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This white wilderness, this
emptiness is the North Pole. I'm
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standing in the middle of a
frozen ocean. Beneath my feet
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and for over 500 miles in
every direction there are several
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meters of ice. But something
significant is likely to happen
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here at the North Pole soon.
Chances are that sometime
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within the next few decades,
perhaps even as soon as 2020,
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there will be open water here for the
first time in human recorded history.
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The Arctic and Antarctic are
changing. Enormous masses
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of ice that have been frozen
for thousands of years are
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breaking apart and melting away.
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Ice scientists are going to
extremes to find out exactly
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what's going on. For them,
these are exciting times. But the
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transformation that's being seen here will
be felt far beyond the polar wilderness.
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In this program, I'll be trying
to understand what these
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changes mean not just to
the wildlife and people that live
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around the poles, but to the whole planet.
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I'm starting my journey in the
Arctic, the far north of our planet.
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It's still very cold outside by
most people's standards, but
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the Arctic has been warming
fast, twice as fast as the rest
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of our planet. My first
mission is to find out what effect
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that's having on the animals,
although first we have to find
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them. It's April in Svalbard.
We're a thousand miles north
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the Arctic Circle in search
of the region's top predator.
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We need to travel away from the
land and out over the frozen sea.
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Over there.
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I'm with a Norwegian
team which is giving the
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polar bears of Svalbard
their yearly health check.
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She's under us now.
Come round for a clean shot.
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The team works together to
give an anesthetic injection from
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a dart gun without hurting
the bear. It takes tremendous
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skill.
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Nobody likes to see a
magnificent animal like a polar bear
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lolling about unconscious
on the ice, but it's only by
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darting them in this way and
keeping check on them year
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after year that we can be
sure that we know what is
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happening to them and the
population of polar bears as a
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whole. Over the last 30 years,
many teams have been seeing
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the condition of their
local bears deteriorate,
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although not every
bear is suffering.
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How much? 96 here. And 102
here. 197. Is that good? It's not
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too bad. It's a bit above our
reach, so she's a bear in a
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good condition for Svalbard
to be. The trouble is that if
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this was underweight, she
would be in trouble, not only from
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our own point of view,
but from the point of view of
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our cubs, because an
underweight female gives birth to
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underweight cubs and
underweight cubs have a great
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problem of surviving their
difficult first year in these
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circumstances. It can be minus
40 degrees centigrade when
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polar bear cubs emerge at
the start of the Arctic spring
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from their dens where they were born.
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This mother hasn't eaten for
half a year. She and her cubs
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need to fatten up fast over
the next few months and their
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chances of survival depend on
what's happening beneath their feet.
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These polar bears aren't
walking on land. They're
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roaming across the
frozen surface of the sea.
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And the bear's food lives under the ice.
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Ring seals are hunted by
polar bears. In fact, in some
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parts polar bears eat almost
nothing else, so it's fairly
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understandable that this
little mother ring seal is
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looking at me now. She
should be a little apprehensive.
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That pup of hers is only
about three or four days old and
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the pup won't be able to swim
for another two or three days.
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Seals have good reason to
be nervous around their holes.
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They need the holes to breathe
when the sea is frozen, but
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this makes them easy to find.
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Polar bears can sniff out seal
holes even if they're covered in snow.
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Spring is the best hunting season.
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This mother's found a food
store under the snow that was
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probably made by an Arctic
fox. It's a time of plenty now,
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but the bear family need
to make the best of it
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because the good times
are about to come to an end.
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As the weather warms, the
ice beneath the bear's feet starts
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to break up and then melt.
And as the ice dwindles, so do
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the bear's chances of a successful hunt.
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Most of the ice is
lost over the shallow
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coastal waters where
most of the seals live.
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It's now summer and these
bears have a choice. Take their
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chances on the shrinking ice
floes or make for the safety of
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the land.
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It's a case of sink or swim.
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Bears have always gone hungry
in the summer, but the length
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of time when there's enough
ice for them to go hunting is
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getting shorter and shorter
across much of the Arctic.
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This is hitting cubs particularly
hard because they can't
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survive for as long without
feeding as their mother. Cubs
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that were born underweight
are at the greatest risk.
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This mother and her cubs may
well not get another chance at
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hunting, but they do have a
meal until the sea freezes again
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in winter. There's not much
to eat on land and the fact is
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that the longer the cubs have
to wait until the ice returns,
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the more likely they are to die.
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Longer summers with no
ice are probably the main
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reason why many polar
bear populations are dropping.
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To help monitor bears
into the future, this female is
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being fitted with a radio
collar to track her movements.
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It's an extraordinary sensation
to be so close to such a
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powerful animal with luck
carrying that collar. She will
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have more years to go yet
and be telling us a great deal
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about herself and the rest
of the race of polar bears as
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they face this very uncertain future.
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The future of the ice cover
on the sea isn't just an issue
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for the animals. It's a big
concern for the people who live
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in the Arctic and travel
across the ice every day.
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David Ikakwalu is an Inuit from the village
of Clyde River in the Canadian Far North.
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There are very few roads up
here so David and his community
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like most Inuit people have
always traveled across the
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frozen sea.
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00:11:33,640 --> 00:11:36,996
Dog sleds are the safest
way to get around because the
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dogs feel thin ice underfoot
and won't lead travelers into
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trouble.
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Old timers like David know the ice as we
know the streets in our local neighborhood.
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Every spring cracks have
always formed in the same places
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at the same time. It's going
to be big very soon after two
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weeks maybe. We'll be
more open. But now cracks are
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appearing where they never
did before so David and his
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friend Laimiki have taken
on a new job. They are using
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special GPS units to record
the position of new cracks or
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weak ice.
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These findings will be used
by locals for their own safety
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00:12:31,151 --> 00:12:34,760
but they're also being studied
by ice scientists who want to
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predict how the ice will
change in years to come.
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The Inuit are keen to know
what the future holds too because
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they've seen with their own
eyes the changes that the
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scientists have seen from
space. This satellite photo from
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1980 shows the Arctic Ocean
at the end of the summer when
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ice cover is at its minimum.
Since then there's been a 30%
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drop in the area covered by
ice. But these images can't tell
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us about changes to the most
important factor, the thickness of the ice.
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Measuring thickness across
the whole ocean was beyond
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scientists for many years until
help came from an unexpected
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source.
