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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:10,439 I'm in Anatolia 2 00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:13,439 exploring the stories and histories 3 00:00:13,440 --> 00:00:15,320 of this otherworldly place. 4 00:00:16,800 --> 00:00:19,439 The first seasonal snows have just arrived, 5 00:00:19,440 --> 00:00:22,479 so I pull off the road to warm up - 6 00:00:22,480 --> 00:00:24,319 Turkish style. 7 00:00:24,320 --> 00:00:26,999 One of the things I love so much about travelling 8 00:00:27,000 --> 00:00:30,439 is being introduced to local treats. 9 00:00:30,440 --> 00:00:34,439 And in this region, in the winter, they drink something called salep. 10 00:00:34,440 --> 00:00:36,039 Oh, I wish you could smell it. 11 00:00:36,040 --> 00:00:37,319 It's so good. 12 00:00:37,320 --> 00:00:42,119 So, this is made of powdered orchid roots 13 00:00:42,120 --> 00:00:45,919 and hot milk, and sugar and cinnamon. 14 00:00:45,920 --> 00:00:47,639 Mm. 15 00:00:47,640 --> 00:00:50,999 Oh, and it was meant to be good for all kinds of things. 16 00:00:51,000 --> 00:00:53,359 People said it was really good for your digestion, 17 00:00:53,360 --> 00:00:54,999 and boosted your immune system, 18 00:00:55,000 --> 00:00:57,519 and gave you a spring in your step. 19 00:00:57,520 --> 00:01:00,639 And it's certainly making me really, really happy. 20 00:01:00,640 --> 00:01:02,879 I mean, look... 21 00:01:02,880 --> 00:01:05,920 I can't actually imagine anything more beautiful than this. 22 00:01:08,000 --> 00:01:11,759 A landscape full of clues to how our lives 23 00:01:11,760 --> 00:01:16,000 were shaped from the ideas of antiquity and the medieval world. 24 00:01:21,000 --> 00:01:22,280 Across the globe... 25 00:01:23,440 --> 00:01:26,000 ...archaeologists are uncovering secrets... 26 00:01:27,040 --> 00:01:29,839 It's remarkable! 27 00:01:29,840 --> 00:01:32,239 ...in the most stunning places... 28 00:01:32,240 --> 00:01:36,079 We have a very, very lively history here. 29 00:01:36,080 --> 00:01:39,879 ...revealing fascinating connections between past and present. 30 00:01:39,880 --> 00:01:41,679 So these are fresh out of the earth? 31 00:01:41,680 --> 00:01:43,999 Yeah, they are fresh out of the earth. 32 00:01:44,000 --> 00:01:48,599 I'm crossing between continents and travelling through time 33 00:01:48,600 --> 00:01:54,599 on an epic adventure to unearth our ancient origins... 34 00:01:54,600 --> 00:01:55,960 Hello. 35 00:01:57,440 --> 00:02:00,119 Well, that's a pretty timeless experience. 36 00:02:00,120 --> 00:02:04,999 ...and rediscover long lost stories that still impact our lives today. 37 00:02:05,000 --> 00:02:07,839 I've got access to the very latest discoveries 38 00:02:07,840 --> 00:02:11,839 to piece together the truth of lost worlds. 39 00:02:11,840 --> 00:02:14,519 You just stepped back to the time of King Midas. 40 00:02:14,520 --> 00:02:15,720 It's just so beautiful. 41 00:02:30,720 --> 00:02:32,159 Anatolia - 42 00:02:32,160 --> 00:02:34,039 ancient Asia Minor - 43 00:02:34,040 --> 00:02:37,719 has left its mark on every era of human history, 44 00:02:37,720 --> 00:02:40,360 from antiquity to the modern world. 45 00:02:42,480 --> 00:02:46,719 I'm setting out to investigate how cultures connected here, 46 00:02:46,720 --> 00:02:50,000 changing history and laying the foundations of today. 47 00:02:52,000 --> 00:02:56,639 Now I'm heading west to one of the greatest sites in Turkiye. 48 00:02:56,640 --> 00:02:59,320 It's the ancient city of Ephesus. 49 00:03:04,960 --> 00:03:09,799 Ephesus is just inland from Turkiye's western coast, 50 00:03:09,800 --> 00:03:12,000 with roots 6,000 years deep... 51 00:03:14,000 --> 00:03:16,679 ...a magnet for travellers of all kinds 52 00:03:16,680 --> 00:03:19,000 and a creative hub for millennia. 53 00:03:20,760 --> 00:03:24,639 Ancient authors heaped their praise on this place. 54 00:03:24,640 --> 00:03:26,999 They described it as the greatest market 55 00:03:27,000 --> 00:03:29,399 this side of the Taurus Mountains, 56 00:03:29,400 --> 00:03:33,239 and somebody said this place was the light of Asia. 57 00:03:33,240 --> 00:03:35,439 But I'm on a mission to discover 58 00:03:35,440 --> 00:03:38,840 what that meant to the people who actually lived here. 59 00:03:41,840 --> 00:03:44,119 A multicultural metropolis. 60 00:03:44,120 --> 00:03:47,959 To understand how Ephesus became such a major city, 61 00:03:47,960 --> 00:03:50,440 I'm exploring right at the edge of the site. 62 00:03:52,640 --> 00:03:54,119 When you come up here, 63 00:03:54,120 --> 00:03:58,839 you get a sense of how massive this city was. 64 00:03:58,840 --> 00:04:03,320 At its height, between 200,000 and 300,000 people lived here. 65 00:04:07,000 --> 00:04:09,079 But the big surprise about this place 66 00:04:09,080 --> 00:04:12,399 is that main street down there is called Harbour Street. 67 00:04:12,400 --> 00:04:15,999 And that really is the secret to Ephesus' success, 68 00:04:16,000 --> 00:04:20,959 because that led down to a massive commercial port here. 69 00:04:20,960 --> 00:04:22,839 And you can't see it now, 70 00:04:22,840 --> 00:04:24,959 because back in antiquity, 71 00:04:24,960 --> 00:04:27,000 the sea came right up here. 72 00:04:31,760 --> 00:04:34,599 Archaeologists have found evidence of warehouses 73 00:04:34,600 --> 00:04:36,999 lining this commercial port 74 00:04:37,000 --> 00:04:38,799 and the shoreline, 75 00:04:38,800 --> 00:04:41,839 gradually moving over three miles west 76 00:04:41,840 --> 00:04:44,000 as the ancient estuary silted up. 77 00:04:48,000 --> 00:04:51,919 In its glory days, at the time of the Roman Empire, 78 00:04:51,920 --> 00:04:54,999 money flooded into Ephesus. 79 00:04:55,000 --> 00:04:59,440 Wealth that helped spark an awe-inspiring cultural flourishing. 80 00:05:05,200 --> 00:05:06,999 If you know where to look, 81 00:05:07,000 --> 00:05:09,679 there's evidence of the arts not just for public 82 00:05:09,680 --> 00:05:11,440 but private enjoyment... 83 00:05:13,480 --> 00:05:16,720 ...in Ephesus' incredibly preserved homes. 84 00:05:22,480 --> 00:05:24,519 These are the houses that belonged to people 85 00:05:24,520 --> 00:05:26,559 who were doing really, really well in life. 86 00:05:26,560 --> 00:05:29,759 And what's fascinating is that they cover their walls 87 00:05:29,760 --> 00:05:33,000 with images of arts, and music and culture. 88 00:05:35,000 --> 00:05:37,479 And I just had... I had to show you this. 89 00:05:37,480 --> 00:05:39,519 I just think it's completely adorable. 