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1
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- Konnichiwa, viewers.
- As you can tell
2
00:00:07,800 --> 00:00:09,600
from the traditional
Japanese music
3
00:00:09,680 --> 00:00:12,280
coming from my car,
4
00:00:12,320 --> 00:00:13,720
I'm back on the road.
5
00:00:13,760 --> 00:00:15,920
So far,
I've had a slide on a sled...
6
00:00:16,000 --> 00:00:19,320
Oh, God, there's a bendy bit
coming up.
7
00:00:19,360 --> 00:00:21,256
Impressed my local guide
with my Japanese cooking...
8
00:00:21,280 --> 00:00:22,720
James.
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00:00:22,760 --> 00:00:25,120
-I'm so hungry.
Hurry up, please.
-Yes, all right, yes, yes.
10
00:00:25,160 --> 00:00:26,920
- Come on, number eight.
- And won money
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00:00:26,960 --> 00:00:30,160
on a very slow horse race that
was too boring to make the cut.
12
00:00:32,160 --> 00:00:34,120
It's gripping, this.
13
00:00:34,160 --> 00:00:36,600
This time, this...
14
00:00:38,440 --> 00:00:39,880
May I blow your conch?
15
00:00:39,920 --> 00:00:41,080
Yes!
16
00:00:41,120 --> 00:00:43,280
Somebody else wants
to film my lunch?
17
00:00:43,320 --> 00:00:45,920
Yes, we are completely naked.
18
00:01:04,720 --> 00:01:08,160
My grand tourism from
the north to the south of Japan
19
00:01:08,200 --> 00:01:11,560
has taken me to Tohoku,
part of Honshu,
20
00:01:11,640 --> 00:01:14,680
the largest and most populous
island of Japan.
21
00:01:14,720 --> 00:01:17,440
This is the land
of bustling megacities,
22
00:01:17,480 --> 00:01:20,559
neon lights,
bullet trains, Tokyo.
23
00:01:20,560 --> 00:01:22,120
But of course,
24
00:01:22,160 --> 00:01:26,720
it's not all like that.
25
00:01:26,760 --> 00:01:28,920
Before I hit the big cities,
26
00:01:29,000 --> 00:01:31,040
I'm headed west
into rural Honshu
27
00:01:31,080 --> 00:01:34,560
with my new translator Maki.
28
00:01:39,640 --> 00:01:43,920
We're in the fruit
and veg bowl of Honshu,
29
00:01:44,000 --> 00:01:45,760
but I'm on my way to meet a nut.
30
00:01:45,800 --> 00:01:49,760
Apparently, round here lives
a rather eccentric inventor
31
00:01:49,800 --> 00:01:51,360
of robots.
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00:01:51,400 --> 00:01:53,680
If I was going to come anywhere
to look at robots,
33
00:01:53,720 --> 00:01:56,240
the first place I'd think of
would be Japan,
34
00:01:56,280 --> 00:01:57,480
- probably.
- Right.
35
00:02:00,880 --> 00:02:02,320
Well, we've got
a date then, Maki.
36
00:02:02,360 --> 00:02:04,760
I'm taking you to out
to the robot place.
37
00:02:10,600 --> 00:02:12,520
Of all the arenas
of science and technology,
38
00:02:12,560 --> 00:02:16,280
the most disappointing
is robots.
39
00:02:16,320 --> 00:02:19,159
Where's my robot butler
I was promised?
40
00:02:19,160 --> 00:02:20,680
Bah, it's not here, is it?
41
00:02:20,720 --> 00:02:23,680
Even the Japanese aren't
really that good at robots.
42
00:02:23,720 --> 00:02:26,439
It took them 20 years
to get Honda's Asimo robot
43
00:02:26,440 --> 00:02:28,160
to walk convincingly,
44
00:02:28,240 --> 00:02:30,440
and even then, it still falls
over fairly regularly.
45
00:02:30,520 --> 00:02:33,080
But maybe we've got our attitude
to robots all wrong.
46
00:02:33,120 --> 00:02:36,800
Maybe robots should be
just a bit of a laugh.
47
00:02:39,760 --> 00:02:43,879
This robot cost a quarter
of a million dollars to build,
48
00:02:43,880 --> 00:02:47,760
and is the brainchild
of engineer Nagumo Masaaki.
49
00:02:47,800 --> 00:02:49,360
He's currently driving it, so,
50
00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:50,760
like any good
insane Bond villain,
51
00:02:50,800 --> 00:02:53,600
his face is obscured.
52
00:02:53,640 --> 00:02:55,440
I decide to coax him down
from the cockpit
53
00:02:55,480 --> 00:02:57,600
to ask him
the important questions.
54
00:02:57,640 --> 00:02:58,920
Are you mad?
55
00:03:06,880 --> 00:03:09,040
May I have a go, kudasai?
56
00:03:12,080 --> 00:03:14,280
Oh. I was expecting that
to be a no.
57
00:03:20,840 --> 00:03:23,080
Yeah,
robotics is quite uncomfortable,
58
00:03:23,120 --> 00:03:24,480
as it turns out.
59
00:03:30,320 --> 00:03:32,400
- Right, I'm now turning left.
- Yeah, yeah.
60
00:03:32,440 --> 00:03:33,840
It's very wobbly.
61
00:03:33,880 --> 00:03:36,280
Forwards to Tokyo.
62
00:03:38,440 --> 00:03:40,640
Very slowly.
63
00:03:40,680 --> 00:03:44,040
It would actually take four days
64
00:03:44,080 --> 00:03:45,840
to reach the center of Tokyo,
65
00:03:45,880 --> 00:03:47,680
even if it could cross
the drainage ditch
66
00:03:47,720 --> 00:03:49,320
at the edge of the car park,
67
00:03:49,360 --> 00:03:52,480
but still, robots!
68
00:03:52,520 --> 00:03:53,720
Stopping.
69
00:03:58,000 --> 00:04:01,400
Could I say
domo arigatou gozaimashita
70
00:04:01,440 --> 00:04:03,680
for letting me drive
your wonderful robot.
71
00:04:03,720 --> 00:04:07,280
It's, uh, exactly what
a robot should be. Superb.
72
00:04:11,480 --> 00:04:12,880
Hai.
73
00:04:12,920 --> 00:04:15,400
Was that a good...
Did he say goodbye, or...?
74
00:04:15,440 --> 00:04:16,680
Oh, there's another thing he...
75
00:04:18,280 --> 00:04:20,240
Oh, there's another thing.
76
00:04:20,280 --> 00:04:22,760
I thought that was
a bit of a sudden exit.
77
00:04:45,560 --> 00:04:47,560
He is mad.
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00:04:47,600 --> 00:04:49,799
Nagumo is kindly going to let me
79
00:04:49,800 --> 00:04:52,560
have a go at driving
his seven-ton,
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00:04:52,600 --> 00:04:56,000
8.5-meter-tall tour de force.
81
00:04:56,040 --> 00:04:57,440
Okay.
82
00:04:57,480 --> 00:04:59,480
This thing is bigger
than any robot
83
00:04:59,520 --> 00:05:01,520
I've ever driven before,
84
00:05:01,560 --> 00:05:03,600
which was the one outside
just now.
85
00:05:03,640 --> 00:05:07,680
And this one also has a design
flaw stopping world domination:
86
00:05:07,720 --> 00:05:10,120
it's too big to go through
the door of its own house.
87
00:05:10,160 --> 00:05:12,680
So, it's forward,
back, left, right?
88
00:05:12,720 --> 00:05:14,920
- Please, look at me.
- Yes?
89
00:05:15,000 --> 00:05:16,640
Yes.
90
00:05:19,320 --> 00:05:20,800
Oh, that's fantastic.
91
00:05:20,880 --> 00:05:23,040
But while I'm busy
doing the robot,
92
00:05:23,080 --> 00:05:27,000
my neglected date has taken
matters into her own hands.
93
00:05:29,800 --> 00:05:32,160
So, that's finger control.
94
00:05:32,200 --> 00:05:33,336
-Okay, so I'm going
to go forwards.
-Yeah.
95
00:05:33,360 --> 00:05:34,720
Oh, yes, I can see the finger
96
00:05:34,760 --> 00:05:35,976
moving down here
on this monitor.
97
00:05:36,000 --> 00:05:37,200
That's amazing.
98
00:05:41,200 --> 00:05:44,640
Oh, James, be ready.
99
00:05:44,680 --> 00:05:48,440
I'm coming to shoot you.
100
00:05:48,480 --> 00:05:51,920
That is Maki now on the main
monitor, forward-facing camera,
101
00:05:51,960 --> 00:05:54,560
coming in thinking
she can pick a fight with us
102
00:05:54,600 --> 00:05:56,120
with her airsoft gun.
103
00:05:56,160 --> 00:05:57,720
So, uh...
104
00:05:57,760 --> 00:05:59,720
are we all ready to take her on?
105
00:06:02,160 --> 00:06:04,920
Fire when ready,
fire when ready.
106
00:06:05,000 --> 00:06:07,240
- Here we go.
Maneuvering to the left.
Okay.
107
00:06:07,280 --> 00:06:09,040
Okay, okay, and...