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The Arctic Ocean is of huge
military importance as it's
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the shortest route between
North America and Russia.
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00:14:01,820 --> 00:14:05,018
Since the late 1950s,
British, US and Russian
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submarines have been
patrolling the Arctic Ocean.
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00:14:11,680 --> 00:14:15,006
But as well as looking out
for enemy activity, they've
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also been measuring the
thickness of the ice, critical when
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00:14:18,660 --> 00:14:20,240
looking for a place to surface.
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00:14:23,980 --> 00:14:26,911
When scientists got permission
to look at the submarine
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crew's records, they
discovered that the ice has been
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thinning fast. In fact, it's nearly
halved in thickness since 1980.
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00:14:39,460 --> 00:14:44,020
Across most of the Arctic Ocean there
are now just a couple of meters of ice.
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It's so thin that it could melt
away almost entirely in the
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summertime and that includes
the ice at the North Pole. If
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current trends continue then
there will be an open ocean
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here by summer's end sometime
within the next few decades.
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So the days of the Arctic
Ocean being covered by a
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continuous sheet of ice seem
to be past. Whether or not
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that's a good or bad thing, of
course, depends on your point of view.
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00:15:22,840 --> 00:15:25,856
Nobody has had a better
view of the changes to the Arctic
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Ocean than the people of
Barrow, the most northerly town in
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Alaska. The people here have
always survived by hunting on
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the frozen sea and they
celebrate this at a festival every
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year. The blanket toss was
once the best way to spot distant
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animals to hunt, as lifelong
resident Lewis Brower explains.
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When we throw ourselves up
into the blanket, you know, you
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get that much more of an
awe of seeing further and further
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out. So sometimes you'll
jump 15, 20 feet in the air and
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00:15:56,333 --> 00:15:59,700
hopefully you're being caught
right back into the blanket.
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But the old way of life is
under threat. When Lewis was
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young the sea stayed frozen
to the horizon until July and
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some ice remained offshore
all summer. But now it's breaking
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up in June and melting away
completely for two or three
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00:16:20,880 --> 00:16:25,548
months. I used to go out on
the ice all the time this time
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of the year but we can't do
that anymore because there's no
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more no more ice. Lewis can
also see that the loss of sea
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ice is affecting the animals
he hunts for a living. Since
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2007 something very
strange has been happening
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00:16:44,765 --> 00:16:48,120
on the stretch of
coastline close to Barrow.
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Mother walruses, confused
by the lack of ice, are crowding
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onto the land with their
pups. This very tight crowding
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isn't normal and it's caused many
youngsters to be crushed to death.
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Many Arctic animals are
threatened by the changing
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conditions and that's also
bad news for the traditional
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hunters. But the ice loss could
be good news for some people.
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There are trillions of dollars
worth of oil and gas under
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the Arctic Ocean but the only
way to get to them until now
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has been by building expensive
artificial islands like this.
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00:17:34,685 --> 00:17:38,860
But if the sea ice goes it
will be much easier to drill for
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00:17:38,860 --> 00:17:42,340
the huge riches below so
the countries that surround
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00:17:42,352 --> 00:17:45,580
the Arctic are scrambling
to stake their claims.
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This daring attempt by the
Russians to claim the disputed
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seabed at the North Pole in
2007 caused fury among the
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00:18:05,500 --> 00:18:09,200
competing countries and it's
unlikely to be the last such dispute.
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00:18:11,940 --> 00:18:16,660
The Arctic has never been so important
and not just because of its resources.
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00:18:20,000 --> 00:18:23,097
The Northwest Passage, a
legendary sea route around the
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00:18:23,109 --> 00:18:26,440
north of Canada and Alaska,
cleared of ice in the summer of
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00:18:26,440 --> 00:18:31,177
2007 for the first time since
records began. This promises a
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00:18:31,189 --> 00:18:35,860
much faster and cheaper
shipping route between the Atlantic
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and Pacific Oceans.
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00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:44,980
And some wildlife could
benefit from an ice-free Arctic too.
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00:18:50,660 --> 00:18:54,078
Bowhead whales are one of
just a few whales that can live
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year-round in the Arctic
because they have no dorsal fin.
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00:18:59,380 --> 00:19:03,934
This means they can come
up for air in small spaces and
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00:19:03,946 --> 00:19:08,920
travel easily under the ice.
Their unique body shape used to
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00:19:08,920 --> 00:19:12,650
mean that the Arctic whales
have the seas to themselves for
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00:19:12,662 --> 00:19:16,280
most of the year but now some
cousins from down south are
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00:19:16,280 --> 00:19:16,860
moving in.
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00:19:24,280 --> 00:19:27,827
Killer whales are now a
much more common sight in the
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Arctic. Their tall fins make
it difficult for them to travel
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00:19:31,860 --> 00:19:35,429
under ice but the longer summers
mean they can travel much
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00:19:35,441 --> 00:19:38,900
farther north and make the
most of the rich Arctic seas.
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00:19:46,860 --> 00:19:49,683
For animals and people,
it will be those who
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00:19:49,695 --> 00:19:52,720
can adapt who will
thrive in a changing Arctic.
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00:20:01,380 --> 00:20:04,734
But the loss of sea ice isn't
just an issue for the Arctic
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00:20:04,746 --> 00:20:07,940
because the state of the
ice affects the climate of the
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00:20:07,940 --> 00:20:08,720
whole planet.
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00:20:12,100 --> 00:20:16,488
Because it's white, the ice
reflects up to 90% of the sun's
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00:20:16,500 --> 00:20:20,680
energy. This is called the
albedo effect and it's why we
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00:20:20,680 --> 00:20:24,380
often see heat haze in the
Arctic even when the air feels cold.
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00:20:31,420 --> 00:20:35,999
The frozen Arctic Ocean acts
as a huge reflector bouncing
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00:20:36,011 --> 00:20:40,760
back the sun's heat into space.
Throughout history that has
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00:20:40,760 --> 00:20:46,260
helped to cool the planet but when
the ice melts it's a different story.
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00:20:51,720 --> 00:20:56,345
Because sea water is dark
it absorbs most of the sun's
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00:20:56,357 --> 00:21:01,500
heat. In the Arctic this can
trigger a chain reaction as the
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00:21:01,500 --> 00:21:06,220
warming water melts more ice
exposing more water to the sun's heat.