90 00:05:39,520 --> 00:05:42,999 So, this is a hugely magnified image 91 00:05:43,000 --> 00:05:46,599 that was found on a tiny, tiny ring right here. 92 00:05:46,600 --> 00:05:51,959 And it shows a little mouse playing a flute. 93 00:05:51,960 --> 00:05:52,960 Just divine. 94 00:05:54,520 --> 00:05:57,359 Frescoes of the muses in this house 95 00:05:57,360 --> 00:06:01,519 are a clue to one of Ephesus' passions, 96 00:06:01,520 --> 00:06:02,520 music. 97 00:06:04,680 --> 00:06:07,159 Here, rare evidence is emerging 98 00:06:07,160 --> 00:06:11,359 about what the people of antiquity actually listened to. 99 00:06:11,360 --> 00:06:14,359 There's been an astonishing discovery close to here as well, 100 00:06:14,360 --> 00:06:15,919 about 30 miles away. 101 00:06:15,920 --> 00:06:17,759 It's inscribed on marble, 102 00:06:17,760 --> 00:06:20,159 and it's the world's oldest 103 00:06:20,160 --> 00:06:22,999 complete musical composition, 104 00:06:23,000 --> 00:06:27,599 with notation, and melody and lyrics. 105 00:06:27,600 --> 00:06:30,319 The musical fragment has been reconstructed 106 00:06:30,320 --> 00:06:33,479 by archaeologists of sound, 107 00:06:33,480 --> 00:06:36,679 giving us a rare opportunity to travel through time 108 00:06:36,680 --> 00:06:41,320 to experience the same sounds in the same places as the ancients. 109 00:06:43,280 --> 00:06:46,719 So we know what the people who were living here 110 00:06:46,720 --> 00:06:49,999 would've been listening as they went about their daily lives. 111 00:06:50,000 --> 00:06:51,439 And I've got it on here, 112 00:06:51,440 --> 00:06:53,919 so I'm just going to have a listen as I walk around. 113 00:06:53,920 --> 00:06:55,560 STRINGED INSTRUMENT PLUCKS 114 00:06:58,680 --> 00:07:01,000 SINGING IN OTHER LANGUAGE 115 00:07:24,560 --> 00:07:27,679 I should just explain what the lyrics are. 116 00:07:27,680 --> 00:07:29,519 So, they're really poignant. 117 00:07:29,520 --> 00:07:30,999 So, the words are saying, 118 00:07:31,000 --> 00:07:34,919 "While you're in this world, shine brightly. 119 00:07:34,920 --> 00:07:37,999 "Make your mark. Don't be full of sorrow. 120 00:07:38,000 --> 00:07:41,039 "Because our time is limited, 121 00:07:41,040 --> 00:07:43,279 "and death will take its due." 122 00:07:43,280 --> 00:07:45,000 SINGING CONTINUES 123 00:08:01,880 --> 00:08:03,559 And on my travels here, 124 00:08:03,560 --> 00:08:07,000 I'm lucky enough to stay with a very musical family. 125 00:08:08,440 --> 00:08:11,159 I've just found out that the son of the house 126 00:08:11,160 --> 00:08:14,359 where I'm staying is actually inspired 127 00:08:14,360 --> 00:08:16,399 by that music and the musical instruments 128 00:08:16,400 --> 00:08:18,559 that were used thousands of years ago 129 00:08:18,560 --> 00:08:20,839 to compose his own music. 130 00:08:20,840 --> 00:08:22,919 And that's what you're listening to now. 131 00:08:22,920 --> 00:08:24,160 WOODWIND PLAYS 132 00:08:26,000 --> 00:08:30,839 A son of Ephesus, who grew up right by this enchanting city, 133 00:08:30,840 --> 00:08:33,440 inspired by the ancients before him. 134 00:08:47,000 --> 00:08:48,319 Next morning, 135 00:08:48,320 --> 00:08:50,679 it's time to hit the road again, 136 00:08:50,680 --> 00:08:54,280 heading due east to the magical region of Cappadocia. 137 00:09:03,000 --> 00:09:05,559 I want to find how the incredible landscape 138 00:09:05,560 --> 00:09:08,479 fostered connections between different cultures, 139 00:09:08,480 --> 00:09:10,640 even in extreme environments. 140 00:09:13,640 --> 00:09:15,999 This region's always been a borderland, 141 00:09:16,000 --> 00:09:19,759 and although this incredible, unique, 142 00:09:19,760 --> 00:09:22,199 beautiful, otherworldly landscape 143 00:09:22,200 --> 00:09:25,479 can seem a little austere... 144 00:09:25,480 --> 00:09:27,839 ...in fact, for centuries, 145 00:09:27,840 --> 00:09:31,640 it's provided people with refuge and abundance. 146 00:09:36,920 --> 00:09:40,000 Humans arrived here back in prehistoric times. 147 00:09:42,000 --> 00:09:44,679 For the last 3,000 years, 148 00:09:44,680 --> 00:09:49,159 locals have literally carved out an existence. 149 00:09:49,160 --> 00:09:51,599 Citadels high in the rock 150 00:09:51,600 --> 00:09:53,720 and subterranean cities. 151 00:09:55,600 --> 00:09:58,439 There's really fascinating recent research 152 00:09:58,440 --> 00:10:00,919 that suggests that the name Cappadocia 153 00:10:00,920 --> 00:10:03,999 actually comes from that really ancient Hittite language, 154 00:10:04,000 --> 00:10:06,519 and the word "Katapeda", 155 00:10:06,520 --> 00:10:09,159 which literally means, "the place below". 156 00:10:09,160 --> 00:10:10,839 Which makes total sense 157 00:10:10,840 --> 00:10:13,760 when you see there are just caves everywhere here. 158 00:10:15,840 --> 00:10:19,519 And my exploration is taking me underground 159 00:10:19,520 --> 00:10:23,440 to find buried secrets that lie hidden in these rocks. 160 00:10:35,600 --> 00:10:37,199 Throughout history, 161 00:10:37,200 --> 00:10:40,079 travellers have come to Cappadocia to take refuge 162 00:10:40,080 --> 00:10:42,999 from the temptations of the worldly realm, 163 00:10:43,000 --> 00:10:47,520 like hermits living isolated in their hermitages. 164 00:10:51,000 --> 00:10:54,519 Today, these amazing rock formations 165 00:10:54,520 --> 00:10:57,879 are often called fairy chimneys. 166 00:10:57,880 --> 00:10:59,519 And you can just imagine, can't you, 167 00:10:59,520 --> 00:11:03,999 how over the centuries, they gave a kind of mystical, 168 00:11:04,000 --> 00:11:08,560 spiritual inspiration to all those hermits and ascetics here. 169 00:11:13,520 --> 00:11:14,919 Hi. Hi. 170 00:11:14,920 --> 00:11:16,119 SHE SPEAKS TURKISH 171 00:11:16,120 --> 00:11:17,759 Is it OK to...? 172 00:11:17,760 --> 00:11:19,000 SHE SPEAKS TURKISH 173 00:11:20,880 --> 00:11:24,839 SHE SPEAKS TURKISH 174 00:11:24,840 --> 00:11:26,039 This rock, 175 00:11:26,040 --> 00:11:28,759 which sits in an ancient vineyard, 176 00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:30,479 hides a secret. 177 00:11:30,480 --> 00:11:32,639 Nicknamed, fittingly, 178 00:11:32,640 --> 00:11:34,480 the Grape Church. 179 00:11:37,960 --> 00:11:40,799 The colours here are just astonishing, aren't they? 180 00:11:40,800 --> 00:11:41,959 Look here. 181 00:11:41,960 --> 00:11:44,800 Those are the grapes up there on the top... 182 00:11:45,880 --> 00:11:48,080 ...as well as these kind of official figures. 