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00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:10,439
I'm in Anatolia
2
00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:13,439
exploring the stories and histories
3
00:00:13,440 --> 00:00:15,320
of this otherworldly place.
4
00:00:16,800 --> 00:00:19,439
The first seasonal snows
have just arrived,
5
00:00:19,440 --> 00:00:22,479
so I pull off the road to warm up -
6
00:00:22,480 --> 00:00:24,319
Turkish style.
7
00:00:24,320 --> 00:00:26,999
One of the things
I love so much about travelling
8
00:00:27,000 --> 00:00:30,439
is being introduced to local treats.
9
00:00:30,440 --> 00:00:34,439
And in this region, in the winter,
they drink something called salep.
10
00:00:34,440 --> 00:00:36,039
Oh, I wish you could smell it.
11
00:00:36,040 --> 00:00:37,319
It's so good.
12
00:00:37,320 --> 00:00:42,119
So, this is made of
powdered orchid roots
13
00:00:42,120 --> 00:00:45,919
and hot milk,
and sugar and cinnamon.
14
00:00:45,920 --> 00:00:47,639
Mm.
15
00:00:47,640 --> 00:00:50,999
Oh, and it was meant to be
good for all kinds of things.
16
00:00:51,000 --> 00:00:53,359
People said it was
really good for your digestion,
17
00:00:53,360 --> 00:00:54,999
and boosted your immune system,
18
00:00:55,000 --> 00:00:57,519
and gave you a spring in your step.
19
00:00:57,520 --> 00:01:00,639
And it's certainly making
me really, really happy.
20
00:01:00,640 --> 00:01:02,879
I mean, look...
21
00:01:02,880 --> 00:01:05,920
I can't actually imagine
anything more beautiful than this.
22
00:01:08,000 --> 00:01:11,759
A landscape full of
clues to how our lives
23
00:01:11,760 --> 00:01:16,000
were shaped from the ideas
of antiquity and the medieval world.
24
00:01:21,000 --> 00:01:22,280
Across the globe...
25
00:01:23,440 --> 00:01:26,000
...archaeologists
are uncovering secrets...
26
00:01:27,040 --> 00:01:29,839
It's remarkable!
27
00:01:29,840 --> 00:01:32,239
...in the most stunning places...
28
00:01:32,240 --> 00:01:36,079
We have a very,
very lively history here.
29
00:01:36,080 --> 00:01:39,879
...revealing fascinating connections
between past and present.
30
00:01:39,880 --> 00:01:41,679
So these are fresh out of the earth?
31
00:01:41,680 --> 00:01:43,999
Yeah, they are fresh
out of the earth.
32
00:01:44,000 --> 00:01:48,599
I'm crossing between continents
and travelling through time
33
00:01:48,600 --> 00:01:54,599
on an epic adventure to
unearth our ancient origins...
34
00:01:54,600 --> 00:01:55,960
Hello.
35
00:01:57,440 --> 00:02:00,119
Well, that's a pretty
timeless experience.
36
00:02:00,120 --> 00:02:04,999
...and rediscover long lost stories
that still impact our lives today.
37
00:02:05,000 --> 00:02:07,839
I've got access to the
very latest discoveries
38
00:02:07,840 --> 00:02:11,839
to piece together
the truth of lost worlds.
39
00:02:11,840 --> 00:02:14,519
You just stepped back
to the time of King Midas.
40
00:02:14,520 --> 00:02:15,720
It's just so beautiful.
41
00:02:30,720 --> 00:02:32,159
Anatolia -
42
00:02:32,160 --> 00:02:34,039
ancient Asia Minor -
43
00:02:34,040 --> 00:02:37,719
has left its mark on
every era of human history,
44
00:02:37,720 --> 00:02:40,360
from antiquity to the modern world.
45
00:02:42,480 --> 00:02:46,719
I'm setting out to investigate
how cultures connected here,
46
00:02:46,720 --> 00:02:50,000
changing history and
laying the foundations of today.
47
00:02:52,000 --> 00:02:56,639
Now I'm heading west to one
of the greatest sites in Turkiye.
48
00:02:56,640 --> 00:02:59,320
It's the ancient city of Ephesus.
49
00:03:04,960 --> 00:03:09,799
Ephesus is just inland
from Turkiye's western coast,
50
00:03:09,800 --> 00:03:12,000
with roots 6,000 years deep...
51
00:03:14,000 --> 00:03:16,679
...a magnet for
travellers of all kinds
52
00:03:16,680 --> 00:03:19,000
and a creative hub for millennia.
53
00:03:20,760 --> 00:03:24,639
Ancient authors heaped
their praise on this place.
54
00:03:24,640 --> 00:03:26,999
They described it
as the greatest market
55
00:03:27,000 --> 00:03:29,399
this side of the Taurus Mountains,
56
00:03:29,400 --> 00:03:33,239
and somebody said this
place was the light of Asia.
57
00:03:33,240 --> 00:03:35,439
But I'm on a mission to discover
58
00:03:35,440 --> 00:03:38,840
what that meant to the people
who actually lived here.
59
00:03:41,840 --> 00:03:44,119
A multicultural metropolis.
60
00:03:44,120 --> 00:03:47,959
To understand how Ephesus
became such a major city,
61
00:03:47,960 --> 00:03:50,440
I'm exploring right at
the edge of the site.
62
00:03:52,640 --> 00:03:54,119
When you come up here,
63
00:03:54,120 --> 00:03:58,839
you get a sense of how
massive this city was.
64
00:03:58,840 --> 00:04:03,320
At its height, between 200,000
and 300,000 people lived here.
65
00:04:07,000 --> 00:04:09,079
But the big surprise
about this place
66
00:04:09,080 --> 00:04:12,399
is that main street down there
is called Harbour Street.
67
00:04:12,400 --> 00:04:15,999
And that really is the
secret to Ephesus' success,
68
00:04:16,000 --> 00:04:20,959
because that led down to a
massive commercial port here.
69
00:04:20,960 --> 00:04:22,839
And you can't see it now,
70
00:04:22,840 --> 00:04:24,959
because back in antiquity,
71
00:04:24,960 --> 00:04:27,000
the sea came right up here.
72
00:04:31,760 --> 00:04:34,599
Archaeologists have
found evidence of warehouses
73
00:04:34,600 --> 00:04:36,999
lining this commercial port
74
00:04:37,000 --> 00:04:38,799
and the shoreline,
75
00:04:38,800 --> 00:04:41,839
gradually moving
over three miles west
76
00:04:41,840 --> 00:04:44,000
as the ancient estuary silted up.
77
00:04:48,000 --> 00:04:51,919
In its glory days,
at the time of the Roman Empire,
78
00:04:51,920 --> 00:04:54,999
money flooded into Ephesus.
79
00:04:55,000 --> 00:04:59,440
Wealth that helped spark an
awe-inspiring cultural flourishing.
80
00:05:05,200 --> 00:05:06,999
If you know where to look,
81
00:05:07,000 --> 00:05:09,679
there's evidence of the arts
not just for public
82
00:05:09,680 --> 00:05:11,440
but private enjoyment...
83
00:05:13,480 --> 00:05:16,720
...in Ephesus'
incredibly preserved homes.
84
00:05:22,480 --> 00:05:24,519
These are the houses
that belonged to people
85
00:05:24,520 --> 00:05:26,559
who were doing really,
really well in life.
86
00:05:26,560 --> 00:05:29,759
And what's fascinating is
that they cover their walls
87
00:05:29,760 --> 00:05:33,000
with images of arts,
and music and culture.
