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Narrator: Patagonia's forests
are magical places.
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Here, age-old relationships
between animals,
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people, and trees still survive.
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00:00:44,607 --> 00:00:47,945
These bonds are needed
like never before...
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00:00:49,866 --> 00:00:54,207
...as these ancient forests
face unprecedented threats.
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At the ends of the Earth
is a land of extremes...
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...home to spectacular wildlife.
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For centuries,
people and animals
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have battled for supremacy.
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00:01:15,871 --> 00:01:19,377
But now enemies
are becoming allies.
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00:01:22,049 --> 00:01:24,929
Together, they face
new challenges...
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00:01:26,557 --> 00:01:29,562
...in a rapidly changing world.
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You are at the mercy
of the elements.
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Narrator: This is the story
of what it takes to survive...
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...on the edge of the world.
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Patagonia's forests are filled
with fascinating wildlife
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and jaw-dropping vistas...
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...unlike anywhere else
on Earth.
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We're on a journey of discovery
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Through Patagonia's
wild woodlands...
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00:02:11,930 --> 00:02:15,687
...from its northern
rain forests
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to the tip of South America,
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where the trees have to tough
out long, freezing winters.
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Forests filled with a host
of miraculous creatures...
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...many found
nowhere else on Earth.
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Today, though, these ancient
woodlands are under siege,
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sometimes
from surprising threats.
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These are araucarias,
Patagonia's most iconic trees.
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Because of their
intricate branching,
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they're also known as
"monkey puzzles."
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Found only in southern
South America,
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they were once far more common.
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They're hanging on
in a few remote spots,
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peppered along the slopes
of Patagonia's volcanoes
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in both Chile and Argentina.
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Reaching up to 160 feet,
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these giants are survivors
from the Jurassic era
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more than 145 million years ago.
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Distinct spiny leaves evolved
as a defense
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against hungry
long-necked dinosaurs.
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00:04:03,632 --> 00:04:06,721
But today's visitors
are less destructive...
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...though they do
raise a racket.
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Austral parakeets --
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the southernmost species
of parrot on Earth.
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A restless bunch,
they flit from tree to tree
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in flocks of up to 15 birds.
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When they find a good
feeding spot,
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numbers can swell to over 100.
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Their preferred way
to fatten up for the winter?
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Gorging on monkey puzzle
pine nuts.
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In return, the birds spread
the seeds far and wide.
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00:05:03,949 --> 00:05:07,079
But the parakeets aren't the
only ones here for the harvest.
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The Mapuche -- indigenous people
who have lived here
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for almost 3,000 years.
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They rely on these seeds
for food...
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...grinding them into flour
to make bread.
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The Mapuches' unique bond with
the trees was almost broken.
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For hundreds of years,
European colonizers
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stole their land and forests,
stripping them for lumber.
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00:05:55,083 --> 00:05:58,506
And the devastation continued
through the 1990s.
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00:06:04,308 --> 00:06:08,106
Petrona Pellao watched
as homes were torched
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and many of her relatives fled
to neighboring countries.
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But she remained to defend
her community
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and the trees.
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Narrator: In recent decades,
the Mapuche battled with loggers
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and the government,
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demanding legal protection
for the trees.
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00:07:03,581 --> 00:07:05,167
And they won.
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Today, these once besieged
monkey puzzle forests
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are protected by law
across Patagonia,
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to the relief of parrots
and humans alike.
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But while these giants may yet
survive for more millennia...
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...one of Patagonia's
tiniest creatures
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could really use a helping hand.
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Narrator:
The wild forests of Patagonia...
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...a vast region straddling
southern Chile and Argentina.
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North to south,
it's over 1,000 miles,
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more than 200 miles longer
than California,
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And its mountain spine
is blanketed
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by distinct forest kingdoms.
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In the north,
nestled in a narrow strip
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between the mountains and
the warm waters of the Pacific
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is the Valdivian rain forest.
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Bordered by ice caps,
oceans, and deserts,
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it has been cut off
from the outside world
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for millions of years.
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This is the forest
that time forgot...
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...home to tiny,
magical creatures...
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...many found nowhere else
on Earth.
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00:09:02,462 --> 00:09:05,509
Only 13 inches high,
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say hello to the world's
smallest deer...
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...the southern pudu.
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This miniature mom
has her fawn in tow.
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They'll stay close
for up to a year.
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But pudus aren't
the only tiny marvels here.