183 00:11:50,920 --> 00:11:52,639 Because some of these are a bit time worn 184 00:11:52,640 --> 00:11:54,159 you've got to scan. 185 00:11:54,160 --> 00:11:56,040 It will make it much easier to read. 186 00:12:01,000 --> 00:12:04,000 {\an8}The scans reveal secrets of the Grape Church. 187 00:12:06,960 --> 00:12:08,960 Like these carvings. 188 00:12:10,400 --> 00:12:12,199 {\an8}It's very, very naughty, obviously, 189 00:12:12,200 --> 00:12:13,559 {\an8}because this is graffiti. 190 00:12:13,560 --> 00:12:16,799 But these little images and the names have been left 191 00:12:16,800 --> 00:12:20,360 by all the pilgrims who've come here over the centuries. 192 00:12:24,080 --> 00:12:27,559 {\an8}The carvings are a clue to the many generations of pilgrims 193 00:12:27,560 --> 00:12:29,999 {\an8}who came here to pay their respects 194 00:12:30,000 --> 00:12:33,000 {\an8}to one man who worshipped in this tiny church... 195 00:12:35,880 --> 00:12:38,399 ...Saint Niketas, 196 00:12:38,400 --> 00:12:42,680 who lived somewhere slightly unexpected. 197 00:12:45,480 --> 00:12:49,439 So, the church is carved out of this single rock. 198 00:12:49,440 --> 00:12:53,279 And Saint Niketas actually lived in a cell 199 00:12:53,280 --> 00:12:55,159 that was hollowed out right at the top there 200 00:12:55,160 --> 00:12:56,599 for all of his life. 201 00:12:56,600 --> 00:13:00,000 So he was one of the very first hermits in his hermitage. 202 00:13:01,600 --> 00:13:04,719 I noticed the outside steps have been badly eroded 203 00:13:04,720 --> 00:13:05,999 over the centuries, 204 00:13:06,000 --> 00:13:09,679 so now it's almost impossible to access. 205 00:13:09,680 --> 00:13:13,080 However, we have a drone team, and they are going to help us out. 206 00:13:15,560 --> 00:13:18,439 Our research drone has special permission 207 00:13:18,440 --> 00:13:22,480 to become the first visitor to the hermit's house in a very long time. 208 00:13:25,920 --> 00:13:27,079 Anyway you can tilt up? 209 00:13:27,080 --> 00:13:29,680 Because you see the cross on the roof. 210 00:13:34,680 --> 00:13:37,719 It was a transcendent but tough existence 211 00:13:37,720 --> 00:13:39,160 for the 10th century hermit. 212 00:13:42,000 --> 00:13:43,999 There's a light dusting of snow today, 213 00:13:44,000 --> 00:13:47,959 but it can get really cold here in the winter. 214 00:13:47,960 --> 00:13:49,959 Imagine living inside there. 215 00:13:49,960 --> 00:13:52,799 That shows endurance. SHE CHUCKLES 216 00:13:52,800 --> 00:13:56,879 And then my team and I spot a flash of evidence 217 00:13:56,880 --> 00:13:59,999 connecting us directly to Niketas. 218 00:14:00,000 --> 00:14:02,759 I think I saw a bit of painting. 219 00:14:02,760 --> 00:14:04,399 It's more of a drawing than a painting, 220 00:14:04,400 --> 00:14:06,359 but if you just pan left. 221 00:14:06,360 --> 00:14:08,000 Pan left. Pan left. 222 00:14:09,360 --> 00:14:11,920 You see it now? Oh, yeah. Yeah. There, there, there. 223 00:14:15,000 --> 00:14:17,679 The red drawing is mysterious. 224 00:14:17,680 --> 00:14:20,120 Maybe we're the first to witness it in centuries. 225 00:14:23,560 --> 00:14:26,239 Perhaps the remains of a religious symbol 226 00:14:26,240 --> 00:14:30,600 inspired by the spiritual experience of living on this rock. 227 00:14:39,240 --> 00:14:43,999 But it wasn't just lone monks in Cappadocia's unique landscape. 228 00:14:44,000 --> 00:14:48,679 I'm heading 30 miles south to the remote village of Gumusluk, 229 00:14:48,680 --> 00:14:53,520 where the ascetic life could have been a communal experience. 230 00:14:56,000 --> 00:14:59,919 In 1962, an even more impressive hidden gem 231 00:14:59,920 --> 00:15:03,600 was rediscovered deep in the bedrock. 232 00:15:05,960 --> 00:15:07,999 Originally built in the 10th century, 233 00:15:08,000 --> 00:15:12,200 this remarkable place has long been believed to be a monastery. 234 00:15:14,680 --> 00:15:17,599 It's honeycombed with caves, 235 00:15:17,600 --> 00:15:21,560 presumably cells for a whole congregation of monks. 236 00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:29,519 Incredibly, this square courtyard 237 00:15:29,520 --> 00:15:33,199 was carved 15m deep 238 00:15:33,200 --> 00:15:35,440 in a volcanic, rocky outcrop. 239 00:15:47,360 --> 00:15:50,919 Hidden inside the complex is a chapel, 240 00:15:50,920 --> 00:15:53,000 covered in sacred imagery. 241 00:15:55,520 --> 00:15:58,359 It's just astonishing, isn't it? 242 00:15:58,360 --> 00:16:02,559 This was all created sometime in the 11th century. 243 00:16:02,560 --> 00:16:05,320 So it's almost all 1,000 years old. 244 00:16:09,040 --> 00:16:11,359 Up until the 1960s, 245 00:16:11,360 --> 00:16:13,639 this was covered in soot black 246 00:16:13,640 --> 00:16:16,999 because of all the lamps that had been burnt here down the centuries. 247 00:16:17,000 --> 00:16:18,679 And bit by bit, 248 00:16:18,680 --> 00:16:21,080 these beautiful paintings are being restored. 249 00:16:24,000 --> 00:16:26,399 So you can see up at the top, that's Mary, 250 00:16:26,400 --> 00:16:29,439 the Virgin Mary in the middle. 251 00:16:29,440 --> 00:16:31,719 And then that's Saint Basil. 252 00:16:31,720 --> 00:16:35,759 And Saint Basil was really crucial in promoting the idea of monasticism 253 00:16:35,760 --> 00:16:38,320 as something that lots of people could do together. 254 00:16:40,000 --> 00:16:42,559 Many of these paintings are of locals 255 00:16:42,560 --> 00:16:47,959 who had a big impact on the wider medieval world... 256 00:16:47,960 --> 00:16:51,680 ...including one much beloved saint. 257 00:16:53,320 --> 00:16:56,319 I've just got to show you the man on my right, 258 00:16:56,320 --> 00:16:57,879 with this lovely red cloak, 259 00:16:57,880 --> 00:16:59,999 with a white trim and a long white beard. 260 00:17:00,000 --> 00:17:01,919 He's Saint Nicholas, 261 00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:06,000 who, of course, is also known as Santa Claus or Father Christmas. 262 00:17:10,880 --> 00:17:14,999 I discover the complex is covered in art. 263 00:17:15,000 --> 00:17:18,280 There's something really surprising up here. 264 00:17:20,600 --> 00:17:23,439 I've been told there's evidence that points 265 00:17:23,440 --> 00:17:28,000 to a very different interpretation of this rock cut building. 266 00:17:37,000 --> 00:17:39,319 This could change everything, 267 00:17:39,320 --> 00:17:42,559 because what you're looking at here aren't religious paintings. 