Original subtitles

(uplifting music)

(calm music)

- From the bustling streets of Athens

and the historic port of Hydra, to the beaches

of Zakinthos and the villages of Kythera,

our journey over the coming weeks spans many

of the Ionian islands, some well-known,

others that few ever get to visit.

But before heading off, you probably wanna know

a little bit about me.

My story starts as a boy growing up

in the inner suburbs of Sydney.

Like a lot of Greeks early last century,

my parents moved overseas to find a better life abroad.

They arrived with very little and worked extremely hard

to give my sisters and I a loving upbringing.

They also made me believe that if I too worked hard enough,

I could achieve anything.

54 years later, I've built a successful business,

and that has enabled me to do things I once only dreamed of.

One of those dreams was to step foot

on all 227 inhabited Greek Islands, and I'm gonna take

a big chunk out of that in this first series.

So far I've taken you to some of the bigger

and more popular Aegean Islands in the Saronic Gulf,

including Spetses, and most recently, Hydra.

It's been an exciting journey.

And what is special about Ydraia, there are no buses,

no cars, no taxis, no motorbikes, no bicycles.

My travels through Greece have been full of history,

great food, and plenty of laughs along the way.

Not to mention, spectacular scenery.

And there's plenty more to come.

(fireworks crackling)

In this episode I'm headed to Nafplion,

a place that's rich in history, from ancient times,

right up to the modern era.

My plan is to tell the region's story by visiting the ruins,

meeting the locals, and taking in the natural wonders.

You'll be amazed at just how much this part of Greece

has to offer.

I'm also headed to Monemvasia, with a side trip

to Limin Ieraka along the way, so in the coming hour,

you can expect to see a whole lot!

(smooth music)

After my short visit to Hydra,

we cruised along the Peloponnese coast deep into

the Argolic Gulf, to the seaport town of Nafplion.

The journey there took us past stunning coastal scenery

with dry, rocky countryside giving way to a clear blue sea.

The landscape seemed uninhabited,

with only the occasional small town, ancient ruin,

or glowing, white church punctuating the scene,

and a few windmills.

It gave me some time to switch off, relax,

and just take in this incredible backdrop.

Travelling through areas like this,

you get an appreciation of how sparse much of Greece can be.

Of the 11 million people living in the country,

only about two million inhabit the Peloponnese

and Aegean islands, and mostly in urban areas.

Out here, there's little in the way of work,

so people have left the villages and towns

that once dotted the landscape and moved

to the bigger cities or more established settlements,

one of which was our next destination.

From Ydraia we've travelled out of the Saronic Gulf

into the Argolic Gulf, into the northern end

of the Argolic Gulf, a town called Napflion.

Napflion was actually the first capital city of Greece,

post 1821 revolution.

Special place, fortresses, archaeology,

antiquity, it's fantastic.

Nafplion is a beautiful town that's long been

an important settlement.

Since ancient times, there have been people living here,

and throughout Greece's history,

various powers have occupied it.

The town's story is told by this rich mix

of architectural influences.

From the walls of the Acronauplia,

built in pre-classical times, through the era

of Byzantine and Frankish rule, to the arrival of the Turks

in 1540, and the brief period of Venetian control,

each has left their mark on this colourful town.

One of the things you'll immediately notice

is that the shopping here is fantastic.

A lot of tourist towns have the same international stores

and outlets that you quickly get bored of.

Here though, while you've got a patch of the usual suspects,

there's also plenty of unique local brands

to arouse your interest.

Napflion has some really cool shops,

but the common denominator is lots of coffee shops

and bars, very Greek.

Does anyone work around here?

I just can't get over the amount of people

that are sitting in shops on a Tuesday afternoon!

It's a pretty relaxed lifestyle in the Greek Islands,

but to be honest, the majority of the people

here are tourists, and who doesn't enjoy sitting in a cafe,

drinking coffee and doing a little people watching?

