All language subtitles for Investigating The MISMATCHED Main Bearings In The BROKE DOWN 235 Chevy

Supposedly ran for 10 miles after a
rebuild. When we tore it down, it had a

stuck valve guide.

Right. In the last video before this
one, they should have seen us rebuilding

the cylinder head here. But the other
thing we found was the front, I think it

was the front main bearing mixed a
20,000th shell and a 30,000th shell.

Right.

Which is not...

normal no that's not normal not right
not absolutely nothing right about that

I think it was just an error I'm
guessing the bearings were packaged

wrong from the manufacturer and when
they assembled the motor it was an

oversight and no one even knew whether
it contributed to the failure

with the valve guide seizing or not
there's the potential that Maybe it was

causing an oil pressure issue if it was
5,000 extra clearance, but we don't

really think that that's the key factor
that caused the failure up top.

The other thing, the engine was pretty
dirty still. There was quite a bit of

grit. Yeah, there was a lot of stuff
left in this motor, and maybe from some

of the accessories that got hung on it.

And I don't know who put this motor
together. I don't know if the customer

did, if the machine shop did.

not even gonna go there it doesn't
matter at this point it's here now we're

gonna make it right we're gonna go ahead
and deck the block here once we get that

done we'll check out the cylinders a
little more probably touch them up in

the cylinder home and we need we are
going to go ahead and torque the caps on

and check all of those main bores just
to make sure that there wasn't make sure

that wasn't intentional yeah make sure
for some reason that wasn't intentional

Make sure that they measure like they're
supposed to. Make sure that they're not

supposed to have shims in there. Make
sure they're the right caps for the

block because, you know, this thing, 65
plus years old, a lot of things could

happen. And we know it's been rebuilt
more than once because it's stamped

right here on the deck that it was 40
over boron at some point in time, and

it's 60 right now.

Anyway, we don't really think there's
anything wrong with the deck.

other than it's 65 years old, and we
want to make sure there's no problem

with the sealing of the head gasket.

So we're going to deck this just because
we want it perfect.

So yeah, if you haven't seen the
teardown video, that's a good one to

watch. People really liked that.

If you haven't seen the cylinder head
rebuild video, I haven't actually edited

it yet, but I'm assuming it's going to
be a good one to watch.

you did all the valve guide work i cut
the seats yeah

that

looks pretty within reason

yeah i think we're good to go

there might have been a couple thou
wiggle in there but end to end you're

definitely pretty good okay and that's
what is hoping for us what it should be

but unlike the way the cylinder yeah
that cylinder head wouldn't surfaced it

it did not mount up like I would have
expected the

valve cover side is not even parallel to
the head gasket surface and

I'm almost thinking that head was made
that way it's because when we did the

rest of the machine work we didn't have
any indication that there was a issue

from that.

You might have noticed the cleaning guy
and I putting in some later nights to

try and get these videos out for you
all. And that's because we're working

extra hard in anticipation of my wife
and I welcoming our first baby girl into

the world in less than a couple of
months here. And with that in mind, I

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the video.

See when I get cutter close.

You're just slowly running the cutter
down.

It'll be a CBN cutter right now since
this is a cast iron block.

There we are.

We do have PCD cutters for aluminum as
well as a hybrid PCD CBN for

bimetal blocks.

Okay, I did that kind of quick, but
generally a piece of paper is 3

thousandths of an inch.

So let me see how much it takes before
we hear it start cutting.

I was closer than I thought. Half
thousandths. Well, you only checked one

spot.

Where did it even touch?

It may have been hitting on a... No,
it's touching pretty good there.

Over on this side.

Turn this on? Yeah, turn that on.

So you're touching there.

It's right there. Don't stick your
finger in it, but it's right there.

Okay, I'm going to zero it.

What should we take?

Two, three?

Maybe do a two just for fun.

We might be here a little longer. We
might be here a little longer, but let's

see what 2000 shows us. It's kind of fun
sometimes making a light cut because

it'll show you where all the problems
are.

Should we put any color on that?

Yeah, we could, just to make it fun for
the video.

What color do you want? Blue?

Blue is probably easier because you can
just spray it.

Well, especially because we have blue.

Well, we have red over there.

Ready?

Sure.

Let's speed this up.

