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AmericasCardroom.com brings poker back
Million Dollar Sunday Tournament every Sunday
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Over one third of our planet
is frozen,
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and yet, the icy worlds
of the Arctic and Antarctic
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are as alien to most of us
as the surface
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of another planet.
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They are places of superlatives.
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From ice caps that hold nearly 80%
of our planet's fresh water
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00:01:13,560 --> 00:01:18,360
to frozen forests
that encircle the entire globe.
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These are places
that feed our imaginations,
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places that seem to be borrowed
from fairy tales.
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They're dominated and shaped
by the ice...
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both by its coming
and by its going.
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This is our planet's
last true wilderness
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and one that is changing just as
we're beginning to understand it.
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In this series, we'll be travelling
to all parts of these lonely lands,
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both north and south,
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to witness its wonders
perhaps for the last time
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and to discover
some extraordinary examples
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of survival against all the odds,
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as can be found anywhere
on the planet.
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The poles are permanently
capped with ice.
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Nowhere is colder,
windier or more hostile to life.
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I'm standing at the North Pole ...
the very top of the Earth.
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Up here, it's easy to see
why the polar regions are so cold.
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The sun never rises high enough
in the sky to warm my back
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and those rays
that do strike the surface
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are mostly reflected back
from this great whiteness.
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But the fundamental problem is that
there's no sun here at all
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for half the year.
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The polar winter is unrivalled
in its harshness.
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A night that lasts for months.
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Only the toughest stay,
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as temperatures plunge
to minus 70 degrees centigrade.
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00:03:35,680 --> 00:03:40,439
And yet, the greatest challenge
to life here is not the cold,
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but the extreme swings
between the seasons.
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When the sun finally returns,
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an extraordinary
transformation begins.
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This frozen world
begins to melt away.
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00:04:00,080 --> 00:04:03,680
The polar spring brings
a brief opportunity for life.
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By summer, the sun no longer sets
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and works its magic
for 24 hours a day.
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Now it's a race to breed
before the sun departs.
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By autumn, all but the hardiest
abandon the poles
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and the ice extends its grip.
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Land and sea close down
for the long, polar winter,
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until, once again, the sun returns.
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It's spring in the High Arctic
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and the sun illuminates
a giant frozen ocean,
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the first stop on our journey.
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The most powerful land predator
is on the prowl.
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A male polar bear
is searching for a mate.
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Willing females
are few and far between
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and the sea ice on which he travels
will soon melt and vanish.
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He's running out of time to find
a mate in this vast, frozen desert.
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Ten miles ahead,
a single female without cubs...
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exactly what the male is seeking.
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He seems to relish her scent,
even though she's miles away.
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This is an exciting prospect.
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She's clearly giving off
the right signals.
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He locks onto her tracks,
eager not to lose her trail.
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It's easier to tread in
the compacted snow of her footprints.
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This pursuit could last for days.
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The female eventually
comes into view.
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The search is finally over.
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For the female, only half his weight,
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this must be
a nerve-racking encounter.
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The male could kill her
if he chooses.
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But he has other intentions...
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and she is ready and willing.
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She leads him to higher ground.
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It seems that courting polar bears
prefer privacy,
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often leaving the sea ice
and heading for the hills
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to avoid the prying eyes
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of rival males
who might disturb them.
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Few have witnessed this moment.
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For the male,
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his only tender encounter
in an otherwise solitary life.
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But it doesn't last long...
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a rival suitor has also
caught the female's scent.
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Courtship has to be put on hold.
He must fight for his rights.
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THEY ROAR
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He sees off this first challenger
without injury to either party,
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00:08:28,040 --> 00:08:30,720
but bloodier battles are to come.
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THEY ROAR
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Another battle won,
though he has been slightly injured.
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He hurries back to his mate,
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but now she seems to have
lost her enthusiasm.
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Female polar bears
are high-maintenance.
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Wherever she goes, he will follow,
mating with her when she allows
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00:09:32,800 --> 00:09:35,200
and guarding her at all times.
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Over the next two weeks,
the male sees off many rivals
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but the battles
take their toll on him.
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He is almost spent,
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00:10:02,880 --> 00:10:07,240
but he has ensured that no other
bears have mated with his female.
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It's time for the couple
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00:10:13,360 --> 00:10:15,799
to go their separate ways.
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00:10:15,800 --> 00:10:21,159
She will give birth to his cubs,
alone, in nine months' time
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00:10:21,160 --> 00:10:23,640
and he may never see her again.
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00:10:25,840 --> 00:10:28,359
He returns to the frozen ocean,
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00:10:28,360 --> 00:10:31,719
no doubt relieved
to resume his solitary ways,
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and just in time.
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The ice beneath his feet
will soon be gone.
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00:10:41,120 --> 00:10:43,799
Each spring,
the Arctic Ocean undergoes
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an extraordinary transformation.
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An area of sea ice
the size of Europe melts,
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exposing the rich waters beneath.
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00:10:56,160 --> 00:10:59,559
Short-tailed shearwaters
have travelled 10,000 miles
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from Australia to be here.
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18 million visitors darken the skies,
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the largest gathering of sea birds
on the planet.
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00:11:31,120 --> 00:11:35,079
Humpback whales have come
all the way from the Equator
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to feed in these rich, polar waters.
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Their giant tails
are five metres across.
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Simply raising them above the surface
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gives the whales
enough downward momentum
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to reach the great swarms
of krill and herring below.
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The shearwaters follow
the giants' lead.
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For those who can get here,
in summer,
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these waters provide a feast
of epic proportions.
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00:12:43,840 --> 00:12:46,599
But the good times
will be very short...
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00:12:46,600 --> 00:12:49,840
a problem that faces all life
in the polar regions.