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00:21:11,280 --> 00:21:15,191
This cycle of warming as
huge areas start to absorb rather
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00:21:15,203 --> 00:21:18,860
than reflect heat is the
main reason why the Arctic, a
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00:21:18,860 --> 00:21:21,664
region the size of North
America, is warming
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00:21:21,676 --> 00:21:24,180
twice as fast as
the rest of the Earth.
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00:21:29,320 --> 00:21:32,748
So melting sea ice is a big
issue but there's another kind
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of ice that could have an even
more dramatic impact on our
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00:21:36,200 --> 00:21:38,467
world. The Arctic is a place
where the Arctic is the most
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00:21:38,479 --> 00:21:40,640
important in the world.
The ice that is found on land.
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This is freshwater ice formed from
thousands of years of accumulated snowfall.
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00:21:55,320 --> 00:22:00,005
This is the front of the glacier,
quite a small one believe
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00:22:00,017 --> 00:22:04,480
it or not. Glaciers are like
rivers of frozen freshwater
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00:22:04,480 --> 00:22:09,505
flowing across the surface
of the land. This one like most
229
00:22:09,517 --> 00:22:14,640
polar glaciers is flowing down
from a vast inland ice sheet
230
00:22:14,640 --> 00:22:19,317
and it's what happens to
those ice sheets that could
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00:22:19,329 --> 00:22:24,460
radically alter the face of
the planet. The Greenland ice
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00:22:24,460 --> 00:22:28,252
sheet is by far the largest
in the Arctic. It's two miles
233
00:22:28,264 --> 00:22:31,740
thick in places and six
times the size of the United
234
00:22:31,740 --> 00:22:32,220
Kingdom.
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00:22:39,280 --> 00:22:44,391
Every summer some of the
surface of the ice sheet melts
236
00:22:44,403 --> 00:22:49,800
forming sapphire blue lakes
of meltwater. More and more of
237
00:22:49,800 --> 00:22:54,004
these lakes have been forming
as Greenland has warmed over
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00:22:54,016 --> 00:22:58,160
the last 20 years. This lake
has grown over several weeks
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00:22:58,160 --> 00:23:02,180
and now it's overflowing carving
a deep channel through the ice.
240
00:23:08,720 --> 00:23:11,935
A network of channels
crisscrosses the ice
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00:23:11,947 --> 00:23:15,400
sheet but many of them
come to an abrupt end.
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00:23:26,440 --> 00:23:31,700
Huge holes like this can open up quite
suddenly, draining the meltwater away.
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00:23:43,560 --> 00:23:47,948
Alan Hubbard is a glaciologist
studying the enormous power
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00:23:47,960 --> 00:23:52,360
of these waterfalls which are
known as moolands. We've got
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00:23:52,360 --> 00:23:56,729
this amazing mooland going
on here today. The water is
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00:23:56,741 --> 00:24:01,520
overflowing from the lake
which is beginning to drain. Tons
247
00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:05,672
of water cascading down
this pipe that is effectively
248
00:24:05,684 --> 00:24:10,080
plummeting to the depths of
the ice sheet through over a
249
00:24:10,080 --> 00:24:11,940
kilometer of vertical ice.
250
00:24:19,560 --> 00:24:23,366
Alan is here to study where
the meltwater goes and what
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00:24:23,378 --> 00:24:27,400
effect it has on the remaining
ice. To do that he needs to
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00:24:27,400 --> 00:24:30,200
find a mooland that has recently run dry.
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00:24:36,440 --> 00:24:40,976
Just a week ago there was a
three mile long 10 meter deep
254
00:24:40,988 --> 00:24:45,380
lake here. The weight of
all that water cracked the ice
255
00:24:45,380 --> 00:24:49,570
beneath and the lake drained in
just a few hours with incredible force.
256
00:24:55,280 --> 00:24:59,120
A thousand ton ice boulders
were tossed about like dice.
257
00:25:06,600 --> 00:25:09,439
Alan's team have found
the hole down which the lake
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00:25:09,451 --> 00:25:12,740
disappeared and they want
to have a closer look. It's not a
259
00:25:12,740 --> 00:25:15,200
job for anyone with a fear of heights.
260
00:25:21,440 --> 00:25:24,638
As you can see it's dry up
here but if you listen you can
261
00:25:24,650 --> 00:25:27,860
hear the thunder of there's
a lot of water entering it at
262
00:25:27,860 --> 00:25:32,151
some depth. Alan wants to
place a sensor deep into the
263
00:25:32,163 --> 00:25:36,700
mooland to discover how
much water is flowing through the
264
00:25:36,700 --> 00:25:37,460
ice.
265
00:25:42,900 --> 00:25:48,291
As they drop they travel back
in time. 30 meters down and
266
00:25:48,303 --> 00:25:53,800
they reach ice formed from
snow that fell 10,000 years ago
267
00:25:53,800 --> 00:25:55,240
in the last ice age.
268
00:25:57,920 --> 00:26:03,444
When this lake drained and
the plug got pulled and the whole
269
00:26:03,456 --> 00:26:08,720
lot flushed down through
here this ice sheet it rose by a
270
00:26:08,720 --> 00:26:13,138
meter as that water accessed
the bed and force jacked up the
271
00:26:13,150 --> 00:26:17,580
ice sheet. So we know that the
water and this whole plumbing
272
00:26:17,580 --> 00:26:21,761
cavity system down here we
know that shoots straight through
273
00:26:21,773 --> 00:26:25,760
the ice and actually hits the
bed of the ice sheet. We've
274
00:26:25,760 --> 00:26:30,340
hit the water, can see the
water now. Great, nice work.
275
00:26:33,200 --> 00:26:36,877
This daring experiment is
measuring how the water flowing
276
00:26:36,889 --> 00:26:40,260
under the ice sheet affects
the speed with which the
277
00:26:40,260 --> 00:26:44,006
glaciers flow from it down
to the sea. The theory is that
278
00:26:44,018 --> 00:26:47,840
the water is acting as a
lubricant so the more water there
279
00:26:47,840 --> 00:26:54,778
is the faster the glacier flows.
To the naked eye, glaciers
280
00:26:54,790 --> 00:27:01,740
don't appear to move at all,
but move they do. These unique
281
00:27:01,740 --> 00:27:05,660
time lapse images were
captured over the last four years.
