Original subtitles

- My travels around Greece,

as part of this odyssey, have taken me through

the heart of the nation, Athens,

and throughout several of the major island groups.

We've cruised around the coast of the Peloponnese,

and traveled amongst the Ionian Islands.

Then, we made our way across to the northern Aegean,

before spending time exploring the hidden gems

of the Western Cyclades, and man, was it beautiful.

This series sees it's steering me further eastward,

and into the Dodecanese.

In this episode, I've headed for Lipsi,

a peaceful little gem that's a long way from Athens,

and well and truly off the mainstream tourist radar.

Here, I'll be getting my hands dirty,

as I learn about the island's unique history.

I'll be meeting some researchers

protecting the marine environments,

I'll head to a farm that's unlike

any other I've come across,

plus I'll be getting a taste of the local cuisine,

and showing you how to make one of my favorite dishes.

To the south of me is Leros,

to the west is the holy island of Patmos,

and just to the north of me is the island of Lipsi,

inhabitants, 800 people.

Where we are now, this is the small island group

of Macronisia, Macronisia means "long islands".

Now, this little archipelago is actually

part of the greater Lipsos, 24 islands that surround Lipsi.

This island group is known as the Polynesia of Greece,

because the water is just so green, I don't think

I've seen greener water anywhere else in Greece.

And getting here is actually quite simple,

there's ferries coming from Piraeus, Kalymnos,

and all the islands almost every day.

But, I see lots of yachts in the distance,

it's a very popular yachting island.

But, it's hot, there's no breeze,

and I should just go for a swim.

I might go down there, but I'm just looking

for a way down, I've forgotten my way.

I think I know where they're going.

Now, you can see why I couldn't just cruise

on by this place, without stopping to check it out.

Have a look at that water, it's absolutely stunning,

and the beauty of it clearly isn't lost on the tourists.

Despite being a totally uninhabited group of rocks,

surrounded by several better known islands,

this place draws a crowd.

We're in the middle of nowhere,

and all these boats have come out of nowhere,

it's amazing, but it's beautiful, look at it.

It's absolutely magnificent.

You can understand why they call it the Polynesia of Greece.

Yianni, how close are we gonna go?

- Over there, no?

- We'll go that close?

So, we're gonna stern too, which means

that we're gonna take the boat

and reverse it back into there.

Yianni's gonna drop two anchors,

he'll move the boat out one way, drop one anchor,

and then he'll move the boat out another way,

drop another anchor, so the anchors are apart,

and then we'll slowly reverse, and Mikey is tying

a rope to the rocks, we'll bring that rope back,

and we'll be tied to the rocks,

and we're tied with the anchors on both sides.

So, you see when Yianni goes like that,

that means, actually, we just dropped anchor.

And that's a call for the other anchor.

It might not have the over water bungalows,

or palm trees of Polynesia,

but it has that gorgeous blue water.

We couldn't linger too long in the Greek version

of a Pacific paradise, as we had a strict

schedule to stick to, so after a swim,

we moved to our next major port on the island of Lipsi.

It's very different to Macronisia,

with it's built up harbor and lively town,

but one thing the two have in common is

that only tourists in the know come here.

It's far enough from the popular wants

to retain it's authenticity,

but developed enough to have all the comforts

you could want.

Only meters from the port, here at Lipsi,

is this famous shop that I've been to before,

it's the bakery, it's a patisserie,

it's the local shop, it's everything,

and it's open 24 hours a day.

For an island with 800 people, 24 hours a day, what is it?

Well man, they make the best (foreign language),

geez, I didn't say that too badly,

six syllables,

Translated, that means rag pie,

and they make a sweet rag pie,

Kydiako makes a savory rag pie, and there's a bit

of discussion about what it should be.

But who cares?

Locally, they do it as a sweet rag pie,

and I'm gonna go and try it right now,

'cause I miss it, I haven't had it in five years.

The shop is far more

than just a bakery, it's an island institution.

You need some breakfast?

Then pop in.

Feeling peckish for something sweet?

He's got you covered.

Wondering where the local doctor is?

Ask Dikayda.

