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[Music]
thank you
Mount Edgar at the edge of Tibet has
never been climbed by its dramatic
eastern wall the East face of Edgar is
very imposing it's scary looking for a
team of Alpine climbers it's the climb
of a lifetime it's not very many chances
you get to Pioneer a new route get an 8
000 foot face this is like the Lost
Temple of Doom but in this harsh
Vertical World
it's a Razor's Edge between Triumph and
tragedy there's nothing we can do
[Music]
Johnny Kopp and Micah Dash are one of
the top Alpine climbing teams in the
world
they specialize in establishing new
routes in the most extreme vertical
terrain they can find tackling a first
Ascent in the big mountains is the most
exciting type of climbing no man has set
foot here
it's just pure Adventure
the things that Johnny and I are trying
to climb these are remote unclimbed
Peaks
no barriers have really been broken and
you're there to break those barriers
once you're up high it's full commitment
climbing
ends up being pretty intense
cold night up here having climbed
mountains all over the world
Johnny and Micah are gearing up for
their biggest challenge yet
the unclimbed East face of Mount Edgar
near Tibet in western China
this particular Peak that we're going to
thinks about 6 800 meters the East face
of of Edgar is steep it's very imposing
we want to do something that's Cutting
Edge that challenges us to the core
doing a first Ascent on a face like this
would be one of the bigger
accomplishments I've done in in Alpine
climbing for sure
for a trip of this scale the process of
planning just doing the research on this
very remote area is a daunting task
and it starts a year in advance
how you doing Mike good Johnny yeah
we'll see you guys again we do just
extensive research on trying to find
these areas that are the most remote
this could be the Holy Grail of first
descent to be done in the next few
decades and I'm excited to be able to go
over there with Johnny and uh and and
check this region out
I basically have a photo on my desktop
of this peak that we're going to climb
and it's been there for a year and so
all of my training and all of my
climbing is driven towards this one
Focus you have to be at the peak of your
game to climb in this style on the
world's biggest objectives if you're not
fit you're going home we've been doing
this thing called Mountain athlete
pretty exhausting strong Johnny
come on get it honey or a drill sergeant
she's brutal on us come on
come on she's like the Mussolini of
training oh my God [ __ ] okay right into
the push press basically kicking our ass
into the ground making sure that we're
as hard to kill as we could possibly be
in the mountains yeah Micah I want to
know that when I'm up there the last
thing I'm thinking about is am I fit
enough good job fight for it
you have this this image in your head
it's kind of like this thing floating in
the clouds come on Johnny good job and
you're shooting for that and you're
working towards it so it really inspires
all the small parts of the process good
Micah
[Music]
oh my God
I want to feel strong
I want to feel powerful I want to be as
fit as I've ever been my entire life
and of course the training is is always
ongoing and that's you know climbing ice
[Music]
no matter how cold we are no matter how
tired we are Johnny is Rip rearing ready
to go yeah
his strength shine when it's the worst
it can possibly be out
foreign
and that's a great thing to have in a
partner
that's fun Micah just got done with a
really wet waterfall fish it looked
horrendous uh
cold now Mikey Dash is hilarious he can
be scared and cracking jokes at the same
time
that's what's really great about
climbing with him before nyama is bigger
than this baby spot
made it yeah we're so psyched
so we've been planning this trip to
Tibet with Johnny and Micah for a long
time and there was never any doubt that
we were going to send Wade Johnson as
the cameraman on this Expedition
he's really strong great cinematographer
he's shot with Johnny and Mike a lot in
the past
those guys really love each other
morning wood what is the kind of guy you
want to have out there in the mountains
what do you say wade
full body climbing
[Music]
Johnny Mica and Wade all of us hail from
this super tight community of climbers
in Boulder
we're like a family
we shared Expeditions together
we shared this vision of climbing
we party together
every year somebody out of the family
it's their turn to get to go on a big
trip and a big Expedition and everybody
else kind of gets lived vicariously
trip to Johnny Mike and wait are going
on is huge I mean it's it's a trip of a
lifetime the first time I saw a photo of
Johnny and Micah's objective I was like
whoa
this East face of Edgar has a lot of
snow and ice on it a high degree of