282
00:27:15,840 --> 00:27:20,314
Through long observations we
now know that Greenland's ice
283
00:27:20,326 --> 00:27:24,660
is flowing down to the sea
twice as quickly as it was 20
284
00:27:24,660 --> 00:27:29,024
years ago. The speed of the
glaciers affects our sea levels
285
00:27:29,036 --> 00:27:33,120
because when they reach
the water they break apart into
286
00:27:33,120 --> 00:27:38,240
icebergs. Occasionally
a real mega-burg is born.
287
00:27:46,620 --> 00:27:50,740
This is the store glacier in May 2010.
288
00:28:19,760 --> 00:28:37,280
This is the store glacier
in May 2010. This is the
289
00:28:37,280 --> 00:28:44,640
store glacier
290
00:28:44,640 --> 00:28:48,956
in May 2010. 75 million
tons of ice that have been
291
00:28:48,968 --> 00:28:53,720
sitting on land for thousands
of years has broken away.
292
00:28:57,960 --> 00:29:01,363
Events like this have
become increasingly common
293
00:29:01,375 --> 00:29:04,860
as Greenland's glaciers
flow faster into the sea.
294
00:29:17,920 --> 00:29:22,348
Every single one of these
icebergs raises the sea level a
295
00:29:22,360 --> 00:29:26,800
small amount. Scientists
monitoring the ice sheet predict
296
00:29:26,800 --> 00:29:30,387
that Greenland might add as
much as a half meter to world
297
00:29:30,399 --> 00:29:34,060
sea levels by the end of the
century, enough to swamp many
298
00:29:34,060 --> 00:29:36,040
of the world's low-lying islands.
299
00:29:57,820 --> 00:30:02,518
99% of the Arctic's freshwater
ice is in Greenland. It's a
300
00:30:02,530 --> 00:30:07,400
staggeringly big ice sheet
but it's just a drop in the ocean
301
00:30:07,400 --> 00:30:11,200
compared to that at the
southern end of our planet.
302
00:30:18,980 --> 00:30:23,106
In Antarctica there is
10 times more ice, by
303
00:30:23,118 --> 00:30:27,440
far the largest
concentration of ice on Earth.
304
00:30:32,260 --> 00:30:37,680
Our exploration of the Antarctic only
began a little over a hundred years ago.
305
00:30:43,280 --> 00:30:46,782
The study of ice retreat
here was unwittingly begun on
306
00:30:46,794 --> 00:30:50,180
an expedition led by the
great early explorer Ernest
307
00:30:50,180 --> 00:30:50,640
Shackleton.
308
00:30:55,680 --> 00:31:00,498
In 1916, after their expedition
boat was crushed and sunk by
309
00:31:00,510 --> 00:31:05,340
ice, Shackleton and two
companions set off to summon help in
310
00:31:05,340 --> 00:31:06,220
a tiny boat.
311
00:31:09,180 --> 00:31:13,068
They sailed over 800 miles
across the Southern Ocean to
312
00:31:13,080 --> 00:31:17,120
the island of South Georgia
on the edge of the Antarctic.
313
00:31:20,720 --> 00:31:23,980
Near starving and dressed
in rags, the three men walked
314
00:31:23,992 --> 00:31:27,380
across the ice sheet at the
center of the island, knowing
315
00:31:27,380 --> 00:31:31,460
there was a wailing base on the opposite
coast where they could summon help.
316
00:31:38,860 --> 00:31:43,898
This team of Royal Marines
is retracing the steps of that
317
00:31:43,910 --> 00:31:48,960
journey in tribute to Shackleton
and his men. But for all
318
00:31:48,960 --> 00:31:51,557
their efforts, they
can't exactly copy the
319
00:31:51,569 --> 00:31:54,300
Great Walk because
the ice is not as it was.
320
00:31:57,400 --> 00:32:01,745
A number of South Georgia's
glaciers were photographed by
321
00:32:01,757 --> 00:32:06,340
Shackleton's cameraman. Frozen
planets saw a dramatic change
322
00:32:06,340 --> 00:32:09,300
when they returned 94 years later.
323
00:32:26,860 --> 00:32:30,248
Most of South Georgia's
glaciers have shrunk since
324
00:32:30,260 --> 00:32:34,060
Shackleton's time, and most
of that has happened since I
325
00:32:34,060 --> 00:32:38,490
first went to the Antarctic 30
years ago. I've been to South
326
00:32:38,502 --> 00:32:42,580
Georgia several times and
seen how greatly the glaciers
327
00:32:42,580 --> 00:32:43,900
there have changed.
328
00:32:48,620 --> 00:32:53,745
This photograph of a glacier
reaching right down to the sea
329
00:32:53,757 --> 00:32:58,980
was taken just six years
before I first visited in 1981. Now
330
00:32:58,980 --> 00:33:03,520
that glacier has retreated by
400 meters away from the beach.
331
00:33:09,080 --> 00:33:12,479
Temperatures in South Georgia
have risen sharply, but the
332
00:33:12,491 --> 00:33:15,960
southern hemisphere's most
dramatic warming has happened a
333
00:33:15,960 --> 00:33:20,020
little further south. In
recent years, stronger winds
334
00:33:20,032 --> 00:33:24,480
blowing over the southern
ocean have brought warmer air to
335
00:33:24,480 --> 00:33:27,368
the 800-mile-long finger
of land that forms the
336
00:33:27,380 --> 00:33:30,220
northern extremity of
the Antarctic continent.
337
00:33:36,780 --> 00:33:40,711
Here on the Antarctic Peninsula,
the changing wind patterns
338
00:33:40,723 --> 00:33:44,600
have driven temperatures up
by nearly 3 degrees Centigrade
339
00:33:44,600 --> 00:33:49,920
over the last 50 years, 10 times the
average rate of the rest of the planet.
340
00:33:55,960 --> 00:34:00,680
The rapid warming is having
a big effect on the bird life.
341
00:34:15,620 --> 00:34:21,403
The daily penguin is the
most southerly nesting of all
342
00:34:21,415 --> 00:34:27,420
penguins. And like the polar
bear up in the north, their
343
00:34:27,420 --> 00:34:32,758
lives are dependent on the
sea ice. A daly spent their whole
344
00:34:32,770 --> 00:34:38,120
lives near ice. These birds
have spent the winter feeding at
345
00:34:38,120 --> 00:34:41,052
the ice edge, but now
it's spring and they've
346
00:34:41,064 --> 00:34:44,520
started a long trek over
the frozen sea towards land.