So it's about a 14-inch fly cutter.

spinning at 630 rpm we're going to
traverse 160 millimeters per minute

the overseas people like that

smells

good i'll put our high-tech cover on
here

try to contain the chips a little bit

Setting up the new diamond head while we
let that run.

Yeah, first time for me attempting to
change any of these.

So we got this set up and ended up kind
of being a pain

because we actually bought this used and
it was too short.

So we had to extend this piece on our
machine.

This block is going to be definitely
pushing the small side of what we can do

with this home head.

Interesting. Okay, first pass is done
here.

That didn't sound good. That was this.

You thought I scraped the top of the
block.

Huh.

And this would be why we surface blocks
even when you think maybe they don't

need it.

Yeah.

Show us what. Well, if you look here,
you can see kind of a pattern in this.

That's from 65 years of head gaskets
wearing into the surface.

It almost looks like the checkerboard
pattern like a head gasket would have.

And then we touched across here in some
places.

Right here we missed where the gasket is
worn into the block, but it shined up

kind of sides here.

And then all of a sudden we've got a
high spot along the side over here.

Yeah.

So at first when I saw this side, I
thought, you know, the difference

between us cutting it and whoever cut it
last was just tilted slightly.

But then you get down here, and it's
clearly touching over there. Yeah.

And almost nothing over here.

Huh.

And that was two thousandths. That was
two thousandths.

So let's give it two more.

Yeah. And see what it looks like.

There we go.

Four thousands have been removed.

Well, what does over 40 years of
experience say?

40 years of experience says I'm glad we
did this because to look at that,

it looked probably fine.

But look, we've got a whole corner here
that's low.

We've got spots here where the gasket
has worked and eroded into

the deck surface. It was probably
getting some coolant under the gasket.

You know, here's another one. Has eight
into the deck surface.

Maybe putting a head gasket on there
again would have sealed.

Maybe it wouldn't. But I know now that
when we get done surfacing this, it

definitely will seal again.

We will not have issues.

So let's go two more.

You know, we could be taking
considerably more on each cut, but it's

kind of fun to just do a couple at a
time here.

and just see how things progress yeah

so

there's two more let's see what that's
gonna look like and we probably won't

get all of this out because that uh you
know rust is just like a cancer it goes

down into the metal you can never get
rid of all of it uh but we can get

enough of that to where We know it'll
seal good again.

Okay, let's see what we got this time.

starting to look more like it i mean you
have stuff like this that is never gonna

fully well no and when you let me go get
the head gasket and show you

yeah that should be within yeah that'll
be inside the head gasket

maybe one spot over there overall

looking pretty good

So when we put the head gasket on this,
that's where there's big openings in the

head gasket anyway.

So all of this stuff has no effect on it
whatsoever.

Okay.

And... There's that one little spot over
there, but... Well, this along the edge

here and on the corner.

That's almost outside where there's
anything that has to be sealed.

Should we do just a finish cut? I was
going to say a finish cut and it's

caught good. What's that right there?
That's kind of a bad spot.

Let's see where that is.

That's pretty deep.

You know what? That's not an issue.

We lucked out.

If that had been like right over here,
that would have caused us problems.

So one more for finish.

You going to slow it down?

Yeah, we could a little bit.

How much do you want to go down?

It depends how long you want to be here.
I like 70, but that's really... I don't

want to be here that long.

Go 100.

there's 100 and it even still there was
enough chamfer on the top of the

cylinders we won't have to redo anything
there either so

okay so we took seven total off

Looks as good as it's going to get to
me. Yeah, I was going to say, I think

that's as good a surface as we can get
out of an old block like this.

Maybe not cosmetically perfect, but
functionally, I think

everything that matters is clean.

Should we get it off here?

Yeah, let's take the block off here.

We'll flip it over upside down on the
cart here, torque the main caps on, and

then see what the main bores look like.
Okay. See what we got.

I'm not sure which way the main caps go
on.

Probably some, like, very specific thing
that the more experienced 235... Well,

that's it. The guys that are more
familiar with these engines than

we are, I'm going to say just the way
that cap fits.

I think it should go this way.

And there are some threes stamped on
here towards the front side.

Yeah, but there's a two on this side and
a two on that side. Yeah.

And again, just the way it feels in
here.