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Journeying south
across the Arctic Ocean,
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the first land you reach
is Greenland,
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the largest island in the world.
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Despite its name,
Greenland is mostly white,
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covered by a giant ice sheet
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six times the size
of the United Kingdom.
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In the middle of the island,
the ice is nearly two miles thick.
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It's a bleak, quiet world.
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Sapphire-blue melt lakes
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are the first sign that
a dynamic process is underway.
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Each lake forms in a matter of days,
expanding until it's miles across
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and starts to overflow.
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The spill water then carves its way
through the ice.
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00:14:02,240 --> 00:14:05,399
The water courses through
an icy delta
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like blood along the arteries
of a cold-blooded monster,
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00:14:09,880 --> 00:14:12,400
a monster that is stirring.
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00:14:24,360 --> 00:14:29,519
And without warning, the water
suddenly plunges down an open shaft,
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00:14:29,520 --> 00:14:33,640
falling a vertical mile
into the heart of the ice sheet.
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00:14:57,800 --> 00:15:00,639
This meltwater has
a surprising effect...
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it lubricates the junction
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between the ice
and the rock floor beneath,
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00:15:06,520 --> 00:15:10,319
so the entire ice sheet
is now on the move,
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00:15:10,320 --> 00:15:13,360
sliding downhill into the ocean.
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00:15:15,320 --> 00:15:18,719
This, Jakobshavn Isbrae,
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00:15:18,720 --> 00:15:21,559
is the fastest-flowing glacier
on our planet,
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00:15:21,560 --> 00:15:24,440
moving as much as 40 metres a day.
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00:15:27,560 --> 00:15:31,679
As it advances,
it destroys everything in its path,
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00:15:31,680 --> 00:15:35,719
even cutting its way through
Greenland's great mountain ranges
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00:15:35,720 --> 00:15:38,760
on its drive downwards
towards the sea.
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00:15:41,840 --> 00:15:43,199
When speeded up,
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00:15:43,200 --> 00:15:47,600
these solid rivers of ice seem
to flow just like liquid rivers.
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This is the titanic force
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00:15:56,320 --> 00:16:00,080
that cuts down mountains and levels
the surface of continents.
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00:16:17,760 --> 00:16:22,680
The ice is now entering
the last stage of its descent.
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00:16:25,280 --> 00:16:26,480
As it gains speed,
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00:16:26,481 --> 00:16:30,000
huge crevasses open that
extend down to its very core.
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It's reached the ocean,
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and millions of tonnes of ice have
lost the support of their rocky bed.
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Something must give.
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CREAKING
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These icefalls are an ominous sign
of what is about to happen...
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a rupture deep within the glacier.
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A colossal iceberg is born.
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This single block of ice,
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many hundreds of metres across,
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00:18:16,080 --> 00:18:19,160
would dwarf the biggest
of mankind's buildings.
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00:18:26,320 --> 00:18:27,639
Every year,
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00:18:27,640 --> 00:18:32,279
tens of thousands of icebergs
are spawned by Greenland's glaciers,
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00:18:32,280 --> 00:18:34,479
and their number
is steadily increasing
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as the climate continues to warm.
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00:18:47,920 --> 00:18:51,719
The break-up of the bergs
fills the bays of the Arctic
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with exquisite ice sculptures.
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00:18:55,480 --> 00:19:00,280
It also releases great volumes
of cold, fresh water into the sea.
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Greenland's meltwater influences
the course of the ocean currents,
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which, in turn, has an effect
on the weather around the world.
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00:19:19,800 --> 00:19:23,879
The Arctic is closer to home
than many of us realise.
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00:19:23,880 --> 00:19:27,519
It includes the northernmost parts
of the three continents
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on which most of us live ...
Europe, Asia and North America.
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The first bare land we reach
on our journey south
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is a bleak treeless wilderness
known as tundra.
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Each spring,
animals travel up from the south,
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00:19:47,480 --> 00:19:49,799
to be ready for the rich grazing
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00:19:49,800 --> 00:19:53,000
that will be unveiled
by the spring melt.
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00:19:54,400 --> 00:19:55,640
For the caribou,
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00:19:55,641 --> 00:19:57,039
the timing is critical.
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Arrive early and a winter storm
could kill you.
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00:19:59,880 --> 00:20:02,799
Delay too long and you may fail
to lay down the fat
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needed to survive a polar winter.
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00:20:14,320 --> 00:20:16,439
Further south still,
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00:20:16,440 --> 00:20:21,640
and stooped, shrouded figures
end the flat monotony of the tundra.
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This is the tree line,
the first place on our journey
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with sufficient warmth
and liquid water
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to enable a tree to grow.
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00:20:35,240 --> 00:20:38,239
Surviving here
is so crushingly difficult,
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00:20:38,240 --> 00:20:41,239
that it can take hundreds of years
for a seedling
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to grow into a stunted shrub.
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00:20:52,160 --> 00:20:54,079
But even small trees
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00:20:54,080 --> 00:20:56,560
can provide cover for a predator.
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00:20:57,920 --> 00:21:01,119
Wolves. These, in northern Canada,
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00:21:01,120 --> 00:21:03,839
are the largest and most powerful
in the world
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00:21:03,840 --> 00:21:05,920
and they are setting out to hunt.
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00:21:10,400 --> 00:21:12,639
The pack is 25 strong,
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00:21:12,640 --> 00:21:15,720
a sign that the prey
they are seeking is formidable.
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00:21:24,560 --> 00:21:27,919
These bison are even bigger
than their southern cousins
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00:21:27,920 --> 00:21:30,559
and the largest land animals
in North America.