108
00:06:14,480 --> 00:06:16,920
What we have here
is a good old-fashioned
109
00:06:16,960 --> 00:06:18,840
Japanese standoff...
110
00:06:20,600 --> 00:06:23,920
to find the fastest Gundam
in the East.
111
00:06:29,600 --> 00:06:33,640
- Did I hit?
- Scary. What did you do to me?
112
00:06:35,480 --> 00:06:38,240
Maki just shot me in the
robo plums. Did you see that?
113
00:06:38,280 --> 00:06:40,360
Did I get her?
114
00:06:42,040 --> 00:06:43,920
- Ooh!
- Yeah!
115
00:06:43,960 --> 00:06:47,800
Look, everyone, this is what
James May would do to a lady.
116
00:06:50,840 --> 00:06:53,600
Yes! Too easy.
117
00:06:53,640 --> 00:06:54,760
Everyone...
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00:06:54,800 --> 00:06:56,600
Oh, two more hits from Maki.
119
00:06:56,640 --> 00:06:59,480
Hit, in the head.
120
00:06:59,520 --> 00:07:02,200
Time to go in for the kill.
121
00:07:03,400 --> 00:07:05,040
Yes!
122
00:07:05,080 --> 00:07:07,560
Well, I'm advancing right up
on the other robot.
123
00:07:07,600 --> 00:07:08,720
This is ballsy stuff.
124
00:07:17,480 --> 00:07:20,760
Tom? The GoPro fall
125
00:07:20,800 --> 00:07:23,480
from the window thanks to James.
126
00:07:26,000 --> 00:07:30,040
- Loser.
- I am running away.
127
00:07:30,080 --> 00:07:31,600
Run away from the beast.
128
00:07:31,640 --> 00:07:34,600
I'm fairly confident
I won that, 8-6.
129
00:07:34,640 --> 00:07:38,600
And I've changed my mind about
robots. They're brilliant.
130
00:07:38,640 --> 00:07:40,840
I might even get one.
131
00:07:57,120 --> 00:08:00,920
It's nice. It's like a married
couple after having a big fight.
132
00:08:00,960 --> 00:08:03,800
We are back in the same car.
133
00:08:03,840 --> 00:08:05,880
- But not speaking, yeah.
- Not speaking.
134
00:08:05,920 --> 00:08:08,440
- Just looking ahead like that.
- Yeah.
135
00:08:08,480 --> 00:08:10,800
You were awful.
You seem so, so sweet
136
00:08:10,840 --> 00:08:12,840
and so James May,
137
00:08:12,880 --> 00:08:15,360
I was expecting you would
treat me like a lady
138
00:08:15,400 --> 00:08:18,200
and you act like a gentleman,
like, from England.
139
00:08:18,240 --> 00:08:20,400
Maybe it's because
I'm a cabbage roll.
140
00:08:20,440 --> 00:08:23,040
Is that right?
141
00:08:23,080 --> 00:08:25,320
- Yes, it is, yeah.
- Cabbage roll? Hmm.
142
00:08:25,360 --> 00:08:26,520
Soft on the outside,
143
00:08:26,560 --> 00:08:27,920
but then aggressive in inside.
144
00:08:28,000 --> 00:08:30,800
- This is how James May is,
everyone.
145
00:08:30,840 --> 00:08:33,160
- Did you see?
- A cabbage roll.
146
00:08:33,200 --> 00:08:36,160
That's-that's a bit
of an insult in Japan.
147
00:08:36,200 --> 00:08:37,736
- No, no, it's not insult.
- It's not an insult?
148
00:08:37,760 --> 00:08:39,840
Yeah, it's just the three
different type of boys
149
00:08:39,880 --> 00:08:41,720
available in Japan.
150
00:08:41,760 --> 00:08:43,720
So what are
the three different types?
151
00:08:43,760 --> 00:08:48,000
One is called nikushoku-kei,
meat eaters.
152
00:08:48,040 --> 00:08:49,640
- Meat eaters.
- Yeah.
153
00:08:49,720 --> 00:08:51,519
- Confident.
- Macho, then.
154
00:08:51,520 --> 00:08:53,376
- A meat eater is macho.
- Macho, yeah, yeah, yeah.
155
00:08:53,400 --> 00:08:58,120
Then there's another type
called soshoku-kei.
156
00:08:58,160 --> 00:09:00,840
- Soshoku-kei.
- Soshoku is a vegetable eaters.
157
00:09:00,880 --> 00:09:03,879
- Okay. Soshoku-kei.
- So they are more shy,
158
00:09:03,880 --> 00:09:05,360
uh, reserved.
159
00:09:05,400 --> 00:09:07,639
Well, they don't ask girls out
and that sort of thing.
160
00:09:07,640 --> 00:09:09,880
Yeah, they are
more kind of slim.
161
00:09:10,000 --> 00:09:12,160
Um, then there is another type
which is...
162
00:09:12,200 --> 00:09:15,880
could be you... Cabbage Roll.
163
00:09:16,000 --> 00:09:17,160
Rollu cabbage
164
00:09:17,200 --> 00:09:19,240
in Japanese.
165
00:09:19,280 --> 00:09:21,040
It's meat in the inside,
166
00:09:21,080 --> 00:09:25,720
so aggressive personality,
coated...
167
00:09:25,760 --> 00:09:27,440
- With cabbage.
- With cabbage.
168
00:09:27,480 --> 00:09:29,360
Layers of cabbage.
169
00:09:29,400 --> 00:09:32,000
So when you see him for
the first time, you all think,
170
00:09:32,040 --> 00:09:35,880
"Oh, he's such a nice gentleman,
very soft-spoken,
171
00:09:36,000 --> 00:09:40,440
uh, kind, uh, yeah, a bit shy."
172
00:09:40,480 --> 00:09:43,640
But then once you are
in his house,
173
00:09:43,720 --> 00:09:46,040
when he feels comfortable
with his own skin,
174
00:09:46,080 --> 00:09:47,280
he will go...
175
00:09:48,720 --> 00:09:51,120
No man in his prime
176
00:09:51,160 --> 00:09:54,480
likes to be called a grabby
cabbage roll by a lady.
177
00:09:54,520 --> 00:09:57,160
So, like the conclusion
to all couple's arguments,
178
00:09:57,200 --> 00:09:59,520
I leave Maki at the service
station and drive off...
179
00:10:00,760 --> 00:10:03,880
alone, into the wilderness.
180
00:10:09,120 --> 00:10:12,240
You join me
at a very spiritual moment.
181
00:10:12,280 --> 00:10:14,440
I am at the foot
of Mount Hagaro,
182
00:10:14,480 --> 00:10:16,440
a sacred mountain,
or at least it is
183
00:10:16,480 --> 00:10:19,400
to the Yamabushi monks,
wandering ascetics
184
00:10:19,440 --> 00:10:22,760
who have populated these forests
since the seventh century.
185
00:10:22,840 --> 00:10:25,840
And they practice
a doctrine of Shugendo.
186
00:10:25,880 --> 00:10:29,639
What that says is you leave your
earthly cares and wares behind.
187
00:10:29,640 --> 00:10:32,400
I did that as I walked
onto the bridge.
188
00:10:32,440 --> 00:10:33,880
And then you commune
with nature,
189
00:10:34,000 --> 00:10:35,600
with the mountain in particular,
190
00:10:35,640 --> 00:10:39,000
to develop a sixth sense
for the truth.
191
00:10:39,040 --> 00:10:41,600
And that is exactly what
I'm going to go and do now.
192
00:10:41,640 --> 00:10:44,240
I'm going to meet
Master Hoshino.
193
00:10:44,280 --> 00:10:48,160
Basically, I'm going for a walk
in the woods with a top monk.
194
00:10:48,200 --> 00:10:49,759
This way.
195
00:10:49,760 --> 00:10:53,200
Slowly, because it's slippy.
196
00:11:20,680 --> 00:11:23,320
Konnichiwa.
197
00:11:23,360 --> 00:11:25,720
72-year old Master Hoshino
198
00:11:25,760 --> 00:11:29,360
is a 13th-generation
Yamabushi priest,
199
00:11:29,400 --> 00:11:30,760
which means that his ancestors
200
00:11:30,800 --> 00:11:32,920
would've been
leading pilgrimages
201
00:11:33,000 --> 00:11:35,920
on this mountain 350 years ago.
202
00:11:35,960 --> 00:11:37,440
This is to make it
more difficult
203
00:11:37,480 --> 00:11:40,480
to find my emaciated corpse
in the snow.
204
00:11:48,040 --> 00:11:50,440
How far is it?
205
00:12:34,400 --> 00:12:36,160
- Yup.
- Ay.
206
00:12:36,200 --> 00:12:38,880
Shugendo was a major
spiritual movement
207
00:12:38,920 --> 00:12:41,600
in Japan from the 12th century
208
00:12:41,640 --> 00:12:43,880
until 1872 when it was banned
209
00:12:43,920 --> 00:12:47,920
as a superstitious religion
by the Meiji government.