268 00:17:42,560 --> 00:17:46,599 They're actually an illustration of Aesop's fables. 269 00:17:46,600 --> 00:17:49,079 Aesop was that very famous ancient author, 270 00:17:49,080 --> 00:17:51,879 who lived around 2,600 years ago, 271 00:17:51,880 --> 00:17:55,799 whose morality tales are still really popular today. 272 00:17:55,800 --> 00:18:00,839 So, for instance, you've got a lion who goes hunting with an ass. 273 00:18:00,840 --> 00:18:04,639 And the moral of that story is, never go hunting with a lion, 274 00:18:04,640 --> 00:18:08,599 because the lion will always get the lion's share. 275 00:18:08,600 --> 00:18:11,079 There's a goat up here just 276 00:18:11,080 --> 00:18:14,199 starting to nibble at vine leaves, 277 00:18:14,200 --> 00:18:16,919 grapes again, featuring, obviously. 278 00:18:16,920 --> 00:18:18,599 And the vine speaks and says, 279 00:18:18,600 --> 00:18:20,999 "I will get my revenge when you are sacrificed 280 00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:24,919 "and wine is drunk at the time that you are eaten!" 281 00:18:24,920 --> 00:18:27,159 And then just over here, it's very eroded, 282 00:18:27,160 --> 00:18:31,799 but it could be that it's telling the story of the fox and the grapes. 283 00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:36,399 So, a fox was reaching up to eat a lovely plump bunch of grapes 284 00:18:36,400 --> 00:18:38,719 and couldn't quite get it and goes, 285 00:18:38,720 --> 00:18:40,879 "I don't want to have those anyway." 286 00:18:40,880 --> 00:18:43,440 And that is where we get the phrase "sour grapes" from. 287 00:18:47,880 --> 00:18:50,999 I love the fact that grapes appear again. 288 00:18:51,000 --> 00:18:54,840 They seem to play such an important role in the Cappadocian imagination. 289 00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:57,799 What are they - 290 00:18:57,800 --> 00:19:00,599 and these secular story frescoes - 291 00:19:00,600 --> 00:19:03,000 doing here in a monastery? 292 00:19:04,760 --> 00:19:09,320 Some have begun to wonder if this may not be a home for monks at all. 293 00:19:13,000 --> 00:19:17,559 So there's a chance that this is actually one massive, 294 00:19:17,560 --> 00:19:19,639 wealthy merchant's house, 295 00:19:19,640 --> 00:19:22,599 and he stood here at his balcony checking out on his business 296 00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:23,800 going on down below. 297 00:19:25,200 --> 00:19:27,519 Archaeology often teaches us 298 00:19:27,520 --> 00:19:30,999 that the most obvious conclusion may not be right. 299 00:19:31,000 --> 00:19:35,080 A little more digging can reveal a whole new story. 300 00:19:48,520 --> 00:19:50,799 To fully immerse in Cappadocia, 301 00:19:50,800 --> 00:19:53,359 I'm staying in a cave myself, 302 00:19:53,360 --> 00:19:56,000 but this one, a charming hotel. 303 00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:02,919 Meeting up with local friends to explore 304 00:20:02,920 --> 00:20:06,119 how this region has evolved hand in hand with nature 305 00:20:06,120 --> 00:20:09,239 and impacted the wider world. 306 00:20:09,240 --> 00:20:10,400 Lovely. 307 00:20:12,920 --> 00:20:15,000 That is a welcoming. That is really delicious. 308 00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:18,679 Cos they've been producing and 309 00:20:18,680 --> 00:20:20,999 trading wine from here for centuries. 310 00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:23,959 Probably more than 3,000 years. 311 00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:26,399 {\an8}Even our word, "wine", 312 00:20:26,400 --> 00:20:28,999 {\an8}can be traced back to "wiyana", 313 00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:32,999 {\an8}a word used by the Bronze Age rulers of Anatolia, the Hittites. 314 00:20:33,000 --> 00:20:35,199 They record wine in their tablets, 315 00:20:35,200 --> 00:20:36,799 and there are lovely pictures of them, 316 00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:39,679 of the kings and the queens drinking wine, aren't there? 317 00:20:39,680 --> 00:20:41,919 Common saying among locals is that 318 00:20:41,920 --> 00:20:46,599 the harder that the vine roots try to reach for water 319 00:20:46,600 --> 00:20:49,239 under the poorest volcanic soil, 320 00:20:49,240 --> 00:20:51,039 the tastier the grapes get. 321 00:20:51,040 --> 00:20:52,479 Ah-ha! 322 00:20:52,480 --> 00:20:56,359 We have the grape, which doesn't require that much water, 323 00:20:56,360 --> 00:21:01,319 and we have people who don't really need more than what they have. 324 00:21:01,320 --> 00:21:03,679 That's a lesson we've got to remember. 325 00:21:03,680 --> 00:21:07,599 Jan here told me that I'd like you and your place. 326 00:21:07,600 --> 00:21:10,600 It's so beautiful. Thank you. Thank you. 327 00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:20,999 It's time to leave Cappadocia 328 00:21:21,000 --> 00:21:25,000 and travel 500 miles across this vast country. 329 00:21:28,880 --> 00:21:32,519 Now we're heading out to the very eastern edge of Anatolia, 330 00:21:32,520 --> 00:21:35,999 right across the country, to Kars province, 331 00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:39,000 which has some astonishing revelations. 332 00:21:44,560 --> 00:21:47,439 Here, geography has shaped history, 333 00:21:47,440 --> 00:21:51,600 where the mountains of the Caucasus meet the high plateau of Anatolia. 334 00:21:54,000 --> 00:21:58,480 In winter, the temperature can plunge to -40. 335 00:22:00,400 --> 00:22:05,519 Lake Cildir sits almost 2,000m above sea level. 336 00:22:05,520 --> 00:22:08,720 One of the great high altitude lakes of Anatolia. 337 00:22:13,000 --> 00:22:17,039 This lake's completely frozen in the winter, 338 00:22:17,040 --> 00:22:19,999 and these guys are going to help me get across it. 339 00:22:20,000 --> 00:22:22,960 It's the safest and fastest way. 340 00:22:24,440 --> 00:22:27,679 Its local people, and their treasured horses, 341 00:22:27,680 --> 00:22:30,760 have thrived for centuries on the icy shores of Cildir... 342 00:22:32,560 --> 00:22:36,000 ...making a living helping traders and travellers cross each year. 343 00:22:38,680 --> 00:22:40,999 I've never been on a frozen lake before. 