I like it this way the best.

Because there's nothing to line these
up, no dowels, no registers, anything.

You just have to put it together and
kind of tap it back and forth just a

little bit until you get it to line up
the way you want.

So let's start with... I guess we could
start with one of these.

But I want to put some oil on the bolts
here before we get going.

This one here, I pointed out.

Yeah, look at the chamfer, how wide it
is there.

Need more light on it, or does that show
it?

It shows. Okay.

Compared to right here.

That's kind of one of the things I
learned on rod caps figuring them not

which way but matching matching mixed up
rod caps is if they don't have any

numbers and they're all taken apart and
mismatched you can look at the chamfer

and If we then but yeah, if I turn this
around this portion

over here that is really wide That would
be over here then and obviously would

not match. So I know we've got that one,
right?

I'm going to go off of, there's a small
three towards that side of the cap.

There's a small two towards that side of
the cap. And I don't know what that

little nubbin there is for, but a lot of
times that's the indicator of front.

So we'll go with that for right now. And
you said by feel that's the way it is.

Just flipping it back and forth and
feeling the way it lines up. It felt the

best this way.

So let's get...

I'm going to go set up the bore gauge to
the sizes. What did I do with that list?

I forgot its sizes.

Yeah, every single one of them is
different.

So anyway, I took a picture of the spec
out of the book. This is 1, 2, 3, 4,

number main.

So I'll set up this, start with number
2.

I'll set the bore gauge for that.

as we snug this down we'll have to kind
of check it and maybe take a hammer and

just bump the cap a little bit one side
or the other to line it up because

there's no crank or bearing in there to
line it up at this point zero on the

gauge is middle of spec about a half on
well not even quite a half kind of

varies depending where you're at roughly
a half on the tight side you said zero

is middle zero is middle little is
Middle is spec.

And how big is the spec?

What's the tolerance? Oh, one
thousandths. Okay, so it's right.

Yeah. Going to the side there, I'm a
little bit tight.

Going this direction, side to side.

Again, I'm a little bit tight.

So when we put this together, we'll have
to see what things feel like.

And actually the instructions or the way
these were done is even if it was a

shimmed motor, you put your shims in,
you torqued everything down.

If the crank turned fine, you went back
and took out two thousandths shim on

one side at a time until the crank
started getting tight. Then you would

add two thousandths on one side back in.

And stop that just for a second. Let me
go over and get the book.

Right here in the clevite bearing book,
main bearings under normal conditions

should be assembled with a 4,000 shim
pack, not to extend between party line

surface. Remove shims to give slight
drag, then add one 2,000 shim to

one side.

And that gives you the proper clearance.

But this is not.

A shimmed motor, we decided. No, I don't
think this is a shimmed motor. It didn't

have shims in it when it came in here,
and we'll have to check the other mains

here, but after checking this one, I
don't think that should have any shims

in it.

So we'll put the crank in, see what it
feels like.

If it was a little tight, we could add
shim to one side rather than trying to

get this thing line board, because these
are a problem.

because every main is a different size.
You can't use a normal hone through

there. It literally has to be bored, and
each one bored a different size.

So with that said, let's go ahead and
try the next cap here.

I'm going to snug it down just a little
bit to begin with.

Let's go about 25 pounds on it.

Since there's nothing to line this cap
up, I'm going to start at 25 pounds, and

if the cap seems to be shifted, i can
bump it with the tap it a little bit

hammer and get it lined up vertically
i'm a couple thousandths loose which is

to be expected because it's not torqued
yet but i'm unsure if the cap is lined

up correctly side to side so i'm going
to come over this direction here and i'm

going to take a reading and it looks
like i'm what one and a half loose now

come around on the other side of me

And I'm going to read here.

And I'm about zero.

So that's telling me it's tighter in
this direction.

So I need to bump the cap that way just
a little bit.

Yeah, I might be already too tight.

So let me loosen this just a little bit.

Yeah, that's pretty tight.

Yeah, probably went too much because I'm
one and a half loose.

Maybe not.

One loose.

Take it back just a little bit.

Now let's torque it a little bit tighter
again.

Okay, I'm about one thousandths loose.

How am I there? You can probably see it
better than me.

Just one thou, about. Okay.