88
00:05:35,000 --> 00:05:37,479
And I just had... I
had to show you this.
89
00:05:37,480 --> 00:05:39,519
I just think it's
completely adorable.
90
00:05:39,520 --> 00:05:42,999
So, this is a hugely magnified image
91
00:05:43,000 --> 00:05:46,599
that was found on a
tiny, tiny ring right here.
92
00:05:46,600 --> 00:05:51,959
And it shows a little
mouse playing a flute.
93
00:05:51,960 --> 00:05:52,960
Just divine.
94
00:05:54,520 --> 00:05:57,359
Frescoes of the muses in this house
95
00:05:57,360 --> 00:06:01,519
are a clue to one
of Ephesus' passions,
96
00:06:01,520 --> 00:06:02,520
music.
97
00:06:04,680 --> 00:06:07,159
Here, rare evidence is emerging
98
00:06:07,160 --> 00:06:11,359
about what the people of
antiquity actually listened to.
99
00:06:11,360 --> 00:06:14,359
There's been an astonishing
discovery close to here as well,
100
00:06:14,360 --> 00:06:15,919
about 30 miles away.
101
00:06:15,920 --> 00:06:17,759
It's inscribed on marble,
102
00:06:17,760 --> 00:06:20,159
and it's the world's oldest
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00:06:20,160 --> 00:06:22,999
complete musical composition,
104
00:06:23,000 --> 00:06:27,599
with notation,
and melody and lyrics.
105
00:06:27,600 --> 00:06:30,319
The musical fragment
has been reconstructed
106
00:06:30,320 --> 00:06:33,479
by archaeologists of sound,
107
00:06:33,480 --> 00:06:36,679
giving us a rare
opportunity to travel through time
108
00:06:36,680 --> 00:06:41,320
to experience the same sounds
in the same places as the ancients.
109
00:06:43,280 --> 00:06:46,719
So we know what the
people who were living here
110
00:06:46,720 --> 00:06:49,999
would've been listening as
they went about their daily lives.
111
00:06:50,000 --> 00:06:51,439
And I've got it on here,
112
00:06:51,440 --> 00:06:53,919
so I'm just going to have
a listen as I walk around.
113
00:06:53,920 --> 00:06:55,560
STRINGED INSTRUMENT PLUCKS
114
00:06:58,680 --> 00:07:01,000
SINGING IN OTHER LANGUAGE
115
00:07:24,560 --> 00:07:27,679
I should just explain
what the lyrics are.
116
00:07:27,680 --> 00:07:29,519
So, they're really poignant.
117
00:07:29,520 --> 00:07:30,999
So, the words are saying,
118
00:07:31,000 --> 00:07:34,919
"While you're in this world,
shine brightly.
119
00:07:34,920 --> 00:07:37,999
"Make your mark.
Don't be full of sorrow.
120
00:07:38,000 --> 00:07:41,039
"Because our time is limited,
121
00:07:41,040 --> 00:07:43,279
"and death will take its due."
122
00:07:43,280 --> 00:07:45,000
SINGING CONTINUES
123
00:08:01,880 --> 00:08:03,559
And on my travels here,
124
00:08:03,560 --> 00:08:07,000
I'm lucky enough to stay
with a very musical family.
125
00:08:08,440 --> 00:08:11,159
I've just found out
that the son of the house
126
00:08:11,160 --> 00:08:14,359
where I'm staying
is actually inspired
127
00:08:14,360 --> 00:08:16,399
by that music and
the musical instruments
128
00:08:16,400 --> 00:08:18,559
that were used
thousands of years ago
129
00:08:18,560 --> 00:08:20,839
to compose his own music.
130
00:08:20,840 --> 00:08:22,919
And that's what
you're listening to now.
131
00:08:22,920 --> 00:08:24,160
WOODWIND PLAYS
132
00:08:26,000 --> 00:08:30,839
A son of Ephesus, who grew up
right by this enchanting city,
133
00:08:30,840 --> 00:08:33,440
inspired by the ancients before him.
134
00:08:47,000 --> 00:08:48,319
Next morning,
135
00:08:48,320 --> 00:08:50,679
it's time to hit the road again,
136
00:08:50,680 --> 00:08:54,280
heading due east to the
magical region of Cappadocia.
137
00:09:03,000 --> 00:09:05,559
I want to find how
the incredible landscape
138
00:09:05,560 --> 00:09:08,479
fostered connections
between different cultures,
139
00:09:08,480 --> 00:09:10,640
even in extreme environments.
140
00:09:13,640 --> 00:09:15,999
This region's always
been a borderland,
141
00:09:16,000 --> 00:09:19,759
and although this
incredible, unique,
142
00:09:19,760 --> 00:09:22,199
beautiful, otherworldly landscape
143
00:09:22,200 --> 00:09:25,479
can seem a little austere...
144
00:09:25,480 --> 00:09:27,839
...in fact, for centuries,
145
00:09:27,840 --> 00:09:31,640
it's provided people
with refuge and abundance.
146
00:09:36,920 --> 00:09:40,000
Humans arrived here
back in prehistoric times.
147
00:09:42,000 --> 00:09:44,679
For the last 3,000 years,
148
00:09:44,680 --> 00:09:49,159
locals have literally
carved out an existence.
149
00:09:49,160 --> 00:09:51,599
Citadels high in the rock
150
00:09:51,600 --> 00:09:53,720
and subterranean cities.
151
00:09:55,600 --> 00:09:58,439
There's really
fascinating recent research
152
00:09:58,440 --> 00:10:00,919
that suggests that
the name Cappadocia
153
00:10:00,920 --> 00:10:03,999
actually comes from that
really ancient Hittite language,
154
00:10:04,000 --> 00:10:06,519
and the word "Katapeda",
155
00:10:06,520 --> 00:10:09,159
which literally means,
"the place below".
156
00:10:09,160 --> 00:10:10,839
Which makes total sense
157
00:10:10,840 --> 00:10:13,760
when you see there are
just caves everywhere here.
158
00:10:15,840 --> 00:10:19,519
And my exploration
is taking me underground
159
00:10:19,520 --> 00:10:23,440
to find buried secrets
that lie hidden in these rocks.
160
00:10:35,600 --> 00:10:37,199
Throughout history,
161
00:10:37,200 --> 00:10:40,079
travellers have come to
Cappadocia to take refuge
162
00:10:40,080 --> 00:10:42,999
from the temptations
of the worldly realm,
163
00:10:43,000 --> 00:10:47,520
like hermits living
isolated in their hermitages.
164
00:10:51,000 --> 00:10:54,519
Today, these amazing rock formations
165
00:10:54,520 --> 00:10:57,879
are often called fairy chimneys.
166
00:10:57,880 --> 00:10:59,519
And you can just imagine, can't you,
167
00:10:59,520 --> 00:11:03,999
how over the centuries,
they gave a kind of mystical,
168
00:11:04,000 --> 00:11:08,560
spiritual inspiration to
all those hermits and ascetics here.
169
00:11:13,520 --> 00:11:14,919
Hi. Hi.
170
00:11:14,920 --> 00:11:16,119
SHE SPEAKS TURKISH
171
00:11:16,120 --> 00:11:17,759
Is it OK to...?
172
00:11:17,760 --> 00:11:19,000
SHE SPEAKS TURKISH
173
00:11:20,880 --> 00:11:24,839
SHE SPEAKS TURKISH
174
00:11:24,840 --> 00:11:26,039
This rock,
175
00:11:26,040 --> 00:11:28,759
which sits in an ancient vineyard,
176
00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:30,479
hides a secret.