344 00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:43,319 It's so exciting to do it with these guys, 345 00:22:43,320 --> 00:22:44,679 with their horses, 346 00:22:44,680 --> 00:22:48,079 cos this is how it's been happening for not just centuries, 347 00:22:48,080 --> 00:22:49,520 but thousands of years here. 348 00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:54,799 It's thrilling to find they're still at it, 349 00:22:54,800 --> 00:22:56,760 running visitors to the far shore. 350 00:23:00,000 --> 00:23:01,719 SHE SPEAKS TURKISH 351 00:23:01,720 --> 00:23:04,679 I'm Bettany. Bettany. How are you? My name is Barratt. Barratt! 352 00:23:04,680 --> 00:23:07,239 Lovely to meet you. What's the name of your horse? 353 00:23:07,240 --> 00:23:08,959 Niko. Niko. Beautiful. 354 00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:10,279 Is it OK to get in? 355 00:23:10,280 --> 00:23:12,679 OK. OK. 356 00:23:12,680 --> 00:23:14,999 For me? Yes. 357 00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:17,039 He's right as well. 358 00:23:17,040 --> 00:23:20,079 Beautiful. Not warm today. 359 00:23:20,080 --> 00:23:21,239 OK. 360 00:23:21,240 --> 00:23:22,519 SHE SPEAKS TURKISH 361 00:23:22,520 --> 00:23:24,280 OK, here? Thank you. 362 00:23:40,760 --> 00:23:43,559 Horses have always been a part of Anatolian culture, 363 00:23:43,560 --> 00:23:47,479 and Turkic tribes came here by horse from the steppes, 364 00:23:47,480 --> 00:23:50,999 and then used the horses to trade goods, and actually, to sell them. 365 00:23:51,000 --> 00:23:55,000 Using them both as transport and as highly prized trade goods... 366 00:23:56,440 --> 00:23:58,479 ...they've been long loved. 367 00:23:58,480 --> 00:24:01,519 Travellers from Central Asia were some of the very first 368 00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:06,680 to domesticate the ancestors of all modern horses in around 2000 BCE. 369 00:24:08,000 --> 00:24:10,519 They believed these glorious creatures 370 00:24:10,520 --> 00:24:13,159 were descended from the sky. 371 00:24:13,160 --> 00:24:15,479 They could be buried with the highest honours, 372 00:24:15,480 --> 00:24:17,720 sometimes alongside their owners. 373 00:24:23,360 --> 00:24:26,720 Lake Cildir is about 12 miles at its widest... 374 00:24:28,000 --> 00:24:30,999 ...a chilling 42m deep, 375 00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:34,360 and in winter, the ice is half a metre thick. 376 00:24:36,120 --> 00:24:39,399 When it's frozen, it takes a quarter of the time to cross 377 00:24:39,400 --> 00:24:40,720 than it does in the summer. 378 00:24:42,000 --> 00:24:44,799 A vital passage for the technology, 379 00:24:44,800 --> 00:24:47,399 knowledge, raw materials and luxuries 380 00:24:47,400 --> 00:24:50,559 transported on the Silk Roads. 381 00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:52,839 People have been trading across here 382 00:24:52,840 --> 00:24:55,119 for at least 1,000 years, 383 00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:57,919 just like this. 384 00:24:57,920 --> 00:24:59,199 And you know what? 385 00:24:59,200 --> 00:25:02,720 Travelling in conditions like this gives me massive respect for them. 386 00:25:06,800 --> 00:25:11,119 My destination is a very special city on those ancient silk roads. 387 00:25:11,120 --> 00:25:14,160 A place packed with hidden secrets. 388 00:25:24,480 --> 00:25:27,599 About 50 miles south of Lake Cildir, 389 00:25:27,600 --> 00:25:32,439 on a volcanic plateau is the beautiful, 390 00:25:32,440 --> 00:25:38,880 desolate city of Ani, a rich tapestry of cultures. 391 00:25:43,320 --> 00:25:46,559 It's just incredible to think of all the people 392 00:25:46,560 --> 00:25:48,559 who've been here since prehistory. 393 00:25:48,560 --> 00:25:52,799 So, Alexander the Great's soldiers came here, 394 00:25:52,800 --> 00:25:56,840 and invaders from the Far East, including the Mongols. 395 00:25:58,840 --> 00:26:02,959 This ancient city, first mentioned in the fifth century, 396 00:26:02,960 --> 00:26:06,999 flowered under the Bagratuni Kingdom of Armenia. 397 00:26:07,000 --> 00:26:09,039 150 years later, 398 00:26:09,040 --> 00:26:13,799 an influx of new people would change the course of Anatolian history. 399 00:26:13,800 --> 00:26:17,479 The Seljuks, the first Turkic populations 400 00:26:17,480 --> 00:26:20,359 to arrive here from Central Asia. 401 00:26:20,360 --> 00:26:23,839 They brought their art and culture. 402 00:26:23,840 --> 00:26:25,279 At its height, 403 00:26:25,280 --> 00:26:29,599 there could have been as many as 100,000 people in this city. 404 00:26:29,600 --> 00:26:33,639 And where I'm walking right now is just one of the many bazaars. 405 00:26:33,640 --> 00:26:36,319 This is the Seljuk Bazaar. 406 00:26:36,320 --> 00:26:41,279 Isn't it a buzz imagining them coming here on their camels, 407 00:26:41,280 --> 00:26:45,199 bringing goods from all points of the compass, 408 00:26:45,200 --> 00:26:48,560 trading beautiful things and beautiful ideas? 409 00:26:52,800 --> 00:26:54,599 A thousand years ago, 410 00:26:54,600 --> 00:26:59,440 Ani had a privileged position on the world's trading superhighway. 411 00:27:00,840 --> 00:27:02,879 We're in Anatolia now. 412 00:27:02,880 --> 00:27:08,560 This is where the Caucasus and Central Asia met Anatolia. 413 00:27:11,680 --> 00:27:15,039 Ancient trade in silk from China and ceramics 414 00:27:15,040 --> 00:27:18,999 and gemstones from Central Asia pass through here 415 00:27:19,000 --> 00:27:22,759 bound for the markets of Persia and the Mediterranean. 416 00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:26,639 Because of that, this was one of the richest cities at the time. 417 00:27:26,640 --> 00:27:30,079 And it's this ghost town now, but it's seen so much history, 418 00:27:30,080 --> 00:27:33,239 so much wealth and so much interchange 419 00:27:33,240 --> 00:27:36,199 of people and ideas. 420 00:27:36,200 --> 00:27:37,999 So it's lovely coming here 421 00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:40,920 and listening to the voices of the past talking to us here. 422 00:27:47,320 --> 00:27:51,519 The merchants of Ani grew rich from the Silk Roads trade, 423 00:27:51,520 --> 00:27:54,600 and the evidence still litters the landscape. 424 00:28:00,440 --> 00:28:07,519 You can just imagine the wealth that originally built this place. 425 00:28:07,520 --> 00:28:10,880 It would have been like a jewel box of colours. 426 00:28:12,520 --> 00:28:16,839 Tigran Honents was a 13th century Georgian merchant 427 00:28:16,840 --> 00:28:21,160 who spent part of his fortune on this incredible building. 