yeah it up and down it fits Yeah, up and down it

fits really nice.

But sideways there, it's a little questionable.

This one has dowels.

I'm going to open those bolt holes up.

See if I can make that fit before we get ready to assemble it.

I think I can get it closer.

And it may end up being a deal that we have to kind of hand fit it.

i was just thinking about this this front cap the good thing here is our

vertical direct dimension is correct and it's not that the cap is way too wide or

way too narrow it's just not aligned side to side so i have confidence that

if we open these bolt holes up just a little bit maybe just put it on the

cylinder on the pin hone over there and i can hone those bolt holes out just a

little bit i have confidence i can get that cap to where it will at least have

equal clearance on both sides.

And again, our vertical is what we're concerned about.

It makes you wonder if it was just a mistake or if they

put the right size bearings in and it was misaligned like that.

Misaligned and it was too tight with the 30 and 30.

But instead of measuring and fixing it right, they were like, oh, let's try a

20. And they put a 20 in and everything worked good. Or it felt good. I won't

say worked good. It felt good. The crank turned. The crank went from not turning

to turning.

Yeah, which is a good thing. And in some shops, that's, hey, let's go for it. I

don't know.

Yeah, we have no idea.

All we can do is wish we knew. Yeah, wish we knew. But all we can do here is

make speculation.

Again, zero is the middle of spec.

We can go a half thousandths either side of that.

I think we're real good there.

On the rear main? Yeah.

And if we go side to side, what do you see there?

Whoops, I've got to hold that up, give it a little.

Oh, tenths. Yeah, tenths from being on.

We go the other direction here.

Maybe a half.

Yeah. But again, probably misalignment. Right. So this block does not require

shims.

With the exception of that front main, everything measures well within

spec, especially this type of engine and the age of this engine.

So let's go ahead and put it in the hone.

Let's get our cylinders finished.

And after we're done honing the cylinders and at the point where I'm

putting in the cam bearings or you're putting in the cam bearings, whoever

ends up doing that, let's hone. We'll go over on the pin hone and we'll hone

those holes out just a little bit and check this again before we assemble it.

But I'm confident we can make it work with a set of 30 under bearings.

So these are 180 grit diamonds right now.

which should be pretty coarse.

One thing that's funny on this is somebody almost

screwed that cylinder up big time.

Yeah. Do you see that? Yeah, looking at that, they started boring and they were

not centered.

So that tells me most likely at some point in time this was bored with a...

maybe like an old Van Norman boring block, or boring bar, which were very,

very common.

That's what we started out with.

They mount on the deck surface of the block, and it was not uncommon to have

something happen, not get it centered right, or bolted down right, and you

start boring and realize it's off-center.

So they started out just a little bit there off-center, but they got it

stopped in time before it made any permanent damage.

Just a cosmetic thing there.

And no one else would even know what that was if they had not done that

themselves. Yeah.

Okay, so we've set the block up, mounted off the pan rails here, bar through the

mains. Mains are still torqued on the block, bolted down solid in the machine.

So we got to measure our cylinder length.

What is that, seven and a quarter?

So there's a...

gauge up in here where we set the stroke length.

I think there's seven and a quarter.

You check for very top of stroke, which I'm at, and then they are supposed to

overstroke five-eighths of an inch, so I've got a piece of metal here that is

real close to five-eighths, or is that right? Yeah, five-eighths, okay. With

these stones. With these stones, okay.

So you know that... This is not quite 5 eighths. Yeah, it's a little shy of 5

eighths, so I'm going to fudge just a little bit above right there. Okay.

There's nothing in the bottom because it'll overstroke out the bottom 5

eighths of an inch too. We already checked.

There's nothing. There's no webs or anything in this like there is V8 block.

Get the spreadsheet out? Yeah. Get your sheet out there, and let's see what we

need to do on.

Spindle speed and stroke length and stroke speed.

So our stroke is 725?

Yeah. Our bore diameter is 3.622.

Stone length over stroke.

Is it on 57 and 125 right now?

57 stroke rate and 125?

Okay, that'll give a 43 degree crosshatch angle. Okay.

Let's see how it looks. Okay, so we do have this belt set on 125 spindle speed,

and this belt here, 57 strokes per minute.

Okay, I'm just going to comment on the torque plate thing, because I know

people are going to question this.