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00:21:30,560 --> 00:21:34,719
For generations,
wolves and bison here
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00:21:34,720 --> 00:21:37,399
have been shaped by their battles
with each other,
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00:21:37,400 --> 00:21:40,680
making each the most impressive
of its kind.
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00:21:42,720 --> 00:21:46,039
The bison will not stay long
among the trees.
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00:21:46,040 --> 00:21:47,840
They're not safe here.
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00:21:54,280 --> 00:21:56,079
The wolves are closing in,
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00:21:56,080 --> 00:21:59,759
but their chance of ambushing
the bison in the woods has passed.
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00:21:59,760 --> 00:22:03,840
Their prey are now in the open
and grouped together for safety.
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00:22:06,160 --> 00:22:09,599
The wolves will need
to work as a team
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00:22:09,600 --> 00:22:11,440
if they are to make a kill.
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00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:18,079
They circle the herd,
trying to unsettle it
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00:22:18,080 --> 00:22:19,320
and split it up.
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00:22:19,321 --> 00:22:21,719
But the bison are armed
and dangerous.
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00:22:21,720 --> 00:22:25,440
They will be safe as long as
they stick together.
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00:22:29,680 --> 00:22:32,959
The wolves up their game,
harrying the herd,
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00:22:32,960 --> 00:22:34,919
a ploy to trigger a stampede
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00:22:34,920 --> 00:22:37,240
and split away
one of the smaller ones.
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00:22:39,840 --> 00:22:43,639
The bison form a defensive circle
around their young,
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00:22:43,640 --> 00:22:46,240
horns pointing outwards.
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00:22:50,280 --> 00:22:54,080
The wolves need a bison
to break rank.
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00:23:00,320 --> 00:23:04,120
But the tables are turning
and now the wolves have to retreat.
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00:23:07,520 --> 00:23:10,679
The pack focus their attention
on the rear of the herd
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00:23:10,680 --> 00:23:12,560
and the bison begin to panic.
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00:23:47,480 --> 00:23:50,000
A young bison falls behind.
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00:23:55,800 --> 00:23:58,640
Even this yearling dwarfs the wolves.
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00:24:06,760 --> 00:24:10,240
Running head-down,
the herd's only thought is escape.
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00:24:15,520 --> 00:24:17,800
A stroke of luck for the wolves.
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00:24:31,120 --> 00:24:34,479
The kill will feed the pack
for several days.
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00:24:34,480 --> 00:24:37,799
But then they will have
to resume the chase.
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00:24:37,800 --> 00:24:40,199
At the frozen ends of our planet,
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00:24:40,200 --> 00:24:43,320
the struggle for survival
never eases.
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00:24:53,640 --> 00:24:57,319
South of the tree line,
the winters are shorter,
239
00:24:57,320 --> 00:25:03,279
so trees grow faster and taller
and forests begin to appear.
240
00:25:03,280 --> 00:25:09,519
As the warm, humid air from the south
meets the cold, arctic air,
241
00:25:09,520 --> 00:25:14,640
the moisture it carries crystallises
and snowflakes fall from the sky.
242
00:25:17,680 --> 00:25:21,520
Each crystal forms around
a particle of dust.
243
00:25:27,040 --> 00:25:29,399
All have a six-fold symmetry
244
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:33,200
but no two have ever been found
with exactly the same shape.
245
00:25:41,520 --> 00:25:45,000
Their variety and complexity
is breathtaking.
246
00:25:50,760 --> 00:25:55,639
Each snowflake is water waiting
to be released in spring.
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00:25:55,640 --> 00:25:56,880
For this reason,
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00:25:56,881 --> 00:26:00,359
snow is the lifeblood
of these silent forests
249
00:26:00,360 --> 00:26:04,320
and all that live here depend on it
in one way or another.
250
00:26:11,000 --> 00:26:17,279
Some, like the great grey owl,
appear in spring for the boom times,
251
00:26:17,280 --> 00:26:19,680
then vanish like phantoms.
252
00:26:22,680 --> 00:26:25,359
Others, like their lemming prey,
253
00:26:25,360 --> 00:26:30,000
are here year-round beneath the snow,
insulated from the cold air above.
254
00:26:51,280 --> 00:26:53,999
The northern forests
are a crossroads
255
00:26:54,000 --> 00:26:57,280
for seasonal visitors
and arctic specialists.
256
00:26:58,600 --> 00:27:00,839
But they are so much more than this.
257
00:27:00,840 --> 00:27:05,159
Together, they make up the taiga,
an unbroken belt of forest
258
00:27:05,160 --> 00:27:08,679
that stretches 7,000 miles
around our planet
259
00:27:08,680 --> 00:27:12,600
and contains one third
of all the trees on Earth.
260
00:27:22,720 --> 00:27:26,919
The taiga forest marks the end
of our journey through the Arctic,
261
00:27:26,920 --> 00:27:31,040
from the frozen ocean down across
the lands that surround it.
262
00:27:39,720 --> 00:27:45,359
The other end of our planet,
the Antarctic, is starkly different.
263
00:27:45,360 --> 00:27:48,800
A frozen continent
completely surrounded by ocean.
264
00:27:51,360 --> 00:27:53,599
Icebergs here are so large
265
00:27:53,600 --> 00:27:57,199
that they're measured in miles
not metres.
266
00:27:57,200 --> 00:28:00,599
They're the only obstacles
in the path of giant waves,
267
00:28:00,600 --> 00:28:04,400
which circle around the continent
unchecked by other lands.
268
00:28:19,320 --> 00:28:22,879
These seas may be cold
and storm-racked
269
00:28:22,880 --> 00:28:25,160
but they're bursting with life.
270
00:28:53,560 --> 00:28:56,519
No bird is more at home in water
271
00:28:56,520 --> 00:28:59,680
and they are masterful surfers.