Hell, it's even a tourist information center.

He's such a good guy, and one of the important strings

that ties this community together.

If there's one thing I've learned over the years,

it's that the best memories come about

when more than one of your senses are engaged.

For example, if you look at a photo of a cake,

yeah, you can probably recall it,

but if you see one on a cake stand,

and get a chance to smell it,

then the memory is even better ingrained.

Now, imagine how much more embedded in your mind

it will be, if you also get to have a taste.

It's been five years since I've last tried

this (foreign language), and the few moments I had to wait

before getting a bite of it this time,

felt like hours of excruciating withdrawals.

You're gonna appreciate, when I went to bed last night,

I was dreaming of my

Now, this thing has got yogurt, eggs,

sugar, all this other stuff in it,

but the yogurt, it's the only thing I'll eat

with yogurt in it, here in Lipsi.

So, let's give it a shot, I haven't had it for five years,

look at that, look at how soft it is, beautiful.

Mmm.

Oh, it's just so good.

And a name like rag pie, just totally wrong.

It just shouldn't have that name,

should have a different name.

But then again, the Florentines,

they have (foreign language), which is,

they stuff all, anything in it,

and that soup is awesome.

So, that's similar thing, they just stuff anything in it,

that's why they call it rag pie.

Try saying that, it's bloody hard,

I'll tell ya.

Mmm.

Nikita, wherever you are,

Mmm.

The ringing of goats' bells, it's the symphony

of the Greek countryside, it's a slightly higher pitch

than the melodies of the cows in Switzerland,

but just as heartwarming.

That, I wanna listen to.

I suppose you're thinking, "Another goat story?",

well, it's not so.

Here in Lipsi, there is a special farm,

ran by this eccentric person that loves making cheese,

and this farm just doesn't have goats on it,

it's got cows, it's got buffalos, it's got emus,

it's got every animal you could think of.

Well, almost every animal that I can think of anyway.

So, I'm gonna go and check it out,

and see what the story is.

This place is as much a zoo as it is a farm.

The variety of animals is unreal,

and they each serve a purpose.

The farm was set up by an Italian businessman,

Allesandro Balisera, he's as passionate

about animals and cheese making as he is about the island.

So, he wanted to combine the three,

which led to him to establishing Alpha Farm in 2015.

In the years since, it's become renown

for the quality and variety of the products they make,

in particular, their buffalo cheese.

Running the farm is Nektarios Gryllis,

who has the same enthusiasm for the animals and cheeses

as Alessandro, he spends his days tending to the menagerie,

which I reckon is every kid's dream job.

- So, they've had the ostriches for a couple of years.

And this is the first year where they're

actually incubating themselves, the eggs.

So, it looks like we're gonna have

more ostriches in the coming months.

Look, look, look, she's gonna move a couple again.

So, Nektarios is telling me they take turns,

male and female, to sit on top of the ostrich eggs

to incubate them.

- They're just breeding these birds to breed the birds,

just for the sake of having ostriches,

unlike some of the other animals that are here,

that are here specifically for their milk.

Nah, nah, I'm not putting my finger in there,

don't expect me to put my finger in there.

These ostriches are very dangerous at the moment,

because they're protecting the eggs,

the eggs have just come out,

and if you do anything that affects the eggs,

they're gonna attack you.

My friend Nektarios, he's got massive kahunas

to be doing what he's doing at the moment.

- On an island like Lipsi, this is absolutely magnificent

that the Italian owner can breed animals sustainably,

'cause it's such a small island, 800 people.

This is fantastic.

Over here, we've got young cows and buffalo

living together in harmony.

- What a bunch of beautiful little animals, right?

How are you buddy?

And not on my t-shit,

'cause I gotta do more shooting today, okay?

Come here.

Hey, here you go.

This one really likes me.

- What Nektarios is saying is that the buffalo

are very, very close to humans, is that right?

They love the humans.

Look at this, he's pushing me over, he just wants to hug me.

Nektarios reckons I should take one with me on the boat.

- No, no, not down there, not down there, okay?

I know we're friends, but hey.

- Hey, listen, you wanna come with me?

You wanna come with me?

