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Good morning, little one. Let's wake up. Time to...

to wake up.

Good morning, kid.

Are you getting lost there?

Seeing is a very difficult mountain,

It requires a lot of experience.

This is definitely going to be the biggest.

The expedition of my life. It was more than

20 years of physical training,

emotionally, technically to pass

more than two months trying to scale this

mountain.

There are many risks involved.

eight days of trekking to base camp and

weeks for your body to adjust.

[music] going up and down the mountain.

Climbing Everest is my dream.

Let's go. Want more? My biggest challenge.

It's about coordinating all of this with the work.

I work for a large company. I

I have a boss, I have a schedule, I have

time, I have trips, I have a quota

[music] to beat and at the same time I

I need to find a part of the day for

to train.

>> Kisses, Go.

It's a good day, man.

Son, you have to fly, you're not here to stay.

your hand. Just like a little bird, you don't

You have to have it, you have to fly, son. You have to.

to fly, to go to

as high as you can. The first

The camping trip we took, the romantic one

six months ago.

We used to camp a lot on the beaches, because

Throughout Brazil, to the mountains. And he was

That child loved camping.

And he grew up from a very young age,

people going every weekend to

farm.

That was transforming my children.

no more adventurous. The Roman always

He was adventurous.

I loved climbing to the top of the trees in a

Eucalyptus tree during a rainy period. And he

Swinging up there at the top of the tree. He

He didn't jump into the pool from the ground, he climbed up.

He was on the roof and jumping into the pool.

He broke both arms at the same time.

Both arms at the same time.

In current times [music] would be

diagnosed as hyperactive.

Roman was about 7 or 8 years old and he had

a school in Brasilia where he

I was studying.

He was way ahead in the book. He was starting

causing problems in the classroom,

because he was starting to challenge the

teacher, I was starting to want to go more

Furthermore. The teacher

He stapled his book together. Then when I

I found out, and I said: "No, it's not that school."

for him."

Leaving is always the hardest part.

every expedition.

Vitor didn't want to go back to

airport. Dad, I don't want to go there. I'm going

Cry a lot.

Julia was sobbing.

Mountaineering entered my life, it just happened.

in a very unplanned way.

Yes, even as a very young child, my parents...

They gave two encyclopedias, Barça

Mirador, and I had a mania for reading. In

letter E

I had two such big revelations in

Letter E. One was nuclear energy. It was

a curiosity [music] that sparked the

which would become my profession.

Continuing wings,

He reached the Everest section. It was the antithesis.

than what I lived for. My world was

farm, it was a tropical country, there were beaches,

They were waterfalls, it wasn't a world of

snow. [music]

I had never imagined boots, snow,

Oxygen. And then imagine you're a child.

looking at a photo like this and if

imagining myself in that outfit, with that

Astronaut mask, right? Wow, me

I would like to perhaps set foot there someday.

perhaps to know, to see that person's world,

Looking at the sky like that. That's where it was born.

without me realizing it

the Roman mountaineer.

We were once at sea in Arrael.

from the Cape and there was a rocky point there

very difficult, everyone wants it

jump. OR Ob said: "I'm going to jump."

"Jump." I said, "Do you have the courage?" Yes, you do.

So go on, go on, jump. Then he went and

He jumped. And from there he began to...

risking more and more things

Impulsive, right?

>> Good luck.

This is Namaste.

Namaste.

>> This is the padaa. Pass. Medicine.

>> 22 times like Everest. 22

I've known him since 2008.

Together. Here's the partner. Good.

friend. Me [clearing throat]

I went to Campinas to go to college.

Physics, right, nuclear energy. And there I

I met people who transformed the

My life, right? There was a wall of

Climbing, and I'm very close to the sport.

which led me to physical education, then

I joined the swimming team, but that

That wall is there every day, that group over there.

Going up, there was Rodrigo Rainer, there was...

Víor Negrete. In the early 90s

We said, "Wow, let's put together a..."

Climbing wall here at Unicamp, let's go!

"Get everyone together." And that was it.

That's exactly what happened. We

who set up the climbing wall, who [music]

I liked it, that's how it started. So we

He created a tribe, right? And the people who

They liked the adventure, they liked the

climbing especially [music]

They gathered.

These were people I gradually came to know.

They got in touch, became friends, became

mentors, became companions of

escalation.

It was really cool being an instructor [in music].

of Roman. His physical attributes helped.

a lot, and his head too, right? He lives...

climbing in such an intense way that it is

very nice to be on the [music] side

Thus. His joy overflows into

you too.

