All language subtitles for Build Your Own RoboLamp! - CrunchLabs (720p, h264)

Welcome back to CrunchLabs. I'm Mark
Rober, and I'm so stoked that you're

because it means you are in possession
of the Hack Pack RoboLamp. Now this is

sort of our homage to that adorable
Pixar desktop lamp in robotic form. Now

little fella here has quite the
personality, and I'll get into all of

features. Over here. Hey.

Okay, in just a second, but first let's
take a look at the trophy case, which of

course is your opportunity to hack any
of the builds and take it all the way to

11. Here we've got the tank plant being
controlled by a PS5 controller, which is

really cool. And the D -pad moves the
head on the tank plant, so this is full

control. This Iron Man glove works with
the laser tag, which is really cool.

Sort of wish we had thought of that
first. Here they turned the turret and

domino boxes into a game of Russian
Roulette. Again. these hacks that

multiple hack packs I think are my
favorite. So basically it reads the

whether or not there's tape on it and
then that will determine whether or not

shoot. So straight up domino turret
Russian roulette. And I love this, again

another combo, they 3D printed their own
rotating gear piece, attached it to the

tank plant, and now you've got a
rotating sentry that of course likes to

the sunlight.

As a reminder, if you want to get your
brilliant hacks featured in the trophy

case, we've got this QR code, or you can
just upload them directly to our

Discord. As for the RoboLamp, when you
first turn it on, it powers up, clearly

is very happy to be here, and it sort of
looks just like a normal lamp. But it

gets a little distracted.

Hey, over here.

Back here. I need light right here.

So close.

But more in this direction.

Now, of course, at any point, if you
want to get his attention, you just take

over the joystick and point it exactly
where you... I said exactly where you

need it to go. That's better. And so
now, if you're working on a project

you need that blue...

I said, hey, hey, no, down here.

Thank you. And so now if you're working
on a project where you need that blue

light, it's going to shine it perfectly
exactly where you need it to be.

he's a precocious little guy so as
you'll notice there's four buttons right

and those are just presets so if i hit
one it goes orange and it goes down here

at this level if i hit two it's yellow
it's pointing this way at this height

three goes blue pointing out and finally
four is green and that's going straight

out as you might suspect those are very
easily reprogrammed even without hooking

up to a computer. So all you do is get
it to the correct height you want by

pushing this.

Let's say I want it right here.

And then you aim where you want it to
go. Let's say right there.

And finally, when you want to get the
right color, you just click down on the

joystick once.

I want a soft white. So now all I have
to do is hold down the number one and

it saves this preset. So again, I can go
four up here. Now if I press one, it

comes right back to that white light
pointing right in this direction.

Of course, it wouldn't be hack pack. We
didn't pack this thing full of

personality. As you know, here at Crunch
Labs, there's nothing we love more than

anthropomorphizing a robot.

So now if I want to cheer up our little
friend here, I just double click two.

Suddenly, he's got this wonky little
smile.

He's like a little puppy. He's happy to
be here. Okay, so that's one end of the

spectrum. But now let's say for some
cruel, cruel reason, you want to make

RoboLamp sad.

Well, then you just double -click three.

Oh, no.

He's experiencing a range of emotions.

Just hopeless.

Wait, maybe there's hope? No.

No. There's not. I'm sorry, little
fella. I shouldn't have done that to

Which is why we also have double
-clicking four, which now just snaps it

all modes. So you can position it
exactly where you want. You can change

light color to where you want. And then,
of course, you can go back to your

presets. In my case, I want to single
-press one.

Time to get to work. Speaking of wit,
makes the perfect time, transition to

talking about our gear badge topic,
LEDs.

As we've talked about before, you own an
electromagnetic wave detector.

In fact, you own two of them, and you're
using them right now, because they're

your eyes. So I look at this lamp, and
it looks purple. Well, your brain is

really telling you that a photon came
and hit that, and then reflected and hit

my eye, and the electromagnetic wave
that was reflected back, well, that had

wavelength of 400 nanometers.

Or take this switch here, which we would
say is red. What's really telling your

brain, the photon hit that, it created
an electromagnetic wave, then bounced

hit your eye, and that wavelength is
about 700 nanometers. So it's like a

bit longer.

Now for these sensors to work, we need
photons.

In other words, we need light. Now for
thousands of years, engineers have

to improve the way we create that light.
Starting first, of course, with fire,

then to torches and lanterns,
lighthouses, incandescent bulbs, and

this. An LED bulb. And the reason an LED
bulb is so amazing is there's a problem

with incandescent bulbs, which we've had
for a very long time. And that's that

they're just not very efficient at using
the energy you put into them. And that

means not only do they give off light,
they also give off a lot of heat. In

fact, I had a Care Bear stuffed animal
growing up, and I sat on top of a lamp

one time, and when I turned on the lamp
in the room, I noticed after like five

minutes... something smelled very, very
bad and was probably carcinogenic.

