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WeFlex have released version three of
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their pro camera app and it does bring
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some significant upgrades, especially
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for macro photographers. I'm going to go
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quickly over the list of features that
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have been added to the app. The big one
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for macro photographers and myself is
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focus bracketing. That has been added.
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That is a great feature. We have
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exposure bracketing. We got burst mode,
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so tap and hold for burst mode. Burst on
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tap removes tap and hold delay, stuff
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like that. Camera selection, you can now
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select both optical and digital crop
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cameras. And then we've got performance
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improvements, zero shutter lag. That is
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something I've moaned about in the past
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about the lag when you press the
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shutter. Takes half a second for it to
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take the picture. That's been eliminated
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now, which is brilliant. Got overall
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improved UI features, enhanced gallery
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features. What I want to do now is I
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want to take you through the app now
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because this version three is a
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significant improvement over the old
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app. And you've seen me use the app
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before in the past. Now, let's have a
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look at this new app and I'll take you
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through it and show you the features.
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And I have a rather half-dead flower
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down here, okay? That's what we're going
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to use just for a demo. So, I'm
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currently using the 240 mm lens with the
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200 mm macro add-on and it's attached to
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the telephoto lens. So, the first thing
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I would need to do to show you some
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demonstrations here is to change the
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camera. And we can do that by down this
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section here
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and we can go to 4x and that gives us
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our telephoto camera. So, at the side or
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the top, depending on the orientation
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you're looking at it, you've got a
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little white slider. We can bring that
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down and we can go into the options. So,
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what you want to do is you want to look
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at camera settings. Let's take a look at
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there. We have enable location. That's a
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brilliant little feature. Embed
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thumbnail, so if you're going to use raw
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format, you can embed a thumbnail.
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Burst on tap and focus lock. You can
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enable those if you want to. I
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personally don't use those. The burst on
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tap, when you enable that, will give you
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a number of shots once you click on the
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shutter button. Here, I've set it to 10
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shots. So, once I press the shutter
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button to take a picture, it will take
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10 shots. And the focus lock is
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basically to lock the focus so it
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doesn't alter on each shot.
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And then we have our focus peaking and
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I've got mine set to red. So, let's come
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out of that now.
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And obviously you've got links to their
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other apps in there as well and as well
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as the community,
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other lenses. We've got an app tutorial,
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slow shutter tutorial. I'll get onto
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that in a minute. I love it. But, let's
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come back to the camera app. So, you can
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use the app in either horizontal or
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vertical.
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You see icons change, but not everything
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changes when you go into horizontal. So,
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I'm going to use it in the vertical
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orientation, which is similar to what
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you would be using if you was out in the
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field with this, okay? Then at the
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bottom, we have our main settings, which
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is our ISO, shutter speed, exposure
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compensation, your focusing and your
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white balance. Those are brilliant,
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okay? Now, the reason I'm not going to
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touch them yet is I want to show you
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something that's unique to the iPhone,
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which is very irritating and that's your
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format. We go to the bottom right, we've
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got pro raw format. We can select our
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formats, HEIF, JPEG, pro raw or raw.
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And then we can select our megapixels.
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Now, the megapixels depends on which one
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you select. So, if we go JPEG, we can
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select 12 or 48. Go raw, we can only
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select 12. Zero processing. Does that
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mean the iPhone's upscaling, maybe? I
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don't know.
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HEIF
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or pro raw flexible. So, I would
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normally use pro raw flexible with 48
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megapixels. What I want you to do is
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keep an eye on the bottom right corner.
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If I come in here and start adjusting
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our ISO, it automatically goes back down
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to 12 [music] megapixels. So, if you do
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decide to do that, bear in mind that you
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will be losing the 48 megapixel file and
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you'll be down to a 12. Now, to reset
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that, one of the easiest ways to do is
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to come into our format and resolution
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and down the bottom you've got manual
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exposure. If we turn that off, it'll
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take us back to pro raw with 48
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megapixels. We're going to come back up
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to the top.
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Bring this little slider down. In here,
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we have our flash,
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off, on, automatic or torch. So, if we
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put it to a torch, we can turn that
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torch on when we want to take a picture.
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I don't use that at all because the lens
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kind of blocks it, but you can use that
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if you're not using a lens. And again,
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you don't need a WeFlex lens on it to
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use the app. We have our timer, 3
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second, 10, 20 or zero. That's
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brilliant. We have grid lines, so we can
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put our grid lines on,
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rule of thirds, so on and so forth.
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I tend to leave that off. We also have
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the guides and if you look in the
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center, you can see some white guides.
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If I move this about, let me take it off
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here, so you can see that a little bit
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better.
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You can tell whether your orientation is
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correct. You can see there when it's
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correct, it highlights green. Same as
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when we go horizontal. You see there?
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Not something I use in my work, but it's
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there if you need it. So, to the bottom
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left, we have highlight and shadow
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warnings. We can turn that on, okay? And
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if I just cover this up, you're going to
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see
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there's your shadow warning. That's that
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saying it's basically pitch black. And
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then if I can orientate my hand in such
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a way, tell you what, let's bring
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[music] the shutter speed down. You can
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see you've got highlight warnings.
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So, let's come back and reset that back
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to pro raw. On the right-hand side, we
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have our have our histogram. You can see
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there we're a little bit to the dark
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side, but it doesn't matter. We're just
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doing this demonstration. And we can
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also change that to a colored histogram
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if you want to by clicking on it and
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that shows the individual RGB values of
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your scene. Right down the bottom, we
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have a left hand icon. Looks like a
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little iris. That is our motion blur.