347
00:34:52,880 --> 00:34:57,184
They're heading for areas of
exposed rock where they gather
348
00:34:57,196 --> 00:35:01,080
to breed in colonies that
can be over 100,000 strong.
349
00:35:17,360 --> 00:35:22,458
But it seems that a daly's
don't find the conditions on the
350
00:35:22,470 --> 00:35:27,580
peninsula to their liking
anymore. 17 years ago, when I was
351
00:35:27,580 --> 00:35:32,451
last in the Antarctic, there
were large colonies of a daly
352
00:35:32,463 --> 00:35:37,180
penguins all along the Antarctic
Peninsula. Now, warming
353
00:35:37,180 --> 00:35:44,000
temperatures have meant less sea ice
and a daly penguin numbers are in decline.
354
00:35:52,600 --> 00:35:55,560
Many colonies have been empty and fast.
355
00:35:59,740 --> 00:36:03,115
It may be that penguins
are starving or it may be that
356
00:36:03,127 --> 00:36:06,760
they're heading south to
colder climes where there's still
357
00:36:06,760 --> 00:36:08,440
plenty of ice on the sea.
358
00:36:17,480 --> 00:36:21,664
But as in the Arctic, while
ice-loving animals are feeling
359
00:36:21,676 --> 00:36:25,800
the heat, animals that like it
a bit more cosy are moving
360
00:36:25,800 --> 00:36:26,820
in.
361
00:36:33,700 --> 00:36:37,938
The bright orange beaks of
gentoo penguins are a much more
362
00:36:37,950 --> 00:36:42,200
common sight on the peninsula
these days. I always used to
363
00:36:42,200 --> 00:36:45,257
know them as residents of
the slightly warmer islands
364
00:36:45,269 --> 00:36:48,680
north of the Antarctic, but
they've moved south in numbers.
365
00:36:50,420 --> 00:36:53,414
They're thought to be
10 times more gentoos
366
00:36:53,426 --> 00:36:56,500
on the peninsula now
than just 30 years ago.
367
00:37:05,240 --> 00:37:10,900
The peninsula has warmed a great deal,
but the same is not true further south.
368
00:37:15,260 --> 00:37:19,988
The Antarctic continent is
smothered by the world's greatest
369
00:37:20,000 --> 00:37:24,740
ice sheet, one and a half
times the size of Australia and up
370
00:37:24,740 --> 00:37:26,540
to three miles thick.
371
00:37:29,400 --> 00:37:34,540
A staggering 75% of the Earth's
fresh water is locked up in this ice.
372
00:37:39,340 --> 00:37:45,040
Global sea levels would rise by
some 60 metres if all this was to melt.
373
00:37:48,500 --> 00:37:51,987
But what chance is there
of that happening here
374
00:37:51,999 --> 00:37:55,280
in the coldest, most
hostile place on Earth?
375
00:38:00,260 --> 00:38:05,692
The ice beneath me up here
on top of the ice cap is so thick
376
00:38:05,704 --> 00:38:10,880
that I am short of breath
simply because of the altitude.
377
00:38:11,400 --> 00:38:16,931
This is midsummer and the
average temperature is some 20
378
00:38:16,943 --> 00:38:22,680
degrees below freezing. I
can tell you it feels much lower
379
00:38:22,680 --> 00:38:28,954
than that. And even the worst
predictions don't suggest that
380
00:38:28,966 --> 00:38:34,840
the air is going to warm
enough to melt the ice. But now
381
00:38:34,840 --> 00:38:39,608
scientists are asking a different
question. Could the speed
382
00:38:39,620 --> 00:38:44,320
at which the Antarctic ice
flows off the land be increased
383
00:38:44,320 --> 00:38:48,800
by a warmer ocean? Where
the ice sheet meets the sea,
384
00:38:48,812 --> 00:38:53,220
scientists are going to
extreme lengths to find out.
385
00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:10,695
Andy Smith works for the
British Antarctic Survey. What we
386
00:39:10,707 --> 00:39:15,020
have here is a one kilogram
of pentelite explosive. We're
387
00:39:15,020 --> 00:39:18,178
going to use this to generate
a shockwave and record
388
00:39:18,190 --> 00:39:21,240
the echoes that come back
from underneath the ice.
389
00:39:25,940 --> 00:39:30,456
Andy is particularly interested
in mapping the underside of
390
00:39:30,468 --> 00:39:34,920
the ice around the coast.
Because here it isn't resting on
391
00:39:34,920 --> 00:39:39,420
land, it's floating on seawater.
So if sea temperatures
392
00:39:39,432 --> 00:39:43,380
rise just a little, it can
be melted from below.
393
00:39:45,960 --> 00:39:49,508
Around the coast of Antarctica,
the glaciers have flowed out
394
00:39:49,520 --> 00:39:53,080
across the sea to form immense
masses of floating freshwater
395
00:39:53,080 --> 00:39:55,820
ice called ice shelves.
396
00:39:59,860 --> 00:40:03,414
These freeze to the land
around them, sticking fast and
397
00:40:03,426 --> 00:40:06,800
acting like bath plugs,
holding back the flow of the
398
00:40:06,800 --> 00:40:08,100
glaciers into the sea.
399
00:40:11,400 --> 00:40:15,036
On the Antarctic peninsula,
a one degree sea temperature
400
00:40:15,048 --> 00:40:18,760
rise has helped to break
apart seven major ice shelves in
401
00:40:18,760 --> 00:40:23,838
the last 30 years. This is
the Larson B ice shelf, three
402
00:40:23,850 --> 00:40:28,940
times the size of Greater
London breaking apart in 2002.
403
00:40:31,020 --> 00:40:33,858
Afterwards, the glaciers
it had been holding
404
00:40:33,870 --> 00:40:36,720
back started flowing
up to six times faster.
405
00:40:40,160 --> 00:40:44,918
In 2008, a much larger ice
shelf at the southern end of the
406
00:40:44,930 --> 00:40:49,780
peninsula started to break
up. It's an enormous event that's
407
00:40:49,780 --> 00:40:51,300
never been filmed before.