It's the All-Seeing Eye, from the Greek Orthodox church.

Otherwise known as the Eye of Providence,

the All-Seeing Eye of God is a religious symbol adopted

by various faiths the world over.

You'll find it in places of worship, in art,

and even on the US $1 bill.

It represents the idea that God is watching over humanity

and in a deeply religious place like Greece,

you'll find this and other church icons on everything

from clothing and decor to jewellery.

Speaking of jewellery, this place has plenty of options.

I might have to buy something for Helen.

Actually, I've learned over the years that I should leave

that stuff to her.

My taste is just a little different.

Nafplion is known for its kompoloi shops,

it's actually got a kompoloi museum,

kompoloi in English is a worry bead.

We might have a look at some.

This is a bone one.

(speaking in foreign language)

Show me how you do it, yes.

(both speaking in foreign language)

Yes.

- Another way.

- Ah, that's the way I see them do it.

(speaking in foreign language)

That's the way they do it in the cafe.

(speaking in foreign language)

- You grip tight this part from inside.

And you turn it like this.

- I'll get there!

- Exactly, you need a little bit practise.

- I don't know about this.

You're very good at it!

- Yes, I know, it's my job.

- Worry beads are made of everything from plastic

and coral through to gem-quality amber.

They range in price from five euro to more than 500,

with the more expensive ones being a symbol

of power or prestige.

They also look similar to prayer beads from other cultures,

but they actually have no religious purpose.

Most people use them for relaxation

or to help with concentration, so I might buy a stack

of them for friends and family.

Apparently, I have a tendency to cause anxiety

in the people around me.

Hard to believe, I know.

I think I'm quite a relaxed guy.

(relaxed music)

(uplifting music)

I'm here on the northwestern corner of Palamidis Fortress.

It's 999 steps to get up here.

The place is absolutely massive.

There's fortifications wherever you look.

I better get a move on.

(thoughtful music)

Palamidis Fortress was actually built in the early 1700s

by the Vanecians.

It was built between 1711 and 1714 and just

as they were completing it, the Ottomans invaded

and took Palamadis in 1715.

And you can actually see where the Ottoman's added

to the fortifications, the lower bit is the Vanecians,

and that higher bit which is more Roman,

and you can see those turrets, very Ottoman.

Palimidi Fortress overlooks the town

and is a dominant feature on the skyline.

For those living below, looking up at

that heavy fortification would have given

them a sense of protection.

It would have been an imposing sight for any invading force.

This place is amazing, wherever you walk, there's walls,

and some bloody high ones too.

There are eight bastions in Palamidis.

We're gonna go and have a look at one of the good ones.

But here in front of me, you can see the wing line.

It's a wing line of Venice, this tells you

that it's Venetian.

You'll see a lot of those in St. Mark's square in Venice.

This is the Agios Andreas bastion, named by the Greeks.

It had a different name for the Turks

and a different name for the Venetians,

for all eight bastions for that matter.

But this is where Kolokotronis, the great Greek general,

the saviour of the 1821 revolution was jailed

for several years, very solemn place.

(slow inspirational music)

Ranked amongst the most prominent figures

in Greece's War of Independence,

General Theodoros Kolokotronis lead the Greek forces

in the Peloponnese.

While Admirals Miaoulia and Bouboulina were engaged

in naval conflicts further down the coast,

Kolokotronis rallied the people behind him,

and formed an army from local mountain folk and militia.

The Turks had possession of this fort

for over 100 years until 1822.

In November of that year, General Staikopoulos

and 350 Greek crack troops stormed Palamidis Fortress

and took the Turkish garrison.

And for the next 15 years, Napflion was

the capital of Greece.

You know, this is my second time to Palamidis Fortress,

second time for my family as well,

and they want to come again because Palamidis Fortress,

you don't have to be a historian,

you don't have to love Greece, Venice,

or Turkey for that matter, there's something

for everybody here.

It's a kid's playground.