Come on, let's go.

- I like you, you're okay.

There were animals everywhere, llamas,

all sorts of birds, horses, goats, buffalo,

you name it, and they probably had a couple.

The beautiful thing is, many of them are just here

because Alessandro likes them,

and they're treated really well.

Oh, he's loving that.

She's loving that, she's loving that.

And look at it, she's loving that, she's wallowing.

Please.

Something just happened there.

I think she farted.

That was so dense.

Let me just take in some fresh air.

The things we do for this show.

I don't wanna touch my face with the...

Man, they're some big buffalo there, wow!

- Oh, I just met your offspring.

Hey, sir.

- So, there's a bunch of girls here,

a bunch of female buffalo, there's only one

male buffalo at the end there.

I think he's laughing, I think he's

a very, very happy buffalo.

He's got a harem, he's got a harem here in Lipsi.

You don't see too many cows,

let alone buffalo, in the Greek islands.

It's not exactly the type of environment they're suited to,

but the variety they keep are able to live

in the arid country side, largely thanks

to the additional food they're provided.

- He loves the animals, he loves the animals.

You know, there's something I see here,

I see the farmers, they're a different breed.

- You do not hit them.

You know, living side by side like this is fantastic.

- You're a legend mate, you're a legend.

I've always had a soft spot for animals,

their survival is often at the whim of humans,

and too often, they're mistreated and looked upon

as being disposable commodities,

instead of respected and appreciated.

But, the beautiful creatures here

seem healthy and happy, and visiting Alpha Farm

has restored some of my faith in humanity.

As for that little buffalo, as much as I wanted

to take her along for the rest of the odyssey,

she had an important job to do here.

I'll have to come back and visit sometime.

Around the world, there are wonderful people

working at non-government organizations,

serving to benefit communities, protect the environment,

help the navy, and essentially bring a little

balance to the planet.

One such group is Archipelagos, it's a Marine

Conservation Institute, set up to research

and protect the wide diversity of the Greek Islands,

and entire Eastern Mediterranean.

It brings together academics, students,

and volunteers from different parts of the planet,

each with a shared passion for the marine environment.

Where do you guys start, you've got 75 people

doing all this work, there's so many areas to look at,

what do you do?

- Like a university or a research center,

Archipelagos Institute of Marine Conservation

does what I like to call defense work.

We do the minimum research needed

to prove the extent of a problem,

or of a status of the conservation of a species,

and then, we try to encourage universities,

experts, academics from all around the world

to come here and have the ability

to focus on each individual problem,

and do more in depth work.

- You must be proud of what you're doing.

- I am, I am, it's not easy.

It's a life choice between the years

that we have to be here 24/7, never have a day off,

never have a moment off, but it's something

that I think is worth it.

If I don't do it, who will? - Yeah.

- And that's why we're trying to open

Archipelagos as a platform for use for people.

And everyone gives time, expertise, brain,

good energy, good sorts to push this forward,

because it's not a Greek problem, it's a global problem,

and if we solve it here, we can solve it elsewhere.

They work on a shoestring budget, always looking

for sponsors to support their research.

These young people give their life to the labor,

spending every waking hour on the job,

totally dedicated to the task at hand.

I was lucky to be amongst such a hard-working

and committed group of people,

who were also very friendly, welcoming outsiders

to learn about what they do, and in my case,

instilling some passion for the cause.

This has been built as a dolphin sanctuary, is that right?

- Yeah, so one part of what we do

is the Aegean Marine Life Sanctuary.

So, it's a project that we're wanting to start up.

The aim is that we can rehabilitate some marine mammals,

and then also, dolphins that are currently

in dolphinariums that are shutting.

Currently, there's not necessarily

a solution for where they go.

- What is a dolphinarium?

- So, it's almost like a zoo star version--

- Oh okay, okay. - Of where the dolphins are.

So, they'll do shows to the public,

often they're in very shallow, cramped conditions.

And sometimes, when these places shut,

because there's no network in place

for what to do with them after,

sometimes they actually get sent to other dolphinariums--

- Right.