408
00:40:54,340 --> 00:40:58,432
Andy Smith is flying down
the peninsula to study this
409
00:40:58,444 --> 00:41:03,080
phenomenon firsthand. We're
flying to a place called Wilkins
410
00:41:03,080 --> 00:41:06,913
Ice Shelf. It's an ice shelf
that over the last couple
411
00:41:06,925 --> 00:41:10,840
of years has showed a very
sudden and dramatic breakup.
412
00:41:13,260 --> 00:41:17,054
The Wilkins Ice Shelf is a
two hour long flight south from
413
00:41:17,066 --> 00:41:21,000
his research base. But Andy
can start to see the evidence of
414
00:41:21,000 --> 00:41:24,758
ice shelf breakup a long way
before he gets there. As we're
415
00:41:24,770 --> 00:41:28,540
heading further south, we can
see more and more icebergs in
416
00:41:28,540 --> 00:41:31,203
the ocean. And most of
the big ones will be ones
417
00:41:31,215 --> 00:41:34,000
that have broken off the
ice shelves in this area.
418
00:41:39,940 --> 00:41:42,711
Once we cross the mountains,
we should be able to see
419
00:41:42,723 --> 00:41:45,660
Wilkins Ice Shelf. And
then it's not far then to the ice
420
00:41:45,660 --> 00:41:47,020
front here where it's collapsing.
421
00:41:59,320 --> 00:42:03,033
As Andy's team reaches
their destination, the scale of
422
00:42:03,045 --> 00:42:07,040
what's been happening sooner
Here, for thousands of years,
423
00:42:07,260 --> 00:42:12,520
an area the size of Yorkshire has been
covered by a sheet of ice 200 metres thick.
424
00:42:17,080 --> 00:42:20,320
But now, over half of
that has broken apart.
425
00:42:35,400 --> 00:42:39,730
Andy has been studying
Antarctic ice for 25 years, but
426
00:42:39,742 --> 00:42:44,320
even he is blown away by
what he's seeing. That is pretty
427
00:42:44,320 --> 00:42:48,831
awesome. That is remarkable.
The edge of the ice shelf has
428
00:42:48,843 --> 00:42:53,520
just kind of disintegrated.
Some of the big pieces look like
429
00:42:53,520 --> 00:42:58,464
they could be a mile or
more in size. It's almost like a
430
00:42:58,476 --> 00:43:03,780
sort of a slow motion explosion.
It all pushes outwards very
431
00:43:03,780 --> 00:43:04,300
quickly.
432
00:43:12,080 --> 00:43:16,860
Every one of these huge
icebergs will slowly drift out to sea.
433
00:43:21,380 --> 00:43:25,480
To study how fast that
happens, Andy needs to get closer
434
00:43:25,492 --> 00:43:29,820
to the action. We're going to
look around and see if we can
435
00:43:29,820 --> 00:43:33,273
find a place where we can
land. But if we can, we'll be able
436
00:43:33,285 --> 00:43:36,580
to put on an instrument that
will help us monitor the big
437
00:43:36,580 --> 00:43:39,160
icebergs that are breaking
off as the ice shelf breaks up.
438
00:43:47,600 --> 00:43:51,960
Landing on an iceberg is
another first for Andy's team.
439
00:44:05,700 --> 00:44:08,946
This satellite transmitter
will help to track
440
00:44:08,958 --> 00:44:12,500
the continued breakup
of this colossal ice shelf.
441
00:44:24,900 --> 00:44:29,740
The remainder of the Wilkins
looks set to break apart soon.
442
00:44:33,400 --> 00:44:36,888
It's the latest ice shelf to
disintegrate in a wave that's
443
00:44:36,900 --> 00:44:40,460
been traveling southwards,
playing a major role in the loss
444
00:44:40,460 --> 00:44:41,820
of ice from the peninsula.
445
00:44:44,420 --> 00:44:46,499
Next in line, and already
weakening in place, is the first
446
00:44:46,511 --> 00:44:48,460
ice shelf to disintegrate.
The only places are the ice
447
00:44:48,460 --> 00:44:52,852
shelves that hold back
Antarctica's gigantic continental
448
00:44:52,864 --> 00:44:57,500
ice sheet. And it would only
take a small corner of this to
449
00:44:57,500 --> 00:45:01,300
slide into the sea to have
major global consequences.
450
00:45:04,800 --> 00:45:07,927
We've only started to see
changes in the Arctic and
451
00:45:07,939 --> 00:45:11,380
Antarctic recently, so it's
hard to predict exactly what
452
00:45:11,380 --> 00:45:15,404
impact these changes will have.
But we can see for ourselves
453
00:45:15,416 --> 00:45:19,320
that these places are changing
and on a scale that is hard
454
00:45:19,320 --> 00:45:20,120
to ignore.
455
00:45:23,260 --> 00:45:28,145
The poles, north and south,
may seem very remote. But what
456
00:45:28,157 --> 00:45:33,220
is happening here is likely to
have a greater effect upon us
457
00:45:33,220 --> 00:45:37,646
than any other aspect of
global warming. If the Arctic sea
458
00:45:37,658 --> 00:45:42,020
ice continues to disappear,
it will drive up the planet's
459
00:45:42,020 --> 00:45:45,510
temperature more quickly.
And the melting ice sheets
460
00:45:45,522 --> 00:45:49,420
could contribute to a sea
level rise of a meter, enough to
461
00:45:49,420 --> 00:45:53,808
threaten the homes of millions
of people around the world's
462
00:45:53,820 --> 00:45:57,780
coasts by the end of the
century. We've seen that the
463
00:45:57,780 --> 00:46:02,645
animals are already adapting
to these changes. But can
464
00:46:02,657 --> 00:46:07,800
we respond to what is happening
now to the frozen planet?
465
00:46:45,440 --> 00:46:48,721
The Ice The increasing
unpredictability of the ice was a
466
00:46:48,733 --> 00:46:52,200
big issue for the frozen planet
team, who spent three years
467
00:46:52,200 --> 00:46:53,680
working on top of it.
468
00:47:01,040 --> 00:47:04,595
Whether on sea, land,
lake or river, the state of
469
00:47:04,607 --> 00:47:08,460
the ice was the first concern
for most filming crews.
470
00:47:14,260 --> 00:47:18,790
Unexpected breakups left many
a cameraman in need of a swift
471
00:47:18,802 --> 00:47:23,120
rescue. Sometimes help came
by boat and sometimes by air.