That's torque to spec, which is 100 to
110 pounds.

Let me over torque it.

Over torque this one.

You have to explain to our viewers about
that.

Okay, look there.

We're about half thousandths.

i think we should let the comments
explain that okay yeah we're about half

thousandths tight or half thousandths
loose yeah and we're fine that way we're

fine that way aren't we yeah so we're
right on loose side of spec right on

tight side of spec for this yeah i think
we're within reason it's it's nothing

that concerns me these whole things were
pretty crude you know considering these

old guys corrected all this with shims
when they needed to yeah back when these

were new and the guys that were
rebuilding these those were true

machinists because you had to know how
to set up the bearings and get your

clearance right it wasn't a deal where
you just throw a set of bearings in it

and away you go you had to work with it
let's do the front cap next since it's

the same same torque as the one we just
got done doing and it's the question cap

It's a what? Oh yeah, it's the one the
question's about.

And I don't know if we've said this, but
the front three caps here have 9-16ths

diameter bolts.

And the rear main is a 4-bolt main, but
it only uses half-inch diameter bolts.

So they're a different torque than the
other three here.

And again, there's nothing to line this
up so you can feel it there.

And also have to make sure it's lined up
even on the front here.

Yeah, that one doesn't feel quite right.

Tap that yourself a little bit, work
with that, see if you can get it so it

feels a little bit better while I set up
the gauge.

Okay, it will not.

Snug it down and we'll see what it
measures like.

Okay, when I go sideways that way, we're
about plus one.

I go this way, we're minus one.

So it needs to come this way.

It doesn't want to go that way.

You know that's where these bolts torque
down.

It has kind of rolled a little bit of
metal over there. It may be enough there

that it's holding it.

Keeping it from going.

Okay, well just for fun, let's torque it
down and measure it.

You think that's the right cap?

Well, that's what I'm beginning to
wonder. Have we got a block with the

wrong cap on it?

Glad we did the head.

We'll figure out how to make it work.

Well, we're right on the money up and
down.

I say we're right on the money, right in
the middle of the spec, in the vertical

direction. That's our important
direction.

So what are we there?

About three tight.

Okay, come over this way.

We're about on the money there.

So, something is not quite right with
that cap.

Maybe that's why, maybe they did
purposely put that other bearing in

there. We'll never know.

Only thing I know is we have to deal
with what we've got right now.

Vertical, it's on the money.

Yeah. So what gives?

Well, it could be a situation where the
bolt holes in this cap are a little bit

tight compared to the bolt itself.

Have I got enough oomph to break loose
that much torque?

What was I telling you earlier today
about you don't have to use the excuse

of being a wimp anymore because you can
qualify as a senior citizen?

I told somebody I couldn't lift
something because I was just a wimp.

And Nicholas, thanks a lot, pointed out
right away that I'm a senior citizen.

So I could use that for an excuse.

It just almost feels like the cap is a
little bit narrow for the block.

But see, that's the other thing. Look at
that bolt is tight in there.

That one's not.

Let's, I think it's rolled the metal
over on the top just a little bit.

Let me take a reamer and go in there and
try to take that out just a little bit.

I've got a reamer here that's actually a
little bit loose on the bottom side of

that. But when it gets up to the top.

it's tight because the metal is rolled
over.

Caps have been on and off too many
times.

Not

a

lot, but a little bit there.

Yeah, I can still feel it.

Okay, we're looking good that direction.

Let me roll over your way.

Yeah, we're still tight that direction.

And when I come over here,

i'm still just a little loose well i'm
not going to do it right now but i think

if we go through those with the ream and
open those bolt holes up just a little

bit so the cap can move i think we can
make it work okay so let's move

on and check that back one but it does
make you wonder if that almost is not

the right cap or something yeah it up
and down it fits Yeah, up and down it

fits really nice.

But sideways there, it's a little
questionable.

This one has dowels.

I'm going to open those bolt holes up.

See if I can make that fit before we get
ready to assemble it.

I think I can get it closer.

And it may end up being a deal that we
have to kind of hand fit it.

i was just thinking about this this
front cap the good thing here is our

vertical direct dimension is correct and
it's not that the cap is way too wide or

way too narrow it's just not aligned
side to side so i have confidence that

if we open these bolt holes up just a
little bit maybe just put it on the

cylinder on the pin hone over there and
i can hone those bolt holes out just a

little bit i have confidence i can get
that cap to where it will at least have

equal clearance on both sides.

