Original subtitles

Hello friends welcome back to the bench

this is a z390 gaming motherboard

very nice one with two m.2

slots built in Wi-Fi

uh

USB type c the

spdif output very nice

not a lot of um not very many USB ports

but definitely enough

and six SATA

outputs

three

PCI Express I expect this one is full

Lane and this is half

usually I didn't add in check even if I

have a board view for this one probably

not but maybe I can find it on butt caps

anyways what's wrong with it

so

as soon as I turn it on

see that flashes

all these LEDs flash for a second

and it seems like it's dead but we can

turn it on

this one right the board is on

and one red LED see Let Me Maybe bring

the camera this way

yeah there's one LED red LED shining

over here and these are VGA CPU

Boot and the ram

so it's detecting that it doesn't have a

CPU

and that's why it's not turning on

the second problem that I see with it or

the first problem actually

other than now I I feel something warm

here

something

getting warm here I'll check it out with

a thermal camera but before we do that

this port

is damaged physical damage obviously

so that needs to be replaced or that

Shield can be maybe we can only replace

the shield on it not the entire port

or slot

second issue

I'm gonna need to grab a scope

is why it doesn't not have a CPU

installed

oh

because we have some band pins and let's

see the state of them

[Music]

there we go

yeah

okay

and there's someone here

okay that's good enough to test it

this is

still only flashed hmm that's not good

and it's still flushed the CPU

oh okay so I didn't come back down

fine yeah that could be it

I don't know it's saying VGA yeah let's

just correct yeah but now now

everything's lighting up

foreign

VGA

[Music]

okay

all right okay we have

an image

um I didn't connect any mouse or

keyboard or anything

but it's alive so now all we need to do

is just replace this nasty

a pcie slot

and the board will be good to go

all right let's get to it

all right how do we replace this guy

over here well the easiest way

would be just to put flux on it on both

sides uh get the harder

station with no nozzle and and glow on

this side until it just falls on the

other side then just clean it put the

new one in that would have been nice and

easy solution

however you do need

a little bit better device than this

this one is just not capable of

delivering that much heat so the other

possibility with this would be using

preheater from the bottom

and giving it like 100 degrees and then

blowing with this from the top that

would work but we don't have a preheater

either

the other concern is that there is

plenty of components on this side

uh some chips over here some capacitors

there we got plastic here plastic here

and we got two electrolytic

capacitors

and so there's a lot of concerns that we

have around this socket

so I'm going to choose and the most

tedious and most boring way possible

meaning we're just gonna wake every

single pin one by one

until they're all dislodged

and for that to be successful the

soldering iron alone will not be enough

we will have to use some other glowing

simultaneously

before I actually even start putting

flux on it or start the process I will

preheat the entire board with this about

150 degrees and I'm just gonna blow on

it for for a while for the board to get

nice and hot

but not too hot that will make it a lot

easier to operate with my iron

and the tip I'm going to be using will

be the Chisel or knife tip

um which

um is capable of conducting a lot of

heat into the into the board the

temperature will likely be somewhere

between 350 to 380 which seems like a

high high temperature but I'll see how

it goes sometimes when the temperature

is too high it's it's not working that

great

um we do need to heat up the wick along

with the board and this other for it to

offer it all to flow if we keep it hot

for too long the solder is going to

start making its way to the other side

of the board and it'll

hold the socket from this side really

well and it's going to be

really difficult to to get rid of it the

goods are the easy part of it is that we

don't need to reuse this socket so we

can damage the socket through the

process of removal because it is already

damaged obviously that's why we're

removing it

uh there's not only this because this

could be straightened probably

somehow maybe but the pins are bent in

there so we we don't trust the socket

plus the the clip is missing on this

side

um so this is a pretty big hit

um so

um the as long as long as we take off

the The Shield so those big pens

um the rest we can we can actually pull

the port with some of the pins still on

the board because those pins are not

very firm in the socket if you if you

pull too hard you'll just um the pins

will stay on the board and then we can

individually remove those pins that

don't want to get off

uh the main uh the main

um concern is obviously not to damage

the board

there are some tiny traces

on this side so we're gonna have to be

extra careful with that not overheating

it and

um trying to do it as clean as possible

the flux we're gonna use is gonna be

mtech

[Music]

um

nc559 very nice smell through it I must

say I normally use king bow but I'm kind

of low on Kinko and it's RMA Flags um

which I don't know you do need to clean

it this one technically obviously you

have to clean any flux now this is NC so

it stands for no clean

we'll see how that goes all right let's

get to it

[Music]

thank you

[Music]

[Music]

thank you

[Music]

[Music]

thank you

[Music]

foreign

[Music]

foreign

[Music]

foreign

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

[Applause]

foreign

[Music]

[Music]

all right

[Applause]

[Music]

thank you

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

foreign

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

thank you

[Music]

thank you

[Music]

foreign

[Music]

foreign

[Music]

[Music]

thank you

[Music]

foreign

[Music]

y so the board is out no damage spins no

damage traces one damaged capacitor 220

Nano no big deal I'll replace it

um so this turned out to be extremely

tedious extremely difficult

and main reason is ground pens dissipate

temperature a lot faster than the data

pins

so data pins are easy to clean easy or

relatively easy to clean

while ground pins not so much they just

don't want to melt the wig doesn't want

to catch it

so I had to utilize a lot of hot air

and then wicking it also didn't work and

and I must say the NC flux is not the

best for this RMA Flags works a lot

better for desoldering I somehow with

um the wig catches a lot better on the

RMA Flags

but I resorted to using solder sucker

just blowing harder and and sucking each

individual pin and that is the most

effective now every every socket every

through hole is clean

and it's ready for a socket replacement

um I've lost the majority of the footage

so but it was it was extremely boring

actually the the only reason because I

couldn't really

these other all depends to the because I

wanted to just be solder everything and

just pull the socket that was then that

was the idea then well idea maybe idea

was that these other the majority of

them then blow some hot air from the

back and pull the socket and it should

come out clean

that did not happen

you can see only a few bins actually let

loose the the rest that are missing here

stayed on the board

which means then I could just take the

harder glow on it and and pull it with

tweezer

and that's what I did that actually was

a lot easier and a lot quicker than

trying to these other pins from the

other side

either way this is not the best method

but this is the best you can do with

cheap tools like this one

it's perfectly capable

of doing a lot of work but not this work

and the same if we wanted to resolder

bch or

or even even some some chips well this

one would be okay this one we could

replace in this one but PCH would be

hard the same with the CPU socket that

would also not be possible with this

thing

all that requires preheater

to just keep the board warm from the

back and then you can operate from the

top or the other way around

anyways as you can see it is possible

doing it in the very hard way that's

what this video is going to be titled

doing it a very hard way very

inefficient way but that's what you get

to do if you don't have proper tools

and I don't have a socket to replace it

with yet it's coming to me over from

China so I'm going to end the video here

and if anyone's interested I might um I

might publish another video where I

tested

because we don't know if it's even gonna

work but based on the visual inspection

everything should work fine there's no

damage to anything other than that one

capacitor that I will replace as soon as

I get uh as soon as I get capacitors as

well

all right guys thank you very much for

watching hope you found this useful in

any way and I shall see you in the next

one