472
00:47:29,840 --> 00:47:34,404
The North Pole I had a
chance to see the changing ice
473
00:47:34,416 --> 00:47:39,500
conditions for myself when I
visited the North Pole. I flew
474
00:47:39,500 --> 00:47:42,857
with the team to a temporary
camp that is set up every
475
00:47:42,869 --> 00:47:46,360
year in the center of the
frozen Arctic Ocean to support
476
00:47:46,360 --> 00:47:47,860
expeditions to the pole.
477
00:47:52,760 --> 00:47:56,650
The North Pole I had never
visited the North Pole before, so
478
00:47:56,662 --> 00:48:00,500
this was a great highlight for
me. But it was hard going in
479
00:48:00,500 --> 00:48:05,116
temperatures of minus 40, so
as soon as filming finished, we
480
00:48:05,128 --> 00:48:09,680
flew south. Little did we know
that we had made it out just
481
00:48:09,680 --> 00:48:14,991
in time. We got back from the
pole camp last night and I've
482
00:48:15,003 --> 00:48:20,060
just bumped into the Russian
commander, who's just heard
483
00:48:20,060 --> 00:48:24,405
from the camp. And the
news is that a little crack, which
484
00:48:24,417 --> 00:48:29,000
I'd seen in the ice between
our tent and the airstrip, which
485
00:48:29,000 --> 00:48:34,021
was no more than an inch or
so wide, has overnight widened
486
00:48:34,033 --> 00:48:38,980
to 20 meters. Temporary
breakups caused by stormy weather
487
00:48:38,980 --> 00:48:42,106
and strong winds have
happened before, but they've been
488
00:48:42,118 --> 00:48:45,480
getting more and more frequent
over recent years as the ice
489
00:48:45,480 --> 00:48:46,340
has got weaker.
490
00:48:50,400 --> 00:48:53,453
It was only swift action
by the staff that prevented
491
00:48:53,465 --> 00:48:56,240
a lot of valuable
equipment going in the drink.
492
00:49:03,620 --> 00:49:07,371
The biggest concern was
that the ice airstrip might break
493
00:49:07,383 --> 00:49:11,340
apart, but luckily it held and
everyone was able to evacuate
494
00:49:11,340 --> 00:49:12,780
when the weather improved.
495
00:49:17,760 --> 00:49:21,428
The frozen planet team's
clearest demonstration of the power
496
00:49:21,440 --> 00:49:25,060
and unpredictability of breaking
ice came when they went to
497
00:49:25,060 --> 00:49:29,072
film the melting of a frozen
planet. Producer Mark Linfield
498
00:49:29,084 --> 00:49:32,840
and researcher Matt Swarbrick
have travelled to the far
499
00:49:32,840 --> 00:49:33,920
north of Canada.
500
00:49:40,400 --> 00:49:43,537
They've driven through the
vast northwest territory on a
501
00:49:43,549 --> 00:49:46,920
mission to film the moment
when this frozen waterfall breaks
502
00:49:46,920 --> 00:49:47,520
apart.
503
00:49:51,220 --> 00:49:54,676
The breakup, when the
frozen river above the waterfall
504
00:49:54,688 --> 00:49:58,220
thaws and masses of water
start to flow again, can be a
505
00:49:58,220 --> 00:50:01,808
spectacular event. But
predicting exactly when it's going to
506
00:50:01,820 --> 00:50:05,360
break is the big challenge if
Mark and Matt want to get the
507
00:50:05,360 --> 00:50:06,040
best shots.
508
00:50:09,020 --> 00:50:12,071
And they're not the only ones
who want to know. When the
509
00:50:12,083 --> 00:50:15,200
waterfall breaks, it can flood
the town of Hay River just
510
00:50:15,200 --> 00:50:19,672
downstream with millions of
tons of water and ice. Mark is
511
00:50:19,684 --> 00:50:24,320
taking advice from the scientist
Faye Hicks, who has the job
512
00:50:24,320 --> 00:50:27,540
of predicting when the ice
will break. What happens is you
513
00:50:27,552 --> 00:50:30,620
get ice jams form upstream
and they start to dam up the
514
00:50:30,620 --> 00:50:33,984
water and it builds and builds
and builds and that can let
515
00:50:33,996 --> 00:50:37,200
go and that's a much bigger
wave of water than just the
516
00:50:37,200 --> 00:50:41,040
normal flow. So it just depends
upon how dramatically it
517
00:50:41,052 --> 00:50:45,040
unfolds. Faye takes her
research helicopter to monitor the
518
00:50:45,040 --> 00:50:46,800
situation upstream of the waterfall.
519
00:50:56,680 --> 00:51:01,376
Just ten miles upriver, the
ice is starting to break. The
520
00:51:01,388 --> 00:51:06,340
locals are concerned because
huge amounts of water can build
521
00:51:06,340 --> 00:51:09,520
up if these ice chunks dam
the river and that can lead
522
00:51:09,532 --> 00:51:12,840
to devastating flooding in
the town when the dams burst.
523
00:51:17,780 --> 00:51:20,599
Using cameras and sonar to
assess the state of the river,
524
00:51:20,611 --> 00:51:23,540
Faye makes her best guess
of when this breakup will hit the
525
00:51:23,540 --> 00:51:27,981
waterfall just above the town.
So now guys, I think we have
526
00:51:27,993 --> 00:51:32,520
about 48 hours to go. Faye's
prediction of the 24th of April
527
00:51:32,520 --> 00:51:34,900
is exciting news for the team.
528
00:51:37,760 --> 00:51:41,308
Upstream from here, it's
already starting to melt and Faye
529
00:51:41,320 --> 00:51:44,940
thinks that we may only have
another one or two days before
530
00:51:44,940 --> 00:51:49,320
this whole thing goes, which
is almost impossible to imagine
531
00:51:49,332 --> 00:51:53,220
looking at it now, but that's
what she says. With the
532
00:51:53,220 --> 00:51:56,840
breakup seemingly imminent, the
team set up their cameras in anticipation.