177
00:11:30,480 --> 00:11:32,639
Nicknamed, fittingly,
178
00:11:32,640 --> 00:11:34,480
the Grape Church.
179
00:11:37,960 --> 00:11:40,799
The colours here are just
astonishing, aren't they?
180
00:11:40,800 --> 00:11:41,959
Look here.
181
00:11:41,960 --> 00:11:44,800
Those are the grapes
up there on the top...
182
00:11:45,880 --> 00:11:48,080
...as well as these
kind of official figures.
183
00:11:50,920 --> 00:11:52,639
Because some of
these are a bit time worn
184
00:11:52,640 --> 00:11:54,159
you've got to scan.
185
00:11:54,160 --> 00:11:56,040
It will make it
much easier to read.
186
00:12:01,000 --> 00:12:04,000
{\an8}The scans reveal
secrets of the Grape Church.
187
00:12:06,960 --> 00:12:08,960
Like these carvings.
188
00:12:10,400 --> 00:12:12,199
{\an8}It's very, very naughty, obviously,
189
00:12:12,200 --> 00:12:13,559
{\an8}because this is graffiti.
190
00:12:13,560 --> 00:12:16,799
But these little images
and the names have been left
191
00:12:16,800 --> 00:12:20,360
by all the pilgrims who've
come here over the centuries.
192
00:12:24,080 --> 00:12:27,559
{\an8}The carvings are a clue to
the many generations of pilgrims
193
00:12:27,560 --> 00:12:29,999
{\an8}who came here to pay their respects
194
00:12:30,000 --> 00:12:33,000
{\an8}to one man who worshipped
in this tiny church...
195
00:12:35,880 --> 00:12:38,399
...Saint Niketas,
196
00:12:38,400 --> 00:12:42,680
who lived somewhere
slightly unexpected.
197
00:12:45,480 --> 00:12:49,439
So, the church is carved
out of this single rock.
198
00:12:49,440 --> 00:12:53,279
And Saint Niketas
actually lived in a cell
199
00:12:53,280 --> 00:12:55,159
that was hollowed out
right at the top there
200
00:12:55,160 --> 00:12:56,599
for all of his life.
201
00:12:56,600 --> 00:13:00,000
So he was one of the very
first hermits in his hermitage.
202
00:13:01,600 --> 00:13:04,719
I noticed the outside steps
have been badly eroded
203
00:13:04,720 --> 00:13:05,999
over the centuries,
204
00:13:06,000 --> 00:13:09,679
so now it's almost
impossible to access.
205
00:13:09,680 --> 00:13:13,080
However, we have a drone team,
and they are going to help us out.
206
00:13:15,560 --> 00:13:18,439
Our research drone
has special permission
207
00:13:18,440 --> 00:13:22,480
to become the first visitor to the
hermit's house in a very long time.
208
00:13:25,920 --> 00:13:27,079
Anyway you can tilt up?
209
00:13:27,080 --> 00:13:29,680
Because you see
the cross on the roof.
210
00:13:34,680 --> 00:13:37,719
It was a transcendent
but tough existence
211
00:13:37,720 --> 00:13:39,160
for the 10th century hermit.
212
00:13:42,000 --> 00:13:43,999
There's a light
dusting of snow today,
213
00:13:44,000 --> 00:13:47,959
but it can get really
cold here in the winter.
214
00:13:47,960 --> 00:13:49,959
Imagine living inside there.
215
00:13:49,960 --> 00:13:52,799
That shows endurance.
SHE CHUCKLES
216
00:13:52,800 --> 00:13:56,879
And then my team and I
spot a flash of evidence
217
00:13:56,880 --> 00:13:59,999
connecting us directly to Niketas.
218
00:14:00,000 --> 00:14:02,759
I think I saw a bit of painting.
219
00:14:02,760 --> 00:14:04,399
It's more of a
drawing than a painting,
220
00:14:04,400 --> 00:14:06,359
but if you just pan left.
221
00:14:06,360 --> 00:14:08,000
Pan left. Pan left.
222
00:14:09,360 --> 00:14:11,920
You see it now?
Oh, yeah. Yeah. There, there, there.
223
00:14:15,000 --> 00:14:17,679
The red drawing is mysterious.
224
00:14:17,680 --> 00:14:20,120
Maybe we're the first to
witness it in centuries.
225
00:14:23,560 --> 00:14:26,239
Perhaps the remains
of a religious symbol
226
00:14:26,240 --> 00:14:30,600
inspired by the spiritual
experience of living on this rock.
227
00:14:39,240 --> 00:14:43,999
But it wasn't just lone monks
in Cappadocia's unique landscape.
228
00:14:44,000 --> 00:14:48,679
I'm heading 30 miles south
to the remote village of Gumusluk,
229
00:14:48,680 --> 00:14:53,520
where the ascetic life could
have been a communal experience.
230
00:14:56,000 --> 00:14:59,919
In 1962,
an even more impressive hidden gem
231
00:14:59,920 --> 00:15:03,600
was rediscovered
deep in the bedrock.
232
00:15:05,960 --> 00:15:07,999
Originally built
in the 10th century,
233
00:15:08,000 --> 00:15:12,200
this remarkable place has long
been believed to be a monastery.
234
00:15:14,680 --> 00:15:17,599
It's honeycombed with caves,
235
00:15:17,600 --> 00:15:21,560
presumably cells for a
whole congregation of monks.
236
00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:29,519
Incredibly, this square courtyard
237
00:15:29,520 --> 00:15:33,199
was carved 15m deep
238
00:15:33,200 --> 00:15:35,440
in a volcanic, rocky outcrop.
239
00:15:47,360 --> 00:15:50,919
Hidden inside the
complex is a chapel,
240
00:15:50,920 --> 00:15:53,000
covered in sacred imagery.
241
00:15:55,520 --> 00:15:58,359
It's just astonishing, isn't it?
242
00:15:58,360 --> 00:16:02,559
This was all created
sometime in the 11th century.
243
00:16:02,560 --> 00:16:05,320
So it's almost all 1,000 years old.
244
00:16:09,040 --> 00:16:11,359
Up until the 1960s,
245
00:16:11,360 --> 00:16:13,639
this was covered in soot black
246
00:16:13,640 --> 00:16:16,999
because of all the lamps that had
been burnt here down the centuries.
247
00:16:17,000 --> 00:16:18,679
And bit by bit,
248
00:16:18,680 --> 00:16:21,080
these beautiful paintings
are being restored.
249
00:16:24,000 --> 00:16:26,399
So you can see up at the top,
that's Mary,
250
00:16:26,400 --> 00:16:29,439
the Virgin Mary in the middle.
251
00:16:29,440 --> 00:16:31,719
And then that's Saint Basil.
252
00:16:31,720 --> 00:16:35,759
And Saint Basil was really crucial
in promoting the idea of monasticism
253
00:16:35,760 --> 00:16:38,320
as something that lots
of people could do together.
254
00:16:40,000 --> 00:16:42,559
Many of these
paintings are of locals
255
00:16:42,560 --> 00:16:47,959
who had a big impact on
the wider medieval world...
256
00:16:47,960 --> 00:16:51,680
...including one much beloved saint.
257
00:16:53,320 --> 00:16:56,319
I've just got to show
you the man on my right,
258
00:16:56,320 --> 00:16:57,879
with this lovely red cloak,
259
00:16:57,880 --> 00:16:59,999
with a white trim
and a long white beard.
260
00:17:00,000 --> 00:17:01,919
He's Saint Nicholas,
261
00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:06,000
who, of course, is also known as
Santa Claus or Father Christmas.