My son has been climbing the walls and playing around.

If you like walking, it's good for a walk,

and it's a photographer's paradise.

I love this place.

Places like Palamidis survive as visual reminders

of times gone by, but it's the responsibility

of people like you and I to tell younger generations

what happened here, and the stories of the great people

that have walked inside these walls.

It's through sharing this knowledge

that we show appreciation for our forebears

and keep their memory alive.

Apart from its history, Nafplion and its inland fertile

plains are well known for their agriculture,

specifically the oranges.

They say they're the best in Greece!

This calls for a Greek orange pie, a Portokalopita,

now that's a mouthful.

We have these beautiful Napflion oranges.

Now, they don't look like they've been bought from a shop.

(speaking in foreign language)

And what have we got over here, Kyriako?

(speaking in foreign language)

This is filo pastry, but it looks like you've--

(speaking in foreign language)

He's left it out there for a little while to dry up

and it's nice and crunchy.

So we need that stuff, okay.

(speaking in foreign language)

Everything's going inside.

(speaking in foreign language)

They're very sweet apparently at the moment,

because this is the time for oranges.

After adding a couple of sliced, whole oranges,

we put 750 grammes of sugar, 250 mill of olive oil,

a teaspoon of baking soda, some milk, and four eggs

into the blender.

(speaking in foreign language)

(both laughing)

You can tell by his girth that Kyriako is a man

that loves his food.

He's an amazing chef and half the reason why every time

I leave Greece, I'm 10 kilos overweight.

You know what's amazing Kyriako,

whenever we cook this stuff, my wife Helen never comes.

I was expecting her to learn something from this,

but she's out shopping.

(speaking in foreign language)

I can see Rhett is licking his lips over there.

Will there be enough for you, Rhett?

I don't know.

- I don't think so.

(both laughing)

- Fantastic, look at that.

Look at the colour, look at the texture!

This is it, this is simple, very simple, Kyriako.

(speaking in foreign language)

So if you have to make it quickly,

this is a perfect pie to make, a sweet pie.

(cheerful music)

Look at it, you see the orange peel in there?

It's fantastic.

We're going to put that in the oven now, at 160 degrees.

(speaking in foreign language)

For half an hour, 30 minutes.

The syrup is what takes this delicacy to the next level.

It's basically just 750 grammes of sugar dissolved

in water and boiled to reduce a little.

Then you simply add a bit of fresh orange juice.

(speaking in foreign language)

5 oranges.

So we're gonna let that boil now.

We brought the temperature down, now we're going

to bring the temperature back up so that it boils.

(speaking in foreign language)

Very quickly, very quickly.

You better come in and have a look.

Wow, that looks awesome.

That's ready, so he's turned the heat down now.

(speaking in foreign language)

Now that's got to cool.

30 minutes later and voila!

Or as Greeks would say, na to!

(speaking in foreign language)

The syrup has cooled down now and we're gonna put it on top.

The waiting game is the hardest part.

It was 10 minutes of sitting in anticipation

as the syrup soaked in.

Mate, I've never seen anything like this before.

(speaking in foreign language)

Let's have a look.

It's soaked it all up!

So, now we have to test it.

And I know in the bleachers over there,

it's getting a bit busier now.

It was Rhett originally but now

we have captain Rhett and Andreas.

So what are we gonna do?

(speaking in foreign language)

That looks absolutely sensational!

Just put that down there, just grab a little bit

of chocolate ice cream as well.

(speaking in foreign language)

It's not a, oh, straight away, captains into it!

(speaking in foreign language)

Kyriako, you know what this deserves.

(speaking in foreign language)

This deserves the hug!

- Thank you.

- He's done an awesome job, again.

Kyriako is never gonna leave me.

You're gonna stay with me for life, okay?

Thank you, thank you Kyriako.

I hope you guys are enjoying it over there.

- Beautiful. - Very nice!

- Fantastic! - Fantastic.