272
00:29:04,320 --> 00:29:09,479
Penguins are found only
in the Southern Hemisphere.
273
00:29:09,480 --> 00:29:13,759
They can't fly,
but they don't need to.
274
00:29:13,760 --> 00:29:16,080
There are no polar bears here.
275
00:29:24,720 --> 00:29:26,879
These are Gentoo Penguins.
276
00:29:26,880 --> 00:29:31,719
Each spring, they come ashore to lay
their eggs and rear their young.
277
00:29:31,720 --> 00:29:34,759
Their hungry chicks
demand so much seafood
278
00:29:34,760 --> 00:29:37,920
that both parents have to go fishing.
279
00:29:42,480 --> 00:29:45,520
And fishing can be dangerous.
280
00:30:00,960 --> 00:30:03,400
A southern sea lion.
281
00:30:07,360 --> 00:30:12,080
It uses the speed of a breaking wave
to catch up with the Gentoos.
282
00:30:27,560 --> 00:30:29,479
Sea lions normally eat fish,
283
00:30:29,480 --> 00:30:32,479
so he's used to catching
streamlined swimmers,
284
00:30:32,480 --> 00:30:36,759
but the Gentoos seem more
than his match out at sea.
285
00:30:36,760 --> 00:30:38,240
He must change tactics.
286
00:30:42,520 --> 00:30:46,000
Perhaps it will be easier
in the shallows.
287
00:31:08,520 --> 00:31:12,040
But no! It seems penguins
are uncatchable in water.
288
00:31:18,680 --> 00:31:19,920
How about on land?
289
00:31:21,560 --> 00:31:24,919
The penguin's wings,
so powerful for swimming,
290
00:31:24,920 --> 00:31:27,639
are of no help
when it comes to running.
291
00:31:27,640 --> 00:31:30,240
Now, surely,
the sea lion has a chance.
292
00:31:35,800 --> 00:31:39,040
But on the beach,
both are like fish out of water.
293
00:32:01,760 --> 00:32:06,279
Rarely do hunter and hunted play
their roles with so little skill.
294
00:32:06,280 --> 00:32:08,400
The outcome is anyone's guess.
295
00:32:44,200 --> 00:32:45,679
Every summer,
296
00:32:45,680 --> 00:32:49,720
over 40 million penguins
take to the Southern Ocean to feed.
297
00:32:56,280 --> 00:32:59,319
They're joined by
thousands of whales.
298
00:32:59,320 --> 00:33:01,160
Minkes are the most numerous.
299
00:33:03,720 --> 00:33:07,520
They all come here to harvest
the richest ocean on Earth.
300
00:33:10,160 --> 00:33:15,000
Carrying on south, we get our first
glimpse of the frozen continent.
301
00:33:30,360 --> 00:33:34,959
Southern humpbacks, after travelling
4,000 miles from the equator,
302
00:33:34,960 --> 00:33:37,600
are finally arriving in Antarctica.
303
00:33:42,800 --> 00:33:46,559
Humans have long felt the lure
of this mysterious world,
304
00:33:46,560 --> 00:33:49,279
yet it was only
a hundred years ago
305
00:33:49,280 --> 00:33:53,319
that the first explorers
walked inland and were confronted by
306
00:33:53,320 --> 00:33:57,360
the highest, driest
and coldest territory on Earth.
307
00:34:02,840 --> 00:34:05,639
Every year,
the continent is transformed
308
00:34:05,640 --> 00:34:09,200
as the sea ice that surrounds it
begins to disappear.
309
00:34:18,160 --> 00:34:22,040
This melt halves
the size of Antarctica.
310
00:34:24,160 --> 00:34:27,439
It's the most spectacular
seasonal change occurring
311
00:34:27,440 --> 00:34:29,960
anywhere on our planet.
312
00:34:33,360 --> 00:34:37,359
The remnants of the sea ice
are occupied by sunbathing seals
313
00:34:37,360 --> 00:34:39,480
that have been here all winter.
314
00:34:41,600 --> 00:34:45,879
But new arrivals are following
the retreating ice edge
315
00:34:45,880 --> 00:34:48,640
and they have come here to hunt.
316
00:34:56,120 --> 00:34:59,160
Killer whales,
the ocean's top predator.
317
00:35:01,080 --> 00:35:02,999
Killers are like wolves,
318
00:35:03,000 --> 00:35:06,319
for they will hunt animals
far larger than themselves.
319
00:35:06,320 --> 00:35:10,000
But even smaller prey are a problem
if you can't reach them.
320
00:35:15,640 --> 00:35:17,880
The solution is teamwork.
321
00:35:19,160 --> 00:35:23,559
Swimming in perfect formation,
they flick their tails in unison
322
00:35:23,560 --> 00:35:26,600
and create a wave
that cracks the ice.
323
00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:40,520
They regroup and assess the damage.
A more powerful wave is needed.
324
00:35:46,080 --> 00:35:49,080
The ice floe is breaking up.
325
00:35:50,480 --> 00:35:54,359
Now they are close enough to get
a good look at their target.
326
00:35:54,360 --> 00:35:58,519
The seal is a crabeater,
sharp-toothed and feisty.
327
00:35:58,520 --> 00:35:59,840
Not their favourite.
328
00:36:03,760 --> 00:36:07,720
The wolves of the sea
move on in search of easier quarry.
329
00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:15,999
A Weddell seal. That's better.
330
00:36:16,000 --> 00:36:18,920
These are more docile
and easier to tackle.
331
00:36:22,280 --> 00:36:25,800
The pod stays close together
and travels silently.
332
00:36:28,120 --> 00:36:31,519
This time, they unleash
a far more powerful wave,
333
00:36:31,520 --> 00:36:33,720
and with astonishing accuracy.