- So, this is what we're posing as a potential solution,

so they go back into a semi, it's more like

their natural environment--

- And then, when they relocate here,

you send them out into the wild again?

- Not necessarily, it depends.

There's a vet who'll work on a process

with each individual dolphin.

So, for some of them, it's a case of

if they're born in captivity, and they've lived

in this environment their whole life,

they can't necessarily be put back into the wild.

- Right.

- So, something like this would act as

almost like a retirement home for them.

- Why did you pick Lipsi?

I understand that this is one of the best

recycling islands in all of Greece,

and it's really, really clean.

What's the fact behind that?

- Yeah, so for us, Lipsi is a green island.

Coming from the UK, things like recycling or something,

I was common with, brought up doing,

and when I first came to Greece,

some of the other islands, it's not necessarily

something that's in place.

But the moment I came to Lipsi, it's already here,

it's something they've done for a long time.

And like last year, they already had

a fresh water system set up, so they were

reducing the amount of bottled water and plastic

that they were using.

- For such a small island, 15 square kilometers,

39 kilometers in perimeter, and only 800 people,

they're way ahead, aren't they?

You've been here for a long time,

you've been three years, you spent a lot of time here,

does that sound right?

- Yeah, I really like what they do here,

that's why I come back and I continue doing what I do here.

- Yeah, you're awesome, Emma.

You're fantastic, I love what you guys are doing.

I wanna go and have a look at what they're doing over there.

Emma specializes in sea grass, and along with her team,

is studying the ability to harvest the grass

for the purpose of establishing new environments elsewhere.

It's extremely important work

for the creation of sanctuaries.

- So, this is the species we're most interested here,

because it's protected, so you shouldn't be

fishing over it, you shouldn't be anchoring into it.

This is Posidonia Oceanica, sea grass is basically

like a plant that's fallen over,

and you get the trunk under water,

and just the leaves poke through,

and then you have the roots coming down.

When they take the carbon dioxide in

and they produce oxygen, that's when they're

doing that storing process.

- So, you're pulling this out,

what do you do with these things?

What are you doing with the Posidonia Oceanica?

- So, with these fragments, we're looking at

different ways to try and replant them,

because they're potentially fragments

that might not have re-rooted on their own.

- So, this is like huge stuff,

this hasn't been done anywhere?

- Yeah, not necessarily in this way.

- What happens if it works,

if you create a bush of this stuff underwater, right?

- Yeah.

- And it works, what happens?

- Well, ideally, we'd be looking at publishing that,

but telling other people--

- And telling the world!

- Yeah, exactly.

- You guys are changing the world here.

- It's habitat restoration,

though it could be done in other places,

not just in this locality.

Everything we do here, we do on a small scale,

but it has larger scale consequences,

like with the sanctuary, it could then

be used in other places.

- Should I jump in there and give him a hand?

- Yeah.

- You know, 'cause they need a free diver

that can go down to two meters.

Don't you think?

- Well, you do get sea grass in two meters.

- We do get sea grass in two meters?

- In this whole range, in this whole range.

- I'll do the two meter stuff,

while they're doing the 10 meter stuff, okay?

- Okay, yeah.

- Let's go, let's go, guys.

This is a world first, and a depth of knowledge

and ability to confidently take on such a huge task

is impressive at any age, let alone for someone so young.

When you consider that sea grass,

alike the Amazon rainforest of the deep,

you get a better picture of the role it plays.

This seemingly innocuous plant oxygenates our oceans,

it provides habitat for marine life,

and holds the sea floor together.

In 10 or 20 years from now, I'm looking forward

to meeting Emma again, and referring to her

as Doctor Emma, the woman that helped save our oceans.

Early on the episode, I met Nektarios at the farm,

he was such a great guy, in fact, he politely offered

to take us for a horse ride.

It was an offer I couldn't turn down,

even if I'm not exactly a horse whisperer.

Now's a time to be riding, it's nice and cool,

sun's coming down.

This is wonderful, such a small island,

and to have horses on it and be riding around

with the family and friends,

and new friends obviously, wonderful.

You know what's good?

I've got Helen to come as well.