This is his place. There's no better place.

[music] for him to be there rather than there.

Health,

health,

>> Cheers, [laughs]

Health.

>> [laughter]

From the wall to the stone, from the stone to a

larger stone, 4,000 to 5,000, 5,000 to

6,000, 1,000, 6,000 and so on. Today we

We are 8,000.

I want to get up there, hit the ground running.

above 5,000.

We arrive at base camp in two

days, concentrated, focused on

acclimatization.

Madlan

Very different. 2008. First rise.

Brazilian.

Oh, on

here

>> is

and who introduced me to a blan by

The first time was Víor.

This monument here is Mount Everest.

Memorial. It was designed for

to honor all those who remained in

mountain. And here

one of the missis

Yes, Vital.

Vittor's early departure was a blow.

for everyone and at the same time one

Lesson, right? We're all human, aren't we?

Superman exists.

That's exactly the kind of music I want.

I want to take that risk.

And he was in the place that [music] he

chose to be. So we know what

There is a risk of not returning home.

This first week here is the week of

Detachment. It's hard to get my head out of there.

Brazil, prepare your mind, prepare the

soul, prepare the heart for

to arrive safely at base camp.

Arriving safely at base camp,

That's where the expedition comes in.

My marriage to Dani produced two

magnificent fruits, which is Julia and the

Vittor, right? Julia is 14 now. The

Vittor is going to turn 10.

I usually say that [music] after that

They were born, I lost the right to

to die.

Sports is a very important business.

Here at home. He's here all the time.

Going out to play sports. It's become a routine.

I played volleyball every day. I joined...

I took volleyball lessons and I'm still playing to this day.

He talks, like, when I'm without...

Energy, run, go get the ball, yeah,

He encouraged me in those things.

I think this is a fundamental example.

>> and he will never stop encouraging it

People with these kinds of things, because he knows.

that we like.

So, next expedition, everyone

with me.

[laughter]

There are sports and then there are sports, right?

different.

Camp de volta.

Uh,

This is a sacred place.

This should be the size of a beach.

Copacabana.

It starts over at that last little stall.

Yellow there.

It takes about an hour.

to go to that last stall

Orange there.

The holy grail of mountaineering is you.

conquering the highest of each

continent. This created the famous

Seven peaks. Then, the Conkagua of

South America, McInley, which now

Denali, which is the nominative in America of

North, Vinson in Antarctica, Elbrus

it became the highest mountain in

Europe, the one from Africa, which is the

Kilimandaro, o Evereste obviamente da

Asia and Oceania: the pyramid of Cartens.

In this life plan, the next goal is...

Evereste. What?

Now's the time for us to train a little.

of the technique.

to cross the cracks with a ladder, which

it's the part

>> the most difficult part of the cascade, which is the

the most difficult part of the climb.

I continued training. I ran a

I used to cycle two or three times a week.

Hours a day. Man, I was a monster.

It was a monster. Its aerobic capacity...

Muscle capacity, physiological. Okay,

Let's go to Everest. It's the year, everything was...

Okay.

And on February 15th I left for

Training early in the morning, I skipped a

I went up there on my bicycle, which was a

lady in a forbidden turn to

Right, almost at the very end here, almost.

Arriving home around 8 in the morning.

Roman was training on his bicycle in Rio de Janeiro.

January when he was hit by a car

which was coming from the opposite direction.

I remember the sounds clearly, right? The sound

from the brake, the noise of the shock and then the

impact and that noise from the branch

breaking.

And then comes the pain.

They were both very young [music] and it was

Too soon. The rumor was crushed.

I'm going after him. Neck was

whole, his head was whole, he didn't have

a head injury.

I was afraid I wouldn't see my foot move.

because I didn't know if I had broken it

the column. I looked up like this, there was

a small plaque from the room where I was

Setting up the resuscitation room. I

I said: "Holy shit, I'm worse than..."

I imagined so."

And I could hear him yelling from the other side of the

hospital. And then at that moment I said:

"No, I can't take it anymore." And then I gave a...

a fall and at the same time that I was giving

That fall, she said: "I can't let's go

leaf".

When I arrive at the hospital to see him,

they didn't let them

I'll be in the hospital because of

cries of pain. They thought I didn't

It would be very painful for me.

It's that moment when you feel that

She could have lost her son.