334
00:36:40,320 --> 00:36:44,279
These big waves are not intended
to break the ice,
335
00:36:44,280 --> 00:36:48,160
but to knock the prey into
the water, and they rarely fail.
336
00:37:33,720 --> 00:37:36,519
The seal is now
where the killers want it,
337
00:37:36,520 --> 00:37:40,680
but the hunt is far from over.
338
00:37:43,400 --> 00:37:45,679
They need to grab their prey
by the tail
339
00:37:45,680 --> 00:37:47,559
while avoiding its snapping jaws.
340
00:37:47,560 --> 00:37:51,680
Only then will they be able
to pull it down and drown it.
341
00:37:55,640 --> 00:38:00,080
Sideswipes create violent
underwater turbulence, a new tactic.
342
00:38:07,320 --> 00:38:11,880
Blowing bubbles gives cover for
others to lunge at the seal's tail.
343
00:38:20,680 --> 00:38:23,760
Somehow, the seal manages
to reach a tiny ice floe.
344
00:38:29,240 --> 00:38:31,479
The killers could easily grab it,
345
00:38:31,480 --> 00:38:34,040
but now this seems to
have become a game.
346
00:38:36,080 --> 00:38:39,880
The seal's life
hangs on a roll of the ice.
347
00:38:52,240 --> 00:38:56,000
Yet again, the pod joins forces
to dislodge the seal.
348
00:39:13,160 --> 00:39:16,440
The seal sees a chance to escape.
349
00:39:20,760 --> 00:39:24,919
Exhausted, it no longer has
the energy to pull itself to safety
350
00:39:24,920 --> 00:39:27,800
and the killers are moving in.
351
00:39:35,680 --> 00:39:38,120
Game over.
352
00:39:50,480 --> 00:39:55,239
Although such team hunts are
rarely seen, scientists believe
353
00:39:55,240 --> 00:39:59,319
they may be the most complex ever
documented in the natural world.
354
00:39:59,320 --> 00:40:02,639
They were first witnessed
by Captain Scott and his men
355
00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:05,840
when they came to explore Antarctica
100 years ago.
356
00:40:09,960 --> 00:40:13,959
Journeying further south,
the fragmenting ice is replaced
357
00:40:13,960 --> 00:40:18,440
by a permanent sheet that doesn't
melt even at the height of summer.
358
00:40:20,080 --> 00:40:24,160
It's a barrier that
many creatures find impassable.
359
00:40:26,000 --> 00:40:28,919
It repels even
powerful minke whales.
360
00:40:28,920 --> 00:40:30,239
They have to turn back
361
00:40:30,240 --> 00:40:33,920
if they can no longer reach the air
they need to breathe.
362
00:40:40,840 --> 00:40:46,600
Under the ice, life has to be
extremely specialised to survive.
363
00:40:47,640 --> 00:40:53,599
Few of us will ever experience
this strangely-still world,
364
00:40:53,600 --> 00:40:56,280
and, as yet,
no-one knows much about it.
365
00:41:01,760 --> 00:41:04,959
The crystalline surface
of the ice stalactites
366
00:41:04,960 --> 00:41:09,400
provides a home for ice fish whose
bodies are full of anti-freeze.
367
00:41:14,360 --> 00:41:17,079
The ceiling of ice
shields those living below it
368
00:41:17,080 --> 00:41:22,079
from the violent polar weather
that rages above.
369
00:41:22,080 --> 00:41:24,760
Little here has changed
for millions of years.
370
00:41:28,280 --> 00:41:33,360
The cold allows animals to grow
very slowly and become giants.
371
00:41:48,760 --> 00:41:53,880
A relative of the woodlouse
is the size of a dinner plate.
372
00:41:55,480 --> 00:42:00,640
And this so-called "sea spider"
has legs that span half a metre.
373
00:42:03,400 --> 00:42:07,199
Now explorers
are revealing other worlds
374
00:42:07,200 --> 00:42:10,520
that lie hidden beneath the ice
on land.
375
00:42:14,040 --> 00:42:18,560
These smoking towers are the gateway
to a network of caves.
376
00:42:21,280 --> 00:42:25,199
Each contains an extraordinary
assembly of ice crystals,
377
00:42:25,200 --> 00:42:27,560
unlike any other on Earth.
378
00:42:34,680 --> 00:42:40,119
Like snowflakes,
every crystal is unique.
379
00:42:40,120 --> 00:42:43,240
Some are taller than a man.
380
00:42:45,640 --> 00:42:48,719
Others are thought to harbour life,
381
00:42:48,720 --> 00:42:53,400
seeded by strange bacteria that
thrive in these extreme conditions.
382
00:42:55,560 --> 00:42:58,519
The breeze that gently sways
these crystals
383
00:42:58,520 --> 00:43:01,279
is responsible for making them.
384
00:43:01,280 --> 00:43:03,760
It's steam from
the molten heart of Mount Erebus,
385
00:43:03,761 --> 00:43:06,720
the most southerly volcano
on our planet.
386
00:43:19,200 --> 00:43:22,959
It's now thought that the ice caves
fringing this crater
387
00:43:22,960 --> 00:43:26,840
may even be a home for
hitherto-unknown life forms.
388
00:43:31,400 --> 00:43:35,479
From this oasis of warmth
at the edge of the continent,
389
00:43:35,480 --> 00:43:39,120
our journey continues inland
towards the South Pole.
390
00:43:40,200 --> 00:43:41,719
The first great hurdle
391
00:43:41,720 --> 00:43:45,640
is the formidable
Transantarctic mountain range.