And again, our vertical is what we're
concerned about.

It makes you wonder if it was just a
mistake or if they

put the right size bearings in and it
was misaligned like that.

Misaligned and it was too tight with the
30 and 30.

But instead of measuring and fixing it
right, they were like, oh, let's try a

20. And they put a 20 in and everything
worked good. Or it felt good. I won't

say worked good. It felt good. The crank
turned. The crank went from not turning

to turning.

Yeah, which is a good thing. And in some
shops, that's, hey, let's go for it. I

don't know.

Yeah, we have no idea.

All we can do is wish we knew. Yeah,
wish we knew. But all we can do here is

make speculation.

Again, zero is the middle of spec.

We can go a half thousandths either side
of that.

I think we're real good there.

On the rear main? Yeah.

And if we go side to side, what do you
see there?

Whoops, I've got to hold that up, give
it a little.

Oh, tenths. Yeah, tenths from being on.

We go the other direction here.

Maybe a half.

Yeah. But again, probably misalignment.
Right. So this block does not require

shims.

With the exception of that front main,
everything measures well within

spec, especially this type of engine and
the age of this engine.

So let's go ahead and put it in the
hone.

Let's get our cylinders finished.

And after we're done honing the
cylinders and at the point where I'm

putting in the cam bearings or you're
putting in the cam bearings, whoever

ends up doing that, let's hone. We'll go
over on the pin hone and we'll hone

those holes out just a little bit and
check this again before we assemble it.

But I'm confident we can make it work
with a set of 30 under bearings.

So these are 180 grit diamonds right
now.

which should be pretty coarse.

One thing that's funny on this is
somebody almost

screwed that cylinder up big time.

Yeah. Do you see that? Yeah, looking at
that, they started boring and they were

not centered.

So that tells me most likely at some
point in time this was bored with a...

maybe like an old Van Norman boring
block, or boring bar, which were very,

very common.

That's what we started out with.

They mount on the deck surface of the
block, and it was not uncommon to have

something happen, not get it centered
right, or bolted down right, and you

start boring and realize it's
off-center.

So they started out just a little bit
there off-center, but they got it

stopped in time before it made any
permanent damage.

Just a cosmetic thing there.

And no one else would even know what
that was if they had not done that

themselves. Yeah.

Okay, so we've set the block up, mounted
off the pan rails here, bar through the

mains. Mains are still torqued on the
block, bolted down solid in the machine.

So we got to measure our cylinder
length.

What is that, seven and a quarter?

So there's a...

gauge up in here where we set the stroke
length.

I think there's seven and a quarter.

You check for very top of stroke, which
I'm at, and then they are supposed to

overstroke five-eighths of an inch, so
I've got a piece of metal here that is

real close to five-eighths, or is that
right? Yeah, five-eighths, okay. With

these stones. With these stones, okay.

So you know that... This is not quite 5
eighths. Yeah, it's a little shy of 5

eighths, so I'm going to fudge just a
little bit above right there. Okay.

There's nothing in the bottom because
it'll overstroke out the bottom 5

eighths of an inch too. We already
checked.

There's nothing. There's no webs or
anything in this like there is V8 block.

Get the spreadsheet out? Yeah. Get your
sheet out there, and let's see what we

need to do on.

Spindle speed and stroke length and
stroke speed.

So our stroke is 725?

Yeah. Our bore diameter is 3.622.

Stone length over stroke.

Is it on 57 and 125 right now?

57 stroke rate and 125?

Okay, that'll give a 43 degree
crosshatch angle. Okay.

Let's see how it looks. Okay, so we do
have this belt set on 125 spindle speed,

and this belt here, 57 strokes per
minute.

Okay, I'm just going to comment on the
torque plate thing, because I know

people are going to question this.