It was a serious fracture, it bled close to

1 L there at the fracture. And the larger the

energy from trauma, more difficult to

healing is more prolonged, more

The process is painful. It goes in like a thread.

guide, then enter with that aste,

with this screw and with these here.

Yes, many people were skeptical, saying:

"Look, this type of fracture..."

It is very difficult to avoid having a specific form.

aftereffects. Well, climbing, running, are

options. Suddenly we're going to make the crossing

[music]

Ocean, kayaking, let's do another

thing.

That was kind of shocking.

I went into the room, to talk, conversing with

He said, "I'm going to climb."

Dr. Alcino who did a job

Phenomenal, he looked at me like that with

that cold, medical sincerity,

[Music], right? He said: "You're going to have a lot of

Lucky if you can walk again without

"Limping." And I was already doped up on morphine, right?

Right? I grabbed him by the collar and said, "Hey,

Dr. Alcina, [music] you do your

I do my job properly, that's what I do.

part. I will not only be able to walk again, but

I'm going back to running my marathons.

I'm going to teach my children to

"Play football."

And I clung to that.

Concerns

There are priorities. Putting your face on

place, stop that bleeding and treat

the possible complications. I'm not

wondering if he's going to run.

>> I was going to have to start all over again like

a child.

>> Oh, slow down. You can't go near the

No, Dad.

There's nowhere to run.

Come film your dad. Come on.

No, I want to see him.

>> Can you see this, Daddy? Daddy,

He's going fast.

Wait a minute. Slow down, Julio.

Get out of bed, get off the crutches,

From the crutch, relearn to walk. From there

The Everest expedition was beginning. But...

a point much further away than

anyone. Or at least I could.

imagine,

not from my house, but from a bed of

hospital.

That's why I had to treat him every day.

of the week, [ __ ] depended a lot on

His willpower, because I was going to...

Give it your all, leave, sweat buckets

during the session.

It depended on us being there by their side.

Watching and chasing after. Me

Physiotherapist available every day here in

house afterwards so he can come back.

>> There would come moments during the night when I

He would call and say, "Dude, I'm not..."

"Enduring the pain." But I had to,

My job was to bend the guy's leg.

Right, man? And every day he would put one on.

Goal and [music] man, he had no mercy.

>> [shout]

>> When we realized it, he was already succeeding.

He was walking with crutches, but he was

able to walk.

>> In just one day I would run, cycle and swim that

Not even a madman. Out of nowhere, he couldn't even...

walk inside the house. Then it moved.

very much in line with his head.

I spent two months in bed and more than

It takes 9 months to walk normally again.

There was still a long way to go to

Back to running.

Anyone would stop cycling, wouldn't they?

would put so much at risk, even more

to do something subhuman, like

Climbing a mountain again, right?

[music]

>> [music]

[music]

[music]

>> Here I am again, it's that dream

as a child, but now is the time that

pragmatism takes over, planning the

acclimation cycles, prote, [music]

Right? So far it's been all hot. A

The actual execution begins now. [music]

This is my moment of concern. He's...

Hoping everything goes well, okay?

hoping he's prepared for the

Weather conditions must be favorable.

[music]

But it's that moment of apprehension.

This expedition is one that's having a

A slightly heavier burden for everyone.

Víor still admires her very much. Júlia continues.

having this admiration, but the awareness

It started to get a little more painful.

for her. [music] Daughter, I have

I'm sure everything will be alright, that's for sure.

Nothing will happen. Don't worry.

Trust in Dad, I don't know if I can.

then go to my room and cry. And,

but I try

at that moment show the mother [music]

I'm sure that's OK, everything's fine.

Come on.

[snoring]

>> Okay.

[music]

>> [music]

>> F

crossing through these screams.

That.

Craziness.

No.

Welcome to

I am exhausted

completely dehydrated

in that saga of training for Everest

The Seven Summits project was born.

winter, which is a project that is

Unprecedented in the world. Nobody ever

He climbed the seven winter summits. And he

It was born precisely in my first year.

Concagua,

>> During the winter, uh, there is no

rescue here in the park, so if something

If it goes wrong, we ourselves have to

solve the problem.

Climbing Aconcagua in winter is a

milestone in Brazilian mountaineering and in

Concagua itself, being, you know, the first,

perhaps to this day the only authorization of

park for rock climbing

Concago in winter. It had a character

quite extensive exploratory work, because

nobody knew how the park was

It behaved well in winter.

On the day of the summit attempt, I don't know.

What was the temperature? What did the thermometer...