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This I absolutely love. So, we can
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simulate a 2-second exposure
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in the the camera itself. So, if you
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look at this, right? You watching? See,
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there's no blur.
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If I take a picture now, you can see how
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it blurs it. It's like built-in ND
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filters. And I used this to create this
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image here of an alien.
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And I use my smoke machine here. I'm
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going to set my exposure, let's say
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[music] let's go 5 seconds, okay? And
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you notice your exposure doesn't change.
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It's just you know, normally, if you're
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doing an ND filter, you'd have to adjust
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your exposure because you're putting a
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shutter speed that's lower. Whereas with
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this, you don't.
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Take a picture.
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You see? That there, the motion blur. I
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honestly, I love it. So, it goes from
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half a second all the way up to bulb,
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which is brilliant. I love that. One
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thing to note about the motion blur is
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when you go into the motion blur, you
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will automatically go down to a HEIF
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with a 12 megapixel. There's no way
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around it. It's just the way it is. It's
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long exposure limited to 12 megapixels
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and long exposure requires a standard
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compatible format. So, there's just
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there's no way around it. I still had a
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lot of fun playing with [music] that
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slow motion feature. I'm going to skip
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this next one. We'll go on to uh AV,
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which is exposure bracketing. So, if
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you're doing HDR type of image, you can
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use that for exposure bracketing. And
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then we can flip the camera around.
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Hello.
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Just have the uh front ones. Right now,
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then. Two more things I want to show you
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before we get onto the focus bracketing.
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Let me just go back to 48 megapixel.
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Down the bottom here, we have an I icon.
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This is your focus peaking, okay? So,
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I'm just clicking to change the focus
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and you can see on the edges of the
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petals, you've got some red. That is our
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focus peaking. And again, we can change
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the color of that. If we come into our
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settings,
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let's go with a blue.
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Going to come back out, okay? And you
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can see now the highlights are now blue
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and you can see that in the center of
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the flower. So, focus peaking for anyone
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out there doesn't know it, it's an
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overlay that highlights the pixels that
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are sharp. Essentially, where your
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sharpest focus point is.
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It is highlighted with the selected
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color that you choose. Now, another
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brilliant feature that I like is the
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zoom feature. So, you can see see here,
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this is a zoom feature. So, we're
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digitally zooming in, but it's great
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[music] to nail focus. You can see there
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that that's not in focus.
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If I bring it forward,
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you can see how it comes into focus. See
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there? So, that would be in focus right
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there. If we come to MF, that's our
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focus. So, that's nearest
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and then that's far away. So, we can
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adjust our focusing. Okay, we can click
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on these icons here to
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>> [music]
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>> automatically go to the end of each one.
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So, that's close focusing and that one
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is as far away as possible. That's going
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to come into play in a minute. We have
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our white balance. Now, I'm under 5500
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Kelvin. So, we're going to set that
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there. And you notice if we mess with
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the focusing or the white balance, it
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doesn't adjust our pro raw. We're still
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at 48 megapixels. Your ISO or your
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shutter, that it adjusts that. I'm not
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too sure why. So, let's go into the
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focus bracketing and this I absolutely
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love it. So, in here, it goes from zero,
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which is your closest focusing,
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to one. Now, this is the same chart that
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is on your manual focus just here.
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Okay, which is great. If you've got
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subject that's not running around and
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it's nice and still, you can sit down
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and you can work out exactly where you
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want your focusing to start. Let's say
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we wanted to start from there,
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which is around 15, 16. And then we want
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it to end
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here, which is around 75. We can dial
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that in just here. So, let's go from
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14
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to about 75. That's your focusing set.
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That's your focusing range where the
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actual bracketing is going to move down.
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Next, we need to set how many images and
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you can go from three
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all the way up to
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100. You do it just by sliding your
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finger on the number. So, for this
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demonstration, I'm going to bring it
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back down. We don't need that many. And
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we're going to come to Let's Let's keep
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it simple and we're just going to do
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15. Once that's all set, all we have to
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do there is press start. It's going to
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start capturing a focus bracket, and you
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can see them building up down the bottom
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there. It tells you what number you're
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on, 8 of 15.
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And it'll keep going until we get to 15.
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And you can see the focusing adjusting
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as well.
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And the good thing about this as well is
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once it's finished, you can press it
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again and it'll restart from the same
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focusing. So, once it's finished, it
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comes back to the original focusing. If
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you want to cancel it, we can just press
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our shutter and cancel it, and then we
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can come out of it. Absolutely
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brilliant. Now, check this image out
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here of my jumping spider. This is a 100
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image focus stack taken on the iPhone
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using the Reflex 240 mm
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with the macro add-ons and their pro
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camera app.
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Absolutely brilliant. Here are some
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images that have been taken on the
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Reflex Pro Camera App version 3.
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All of these images have been edited
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using my macro presets. There's a link
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in the description for my presets, or
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you can click on the QR code that's on
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the screen now.
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Here's an interesting shot. You can see
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me setting up a flower shot that's going
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to be a focus stack. This is a stack of
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20 images out in the wild using the
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Reflex Pro Camera App. Very difficult
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shot to get because of the breeze, but I
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did manage to get this shot here.
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Again, no complaints about the focus
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bracketing feature in the app. So, that
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is the new Pro Camera App from Reflex.
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Brilliant update. Some really great
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features that have been added in to this
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app. And the app is currently only
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available for iPhones. So, let me know
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what you thought about this. Is it a
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great improvement for you? I think it's
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fantastic for me. Let me know in the
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comments your thoughts. I want to thank
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you for getting to the end of this
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video, and I will see you on the next
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one.23645
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