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and we're
off I'm treading
lightly my toes are kind of
hurting slightly more pumped than I
would have
liked which is one of the classic ways
to yourself when you're soing
when you're on a quest to redefine
what's humanly possible the line between
Triumph and tragedy is Razor thin I'm
Jimmy chin from Mount Everest to
Antarctica I've had the privilege of
sharing Adventures alongside the world's
most daring
athletes in the pivotal moments when
life hangs in the
balance what drives the greatest
to keep pushing to stare down
fear to risk
everything these are the stories from
the edge of the
unknown to be on the side of a cliff
without a
rope totally untethered you know
free feels pretty freaking next level
free soling is the ultimate test of
climbing that's when it's all on the
line and that's the challenge of doing
something that hasn't been done before
is how do you know that you're
ready I've known Alex hanold for years
he's climbed the biggest walls on the
planet without a
rope pushing the limits of what's
possible
I was there when he free soloed the 3000
ft ALC Capitan in Yus Valley
California this was a climb so
futuristic and Visionary that not even
the top climbers in the world were
daring to think about
it how does someone prepare to do the
impossible I had been dreaming of free
selling OAB forever the psychological
challenge felt so vast
and if you feel really scared thinking
about it then you're you're probably not
prepared
enough I felt that Morocco would be a
perfect practice ground to get one step
closer to freeing
alab Morocco it's off the map no one
would know about it this was a place
where he could test himself both
physically and mentally with a massive
amount of climbing and then he wanted to
free solo one of the big walls at the
end of the trip he knew that the route
that he' chosen would be one of the
greatest big wall free solos in
history I can't wait to S all this stuff
I'm so curious if we can actually make
these walls feel smaller you know
yeah there's baby goats halfway up the
first pitch that's really
cute Tommy was really the only possible
partner for the training that I was
hoping to do in
Morocco we would it's like to climb with
somebody who climbs so fast like so
amazing Tommy is one of the best
climbers in the world when I started
climbing he was already a hero in the
climbing world and I looked up to him my
entire
life I think Alex and I just felt like
if we got together and climbed we could
do stuff that we couldn't do on our own
and from there it evolved into this very
close friendship we're only going to
bring five long and so knowing that he
had this giant objective my role just
became to help him survive essentially
yeah it was one of the on left Tommy
didn't want Alex to free solo but he
knew that Alex was going to go do it
anyways so Tommy decides that the best
way that he can support his friend is to
train with
him doing something that dangerous is
really about having full confidence that
you will be successful
Alex wanted to push himself with a huge
endurance
challenge a triple link
up to climb three of the biggest walls
in tajio with Tommy in one
day it would be the equivalent of
running three back-to-back
marathons at a world record pace so
what's your guess on time 22 hours 22 I
think like 5:00 a.m. top out that means
that we'd be doing 21h hour link up
that's my
prediction all right let's see who's
Clos
this okay La good to
go these big walls are extraordinarily
technical this is 512 513 terrain a
rating of difficulty that really only a
world class climber can climb remember
of not really loving this
pitch I don't remember this pitch hardly
at
all my finger slipped but it was a hard
move the hardest move on the RO
I knew Alex was going to free solo one
of the roots we were climbing
together thinking about being up there
that high off the ground without a rope
that's a terrifying
thought there we
go nice
dude so fun climbing like that pretty
solid it did six and a
half it's pretty sick to think that
Tommy's about to climb all the way past
the shade up there in this first block
like look how freaking far that
is oh Skin's a little more tender than
the last stre it's much harder to climb
sharp limestone in full
sunlight your fingers are sweating more
which makes your skin softer which makes
the rock cut your skin
more we had to climb very
delicately make sure we grabbed these
razor sharp holds and pulled on them as
little as
possible and you're also trying to stand
on these tiny little edges very precise
small movements with your
feet the rubber gets really hot and it
basically Cooks your
feet it's just hard to cover these guys
cuz basically they're the fastest guys
in the world on this Terrain
you might have worn out the film
crew you might get a day without a film