262
00:17:10,880 --> 00:17:14,999
I discover the
complex is covered in art.
263
00:17:15,000 --> 00:17:18,280
There's something
really surprising up here.
264
00:17:20,600 --> 00:17:23,439
I've been told there's
evidence that points
265
00:17:23,440 --> 00:17:28,000
to a very different interpretation
of this rock cut building.
266
00:17:37,000 --> 00:17:39,319
This could change everything,
267
00:17:39,320 --> 00:17:42,559
because what you're looking
at here aren't religious paintings.
268
00:17:42,560 --> 00:17:46,599
They're actually an
illustration of Aesop's fables.
269
00:17:46,600 --> 00:17:49,079
Aesop was that
very famous ancient author,
270
00:17:49,080 --> 00:17:51,879
who lived around 2,600 years ago,
271
00:17:51,880 --> 00:17:55,799
whose morality tales
are still really popular today.
272
00:17:55,800 --> 00:18:00,839
So, for instance, you've got a
lion who goes hunting with an ass.
273
00:18:00,840 --> 00:18:04,639
And the moral of that story is,
never go hunting with a lion,
274
00:18:04,640 --> 00:18:08,599
because the lion will always
get the lion's share.
275
00:18:08,600 --> 00:18:11,079
There's a goat up here just
276
00:18:11,080 --> 00:18:14,199
starting to nibble at vine leaves,
277
00:18:14,200 --> 00:18:16,919
grapes again, featuring, obviously.
278
00:18:16,920 --> 00:18:18,599
And the vine speaks and says,
279
00:18:18,600 --> 00:18:20,999
"I will get my revenge
when you are sacrificed
280
00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:24,919
"and wine is drunk at
the time that you are eaten!"
281
00:18:24,920 --> 00:18:27,159
And then just over here,
it's very eroded,
282
00:18:27,160 --> 00:18:31,799
but it could be that it's telling
the story of the fox and the grapes.
283
00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:36,399
So, a fox was reaching up to eat
a lovely plump bunch of grapes
284
00:18:36,400 --> 00:18:38,719
and couldn't quite get it and goes,
285
00:18:38,720 --> 00:18:40,879
"I don't want to have those anyway."
286
00:18:40,880 --> 00:18:43,440
And that is where we get
the phrase "sour grapes" from.
287
00:18:47,880 --> 00:18:50,999
I love the fact that
grapes appear again.
288
00:18:51,000 --> 00:18:54,840
They seem to play such an important
role in the Cappadocian imagination.
289
00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:57,799
What are they -
290
00:18:57,800 --> 00:19:00,599
and these secular story frescoes -
291
00:19:00,600 --> 00:19:03,000
doing here in a monastery?
292
00:19:04,760 --> 00:19:09,320
Some have begun to wonder if this
may not be a home for monks at all.
293
00:19:13,000 --> 00:19:17,559
So there's a chance that
this is actually one massive,
294
00:19:17,560 --> 00:19:19,639
wealthy merchant's house,
295
00:19:19,640 --> 00:19:22,599
and he stood here at his balcony
checking out on his business
296
00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:23,800
going on down below.
297
00:19:25,200 --> 00:19:27,519
Archaeology often teaches us
298
00:19:27,520 --> 00:19:30,999
that the most obvious
conclusion may not be right.
299
00:19:31,000 --> 00:19:35,080
A little more digging
can reveal a whole new story.
300
00:19:48,520 --> 00:19:50,799
To fully immerse in Cappadocia,
301
00:19:50,800 --> 00:19:53,359
I'm staying in a cave myself,
302
00:19:53,360 --> 00:19:56,000
but this one, a charming hotel.
303
00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:02,919
Meeting up with
local friends to explore
304
00:20:02,920 --> 00:20:06,119
how this region has
evolved hand in hand with nature
305
00:20:06,120 --> 00:20:09,239
and impacted the wider world.
306
00:20:09,240 --> 00:20:10,400
Lovely.
307
00:20:12,920 --> 00:20:15,000
That is a welcoming.
That is really delicious.
308
00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:18,679
Cos they've been producing and
309
00:20:18,680 --> 00:20:20,999
trading wine from
here for centuries.
310
00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:23,959
Probably more than 3,000 years.
311
00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:26,399
{\an8}Even our word, "wine",
312
00:20:26,400 --> 00:20:28,999
{\an8}can be traced back to "wiyana",
313
00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:32,999
{\an8}a word used by the Bronze Age
rulers of Anatolia, the Hittites.
314
00:20:33,000 --> 00:20:35,199
They record wine in their tablets,
315
00:20:35,200 --> 00:20:36,799
and there are
lovely pictures of them,
316
00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:39,679
of the kings and the queens
drinking wine, aren't there?
317
00:20:39,680 --> 00:20:41,919
Common saying among locals is that
318
00:20:41,920 --> 00:20:46,599
the harder that the vine roots
try to reach for water
319
00:20:46,600 --> 00:20:49,239
under the poorest volcanic soil,
320
00:20:49,240 --> 00:20:51,039
the tastier the grapes get.
321
00:20:51,040 --> 00:20:52,479
Ah-ha!
322
00:20:52,480 --> 00:20:56,359
We have the grape, which
doesn't require that much water,
323
00:20:56,360 --> 00:21:01,319
and we have people who don't really
need more than what they have.
324
00:21:01,320 --> 00:21:03,679
That's a lesson
we've got to remember.
325
00:21:03,680 --> 00:21:07,599
Jan here told me that
I'd like you and your place.
326
00:21:07,600 --> 00:21:10,600
It's so beautiful.
Thank you. Thank you.
327
00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:20,999
It's time to leave Cappadocia
328
00:21:21,000 --> 00:21:25,000
and travel 500 miles
across this vast country.
329
00:21:28,880 --> 00:21:32,519
Now we're heading out to the
very eastern edge of Anatolia,
330
00:21:32,520 --> 00:21:35,999
right across the country,
to Kars province,
331
00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:39,000
which has some
astonishing revelations.
332
00:21:44,560 --> 00:21:47,439
Here, geography has shaped history,
333
00:21:47,440 --> 00:21:51,600
where the mountains of the Caucasus
meet the high plateau of Anatolia.
334
00:21:54,000 --> 00:21:58,480
In winter,
the temperature can plunge to -40.
335
00:22:00,400 --> 00:22:05,519
Lake Cildir sits almost
2,000m above sea level.
336
00:22:05,520 --> 00:22:08,720
One of the great high
altitude lakes of Anatolia.
337
00:22:13,000 --> 00:22:17,039
This lake's completely
frozen in the winter,
338
00:22:17,040 --> 00:22:19,999
and these guys are going
to help me get across it.
339
00:22:20,000 --> 00:22:22,960
It's the safest and fastest way.
340
00:22:24,440 --> 00:22:27,679
Its local people,
and their treasured horses,
341
00:22:27,680 --> 00:22:30,760
have thrived for centuries
on the icy shores of Cildir...
342
00:22:32,560 --> 00:22:36,000
...making a living helping traders
and travellers cross each year.
343
00:22:38,680 --> 00:22:40,999
I've never been on
a frozen lake before.
344
00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:43,319
It's so exciting to do it
with these guys,
345
00:22:43,320 --> 00:22:44,679
with their horses,
346
00:22:44,680 --> 00:22:48,079
cos this is how it's been
happening for not just centuries,
347
00:22:48,080 --> 00:22:49,520
but thousands of years here.