That's my beautiful wife, Helen,

at the back in the white cap, this is a very special moment,

because even though we do everything together,

she likes her privacy.

I'm always talking about her in the show,

and people often ask when they'll get to see

Helen make an appearance, well finally,

she's with me, and the enigma of Helen is no more.

Pretty close to the edge.

I don't think there's a better way

to finish our time in Lipsi than riding off into the sunset.

Absolutely awesome.

This seemingly simple act, that's routine

for many a farmer, is unique for city-dwellers,

like my friends, family, and I.

It was great to share the moment with them,

and start winding up my time on Lipsi

with everyone around me.

Special moments are made all the more rewarding

when they're shared with loved ones,

and just so you know, Helen had a great time.

Of an evening, the port area is transformed,

during the day, it can often be quiet,

as people avoid the heat, and they're relaxing at the beach.

Come late afternoon, the lights of the bars and taverns

start turning on, and the murmur of chatting diners

fills the air.

There's nothing like returning to a restaurant

where you had more than just a gastronomic experience.

Here, in this tiny island of Lipsi,

is this wonderful restaurant that Manolis runs,

and it's not just the food that is awesome,

but it's the way that he delivers that food to you.

He's a traditionalist, so he gets you in the kitchen,

and you look at what you wanna eat,

and then you go out and eat.

But, his food is not necessarily traditional,

it's 21st century Greek food

that's got a little bit of a twist to it.

It's awesome, I'm gonna share it with some friends,

and the crew!

- This is all homemade, and all traditional Greek food.

- Okay. - Okay?

Would you like to explain, yeah?

- Absolutely, let's go, let's go, let's go.

- This is my chicken in tomato sauce

with sweet wine from Lipsi.

- Chicken?

- Chicken, yeah.

Look, it's a chicken breast,

and my grandmother used to put olives, peppers,

and before to serve it, she put cheese.

Here is a rabbit.

- Rabbit? - Rabbit.

- Rabbit stew.

- Yes.

- Oh man,

- Yes, exactly.

- So, it's got onions in it as well?

- Yes, a lot of onions.

This is aubergines cooked in the oven

with garlic and feta, this nice starter.

This is a beautiful thing, this is a lamb,

it's off the bone, and I serve it on a plate

with the pepper sauce.

- That looks awesome, man.

- Yeah, you're gonna taste everything now.

- I'm gonna have it all, mate.

I think I'm gonna have more.

What's this one here?

- This is very nice also, this is pork

with Parmesan sauce, peppers, and mushrooms.

It's also very good.

This is really traditional, this is pork in lemon sauce

with celery root, carrots, and leek, also nice.

- Lovely.

- Cooked with an ink sauce.

- An ink sauce?

- Yeah, and served with risotto, or linguine, or pasta.

This is a nice one.

- The aubergine as well.

- Yeah, this is aubergine, then I stop

the aubergines and I put it in the oven with cheese.

This is pork now, the pork is cooked before in tomato sauce.

That looks just so good now. - Thank you very much.

- Now listen, Manolis? - Yes.

- I want everything. - Okay.

- I want everything for my people, they're gonna love it.

- This is what I'm going to do,

I will put it, one at your table,

so you're going to taste everything.

- Fantastic.

- And whatever you like more, I will bring over.

- Thank you.

- Thank you very much.

- Thank you, mate. - You're welcome.

- I'll see you a bit later, we'll have a drink, ay?

- Yes, of course, of course.

- Okay, yeah. - Thank you.

- It looks like we're in for a big dinner,

that suits the crew and I perfectly.

In case it wasn't obvious enough,

I'm a massive fan of Manolis' cooking.

Some of the more traditional Greek foodies

occasionally find all the herbs and spices

from different parts of the world a bit too unique for them.

I, on the other hand, have a palate

that likes to try new and different flavors.

Rest assured, there's all the usuals on the menu,

like a simple Greek salad, or grilled sardines.

But, there's also more exotic things to try,

or all star dishes with a Manolis twist.

And while I may not be a food critic,

I can say with confidence that you'll love this place.

Manolis' version of traditional Greek dishes is awesome.