It was showing below 30 [music]

negatives, almost only the little ball of

Mercury there.

Several people gave up and mine

The Roman was a double.

Let's move on to tomorrow.

But the coolest part is that [music]

We both gave up before we got there.

summit, but at different times. And

One was pushing the other, yet another

Just a little bit, more until then, until next time.

stone, until the next bend, until the

next climb. When we arrived at the

gutter, [music]

During the final part of the attack, he said: "Dude,

I'm very tired, I think for me

"It's over." I sat down and simply...

I gave up. The only thing I wanted was

Sit down and sleep.

This is how one dies in the mountains.

Death from hypoxia should be one of the

The sweetest deaths that exist. You don't

He's feeling more cold, not even pain.

My head is numb, nothing. It just starts to feel numb.

Then I got food, made him drink water and

Then he finally got up and we did

é ce.

We're arriving. Let's go.

Everyone in America, buddy.

>> Ah, partner, we're in the club.

>> A real life lesson, more than anything else.

It's real teamwork, isn't it?

dividing things can be much more...

profound and far more decisive than

that.

Thank you.

to my father who taught me to dream, to

[snoring] my mother who taught me to

to fulfill my dreams, to my brothers who

They always supported me, my wife and...

my daughter, who without the strength of love

If I had them, I would never be here. When I

I arrived home after three weeks.

all bearded and Julia, she doesn't me

recognized,

that of

>> for São Paulo, Barulhos and Lima,

boarding gate.

The biggest ordeal I've ever been through in my life.

Life was in Denalhe, which is the mountain.

tallest in North America, over there in

Alasca.

We arrived at the edge of the cumbi era

that gale of 100, 150, I don't know

how many kilos are we lifting?

on one edge, 1 km of wall this way, 2

km of wall to the other side, you in a

distance perhaps a little greater than

curb.

>> In this passage, the first person of

The rope went past him and then he tried to go back.

but he turned back against the wind and did not

He succeeded. He stayed there for about 15 or 20 minutes.

and there was a cloud formation, that

dark cloud, round [music], that

It looks like a distraction. If that cloud

We enter, we don't leave here. And we

It started to descend so fast, so

running, because the nest was sometimes

It was pulled and fell to the ground like that.

And the last person managed to put one in.

stake and lay down and held on and held on to the

The fall of the other two.

One little thing more that he/she might have had or

That could have been fatal, right?

So, on the same day we almost

He died three times.

>> Impossible. We went to practically

20 [music] m, 30 m from cum. Impossible

Staying there is very dangerous, very

Dangerous. With freezing hands and feet.

Freezing face. I don't think that's the way to do it.

This time, indeed.

Now is the time for accountability.

Thinking about the family, thinking about the little one

and return home.

And I decided to continue the Seven project.

Winter Comes, doing the others that

There were still some left. I went to Kilimandiaro.

Kilimandiaro was a mountain that I

I almost died. I almost died because of him.

Including, right? So he said:

"Damn, man, let's go up the

Climandiaro?" I said: "Come on, man,

Let's schedule something for next year, right? One

Something like that, no, next week.

"Damn it." I said, "Wow, next week."

I said, "Hey, why not?" Look who's here!

It's right behind us. Look at the big guy!

It's close.

Finally we managed to see something.

thing.

>> But it's not close.

When we got there, to our

The moment they sent it, it was there.

The Coca-Cola route that 98% of people...

They go to the mountain, they take that route, and she

It usually takes 7 to 8 days.

The peak of the moment for Roman was when

He knew that a route was closed.

For years it had just opened, I know.

there, months before we were there. Let's go.

for that route. I said: "But why that

"Was that route closed, Romão?" No,

because a lot of people die on that route

Lots and lots of rocks were falling on my head.

a lot of nonsense, so why do we

Are you going for it? Right? He said, "Dude,

But look, from what I've read here, none

Brazilian h went up through the and still

More so in the winter, right? Well, that's what...

Reason, man. And then I was like, okay, go into the

The wave is coming, and then I'll really go.

enter inside me and say:

"Wow, look at the mess I'm in!"

"Entering here."

But even so it was a [ __ ] of

experience. And from there to here we

He started doing a lot of things.

>> [snoring]

We decided, instead of spending Carnival

In Rio de Janeiro, we spend the

Carnival climbing the highest peak in Europe

In the Russian winter. A cold experience.

Very cold. Wind chill of -65°C.

Oh dear.