428 00:28:23,440 --> 00:28:25,919 And I love the fact that the man who's given his name 429 00:28:25,920 --> 00:28:29,239 to this is actually here. He's in the church up at the top. 430 00:28:29,240 --> 00:28:32,359 He's giving a little miniature of the building 431 00:28:32,360 --> 00:28:34,240 that he sponsored to the bishop. 432 00:28:38,200 --> 00:28:39,799 Nobody lives here now, 433 00:28:39,800 --> 00:28:43,199 but you've got all these people who had these flourishing lives 434 00:28:43,200 --> 00:28:46,479 and were incredibly proud of what they've achieved. 435 00:28:46,480 --> 00:28:49,519 I love it when they leave us these little clues to their lives, 436 00:28:49,520 --> 00:28:52,920 like dropping breadcrumbs from the past for us to follow. 437 00:28:55,600 --> 00:29:00,159 There's not just churches in Ani, but many mosques. 438 00:29:00,160 --> 00:29:03,079 Even the remains of a Zoroastrian fire temple 439 00:29:03,080 --> 00:29:05,399 have recently been found. 440 00:29:05,400 --> 00:29:07,759 At its very best, this was a place 441 00:29:07,760 --> 00:29:11,320 where cultures came together and collaborated. 442 00:29:12,880 --> 00:29:15,079 Traders and travellers. 443 00:29:15,080 --> 00:29:16,839 Art and architecture. 444 00:29:16,840 --> 00:29:20,480 Literature and ideas met and mingled here. 445 00:29:22,080 --> 00:29:24,760 Ani thrived despite many challenges. 446 00:29:26,600 --> 00:29:30,079 This exposed plateau of ancient pumice and ash 447 00:29:30,080 --> 00:29:33,239 offered little respite from baking summers, 448 00:29:33,240 --> 00:29:36,439 freezing winters and invading armies. 449 00:29:36,440 --> 00:29:40,599 But one local is keen to show me secrets of the site... 450 00:29:40,600 --> 00:29:42,359 Hello! 451 00:29:42,360 --> 00:29:47,559 ...revealing ways the people here survived over the centuries. 452 00:29:47,560 --> 00:29:49,999 Thank you. 453 00:29:50,000 --> 00:29:52,319 It's OK. Yes. Yeah, I'd love it. I'll follow you. 454 00:29:52,320 --> 00:29:54,920 I'll follow you. You know the way. Yes, yes. 455 00:29:57,720 --> 00:30:01,239 I've just been told to hari, hari, go, go, 456 00:30:01,240 --> 00:30:04,119 with my new friend, Kinan, who's taking us 457 00:30:04,120 --> 00:30:06,640 to some new archaeological discoveries. 458 00:30:09,760 --> 00:30:14,039 Oh, it's so unspoilt here. So stunning. 459 00:30:14,040 --> 00:30:18,439 And then a reminder that he's not the only one who knows these wilds. 460 00:30:18,440 --> 00:30:20,880 What are these tracks here? Big tracks. 461 00:30:22,640 --> 00:30:29,719 A wolf? Big wolf? Oh, yes. Yes, yes, yes. 462 00:30:29,720 --> 00:30:33,719 Delighted I'm with someone who's been living here all his life. 463 00:30:33,720 --> 00:30:35,120 That's cool though, wolf. 464 00:30:39,160 --> 00:30:43,200 Eventually we see signs of what Kinan wants to show me. 465 00:30:45,040 --> 00:30:48,519 These ones with the little holes? Pigeons? 466 00:30:48,520 --> 00:30:52,079 You keep on seeing these little kind of rock dovecots. 467 00:30:52,080 --> 00:30:53,640 Well, I think they kept pigeons. 468 00:30:55,400 --> 00:30:58,759 Kinan was actually born in one of these caves. 469 00:30:58,760 --> 00:31:02,199 His family lived here for over 500 years 470 00:31:02,200 --> 00:31:04,520 until as recently as 1957. 471 00:31:06,880 --> 00:31:09,559 Sharing the knowledge of secret locations 472 00:31:09,560 --> 00:31:11,360 one generation to another. 473 00:31:12,800 --> 00:31:14,919 He even shows me the tomb 474 00:31:14,920 --> 00:31:17,600 of our church building friend, Tigran Honents. 475 00:31:20,360 --> 00:31:25,559 But the place Kinan's most excited about is something unexpected. 476 00:31:25,560 --> 00:31:28,280 I've never seen anything quite like it. 477 00:31:42,000 --> 00:31:44,920 Aha! So there were camels in there? 478 00:31:51,520 --> 00:31:53,800 You can see all these caves there. 479 00:32:03,680 --> 00:32:05,719 So what you've got up there 480 00:32:05,720 --> 00:32:08,559 is places where the merchants would come and stay. 481 00:32:08,560 --> 00:32:10,719 They'd bring their huge, huge, huge camel trains 482 00:32:10,720 --> 00:32:13,039 with all their goods, all their merchandise, 483 00:32:13,040 --> 00:32:15,999 and the camels would be kept in the middle in the courtyard, 484 00:32:16,000 --> 00:32:18,959 and the merchants would sleep on top. 485 00:32:18,960 --> 00:32:20,280 So awesome! 486 00:32:25,440 --> 00:32:28,879 So below the monumental city of Ani 487 00:32:28,880 --> 00:32:33,559 is a whole other huge metropolis deep underground, 488 00:32:33,560 --> 00:32:36,799 a shadow city where the people of Ani 489 00:32:36,800 --> 00:32:41,200 and visiting merchants and their animals could take refuge. 490 00:32:42,920 --> 00:32:45,559 Because it's all volcanic around here, 491 00:32:45,560 --> 00:32:47,839 you've got this pumice falling away. 492 00:32:47,840 --> 00:32:50,959 So that's why we keep on finding these new, 493 00:32:50,960 --> 00:32:53,839 astonishing archaeological discoveries. 494 00:32:53,840 --> 00:32:56,520 They're literally revealing themselves in the rock. 495 00:33:02,400 --> 00:33:04,879 The ruins at Ani, 496 00:33:04,880 --> 00:33:09,759 once the richest city in the region, speak to its turbulent history. 497 00:33:09,760 --> 00:33:13,199 Devastated by a Mongol invasion in 1236, 498 00:33:13,200 --> 00:33:16,719 rocked by a series of earthquakes. 499 00:33:16,720 --> 00:33:21,479 But despite the challenges, it remained a beacon of the value 500 00:33:21,480 --> 00:33:25,999 of cultural coexistence right up until the 18th century. 501 00:33:26,000 --> 00:33:28,199 Now a ghost town 502 00:33:28,200 --> 00:33:32,160 that holds rich clues to the lost worlds of the past. 503 00:33:39,720 --> 00:33:43,560 I'm on the move again, leaving the wonders of Ani behind. 504 00:33:45,680 --> 00:33:47,759 Following the Silk Road trail, 505 00:33:47,760 --> 00:33:51,480 in the footsteps of generations of merchants. 506 00:33:55,320 --> 00:33:59,599 And a chance to take one of the most stunning train journeys 507 00:33:59,600 --> 00:34:00,880 in the world. 508 00:34:05,600 --> 00:34:07,400 It's just so beautiful. 509 00:34:13,840 --> 00:34:18,760 The Dogu Express takes me across the epic snowy steppe. 510 00:34:22,480 --> 00:34:25,239 This journey's really making me imagine all those travellers 511 00:34:25,240 --> 00:34:29,639 and traders who did this exact route thousands of years ago 512 00:34:29,640 --> 00:34:33,240 on the ancient silk roads, on horseback and camel. 513 00:34:35,920 --> 00:34:39,599 It passes through some of the most historic towns, 514 00:34:39,600 --> 00:34:42,360 cities and landscapes of central Anatolia. 