348
00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:54,799
It's thrilling to
find they're still at it,
349
00:22:54,800 --> 00:22:56,760
running visitors to the far shore.
350
00:23:00,000 --> 00:23:01,719
SHE SPEAKS TURKISH
351
00:23:01,720 --> 00:23:04,679
I'm Bettany. Bettany. How are you?
My name is Barratt. Barratt!
352
00:23:04,680 --> 00:23:07,239
Lovely to meet you.
What's the name of your horse?
353
00:23:07,240 --> 00:23:08,959
Niko. Niko. Beautiful.
354
00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:10,279
Is it OK to get in?
355
00:23:10,280 --> 00:23:12,679
OK. OK.
356
00:23:12,680 --> 00:23:14,999
For me? Yes.
357
00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:17,039
He's right as well.
358
00:23:17,040 --> 00:23:20,079
Beautiful. Not warm today.
359
00:23:20,080 --> 00:23:21,239
OK.
360
00:23:21,240 --> 00:23:22,519
SHE SPEAKS TURKISH
361
00:23:22,520 --> 00:23:24,280
OK, here? Thank you.
362
00:23:40,760 --> 00:23:43,559
Horses have always been a
part of Anatolian culture,
363
00:23:43,560 --> 00:23:47,479
and Turkic tribes came here
by horse from the steppes,
364
00:23:47,480 --> 00:23:50,999
and then used the horses to trade
goods, and actually, to sell them.
365
00:23:51,000 --> 00:23:55,000
Using them both as transport
and as highly prized trade goods...
366
00:23:56,440 --> 00:23:58,479
...they've been long loved.
367
00:23:58,480 --> 00:24:01,519
Travellers from Central Asia
were some of the very first
368
00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:06,680
to domesticate the ancestors of all
modern horses in around 2000 BCE.
369
00:24:08,000 --> 00:24:10,519
They believed these
glorious creatures
370
00:24:10,520 --> 00:24:13,159
were descended from the sky.
371
00:24:13,160 --> 00:24:15,479
They could be buried
with the highest honours,
372
00:24:15,480 --> 00:24:17,720
sometimes alongside their owners.
373
00:24:23,360 --> 00:24:26,720
Lake Cildir is about
12 miles at its widest...
374
00:24:28,000 --> 00:24:30,999
...a chilling 42m deep,
375
00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:34,360
and in winter,
the ice is half a metre thick.
376
00:24:36,120 --> 00:24:39,399
When it's frozen, it takes
a quarter of the time to cross
377
00:24:39,400 --> 00:24:40,720
than it does in the summer.
378
00:24:42,000 --> 00:24:44,799
A vital passage for the technology,
379
00:24:44,800 --> 00:24:47,399
knowledge, raw materials
and luxuries
380
00:24:47,400 --> 00:24:50,559
transported on the Silk Roads.
381
00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:52,839
People have been trading across here
382
00:24:52,840 --> 00:24:55,119
for at least 1,000 years,
383
00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:57,919
just like this.
384
00:24:57,920 --> 00:24:59,199
And you know what?
385
00:24:59,200 --> 00:25:02,720
Travelling in conditions like this
gives me massive respect for them.
386
00:25:06,800 --> 00:25:11,119
My destination is a very special
city on those ancient silk roads.
387
00:25:11,120 --> 00:25:14,160
A place packed with hidden secrets.
388
00:25:24,480 --> 00:25:27,599
About 50 miles south
of Lake Cildir,
389
00:25:27,600 --> 00:25:32,439
on a volcanic plateau
is the beautiful,
390
00:25:32,440 --> 00:25:38,880
desolate city of Ani,
a rich tapestry of cultures.
391
00:25:43,320 --> 00:25:46,559
It's just incredible
to think of all the people
392
00:25:46,560 --> 00:25:48,559
who've been here since prehistory.
393
00:25:48,560 --> 00:25:52,799
So, Alexander the Great's
soldiers came here,
394
00:25:52,800 --> 00:25:56,840
and invaders from the Far East,
including the Mongols.
395
00:25:58,840 --> 00:26:02,959
This ancient city, first mentioned
in the fifth century,
396
00:26:02,960 --> 00:26:06,999
flowered under the
Bagratuni Kingdom of Armenia.
397
00:26:07,000 --> 00:26:09,039
150 years later,
398
00:26:09,040 --> 00:26:13,799
an influx of new people would change
the course of Anatolian history.
399
00:26:13,800 --> 00:26:17,479
The Seljuks, the first
Turkic populations
400
00:26:17,480 --> 00:26:20,359
to arrive here from Central Asia.
401
00:26:20,360 --> 00:26:23,839
They brought their art and culture.
402
00:26:23,840 --> 00:26:25,279
At its height,
403
00:26:25,280 --> 00:26:29,599
there could have been as many
as 100,000 people in this city.
404
00:26:29,600 --> 00:26:33,639
And where I'm walking right now
is just one of the many bazaars.
405
00:26:33,640 --> 00:26:36,319
This is the Seljuk Bazaar.
406
00:26:36,320 --> 00:26:41,279
Isn't it a buzz imagining them
coming here on their camels,
407
00:26:41,280 --> 00:26:45,199
bringing goods from all points
of the compass,
408
00:26:45,200 --> 00:26:48,560
trading beautiful things
and beautiful ideas?
409
00:26:52,800 --> 00:26:54,599
A thousand years ago,
410
00:26:54,600 --> 00:26:59,440
Ani had a privileged position on
the world's trading superhighway.
411
00:27:00,840 --> 00:27:02,879
We're in Anatolia now.
412
00:27:02,880 --> 00:27:08,560
This is where the Caucasus
and Central Asia met Anatolia.
413
00:27:11,680 --> 00:27:15,039
Ancient trade in silk
from China and ceramics
414
00:27:15,040 --> 00:27:18,999
and gemstones from Central Asia
pass through here
415
00:27:19,000 --> 00:27:22,759
bound for the markets of Persia
and the Mediterranean.
416
00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:26,639
Because of that, this was one
of the richest cities at the time.
417
00:27:26,640 --> 00:27:30,079
And it's this ghost town now,
but it's seen so much history,
418
00:27:30,080 --> 00:27:33,239
so much wealth
and so much interchange
419
00:27:33,240 --> 00:27:36,199
of people and ideas.
420
00:27:36,200 --> 00:27:37,999
So it's lovely coming here
421
00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:40,920
and listening to the voices
of the past talking to us here.
422
00:27:47,320 --> 00:27:51,519
The merchants of Ani grew rich
from the Silk Roads trade,
423
00:27:51,520 --> 00:27:54,600
and the evidence still litters
the landscape.
424
00:28:00,440 --> 00:28:07,519
You can just imagine the wealth
that originally built this place.
425
00:28:07,520 --> 00:28:10,880
It would have been like
a jewel box of colours.
426
00:28:12,520 --> 00:28:16,839
Tigran Honents was a 13th century
Georgian merchant
427
00:28:16,840 --> 00:28:21,160
who spent part of his fortune
on this incredible building.
428
00:28:23,440 --> 00:28:25,919
And I love the fact that
the man who's given his name
429
00:28:25,920 --> 00:28:29,239
to this is actually here.
He's in the church up at the top.
430
00:28:29,240 --> 00:28:32,359
He's giving a little miniature
of the building
431
00:28:32,360 --> 00:28:34,240
that he sponsored to the bishop.
432
00:28:38,200 --> 00:28:39,799
Nobody lives here now,
433
00:28:39,800 --> 00:28:43,199
but you've got all these people
who had these flourishing lives
434
00:28:43,200 --> 00:28:46,479
and were incredibly proud
of what they've achieved.