crew then be awesome okay let's go climb
Another
Mountain oh yeah more the Sun going away
is a welcome reprieve where you're like
oh thank God we're not getting cooked
anymore but the hard part in the dark is
navigating
you never quite know if you're going the
right direction I'm to my foot is
totally numb right here that's that's
what I was saying oh I really want this
route to go easily and
quickly yeah all right
dude wa for the next lap
huh when you're pretty exhausted and
it's
dark it's easy to start making some
mistakes
hey guys I see
them they're already like up
there we were many many hours into a
link
up it was dark and we were quite
tired your headlamp illuminates like a
10t bubble around you so that's your
entire world and you just exist in that
10ft bubble
in some ways that can actually be sort
of
centering but you still have to be able
to find the
route yeah oh oh man I'm getting the
like release in my feet after taking off
my
shoes that was a lot of rock
climbing I can care at the end of the
triple we were both
exhausted and then I was planning on
spending one more week so that I could
do a big solo
project I don't free solo at all this is
what it is I'm willing to do things that
I might like end up you know pretty
maimed but I really really try and stay
away from things that where I'm just
going to totally
Splat it's pretty like thin distinction
it's all very loose honestly but I
absolutely understand the appeal of it
like emotionally that's how I feel
logically I'm like I should never do
that yeah maybe you got to just go with
the emotion sometime I'm just go do
it those are the things where I'm like
as a father I can't do that you know
it's got to be logic not emotion you
think
yeah looking back on Morocco there's
just this level of angst and
turmoil I felt like I should be training
harder I should be climbing more I
should be doing more you know because I
had this huge goal in front of me and I
was just like I just didn't know if I
was ready and felt like I should be
doing more doing
[Music]
more my next challenge was to free sell
re
pre to a lay person they look at a big
wall and they're like that looks insane
they assume that I just walk up to a
cliff and just climb it with no you know
planning no path no no anything but the
reality is couldn't be further from the
truth a lot of people think Alex is a
free
soloist he must throw risk to the wind
he doesn't
care but actually he's one of the most
calculated people I
know everything that he does it's so
methodical and
intentional how long have you been on M
how long may going to be on the mountain
mhm I know hopefully less than 4 hours
oh really okay so like on the 1500t
route basically like 40 ft of climbing
scattered throughout different sections
that I want to figure out
okay watching Alex prepare is hugely
inspiring he's meticulous about how he
approaches
it it's about the climbing and it's
about managing the fear it's about
struggling with doubt to do something
that's never been done before
it's not always obvious which parts will
be easy or hard when you take the Rope
away so I practice the route with a
little bit more intentional mind towards
the free
solo to spend some time thinking about
what will actually be scary or
not the Crux pitch of rier propre was
the hardest
part it's about 1,000 ft off the ground
and when I had first climbed this route
I had fallen off that pit
that it's pretty steep kind of small
holes in big
reaches I was concerned about that
pitch Le Rivier pu in Morocco would be
considered one of the greatest free
solos in
history and I think when you have a
superpower it's really hard not to use
it but it was
Heavy the route requires Precision
climbing one mistake and he
dies I remember Alex and Tommy saying
goodbye to each
other and I could see it in in Tommy's
face the hug might have been a little
bit longer and you know it's one of
those goodbyes that
was knowing that you know Tommy might
never see Alex again
it doesn't feel good to make your
friends and family worry about you which
is why most of my freeing is normally in
private so that you don't put that
burden on anybody
else it felt very different than most
free
solos cameras made it slightly harder
but I also knew that was a good way to
prepare myself for harder things down
the
road shooting a big wallfree solo was
terrifying you know we spent days
rigging on the route trying to imagine
someone climbing it without a rope would
made us very
nervous I definitely feel fear I mean if
I didn't feel fear I wouldn't have to do
all the prep work I would just go up and
do the
route the correct way to manage fear I
think is to gradually broaden your
comfort
zone until your com Zone includes things
that seemed previously
impossible I'm shreding
lightly some climers remember like every
movement of every route I'm definitely