And forevermore, that Care Bear had a
bear spot right on its butt where the

light completely burned and melted
through all of the hair. Now that would

never happened today because we have
LEDs.

And because they're way more efficient
using that energy, even after running

them for hours and hours, they're
totally cool to detect.

This is why your energy bill is lower.
You're not wasting all that energy

not even visible. It's like going from
performing surgery with a machete versus

a scalpel. It's precise. It does exactly
just what you want it to do. But how

exactly does that work? Like, why is
that such a good deal? How does this

so bright? Well, inside every single
LED, there's a semiconductor.

Semiconductors aren't quite conductors,
like a copper wire that just let

electrons flow freely, and they aren't
quite insulators that just totally stop

the flow of electrons, like rubber.
Instead, they like kind of conduct.

You could say they semi -conduct.

Like they conduct a little bit. Because
instead, they let electrons flow in very

special ways. You can think of
semiconductors like a little cliff.

As usual, we're using some...

Very delicious electrons.

And it's just a fact, you can't convince
me otherwise, that 700 nanometer

electrons taste way better than like 450
ones. Now, at first, the electrons are

at the top of the cliff. But in reality,
they want to get to the bottom of the

cliff. Because that's low energy. It's
just the way the universe works. The

fancy word for that is entropy. Now
let's imagine that these Skittles are

electrons. They start at the top of this
cliff, you know, in the power supply.

And as they come out...

They fall off. They go to the lower
energy state. And of course, that energy

to go somewhere.

And so that energy gets released all at
once.

Now, as we mentioned before, our eyes
detect different wavelengths of

electromagnetic waves by finding them
colors in our brain. So blue here is a

wavelength of around 450 nanometers, and
red is around 700.

Now, the smaller the wavelength, in this
case blue at 450, the more energy, the

more ups and downs you get in, let's
say, a second. So it has more energy.

packing more of those waves into a given
length or time. This is why x -rays and

gamma rays are really harmful, because
they're so energetic that they

actually... damage your DNA.

But the longer wavelengths you have,
like radio waves, those are very little

energy, not at all harmful.

So then what's really special about LED
semiconductors, they're like one of

these boxes. They can specify exactly
the amount of energy that needs to be

dropped. And by doing so, they're
basically specifying the wavelength.

So in this case, at this specific
height, that energy level, when the

fall off...

That emits a little bit higher energy
blue wavelength, where in this case,

the cliff is lower, the LED
semiconductor specifies exactly that

they fall off the cliff, go to the lower
energy state. Well, that looks like red

to us.

So again, the LED semiconductor
specifies exactly the amount of energy,

electron pass through at that energy
level, and when it falls down to the

energy state through entropy, well, it
gives off that specific energy level. In

other words, that specific wavelength.

In this case, it was Crete. But
something else is happening here that's

cool. We said it's a semiconductor, so
it kind of lets it conduct, right?

notice, if I try and push these red
skittles back up the cliff...

I can't do it. The one -way door, it
only goes this way. In engineering, we

that a diode.

A diode allows the flow of electrons in
one way but blocks them in the other. In

fact, if you look at any LED, you'll see
that one lead is like a little bit

longer than the other. The longer lead
is like the top of the cliff.

The shorter lead is like the bottom. So
if I take this little coin battery and

then I hook it up, you'll notice it
works when it goes from the positive to

negative side of the coin battery
because electrons are going to flow this

If I flip it around, you'll notice the
diode is very hard at work.

Semiconductor in action. It says no
dice, you get no light from me. today.

you might be thinking though, well if
LEDs only make one specific color, I get

how you get all the colors of the
rainbow, like if we pop off our little

here. Sorry buddy. So now that the
diffuser's off, you can see the LEDs are

active under there. And indeed, they're
all making different colors. But there's

one here making white. And so if you
look really closely, you'll see there's

just three LEDs in there. A green, a
blue, and a red. Of course when you

those together, they look like white.

It's just like the sun in a prism. When
you combine all the colors, you get

white, which I think is pretty dang
cool. All right, well, now that you got

basic understanding of what's going on
here, let's go ahead and bring out Adam,

who is the product engineer, primarily
responsible for coming up with and

designing the RoboLamp. Take it away,
Adam.

Hi, I'm Adam, the lead engineer for the
Robotic Lamp, or RoboLamp for short.

Let's take a look at the cool science
that makes this thing work.

Most robotic motors move in a machine
-like way. So much so that we even talk

about things moving robotically to mean
they move in a way that's stiff and

awkward. But what makes RoboLamp so
special is it's focused on moving in

that feel lifelike. Animators have known
how to create believably real motion

for a really long time, maybe best
captured by Disney's 12 Principles of

Animation, which highlight techniques
like slow in, slow out, arcs,

action.

timing, and silhouette.