210
00:12:47,960 --> 00:12:51,840
But nowadays,
Shugendo is being re-embraced
211
00:12:51,880 --> 00:12:54,680
as an escape
from hectic urban life.
212
00:12:56,320 --> 00:12:59,200
It's very beautiful,
it's just a bit slippery.
213
00:12:59,240 --> 00:13:02,040
That bit is very slippery.
I'm trying to write a haiku.
214
00:13:02,080 --> 00:13:04,840
Snow on the mountain,
215
00:13:04,880 --> 00:13:07,800
priest ascends the icy steps.
216
00:13:07,840 --> 00:13:09,840
English man on ass.
217
00:13:12,040 --> 00:13:14,120
That's very slippery.
218
00:13:16,160 --> 00:13:18,520
It is somewhat easier
to achieve spiritual dignity
219
00:13:18,560 --> 00:13:21,760
when nature has gifted you
a pair of spiky boots
220
00:13:21,800 --> 00:13:23,360
like Master Hoshino's.
221
00:13:23,400 --> 00:13:26,480
It's too slippery, holy man.
222
00:13:46,320 --> 00:13:48,680
James, mountaintop. Okay?
223
00:13:48,720 --> 00:13:51,920
- Excellent. Thank you.
- Hai. Hai, hai.
224
00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:55,760
As a reward,
may I blow your conch?
225
00:13:55,800 --> 00:13:57,280
Ay. All right.
226
00:13:57,320 --> 00:14:01,640
I've never done this.
227
00:14:01,680 --> 00:14:04,760
Okay.
228
00:14:17,600 --> 00:14:20,600
Okay.
229
00:14:32,600 --> 00:14:33,920
That feels quite good.
230
00:14:34,000 --> 00:14:35,480
This is excellent.
231
00:14:37,720 --> 00:14:40,520
Blowing the horn
had given me a raging thirst,
232
00:14:40,560 --> 00:14:43,360
and I felt I'd earned a drink.
233
00:14:45,400 --> 00:14:48,440
Now you join me at a slightly
awkward moment because after
234
00:14:48,480 --> 00:14:50,400
our very enlightening walk
in the mountains,
235
00:14:50,440 --> 00:14:52,440
I thought Master Hoshino said,
236
00:14:52,480 --> 00:14:55,440
"Would you like to join me
in the bar?"
237
00:14:55,480 --> 00:14:58,000
It was the bath.
238
00:14:58,040 --> 00:15:00,080
More specifically, an onsen,
239
00:15:00,120 --> 00:15:01,600
which is a specific
type of bath.
240
00:15:01,640 --> 00:15:03,800
The definition, in fact,
has been protected
241
00:15:03,840 --> 00:15:06,840
under Japanese law since 1948.
242
00:15:06,880 --> 00:15:09,240
To quality as an onsen,
it must be the product
243
00:15:09,280 --> 00:15:10,840
of volcanic activity,
244
00:15:10,880 --> 00:15:14,120
it must be geothermally heated
to at least 25 degrees.
245
00:15:14,160 --> 00:15:16,560
I'm delighted to say this is
rather more than that.
246
00:15:16,600 --> 00:15:20,160
Uh, and it must contain traces
of 18 minerals.
247
00:15:20,200 --> 00:15:21,776
Um, if you were wondering
and to save you
248
00:15:21,800 --> 00:15:24,160
starting a rather tedious thread
on Twitter,
249
00:15:24,200 --> 00:15:26,320
yes, we are completely naked.
250
00:15:26,360 --> 00:15:28,520
And the reason I have
this small towel on my head
251
00:15:28,560 --> 00:15:29,920
is not because I'm celebrating
252
00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:32,920
the British seaside holiday
of the 1950s,
253
00:15:32,960 --> 00:15:36,280
it's because this little scrap
254
00:15:36,320 --> 00:15:40,480
is what I use to hide
my "vile body,"
255
00:15:40,520 --> 00:15:43,040
as Evelyn Waugh would've put it,
when I climb out.
256
00:15:43,080 --> 00:15:44,600
The cameras will be cut by then,
257
00:15:44,640 --> 00:15:49,280
not because I'm embarrassed,
for your sake.
258
00:15:49,320 --> 00:15:50,880
And I'm embarrassed.
259
00:15:56,680 --> 00:16:00,080
It's finally time
to hit a real city, Sendai.
260
00:16:00,120 --> 00:16:03,400
And as I join the dawn chorus
to line up for a very different
261
00:16:03,440 --> 00:16:05,200
type of ritual, I'm glad
262
00:16:05,240 --> 00:16:07,280
that my soul is now clean
and uncorrupted.
263
00:16:13,240 --> 00:16:16,040
Do I look...
I feel like a pervert.
264
00:16:22,640 --> 00:16:25,520
It's 20 to 7:00 in the morning
for God's sake.
265
00:16:25,560 --> 00:16:29,520
I'm reluctantly in line
for a J-pop gig...
266
00:16:29,560 --> 00:16:33,560
Japanese pop for you
out of touch grandads.
267
00:16:33,600 --> 00:16:36,120
Okay. Domo arigato.
268
00:16:36,160 --> 00:16:39,080
I've got a hot ticket to see
the Zenryokuboys,
269
00:16:39,120 --> 00:16:41,240
the Detroit Spinners
of Sendai city.
270
00:16:43,200 --> 00:16:45,480
What's impressive
about this is that
271
00:16:45,520 --> 00:16:48,240
the Zenryokuboys have cornered
272
00:16:48,280 --> 00:16:50,800
an unchartered part
of the pop market, actually,
273
00:16:50,840 --> 00:16:52,760
the 7:00 a.m. pop concert.
274
00:16:52,800 --> 00:16:54,720
It only lasts
about a half an hour,
275
00:16:54,760 --> 00:16:57,600
and it's designed
to entertain commuters
276
00:16:57,640 --> 00:16:59,280
before they go to the office
277
00:16:59,320 --> 00:17:03,320
and schoolgirls
before they go to school.
278
00:17:03,360 --> 00:17:04,536
It's quite impressive
considering
279
00:17:04,560 --> 00:17:06,200
that they're all teenagers
280
00:17:06,240 --> 00:17:08,920
and they really should be in bed
for another three or four hours.
281
00:17:20,240 --> 00:17:21,440
Whoo!
282
00:17:22,640 --> 00:17:25,000
They're quite good, actually.
283
00:17:32,080 --> 00:17:33,680
This is the slow number.
284
00:17:37,240 --> 00:17:39,760
But, no, it's
something stranger.
285
00:17:49,280 --> 00:17:51,800
I always thought the Japanese
were a pretty stoic nation,
286
00:17:51,880 --> 00:17:54,559
but the whole place has turned
into something Richard Curtis
287
00:17:54,560 --> 00:17:57,000
would find "a bit soppy."
288
00:18:07,160 --> 00:18:11,320
I love this one.
289
00:18:11,400 --> 00:18:13,160
Just to be clear,
my eyes are watering
290
00:18:13,200 --> 00:18:17,000
from the smoke machine,
even though there isn't one.
291
00:18:18,640 --> 00:18:20,720
I know it's the objective
of the crew to try
292
00:18:20,760 --> 00:18:22,319
and make me look
an idiot on this show,
293
00:18:22,320 --> 00:18:24,160
but that's actually ruined me.
294
00:18:24,200 --> 00:18:27,760
I've been with a load of teenage
girls to see a boy band on TV.
295
00:18:27,800 --> 00:18:30,080
They were good, though.
I thought they were excellent.
296
00:18:30,160 --> 00:18:32,559
Excellent performance.
I couldn't do that at that age.
297
00:18:32,560 --> 00:18:34,160
I was completely hopeless.
298
00:18:34,200 --> 00:18:36,000
Let's go and meet them.
299
00:18:36,040 --> 00:18:37,880
- Konnichiwa. Oh.
- Konnichiwa.
300
00:18:37,920 --> 00:18:39,280
- Thank you.
- High five.
301
00:18:39,320 --> 00:18:40,936
-Thank you.
-Excellent,
excellent performance.
302
00:18:40,960 --> 00:18:43,800
I feel like the Queen after
the Royal Variety Performance,
303
00:18:43,880 --> 00:18:46,080
except I actually enjoyed this.
304
00:18:48,800 --> 00:18:52,720
Then the boys suggested giving
me my own J-pop makeover.
305
00:18:52,760 --> 00:18:54,560
Please just use your artistry.
306
00:18:54,640 --> 00:18:56,880
And since I'd already blown
my hair and wardrobe budget
307
00:18:56,920 --> 00:18:58,960
on sake, I agreed.
308
00:19:01,000 --> 00:19:03,400
It's 'cause it's very old.
309
00:19:09,080 --> 00:19:12,440
Mending motorcycles.
310
00:19:12,480 --> 00:19:14,559
I have a 360 Benly.
311
00:19:14,560 --> 00:19:17,240
And a Super Cub.
312
00:19:17,280 --> 00:19:18,640
Yes.
313
00:19:18,680 --> 00:19:20,080
A very old one.
314
00:19:22,680 --> 00:19:25,240
I decided to wrap this up
before they started asking me
315
00:19:25,280 --> 00:19:27,319
if I was going
anywhere nice this year.