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This elusive speedster
is the monito del monte.
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It's a marsupial,
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raising its young in pouches
like koalas and kangaroos.
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The monito is the only creature
in South America
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to truly hibernate.
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Remarkably, it's lived here
virtually unchanged
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for 60 million years.
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00:10:23,066 --> 00:10:27,450
Biologist Robert Nespolo studies
animal metabolism.
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He first encountered one of
these puzzling little creatures
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at the start of his career.
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00:10:35,839 --> 00:10:41,099
The monito's ability to survive
the winter fascinated him,
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and he made it his life's work
to figure out
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exactly how they pull it off.
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Solve the mystery,
and it might just help us
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to better understand
our own metabolism.
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Roberto quickly discovered
that monitos
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really know
how to pack on the pounds.
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Narrator: Like all monitos,
this tiny critter is nocturnal.
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To learn its secrets,
Roberto and his team
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leave out baited cage traps overnight.
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This little guy just
couldn't resist a free meal.
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Now he's ready to be weighed
and measured.
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Narrator:
Hibernation has enabled monitos
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to survive the winters here.
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The truth is
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the monito's future
is looking bleak.
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Their forest home is being cut
down to make way for farmland.
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But Roberto remains optimistic.
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Just as the monito has Roberto
fighting for its protection...
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...other creatures also have
champions going the extra mile.
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Narrator:
Summer in the magnificent
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ancient Valdivian rain forest.
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00:14:31,556 --> 00:14:33,935
Everyone's making the most
of the good weather.
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00:14:37,066 --> 00:14:38,861
Magellanic woodpeckers...
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00:14:44,121 --> 00:14:46,917
...they're South America's
largest woodpecker,
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up to a foot and a half tall.
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00:14:57,519 --> 00:14:59,606
Dad sports a scarlet hood...
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...while mom's feathers
are all black.
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00:15:12,756 --> 00:15:15,134
They're kept busy
by their growing chick.
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He's beginning to get
his own red crest,
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but his face still has
some black feathers.
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He has a way to go.
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00:15:31,664 --> 00:15:34,545
Magellanic woodpecker couples
are monogamous,
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defending their territory
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00:15:36,131 --> 00:15:39,512
and sharing parenting duties
for over two years.
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The family depends
on old-growth forest
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with plenty of rotting wood
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teeming with juicy insects
and grubs.
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The hungry chick
gives it a shot.
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Right idea...
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...wrong wood.
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It's not rotten enough.
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Dad shows him how it's done...
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...displaying his well-honed
technique as he digs out grubs.
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00:16:42,876 --> 00:16:46,257
The chick's got a lot to learn
before he can fend for himself.
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While woodpeckers stand out
among the trees,
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the Valdivian rain forest
is a sanctuary
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for an extraordinary number of
smaller, less obvious species...
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...many still undiscovered...
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00:17:14,600 --> 00:17:18,524
...which attracts intrepid
scientists like Isaí Madríz.
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00:17:20,736 --> 00:17:25,078
Isaí explores
extreme environments,
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00:17:25,119 --> 00:17:28,876
searching for some of the
Earth's least loved creatures...
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...bugs.
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His passion began in college
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when he first looked at one
through a microscope.
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Madríz: I started seeing
how beautiful they were.
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00:17:48,494 --> 00:17:53,420
A bug could be as beautiful
as any mammal you might like.
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Narrator: His mission
to track down new species
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has led him to Alerce Andino
National Park in Chile.
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Madríz:
This forest is special
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because it's considered
a biodiversity hotspot.
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If you're looking for insects,
this is the place to be.
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00:18:15,878 --> 00:18:17,547
Narrator:
Today Isaí is on the hunt
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for a bug
he's never captured before...
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...a primitive cranefly.
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00:18:25,979 --> 00:18:30,487
It's lived here
for millions of years.
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00:18:30,529 --> 00:18:33,617
Like the monito,
it's virtually unchanged
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since the time of the dinosaurs.
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00:18:38,627 --> 00:18:42,717
Being nocturnal, the cranefly
is tricky to find
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and even trickier to catch.
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Isaí uses a light trap.
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00:18:51,400 --> 00:18:53,195
A small light bulb on top
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attracts
the night-flying insects,
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00:18:55,282 --> 00:18:57,494
and a fan sucks them in.
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00:19:09,223 --> 00:19:12,103
The next morning,
he checks the trap,
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00:19:12,146 --> 00:19:13,857
hoping to find a new friend.