First off, if anybody can find where you
can buy a torque plate for

a 1956 235 that's not custom,

let me know put it in the comments
because nobody makes one that's that's

just all there is to it is this type of
engine it's not going to make a big deal

well that's it when you uh don't have
any more horsepower than this had when

it was brand new what little percent of
a game you might see what are you going

to go from 100 horsepower to a hundred
and a half horsepower yeah and you're

not

there's only like three bolt holes that
are even close to the cylinders so i

would imagine the distortion is honestly
not significant anyway where you see is

like your 400 small block chevy yeah
right i mean there's no material between

where the bolt hole is the threads are
literally in the side of the cylinder

wall yeah and that's one that you always
use a torque yeah yeah we've always used

torque plates on them yeah So that's
just a little tidbit of my opinion

there.

Just checking to make sure I don't hit
anything.

Look, it is going to fill it up.

It does fill it up.

Yeah. Well,

that's okay. That'll wash it good.

What

do

you see?

It's on.

It looks pretty straight. The stone's
touched everywhere for the most part.

There's maybe a little bit of
discoloration right up there.

but obviously really not any wear no in
the cylinder no there's no wear

and actually looks like whoever honed
that the last time made a pretty

straight cylinder we did already check
all of the cylinders with the bore gauge

seemed like we were between half to one
thousandth over the nominal sixty

thousandths oversize so

We don't want to open it up a ton, but
we just want to make sure that they're

nice and straight and see if we can get
a good surface finish on them for our

new piston rings.

Solid one plus.

Yeah, I'm guessing by the time you get
done here with where that block was when

we started.

what you're gonna have to take out to
get a good cross hatch in there we're

probably gonna be probably one a minimum
of one if not

one and a half or a little bit better
additional clearance from one from

minimum and that'll be fine this
cylinder that we haven't touched yet

it's easily one one extra already yeah

So the one I still haven't, you know,
haven't really taken

anything to speak of.

Yeah, and it's going to be pretty hard
to get a crosshatch in there without

opening it up half to one.

I'd like to see you get rid of all this
dark. Yeah.

Even if that means it's a little bit on
the loose side.

It's hard to tell there, kind of smudged
it, but everything looks good all the

way around here.

I think that's a good spot to leave it
with our rough stones there.

And just for reference on our bore size,

that gauge may or may not be in focus.

But we're going to end up pretty close
to one and a half

loose from nominal minimum spec.

Pretty straight too.

They're tighter at the bottom from the
start, so it's always kind of

hard to straighten that out.

Straighten it out without removing a lot
of material.

Yeah, exactly.

You can only work with what you've got.

kind of thing yeah so should i just go
through i just go through and make them

whatever you did there make them all
look just like that okay well i ran this

until it stopped theoretically i should
be able to do that again i was just

afraid no more and you're going you know
sometimes it stops right before the

click or right after but it never really
took more than

It never took an excessive amount.

Yeah. I still see a little bit of dark
at the top.

Yeah, I can see from here where the
piston ran anyway.

It's hard when you have something new.

It takes a little while to gain trust in
your machine. Yeah.

You know, tell them about the hose on
the pump on this thing.

So I've had this machine for 30 years.

And from day one, it has never flowed
the amount of oil for

coolant here that I thought it should.

You know, I always thought it was the
filters plugged or something. You change

the filters, didn't make any difference.

But yet...

I mean, it was enough. It worked fine.

So in the course of changing this thing
over for the diamonds and changing over

the different oil, I'm in the back of
this machine changing the filters, and I

look up in there, and lo and behold, the
hose that comes from the pump

up to the filters has got a big old huge
kink in it. It's been

that way all these years.

so we changed out that hose and man it's
amazing how much more oil flows through

this thing now the load meter when it
when a cylinder is nice and straight

this needle runs pretty dang true and
the block we were doing

the first block we did with this head
that needle did not freaking budge

no it was it was it almost looked like
it was broke yeah we were like okay it's

stuck

On this, they're not quite as straight,
and we don't have enough room to get

them as straight.

But if we could take two or three thou
out of this, I think it'd be doing the

same thing.

Kind of watch as we start compared to as
it gets closer to finished.

You'll notice it.

are we already there might be

i

think i just pushed out too

much pressure to start with

i've always been told

that if you can keep that needle under
uh 10

On that load meter, they always figured
your cylinder was pretty straight.

And with these diamond stones, it's very
easy to keep it there.

And the eight stone head on top. And I
don't mean under 10 on the scale. I mean

a range of movement of 10.

Yeah.

What about 10 over clearance?