316
00:19:27,320 --> 00:19:29,320
- That's good. Yeah.
- That's good? Thank you.
317
00:19:34,160 --> 00:19:36,480
I was going to have
to "Blue Steel" myself
318
00:19:36,520 --> 00:19:39,000
for what was next.
Hair was just the start.
319
00:19:39,040 --> 00:19:41,920
Against unanimous
public opinion, apparently,
320
00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:43,560
I need a new wardrobe.
321
00:19:47,160 --> 00:19:48,560
Domo arigato.
322
00:19:50,320 --> 00:19:53,040
I'm already wishing
I hadn't come.
323
00:19:58,480 --> 00:20:01,800
This is quite a cool
piece of clothing,
324
00:20:01,880 --> 00:20:04,480
um, I feel that I defile it.
325
00:20:07,720 --> 00:20:10,320
I like this. Do we agree
that this hoodie's good?
326
00:20:10,400 --> 00:20:11,656
If it doesn't look good,
I would say that.
327
00:20:11,680 --> 00:20:13,400
Because you're Japanese,
328
00:20:13,440 --> 00:20:15,880
you are obliged to be polite
and flattering.
329
00:20:15,920 --> 00:20:18,056
It's like you say, "Oh, your
jeans are very nice, James.
330
00:20:18,080 --> 00:20:20,376
"Oh, your driving is wonderful,
James," but you don't mean it.
331
00:20:20,400 --> 00:20:21,880
You're just being polite.
332
00:20:21,920 --> 00:20:24,880
I never said your jeans
were good.
333
00:20:24,920 --> 00:20:26,480
If you lot wait outside
on the street,
334
00:20:26,520 --> 00:20:27,920
I'll make a final decision,
335
00:20:27,960 --> 00:20:30,440
and then I'll come and do
a reveal, yeah?
336
00:20:34,560 --> 00:20:36,640
Right, are you ready?
337
00:20:36,680 --> 00:20:38,760
-Okay. Okay.
-Okay.
-Ready, the new me.
338
00:20:43,920 --> 00:20:46,760
Come on. It's my treat.
339
00:20:49,400 --> 00:20:52,560
I don't know why I agreed
to go clothes shopping.
340
00:20:52,640 --> 00:20:55,800
I already did that in 1984.
341
00:21:00,880 --> 00:21:02,160
Those Zenryokuboys,
342
00:21:02,200 --> 00:21:03,920
they're a nice bunch of lads,
343
00:21:04,000 --> 00:21:06,000
and I hope they make it big.
344
00:21:06,040 --> 00:21:08,440
I really should have left
that final thought there,
345
00:21:08,480 --> 00:21:12,799
but their youthfulness got me
feeling a bit un-zen.
346
00:21:12,800 --> 00:21:16,160
I really do. I hope
they don't end up 40 years old
347
00:21:16,200 --> 00:21:17,880
in a dead-end job,
348
00:21:17,920 --> 00:21:21,800
grinding their teeth
over what might have been.
349
00:21:21,880 --> 00:21:24,320
I think I'd better leave
Sendai quickly
350
00:21:24,400 --> 00:21:27,920
and find something much more
historical to look at.
351
00:21:28,000 --> 00:21:30,799
50 miles south, in a place
called Minamisoma,
352
00:21:30,800 --> 00:21:35,800
are the heirlooms of a much
older Japanese group.
353
00:21:35,880 --> 00:21:37,559
Now, we cannot really come
to Japan
354
00:21:37,560 --> 00:21:41,920
without discussing the samurai
and their life code of Bushido.
355
00:21:42,000 --> 00:21:43,680
And you might be forgiven
for thinking
356
00:21:43,720 --> 00:21:45,400
this was all invented
by Tom Cruise,
357
00:21:45,440 --> 00:21:48,400
but I'm afraid it's actually a
bit more complicated than that.
358
00:21:48,440 --> 00:21:52,080
More of this in voice-over.
359
00:21:53,760 --> 00:21:56,240
The samurai were
the warrior class of Japan.
360
00:21:56,280 --> 00:21:58,040
Trained from boyhood
in the art of war
361
00:21:58,080 --> 00:22:01,200
and fanatically loyal
to their overlords until death,
362
00:22:01,240 --> 00:22:03,920
the samurai and their
austere code of chivalry
363
00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:06,960
commanded fear and respect
for centuries.
364
00:22:07,960 --> 00:22:09,440
Aota-san,
365
00:22:09,480 --> 00:22:12,200
who I am about to meet,
is a genuine samurai,
366
00:22:12,240 --> 00:22:13,760
the descendent
of a samurai clan.
367
00:22:13,800 --> 00:22:16,120
And you needn't be alarmed...
He's not going to shout,
368
00:22:16,160 --> 00:22:18,640
"For the emperor," and cut
my head off with a katana.
369
00:22:18,680 --> 00:22:21,760
He's actually a retired farmer,
and these days devotes himself
370
00:22:21,800 --> 00:22:26,080
to collecting and repairing
his dynasty's weapons and armor,
371
00:22:26,120 --> 00:22:29,200
which he is now going
to show me.
372
00:22:29,240 --> 00:22:31,800
And then he's gonna cut
my head off with a katana.
373
00:22:34,240 --> 00:22:36,480
Aota-san's home is packed
with enough kit
374
00:22:36,520 --> 00:22:39,880
to start a small regional war.
375
00:22:39,920 --> 00:22:42,800
For the purposes
of historical osmosis,
376
00:22:42,840 --> 00:22:45,920
I agree to be dressed
in full samurai armor.
377
00:22:46,000 --> 00:22:47,376
I'm trying not to take it
personally
378
00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:50,600
that everyone I meet seems
to want to give me a makeover.
379
00:22:50,640 --> 00:22:52,360
You join me
in my thermal underwear.
380
00:22:52,400 --> 00:22:54,640
Aota-san here...
381
00:22:54,680 --> 00:22:56,680
is, uh, going to dress me.
382
00:22:58,240 --> 00:23:00,760
These are...
these are like foot mittens.
383
00:23:00,800 --> 00:23:02,920
This could take a while.
384
00:23:03,000 --> 00:23:05,320
Was all this armor owned
by your direct ancestors?
385
00:23:18,200 --> 00:23:22,840
Now here we have the samurai
equivalent of shin pads.
386
00:23:22,880 --> 00:23:26,440
Or Shinto pads,
as they're known.
387
00:23:26,480 --> 00:23:30,440
These, I think... are these,
these beaten iron? It is.
388
00:23:32,280 --> 00:23:34,720
It's getting quite heavy,
and I think my hair
389
00:23:34,760 --> 00:23:37,000
may become a part of it.
390
00:23:37,040 --> 00:23:39,560
What if I can't stand up
at the end of all this?
391
00:23:43,920 --> 00:23:45,600
Oh, well,
that's all right, then.
392
00:23:45,640 --> 00:23:48,760
The samurai were devoted
to a code of conduct
393
00:23:48,800 --> 00:23:53,440
called as bushido, demanding
loyalty, courage, veracity,
394
00:23:53,480 --> 00:23:56,720
compassion and honor;
as well as a lifestyle
395
00:23:56,760 --> 00:23:58,280
of strict martial discipline.
396
00:23:58,320 --> 00:23:59,800
Stand?
397
00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:03,360
Finishing touches.
398
00:24:03,400 --> 00:24:05,320
Oh, I like this bit.
399
00:24:07,640 --> 00:24:10,200
I know a London club were this
would be perfectly acceptable.
400
00:24:10,240 --> 00:24:13,080
Torture Gardens.
401
00:24:13,120 --> 00:24:14,920
I meant the Chelsea Arts Club.
402
00:24:15,000 --> 00:24:17,200
If you don't mind...
403
00:24:24,720 --> 00:24:27,080
This is a 300-year-old katana,
404
00:24:27,120 --> 00:24:29,160
if anybody has anything fatuous
to say.
405
00:24:29,200 --> 00:24:30,680
I suspect not.
406
00:24:36,400 --> 00:24:38,240
James is looking fabulous today
407
00:24:38,280 --> 00:24:41,680
in this 30-piece, cast-iron
spring ensemble
408
00:24:41,720 --> 00:24:43,760
from ancient Minamasoma.
409
00:24:43,800 --> 00:24:48,120
Perfect for fancy work meetings
and massacres.
410
00:24:48,160 --> 00:24:50,000
Mr. Aota-san's son has gone
411
00:24:50,040 --> 00:24:51,920
for the winter look,
with matching helmet.
412
00:24:58,400 --> 00:25:02,120
The samurai might have
a long military history,
413
00:25:02,160 --> 00:25:03,840
but after all
that lengthy dressing up,
414
00:25:03,880 --> 00:25:05,800
I'm surprised
they didn't miss half the wars
415
00:25:05,840 --> 00:25:07,840
they were invited to.
416
00:25:09,280 --> 00:25:10,800
See? I've missed it.
417
00:25:15,200 --> 00:25:17,200
I said strictly no horses.