533
00:52:00,240 --> 00:52:03,387
Over the next 48 hours, the
weather warms to well above
534
00:52:03,399 --> 00:52:06,840
freezing, but there's no sign
of the breakup. The team waits
535
00:52:06,840 --> 00:52:19,400
and waits and waits. Mark is
536
00:52:19,400 --> 00:52:22,690
concerned that the crew
have to return home soon, so he
537
00:52:22,702 --> 00:52:26,240
heads into town to get the
advice of long-term resident Red
538
00:52:26,240 --> 00:52:31,098
McBrien. We just have to live
with it and take whatever base
539
00:52:31,110 --> 00:52:35,660
of action we can. Red has
had 50 years of witnessing the
540
00:52:35,660 --> 00:52:39,284
power of the river. Well, we're
hoping that she may break
541
00:52:39,296 --> 00:52:43,120
up in two or three days even.
Oh, no, no, no, no. That's too
542
00:52:43,120 --> 00:52:47,544
soon. You think it'll be
longer? Oh, no, no. Boys, you're
543
00:52:47,556 --> 00:52:51,840
looking at seven or eight
days before she breaks of any
544
00:52:51,840 --> 00:52:57,980
significance. And if she
breaks, she can jam and hold up.
545
00:53:00,780 --> 00:53:05,328
She'd be down here probably
around the fifth or sixth of
546
00:53:05,340 --> 00:53:10,220
May. The townspeople are on
tenterhooks, waiting for the big
547
00:53:10,220 --> 00:53:14,800
day, but another week goes by
before anything starts to happen.
548
00:53:26,460 --> 00:53:30,628
Finally, it seems that things
might be happening. We've just
549
00:53:30,640 --> 00:53:34,820
heard some cracks from
upstream, so if we're lucky, we might
550
00:53:34,820 --> 00:53:37,957
get some action. Seven
o'clock, which gives us two hours
551
00:53:37,969 --> 00:53:41,340
light. If it happens at night,
we're going to miss the whole
552
00:53:41,340 --> 00:53:41,720
thing.
553
00:53:44,480 --> 00:53:48,537
Sure enough, the town is
put on red alert that the river
554
00:53:48,549 --> 00:53:52,760
is about to break in the
middle of the night. They've just
555
00:53:52,760 --> 00:53:55,531
called a full evacuation of
the island where we're staying.
556
00:53:55,543 --> 00:53:58,280
If we don't move now, we're
all going to be underwater and
557
00:53:58,280 --> 00:54:01,788
possibly get trapped here for
a few days. The team have to
558
00:54:01,800 --> 00:54:05,440
move out and get up to the
waterfall, hoping that it doesn't
559
00:54:05,440 --> 00:54:07,340
break before it's light enough to film.
560
00:54:13,060 --> 00:54:16,371
Luckily, the sun is up
before the main event begins.
561
00:54:16,383 --> 00:54:20,020
That is a serious amount of
ice coming around the corner.
562
00:54:31,820 --> 00:54:35,392
After weeks of waiting,
sleeping giant of a river, we
563
00:54:35,404 --> 00:54:39,320
thought nothing was going to
happen, and suddenly, look at
564
00:54:39,320 --> 00:54:45,979
this! This is what we're here
for. Unbelievable! Absolutely
565
00:54:45,991 --> 00:54:52,440
unbelievable! Holy ****! How
are you? The team is used to
566
00:54:52,440 --> 00:54:55,013
handling multiple cameras,
but they don't usually have to
567
00:54:55,025 --> 00:54:57,520
dodge. They can even dodge
10-ton ice flows at the same
568
00:54:57,520 --> 00:55:02,839
time. You can see it racing
over at an unbelievable speed.
569
00:55:02,851 --> 00:55:07,820
The power, if you are
here to feel this, it's the deep
570
00:55:07,820 --> 00:55:10,816
rumbling sound of the river.
I can feel it up to my feet.
571
00:55:10,828 --> 00:55:13,940
The power, I just can't imagine.
It has to crush a house in
572
00:55:13,940 --> 00:55:17,760
no time. The team takes
to the air to witness the
573
00:55:17,772 --> 00:55:22,140
destruction that's unleashed.
Huge ice blocks are pushed
574
00:55:22,140 --> 00:55:25,620
downstream on the wave of water
released by the breaking waterfall.
575
00:55:29,820 --> 00:55:32,140
This could devastate the town.
576
00:55:36,800 --> 00:55:42,200
But this year, the townspeople's luck
is in. The town has escaped flooding.
577
00:55:47,060 --> 00:55:50,759
Crucially, the ice blocks
did not dam the river. It's
578
00:55:50,771 --> 00:55:54,620
running free. And the date
of the break-up? 6th of May.
579
00:55:55,300 --> 00:56:00,738
Red's got it right again. I
don't use any of these gauges
580
00:56:00,750 --> 00:56:06,200
and mechanical assistance.
I just go by what I see on the
581
00:56:06,200 --> 00:56:09,948
river as I walk it down. And
I say, I walk it down, I back
582
00:56:09,960 --> 00:56:13,720
and forth every day on the
river, to see what's happening,
583
00:56:14,300 --> 00:56:18,028
and from that I gauge when
it's going to hit here, and what
584
00:56:18,040 --> 00:56:21,780
the situation's going to be
like when it does get here. You
585
00:56:21,780 --> 00:56:24,602
know, when it went this
morning, I said to my students,
586
00:56:24,614 --> 00:56:27,700
guess what the date is. Red
told us it's the 6th of May. And
587
00:56:27,700 --> 00:56:30,484
I'm not surprised because
we've been here a couple times
588
00:56:30,496 --> 00:56:33,440
and that's happened. Ten
days, two weeks out, he just looks
589
00:56:33,440 --> 00:56:37,012
around and goes, 5th of May.
How does he know that? It's
590
00:56:37,024 --> 00:56:40,860
incredible. It's because he
just has lived on this river and
591
00:56:40,860 --> 00:56:45,043
lived this break-up for 50
years. I see scientists on
592
00:56:45,055 --> 00:56:49,560
improving the accuracy of
their predictions all the time,
593
00:56:49,560 --> 00:56:53,002
but in the meantime, the
people of Hay River have a
594
00:56:53,014 --> 00:56:56,800
remarkable guardian. Red,
you were completely right this
595
00:56:56,800 --> 00:57:02,146
year. Are you right
every year? No, I missed
596
00:57:02,158 --> 00:57:06,920
the odd one. Yes.
In 1985, I missed it.
597
00:57:13,720 --> 00:57:15,120
Music
56203
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