In your robot, we achieve these effects
by using a combination of sensors like

the buttons that receive user inputs,
effectors like the motors that drive the

lamp to move, and the Arduino brain,
which uses software to instruct the

on how to move. Breaking down the
anatomy of RoboLamp, we start up at the

lighting fixture, the bell, which houses
the PCB with three concentric rings of

LED lights, like the ones that Mark
talked about earlier. In the inner and

rings, we have alternating warm and cool
white LEDs, whereas in the middle ring,

we have 12 of what look like larger
LEDs, but which each actually contain

of their very own teeny tiny LEDs that
are red, green, and blue, allowing the

robot to individually change both the
color and brightness of each pixel. We

sometimes refer to these as individually
addressable RGB LEDs.

The bell's motion is determined by two
180 -degree servo motors controlling the

up -down pitch and side -to -side yaw,
which let it look around the entire

hemisphere in front of it. To raise and
lower the bell, the gear motor drives a

worm, which drives a worm gear. This
type of gear train sacrifices a little

of efficiency, but gives us a lot of
torque and also ensures that the motor

not back -drivable, which means once the
lamp is unpowered, the head will stay

wherever you put it and not collapse
into a pile. After the worm gear, the

RoboLamp uses what's called a double
-reverse four -bar linkage.

A regular four -bar linkage uses a
mechanical advantage to move one bar

with another, but the resulting movement
at the ends of the linkage actually

ends up drawing a curve. But if you slap
a second four -bar linkage on top of

the first, the curves cancel out and you
get perfectly linear movement at the

far end of the assembly. The combination
of all of these movements give the

RoboLamp a lot of functionality, but
also a lot of expressiveness. It can

up and look around inquisitively, lower
and look down pensively, and shake its

head enthusiastically.

Some of these motions have been grouped
together into what we call moods. By

double -clicking the one preset, for
example, RoboLamp enters the distracted

mood. You set it looking somewhere, and
after a few seconds, it gets a little

bored and starts looking around.

Bumping the joystick will cause it to
snap out of it and snap back to

Hey, focus up.

Double -clicking the two button sends
the lamp into its happy mood. A smiley

face pops onto its display, and it
cycles through a few custom animations.

Double -clicking the three sets the lamp
into its moody mood. It will turn blue

and purple and settle into a sad little
funk.

Finally, if you really just want your
lamp to be a lamp, double -click the 4

put it into the focus mood, where it
will be well -behaved for all of your

lighting needs.

To get a better sense of how the code is
working to support this expressiveness,

let's walk through exactly what happens
when we activate RoboLamp's happy mood.

At this point, we've double -clicked the
2 button and fired off the set mood

happy callback.

Inside this callback, we include the
parameter true, ensuring the lamp gives

visual confirmation of our selection
with a friendly yellow blink.

The set mood happy function does a few
important things.

It first switches the lamp's current
mood state to equal mood happy before

setting current animation type to equal
anim excited.

Finally, it restores the smiley face
from the startup animation in case it

disappeared by running show startup
smiley to populate the correct light for

smiling and blinking.

The happy mood actually has two types of
animation to keep things interesting.

The first is a default behavior that
makes the lamp look around excitedly

idle. The lamp reads its current
position and can wander around with a

update happy mood. The second type of
animation is the most dynamic, the

keyframe animations.

Keyframe sequences are a series of
timestamps and positions in space that

robot can orient towards sequentially.
Shifting the placement and number of

keyframes can significantly change the
animation.

The lamp selects a pre -made keyframe
sequence using load excited animation

drops it into its memory buffer.

Because we're in happy mood, we're going
to need a happy face.

As long as config smiley is enabled, the
function draw smiley face will keep the

face animated.

while the keyframe playback is driving
the line's motion.

Every time we pass through the code's
main loop function, we have to activate

update keyframe playback, which then
calls play keyframe animation.

It asks, how far through this keyframe's
duration are we? It tracks the progress

through the keyframe, then applies
easing, or as animators call it, slow

slow out. Easing is one technique that
we use to make robots feel less robotic,

rather than just beelining from one
position to another as fast as we can.

calculate values on the way to the
position so we can speed up and slow

naturally as we leave the starting point
and arrive at the end point. Another

animation technique we use is to specify
the arc of each motion. We can set the

lamp to move linearly from point to
point, or follow a smooth motion called

Bezier curve.

Moving linearly is going to feel a
little more intentional, like if you're

looking just straight from left to
right, whereas following a Bezier curve

going to look more like you're bobbing
your head to music. In both of these

cases, play keyframe animation will
compute the yaw and pitch based on where

lamp should be looking, and then assign
the servos those positions at every

point along the keyframe's duration.