418
00:25:18,640 --> 00:25:22,400
The samurai fought
their last battle in 1877,
419
00:25:22,440 --> 00:25:24,160
around the same time
420
00:25:24,200 --> 00:25:27,240
a different mode of transport
was becoming popular.
421
00:25:27,280 --> 00:25:30,240
Perhaps if they'd just
made use of that,
422
00:25:30,280 --> 00:25:33,160
they might've ridden on
to more victories.
423
00:25:37,680 --> 00:25:39,680
I've modernized it.
424
00:25:45,240 --> 00:25:46,880
Just then, I get a phone call
425
00:25:46,920 --> 00:25:48,440
from the irate manager
of a Japanese
426
00:25:48,480 --> 00:25:51,640
service station,
demanding I pick up Maki.
427
00:25:51,680 --> 00:25:55,560
We decide to stop
just south of Sendai,
428
00:25:55,600 --> 00:25:57,800
where Maki says she wants
to make things up to me
429
00:25:57,840 --> 00:25:59,760
by giving me some tongue.
430
00:26:01,840 --> 00:26:03,880
You should all be ashamed
of yourselves.
431
00:26:08,520 --> 00:26:10,640
So pick a piece up...
432
00:26:10,680 --> 00:26:12,280
Gyutan, as it's known,
433
00:26:12,320 --> 00:26:14,920
is thinly-sliced tongue
cooked over a charcoal grill.
434
00:26:15,000 --> 00:26:18,120
And since it was first
served here in 1948,
435
00:26:18,160 --> 00:26:19,640
Sendai has become known
436
00:26:19,680 --> 00:26:21,720
as the beef tongue capital
of the world.
437
00:26:23,600 --> 00:26:25,400
I am a British man
doing a barbecue,
438
00:26:25,440 --> 00:26:27,240
so that means
it will taste terrible.
439
00:26:28,680 --> 00:26:31,240
- Ooh, look at this.
- Okay.
440
00:26:31,280 --> 00:26:33,760
- 'Cause I want to ask you...
- Yes. Oh, yeah, yeah.
441
00:26:33,800 --> 00:26:35,520
Maybe you want
to place over here
442
00:26:35,560 --> 00:26:38,360
so that you will not touch
the... the meat juice?
443
00:26:38,400 --> 00:26:40,256
-Yeah, that's a good point.
That's unhygienic.
-Yes.
444
00:26:40,280 --> 00:26:42,920
Yes, it's unhygienic.
445
00:26:43,000 --> 00:26:44,800
Excuse me speaking
with my mouth full.
446
00:26:44,840 --> 00:26:46,840
It's nice.
447
00:26:46,880 --> 00:26:48,920
Mmm. It is nice.
448
00:26:48,960 --> 00:26:50,840
I thought it would be...
449
00:26:50,880 --> 00:26:52,320
It actually tastes
a bit like pork.
450
00:26:52,360 --> 00:26:55,200
Tell me, what do you really
think about the British?
451
00:26:55,240 --> 00:26:56,760
What do we think about them?
452
00:26:56,800 --> 00:26:58,560
- Um...
- Do you think we're a bit smelly
453
00:26:58,600 --> 00:26:59,920
and scruffy?
454
00:27:00,000 --> 00:27:01,600
No.
455
00:27:01,640 --> 00:27:03,760
Oh, no, no. It's an image...
456
00:27:03,800 --> 00:27:05,440
of this.
457
00:27:07,160 --> 00:27:08,640
- The queen.
- Oh, cool.
458
00:27:08,680 --> 00:27:11,320
It is...
So, again, we have...
459
00:27:11,360 --> 00:27:13,280
We call British "gentlemen."
460
00:27:13,320 --> 00:27:15,320
So they are polite,
461
00:27:15,360 --> 00:27:18,480
um, cultured, uh, classy.
462
00:27:18,520 --> 00:27:20,800
Uh, but then,
463
00:27:20,840 --> 00:27:22,800
this show has been
proving me wrong.
464
00:27:22,840 --> 00:27:24,680
Oh, okay.
465
00:27:31,120 --> 00:27:32,800
Are you not very good
at drinking?
466
00:27:32,840 --> 00:27:34,640
That is wrong.
467
00:27:34,680 --> 00:27:38,360
Japanese people can hold alcohol
quite well,
468
00:27:38,400 --> 00:27:39,800
maybe better than British.
469
00:27:39,840 --> 00:27:41,240
Oh, possibly.
470
00:27:41,280 --> 00:27:44,880
Domo arigato
for bringing me here.
471
00:27:44,920 --> 00:27:47,520
Don't tell me. Don't tell me.
Don't tell me.
472
00:27:50,400 --> 00:27:51,760
You're taking too long.
473
00:27:51,800 --> 00:27:53,256
My foam is getting thinner
and thinner.
474
00:27:53,280 --> 00:27:54,800
What's...?
Give me the first letter.
475
00:27:54,840 --> 00:27:56,720
- Ka.
- Ka.
476
00:27:56,760 --> 00:27:58,760
- Ka. Kampai.
- Kampai.
477
00:27:59,800 --> 00:28:01,280
- Kampai.
- Kampai.
478
00:28:01,320 --> 00:28:02,680
- Kampai.
- Kam...
479
00:28:02,720 --> 00:28:04,136
To all those who aren't
having a beer, kampai.
480
00:28:04,160 --> 00:28:05,640
Sorry, everyone.
481
00:28:10,680 --> 00:28:12,320
- This is great.
- Yeah.
482
00:28:12,360 --> 00:28:15,320
Right, then. Where to next?
483
00:28:17,120 --> 00:28:20,000
No, not there.
484
00:28:20,040 --> 00:28:22,160
Here.
485
00:28:24,800 --> 00:28:27,400
As a keen student of haiku,
486
00:28:27,440 --> 00:28:32,720
nearby Matsushima Bay
holds particular significance.
487
00:28:32,760 --> 00:28:34,520
Now, back in the 17th century,
488
00:28:34,560 --> 00:28:37,840
the Japanese scholar
Hayashi Gaho identified
489
00:28:37,880 --> 00:28:39,880
the three perfect views
of the country.
490
00:28:39,920 --> 00:28:42,680
One of them is a sandbar
outside Kyoto,
491
00:28:42,720 --> 00:28:45,360
another is a temple
outside Hiroshima,
492
00:28:45,400 --> 00:28:48,480
and the third, probably
the most famous, is this one...
493
00:28:48,520 --> 00:28:52,760
The island group of Matsushima,
over 260 of them.
494
00:28:52,800 --> 00:28:55,040
And they're absolutely gorgeous.
495
00:28:55,080 --> 00:28:56,976
And it must be said that
the Japanese have even managed
496
00:28:57,000 --> 00:28:58,400
to miniaturize the view,
497
00:28:58,440 --> 00:29:00,400
'cause some of these islands
are really tiny.
498
00:29:00,440 --> 00:29:02,640
They're no bigger than a garage,
and they're all covered
499
00:29:02,680 --> 00:29:04,320
in tiny little bonsai trees.
500
00:29:04,360 --> 00:29:06,320
It's fantastic.
Look at that one over there.
501
00:29:11,600 --> 00:29:14,520
One of the best known
of the old Japanese haiku
502
00:29:14,560 --> 00:29:16,680
is, in fact,
about Matsushima Bay.
503
00:29:16,720 --> 00:29:18,840
For a long time,
it was attributed to Basho,
504
00:29:18,880 --> 00:29:20,920
the greatest
of the haiku masters,
505
00:29:21,000 --> 00:29:22,840
but actually,
more recent scholarship suggests
506
00:29:22,880 --> 00:29:26,080
that is wasn't by him at all,
because it wasn't recorded
507
00:29:26,120 --> 00:29:28,280
until over a hundred years
after his death.
508
00:29:28,320 --> 00:29:30,080
But it doesn't actually matter
who wrote it,
509
00:29:30,120 --> 00:29:32,520
because whoever it was
was so overcome
510
00:29:32,560 --> 00:29:33,920
with the beauty of this place,
511
00:29:34,000 --> 00:29:35,360
that all he could
come up with was,
512
00:29:35,400 --> 00:29:37,040
"Matsushima ya
513
00:29:37,080 --> 00:29:39,040
"Ah, matsushima ya,
514
00:29:39,080 --> 00:29:40,680
Matsushima ya."
515
00:29:40,720 --> 00:29:42,360
Which is usually translated as,
516
00:29:42,400 --> 00:29:44,840
"Matsushima, Matsushima.
517
00:29:44,880 --> 00:29:47,000
Oh, Matsushima."
518
00:29:56,880 --> 00:29:58,360
It is annoying, this.
519
00:29:58,400 --> 00:30:00,216
I've been standing here
for something like half an hour,
520
00:30:00,240 --> 00:30:03,480
trying to compose my own haiku
about Matsushima Bay,
521
00:30:03,520 --> 00:30:05,720
and I can see
why it was so difficult,
522
00:30:05,760 --> 00:30:10,320
because it somehow eludes
description in 17 syllables.
523
00:30:10,360 --> 00:30:12,880
Which is quite annoying, really,
'cause I'm about...
524
00:30:12,920 --> 00:30:14,360
oh, five minutes away
525
00:30:14,400 --> 00:30:16,920
from my first lesson
in Japanese calligraphy.