instability you're definitely putting
your neck out there and there's not a
whole lot of margin for error I don't
really know of anybody having been in
here this is a scary place where we're
going
a lot of folks have have been asking us
how you know are you scared or something
are you worried about it
no I mean every single time I throw
something else into that duffel I'm just
like super psyched
you know I've been through enough
situations in big mountains and walls
that I feel like I can get myself out of
anything that I get myself into
I know that's probably not the case but
that's how it feels leaving home is
always sad it's a it's emotional I'm
leaving you know my girlfriend these are
my gloves so I'm leaving my life in
Colorado to go do something that's
that's dangerous
it's always a bit of a strain
but it's part of the program
[Music]
saying goodbye to Johnny's emotional
[Music]
but it's more exciting I think than
anything else
[Music]
[Music]
[Applause]
cool
we're way out here it's pretty exciting
but right on the border of China and
Tibet
you can tell that they don't see
westerners at all up here
we don't even know
how we're going to get to the base of
this climb
or anything else
we have to kind of figure out how to get
the porters together and get the
equipment together to get it up high
enough it's a really bad map
[Music]
thank you
[Music]
[Music]
foreign
the peak is really really big
scary there's a lot of uh potential
objective hazards Xerox like hanging ice
walls that we don't want to be climbing
under because they can fall off I've
been on a lot of expeditions with Johnny
and I've never heard him refer to
something as being scared
even from a great distance is uh
frightening but also really exciting
but as the Team Heads Up The Gorge
drawing closer to their objective the
mountains dangers begin to reveal
themselves these Rock slides are fresh
you can see that one that just came down
probably
large Boulders embedded in a matrix of
wet sand are ever threatening to unleash
going up the gorge is like running gone
yeah let's get the hell out of here
water this is scary right here yeah I
just want to make sure we don't endanger
anyone's life
trying to get up there and scout out
base camp needs to be safe so we can't
be underneath loose Rock areas or
Avalanche Terrain
basically we found the only flat-ish
place in miles to establish our base
camp
over 10 000 feet from the summit of
Mount Edgar
it's a long ways to the top
with the porters gone
the team is alone on the mountain
waiting for the weather to clear what
are you doing Wade
he's trying to use the power of the sun
charger batteries on
there may not work right now
[Music]
it's not in my nature to be patient nor
still and everybody's just kind of
forced to sit at the same spot until we
get weather
gets a little aggravating for sure go
ahead all right I'm thinking about what
I want to say well he's [ __ ] rolling
well he's gonna have to wait
I don't think Mike and I will get along
the whole trip Micah can you look less
bored like you're you're listening to
Johnny he's being an [ __ ] we can't do
this interview now but what we do really
well is uh forgive each other
[Laughter]
[Music]
okay let's put it on autofocus for you
so
you don't have to think
all right wait tell us what do you think
so far
I think I wish we had better weather
right now but it's been it's been good
we're gonna
oh
first clouds away
so it is May 14th we've been in base
camp 14 days 5 39 A.M
after weeks of waiting the weather
finally allows the team to head upwards
they still have 5 000 feet before they
get to the base of the route where they
will Begin The Climb
now that we're above base camp and below
the main face that we want to climb we
really just need a hole in the clouds to
find our route
you can barely see Micah over there it's
kind of scary to walk that way with zero
visibility because I can't see the sorax
it's gonna be a lot of loose training in
there
I think the visibility is about 20 feet
you've got to find this Channel today
not sure where we are
[Music]
holy [ __ ] let's go it's clearing
holy smokes
yeah that's so sick dude this is a sick
place
wow look at the face
this is the first time anyone's ever
seen this
this was like the Lost Temple of Doom
[Music]
s
what we're trying to do now is picking a
route that actually allows us to get to
some good ice being a safe position and
also be able to get down
parts of the mountain are plastered in
snow which might be unconsolidated
trying to find a really the only safe
and possible line up this thing
the team hikes higher up the mountain
for a closer look at their potential
route
you're always hearing something falling
some ice falling off the sun its rocks
a boulder Crashing Down
yeah
it's a scary place to be for a long time
when the walls seem to be falling apart