392
00:43:47,640 --> 00:43:51,239
We are following the route
taken by Scott and Amundsen
393
00:43:51,240 --> 00:43:53,839
as they struggled
to become the first humans
394
00:43:53,840 --> 00:43:55,480
to reach the South Pole.
395
00:44:00,480 --> 00:44:02,399
They were travelling on foot
396
00:44:02,400 --> 00:44:05,199
and their first sight
of these mountains
397
00:44:05,200 --> 00:44:07,239
must have been daunting indeed.
398
00:44:07,240 --> 00:44:10,559
In front of them stretched
one of the world's longest ranges,
399
00:44:10,560 --> 00:44:15,200
spanning 2,000 miles from one
side of the continent to the other.
400
00:44:18,840 --> 00:44:21,639
The winds up here
are the fastest on Earth.
401
00:44:21,640 --> 00:44:24,000
They reach speeds
of 200 miles an hour.
402
00:44:28,120 --> 00:44:31,679
An ice-capped mountain
bears the scars of the gales,
403
00:44:31,680 --> 00:44:35,160
bizarre sculptures
carved from solid ice.
404
00:44:46,760 --> 00:44:49,040
It's not only the ice that yields.
405
00:44:50,120 --> 00:44:54,039
This sculptured spire
is the remnant of a mountain,
406
00:44:54,040 --> 00:44:58,040
eroded from all sides
by the ferocious elements.
407
00:45:01,640 --> 00:45:06,640
Beyond, a wholly unexpected
landscape ... the dry valleys.
408
00:45:13,680 --> 00:45:16,679
Only 1% of Antarctica
is free of ice,
409
00:45:16,680 --> 00:45:19,880
and most of that bare rock is here.
410
00:45:27,120 --> 00:45:30,119
The Dry Valleys are more
like the surface of Mars
411
00:45:30,120 --> 00:45:32,480
than is any other place on Earth.
412
00:45:41,200 --> 00:45:45,359
The floor is covered with
extraordinary natural sculptures,
413
00:45:45,360 --> 00:45:49,920
created by the same winds that help
to keep these valleys free of snow.
414
00:45:53,520 --> 00:45:57,679
Over time, entire boulders
are weathered from the inside out,
415
00:45:57,680 --> 00:46:00,280
until just a shell remains.
416
00:46:05,200 --> 00:46:09,400
At the head of these valleys,
the ice is making a breakthrough.
417
00:46:12,640 --> 00:46:17,560
Millions of tons are tumbling
in slow motion into the valley.
418
00:46:27,680 --> 00:46:32,800
These ice blocks
are the size of skyscrapers.
419
00:46:39,240 --> 00:46:42,119
And this is the Beardmore Glacier,
420
00:46:42,120 --> 00:46:46,920
which Scott and his men
somehow traversed on foot.
421
00:46:49,400 --> 00:46:52,399
It's over 100 miles long
422
00:46:52,400 --> 00:46:55,160
and one of
the largest glaciers on Earth.
423
00:47:00,480 --> 00:47:04,159
But nothing could have prepared
those early explorers
424
00:47:04,160 --> 00:47:06,600
for what they were about
to encounter.
425
00:47:13,720 --> 00:47:18,160
The Antarctic ice cap, the largest
expanse of ice on the planet.
426
00:47:19,840 --> 00:47:21,999
It's three miles thick in places
427
00:47:22,000 --> 00:47:26,840
and imprisons 70%
of the world's fresh water.
428
00:47:30,040 --> 00:47:33,639
From here to the South Pole
700 miles away,
429
00:47:33,640 --> 00:47:36,000
there is nothing but ice.
430
00:47:48,000 --> 00:47:52,359
I'm at the South Pole
at the end of my journey.
431
00:47:52,360 --> 00:47:56,599
Although it's midsummer,
the temperature here
432
00:47:56,600 --> 00:48:00,679
is a bone-chilling
35 degrees below freezing.
433
00:48:00,680 --> 00:48:04,199
It's exactly a hundred years
almost to the day
434
00:48:04,200 --> 00:48:07,759
that the first human beings
stood right here,
435
00:48:07,760 --> 00:48:10,440
Amundsen followed by Scott.
436
00:48:11,880 --> 00:48:14,279
In those days, reaching the poles
437
00:48:14,280 --> 00:48:19,599
was regarded as the ultimate in
human endeavour and endurance,
438
00:48:19,600 --> 00:48:22,320
and a source
of great national pride.
439
00:48:23,440 --> 00:48:28,079
Today, the polar regions have
a rather different significance,
440
00:48:28,080 --> 00:48:32,679
because now we've come to understand
that what happens here
441
00:48:32,680 --> 00:48:36,679
and in the north
affects every one of us,
442
00:48:36,680 --> 00:48:40,760
no matter where we live
on this planet.
443
00:49:09,160 --> 00:49:12,199
The greatest challenge
for the team making Frozen Planet
444
00:49:12,200 --> 00:49:16,119
was the extreme remoteness
of their locations.
445
00:49:16,120 --> 00:49:18,279
Many of the shoots
lasted months at a time
446
00:49:18,280 --> 00:49:21,200
and needed a number of crews
to join forces.
447
00:49:24,160 --> 00:49:27,599
One location that would require
such siege tactics
448
00:49:27,600 --> 00:49:32,079
was Mount Erebus,
Antarctica's most active volcano.
449
00:49:32,080 --> 00:49:36,040
This magical mountain does not
give up her secrets easily.
450
00:49:42,080 --> 00:49:45,399
To capture the full story
of Mount Erebus from top to bottom
451
00:49:45,400 --> 00:49:48,600
required four different film crews.
452
00:49:51,080 --> 00:49:53,959
The cave team is dropped
off at 12,000 feet,
453
00:49:53,960 --> 00:49:55,360
close to the crater.