526
00:30:17,000 --> 00:30:19,800
And I wanted something nice
to write.
527
00:30:19,840 --> 00:30:22,280
I've got one idea.
528
00:30:24,120 --> 00:30:26,520
This is Kishi Keiko,
529
00:30:26,560 --> 00:30:29,320
one of Japan's
leading calligraphy experts.
530
00:30:29,360 --> 00:30:32,600
I hope my poem is worthy
of her talents.
531
00:30:35,320 --> 00:30:37,880
J-masu May.
532
00:30:37,920 --> 00:30:39,600
That's my name!
533
00:30:39,640 --> 00:30:42,120
- J... m...
- J-masu.
534
00:30:42,160 --> 00:30:43,760
- J-masu.
- J-masu.
535
00:30:43,800 --> 00:30:45,216
May. J... That's how
they say "James" in Japan.
536
00:30:45,240 --> 00:30:46,920
They say "J-masu."
537
00:30:47,000 --> 00:30:48,760
It's beautiful.
It's beautiful
538
00:30:48,800 --> 00:30:50,840
because I don't know
what it says. You just think,
539
00:30:50,880 --> 00:30:52,440
"That's a fabulous picture."
540
00:30:52,480 --> 00:30:54,096
If you knew
that it just says "James May,"
541
00:30:54,120 --> 00:30:56,056
it loses some of its appeal,
to be brutally frank.
542
00:30:56,080 --> 00:30:58,760
Okay, I'm going
to show you my haiku.
543
00:30:58,800 --> 00:31:01,560
- "Ah, Matsushima."
- Yeah.
544
00:31:01,600 --> 00:31:04,240
"Basho gasharishi.
545
00:31:04,280 --> 00:31:07,040
Oh, Matsuo, oh, Basho."
546
00:31:07,080 --> 00:31:10,440
- Oh, very good.
- Is it? It means...
547
00:31:10,480 --> 00:31:12,720
"Ah, Matsushima.
548
00:31:12,760 --> 00:31:14,640
"Basho has long departed.
549
00:31:14,680 --> 00:31:16,600
We are lost for words."
550
00:31:18,520 --> 00:31:21,280
Within moments, sensei Keiko
has rendered my haiku
551
00:31:21,320 --> 00:31:23,840
into the cursive style
of calligraphy...
552
00:31:23,880 --> 00:31:26,760
The quickest,
and hopefully simplest, type
553
00:31:26,800 --> 00:31:28,360
for me to attempt to copy.
554
00:31:28,400 --> 00:31:30,120
So what we have here is...
555
00:31:30,160 --> 00:31:33,720
Um, this is quite common.
It's a combination of kanji,
556
00:31:33,760 --> 00:31:35,920
which is the pure
pictorial language,
557
00:31:36,000 --> 00:31:38,200
which was adopted
from the Chinese,
558
00:31:38,240 --> 00:31:41,120
and hirigana,
which is more like a...
559
00:31:41,160 --> 00:31:42,720
It's-it's closer to our writing.
560
00:31:42,760 --> 00:31:45,920
It is phonemes
or vowel sounds or letters,
561
00:31:46,000 --> 00:31:48,400
as single squiggles,
but they can be combined.
562
00:31:48,440 --> 00:31:50,400
So this is a mixture of the two,
563
00:31:50,440 --> 00:31:52,720
which is why
some of it looks like pictures,
564
00:31:52,760 --> 00:31:56,320
some of it almost looks
like Arabic.
565
00:31:56,360 --> 00:31:58,680
One...
566
00:31:58,720 --> 00:32:00,400
This is tremendously good fun.
567
00:32:00,440 --> 00:32:02,920
Slide. Slide.
568
00:32:03,000 --> 00:32:05,520
- Mm...
- You're okay.
569
00:32:05,560 --> 00:32:08,040
- All right, shall we do a...
- Uh...
570
00:32:08,080 --> 00:32:10,240
sensei versus
student comparison?
571
00:32:17,080 --> 00:32:18,480
Sumimasen.
572
00:32:18,520 --> 00:32:20,480
Oh. Sumimasen.
573
00:32:20,520 --> 00:32:22,360
I know.
574
00:32:22,400 --> 00:32:24,480
Uh, here is my gift to you.
575
00:32:24,520 --> 00:32:25,880
Domo arigato.
576
00:32:25,920 --> 00:32:27,280
Thank you.
577
00:32:27,320 --> 00:32:28,880
What I lack in brushmanship,
578
00:32:28,920 --> 00:32:30,840
I make up for in cunning.
579
00:32:30,880 --> 00:32:32,640
That was what I was hoping for.
580
00:32:32,680 --> 00:32:34,560
Domo arigato gozaimas.
581
00:32:37,720 --> 00:32:39,480
What an excellent exchange.
582
00:32:39,520 --> 00:32:44,240
I now own my haiku,
but written by a master.
583
00:32:45,320 --> 00:32:47,080
That is priceless.
584
00:32:49,240 --> 00:32:51,200
That was fantastic.
I loved that.
585
00:32:51,240 --> 00:32:54,280
And, finally...
586
00:32:54,320 --> 00:32:56,600
the mystery of Matsushima
is recorded
587
00:32:56,640 --> 00:32:59,760
in verse on paper for posterity.
588
00:32:59,800 --> 00:33:02,360
Remember you saw it here first.
589
00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:08,560
The islands of Matsushima
are not just
590
00:33:08,600 --> 00:33:10,000
aesthetically inspiring.
591
00:33:10,040 --> 00:33:11,720
They also buffered the bay
from the worst
592
00:33:11,760 --> 00:33:16,040
of the 2011 earthquake
and tsunami.
593
00:33:16,080 --> 00:33:19,560
The magnitude-nine earthquake
was so massive,
594
00:33:19,600 --> 00:33:23,560
it moved Honshu island
eastward by eight feet.
595
00:33:23,600 --> 00:33:26,840
Over 15,000 people died
in the tsunami,
596
00:33:26,880 --> 00:33:29,640
and two and a half thousand
are still unaccounted for.
597
00:33:30,760 --> 00:33:32,600
And in Fukushima,
598
00:33:32,640 --> 00:33:35,000
the tsunami caused
three reactor core meltdowns
599
00:33:35,040 --> 00:33:37,600
at the nuclear power station,
600
00:33:37,640 --> 00:33:40,760
the second-worst nuclear
accident in history.
601
00:33:46,040 --> 00:33:48,760
So, in a few kilometers time,
we're going to get to the edge
602
00:33:48,800 --> 00:33:51,360
of the restricted zone
around the power station.
603
00:33:51,400 --> 00:33:54,200
You can drive through it,
but you're not supposed to stop,
604
00:33:54,240 --> 00:33:56,480
you're not supposed to get out.
605
00:33:56,520 --> 00:34:00,240
Um, you're not supposed to pick
anything up or take it away.
606
00:34:05,160 --> 00:34:08,160
- Oh, it's all closed.
- Yeah, it's all closed.
607
00:34:08,200 --> 00:34:10,680
No one is here.
608
00:34:10,720 --> 00:34:13,320
- No one is allowed.
- Oh, there's just a load
609
00:34:13,360 --> 00:34:16,160
-of new cars parked there
all covered in weeds.
-Yeah.
610
00:34:20,520 --> 00:34:22,560
After restrictions
were lifted two years ago,
611
00:34:22,600 --> 00:34:26,159
900 residents returned
to the nearby town of Namie,
612
00:34:26,160 --> 00:34:28,560
which originally had
a population of around
613
00:34:28,600 --> 00:34:31,640
17 and a half thousand.
614
00:34:31,680 --> 00:34:33,800
The government has assured
these residents
615
00:34:33,840 --> 00:34:37,040
that the radiation levels
are safe.
616
00:34:38,640 --> 00:34:40,416
We should just explain,
we have this little...
617
00:34:40,440 --> 00:34:42,920
Actually,
it's going up slightly.
618
00:34:42,960 --> 00:34:45,320
We're at 0.21 nanosieverts
619
00:34:45,360 --> 00:34:47,680
of radiation, which is okay,
620
00:34:47,760 --> 00:34:49,440
as we're only here
for a short time.
621
00:34:49,480 --> 00:34:52,520
0.24.
622
00:34:52,560 --> 00:34:56,560
0.35. It's going up
quite quickly, though.
623
00:34:56,600 --> 00:34:59,560
-Do you mind keeping
an eye on that?
-Yes.
624
00:35:01,600 --> 00:35:03,920
- Oh, it's beeping.
- What are we up to?
625
00:35:03,960 --> 00:35:06,120
0.52.
626
00:35:06,160 --> 00:35:08,480
It says "harmful."
627
00:35:14,840 --> 00:35:17,760
We're now on the edge
of the safe zone.
628
00:35:17,800 --> 00:35:19,800
Look at this.
629
00:35:19,840 --> 00:35:21,400
Oh. Hang on,
630
00:35:21,440 --> 00:35:24,160
let's have a look at this.
This is very bad.
631
00:35:24,200 --> 00:35:28,520
Geez, that's 4.94.