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Very careful
so I don't damage the legs.
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Wow.
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So beautiful.
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00:19:31,931 --> 00:19:36,440
Narrator:
Isaí has finally caught one of
these incredibly rare insects.
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00:19:38,109 --> 00:19:40,781
Madríz: What makes this species
of primitive cranefly
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that we're after special
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is it's the largest species
of that entire family.
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Narrator: Some would assume
it's simply a pest,
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00:19:56,309 --> 00:20:00,149
but every creature here in
the forest has a part to play.
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00:20:06,493 --> 00:20:10,751
Isaí sees the craneflies
as the forest's cleaning crew.
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Their larvae chew up dead trees,
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00:20:13,506 --> 00:20:14,884
helping them to rot
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00:20:14,926 --> 00:20:19,224
and stopping them
from damming up the rivers.
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00:20:19,267 --> 00:20:20,978
He believes these tiny insects
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00:20:21,020 --> 00:20:24,443
may support
the whole rain forest.
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00:20:24,484 --> 00:20:27,740
Madríz:
This could have a huge impact
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00:20:27,782 --> 00:20:29,702
in the biodiversity
that you see in rivers
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00:20:29,744 --> 00:20:31,372
in this part of the world.
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00:20:33,041 --> 00:20:35,588
Narrator: Species that play
vital roles in the forest
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are worth seeking out
and saving.
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00:20:42,935 --> 00:20:47,442
All the evidence that I am
finding doing my fieldwork
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00:20:47,485 --> 00:20:49,613
leads to conservation.
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00:20:49,655 --> 00:20:51,616
If you don't know
what's out there,
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00:20:51,659 --> 00:20:54,789
you cannot preserve
those species.
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00:20:55,582 --> 00:20:58,754
If it's been around
for millions of years,
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00:20:58,796 --> 00:21:01,843
that means they're hugely
important for this ecosystem.
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00:21:01,886 --> 00:21:04,014
We just don't know about it yet.
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00:21:05,266 --> 00:21:06,936
Narrator:
Isaí isn't the only one hunting
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00:21:06,977 --> 00:21:09,398
for extraordinary creatures.
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00:21:09,440 --> 00:21:12,028
Further south,
a man is on a mission
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00:21:12,070 --> 00:21:15,368
to see one of Patagonia's
most elusive predators.
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00:21:26,095 --> 00:21:30,019
Narrator: The vast and magical
Valdivian rain forest
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00:21:30,061 --> 00:21:32,732
is home to many
fascinating creatures...
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00:21:35,488 --> 00:21:40,329
...like this peculiar
pocket-sized predator --
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00:21:40,372 --> 00:21:41,916
the kodkod.
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00:21:49,387 --> 00:21:51,558
They may look cute,
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00:21:51,600 --> 00:21:54,313
but kodkods
are ruthless killers...
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00:21:56,233 --> 00:21:58,320
...often preying on poultry...
220
00:22:00,324 --> 00:22:03,204
...which puts them
on the locals' hit list.
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00:22:05,541 --> 00:22:08,922
Kodkods are now threatened
with extinction.
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00:22:14,098 --> 00:22:17,355
One man has become
their defender --
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00:22:17,396 --> 00:22:19,275
Fernando Vidal.
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00:22:25,953 --> 00:22:29,460
He's given up his life
as a pilot,
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00:22:29,502 --> 00:22:31,172
devoting himself
to looking after
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00:22:31,213 --> 00:22:33,843
captured and injured kodkods.
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00:22:36,848 --> 00:22:39,227
It all started
when he was 12 years old
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00:22:39,269 --> 00:22:40,813
and he tried to
persuade neighbors
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00:22:40,856 --> 00:22:43,610
not to kill the kodkod
raiding their chicken coop.
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00:22:46,157 --> 00:22:50,288
Little did he know their futures
would become so entwined.
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00:22:56,049 --> 00:22:59,431
Surprisingly little is known
about these wild cats.
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00:23:15,626 --> 00:23:17,212
Narrator:
To try and understand them,
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00:23:17,255 --> 00:23:20,760
Fernando wants to observe
kodkods behaving naturally,
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00:23:20,802 --> 00:23:23,056
without fear of persecution.