454
00:49:59,880 --> 00:50:01,879
In howling winds and thin oxygen,
455
00:50:01,880 --> 00:50:05,640
their challenge is to find
a way into the volcano itself.
456
00:50:07,480 --> 00:50:10,439
They are venturing into the unknown.
457
00:50:10,440 --> 00:50:16,199
Somewhere below are spectacular ice
caves, melted out by volcanic steam.
458
00:50:16,200 --> 00:50:18,599
Getting the team safely underground
459
00:50:18,600 --> 00:50:21,319
is a relief for director
Chadden Hunter.
460
00:50:21,320 --> 00:50:24,759
Excellent, it's much warmer
down here, it's freezing up there.
461
00:50:24,760 --> 00:50:26,759
Minus 29.
462
00:50:26,760 --> 00:50:29,079
With him is cameraman
Gavin Thurston.
463
00:50:29,080 --> 00:50:33,639
You sort of forget being in here,
you are actually inside a volcano.
464
00:50:33,640 --> 00:50:36,999
You know, above us
and below us, there's bubbling lava
465
00:50:37,000 --> 00:50:39,759
and you've got all these gases
seeping up through here,
466
00:50:39,760 --> 00:50:41,439
which is how these caves are made,
467
00:50:41,440 --> 00:50:43,960
so there's also increased
carbon dioxide in here.
468
00:50:45,000 --> 00:50:46,919
As the cave team head deeper,
469
00:50:46,920 --> 00:50:50,039
dangerous volcanic gases
make breathing difficult.
470
00:50:50,040 --> 00:50:51,639
The clock is ticking.
471
00:50:51,640 --> 00:50:55,200
They will not have long to find
the caves of crystals.
472
00:50:57,600 --> 00:51:02,640
Above ground, the aerial team
is pushing for the summit of Erebus.
473
00:51:04,320 --> 00:51:07,719
Series producer Vanessa Berlowitz
directs from the front seat,
474
00:51:07,720 --> 00:51:10,439
while aerial cameraman Michael Kelem
475
00:51:10,440 --> 00:51:13,079
controls the camera
attached to the nose.
476
00:51:13,080 --> 00:51:15,119
We're going to be around
14,000 feet,
477
00:51:15,120 --> 00:51:17,599
on the performance limits
of this aircraft.
478
00:51:17,600 --> 00:51:19,439
Any bad weather comes in up there
479
00:51:19,440 --> 00:51:21,719
and you're pretty much screwed,
really,
480
00:51:21,720 --> 00:51:23,879
you've got to get off
the mountain fast.
481
00:51:23,880 --> 00:51:26,599
Above 10,000 feet,
the pilot must breathe oxygen
482
00:51:26,600 --> 00:51:29,239
through a plastic tube
in his nostrils.
483
00:51:29,240 --> 00:51:34,159
Approaching the crater,
conditions do not look good.
484
00:51:34,160 --> 00:51:36,959
Today, Erebus is belching out
steam and gases,
485
00:51:36,960 --> 00:51:40,279
making flying extremely risky.
486
00:51:40,280 --> 00:51:43,399
Up here, the air is so thin,
the helicopter can't hover
487
00:51:43,400 --> 00:51:44,880
and must keep moving.
488
00:51:46,440 --> 00:51:51,039
This is aerial filming
at its most extreme.
489
00:51:51,040 --> 00:51:52,800
They struggle to get a clear view.
490
00:51:55,960 --> 00:51:58,639
We're just coming up to 14,000 feet,
491
00:51:58,640 --> 00:52:01,800
you can actually look
right into the lava lake.
492
00:52:02,960 --> 00:52:06,279
Oh, that's looking really good,
Mike, just hold that there.
493
00:52:06,280 --> 00:52:09,759
The cameraman captures
a rare shot of the molten lava,
494
00:52:09,760 --> 00:52:11,680
but it's soon obscured again.
495
00:52:15,200 --> 00:52:18,039
The volcano is temperamental.
496
00:52:18,040 --> 00:52:20,439
The team have seized
a rare opportunity
497
00:52:20,440 --> 00:52:24,800
to see into its molten heart,
but now they must descend to safety.
498
00:52:26,960 --> 00:52:32,040
As the weather closes in above, the
cave team are making progress below.
499
00:52:38,880 --> 00:52:42,200
It's Christmas Day and the crew
are dressed for the occasion.
500
00:52:46,280 --> 00:52:48,879
Just watch my back on these icicles,
501
00:52:48,880 --> 00:52:51,040
I don't want to snap that
top one off.
502
00:52:53,320 --> 00:52:57,199
How strong are these pillars of ice?
503
00:52:57,200 --> 00:53:00,479
It's about... Round about five...
504
00:53:00,480 --> 00:53:03,560
So if I squeeze past,
it's not going to snap it?
505
00:53:05,080 --> 00:53:08,400
Gavin is reassured by advice
from the scientist.
506
00:53:11,880 --> 00:53:13,199
Oh!
507
00:53:13,200 --> 00:53:16,079
Ohhh! Gavin!
508
00:53:16,080 --> 00:53:17,720
I'm sorry.
509
00:53:19,080 --> 00:53:22,800
That's terrible. Oh, look, it fits
perfectly, look. Look at that.
510
00:53:27,560 --> 00:53:30,559
Fortunately, these crystals
are made of frozen water
511
00:53:30,560 --> 00:53:32,559
and can grow back in weeks.
512
00:53:32,560 --> 00:53:35,999
You've got these beautiful,
clear, glass-like pillars
513
00:53:36,000 --> 00:53:38,999
and right next to it,
this really delicate...
514
00:53:39,000 --> 00:53:41,760
Look how thin that filament
is there.