Mind you, if you ate here everyday,

you'd probably pack on the weight pretty quickly.

- Across the islands of Greece, there are customs

that extend from rites of passage,

and celebrations of past events, to religious festivals.

On the isle of Lipsi, one of the annual events

that brings the community together

is the celebration of Saint John Klythonis.

Naturally, it includes a feast,

but there's also a rather unique part of the festivities

that's embraced by the young of the island,

and me too, of course.

The idea behind the leap across the fire

is that the flames and smoke purifies you,

freeing you from evil.

It's similar, in some regards,

to what Native Americans and Indigenous Australians do

with their smoking ceremonies.

We shouldn't do this in normal practice,

but it's a celebration, it's a religious celebration,

and it's safe and there's ambulance people

in the background, so it's okay to jump, all right?

- Yeah.

- But don't, never do this any other time, okay?

- I know.

- Let's go, are you ready?

You jump first, and I'll jump after you, okay?

- Okay.

- Of course, you can't have a festival

without some singing and dancing.

As much as food, religion, and family

underpin Greek culture, song and dance are also

important to Greeks and their rich tapestry.

It's not just the older people that embrace it too,

younger ones here take to the dance floor

as eagerly as their parents.

The echo of music fill the town,

drawing everyone in to join the celebrations.

Festivals like this play an important role

in the communities of these small Greek islands,

it galvanizes the people, bringing them closer together.

It also keeps them feeling part of the

broader Greek nation as a whole,

rather than being a forgotten outpost.

I love his smile, don't you love his smile?

This island really doesn't have

any provincial dishes that I like.

But, I love stuffed tomatoes and capsicums.

So, when the tomatoes were left over,

and they're about to go off, 'cause you have

too many tomatoes, this is the dish they make.

- So, what are we gonna do first?

Take the center out, we take the little pit

out of the tomato, we chuck that out,

and then we take the contents of the tomato,

which we're gonna use in the mix with all this other stuff.

Ooh, look at the juicy tomato, love Greek tomatoes.

I mean, I don't know what it is about

Mediterranean tomatoes, but they taste so much better,

'cause they come straight from paddock to plate, you know?

- Can I have a go at this?

- I'm gonna do this now, my turn, my turn.

- You start with the aubergines, and I'm gonna start,

I'm gonna violate these tomatoes, you know?

I feel really bad, 'cause they're a living thing, you know?

And Kydiako over here is preparing the rest of it.

Now, we've gotta be careful when we're violating

these tomatoes that we don't penetrate the skin,

because then it won't work.

I can't do this like Kydiako can, I'm gonna stuff it up.

You do your job, don't worry about me.

Hey, don't worry about me.

I've previously washed my hands, not once, but twice.

I'm doing a good job, is that a good job or what?

- How do you know it's my first time?

He's saying, "For first time, it's a good job."

How do you know it's my first?

Yeah, well you're right, you're right,

okay, Kydiako, don't give me a hand, all right?

Okay, hey listen, you just do your job,

all right, okay?

He's trying to teach me how to do things right,

I suppose he is anyway.

So, we set that down there, we violate this tomato.

Look at that, is that a good job, ay?

And we've also got capsicums, and with the capsicums,

what do we do, we pull this out don't we?

- Yes.

- But, we don't use that, we throw that in there, don't we?

- Some people do, some people do,

so we just pull the guts out of these things.

You gotta do it too, I'm gonna do it,

we're gonna do it together.

- I'm pretty good, hey?

He's pretty impressed with my capability.

You keep going, 'cause I'm going too quickly, right?

Look at this, look at the color,

look at the gear in here, look at that.

I'm gonna eat that like that now, you know?

I think the other thing you should understand

is the stuffing we have here is basically

rice, and aubergine, and onion,

many people stuff them with minced meat as well.

That's the way my mother did as well, minced meat and rice.

But, that's actually not the original recipe.

- The provincial dish is with rice,

and that's what we're gonna do.

But anyway, what's next?

Throw a little bit of salt in each one.

- Lots, lots, only the good sugar.

There's quite a bit to this,

and it all comes together pretty quickly.

Kydiako's under pressure, because I was starving.