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00:23:26,563 --> 00:23:28,066
He's had a tip-off
that some cats
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00:23:28,107 --> 00:23:31,697
have been spotted
400 miles to the south
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00:23:31,739 --> 00:23:34,243
in Laguna San Rafael
National Park.
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00:23:40,630 --> 00:23:42,967
He's got five days
to try to find them.
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00:23:45,054 --> 00:23:46,598
But it won't be easy.
240
00:23:50,439 --> 00:23:52,359
Kodkods are so elusive,
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00:23:52,401 --> 00:23:56,032
some call them
"the ghosts of the forest."
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00:24:27,214 --> 00:24:29,885
Fernando spends the next
four days combing the forest
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00:24:29,927 --> 00:24:32,515
for tracks and signs,
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00:24:32,557 --> 00:24:35,020
trying to stay optimistic.
245
00:24:36,397 --> 00:24:40,028
But the tiny cats
always seem one step ahead.
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00:24:49,879 --> 00:24:52,509
It's Fernando's fifth
and final day...
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00:24:54,513 --> 00:24:57,310
...his last chance to see
a kodkod here.
248
00:25:02,486 --> 00:25:05,658
After searching all day,
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00:25:05,700 --> 00:25:08,287
he finds evidence
that he's getting close.
250
00:25:28,157 --> 00:25:32,748
As the evening approaches
and hope begins to fade...
251
00:25:50,363 --> 00:25:53,327
...it's the rarest
of the rare --
252
00:25:53,369 --> 00:25:56,792
a melanistic, or black, kodkod.
253
00:26:06,768 --> 00:26:09,231
This is almost certainly
the first time
254
00:26:09,273 --> 00:26:13,238
a melanistic kodkod
has been filmed in the wild.
255
00:26:37,449 --> 00:26:39,285
Though it was just a glimpse,
256
00:26:39,327 --> 00:26:43,501
seeing a wild kodkod
unafraid of humans
257
00:26:43,543 --> 00:26:47,133
gives Fernando hope for
the future of these little cats.
258
00:26:58,945 --> 00:27:01,117
30 miles to the south,
259
00:27:01,158 --> 00:27:04,622
Patagonia's forests are
preparing for winter...
260
00:27:07,294 --> 00:27:11,677
...and life for one of
its most endangered creatures
261
00:27:11,719 --> 00:27:14,306
is about to change...
262
00:27:14,348 --> 00:27:15,726
forever.
263
00:27:25,160 --> 00:27:26,496
Narrator:
Though summer's nearly over
264
00:27:26,537 --> 00:27:29,292
in Patagonia's mountain forests,
265
00:27:29,334 --> 00:27:32,757
temperatures are still pushing
90 degrees Fahrenheit.
266
00:27:34,677 --> 00:27:37,390
Young pumas are getting older
267
00:27:37,432 --> 00:27:38,934
and bolder...
268
00:27:44,403 --> 00:27:46,573
...honing their climbing skills.
269
00:27:58,094 --> 00:28:00,056
But their claws are no defense
270
00:28:00,098 --> 00:28:02,728
against the season's
greatest threat.
271
00:28:11,660 --> 00:28:15,083
The forests are tinder dry.
272
00:28:15,125 --> 00:28:16,210
All it takes...
273
00:28:17,755 --> 00:28:19,007
...is a spark.
274
00:28:29,651 --> 00:28:31,697
Devastating fires
are all too common
275
00:28:31,738 --> 00:28:34,159
in Patagonia's drier forests.
276
00:28:36,288 --> 00:28:38,667
Though lightning starts
a few of them,
277
00:28:38,709 --> 00:28:41,965
more than 90% are caused
by humans,
278
00:28:42,007 --> 00:28:46,306
either accidentally
or to clear land for grazing.
279
00:28:55,281 --> 00:28:59,496
Every year, tens of thousands
of acres of forest
280
00:28:59,538 --> 00:29:01,459
are turned to ash.
281
00:29:05,006 --> 00:29:08,429
Fires are even a problem in
the colder regions of Patagonia.
282
00:29:10,307 --> 00:29:12,854
At the far end of the continent,
283
00:29:12,896 --> 00:29:17,904
majestic southern beech forests
stretch for nearly 700 miles
284
00:29:17,946 --> 00:29:19,991
down towards the Antarctic.
285
00:29:30,344 --> 00:29:33,892
Autumn's here, so deciduous
trees prepare for winter...
286
00:29:35,979 --> 00:29:38,775
...drawing back nutrients
from their leaves.