Kyriako was adamant we had to use vanilla ice cream.

I insisted on chocolate, and judging by the response,

I was right.

(uplifting music)

We've just come up from Napflion up to Profitis Ilias,

which is at the top of this mountain,

and you can see all the way through to the Argolic Gulf,

down to Argos, through all of these plains

of the Peloponnese here, this side of the Peloponnese.

You can see all of these orange groves,

but 2,500 years ago there was this great rivalry

between Argos and Sparta behind me.

Right through this valley there

are several archaeological sites.

Tombs for kings, archaeological digs

that are happening everywhere if you look around.

It's a treasure trove of history here.

(calm music)

These fertile plains being between the sea

and mountains made this a very strategic location,

which is why it's been a seat of power since ancient times.

Greece was a fractured state during the early part

of the Classical Period.

Argos, Sparta, and Athens were all competing

for dominance in the region.

Then in 499 BC the Persian wars started.

While much of the country began unifying against

this common enemy, Argos remained neutral,

consequently diminishing its influence in Greece.

As time went by, other powers occupied the area,

all the while it has been somewhat of a breadbasket

for this country.

You walk through the town of Argos and you think

it's a pretty standard Greek town.

Good Greek coffee, koulouria awesome,

traffic's pretty much the same as everywhere else,

but Argos itself today is not what is special about Argos.

It's what's below and around Argos that's special.

It's the longest continually-inhabited city in Greece

and one of the top five of the world!

Let's go and have a look at what's really special.

Have a look up there right now!

Having been inhabited for some 7,000 years,

there are loads of sights and monuments here,

dating back to antiquity.

Amongst countless other things, the city is famed

for having been the home of Agamemnon,

who in Greek mythology led the Archaeans against the city

of Troy in the Trojan war.

You know, the story with the big wooden horse.

Well the winners of that war came from here.

(speaking in foreign language)

The Greek volleyball team, the girls.

They're here for something, I don't know what

they're here for, but they're her for a special moment.

Some man's congratulating them 'cause

they're here to celebrate something.

I didn't understand a word he said, to be honest with you.

But he congratulated me on speaking, my Greek,

even though it's really bad.

Despite the fascinating history of the area,

Argos isn't a hugely popular tourist destination.

It's a little out of the way, but if you visit Nafplion

and want to see an authentic Greek town,

then take the short taxi ride, grab a coffee and a koulouri,

and pay Larissa Fort a visit.

We're here in the southeastern foothills of Larissa.

Primitive Argos.

What you're about to see is really special,

carved out of the side of a mountain,

take a guess what it is.

(inspiring music)

Wow.

This is absolutely massive.

Look at the height of it!

This theatre held 20,000 people.

It's up there with Epidavros.

It's probably the poor cousin of Epidavros because

the Epidavros is probably in probably the best nick

for a theatre in the world.

But for me, this is a special one.

Carved out of the mountain.

Covered for 1,400 years before they found it.

Let's go and have a closer look and I'll tell

you all about it.

They've uncovered it and nothing has been done to it.

This was built in 250 BC in the Hellenistic period.

And it was considered such a good theatre

that when Hadrian came around in 100 AD,

he did some work on it as well.

Wow.

The Roman Emperor Hadrian visited the theatre

on many occasions.

He loved it so much that amongst other things,

he commissioned the building of this enormous bath complex.

You know, a closer look at the theatre and you realise

that nature has done her job through erosion

and you almost feel like covering it up again

for 1,000 years for people in the future.

In a moment of silence, I stopped to take in the view.

Looking at the theatre and baths I couldn't help but think

of the countless significant people from history

that would've done the same.

Soaking up the atmosphere made me wonder

that just maybe in a former life, I could have sat

and watched a performance in this very seat.

Amongst the numerous archaeological sites

in the plains and hills of Argos are a number of tombs,

but these are unlike most others

you'll come across in Greece.

In fact, they're so unique that despite a lot of research,

little is known about them.