515
00:53:43,920 --> 00:53:46,079
As the cave team explore deeper,
516
00:53:46,080 --> 00:53:49,159
each chamber reveals ice crystals
517
00:53:49,160 --> 00:53:52,280
more strange and spectacular
than the last.
518
00:53:55,520 --> 00:53:59,119
No-one on the team imagined
a single Antarctic mountain
519
00:53:59,120 --> 00:54:01,080
could house so many wonders.
520
00:54:05,000 --> 00:54:08,359
Down at the foot of Mount Erebus,
a third crew, the dive team,
521
00:54:08,360 --> 00:54:11,159
plan to explore
the volcano's lower slopes,
522
00:54:11,160 --> 00:54:14,479
which extend beneath the frozen sea.
523
00:54:14,480 --> 00:54:18,319
On board is underwater cameraman
Hugh Miller.
524
00:54:18,320 --> 00:54:22,119
The problem is, we don't actually
know what's under the ice here.
525
00:54:22,120 --> 00:54:25,159
So who knows,
it's a bit of an adventure.
526
00:54:25,160 --> 00:54:28,719
Old-fashioned tools
still work best.
527
00:54:28,720 --> 00:54:31,079
First, a hand chisel
to create an opening,
528
00:54:31,080 --> 00:54:33,800
then a saw to widen the hole.
529
00:54:34,800 --> 00:54:37,799
Ice-diving in the coldest waters
on the planet
530
00:54:37,800 --> 00:54:39,999
should be taken extremely seriously.
531
00:54:40,000 --> 00:54:46,079
This dive's going to be a lot of
things and warm is not on that list.
532
00:54:46,080 --> 00:54:50,439
Insulated suits will keep them alive
under the ice for only 60 minutes.
533
00:54:50,440 --> 00:54:55,600
Once the helicopter departs,
there's no margin for error.
534
00:54:59,160 --> 00:55:03,479
The dive team begin to explore
the lower slopes of Erebus,
535
00:55:03,480 --> 00:55:06,880
discovering a hidden world
rarely seen by humans.
536
00:55:09,000 --> 00:55:13,119
Patrolling the icy shores
of the volcano are killer whales,
537
00:55:13,120 --> 00:55:15,240
the most southerly in the world.
538
00:55:16,720 --> 00:55:20,160
Tracking them from above
is the orca team.
539
00:55:22,080 --> 00:55:25,279
They need a helicopter to get
ahead of the whales
540
00:55:25,280 --> 00:55:27,880
and to land them
on the fragile sea ice.
541
00:55:30,000 --> 00:55:33,559
Cameraman Jamie McPherson
must pick his spot carefully.
542
00:55:33,560 --> 00:55:35,759
His aim is to get the cameras
543
00:55:35,760 --> 00:55:40,320
as close to the killer whales
as possible without disturbing them.
544
00:55:42,560 --> 00:55:46,360
He uses a film camera to capture
the action in slow motion.
545
00:55:54,760 --> 00:55:56,640
And the orcas come right by him.
546
00:55:58,800 --> 00:56:00,479
Even in the extreme cold,
547
00:56:00,480 --> 00:56:03,799
a film camera proves to be
rugged and reliable...
548
00:56:03,800 --> 00:56:07,320
provided there's enough film
in the camera.
549
00:56:09,520 --> 00:56:11,200
End of the run. No!
550
00:56:14,120 --> 00:56:17,120
I've got him coming out,
I just didn't get him going back in.
551
00:56:19,240 --> 00:56:20,640
All right!
552
00:56:25,360 --> 00:56:30,079
Below the sea ice, the dive team
is setting up an underwater studio.
553
00:56:30,080 --> 00:56:33,319
Using a range of waterproof lights
and time-lapse cameras,
554
00:56:33,320 --> 00:56:38,160
they hope to capture the growth of
bizarre underwater ice formations.
555
00:56:46,160 --> 00:56:47,799
Over the coming weeks,
556
00:56:47,800 --> 00:56:50,559
the dive team would go below the ice
over 100 times
557
00:56:50,560 --> 00:56:52,759
to film
the extraordinary secret world
558
00:56:52,760 --> 00:56:55,200
on the lower flanks
of Mount Erebus.
559
00:56:58,120 --> 00:57:00,999
On top of the ice,
the orca team has repositioned.
560
00:57:01,000 --> 00:57:04,279
Their new goal is to get
underwater shots of the whales.
561
00:57:04,280 --> 00:57:07,479
They don't dare to
get IN the water with orcas.
562
00:57:07,480 --> 00:57:09,959
Attaching a camera to a pole
is a safer option,
563
00:57:09,960 --> 00:57:13,520
provided the whales
aren't put off by it.
564
00:57:18,880 --> 00:57:22,959
No-one is prepared
for what happens next.
565
00:57:22,960 --> 00:57:25,200
Tell her what you just saw.
566
00:57:26,480 --> 00:57:28,359
HE LAUGHS
567
00:57:28,360 --> 00:57:30,760
The entire pod arrives.
568
00:57:50,200 --> 00:57:51,639
Eyeball to eyeball,
569
00:57:51,640 --> 00:57:55,399
this is about as close to killer
whales as it's possible to get.
570
00:57:55,400 --> 00:57:58,919
By using multiple crews and cameras,
the Frozen Planet team
571
00:57:59,220 --> 00:58:03,379
have been able to capture the full
Erebus story, from the fire
572
00:58:03,380 --> 00:58:07,540
at its crater down to the whales
that patrol its frozen shores.
573
00:58:09,120 --> 00:58:13,500
It's quite a privilege to feel
whale breath on your face.
574
00:58:29,520 --> 00:58:32,359
Subtitles by APOLLO
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575
00:58:33,305 --> 00:58:39,829
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