287
00:29:41,572 --> 00:29:42,783
The result?
288
00:29:44,495 --> 00:29:47,917
A stunning blanket of color
289
00:29:47,959 --> 00:29:51,132
rivaling any tree-scape
on Earth.
290
00:29:59,187 --> 00:30:02,485
But this magical display
doesn't last long.
291
00:30:10,040 --> 00:30:12,545
The first snows of winter
have arrived.
292
00:30:16,260 --> 00:30:18,973
For ranger
Daniel Valazquez Romero,
293
00:30:19,015 --> 00:30:20,768
it's a special time of year.
294
00:30:25,318 --> 00:30:28,198
He used to be
a commercial sheep rancher,
295
00:30:28,239 --> 00:30:31,621
but his love of nature
has led him to a new calling...
296
00:30:33,792 --> 00:30:37,423
...rounding up a very different
kind of creature...
297
00:30:40,345 --> 00:30:45,187
...the incredibly rare
south Andean deer,
298
00:30:45,229 --> 00:30:46,857
the huemul.
299
00:30:49,236 --> 00:30:50,906
Their short legs
and stocky build
300
00:30:50,947 --> 00:30:54,621
are perfectly adapted for life
in upland forests.
301
00:30:59,046 --> 00:31:00,966
Daniel uses
radio-tracking collars
302
00:31:01,007 --> 00:31:03,261
to follow them
over the rough terrain.
303
00:31:05,057 --> 00:31:07,310
They're necessary
for their survival.
304
00:31:09,064 --> 00:31:10,984
Poaching and habitat loss
305
00:31:11,025 --> 00:31:15,575
has driven the huemul
to the brink of extinction.
306
00:31:15,617 --> 00:31:18,038
Fewer than 1,500 remain --
307
00:31:18,079 --> 00:31:22,129
just 1%
of their former population --
308
00:31:22,171 --> 00:31:26,888
making them one of the rarest
mammals on the planet.
309
00:31:29,684 --> 00:31:33,023
At the start of winter,
Daniel fits the young huemuls
310
00:31:33,065 --> 00:31:35,403
with their first
radio-tracking collars.
311
00:31:37,239 --> 00:31:39,910
He's joined by colleague
and wildlife veterinarian
312
00:31:39,953 --> 00:31:42,749
Cristian Saucedo.
313
00:31:42,791 --> 00:31:44,419
They've both dedicated
their lives
314
00:31:44,460 --> 00:31:48,050
to a project
that is transforming Patagonia.
315
00:31:53,602 --> 00:31:55,773
In a ground-breaking
partnership,
316
00:31:55,814 --> 00:31:58,402
the governments of Chile
and Argentina
317
00:31:58,444 --> 00:32:01,992
have teamed up with the charity
Tompkins Conservation.
318
00:32:03,954 --> 00:32:05,290
Their mission?
319
00:32:05,332 --> 00:32:08,462
To rewild vast areas
of former farmland.
320
00:32:12,178 --> 00:32:14,348
Cristian is in charge
of the project,
321
00:32:14,389 --> 00:32:16,560
hoping to save the huemul.
322
00:32:40,395 --> 00:32:41,940
To do this...
323
00:32:44,444 --> 00:32:46,698
...Cristian must take
drastic measures.
324
00:33:03,603 --> 00:33:06,442
This year's fawns need to be
darted and sedated.
325
00:33:12,662 --> 00:33:16,335
It may look dramatic,
but it's harmless for the deer.
326
00:33:18,714 --> 00:33:20,175
They get a health check
327
00:33:20,217 --> 00:33:22,804
and a collar
that will help keep them safe.
328
00:33:41,464 --> 00:33:43,759
For this new generation
of huemuls,
329
00:33:43,801 --> 00:33:45,429
life will now be a little safer
330
00:33:45,471 --> 00:33:47,975
with Cristian and Daniel
watching over them.
331
00:33:56,365 --> 00:33:59,454
But for another
of Patagonia's forests,
332
00:33:59,496 --> 00:34:01,249
the future is less certain.
333
00:34:03,879 --> 00:34:05,382
In the far south,
334
00:34:05,423 --> 00:34:10,057
an unwelcome developer
is causing big trouble
335
00:34:10,099 --> 00:34:12,269
with deadly consequences.
