Original subtitles

So, what you're looking at now is not

Philips Hue, it's not Signal RGB, it's

not Govee, and it's not fancy LEDs. And

my guess is by the end of this video,

you'll be just as excited as I am about

this new Ambu light option.

Now, the number one question that I've

gotten over the years on my sync box and

Signal RGB videos has always been, will

this work with my TV's built-in apps?

And the answer to that has always been

no, but today that's all about to

change, kind of. I'll first start out

with the awesome news. Someone was

finally able to create an Ambu light

WLED compatible Android TV app. And

guys, it's absolutely incredible. So,

let's first go over how to get that set

up. I'll be using the Gledopto 4D Elite

WLED controller, which I have used in

many of my projects. Then, I'll use some

of my go-to 12-V SK6812 individually

addressable LEDs. These have 60 LEDs per

meter, and for an Ambu light setup, you

really do want to use something that has

a dedicated white option like these.

Now, you could just use an extra JST

connector and plug the lights in and

you're all set. But, I always like to

connect my own 18-gauge silicone wires

to the beginning. And one of the reasons

I do this is because I never really know

where I'm going to be putting the

controller in relationship to the

beginning of the lights. So, I can just

connect some long wires to the strip and

then cut them down to the perfect length

I need when the time comes. I'll speed

through this part, but if you are

interested in learning how to solder,

I'll leave a link to a couple videos I

made going over the easy steps with

close-up footage and detailed commentary

that I highly recommend checking out.

All right, so for the TV, I'll be

installing the LEDs in the back of my

65-in Sony Bravia 8.

And what really helps is I found these

corner LED mounting clips on Amazon that

work great for making the 90° turns.

I'll first stick on the corners.

Then, I'll start bottom right and work

my way up around the perimeter. And once

I get back to the beginning, I'll cut

off any extra lights. And I will mention

at some point, you will need to count

the LEDs. I have 47 on either side and

85 on the top and bottom.

Once that's done, here I'll zoom in

closer so you can see how nice the

corner turns worked out. And on this one

in particular, the little clips aren't

covering any of the LEDs. But on a

different corner, you can see how they

are covering up some of the lights. If

that happens, I just snip off the

plastic piece and everything still stays

put. But this way I won't be getting any

dark spots or weird shadows on the wall.

Then I'll zoom in bottom right so you

can see how things look where the LED

strip begins and ends.

For the controller, I'll use some 3M

sticky pads and attach it to the

backside of the TV. In placement for you

will probably depend on where you plug

everything in, but this is where I can

now cut off any extra length I don't

need and connect the LEDs to the

controller.

I'll put the TV back on the mount and

for power I'll be using a 12-V 3-A

supply, which will be more than enough

for the LEDs.

Now if you're maybe installing this in

your living room where you have great

Wi-Fi, you can skip this part. Me

however, I'm in my basement that gets

horrible Wi-Fi. So what works best is I

have about five of these little wireless

hubs that I can place anywhere around my

house. Then I can run my ethernet cord

from one of the three openings on the

back right up to the WLED controller and

this gets me much better performance.

Go ahead and plug everything in, fire up

your TV, and go to the App Store. There

is a free version called ScreenGlow that

lets you set up one strip and gives you

some basic customization or a paid

option called SceneGlow that's much more

robust. Either option would work

perfectly for this basic setup, but I

for sure said take my money and paid for

SceneGlow. Once the app is downloaded,

you should see a screen that looks like

this.

Now before going into setup, you need to

first make sure you have your WLED

configured. For the strip behind the TV,

I have my brightness limiter turned on

and set to 2900 milliamps. Strip type is

SK6812.

For length, I have a total of 264 LEDs

set to the GPIO 16 on the controller and

auto calculate WLED dual. Once this is

done, I can then go into setup on the

Scene Glow app.

The first thing you'll do is put in the

IP that's assigned to your WLED

controller, and that can be found right

here in your WLED app.

UDP port defaults to 4080, and output

FPS is at 30. Then I put the total

number of LEDs in this field, but if you

wanted to add another segment of lights

connected to the same controller, or at

a different controller altogether, you

can do that as well. However, since we

just have the one strip, I'll remove

output two and move on.

I kept the performance diagnostics off,

and make sure to do the white balance

calibration. I'll leave the home

assistant section blank and hit save.

Now we need to go to customization.

Capture resolution is set to 320 by 180,

and depending on your TV's hardware, you

can go higher, but 320 by 180 is all you

really need. Then for my WLED output

one, I'll go into basic settings.

Lighting used is set to screen glow,

brightness cap I have at 100%, smoothing

set to 50, black threshold at four,

white suppression at 100, and motion

sensitivity is at about 40. For LED sync

delay, on my TV, the lights that I

installed changed faster than the

content on the TV, so I added a 40

millisecond delay so that everything

syncs up perfectly.

Next, for fixture geometry, physical

layout is screen perimeter, edge depth

is 10%, and here's where I tell the

program where my 264 LEDs are. 47 on the

left, 85 on the top, 47 on the right,

and 85 on the bottom. Then make sure to

input where the lights start at, and for

me, they were installed bottom left and

going in a clockwise direction. In the

effect settings, I have the scene change

slider a little bit past the halfway

mark, and this will smooth out the

transitions from one scene to the next.

And last but not least, color

adjustment. Here I have brightness at

75, saturation is at 175, and gamma is

at 2.5, and everything else I kept at

100. Go ahead and hit save, and then you

can start Scene Glow.

Now I've probably done more AmbuLed

videos than anyone else on YouTube, and

I can confidently say that you're going

to be blown away by the accuracy and

zero delay performance. But, what's so

cool about this is that I can use any

WLED controller, any LED strip that I

want, and create a truly customized

setup.

So, I know many of you watched my

SignalRGB projector setup video that

requires a PC to be the source, but the

A1 Ethereum UST projector's OS is

Android TV. And yes, I was able to

connect all the strips I had in this

setup to Scene Glow, and it worked

flawlessly. And when I say pinpoint

accuracy and zero delay, here's a

perfect example. I'll go frame by frame

in this shot and pay attention to right

here. Watch as the street light enters

the frame and how literally at the exact

same moment the LEDs behind the screen

light up. And this goes back to being

able to control the delay in the

settings to get things to completely

sync up.

So, Scene Glow's obviously using screen

capture technology. And as expected,

there are the usual limitations when it

comes to DRM content. But, if anyone has

found a way around this without having

to pay Philips Hue $130 for their sync

TV app, please let us know because

that's pretty much the final thing

preventing us from truly having a

complete solution. Well, that about does

it for this one. I'll leave you with a

lot more footage of everything in

action, and I will leave the link to the

Scene Glow app in the description, or

you can pause the video and scan the QR

code to check it out. Thank you all for

watching, and as always, I hope you have

a blessed day.

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