not gifted like
that I knew the hardest parts pretty
well but the rest of it was all a bit of
a question
mark slightly more pumped than I would
have
liked a lot of the lower climbing I was
thinking about it as I did
it like do I grab this one or is this
secure is it that foot or this other
foot should I try a different
foot I got my finger stuck in one of the
pockets which is one of the classic ways
to yourself when you're
soling in retrospect maybe I could have
given it another day or two of prep work
[Music]
I'm slightly over gripping like I'm
holding on too tightly which is why my
feet are sort of tense when I move
them I don't place them smoothly and
quietly I'm like moving sort of Helter
Skelter do you hear that it's off to the
left sounds exactly like someone is
yelling Alex over and
over they're like climbing behind me
highliners on the other side so I can
sand be up here normally when you're
freeing you're totally alone in some
incredible environment but as I was
freeing I kept hearing this weird
yelling it was just this crazy french
guy dangling from a tight RPP in the
middle of the canyon and he kept yelling
at himself like Al
Al oh the guy just whipped
holy
huh and then he would fall off and then
he would bounce on the Rope and then you
try to get back up and then you fall off
and I remember that it made the whole
thing feel a little bit more like a
circus in this case with most climbers
with ropes the whole point is to fail
over and over and over until you
eventually succeed in something uh but
you know with free sing projects that's
totally off the table you have to make
sure you never fail and just do the
thing that you're trying to do first try
just got to climb one more
pitch when I get into the difficult
climbing like doesn't matter what's
going on around me I'm just
[Music]
climbing which really is part of the
appeal of free Solen you know it's that
level of
focus the Crux pitch of rier pre is just
this overhanging panel up high on the
wall it's more fatiguing than the other
pitches because the angle kicks
back and because it's steep fatigue
builds as you climb it your arms start
to get quite tired as you
go but that's why Tommy and I had done
the triple ahead of time to
prepare I knew that my fitness was high
enough that it wouldn't matter that the
hard part was at the top
[Music]
oh
yeah I got myself like a like a B minus
like an8 out of 10 I
guess so it wasn't your Fest
S
no no
but you know that's just part of
it sometimes you just got to be able to
perform I remember thinking he looked
noticeably
disappointed he wasn't happy with the
fact that he felt scared on the route
and he felt jittery not
smooth and he knew that that would not
work on El Cap but getting used to
having a film crew shooting him on a
long climb like that helped prepare his
mindset for when we were shooting on Al
cat well shall we do another
one he's got the post solo glow he does
whatever you could say about today you
definitely still have the post solo glow
you did just climb a 512 big wall
without a rope compared to Al cap the
preparation that I put in for reier p
was pretty minimal you know I climbed it
a couple times and then I did one day of
direct
preparation whereas with elcap I spent
18 months or so practicing for the
solo when I left Morocco I was in the
the best shape of my
life I just done each of the hard
challenges that I had set for myself so
like confidence was high when I was
showing up in e in the best possible
shape
he's moving
fast I mean that's like one of the most
exposed moves like anyone
cap Alex is having the best day of his
life oh god
wow oh my goodness oh my God I can't
believe what I just
witnessed oh God
oh oh good to see you
again Alex's free solo LEL cap will go
down as the greatest rock climbing
accomplishment in history what a journey
yeah this was a generation defining
climb the moon landing of
climbing the reality is that I likely
we'll never work on anything to that
scale again just because I don't know if
any specific climb will ever mean as
much to me as as elap
did whether or not that will eventually
translate into not sing as much I don't
know I don't
know we'll see if I even want to because
I've solid a lot like I've Sol like
almost anything I care
about Alex's ability to manage fear and
to free solo the biggest walls in the
world is truly remarkable but what
inspires me the most is is the intention
and purpose that he brings to his
life he pushes us to all ask
ourselves are we living the life that we
want to
live when you're standing beneath a big
wall and you're about to climb it
without a rope it's hard to match that
kind of
intensity something tells me parenting
will be a much bigger and more
meaningful experience long
term but hopefully it's not going to be
quite as scary
[Music]
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