435
00:28:46,480 --> 00:28:49,519
I love it when they leave us
these little clues to their lives,
436
00:28:49,520 --> 00:28:52,920
like dropping breadcrumbs
from the past for us to follow.
437
00:28:55,600 --> 00:29:00,159
There's not just churches in Ani,
but many mosques.
438
00:29:00,160 --> 00:29:03,079
Even the remains of a
Zoroastrian fire temple
439
00:29:03,080 --> 00:29:05,399
have recently been found.
440
00:29:05,400 --> 00:29:07,759
At its very best, this was a place
441
00:29:07,760 --> 00:29:11,320
where cultures came together
and collaborated.
442
00:29:12,880 --> 00:29:15,079
Traders and travellers.
443
00:29:15,080 --> 00:29:16,839
Art and architecture.
444
00:29:16,840 --> 00:29:20,480
Literature and ideas met
and mingled here.
445
00:29:22,080 --> 00:29:24,760
Ani thrived despite
many challenges.
446
00:29:26,600 --> 00:29:30,079
This exposed plateau
of ancient pumice and ash
447
00:29:30,080 --> 00:29:33,239
offered little respite
from baking summers,
448
00:29:33,240 --> 00:29:36,439
freezing winters
and invading armies.
449
00:29:36,440 --> 00:29:40,599
But one local is keen
to show me secrets of the site...
450
00:29:40,600 --> 00:29:42,359
Hello!
451
00:29:42,360 --> 00:29:47,559
...revealing ways the people here
survived over the centuries.
452
00:29:47,560 --> 00:29:49,999
Thank you.
453
00:29:50,000 --> 00:29:52,319
It's OK. Yes. Yeah, I'd love it.
I'll follow you.
454
00:29:52,320 --> 00:29:54,920
I'll follow you.
You know the way. Yes, yes.
455
00:29:57,720 --> 00:30:01,239
I've just been told
to hari, hari, go, go,
456
00:30:01,240 --> 00:30:04,119
with my new friend, Kinan,
who's taking us
457
00:30:04,120 --> 00:30:06,640
to some new
archaeological discoveries.
458
00:30:09,760 --> 00:30:14,039
Oh, it's so unspoilt here.
So stunning.
459
00:30:14,040 --> 00:30:18,439
And then a reminder that he's not
the only one who knows these wilds.
460
00:30:18,440 --> 00:30:20,880
What are these tracks here?
Big tracks.
461
00:30:22,640 --> 00:30:29,719
A wolf? Big wolf?
Oh, yes. Yes, yes, yes.
462
00:30:29,720 --> 00:30:33,719
Delighted I'm with someone
who's been living here all his life.
463
00:30:33,720 --> 00:30:35,120
That's cool though, wolf.
464
00:30:39,160 --> 00:30:43,200
Eventually we see signs of
what Kinan wants to show me.
465
00:30:45,040 --> 00:30:48,519
These ones with the little holes?
Pigeons?
466
00:30:48,520 --> 00:30:52,079
You keep on seeing these little
kind of rock dovecots.
467
00:30:52,080 --> 00:30:53,640
Well, I think they kept pigeons.
468
00:30:55,400 --> 00:30:58,759
Kinan was actually born
in one of these caves.
469
00:30:58,760 --> 00:31:02,199
His family lived here
for over 500 years
470
00:31:02,200 --> 00:31:04,520
until as recently as 1957.
471
00:31:06,880 --> 00:31:09,559
Sharing the knowledge
of secret locations
472
00:31:09,560 --> 00:31:11,360
one generation to another.
473
00:31:12,800 --> 00:31:14,919
He even shows me the tomb
474
00:31:14,920 --> 00:31:17,600
of our church building
friend, Tigran Honents.
475
00:31:20,360 --> 00:31:25,559
But the place Kinan's most excited
about is something unexpected.
476
00:31:25,560 --> 00:31:28,280
I've never seen
anything quite like it.
477
00:31:42,000 --> 00:31:44,920
Aha! So there were camels in there?
478
00:31:51,520 --> 00:31:53,800
You can see all these caves there.
479
00:32:03,680 --> 00:32:05,719
So what you've got up there
480
00:32:05,720 --> 00:32:08,559
is places where the merchants
would come and stay.
481
00:32:08,560 --> 00:32:10,719
They'd bring their huge,
huge, huge camel trains
482
00:32:10,720 --> 00:32:13,039
with all their goods,
all their merchandise,
483
00:32:13,040 --> 00:32:15,999
and the camels would be kept
in the middle in the courtyard,
484
00:32:16,000 --> 00:32:18,959
and the merchants
would sleep on top.
485
00:32:18,960 --> 00:32:20,280
So awesome!
486
00:32:25,440 --> 00:32:28,879
So below the monumental city of Ani
487
00:32:28,880 --> 00:32:33,559
is a whole other huge metropolis
deep underground,
488
00:32:33,560 --> 00:32:36,799
a shadow city
where the people of Ani
489
00:32:36,800 --> 00:32:41,200
and visiting merchants
and their animals could take refuge.
490
00:32:42,920 --> 00:32:45,559
Because it's all
volcanic around here,
491
00:32:45,560 --> 00:32:47,839
you've got this pumice falling away.
492
00:32:47,840 --> 00:32:50,959
So that's why
we keep on finding these new,
493
00:32:50,960 --> 00:32:53,839
astonishing archaeological
discoveries.
494
00:32:53,840 --> 00:32:56,520
They're literally revealing
themselves in the rock.
495
00:33:02,400 --> 00:33:04,879
The ruins at Ani,
496
00:33:04,880 --> 00:33:09,759
once the richest city in the region,
speak to its turbulent history.
497
00:33:09,760 --> 00:33:13,199
Devastated by a Mongol invasion
in 1236,
498
00:33:13,200 --> 00:33:16,719
rocked by a series of earthquakes.
499
00:33:16,720 --> 00:33:21,479
But despite the challenges,
it remained a beacon of the value
500
00:33:21,480 --> 00:33:25,999
of cultural coexistence right up
until the 18th century.
501
00:33:26,000 --> 00:33:28,199
Now a ghost town
502
00:33:28,200 --> 00:33:32,160
that holds rich clues
to the lost worlds of the past.
503
00:33:39,720 --> 00:33:43,560
I'm on the move again,
leaving the wonders of Ani behind.
504
00:33:45,680 --> 00:33:47,759
Following the Silk Road trail,
505
00:33:47,760 --> 00:33:51,480
in the footsteps of generations
of merchants.
506
00:33:55,320 --> 00:33:59,599
And a chance to take one of
the most stunning train journeys
507
00:33:59,600 --> 00:34:00,880
in the world.
508
00:34:05,600 --> 00:34:07,400
It's just so beautiful.
509
00:34:13,840 --> 00:34:18,760
The Dogu Express takes me across
the epic snowy steppe.
510
00:34:22,480 --> 00:34:25,239
This journey's really making me
imagine all those travellers
511
00:34:25,240 --> 00:34:29,639
and traders who did this exact route
thousands of years ago
512
00:34:29,640 --> 00:34:33,240
on the ancient silk roads,
on horseback and camel.
513
00:34:35,920 --> 00:34:39,599
It passes through some
of the most historic towns,
514
00:34:39,600 --> 00:34:42,360
cities and landscapes
of central Anatolia.
515
00:34:47,360 --> 00:34:49,279
Eight hours into our journey
516
00:34:49,280 --> 00:34:53,959
and we enter Sivas province
in central eastern Turkiye,
517
00:34:53,960 --> 00:34:57,519
famous for its high sided cliffs
and deep valleys.