So, if you want the recipe, head to our website.

I do this at work with concrete, put a vibrator

in the concrete to vibrate it down,

same sort of thing, you know?

Just doing it in the kitchen,

I've been doing this for 30 years.

I don't often cook at home,

but watching Kydiako at work brings back fond memories

of spending time with my mom in the kitchen as a boy.

The sounds, colors, and aromas

each have a memory attached,

however, the little tastes along the way

are the most evocative, it makes the cooking

process on the boat so special for me.

I really do enjoy spending time with Kydiako in the kitchen.

Not to the top.

I'm gonna do this. -

- I'm gonna do this, can I do this?

- Yeah that's right, that's right.

So, not to the top.

- Not the top, and what have I done with the first one?

I've done it to the top and spilled it.

- We only fill it three quarters,

because the rice actually expands,

so if we filled it all the way up, the tomato would bust.

And all that's left is to put the remainder

of the tomato emulsion and some olive oil on the top,

and we're done!

He's putting salt on it now, that emulsion looks awesome.

Whoa! That's a lot--

- 45 minutes covered in the oven,

and then after 45 minutes, we uncover it,

in the oven for another 15 and we're done,

at 180 degrees, let's go, so I can start eating this here.

Mmm!

That's awesome.

- Is it good sweet?

- Yeah, it's good sweet, but it's good, it's still good.

- Nah, nah, nah.

- We'll see, we'll see you in an hour.

Now, Kydiako tells me that we should be

having it with a bit of feta,

but Greeks have everything with feta,

if it's not with feta, it's with olive oil,

if it's not olive oil, it's lemon.

So, today I'm gonna just have it (foreign language),

on it's own.

- Let's have a go at this baby.

That is boiling hot.

Kydiako, you're a god, you're a god, mate.

- He's gonna try it too, he's gonna try it, come on.

- Stuffed tomatoes, the best, man,

almost as good as my mother's.

Right up there with my mothers.

- Anyway, let's keep going.

I'm even cutting it.

After (foreign language), stuffed tomatoes

are right up there amongst the most

popular dishes in Greece.

Just about every Greek restaurant here,

and around the world has it on their menu,

and for good reason too.

Life here sure is pretty awesome, things move slowly,

with simple pleasures being the most important.

Good food, great company, and beautiful scenery

are three pillars that make for a happy existence.

Yeah, there's a bit more to life,

but if you've got these as a foundation,

you're starting for a pretty good place.

Just six nautical miles from the coast of Asia Minor,

is the tiniest island of Farmakonisi.

Farmakonisi because farmako means medicine,

and Hippocrates used to come here,

and collect herbs for his medicine.

You can't come here, 'cause it's occupied by the military,

but we've got special permission to go

and have a look up there.

Not far from Lipsi, Farmakonisi is a four square kilometer

speck in the vastness of the Aegean.

It's importance lies in it's proximity to Turkey,

so like many other border islands of Greece,

it has a military presence.

Unfortunately, secrecy didn't allow us

to film the installations here,

but we were given the opportunity

to interview a young lieutenant,

who told us about life on a frontier island.

- It's very important-- - Yes.

- And very difficult.

- Very difficult. - For sure.

- And tell me, you're away from your family,

for weeks at a time, on this barren island.

- There is no problem of this, I communicate every day,

my friends, my girl, my parents, and my brother,

every day I communicate with them.

It is not difficult, this kind of thing.

- And what's it like being in the Greek army as a soldier?

Do you think you're making a difference here on Farmakonisi?

- Here on Farmakonisi, I think it's

a little bit difficult than the other places in Greece.

We are in the first line, and this difficult, I think.

We are alone here, we have a very difficult task to do,

but I don't have problem, me and the others.

- I've met the other boys here,

and one thing I've noticed is your very proud

to be soldiers, very proud to be in the Greek army.

- Of course we are proud, me and the others here,

we are very proud, because we are here every day,

every night, and every single moment

to do what we are here to do.

I am very proud of this, of course I'm proud.

- And of course, you're in the middle of the Aegean,

and you've got this beautiful sea,

do you go for a swim occasionally?