You know, I've been construction all of my life,

and I love wonderful structures.

I've been really looking forward to seeing

what we're about to see now.

If I mentioned pyramids, the first thing

you'll think of is Egypt.

Well, many Greeks say this one pre-dates

the pyramids of Giza.

It might not be as grand as theirs, and to be honest

is a little underwhelming in terms of its size,

but what makes the pyramid of Hellinikon so interesting

is the story behind it.

Apart from the obvious idea that this was a tomb,

some 20th century archaeologists believe

that it could have been a place of fortification or worship.

There's lots of theories.

There's even a theory that the first battle with shields

was fought around here in the Peloponnesian wars

and prior to that, and that this was a tomb for the soldiers

that fought in that war.

A lot of ideas, but no one's really working on it.

It's bare and it's such a wonderful structure.

Sad, but maybe I might go home

and start working on it myself.

Like a lot of things in Greece, there's a certain amount

of myth and legend behind the stories you hear.

We're a passionate lot and sometimes

the truth gets stretched a touch, but after hundreds

of years of the same story being told,

we trust our archaeologists' investigations

will clear up the blur created

by these inspirational stories.

You know, when I get home, some of my Egyptian mates,

one of them is an engineer, is probably going to give me

a hard time about our pyramids.

Because their pyramids, Egyptian pyramids,

you can stick a knife in between the gaps.

Ours aren't exactly the best structures in the world.

But big difference though, they took 50 years

to build theirs with 10,000 slaves.

(upbeat music)

We did it in half the time with free men.

Take that, Tarek.

One of the only mentions of Greek pyramids

in early writing comes from the Greek geographer Pausanias.

He visited the area some time in the middle

of the second century AD.

He mentions seeing pyramids as he passed through,

not this particular one, but similar structures,

and that carved on the sides were reliefs

that looked like shields.

He tells of a story that this was the site of a great battle

for the throne between two brothers.

The fight ended in a draw and subsequently the pyramids

were built as a tomb for the dead.

Now that's a cool story!

The story of Greece has captured the imagination

of scholars, historians, artists, and poets since antiquity.

Today, it continues to inspire and be a source of wonder

for people the world over.

No matter how many times I visit, I'm always left in awe

of what I discover, and I'm constantly drawn back

to search for more.

(uplifting music)

You know, it's not a good idea to swim in ports.

It's dangerous first of all, but sometimes they let out

a little bit of the water out of boats

that you don't really wanna be swimming around.

But quite often if you just travel 500 metres around

the corner the water is crystal clear and it's beautiful.

Just like here!

There's that little rock pool over there.

Helen will be here in about half an hour,

we'll probably miss her.

One of the best things about being an early riser

is that I often get to see places well before the tourists

and crowds arrive.

It gives you an entirely different appreciation for things.

Sensational.

It means you can move a little slower

and take everything in, free from distractions.

The only downside is cafes are usually closed.

Thankfully, I've got a coffee machine on the boat.

Riding around the coast, you notice there isn't

a huge amount of greenery.

The rocky slopes aren't very fertile, but somehow fragosika,

or prickly pears, have managed to make a foothold

on these hillsides.

It absolutely thrives in what you would think

are adverse growing conditions on barren ground.

But like the locals, it's adapted perfectly

to the environment.

You see it growing throughout the southern Peloponnese

and most islands.

They're a summer fruit and make for great eating,

and apparently, they're good for you too.

However, harvesting them is a bit of a challenge.

The reward is well worth the effort though,

and a few pin pricks.

Continuing further along, I reached my destination before

the first beach-goers had arrived,

the beautiful Arvanitia Beach.

Well, it's our last day in Napflion and we're here

at the beach around the corner.

You can even see a relic of the global financial crisis

up there, an old hotel.

But put that aside, and two hours from now,

this place will be full of tables and chairs,

packed with people, music blaring, people in and out

of the water like basking seals.