336
00:34:25,877 --> 00:34:28,047
Narrator:
In Patagonia's far south
337
00:34:28,089 --> 00:34:31,387
sits Tierra del Fuego,
338
00:34:31,428 --> 00:34:33,182
a rugged collection of islands
339
00:34:33,224 --> 00:34:36,729
covering almost
30,000 square miles.
340
00:34:38,858 --> 00:34:43,199
In Karukinka Park,
winter's icy grip is tightening.
341
00:34:52,883 --> 00:34:54,470
Beavers are getting busy.
342
00:34:58,770 --> 00:35:01,316
And their numbers are booming...
343
00:35:03,570 --> 00:35:05,073
...which is a problem,
344
00:35:05,114 --> 00:35:07,327
because they're not supposed
to be here.
345
00:35:11,710 --> 00:35:15,800
Their relentless chewing
is decimating the forests.
346
00:35:27,321 --> 00:35:30,660
In 1946,
just 10 pairs of beavers
347
00:35:30,702 --> 00:35:33,499
were imported here from Canada.
348
00:35:33,540 --> 00:35:36,796
The idea was to launch
a new fur trade.
349
00:35:38,883 --> 00:35:41,847
No one realized how much damage
beavers can do
350
00:35:41,889 --> 00:35:44,894
if let unchecked by predators.
351
00:35:48,776 --> 00:35:53,786
Today, more than 100,000 beavers
are ravaging Patagonia.
352
00:35:56,749 --> 00:36:00,798
There's no easy solution,
as Cristobal Arredondo
353
00:36:00,840 --> 00:36:04,346
from the Wildlife Conservation
Society is well aware.
354
00:36:17,871 --> 00:36:20,082
Narrator: Unlike their
North American cousins,
355
00:36:20,125 --> 00:36:23,339
these trees can't grow
new shoots from chewed stumps.
356
00:36:25,092 --> 00:36:28,973
And in waterlogged conditions,
they simply drown.
357
00:36:31,186 --> 00:36:35,277
Thousands of acres of trees
are dying every year,
358
00:36:35,319 --> 00:36:39,367
driving Cristobal and his team
to do the unthinkable...
359
00:36:45,461 --> 00:36:48,884
...exterminate the invaders.
360
00:36:48,927 --> 00:36:51,222
They set up humane
361
00:36:51,264 --> 00:36:52,683
but lethal traps.
362
00:37:05,248 --> 00:37:08,169
Only then can they destroy
the beaver dams.
363
00:37:20,483 --> 00:37:24,073
Finally, the forest waters
can flow freely again.
364
00:37:29,667 --> 00:37:33,340
Eradicating the beavers
will be tough,
365
00:37:33,381 --> 00:37:36,137
but it's important work,
366
00:37:36,178 --> 00:37:38,348
not just for this wilderness,
367
00:37:38,391 --> 00:37:41,814
but for the planet.
368
00:37:41,855 --> 00:37:45,945
Patagonia's vast forests,
like the jungles of the Amazon,
369
00:37:45,988 --> 00:37:48,367
trap huge amounts of carbon,
370
00:37:48,408 --> 00:37:50,914
helping to fight climate change.
371
00:38:19,297 --> 00:38:22,011
Only now are we waking up
to the importance
372
00:38:22,053 --> 00:38:24,766
of protecting
Patagonia's forests.
373
00:38:28,982 --> 00:38:31,778
But some have known how vital
they are all along.
374
00:38:35,327 --> 00:38:37,497
In the monkey puzzle forests,
375
00:38:37,539 --> 00:38:42,339
conservation has been going on
unnoticed for generations.
376
00:38:44,844 --> 00:38:47,641
Petrona Pellao
and her Mapuche community
377
00:38:47,682 --> 00:38:50,479
have been taking care
of their trees for hundreds,
378
00:38:50,521 --> 00:38:53,150
if not thousands, of years.
379
00:39:23,414 --> 00:39:25,542
Narrator: The respect
the Mapuche show for their trees
380
00:39:25,584 --> 00:39:28,422
demonstrates how forests
can survive...
381
00:39:30,384 --> 00:39:35,769
...and thrive
long into the future.
382
00:39:48,166 --> 00:39:53,217
Next on "Patagonia:
Life on the Edge of the World,"
383
00:39:53,259 --> 00:39:54,929
we go behind the scenes...
384
00:39:54,970 --> 00:39:56,514
Oh!
385
00:39:57,600 --> 00:40:00,689
...and reveal how our crews
battle the elements...
30149
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