First off, if anybody can find where you can buy a torque plate for

a 1956 235 that's not custom,

let me know put it in the comments because nobody makes one that's that's

just all there is to it is this type of engine it's not going to make a big deal

well that's it when you uh don't have any more horsepower than this had when

it was brand new what little percent of a game you might see what are you going

to go from 100 horsepower to a hundred and a half horsepower yeah and you're

not

there's only like three bolt holes that are even close to the cylinders so i

would imagine the distortion is honestly not significant anyway where you see is

like your 400 small block chevy yeah right i mean there's no material between

where the bolt hole is the threads are literally in the side of the cylinder

wall yeah and that's one that you always use a torque yeah yeah we've always used

torque plates on them yeah So that's just a little tidbit of my opinion

there.

Just checking to make sure I don't hit anything.

Look, it is going to fill it up.

It does fill it up.

Yeah. Well,

that's okay. That'll wash it good.

What

do

you see?

It's on.

It looks pretty straight. The stone's touched everywhere for the most part.

There's maybe a little bit of discoloration right up there.

but obviously really not any wear no in the cylinder no there's no wear

and actually looks like whoever honed that the last time made a pretty

straight cylinder we did already check all of the cylinders with the bore gauge

seemed like we were between half to one thousandth over the nominal sixty

thousandths oversize so

We don't want to open it up a ton, but we just want to make sure that they're

nice and straight and see if we can get a good surface finish on them for our

new piston rings.

Solid one plus.

Yeah, I'm guessing by the time you get done here with where that block was when

we started.

what you're gonna have to take out to get a good cross hatch in there we're

probably gonna be probably one a minimum of one if not

one and a half or a little bit better additional clearance from one from

minimum and that'll be fine this cylinder that we haven't touched yet

it's easily one one extra already yeah

So the one I still haven't, you know, haven't really taken

anything to speak of.

Yeah, and it's going to be pretty hard to get a crosshatch in there without

opening it up half to one.

I'd like to see you get rid of all this dark. Yeah.

Even if that means it's a little bit on the loose side.

It's hard to tell there, kind of smudged it, but everything looks good all the

way around here.

I think that's a good spot to leave it with our rough stones there.

And just for reference on our bore size,

that gauge may or may not be in focus.

But we're going to end up pretty close to one and a half

loose from nominal minimum spec.

Pretty straight too.

They're tighter at the bottom from the start, so it's always kind of

hard to straighten that out.

Straighten it out without removing a lot of material.

Yeah, exactly.

You can only work with what you've got.

kind of thing yeah so should i just go through i just go through and make them

whatever you did there make them all look just like that okay well i ran this

until it stopped theoretically i should be able to do that again i was just

afraid no more and you're going you know sometimes it stops right before the

click or right after but it never really took more than

It never took an excessive amount.

Yeah. I still see a little bit of dark at the top.

Yeah, I can see from here where the piston ran anyway.

It's hard when you have something new.

It takes a little while to gain trust in your machine. Yeah.

You know, tell them about the hose on the pump on this thing.

So I've had this machine for 30 years.

And from day one, it has never flowed the amount of oil for

coolant here that I thought it should.

You know, I always thought it was the filters plugged or something. You change

the filters, didn't make any difference.

But yet...

I mean, it was enough. It worked fine.

So in the course of changing this thing over for the diamonds and changing over

the different oil, I'm in the back of this machine changing the filters, and I

look up in there, and lo and behold, the hose that comes from the pump

up to the filters has got a big old huge kink in it. It's been

that way all these years.

so we changed out that hose and man it's amazing how much more oil flows through

this thing now the load meter when it when a cylinder is nice and straight

this needle runs pretty dang true and the block we were doing

the first block we did with this head that needle did not freaking budge

no it was it was it almost looked like it was broke yeah we were like okay it's

stuck

On this, they're not quite as straight, and we don't have enough room to get

them as straight.

But if we could take two or three thou out of this, I think it'd be doing the

same thing.

Kind of watch as we start compared to as it gets closer to finished.

You'll notice it.

are we already there might be

i

think i just pushed out too

much pressure to start with

i've always been told

that if you can keep that needle under uh 10

On that load meter, they always figured your cylinder was pretty straight.

And with these diamond stones, it's very easy to keep it there.