518
00:34:57,520 --> 00:35:02,359
Bearing witness to the magnificence
of the Seljuk Turks.
519
00:35:02,360 --> 00:35:05,880
What a way to explore the rich
past of this amazing land.
520
00:35:08,440 --> 00:35:11,079
The other thing I love
about long rail journeys
521
00:35:11,080 --> 00:35:13,759
is making friends
with fellow passengers
522
00:35:13,760 --> 00:35:15,200
and rail staff.
523
00:35:16,480 --> 00:35:18,999
The most beautiful thing
has just happened.
524
00:35:19,000 --> 00:35:22,119
I was sitting here and talking
about how I love Turkish cheese
525
00:35:22,120 --> 00:35:23,799
and Turkish honey,
526
00:35:23,800 --> 00:35:26,519
and the guards heard
and they've ordered ahead.
527
00:35:26,520 --> 00:35:28,999
Is this it?
528
00:35:29,000 --> 00:35:31,440
That is beautiful.
529
00:35:34,240 --> 00:35:36,239
That is service.
530
00:35:36,240 --> 00:35:40,359
So they've just brought this in
from one of the local stations.
531
00:35:40,360 --> 00:35:42,999
Honey's called bal in Turkish.
532
00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:45,559
And if somebody's bali,
it means that they're lucky.
533
00:35:45,560 --> 00:35:48,039
They're kind of literally
with honey.
534
00:35:48,040 --> 00:35:51,159
So it's a really beautiful gift
to give.
535
00:35:51,160 --> 00:35:54,640
Isn't that amazing hospitality
on this extraordinary journey?
536
00:35:59,920 --> 00:36:03,319
There's nothing quite like
the spontaneous sense of community
537
00:36:03,320 --> 00:36:04,640
as the miles roll by.
538
00:36:07,480 --> 00:36:10,440
Even a surprise boogie
in the buffet.
539
00:36:23,840 --> 00:36:26,679
Nestled in the mountains
of Sivas province
540
00:36:26,680 --> 00:36:30,679
is the historic town
of Divrigi.
541
00:36:30,680 --> 00:36:34,759
The remains of a 13th century castle
dominate the skyline,
542
00:36:34,760 --> 00:36:40,519
overlooked by a craggy ridge
packed with hidden caves.
543
00:36:40,520 --> 00:36:43,159
This area is known
for iron ore deposits,
544
00:36:43,160 --> 00:36:45,079
first mined by the Hittites,
545
00:36:45,080 --> 00:36:49,080
who ruled a mighty Anatolian empire
over three millennia ago.
546
00:36:54,320 --> 00:36:57,959
Hello, beauty.
Hello, beautiful.
547
00:36:57,960 --> 00:36:59,519
You're lovely!
548
00:36:59,520 --> 00:37:02,999
Round here, there's this special
breed of dog called Kangal,
549
00:37:03,000 --> 00:37:05,119
named after the village
they come from.
550
00:37:05,120 --> 00:37:08,359
Oh, is that nice?
Is that nice, lady?
551
00:37:08,360 --> 00:37:11,919
Adult Kangals can
reach well over 60kg.
552
00:37:11,920 --> 00:37:15,999
They're bred to protect flocks
from wolves and can be scary,
553
00:37:16,000 --> 00:37:19,119
but this girl is super friendly.
554
00:37:19,120 --> 00:37:21,479
Kangals have actually
become incredibly popular
555
00:37:21,480 --> 00:37:24,399
all around the world now,
but this is where they come from.
556
00:37:24,400 --> 00:37:26,759
Yeah, darling.
557
00:37:26,760 --> 00:37:29,319
My new young friend
is most likely a mixed breed.
558
00:37:29,320 --> 00:37:32,960
Thankfully a more manageable
size than a full Kangal.
559
00:37:35,560 --> 00:37:38,280
At the town's heart
is the Great Mosque.
560
00:37:40,920 --> 00:37:43,759
The first building in Turkiye
to attain
561
00:37:43,760 --> 00:37:47,160
Unesco World Heritage status
in 1985.
562
00:37:48,800 --> 00:37:52,159
Built back in the 13th century
to celebrate
563
00:37:52,160 --> 00:37:55,879
the pivotal Seljuk victory
at the Battle of Manzikert
564
00:37:55,880 --> 00:37:57,839
150 years before,
565
00:37:57,840 --> 00:38:00,720
securing their presence
in Anatolia.
566
00:38:02,240 --> 00:38:05,759
Constructed from local
sandstone, tinged pink
567
00:38:05,760 --> 00:38:08,199
by traces of iron ore,
568
00:38:08,200 --> 00:38:13,119
its four monumental doorways
covered in exquisite carvings,
569
00:38:13,120 --> 00:38:16,559
incredibly featuring
no repeating motifs
570
00:38:16,560 --> 00:38:18,799
or direct symmetry.
571
00:38:18,800 --> 00:38:21,319
One of the guardians of
the mosque has invited me
572
00:38:21,320 --> 00:38:22,480
to take a look around.
573
00:38:24,640 --> 00:38:29,039
Mustafa. Mustafa Bey. Bettany.
Thank you.
574
00:38:29,040 --> 00:38:31,400
It's so beautiful in here.
575
00:38:34,920 --> 00:38:37,439
The interior is
adorned with this stunning,
576
00:38:37,440 --> 00:38:39,799
delicately carved stone, mihrab,
577
00:38:39,800 --> 00:38:41,600
indicating the direction
of Mecca.
578
00:38:46,640 --> 00:38:50,240
And the dome, decorated
with vibrant red paint.
579
00:38:53,800 --> 00:38:55,999
From the mountains all around here.
580
00:38:56,000 --> 00:38:59,199
This is a unique
architectural achievement,
581
00:38:59,200 --> 00:39:03,479
considered by some, the greatest
masterpiece of Seljuk art,
582
00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:06,279
a synthesis of styles
from across Asia
583
00:39:06,280 --> 00:39:10,200
that would go on to influence
later Islamic and Ottoman culture.
584
00:39:14,600 --> 00:39:17,799
The Great Mosque of Divrigi
is spectacular,
585
00:39:17,800 --> 00:39:21,479
and I'm so glad of the chance
finally to visit.
586
00:39:21,480 --> 00:39:24,719
But there's more than meets the eye.
587
00:39:24,720 --> 00:39:27,639
I must admit, there's
a secret reason
588
00:39:27,640 --> 00:39:29,959
that I wanted to come here.
589
00:39:29,960 --> 00:39:34,199
It's a hidden gem,
and the clue to the story
590
00:39:34,200 --> 00:39:37,479
is up there in this writing,
this inscription.
591
00:39:37,480 --> 00:39:39,999
It tells us that this was built
592
00:39:40,000 --> 00:39:46,519
as a house of healing
by a woman called Turan Malik.
593
00:39:46,520 --> 00:39:50,360
And what's inside here is
really, really, really special.
594
00:40:03,600 --> 00:40:06,439
I'm exploring a medieval jewel
595
00:40:06,440 --> 00:40:08,960
nestled in the mountains
of central Anatolia.
596
00:40:22,000 --> 00:40:25,279
I'm listening to this music
because this is a hospital
597
00:40:25,280 --> 00:40:29,439
from the 13th century that records
reveal treated both physical
598
00:40:29,440 --> 00:40:32,760
and mental illness
with music therapy.
599
00:40:39,200 --> 00:40:41,959
That was so beautiful. Thank you.