- No swimming. - No swimming?

- No swimming, we are here to do other things, no swimming.

- This is not a holiday.

- No, holiday is in coast and the letters--

- Not here. - Not here in Farmakonisi.

We promised we would do specific things here,

not swimming, and not other things.

- Well, that's unfortunate, because the place is beautiful,

and I'm sure they look longingly

at that water on a hot summer's day.

However, I have to level with you,

I didn't come here just for the army base,

I had another mission on my agenda,

to find two ancient watchtowers

that the base commander was sure didn't exist.

But, my researchers insisted I search the area

near the Church of Saint George,

which by the way, is regularly used by the soldiers here.

So, it's kept in great condition.

Well, I found 'em, here they are.

But, how ironic is it that this part of the island,

or this island was used as a watch post

two and a half thousand years ago,

and still today it's being used as a watch post?

Unbelievable.

Anyway, they look pretty good.

Built in Greece, not bad, eh?

In ancient times, there was a huge network

of watch towers that spanned a wide ark around the Aegean.

They were the early warning system

for the larger surrounding islands.

They acted as beacons for communication,

refuges, lookouts, and other essentially defensive roles.

The first of them was built sometime in

the fourth century B.C., with those found in the Cyclades

constructed at a later date, but in the same style.

Even the most insignificant of Greek islands

has some special history to tell

that creates it's personality.

Here in the Bay of Thorloss,

in these very (foreign language),

a young Julius Caesar was captured

and held for ransom by pirates.

The pirates said to him, "Give us 20 talents,

"and we'll release you."

He laughed at them, and he said, "I'll give you 50."

He sat here for 38 days, in that time, he wrote speeches,

that's how confident he was, and how strong a man he was.

The money came, he gave them the 50 talents,

and as he left, he said, "I'm coming back

"to execute the lot of you."

Months later, he sent a ship,

got the pirates, took 'em back to Rome,

put 'em in jail, and then executed them.

What a story!

And it's here on Farmakonisi!

Wow.

This story perfectly sums up the personality of Caesar,

despite his predicament, being isolated on a faraway island,

held in slave-like conditions by murderous pirates,

he kept his cool.

In fact, it was beyond just maintaining his poise,

Caesar's self belief was verging on arrogance,

such was his ego that he had the audacity

to write and foreworn his captors of their fate.

It was this confidence that made him such a great leader,

he was able to see what others couldn't,

and then devise a pathway to achieve his goals.

It took an assassination to end his reign, what a legend.

Imagine the impact it would've had on the history

of the world, if the pirates actually killed Caesar.

We're just going into the barracks now, into the camp,

and I don't think we can show you anymore,

I'm sorry, because this is all secure stuff,

and I'm gonna get in trouble, sorry.

At every military post, every day in Greece,

and right through the world, there is a significant

raising of the flag, and on this small island

of Farmakonisi, it happens every single morning.

And we're here for that ritual now.

This daily routine is an important part

of military service in almost every country on the planet.

The raising of the flag is a statement

of pride in one's nation, it's a symbol

that the soldiers, and the populous in general,

can all rally around.

The singing of the national anthem plays a similar role.

I think the difference here,

on the tiny island of Farmakonisi is

that this is essentially the front line.

These guys are here for one purpose,

and that's to protect Greece.

They make huge sacrifices to be here,

and moments like this help reassure them

that they're doing the right thing.

- This little rock of Farmakonisi

is probably the least known of the islands I've visited,

and it has plenty that makes it a great place,

if only it was accessible to the public.

In the next episode, I'm leaving Farmakonisi,

and heading to the holy island of Patmos.

It's best known as being the place

where the book of Revelations was written.

It's said that the disciple John

was in a cave on the island when he received

a vision from Jesus, because of this,

the place has strong times to Christianity,

and several basilicas.

Beyond the religious context,

I'm also delving into the island's history,

and of course, I'll show you some of the gorgeous beaches.

Finishing the episode, I'll be heading

to some islands east of Patmos,

including Marathos, Parki, and Agathonisi.

It's a theater packed show

that brings together some of the less known

destinations in the Greek islands.