It's winter,

Let's do all of that.

Wow, I just went through another rough patch out of nowhere.

It was funny. Our first clash.

The moment was when we found

Our Russian guide. I had already climbed to

He climbed the mountain 250 times, but he never...

He had gone up in the winter. He said

Like this: "Dude, nobody can get this thing up here."

Not in winter, man. It gets less hot, I don't know.

How many degrees does it go up there, nobody climbs it.

"That mountain." Then I looked: "Damn,

Dude, right? What are we doing?

Here, right?

Bravo,

I went through hell here.

We have winds of 50 km/h.

Less than 45º.

Friendship where we go out to eat.

Pizza, beach to beach, that's one thing.

Friendship, man, my life is in it.

Your hand, I'm tied to you, very much.

Besides being a regular friendship, right?

>> [panting]

Sorry about that. [sighing]

[snoring]

You're feeling bad and then your friend comes and

kitchen for you to help put on a

a boot, put on a sock, because

when you're in the mountains, these

difficulties that seem minimal, they

They are gigantic.

>> The fellowship of the rope, the brotherhood of

Rope, right? You have your life and the life

their parts were intertwined by a rope.

Padal putting on makeup.

Kevin

Paul

down there.

That pedal laugh is too much. You're going

turn this into my ringtone,

tired.

It was the tension of crossing the waterfall.

two days after the collapse that she

He had it. Change rope, climb ladder, descend.

ladder, rappel

a butt in hand.

Okay, now I'm back at base camp.

I miss you so much, my darling.

Are you okay?

And how are things going at school?

With our friends? Are they having fun?

Programs? Today is Friday, timing

For the weekend. [snoring]

That's great, my dear.

>> I'm going to teach you how to drive. You already

Have you started learning?

After the accident, I, as a mother

Concerned about his safety, I

I thought to myself: "Well, there's one side to it."

"That's positive, he won't be climbing again."

I thought I was ready to start

to take the next step. I looked at

The result of my checkup was what I said: "Well,

Damn, a checkup the day before the accident.

"After all, it's better to make another one." And

when I had my checkup, we...

He came across a nodule that I had for

several years in the thyroid, which does not

It had manifested itself. It had grown.

more than 50% during that period of some

months, 5 years with nothing, in a few months

grew 50%.

And then you start doing tests, ultrasounds,

punctures, etc. There comes a time.

And I don't have cancer.

With the healthy lifestyle he has,

healthy eating, physical fitness and lifestyle

with all that energy in my life, I

I never imagined I would be surprised.

With that. So, it was [music] yet another

A fright, a very big fright.

>> And then he arrived and said: "I need to talk

"With you." Then I knew what it meant.

>> there. [music] That was the moment I saw

collapse.

[snoring]

Perhaps the greatest fortress I know,

What an attack!

And my father, who had lost a sister.

days [music] before, I'm with too

Cancer.

And I saw these great fortresses of my

family gnawing soon after it had been

Rebuilt, right?

That wasn't very easy. [music]

>> It was the first time he really didn't

He was in control, it didn't depend on him.

>> Shutdown on emotional [music], forget it,

solve what needs to be solved.

Which doctor should I see?

Come on, I want to talk to him.

[music]

>> As the saying goes, right? What doesn't kill you?

It strengthens.

So I think I resurfaced from there.

The family also re-emerged in a way that

A little more united, [music] stronger.

It's more like that little red flag that

says: [music] "Look, you're not

immortal".

He took it off.

Okay, let's start again.

>> [music]

We don't really get to choose what

It happens, we choose how...

people deal with [music] things later

about what happened. And I think he put

In his mind, he thinks he's going to win these...

obstacles to pursuing the biggest dream,

which at that point was Mount Everest.

The idea is to make this next cycle,

Hit field three, return, rest

A few more days here and then I'll go up to

attack the cumbe.

Approaching,

heart

It begins. [panting]

[cough] My stomach hurts. Ouch, that cough.

This cough needs to go away.

Roman contacted me, he came with this

a story that I'm not very happy and

That's because he wouldn't be able to go back to

running, playing sports with so much

ease, that [music] maybe

It would take a long time. And we started.

the treatment.

A pain that will help. And you have to

Make that clear to the person, because it will

It hurt a lot.

It wasn't very easy.

Because at the moment we started to

try to evolve, go through the whole process of

functional recovery for him to return to

running, he felt [music] a pain

very strong in the thigh. And every time the

People used to lengthen the bone, that spicule.

bony, it hurt there.