It's a sight to be seen.

I better get in the water before they get here.

Seconds after this shot, I was battling to get

my shirt off.

Yeah, I probably should have taken the helmet off first.

Needless to say, the camera crew had a good laugh

at my expense, but the joke was on them.

While they were off getting the pretty pictures

you're looking at now, I was floating in the sea without

a care in the world.

Who's laughing now, fellas?

(calm music)

After a relaxing few days in Nafplion,

we made our way down the coast towards Limeni Geraka.

This part of the Peloponnese coastline is dotted

with countless beaches, where crystal clear water laps

on pebbled or sandy shores.

A lot of them, particularly the easily accessible ones,

are frequented by tourists and in the summer months

they can get quite busy.

However, there are plenty of more secluded places

that take a little bit of effort to get to.

Over the years, I've noticed the creation

of an increasing amount of mapped trails to some

of the hidden gems.

The great thing about getting off the well-worn paths

and exploring these short walks is that occasionally,

you find a strip of sand in an idyllic setting

that you can call your own for the day.

You know what I love about Greece is the unpredictability.

We're heading down the eastern coast of the Peloponnese

to Geraka down the road, and we found Vaviathlaki.

It's not even on the map, but the captain knows about it.

We're about to get in, have a swim, have some lunch,

and then move on.

Apart from the ancient ruins, everyone knows Greece

for its beautiful, warm blue waters, the vast amount

of islands, and even greater abundance of beaches.

But what most don't know is that despite being one

of the most beautiful holiday destinations in the world,

the majority of the place is left unexplored by tourists.

The average traveller spends time in Athens

and then goes to places like Mykonos, Crete, Rhodes,

Santorini, or Corfu.

But head to the lesser-known locales and you'll find

a very different Greece.

One that's peaceful and traditional.

A place where you can get away from it all and unwind

in a setting that's as picturesque as anything else

you'll come across on the planet.

Finding these hidden delights is the fun part.

Most of them aren't on travel blogs

or websites with lists of must-do activities

or top 10 places to visit.

You need some local knowledge to find them.

And yes, we don't all have a friend that knows

the far away corners of Greece, but we can all take the time

to talk to people in small towns and villages

we pass through and ask them what they think

is the best part of their area to visit.

It's only by digging a little deeper than a guidebook

that you unearth the most unique gems.

(uplifting music)

The water in this part of the world is generally calm.

It's a relatively protected stretch of coastline,

so it makes for smooth sailing.

But when it gets rough, it takes on

a whole different personality, an ugly one.

Our journey was taking us south along

the Peloponnese peninsula, from Nafplion to Limeni Geraka.

I briefly visited here a few years ago and found

a nice little port to spend some time in.

The cove was essentially discovered by accident.

It was one of those rough days, where foul weather forced

a fisherman to search for protection.

He came across this sheltered inlet

and waited out the storm, and naturally,

a harbour town was eventually built here.

Today it's the gateway to the inland town of Geraka,

birthplace of the actor Telly Savalis,

famed for playing detective Kojak.

If you've never heard of him, Google it,

you'll immediately see why some people say I look

a bit like him.

Anyway, this place has a more important story to it,

one that's common for villages throughout Greece,

particularly those in more remote areas.

(lighthearted music)

We're about five kilometres inland

from that beautiful fjord port of Gerakas.

This is Gerakas town, and don't look at it now.

It is beautiful, but 50 years ago, those mountain were full

of fields that were tomatoes, olive trees,

lemon trees, you name it.

And it was a thriving population here.

The school alone had 200 children.

150-odd homes.

But there's only 40 people living there now,

and mostly over the ages of 60 and 70 years old.

Why is that so?

Everybody immigrated.

They all went to America, they went to Australia,

they went to Canada.

Much like many of the villages here in Peloponnesos,

Kremasti, Patras, all of these places.

But it's still a beautiful old village.

Even that house up the top there, that white one with

the two windows, that was the house

of Telly Savalis' father for you movie buffs.