515 00:34:47,360 --> 00:34:49,279 Eight hours into our journey 516 00:34:49,280 --> 00:34:53,959 and we enter Sivas province in central eastern Turkiye, 517 00:34:53,960 --> 00:34:57,519 famous for its high sided cliffs and deep valleys. 518 00:34:57,520 --> 00:35:02,359 Bearing witness to the magnificence of the Seljuk Turks. 519 00:35:02,360 --> 00:35:05,880 What a way to explore the rich past of this amazing land. 520 00:35:08,440 --> 00:35:11,079 The other thing I love about long rail journeys 521 00:35:11,080 --> 00:35:13,759 is making friends with fellow passengers 522 00:35:13,760 --> 00:35:15,200 and rail staff. 523 00:35:16,480 --> 00:35:18,999 The most beautiful thing has just happened. 524 00:35:19,000 --> 00:35:22,119 I was sitting here and talking about how I love Turkish cheese 525 00:35:22,120 --> 00:35:23,799 and Turkish honey, 526 00:35:23,800 --> 00:35:26,519 and the guards heard and they've ordered ahead. 527 00:35:26,520 --> 00:35:28,999 Is this it? 528 00:35:29,000 --> 00:35:31,440 That is beautiful. 529 00:35:34,240 --> 00:35:36,239 That is service. 530 00:35:36,240 --> 00:35:40,359 So they've just brought this in from one of the local stations. 531 00:35:40,360 --> 00:35:42,999 Honey's called bal in Turkish. 532 00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:45,559 And if somebody's bali, it means that they're lucky. 533 00:35:45,560 --> 00:35:48,039 They're kind of literally with honey. 534 00:35:48,040 --> 00:35:51,159 So it's a really beautiful gift to give. 535 00:35:51,160 --> 00:35:54,640 Isn't that amazing hospitality on this extraordinary journey? 536 00:35:59,920 --> 00:36:03,319 There's nothing quite like the spontaneous sense of community 537 00:36:03,320 --> 00:36:04,640 as the miles roll by. 538 00:36:07,480 --> 00:36:10,440 Even a surprise boogie in the buffet. 539 00:36:23,840 --> 00:36:26,679 Nestled in the mountains of Sivas province 540 00:36:26,680 --> 00:36:30,679 is the historic town of Divrigi. 541 00:36:30,680 --> 00:36:34,759 The remains of a 13th century castle dominate the skyline, 542 00:36:34,760 --> 00:36:40,519 overlooked by a craggy ridge packed with hidden caves. 543 00:36:40,520 --> 00:36:43,159 This area is known for iron ore deposits, 544 00:36:43,160 --> 00:36:45,079 first mined by the Hittites, 545 00:36:45,080 --> 00:36:49,080 who ruled a mighty Anatolian empire over three millennia ago. 546 00:36:54,320 --> 00:36:57,959 Hello, beauty. Hello, beautiful. 547 00:36:57,960 --> 00:36:59,519 You're lovely! 548 00:36:59,520 --> 00:37:02,999 Round here, there's this special breed of dog called Kangal, 549 00:37:03,000 --> 00:37:05,119 named after the village they come from. 550 00:37:05,120 --> 00:37:08,359 Oh, is that nice? Is that nice, lady? 551 00:37:08,360 --> 00:37:11,919 Adult Kangals can reach well over 60kg. 552 00:37:11,920 --> 00:37:15,999 They're bred to protect flocks from wolves and can be scary, 553 00:37:16,000 --> 00:37:19,119 but this girl is super friendly. 554 00:37:19,120 --> 00:37:21,479 Kangals have actually become incredibly popular 555 00:37:21,480 --> 00:37:24,399 all around the world now, but this is where they come from. 556 00:37:24,400 --> 00:37:26,759 Yeah, darling. 557 00:37:26,760 --> 00:37:29,319 My new young friend is most likely a mixed breed. 558 00:37:29,320 --> 00:37:32,960 Thankfully a more manageable size than a full Kangal. 559 00:37:35,560 --> 00:37:38,280 At the town's heart is the Great Mosque. 560 00:37:40,920 --> 00:37:43,759 The first building in Turkiye to attain 561 00:37:43,760 --> 00:37:47,160 Unesco World Heritage status in 1985. 562 00:37:48,800 --> 00:37:52,159 Built back in the 13th century to celebrate 563 00:37:52,160 --> 00:37:55,879 the pivotal Seljuk victory at the Battle of Manzikert 564 00:37:55,880 --> 00:37:57,839 150 years before, 565 00:37:57,840 --> 00:38:00,720 securing their presence in Anatolia. 566 00:38:02,240 --> 00:38:05,759 Constructed from local sandstone, tinged pink 567 00:38:05,760 --> 00:38:08,199 by traces of iron ore, 568 00:38:08,200 --> 00:38:13,119 its four monumental doorways covered in exquisite carvings, 569 00:38:13,120 --> 00:38:16,559 incredibly featuring no repeating motifs 570 00:38:16,560 --> 00:38:18,799 or direct symmetry. 571 00:38:18,800 --> 00:38:21,319 One of the guardians of the mosque has invited me 572 00:38:21,320 --> 00:38:22,480 to take a look around. 573 00:38:24,640 --> 00:38:29,039 Mustafa. Mustafa Bey. Bettany. Thank you. 574 00:38:29,040 --> 00:38:31,400 It's so beautiful in here. 575 00:38:34,920 --> 00:38:37,439 The interior is adorned with this stunning, 576 00:38:37,440 --> 00:38:39,799 delicately carved stone, mihrab, 577 00:38:39,800 --> 00:38:41,600 indicating the direction of Mecca. 578 00:38:46,640 --> 00:38:50,240 And the dome, decorated with vibrant red paint. 579 00:38:53,800 --> 00:38:55,999 From the mountains all around here. 580 00:38:56,000 --> 00:38:59,199 This is a unique architectural achievement, 581 00:38:59,200 --> 00:39:03,479 considered by some, the greatest masterpiece of Seljuk art, 582 00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:06,279 a synthesis of styles from across Asia 583 00:39:06,280 --> 00:39:10,200 that would go on to influence later Islamic and Ottoman culture. 584 00:39:14,600 --> 00:39:17,799 The Great Mosque of Divrigi is spectacular, 585 00:39:17,800 --> 00:39:21,479 and I'm so glad of the chance finally to visit. 586 00:39:21,480 --> 00:39:24,719 But there's more than meets the eye. 587 00:39:24,720 --> 00:39:27,639 I must admit, there's a secret reason 588 00:39:27,640 --> 00:39:29,959 that I wanted to come here. 589 00:39:29,960 --> 00:39:34,199 It's a hidden gem, and the clue to the story 590 00:39:34,200 --> 00:39:37,479 is up there in this writing, this inscription. 591 00:39:37,480 --> 00:39:39,999 It tells us that this was built 592 00:39:40,000 --> 00:39:46,519 as a house of healing by a woman called Turan Malik. 593 00:39:46,520 --> 00:39:50,360 And what's inside here is really, really, really special. 594 00:40:03,600 --> 00:40:06,439 I'm exploring a medieval jewel 595 00:40:06,440 --> 00:40:08,960 nestled in the mountains of central Anatolia. 596 00:40:22,000 --> 00:40:25,279 I'm listening to this music because this is a hospital 597 00:40:25,280 --> 00:40:29,439 from the 13th century that records reveal treated both physical 598 00:40:29,440 --> 00:40:32,760 and mental illness with music therapy. 