>> OK.

Tired.

That's when we decided he would have it.

needing to undergo another surgery.

And it began to evolve, because then it

He managed to stretch his leg, he managed

to start doing super moves again

functional.

[music]

And I remember that training sessions were like that.

1 hour, 1 hour and 30 minutes at most, and it would give a

At this point in training, the guy says:

"Dude, man, but the guy wanted more, man,

I'm going to have trouble with this guy. I'm going to have

The problem with this guy from the start,

because he's a guy who's been around for so long

In bed, right? And recovering, and now...

The guy wants to live.

>> Senora, calm down, [music], right?

Hold on a bit, I had to give a few...

braking, right?

He's a guy who likes to stretch the...

rope and then not everyone likes cars

I adapt really well to people like that.

good.

I tried to show him that we

I had to go step by step, winning.

a general physical resistance for

then we start doing some

more specific tasks. If in a

at a certain point we would pull a

A little further on, the rope could

to burst.

>> The training I was giving him, he always

I tried to tackle the most difficult ones.

>> [music]

>> When you're [playing music] at 7,000, you

On average, it contains 20% of the oxygen you need.

It would be at sea level. So you can imagine.

make an effort and you try to do the

things and you [music] can't. Then

You seem to be in all the time.

Slow motion.

You have to be fit [music]

physically to do the thing. But if

you don't want much, if you don't

if you really know why you're there, the

Your mental state, your emotional state, is more than

90%.

It was that crescendo [music] of

recovery, walking, walking without a limp,

To run, to run without limping, without pain. I

I only managed to run after a year and

in the middle of the accident.

>> I was always looking to the future, always looking ahead.

the next day, one day after another, and

to try to make everything the guy went through

a springboard for us to reach the new

goals, new achievements.

This one here is the tallest.

that I've already been there.

There's not even enough oxygen to talk, [snoring]

>> But I'm happy.

Let's go to field three.

>> Baby drink.

Let's go.

I'll read it. I'll read it.

I'll read it, man.

>> Ok.

Slow and steady wins the race.

>> Roman.

Nice job.

And then, when I was able to train without pain,

My friend Cleiton had an idea.

Why don't we tell your story?

history and puts a test, a one

challenge?

It's the first test after the

hit by a car.

Roman knows it won't be easy, but if

to be able to cross the finish line,

You can dream again of reaching the top of the mountain.

Everest. This race here was

This is a crossroads for me. This is a...

a test of the head, of the heart, of

body. The proof was a big

104 km ultramarathon starting in

Chile and ends in Argentina. And I...

I was wondering, damn, could I be...

Ready? Am I ready? I called.

For him, it's obvious, clear, partner,

[ __ ] Let's go, man. Let's start to

Training tomorrow. [laughs]

That's the spirit of romance, right?

>> Wanting to do something like that very much,

too big for a guy who's leaving

out of bed and already wants to touch the angels. It's

Go up, hill, go down hill.

Hey there, Roman.

Where do we get the [musical] strength from in this

Right now? Right here. Right here. [snoring]

We'll get there, partner.

And then we set this goal that

It became, in fact, the watershed moment.

Go back to the shipyard or you're ready.

The fact that I was an athlete was fundamental in

cure him, because he had [music]

health to withstand any

incident. And the response to these

People, music is always better.

7000

[music] notes

this day.

[music]

On the third day, the two of us made the journey.

upon arrival, he was still a little...

He was weak. He wasn't 100% Roman.

Physical, but definitely Roman 150%.

The mental state was already there.

The test was a check-in to go

finally reaching Everest in 2014.

Valanche is a business that we listen to.

We're here all the time. We start to...

get used to the sounds, but always

There's still a bit of that fear.

In 2014, an avalanche occurred, killing 16.

It got cold, more than 40 people, finally, it stopped.

all,

all expeditions.

Stop falling like that, old man. Так.

[snoring]

Eu

I heard a loud bang this morning, but man,

There was always an avalanche and a roar.

That's more, right? Nothing special.

When I left the tent, I realized that

Something serious had happened. Luckily

or intuition, we [music] came out a

a little later that day. If we

had he left at the normal time, it was

[music] for us to be in the middle of that

avalagem.

Two days have passed [music]

rescues, all the resources mobilized,

helicopters going up and down,

The children were sleeping, I woke up and...

Lots of messages on my phone.