632
00:35:28,560 --> 00:35:30,320
That's dangerously high.
633
00:35:30,360 --> 00:35:33,639
I'm not sure anybody
should be here.
634
00:35:33,640 --> 00:35:37,560
It's supposed to be safe
to be back.
635
00:35:37,600 --> 00:35:40,400
Well, that's what alarms me.
636
00:35:40,440 --> 00:35:42,400
Everybody says this
is the edge of the zone,
637
00:35:42,440 --> 00:35:44,400
and you should be
quite safe here,
638
00:35:44,440 --> 00:35:46,536
-but that's actually the highest
reading we've had...
-Yeah.
639
00:35:46,560 --> 00:35:48,480
And that thing was calibrated
this morning.
640
00:35:48,520 --> 00:35:49,776
- Yeah.
- Let's-let's take it with us
641
00:35:49,800 --> 00:35:51,280
- and see what it does.
- Yeah.
642
00:35:51,320 --> 00:35:52,440
Let's-let's do it.
643
00:35:52,480 --> 00:35:54,440
- Oh, it went off.
- Oh, there you go.
644
00:35:54,480 --> 00:35:56,920
- 1.27.
- I think it's-it's...
645
00:35:57,000 --> 00:35:58,920
- Where...
- It's when I open the door.
646
00:35:59,000 --> 00:36:00,520
Do you think this is...
647
00:36:00,560 --> 00:36:03,160
Well, we can't have
a radiation-proof Toyota.
648
00:36:06,080 --> 00:36:08,800
- Does it...
- No, that doesn't...
649
00:36:08,840 --> 00:36:10,520
Maybe if Maki
650
00:36:10,560 --> 00:36:12,320
turned it off
and then turned it on again,
651
00:36:12,360 --> 00:36:14,639
we'd be okay.
652
00:36:14,640 --> 00:36:18,160
Looking left and right
is just rather a cursory...
653
00:36:18,200 --> 00:36:21,600
I've arranged to meet
Oshimizu Kazuki...
654
00:36:21,640 --> 00:36:24,000
Konnichiwa.
655
00:36:24,040 --> 00:36:26,056
One of the residents who,
along with his wife and baby,
656
00:36:26,080 --> 00:36:28,200
decided to move back.
657
00:36:29,640 --> 00:36:31,600
What made you come back?
658
00:36:31,640 --> 00:36:34,880
Because you're obviously not
gonna get that many customers.
659
00:36:41,440 --> 00:36:44,960
And, uh, were you here
when the meltdown happened?
660
00:36:53,800 --> 00:36:57,680
And, um, is it, is it safe
to live here?
661
00:36:57,760 --> 00:37:02,360
Because we are reading
2.7 nanosieverts,
662
00:37:02,400 --> 00:37:04,639
-We had almost five
down the road.
-Hai, hai, hai.
663
00:37:04,640 --> 00:37:06,080
Is it, is it safe?
664
00:37:38,800 --> 00:37:41,880
Has this car been here
since the disaster?
- Hai.
665
00:37:41,920 --> 00:37:44,040
That's-that's interesting,
because...
666
00:37:45,160 --> 00:37:46,680
No, actually,
when you get close to it,
667
00:37:46,760 --> 00:37:49,080
you can see
that it's been standing here.
668
00:37:49,120 --> 00:37:51,600
So, that's quite unusual
to see rust.
669
00:37:51,640 --> 00:37:53,160
No...
670
00:37:55,000 --> 00:37:57,639
Oh, no, that's just still got
the telephone charging cable
671
00:37:57,640 --> 00:38:00,920
plugged into
the power socket. Oh...
672
00:38:02,960 --> 00:38:05,639
It's probably...
Probably shouldn't really... ugh.
673
00:38:05,640 --> 00:38:07,440
It's actually open.
674
00:38:07,480 --> 00:38:10,280
I won't touch it. It's-it's bad.
675
00:38:22,120 --> 00:38:25,800
Is it not difficult,
living here now,
676
00:38:25,840 --> 00:38:29,280
knowing that a lot of your
friends will never come back?
677
00:38:44,160 --> 00:38:47,280
It does seem a bit nosy,
but it is just remarkable
678
00:38:47,320 --> 00:38:49,320
that you can still see, there...
679
00:38:50,640 --> 00:38:52,600
the signs
of instantaneous abandonment.
680
00:38:52,640 --> 00:38:55,639
I mean, there is still
kitchen stuff,
681
00:38:55,640 --> 00:38:57,639
everyday, really everyday stuff.
682
00:38:57,640 --> 00:39:00,320
That's what makes it
seem tragic.
683
00:39:04,080 --> 00:39:07,000
It's hard to imagine
what Oshimizu has been through,
684
00:39:07,040 --> 00:39:10,440
but it's clear to me that he
wants to be seen as a survivor,
685
00:39:10,480 --> 00:39:12,080
and not a victim.
686
00:39:12,120 --> 00:39:14,080
Well, I think that's
quite remarkable really,
687
00:39:14,120 --> 00:39:17,520
because as a firefighter, he was
one of the last people out,
688
00:39:17,560 --> 00:39:20,680
and as a restaurateur, he was
one of the first people back in.
689
00:39:20,760 --> 00:39:22,680
We could probably learn
something from that.
690
00:39:22,760 --> 00:39:26,080
And also, I think what
he's doing is remarkably bold,
691
00:39:26,120 --> 00:39:28,080
so good luck to him.
692
00:39:28,120 --> 00:39:30,639
I'm gonna come back
in a couple of years.
693
00:39:30,640 --> 00:39:35,280
My visit to Namie marks the end
of my trip to Tohoku.
694
00:39:35,320 --> 00:39:37,080
It's a sobering finale
to a region
695
00:39:37,120 --> 00:39:40,280
rich in modern and ancient
Japanese rites,
696
00:39:40,320 --> 00:39:42,520
where I've been taught
the correct protocols
697
00:39:42,560 --> 00:39:47,159
for dressing, writing,
and, of course, bathing.
698
00:39:47,160 --> 00:39:50,639
And now, to invoke the spirit
of another British traveler,
699
00:39:50,640 --> 00:39:53,560
it's on to somewhere
completely different.
700
00:39:53,600 --> 00:39:54,920
I've decided to head south
701
00:39:55,000 --> 00:39:56,440
on the train.
702
00:39:56,480 --> 00:39:59,120
Now, it's about 200 miles
from here to Tokyo,
703
00:39:59,160 --> 00:40:01,800
and if I did that on one
of Japan's famous bullet trains,
704
00:40:01,840 --> 00:40:03,800
it would only take about an hour
705
00:40:03,840 --> 00:40:05,600
because they do
200 miles an hour.
706
00:40:05,640 --> 00:40:07,080
And they're not even a new idea.
707
00:40:07,120 --> 00:40:08,376
The bullet trains
have been around
708
00:40:08,400 --> 00:40:10,320
since about a year
after I was born.
709
00:40:10,360 --> 00:40:11,639
That's how old they are.
710
00:40:11,640 --> 00:40:13,159
Today, though,
711
00:40:13,160 --> 00:40:16,320
I'm going to take six hours
by train to go to Tokyo
712
00:40:16,360 --> 00:40:18,880
because I'm going
on something called...
713
00:40:18,920 --> 00:40:20,640
the Shiki-shima train,
714
00:40:20,680 --> 00:40:23,680
and it is
the most luxurious train...
715
00:40:23,760 --> 00:40:25,280
in the world.
716
00:40:34,640 --> 00:40:36,920
Konnichiwa.
717
00:40:36,960 --> 00:40:38,920
Domo arigato.
718
00:40:41,480 --> 00:40:44,120
The Shiki-shima's aesthetic
has been dreamt up
719
00:40:44,160 --> 00:40:47,280
by Ken Okuyama,
a designer who worked on
720
00:40:47,320 --> 00:40:49,800
the Ferrari Enzo
and the Porsche 911,
721
00:40:49,840 --> 00:40:51,680
the 996 series
with the funny headlights.
722
00:40:51,760 --> 00:40:53,360
There's something
of the supercar
723
00:40:53,400 --> 00:40:55,840
about this train.
724
00:40:55,880 --> 00:40:57,840
But unlike a supercar,
725
00:40:57,880 --> 00:41:00,160
it's designed to go slowly.
726
00:41:00,200 --> 00:41:02,640
The ten-car train accommodates
727
00:41:02,680 --> 00:41:06,360
just 34 passengers in 17 suites,
728
00:41:06,400 --> 00:41:10,520
and every fixture and fitting
has been meticulously designed,
729
00:41:10,560 --> 00:41:11,920
from the traditional bentwoods
730
00:41:11,960 --> 00:41:13,800
to the handwoven carpets
731
00:41:13,840 --> 00:41:18,280
made by a company
who supply the Vatican.
732
00:41:18,320 --> 00:41:20,880
Luxury like this, of course,
doesn't come cheap,
733
00:41:20,920 --> 00:41:23,016
but thankfully, the train's
holding a press junket day
734
00:41:23,040 --> 00:41:24,440
to show itself off,
735
00:41:24,480 --> 00:41:28,040
and we've blagged our way
on board.