And the eight stone head on top. And I don't mean under 10 on the scale. I mean

a range of movement of 10.

Yeah.

What about 10 over clearance?

10 over clearance? Yeah. Is that what we need?

Is that what we've got?

10 tenths.

10 tenths, that sounds fine.

This cylinder actually is pretty dang straight though. Except right there at

the top it gets pretty loose.

Yeah, well that's what I noticed. Every one of them was loose at the top.

Sort of between one and one and a half.

That looks fine.

i just can't believe how effortlessly straight this makes them yeah

you're not fighting that fine line between too much pressure

that makes the cylinder go all wonky and not enough pressure glazing the stones

over yeah and maybe if you did the same block all day long all week long

you'd figure out just exactly which stone grit and hardness grade, made it

work, but we never do two of the same twice.

Yeah, you run it and let it, I'm going to call it spark out, but run until it

stops according to the dial here twice.

They're all exactly the same.

You got your little hook?

Do I need my little hook?

Yeah. I don't think I do.

So these are 600 grit CBN.

65 18 and 54 on the RK so we could maybe go two more strokes and see what

it does

I

Almost think we do that 16 RPK

We could go a little bit more, but I don't know that we need to.

67, it looked like our RVK didn't change a whole lot, and our RK is 45.

I think that's probably good.

Okay. So I'm going to do two more on that cylinder, and then I'm going to do

the rest.

Okay. I'm going to do like seven slash eight on the rest.

So on the diamonds, I'm kind of using the, I don't know, what do you call it?

It's the scale up here to...

in the auto stop to just stop it at the same point of feeding out the stones

and that works pretty good to get them all the exact same size now that we have

the CV ends in we're just doing our plateau and we're actually only removing

you know maybe if I look here like we're really not removing

any material at all to speak of So rather than using the scale on here, I'm

just counting how many strokes, and then we kind of checked.

And if you want to get a little bit lower peak numbers, you can go more

strokes.

If you want less peak, you can go less strokes. But I think we kind of figured

out here that seven strokes is probably going to be our ticket.

So I'm going to do two on the third cylinder over here, but the rest of

them, they're getting seven.

So I'll just turn it up until I feel pressure and kind of can hear it and

count seven strokes and it'll be done.

Two, three, four, five, six, seven.

Now this cylinder I still need to do two more because we started with five on it.

Might have been three.

It's not like thousands of people will see this.

I accidentally might have had a little more pressure on that one, so we'll see

what that does to the numbers.

with the diamonds and the cbn in this eight stone head i think it

just takes a lot of the variability out of it but it with this machine it's

still going to take finesse right just not as much finesse yeah

They have a nice feel.

Can you feel the peaks and valleys?

Ow, yes.

Shut the hell up.

Isn't that funny the way that oil... It's like soapy. Yeah.

I like it though. I could wash my hands in it.

I'm gonna say we are pretty freakin straight and anywhere between I'll call

it one to one and a half but it's really more like one two to one and a half okay

that's good across all of them that's good okay I have got this customers

invoice open cylinder one RVK yeah 68

.25 our K is 37.97 And RPK.

11.70.

RVK. 65.70.

RK.

43.0. And RPK.

12.04.

I can just see it in your head. How did I do this for 41 years?

Do you know how many 235 Chevys I sent out of here?

Actually, not that many.

They were pretty much gone. Yeah.

Already? They were already gone for the most part.

And I remember doing quite a few heads early on for them. And then it turned

into the deal. The last few years has been restoration stuff just like this

is. Yeah.

RVK. 52.7.

RK.

37.36.

And RPK.

13.03.

RVK. 67.85.

RK. 45.88.

And RPK.

15.06.

Okay, RVK.

77.84.

And RK.

43.97.

And RPK.

13.59. So that one has a little more value for whatever reason.

RVK, 54.61.

RK.

39.50.

RPK. 12.43.

Well, that, I think, looks a lot better than when it came in.

Yeah. Yeah, it's definitely, we've definitely made some improvements.

When it came in, it had gone 10 miles farther than this one has.

That's true.

But I think I'm impressed with the new diamond head.

mean these are all consistent size straight up and down our surface finish

numbers i think we're still going to have to play with the diamonds and

pressures and just get some more experience with it but i'm happy with