[music] Everything's alright with Roman,

Did something happen? Then I said,

What happened? I started searching.

information and it is obvious that the first

The information I saw was that they had

Brazilians involved.

I would look at them sleeping and say

So: "What am I going to do with my life?"

now?"

And then Roma called saying that everything was fine.

Well, but I told him that in those

10, 15 minutes

I had the worst feeling of my life.

I never want to have that again.

sensation

and that frustrating feeling of looking, damn,

all these years, all this effort,

bed, three years that I had spent

to get there and I couldn't even give

Starting line. We're in a danger zone.

Those who are here know. Cumbo Waterfall is the

most dangerous area.

This is where the accident happened.

2014. You can see the amount of mass.

that fell from up there.

All of this here collapsed. It's better

Just pass by quickly here.

[sighing]

[panting]

Here on Everest, right? They're walls of

Ice. You walk in the middle as if you were...

walking in a labyrinth. A labyrinth of

Yes.

The stairs on those bridges. [music] It is

Very beautiful, isn't it?

dangerous history relates that but it's

also it's quite an adrenaline rush going

through there.

Nice

scary. Who.

What a crazy guy.

Imagine. I would never do a deal.

of that.

When are you going to stop doing this?

Girl? [laughs]

How could you let him do that?

Joe's children, Joe's children are

Crazy, you know? People treat them like...

if she were crazy, a

irresponsibility

when they find out he's a father. I talk to

I tell people, "This is a

What need does he have? I wouldn't know.

to live without it. If someone likes to stay

at home watching television, that would be

"Death to him."

I think the dangerous thing is for you to stay in

house and your life passing by and you looking

to turn back and say, "Wow, I stopped..."

to fulfill my dreams because I thought

that this was dangerous." I have some

criteria for saying, it's no longer worth it

the risk.

About turn.

The issue of risk, it's very...

different for an athlete than for

most of the population. So, we

It wasn't to Everest, I started climbing.

Today, tomorrow I want to go to Everest. A

People build a story, right? It's just that...

People found what we like.

to do.

It's actually difficult to understand, okay?

Today, as a wife and mother of...

children, even today more as a mother to

children, what a burden that remains

When he goes to a mountain, right? It is

I will always overcome something.

overcome it, but I'm going to do one.

planning, but I'll dream, let it pass.

This is going forward, and it's big and wide.

So how am I going to remove this?

His, right? I fell in love with that.

greatness.

The real religion is rock climbing.

There's an element of chest in it that

you're problem solving, but you're using

movement of your body for problem

solving. It's got yoga in it because of

all the movement. What you're also doing

is you're meditating. You're looking at

the scenery. The only other person who

would spend that much time looking the

scenery would be an artist, you know,

painting. You've got yoga, you've got

chest, you've got meditation. For me,

it's everything a religion needs. That's

my passion. That's what I love doing.

Oh,

There's air here. [sighing][panting]

There's air here.

Step.

Two deep breaths.

It's over there, look. Wind

>> in April 2015, after the earthquake of

Everest, where Roman was not, but

I was in Valanche the previous year.

everyone started sending messages

talking about it and saying: "Wow,

How can you still let him do that?

that?

I felt the need to defend,

You know, to defend his cause. And then I

I wrote:

"My humble opinion on the matter"

Climbing mountains. First of all, it's a

Passion is about overcoming challenges.

Some understand climbing as a

Soul rescue. The silence, the [music]

snow and the gods that protect the

The Himalayan mountains make that one

A sacred place for reflection.

As an old friend would say, to arrive at

The mountain summit is only half of

The journey. Coming back is the hardest part.

Important. Conquering a mountain is...

go through all the steps, from the

preparation of the equipment, [music] the

study of its history, of its risks,

of its mysteries. It is the choice of

partners. it's about thinking about each camp,

in every moment. It's the longing [music] for

family that helps to return and the choice

of the risk. As I said, this [song] is

My opinion. Not that I agree with it.

this passion that I don't really know

I'll explain, but I respect it.

I respect that, but it's quite difficult for...

me as a wife and mother. But I recognize that

When I met Roman, the flaw was already there.

It came from the factory. I think the gods

[music] are trying to teach some

things like respect for nature, respect

To the limits. It was two years [of music].

followed by dozens of moats in the mountains and

thousands in a place ravaged by

[music] poverty and dependent on that

circle. I respect everyone who

They died, to the true mountaineers,

to the friends [music] who are there with

health and to my husband, who despite me

guaranteeing lots of gray hair and wrinkles,

It taught me a little about these mysteries.