In town I met Christos, a born-and-bred local.

His tale is typical of many others that come from here.

When worked dried up, he was forced to travel abroad

to support his family, so for much of his life

he's travelled back and forth to the US.

So you went every year, and you came back?

You did it for 34 years?

You never saw a summer?

You were in winter there, and winter here.

- Yup.

- Unbelievable.

And you look like a strong man.

70 winters, amazing.

Many people have left here, like you did, but you came back.

(speaking in foreign language)

No cars.

Christos is one of very few that are still hanging on.

Unfortunately, his story is not unique.

It's one that's told over and over again throughout

the villages of inland Greece and in much of Europe.

The changing dynamics created by war and economics often

impacts those the furthest removed from it.

So quiet.

All I can hear is the wind in the leaves.

But this is typical of many inland towns in Greece.

Where the boys left here, in the 30s, 40s, and 50s,

15 years old, 16 years old, and never came back 'cause

they established their homes and their families

in Canada, Australia, America.

It's kind of sad, only a handful of old people left here,

but that's life.

Flag's still flying though.

(sombre music)

Out here, the decisions made by politicians

in the big cities can be devastating,

and very long-lasting.

However, while the inland villages have suffered greatly,

those on the coast and the islands have thrived.

It's a complete contrast to centuries ago,

when people lived in the hills away from the dangers

of the coastal towns that were constantly under threat

from pirate attack.

One positive that can be drawn from it all

is that places like this haven't been impacted

by outside influences.

There's no big brand stores or fast food chains.

Life is far more traditional than in the major centres

or tourist hubs, which for some is why they remain.

Back by the water and things are very different.

It's only a short journey, but might as well be

a million miles away.

The setting was stunning.

Fishing boats came in at the end of the day's work

and yachts set anchor for the night.

There was a sense of calm in the air,

and while it's impossible to forget the hardships faced

by those only a few kilometres away,

I had a chance to reflect and be thankful

for the life I lead.

(uplifting music)

(energetic music)

After a night in Limeni Geraka, we kept cruising south,

to the stunning town of Monemvasia.

It's an awe-inspiring place that no matter

how many times I see it, I'm always overwhelmed.

The town and imposing fort are built

on this towering rocky outcrop that sits a couple

of hundred metres off the mainland.

At only one kilometre long and a few hundred metres wide,

Monemvasia might be small, but it sure does pack a punch.

From sea, land, or above, it's an incredible sight.

You know, when you come to Monemvasia and see

this beautiful rock, you'll more than likely come by car,

and you'll arrive here in the Newtown.

Newtown actually has something to offer, not only just

where you stay, but it's got some beautiful sweets,

awesome coffee, and some nice tavernas.

Monemvasia is a very significant monument

in Greece's history.

As a result, over the years tourism has grown

to an extent that they've had to build up

the town's infrastructure to support all the visitors.

Unfortunately though, the financial crisis

has decimated the holiday industry.

Recently, the ferry service was suspended,

which makes it even harder for people to get here.

The flow on effect increases the issue,

which is hurting the local community.

However, with nearly 1,500 years of history,

these ups and downs aren't new to the place.

Monemvasia has bounced back from far worse

many times before.

The fortress sits perched 100 metres above the town below.

The stonewalls and towers have weathered through

the centuries, but it remains an imposing feature

on the skyline.

You could imagine an invading force looking at it

in fear and wonder.

Down below, the streets are filled with

an interesting mix of architecture spanning 1,000 years

or more of occupation.

It's the type of place you need a guide or a book

to really get an appreciation of the history.

So Effie, how old is this beautiful town of Monemvasia?

- It was first founded in around 580 AD,

so it is a very old place and it has never been

abandoned until today.

- So what was the population at it's peak?

- We can't be certain about it,

but some old books say even 20,000 people.

- Wow, and today?

- 20 people.