is horrifying it's like a haunted house
up there as the heat of the day loosens
up the terrain above
they find themselves trapped beneath
major rockfall coming from up there
right here
holy [ __ ] [ __ ]
[ __ ] there's nothing we can do we gotta
stay here I see it coming
you see it yeah
holy [ __ ]
oh my God
[ __ ]
oh my God
[Music]
some of them came close yeah they did
[Music]
rattled by the unpredictable dangers
above
the team leaves their gear in a safe
accessible place
hoping that conditions improve enough
for them to return and climb
for now they descend to base camp to
reassess their options
this unstable deadly mount
[Music]
trying all day to find a freaking line
up that wall
we trained we plotted we flew here we
hiked in and now is this going to be a
total wash are we just going to spend 28
days not climbing anything
the hard part is knowing if it really is
a shutdown there can be doubt that just
filters into every freaking move
all right
Johnny and I both have been caught in
pretty bad situations
so we're cautious we know what can
happen and we don't want it to here
[Music]
I've been in two Avalanches personally
I don't want to get caught in another
Avalanche
we've had a couple times in this trip
where where we've just looked at each
other and thought I don't know I don't
know where we're going to go from here
we're pretty much sealed out from this
East face of Mount Edgar
you know we don't want a 50 50 chance of
dying that's definitely not a manageable
number
here in base camp these massive Boulders
came down compact car size Boulders
listening to all this massive Rock fall
come down
oh man we got [ __ ] fried I didn't
sleep good last night either
seems that the east facing Mount Edgar
didn't want us to climb it right now
very much at least not without more risk
then we're willing to put out with
conditions deteriorating
they make the painful decision to give
up on climbing Mount Edgar
abandoning their long-held dream
well I want to keep doing these things
and I want to keep pushing myself harder
and harder and harder
but just this knowing that you're not
Invincible that you're knowing that [ __ ]
can happen I'm really excited to get
after it and be here in the mountains
and climb something
um but we need to be safe
hopefully we can get our gear back
on the morning of May 20th
Johnny cop Micah Dash and cameraman Wade
Johnson hike up the gullies to retrieve
their gear and perhaps get a day of
climbing on a smaller objective
they leave in the cold early morning to
minimize the risk of rockfall and
avalanches any last minute supplies are
forgetting no let's go
three American climbers missing in China
three men were last heard from May 20th
at the base camp of Mount Edgar they had
hoped to reach the peak of nearly 25 000
feet above sea level
so it's been snowing every day
something's very wrong Dewey Wade should
have come down by now there's just no
reason he shouldn't have come down
unless something is very very wrong when
these guys were late reporting and from
China that's when the alarm Bells went
off because those guys came down we
quickly put together a search and rescue
effort
climbers from here in Boulder friends of
Johnny and Micah and Wade who were
volunteering to go over there to China
when we first heard that those guys were
missing we knew we were going to China
they're they're our family
we were going there to try to bring our
friends home but by the time the
rescuers were able to make it to China
terrible news had already arrived
for approximately an hour or so out of a
base camp and if you look here there's a
ski pool sticking out of the snow
looks like they were going up
got memory cards from this camera
in the early morning hours of May 20th
as the team hikes up to their Advanced
Camp to retrieve their gear and go home
massive Avalanche Cuts loose high above
them
devastating everything in its path
[Music]
Micah Johnny and Wade are killed
instantly
[Music]
we were able to recover Johnny and
Wade's body unfortunately Micah's body
was never found Micah you know he lived
his life for for that kind of mountain
he's there forever now
we had a farewell ceremony this Band of
Brothers that went over there to bring
their friends home
this one's just us and the boys we all
got some special special things
[Music]
symbol of the continuation of Life
Micah's name means strength and courage
Johnny I love you like a brother Wade
Johnson
just an amazing human being
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
so what we're going to do is we're going
to have a moment of exuberant screaming
frenzy screaming and clapping can you do
this for me people
[Applause]
oh man
but today I say goodbye
[Music]
tell me
[Music]
and to stay and then to go
tornadoes in the snow they blow you away
[Music]
I'm already
[Music]
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