600
00:40:41,960 --> 00:40:45,639
That was so beautiful. Amazing.
601
00:40:45,640 --> 00:40:48,119
It's transported me.
602
00:40:48,120 --> 00:40:51,239
It's absolutely spiritual
and haunting
603
00:40:51,240 --> 00:40:54,159
and I've never heard
anything like that before.
604
00:40:54,160 --> 00:40:56,280
It's just extraordinary.
605
00:40:59,720 --> 00:41:04,439
The reason that was
so exquisitely beautiful
606
00:41:04,440 --> 00:41:06,479
is because where I'm standing
607
00:41:06,480 --> 00:41:11,799
is basically a massive
acoustic sound stage,
608
00:41:11,800 --> 00:41:14,719
brilliantly engineered,
so that the bass
609
00:41:14,720 --> 00:41:18,799
and the treble are modulated
and kind of bounce off one another.
610
00:41:18,800 --> 00:41:21,159
The asymmetric carved patterns
611
00:41:21,160 --> 00:41:24,359
on the vaulted ceiling
reflect different
612
00:41:24,360 --> 00:41:27,399
sound frequencies
at different rates,
613
00:41:27,400 --> 00:41:31,240
creating these
incredible reverberations.
614
00:41:37,200 --> 00:41:40,919
Turan Malik was one of
a number of leading women
615
00:41:40,920 --> 00:41:44,919
who founded astounding homes
of healing like this,
616
00:41:44,920 --> 00:41:47,719
where each room had
a different acoustic
617
00:41:47,720 --> 00:41:51,119
depending on the needs
of your condition.
618
00:41:51,120 --> 00:41:53,959
The idea was that
the music, the singing,
619
00:41:53,960 --> 00:41:57,519
and the sound from a fountain
that ran through the middle
620
00:41:57,520 --> 00:42:00,519
of the building would heal people
in different ways.
621
00:42:00,520 --> 00:42:03,399
And that is just so
brilliantly progressive,
622
00:42:03,400 --> 00:42:06,599
because it's only now
that we're realising
623
00:42:06,600 --> 00:42:09,159
that art does heal us,
624
00:42:09,160 --> 00:42:11,920
that harmony physically helps us.
625
00:42:14,560 --> 00:42:19,080
And that was happening here
800 years ago.
626
00:42:25,560 --> 00:42:28,919
It's amazing to find
such a priceless treasure
627
00:42:28,920 --> 00:42:30,719
hidden in these hills.
628
00:42:30,720 --> 00:42:32,160
I'll be sad to leave it.
629
00:42:39,360 --> 00:42:42,319
I'm taking with me
the sense that these wonders,
630
00:42:42,320 --> 00:42:44,359
far from being on the fringes,
631
00:42:44,360 --> 00:42:47,680
pulse with the lifeblood
of our shared heritage.
632
00:42:51,280 --> 00:42:54,719
It's been the most
incredible journey so far,
633
00:42:54,720 --> 00:42:57,919
but now it's time for me
to leave central
634
00:42:57,920 --> 00:43:01,479
and eastern Anatolia
and head all the way west
635
00:43:01,480 --> 00:43:04,799
here to Istanbul,
to the city that was once
636
00:43:04,800 --> 00:43:07,960
the imperial capital
of the Ottoman Empire.
637
00:43:15,520 --> 00:43:17,879
It seems I've brought the snow
with me.
638
00:43:17,880 --> 00:43:20,040
A rare sight in this part of Turkey.
639
00:43:22,160 --> 00:43:23,759
Istanbul became the capital of
640
00:43:23,760 --> 00:43:26,320
the Ottoman Empire
in the 15th century.
641
00:43:28,360 --> 00:43:30,199
At the heart of the city,
642
00:43:30,200 --> 00:43:33,840
geographically and psychologically,
are the waterways.
643
00:43:35,920 --> 00:43:38,839
One ancient author
described the city
644
00:43:38,840 --> 00:43:41,199
as being garlanded by waters,
645
00:43:41,200 --> 00:43:44,719
and the very best way
#to discover its historic secrets
646
00:43:44,720 --> 00:43:47,439
is to travel by boat.
647
00:43:47,440 --> 00:43:50,279
Around 50% of these buildings
648
00:43:50,280 --> 00:43:54,479
were actually funded
by Ottoman women,
649
00:43:54,480 --> 00:43:57,079
and like the House of Healing
in Divrigi,
650
00:43:57,080 --> 00:44:00,599
many were focused on serving
the public good,
651
00:44:00,600 --> 00:44:03,680
mosques, baths,
schools and hospitals.
652
00:44:06,080 --> 00:44:07,719
Throughout history,
653
00:44:07,720 --> 00:44:11,159
the Bosphorus has been one of
the world's busiest waterways,
654
00:44:11,160 --> 00:44:14,399
ferries crisscrossing
between Asia and Europe,
655
00:44:14,400 --> 00:44:18,359
and commercial shipping coming
and going between the Black Sea,
656
00:44:18,360 --> 00:44:19,920
the Mediterranean and beyond.
657
00:44:23,280 --> 00:44:25,359
The waterfront of the
Bosphorus is home to
658
00:44:25,360 --> 00:44:29,039
some of the prime
real estate in Istanbul,
659
00:44:29,040 --> 00:44:31,199
and I'm lucky enough to get access to
660
00:44:31,200 --> 00:44:34,600
one of the greatest
imperial palaces of Istanbul.
661
00:44:37,800 --> 00:44:43,360
Ciragan Palace was built in the 1860s
for the Ottoman Sultan Abdulaziz,
662
00:44:44,600 --> 00:44:47,679
serving as a
waterside royal residence
663
00:44:47,680 --> 00:44:49,600
into the early 20th century.
664
00:44:51,960 --> 00:44:55,199
It was transformed in
1991 into a historic
665
00:44:55,200 --> 00:44:59,639
hotel with unforgettable views of
666
00:44:59,640 --> 00:45:03,600
the Bosphorus, which once
inspired a famous author.
667
00:45:06,240 --> 00:45:07,839
I love the fact
that Byron talked about it
668
00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:12,159
as being a thwarted
kiss between two continents.
669
00:45:12,160 --> 00:45:15,559
Because I'm here in Europe
and over there is Asia,
670
00:45:15,560 --> 00:45:18,600
and the only thing that connects us
is this gorgeous, gorgeous waterway.
671
00:45:22,120 --> 00:45:25,079
From these grand
palaces of the Bosphorus,
672
00:45:25,080 --> 00:45:26,679
the Ottoman elite administered their
673
00:45:26,680 --> 00:45:31,200
vast imperial territories
in comfort and splendour.
674
00:45:33,240 --> 00:45:36,480
But pleasure wasn't the
preserve of the elite.
675
00:45:41,600 --> 00:45:44,399
There's a lovely concept of Kaif,
676
00:45:44,400 --> 00:45:50,280
which means savouring life
slowly, whatever the weather.
677
00:45:53,000 --> 00:45:56,639
Perfect for a warming cup
of the local favourite...
678
00:45:56,640 --> 00:46:00,600
Thank you. ..hot, sweet salep.
679
00:46:10,000 --> 00:46:15,039
What an astonishing voyage
of discovery this has been.
680
00:46:15,040 --> 00:46:18,239
And I think that's
because this beautiful place
681
00:46:18,240 --> 00:46:21,439
doesn't just offer us
a gateway through time.
682
00:46:21,440 --> 00:46:26,360
It directly connects the
past to our present.
683
00:46:50,040 --> 00:46:54,000
{\an8}Subtitles by Red Bee Media
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