- [Peter] Wow, 20,000 and 20, amazing.

(gentle music)

I like the greenery in Monemvasia.

There's little bits of greenery everywhere you know?

- [Effie] Very few, yeah.

- [Peter] Yeah, but it's there.

- It is. - Yeah.

Through Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman rule,

the town and fortress stood.

Each of the invading powers came and went,

leaving their mark in the form of building designs specific

to the style of the period and their tastes or needs.

In amongst the narrow laneways, often hidden from view,

you'll find various examples of period architecture,

much of it in fantastic condition.

There's a lot of steps here, how far have we got to go?

- [Effie] It doesn't matter, it's worth it, worth the steps.

- [Peter] On purpose you're not telling me

how far we've got to go!

- [Effie] It isn't very far, I promise.

- [Peter] Okay.

I see there's ongoing repairs of the stairs here,

which is good.

- Always, Dinos is working for

the archaeological service here,

he has a permanent position and he is one of the few people

who know how to build things in the traditional way.

- Oh, so he's been trained for this?

- Yes, through work.

- Fantastic.

The stairs are seemingly endless.

I can only imagine the trials the builders went through

when constructing this thing.

It would have been an incredible labour,

carting stones and timber up and down the slope

in searing heat.

Then of course, there would have been plenty of work

to maintain it through the centuries.

Effie, I can't believe we are already here,

it looks so high from down the bottom.

- [Effie] I know, I had the same impression

when I first came here but it is much easier.

- 10 minutes!

- [Effie] And we're already in front of the gate

of the out of town.

- [Peter] And look at it, it's just so majestic, so grand,

and yet it looks it's the same as was 1,000 years ago.

- [Effie] It is!

- [Peter] It is, it is, that's right!

It's very low.

They weren't very tall people in those times were they?

- [Effie] I think it's not a matter of height,

it is just how they made them.

- How they built things? - Yeah.

- These old stone structures have a way

of putting things into context.

There are moments when they can make me feel

a tad insignificant in terms of my time walking the earth.

When I'm long gone and but a memory,

these walls will likely still remain.

That said, I'd like to think that a handful

of the buildings I construct might well be part

of the urban landscape in 1,000 years from now.

Wow, Effie.

- Quite impressive.

- I can see now why it's so important to you, in your job.

I look at this massive fortification

and it's almost like they sculpted it out of rock.

I see so many walls, so many fortifications,

different colours, how long would it have taken to build

this magnificent piece?

- This was an ongoing construction.

The walls are not that many, the needs to fortify this place

were limited because it has fortification on its own.

I mean the rock means there's natural defence here,

we have walls around the lower town.

Some walls are on this side of the upper town because

the attacks were coming from the sea, from there.

But it was something that was happening all the time,

restoring the damaged parts, and it's still happening today.

- Wow, now I understand there's a wonderful church

at the top here, Agia Sofia?

- Yes.

- Can we go and have a look at it?

- Of course we will.

- Let's go.

Wow, this is absolutely magnificent.

One of the most important and oldest Byzantine churches

in Greece is this place, the church of Agia Sofia.

It was built in the 12th century

and is in amazing condition, both inside and out.

Wow, Effie this is amazing.

In the next episode the journey continues as I explore more

of Monemvasia and the inland area nearby.

I'm gonna learn about the past of the island

and go from one of the oldest churches in Greece

to one of the most historic wine-growing regions

in the world.

For many centuries a lot of wines from across

the country would pass through the Port of Monemvasia

before reaching other parts of the Mediterranean

and as far as Northern Europe.

From there I make my way to another tiny island

that punches well above its weight, Elafonisos.

It might only be 16 square kilometres in size,

but it's a hidden paradise with a picturesque coast

that rivals the prettiest places you'll come across.

As the day came to an end and the crew repositioned Mia Zoi

to a more sheltered part of the island,

I spent the final hours of sunlight enjoying the view.

There are few places more spectacular than this.

(exuberant music)