We completed the second cycle of

Acclimation, dude.

which is a super important step,

It means already climbing that waterfall.

[snoring]

four times, up, down.

I already know where I have to run, I already know.

Where I have to brake, I already know where I

I can dare, man. Finish this, I hit it.

72, man, that's the highest point in my life.

We have two in camp,

one in camp.

The lunch camp 3 is going to be snacks.

If we could have that sausage and fond

for camp 3, I think we done very well.

What about dinner?

From lotsy face to the summit and back

to the bottom of Lots face. It's not

like going through the ice here. You

can't we can single clip.

It's mandatory to double clip. That's

where you're going to have a bad

accident if you don't. So it's

absolutely mandatory to double clip. So

we leave it at the early 12. Yeah. 13

day 14 camp 3 15 to camp 4 15 night and

then hopefully and that's assuming that

there's no change to the forecast.

Breathe a bit.

When you breathe out, it should expand

and when you breathe in, it should

empty.

People may know him by many names.

things and one of them will be this

The practice of mountaineering. It's something he...

He attributed it to him.

>> Few people climb, so, like,

They might even admire him.

So, I'm in a phase right now, a

[music] absolute pragmatism of

execution,

suppressing all emotional aspects.

But in practice, that's it, it's been 20 years...

preparing to go to what's going

It will start happening in 12 hours.

[snoring]

[sighing]

There is a side

super

Oh, wow. Finally, there's a side to it.

extremely scared,

[sighing]

slightly apprehensive, nervous.

Oh, my brother, they're talking about 8000,

Right, man? We're talking about...

Everest. We're talking about 8850.

with the wind swirling in every direction.

[snoring]

Ultimately, things can always go wrong.

Ah.

Ah.

J

The tent is about to give out, now it's going to be a disaster.

outside.

>> [snoring]

It's not easy.

An oxygen tank has already fallen.

Then I spend all my time there.

horrors.

Guys, no winds

sounds perfect.

Let's go.

Be a long day.

Road

extremely

[snoring] dehydrated.

Leaf

>> [snoring]

I arrived

12 hours.

Logo played

Going down now.

>> [snoring]

Here on the balcony,

scaling to give

climbing

Maybe around 3 or 6 PM.

Four arrived.

fully

until I arrive safely at base

camp, it still has the waterfall. Today was a

very, very difficult descent, very

full of attention. Every step, the lot...

And it's not over yet.

Eh, tô me alimentando, tô me

Rehydrating, I'm here with a little one.

freezing on each cheek, fingers

a little bit, nothing, anyway, I'm all

[ __ ] but my brother, I'm back.

Most stressful, exhausting day,

exhausting

of my life.

There at C I was kind of nervous, kind of

Tense. Too many people, I didn't like it. I arrived.

Right now, I broke down crying.

My father, my mother, Anne,

my children,

family, my brothers,

I'm going home.

Sheets [music] are too hard for

Learning, right? I usually say that I sumit

It's only halfway, right? It started halfway.

[music] of the journey.

In an analogy, a marathon is kilometer 21. It has

21 up and 21 down.

So you might be searching for some extra

dimension to your life by climbing

mountains, but really what you're

searching for is right back where you

where you left

You did it, my brother.

[ __ ] I'll see you back here, man.

brother

How many times

22?

We don't know.

It's difficult for someone to try and then leave.

[music] to come back again, come back to

Mountain, you know? Look,

I keep hoping it ends.

with this project someday and settle down and

move on to other challenges, others

projects. That's my dream.

He just won't climb Everest.

Because there's no other option, man. If you

Put a rock up there, and he'll go.

What's next? Great story.

I have no idea, except that it will be.

A great story, too.

Perhaps the children don't understand very well.

It's like this now, but in the future, that story...

It will be very important for them. No.

simply climbing Everest. But what

What do you want from your life?

If he reaches the summit and returns to

home, the feeling that I imagine he

You will feel relief, a sense of duty.

accomplished, achieved

And then he goes to get another one.

>> [music]

[music]

Hey!

>> [music]

[music]

[music]

>> M.

The vast majority of people say: "Well,

Now you [music] have quieted down, haven't you? That's enough already.

nor?"

Everest was an important piece of

puzzle, even to test if it is the

That's what I really want [music].

This little bit that you're going to suffer through,

You know? Abstract it. Very cool. Then,

Man, this journey has been long, it has been.

It was big, it was difficult.

But I managed.