736
00:41:28,080 --> 00:41:30,480
It is absolutely exquisite
on here.
737
00:41:30,520 --> 00:41:32,800
All the details,
the lights, the woodwork,
738
00:41:32,840 --> 00:41:35,840
the aluminum, the tablecloth,
it's-it's just fantastic.
739
00:41:35,880 --> 00:41:38,360
You can stay on this train
for up to four days,
740
00:41:38,400 --> 00:41:40,800
in which case
the ticket will cost you
741
00:41:40,840 --> 00:41:42,880
a trifling £8,000.
742
00:41:42,920 --> 00:41:44,640
But everything about it
is fabulous.
743
00:41:44,680 --> 00:41:46,680
The Orient Express
is often referred to
744
00:41:46,760 --> 00:41:48,680
as the Shiki-shima of Europe.
745
00:41:48,760 --> 00:41:51,080
In a moment,
I'm going to be served
746
00:41:51,120 --> 00:41:54,440
the first course
of my French lunch
747
00:41:54,480 --> 00:41:58,760
made by a Michelin-starred
Japanese chef.
748
00:42:01,400 --> 00:42:03,640
And, in fact, here it comes now.
749
00:42:03,680 --> 00:42:06,320
You'd almost think
we'd arranged it.
750
00:42:07,640 --> 00:42:10,160
Mmm. Domo arigato.
751
00:42:14,800 --> 00:42:18,280
It's a sliver of raw salmon
752
00:42:18,320 --> 00:42:20,920
anointed with some leaves,
753
00:42:21,000 --> 00:42:24,760
a tiny little piece
of spring onion and a flower.
754
00:42:24,800 --> 00:42:26,800
And...
755
00:42:28,800 --> 00:42:30,800
And that.
756
00:42:32,440 --> 00:42:34,440
Excellent.
757
00:42:41,560 --> 00:42:43,160
- No, no, no, no, no, no!
- No, no!
758
00:42:43,200 --> 00:42:44,480
You can't eat!
759
00:42:46,760 --> 00:42:49,040
I'm not supposed to eat it?
760
00:42:49,080 --> 00:42:52,159
What am I supposed to do
with it?
761
00:42:52,160 --> 00:42:55,920
There's another media who want
to film this food, this lunch.
762
00:42:55,960 --> 00:42:57,560
You can't eat.
763
00:42:57,600 --> 00:43:00,480
- Somebody else
wants to film my lunch?
Yes.
764
00:43:00,520 --> 00:43:02,920
- Why don't they get
their own bloody lunch?
765
00:43:03,000 --> 00:43:05,080
Tickets are £8,000...
What...
766
00:43:05,120 --> 00:43:06,760
Seriously,
I'm not supposed to eat it?
767
00:43:06,800 --> 00:43:08,200
You are not supposed to eat.
768
00:43:08,280 --> 00:43:09,736
You are supposed to allow
other people.
769
00:43:09,760 --> 00:43:12,160
Okay, so you have to stand up
and we have to let other media
770
00:43:12,200 --> 00:43:13,800
to come in and film.
771
00:43:13,840 --> 00:43:16,360
Anyway, it's the best compliment
you can pay a chef,
772
00:43:16,400 --> 00:43:18,520
to say, "Mmm, that's nice,"
and start eating it.
773
00:43:18,560 --> 00:43:20,680
Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
774
00:43:20,760 --> 00:43:23,320
But you have to respect
other media, as well, right?
775
00:43:25,400 --> 00:43:26,760
Hurry, hurry.
776
00:43:26,800 --> 00:43:28,640
Are they very angry?
777
00:43:28,680 --> 00:43:31,360
Yeah. The lady look at me.
778
00:43:31,400 --> 00:43:33,680
Like, she got this... look.
779
00:43:33,760 --> 00:43:37,920
And then she look at me
as if I didn't explain to you.
780
00:43:37,960 --> 00:43:39,840
So there's other
camerapeople on here.
781
00:43:39,880 --> 00:43:41,440
Right.
782
00:43:41,480 --> 00:43:44,320
- So they all film
the same lunch?
Mm-hmm.
783
00:43:44,360 --> 00:43:46,600
So the other people are
going to take pictures of it,
784
00:43:46,640 --> 00:43:48,456
say, "Look at the exquisite food
on the Shiki-shima train,"
785
00:43:48,480 --> 00:43:50,080
but there's actually
a bit missing
786
00:43:50,120 --> 00:43:51,776
- 'cause I've eaten it.
- Exactly. Because you ate.
787
00:43:51,800 --> 00:43:53,560
It's all your fault.
788
00:43:53,600 --> 00:43:55,840
You will have to do gomanasai,
so you have to practice.
789
00:43:55,880 --> 00:43:58,600
Okay, I will go
and say sumimasen.
790
00:43:58,640 --> 00:44:01,160
- Yeah.
- Douitashimashite.
791
00:44:01,200 --> 00:44:03,800
No, you don't say
douitashimashite to yourself.
792
00:44:03,840 --> 00:44:06,600
You don't say,
"I'm sorry and you're welcome."
793
00:44:06,640 --> 00:44:08,080
No.
794
00:44:08,120 --> 00:44:10,080
Uh, sorry. Sumimasen.
795
00:44:10,120 --> 00:44:11,920
- No, no, no, no.
- I didn't mean to eat...
796
00:44:12,000 --> 00:44:15,240
eat the salmon sake starter.
797
00:44:15,280 --> 00:44:17,560
Sumimasen.
798
00:44:17,600 --> 00:44:21,040
- Oy.
- The sake. Sumimasen.
799
00:44:21,080 --> 00:44:22,520
Ah, chef, sumimasen.
800
00:44:22,560 --> 00:44:23,920
Sumimasen about the salmon.
801
00:44:24,000 --> 00:44:25,656
Could you say,
"I'm sorry about the salmon"?
802
00:44:25,680 --> 00:44:27,760
Sumimasen.
803
00:44:27,800 --> 00:44:32,120
After the entire train had
accepted my prostrate shame,
804
00:44:32,160 --> 00:44:34,720
the chef took pity on me
and gave me some edible lunch.
805
00:44:38,240 --> 00:44:41,040
Though, of course, I was now
too nervous to eat it.
806
00:44:41,080 --> 00:44:43,720
So just to be clear,
can James eat this food or not?
807
00:44:43,760 --> 00:44:44,920
Yes, so James can eat.
808
00:44:45,000 --> 00:44:47,760
I can eat this food?
809
00:44:47,800 --> 00:44:49,480
Yes, you can eat.
810
00:44:49,520 --> 00:44:51,920
Can I have a glass of wine,
or does The New York Times
811
00:44:51,960 --> 00:44:53,520
want to take a photograph of it?
812
00:44:53,560 --> 00:44:55,040
Am I allowed to eat that?
813
00:44:55,080 --> 00:44:57,040
- Yes.
- And that?
814
00:44:57,080 --> 00:44:59,360
- Yes, everything.
- And that? Mmm.
815
00:45:05,040 --> 00:45:07,720
Mmm, that's nice. Mmm.
816
00:45:16,720 --> 00:45:19,720
Tokyo. Excellent!
817
00:45:19,760 --> 00:45:21,760
Come on.
818
00:45:24,720 --> 00:45:27,120
Could you get my bags?
That would be marvelous.
819
00:45:27,160 --> 00:45:30,320
Next time, Japan's capital.
820
00:45:33,000 --> 00:45:34,560
♪ I'm so naughty, naughty ♪
821
00:45:34,600 --> 00:45:37,000
♪ You're so naughty, naughty,
I want to dance... ♪
822
00:45:37,040 --> 00:45:38,200
Uh, here.
823
00:45:38,240 --> 00:45:40,840
♪ I'm so pretty, pretty ♪
824
00:45:40,880 --> 00:45:43,360
♪ You're so cutie, cutie,
I want to dance... ♪
825
00:45:43,400 --> 00:45:45,680
I wonder where it is.
826
00:45:47,800 --> 00:45:50,920
♪ I want to dance ♪
827
00:45:50,960 --> 00:45:54,280
♪ Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa ♪
828
00:45:54,320 --> 00:45:56,400
♪ Whoa, whoa,
whoa, whoa ♪
829
00:45:56,440 --> 00:46:01,040
♪ Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa... ♪
830
00:46:04,080 --> 00:46:07,360
♪ I'm so naughty, naughty,
you're so naughty, naughty ♪
831
00:46:07,400 --> 00:46:08,760
♪ I want to dance... ♪
832
00:46:08,800 --> 00:46:11,000
What... Uh, uh, that could be...
833
00:46:13,400 --> 00:46:15,800
♪ You're so cutie, cutie,
I want to dance ♪
834
00:46:21,960 --> 00:46:24,000
♪ Do you want to dance? ♪
835
00:46:24,040 --> 00:46:27,280
♪ I'm so naughty, naughty,
you're so naughty, naughty ♪
836
00:46:27,320 --> 00:46:28,680
♪ I want to dance ♪
837
00:46:28,720 --> 00:46:30,960
♪ Kiss, kiss, kiss. ♪
62620
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