599 00:40:39,200 --> 00:40:41,959 That was so beautiful. Thank you. 600 00:40:41,960 --> 00:40:45,639 That was so beautiful. Amazing. 601 00:40:45,640 --> 00:40:48,119 It's transported me. 602 00:40:48,120 --> 00:40:51,239 It's absolutely spiritual and haunting 603 00:40:51,240 --> 00:40:54,159 and I've never heard anything like that before. 604 00:40:54,160 --> 00:40:56,280 It's just extraordinary. 605 00:40:59,720 --> 00:41:04,439 The reason that was so exquisitely beautiful 606 00:41:04,440 --> 00:41:06,479 is because where I'm standing 607 00:41:06,480 --> 00:41:11,799 is basically a massive acoustic sound stage, 608 00:41:11,800 --> 00:41:14,719 brilliantly engineered, so that the bass 609 00:41:14,720 --> 00:41:18,799 and the treble are modulated and kind of bounce off one another. 610 00:41:18,800 --> 00:41:21,159 The asymmetric carved patterns 611 00:41:21,160 --> 00:41:24,359 on the vaulted ceiling reflect different 612 00:41:24,360 --> 00:41:27,399 sound frequencies at different rates, 613 00:41:27,400 --> 00:41:31,240 creating these incredible reverberations. 614 00:41:37,200 --> 00:41:40,919 Turan Malik was one of a number of leading women 615 00:41:40,920 --> 00:41:44,919 who founded astounding homes of healing like this, 616 00:41:44,920 --> 00:41:47,719 where each room had a different acoustic 617 00:41:47,720 --> 00:41:51,119 depending on the needs of your condition. 618 00:41:51,120 --> 00:41:53,959 The idea was that the music, the singing, 619 00:41:53,960 --> 00:41:57,519 and the sound from a fountain that ran through the middle 620 00:41:57,520 --> 00:42:00,519 of the building would heal people in different ways. 621 00:42:00,520 --> 00:42:03,399 And that is just so brilliantly progressive, 622 00:42:03,400 --> 00:42:06,599 because it's only now that we're realising 623 00:42:06,600 --> 00:42:09,159 that art does heal us, 624 00:42:09,160 --> 00:42:11,920 that harmony physically helps us. 625 00:42:14,560 --> 00:42:19,080 And that was happening here 800 years ago. 626 00:42:25,560 --> 00:42:28,919 It's amazing to find such a priceless treasure 627 00:42:28,920 --> 00:42:30,719 hidden in these hills. 628 00:42:30,720 --> 00:42:32,160 I'll be sad to leave it. 629 00:42:39,360 --> 00:42:42,319 I'm taking with me the sense that these wonders, 630 00:42:42,320 --> 00:42:44,359 far from being on the fringes, 631 00:42:44,360 --> 00:42:47,680 pulse with the lifeblood of our shared heritage. 632 00:42:51,280 --> 00:42:54,719 It's been the most incredible journey so far, 633 00:42:54,720 --> 00:42:57,919 but now it's time for me to leave central 634 00:42:57,920 --> 00:43:01,479 and eastern Anatolia and head all the way west 635 00:43:01,480 --> 00:43:04,799 here to Istanbul, to the city that was once 636 00:43:04,800 --> 00:43:07,960 the imperial capital of the Ottoman Empire. 637 00:43:15,520 --> 00:43:17,879 It seems I've brought the snow with me. 638 00:43:17,880 --> 00:43:20,040 A rare sight in this part of Turkey. 639 00:43:22,160 --> 00:43:23,759 Istanbul became the capital of 640 00:43:23,760 --> 00:43:26,320 the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. 641 00:43:28,360 --> 00:43:30,199 At the heart of the city, 642 00:43:30,200 --> 00:43:33,840 geographically and psychologically, are the waterways. 643 00:43:35,920 --> 00:43:38,839 One ancient author described the city 644 00:43:38,840 --> 00:43:41,199 as being garlanded by waters, 645 00:43:41,200 --> 00:43:44,719 and the very best way #to discover its historic secrets 646 00:43:44,720 --> 00:43:47,439 is to travel by boat. 647 00:43:47,440 --> 00:43:50,279 Around 50% of these buildings 648 00:43:50,280 --> 00:43:54,479 were actually funded by Ottoman women, 649 00:43:54,480 --> 00:43:57,079 and like the House of Healing in Divrigi, 650 00:43:57,080 --> 00:44:00,599 many were focused on serving the public good, 651 00:44:00,600 --> 00:44:03,680 mosques, baths, schools and hospitals. 652 00:44:06,080 --> 00:44:07,719 Throughout history, 653 00:44:07,720 --> 00:44:11,159 the Bosphorus has been one of the world's busiest waterways, 654 00:44:11,160 --> 00:44:14,399 ferries crisscrossing between Asia and Europe, 655 00:44:14,400 --> 00:44:18,359 and commercial shipping coming and going between the Black Sea, 656 00:44:18,360 --> 00:44:19,920 the Mediterranean and beyond. 657 00:44:23,280 --> 00:44:25,359 The waterfront of the Bosphorus is home to 658 00:44:25,360 --> 00:44:29,039 some of the prime real estate in Istanbul, 659 00:44:29,040 --> 00:44:31,199 and I'm lucky enough to get access to 660 00:44:31,200 --> 00:44:34,600 one of the greatest imperial palaces of Istanbul. 661 00:44:37,800 --> 00:44:43,360 Ciragan Palace was built in the 1860s for the Ottoman Sultan Abdulaziz, 662 00:44:44,600 --> 00:44:47,679 serving as a waterside royal residence 663 00:44:47,680 --> 00:44:49,600 into the early 20th century. 664 00:44:51,960 --> 00:44:55,199 It was transformed in 1991 into a historic 665 00:44:55,200 --> 00:44:59,639 hotel with unforgettable views of 666 00:44:59,640 --> 00:45:03,600 the Bosphorus, which once inspired a famous author. 667 00:45:06,240 --> 00:45:07,839 I love the fact that Byron talked about it 668 00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:12,159 as being a thwarted kiss between two continents. 669 00:45:12,160 --> 00:45:15,559 Because I'm here in Europe and over there is Asia, 670 00:45:15,560 --> 00:45:18,600 and the only thing that connects us is this gorgeous, gorgeous waterway. 671 00:45:22,120 --> 00:45:25,079 From these grand palaces of the Bosphorus, 672 00:45:25,080 --> 00:45:26,679 the Ottoman elite administered their 673 00:45:26,680 --> 00:45:31,200 vast imperial territories in comfort and splendour. 674 00:45:33,240 --> 00:45:36,480 But pleasure wasn't the preserve of the elite. 675 00:45:41,600 --> 00:45:44,399 There's a lovely concept of Kaif, 676 00:45:44,400 --> 00:45:50,280 which means savouring life slowly, whatever the weather. 677 00:45:53,000 --> 00:45:56,639 Perfect for a warming cup of the local favourite... 678 00:45:56,640 --> 00:46:00,600 Thank you. ..hot, sweet salep. 679 00:46:10,000 --> 00:46:15,039 What an astonishing voyage of discovery this has been. 680 00:46:15,040 --> 00:46:18,239 And I think that's because this beautiful place 681 00:46:18,240 --> 00:46:21,439 doesn't just offer us a gateway through time. 682 00:46:21,440 --> 00:46:26,360 It directly connects the past to our present. 683 00:46:50,040 --> 00:46:54,000 {\an8}Subtitles by Red Bee Media 55160

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