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So, what you're looking at now is not
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Philips Hue, it's not Signal RGB, it's
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not Govee, and it's not fancy LEDs. And
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my guess is by the end of this video,
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you'll be just as excited as I am about
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this new Ambu light option.
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Now, the number one question that I've
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gotten over the years on my sync box and
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Signal RGB videos has always been, will
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this work with my TV's built-in apps?
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And the answer to that has always been
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no, but today that's all about to
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change, kind of. I'll first start out
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with the awesome news. Someone was
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finally able to create an Ambu light
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WLED compatible Android TV app. And
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guys, it's absolutely incredible. So,
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let's first go over how to get that set
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up. I'll be using the Gledopto 4D Elite
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WLED controller, which I have used in
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many of my projects. Then, I'll use some
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of my go-to 12-V SK6812 individually
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addressable LEDs. These have 60 LEDs per
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meter, and for an Ambu light setup, you
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really do want to use something that has
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a dedicated white option like these.
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Now, you could just use an extra JST
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connector and plug the lights in and
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you're all set. But, I always like to
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connect my own 18-gauge silicone wires
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to the beginning. And one of the reasons
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I do this is because I never really know
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where I'm going to be putting the
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controller in relationship to the
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beginning of the lights. So, I can just
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connect some long wires to the strip and
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then cut them down to the perfect length
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I need when the time comes. I'll speed
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through this part, but if you are
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interested in learning how to solder,
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I'll leave a link to a couple videos I
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made going over the easy steps with
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close-up footage and detailed commentary
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that I highly recommend checking out.
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All right, so for the TV, I'll be
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installing the LEDs in the back of my
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65-in Sony Bravia 8.
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And what really helps is I found these
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corner LED mounting clips on Amazon that
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work great for making the 90° turns.
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I'll first stick on the corners.
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Then, I'll start bottom right and work
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my way up around the perimeter. And once
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I get back to the beginning, I'll cut
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off any extra lights. And I will mention
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at some point, you will need to count
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the LEDs. I have 47 on either side and
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85 on the top and bottom.
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Once that's done, here I'll zoom in
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closer so you can see how nice the
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corner turns worked out. And on this one
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in particular, the little clips aren't
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covering any of the LEDs. But on a
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different corner, you can see how they
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are covering up some of the lights. If
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that happens, I just snip off the
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plastic piece and everything still stays
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put. But this way I won't be getting any
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dark spots or weird shadows on the wall.
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Then I'll zoom in bottom right so you
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can see how things look where the LED
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strip begins and ends.
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For the controller, I'll use some 3M
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sticky pads and attach it to the
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backside of the TV. In placement for you
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will probably depend on where you plug
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everything in, but this is where I can
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now cut off any extra length I don't
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need and connect the LEDs to the
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controller.
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I'll put the TV back on the mount and
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for power I'll be using a 12-V 3-A
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supply, which will be more than enough
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for the LEDs.
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Now if you're maybe installing this in
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your living room where you have great
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Wi-Fi, you can skip this part. Me
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however, I'm in my basement that gets
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horrible Wi-Fi. So what works best is I
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have about five of these little wireless
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hubs that I can place anywhere around my
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house. Then I can run my ethernet cord
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from one of the three openings on the
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back right up to the WLED controller and
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this gets me much better performance.
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Go ahead and plug everything in, fire up
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your TV, and go to the App Store. There
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is a free version called ScreenGlow that
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lets you set up one strip and gives you
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some basic customization or a paid
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option called SceneGlow that's much more
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robust. Either option would work
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perfectly for this basic setup, but I
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for sure said take my money and paid for
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SceneGlow. Once the app is downloaded,
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you should see a screen that looks like
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this.
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Now before going into setup, you need to
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first make sure you have your WLED
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configured. For the strip behind the TV,
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I have my brightness limiter turned on
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and set to 2900 milliamps. Strip type is
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SK6812.
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For length, I have a total of 264 LEDs
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set to the GPIO 16 on the controller and
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auto calculate WLED dual. Once this is
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done, I can then go into setup on the
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Scene Glow app.
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The first thing you'll do is put in the
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IP that's assigned to your WLED
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controller, and that can be found right
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here in your WLED app.
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UDP port defaults to 4080, and output
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FPS is at 30. Then I put the total
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number of LEDs in this field, but if you
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wanted to add another segment of lights
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connected to the same controller, or at
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a different controller altogether, you
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can do that as well. However, since we
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just have the one strip, I'll remove
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output two and move on.
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I kept the performance diagnostics off,
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and make sure to do the white balance
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calibration. I'll leave the home
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assistant section blank and hit save.
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Now we need to go to customization.
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Capture resolution is set to 320 by 180,
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and depending on your TV's hardware, you
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can go higher, but 320 by 180 is all you
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really need. Then for my WLED output
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one, I'll go into basic settings.
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Lighting used is set to screen glow,
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brightness cap I have at 100%, smoothing
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set to 50, black threshold at four,
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white suppression at 100, and motion
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sensitivity is at about 40. For LED sync
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delay, on my TV, the lights that I
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installed changed faster than the
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content on the TV, so I added a 40
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millisecond delay so that everything
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syncs up perfectly.
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Next, for fixture geometry, physical
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layout is screen perimeter, edge depth
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is 10%, and here's where I tell the
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program where my 264 LEDs are. 47 on the
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left, 85 on the top, 47 on the right,
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and 85 on the bottom. Then make sure to
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input where the lights start at, and for
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me, they were installed bottom left and
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going in a clockwise direction. In the
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effect settings, I have the scene change
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slider a little bit past the halfway
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mark, and this will smooth out the
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transitions from one scene to the next.
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And last but not least, color
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adjustment. Here I have brightness at
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75, saturation is at 175, and gamma is
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at 2.5, and everything else I kept at
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100. Go ahead and hit save, and then you
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can start Scene Glow.
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Now I've probably done more AmbuLed
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videos than anyone else on YouTube, and
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I can confidently say that you're going
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to be blown away by the accuracy and
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zero delay performance. But, what's so
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cool about this is that I can use any
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WLED controller, any LED strip that I
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want, and create a truly customized
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setup.
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So, I know many of you watched my
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SignalRGB projector setup video that
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requires a PC to be the source, but the
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A1 Ethereum UST projector's OS is
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Android TV. And yes, I was able to
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connect all the strips I had in this
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setup to Scene Glow, and it worked
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flawlessly. And when I say pinpoint
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accuracy and zero delay, here's a
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perfect example. I'll go frame by frame
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in this shot and pay attention to right
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here. Watch as the street light enters
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the frame and how literally at the exact
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same moment the LEDs behind the screen
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light up. And this goes back to being
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able to control the delay in the
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settings to get things to completely
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sync up.
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So, Scene Glow's obviously using screen
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capture technology. And as expected,
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there are the usual limitations when it
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comes to DRM content. But, if anyone has
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found a way around this without having
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to pay Philips Hue $130 for their sync
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TV app, please let us know because
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that's pretty much the final thing
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preventing us from truly having a
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complete solution. Well, that about does
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it for this one. I'll leave you with a
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lot more footage of everything in
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action, and I will leave the link to the
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Scene Glow app in the description, or
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you can pause the video and scan the QR
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code to check it out. Thank you all for
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watching, and as always, I hope you have
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a blessed day.
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>> [music]
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[music]
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[music]
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[music]
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[music]
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[music]
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[music]
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>> Oh.
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>> [music]
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>> Oh.
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Oh.
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Oh.
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>> [music]
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[music]
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[music]
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[music]
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[music]
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[music]
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[music]
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>> Oh.
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>> [music]
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>> Oh.
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