10 over clearance? Yeah. Is that what we
need?

Is that what we've got?

10 tenths.

10 tenths, that sounds fine.

This cylinder actually is pretty dang
straight though. Except right there at

the top it gets pretty loose.

Yeah, well that's what I noticed. Every
one of them was loose at the top.

Sort of between one and one and a half.

That looks fine.

i just can't believe how effortlessly
straight this makes them yeah

you're not fighting that fine line
between too much pressure

that makes the cylinder go all wonky and
not enough pressure glazing the stones

over yeah and maybe if you did the same
block all day long all week long

you'd figure out just exactly which
stone grit and hardness grade, made it

work, but we never do two of the same
twice.

Yeah, you run it and let it, I'm going
to call it spark out, but run until it

stops according to the dial here twice.

They're all exactly the same.

You got your little hook?

Do I need my little hook?

Yeah. I don't think I do.

So these are 600 grit CBN.

65 18 and 54 on the RK so we could maybe
go two more strokes and see what

it does

I

Almost think we do that 16 RPK

We could go a little bit more, but I
don't know that we need to.

67, it looked like our RVK didn't change
a whole lot, and our RK is 45.

I think that's probably good.

Okay. So I'm going to do two more on
that cylinder, and then I'm going to do

the rest.

Okay. I'm going to do like seven slash
eight on the rest.

So on the diamonds, I'm kind of using
the, I don't know, what do you call it?

It's the scale up here to...

in the auto stop to just stop it at the
same point of feeding out the stones

and that works pretty good to get them
all the exact same size now that we have

the CV ends in we're just doing our
plateau and we're actually only removing

you know maybe if I look here like we're
really not removing

any material at all to speak of So
rather than using the scale on here, I'm

just counting how many strokes, and then
we kind of checked.

And if you want to get a little bit
lower peak numbers, you can go more

strokes.

If you want less peak, you can go less
strokes. But I think we kind of figured

out here that seven strokes is probably
going to be our ticket.

So I'm going to do two on the third
cylinder over here, but the rest of

them, they're getting seven.

So I'll just turn it up until I feel
pressure and kind of can hear it and

count seven strokes and it'll be done.

Two, three, four, five, six, seven.

Now this cylinder I still need to do two
more because we started with five on it.

Might have been three.

It's not like thousands of people will
see this.

I accidentally might have had a little
more pressure on that one, so we'll see

what that does to the numbers.

with the diamonds and the cbn in this
eight stone head i think it

just takes a lot of the variability out
of it but it with this machine it's

still going to take finesse right just
not as much finesse yeah

They have a nice feel.

Can you feel the peaks and valleys?

Ow, yes.

Shut the hell up.

Isn't that funny the way that oil...
It's like soapy. Yeah.

I like it though. I could wash my hands
in it.

I'm gonna say we are pretty freakin
straight and anywhere between I'll call

it one to one and a half but it's really
more like one two to one and a half okay

that's good across all of them that's
good okay I have got this customers

invoice open cylinder one RVK yeah 68

.25 our K is 37.97 And RPK.

11.70.

RVK. 65.70.

RK.

43.0. And RPK.

12.04.

I can just see it in your head. How did
I do this for 41 years?

Do you know how many 235 Chevys I sent
out of here?

Actually, not that many.

They were pretty much gone. Yeah.

Already? They were already gone for the
most part.

And I remember doing quite a few heads
early on for them. And then it turned

into the deal. The last few years has
been restoration stuff just like this

is. Yeah.

RVK. 52.7.

RK.

37.36.

And RPK.

13.03.

RVK. 67.85.

RK. 45.88.

And RPK.

15.06.

Okay, RVK.

77.84.

And RK.

43.97.

And RPK.

13.59. So that one has a little more
value for whatever reason.

RVK, 54.61.

RK.

39.50.

RPK. 12.43.

Well, that, I think, looks a lot better
than when it came in.

Yeah. Yeah, it's definitely, we've
definitely made some improvements.

When it came in, it had gone 10 miles
farther than this one has.

That's true.

But I think I'm impressed with the new
diamond head.

mean these are all consistent size
straight up and down our surface finish

numbers i think we're still going to
have to play with the diamonds and

pressures and just get some more
experience with it but i'm happy with