Sometimes when the RoboLamp is moving
through keyframes, it gets to the end of

its range of motion. When this happens
in the height axis, for example, instead

of letting the four bar linkages jam and
the motor stall, which definitely

happened during prototyping, I had to
reduce the length of threads on the worm

to stop the motion. This had an actually
unexpected animating effect of making

the robot bounce up and down, so I ended
up including it in the third animation.

Is it a feature or a bug? You'll have to
tell me.

When the last keyframe finishes, play
keyframe animation ends the sequence by

calling finish keyframe playback,
returning the lamp to the idle behavior

update happy mood. In this way, the lamp
switches seamlessly between moving

around idly and playing its defined
keyframe animations, which makes it feel

less repetitive.

There's so many ways you can adjust the
animations of your lamp. You can do

everything from changing the order of
the moods to adjusting the timing, or

coming up with your own keyframe
sequences to animate. Everything is

to you in our widget in the IDE.

All right, now let's put this thing
together.

First, find four small black bolts, four
small black nuts, and the joystick

module. Thread the bolts through the
joystick module's four mounting holes

capture the bolts with the nut. Pro tip,
use the back of the screwdriver to

tighten the nut. Next, find the adhesive
mounted feet and the lower base piece.

Apply five feet to the base over the
engraved circles.

Flip the base piece over. Find four more
small black nuts. Mount the joystick to

the base by passing the bolts through
these four holes on the base piece and

attach it with the nut.

Find the black gear motor and the gear
motor mount.

Insert the gear motor into the gear
motor mount so the light purple worm

onto the mount's pronged bearing
surface.

Grab two long silver 25 millimeter
bolts.

Pass them through the black gear motor
and thread them into the gear motor

mount. Locate the potentiometer and
unthread the nut that comes with it.

the potentiometer through the gear motor
mount and capture it with the nut. Pro

tip, use the hex tool in the fork to
tighten this nut. Find four small black

bolts. Attach the gear motor mount to
the base plate, being careful not to

-tighten the bolt. Grab the motor
driver, two black 10mm M3 bolts, and two

nuts. Thread the bolts through the motor
driver's mounting holes and capture in

place with the nut.

Locate two more nuts.

Mount the whole motor driver assembly
onto the base plate by passing the bolts

through the two back mounting holes and
capture on the other side with two more

nuts. Plug the motor into the motor
driver, making sure that the little tab

the JST connector fits correctly into
the socket. Find the motor driver

connector wires.

Plug them into the corresponding socket
on the motor driver.

Grab five long 25 millimeter black
standoffs and five black nuts.

Pass the standoff threaded portions into
the five mounting holes on the base

plate and capture with the nuts.

Locate the membrane button pad and top
plate. Pass the DuPont socket through

wire management hole below the Hack Pack
logo.

Peel the sticker backing off the
membrane button pad and press down into

designated rectangular engraving. Peel
the sticker off the light purple foam

piece on the DuPont socket and stick it
to the underside of the top plate. Find

the membrane button pad connector wires.

Feed the plug side through the bottom
wire management slot and plug the

into the membrane button pad. Grab the
momentary up and down toggle. Pass the

wires through its rectangular slot and
pop it down into place.

Feed the wires from the toggle up
through the corresponding wire

slot. Pass the wires from the joystick
and motor driver up through their wire

management slots in the upper plate and
the wires from the potentiometer through

the large gear motor cutout in the
center of the upper plate. The upper

should come to rest on the lower plate's
25 millimeter standoff. Find five small

black M3 screws.

Align the lower plate standoffs with the
mounting holes on the upper plate and

screw it in place.

Locate the smaller clevis pin, the
cotter pin, the aluminum tube labeled 1,

the purple worm gear. Insert the worm
gear into the end of the aluminum tube

closest to the long slot. Then drop the
clevis pin into the hole and insert the

cotter pin into the clevis pin to lock
everything together.

Pro tip, make sure to use the short
clevis pin.

Find the long webbed data wires and the
long power wires.

Separate the webbed data wires into
three units by peeling them apart.

Feed them into the slot in the aluminum
tube and out the back end. Next, find a

long 25 millimeter M3 bolt. Drop the
worm gear into the gear motor mount and

onto the worm, making sure it sits flat
on the upper plate parallel with the

ground. Drive the bolt through the mount
and the worm gear and tighten into the

threads on the far side of the mount.
Pro tip, tighten fully then loosen a

quarter turn to prevent it from getting
stuck.

Find the small lavender pinion gear and
press it onto the potentiometer. Make

sure when it's fully depressed that it
meshes with the worm gear. It may take a

little force to mesh properly.

Pro tip, make sure the arrows on the
gears are pointing at each other when

gear is pressed into place.

Locate the breadboard assembly.

Peel off its sticker backing and drop it
down through the gap in the upper

plate, making sure the on -off button is
pointed towards you. Press down

securely to adhere to the bottom base
plate.

Now plug in the wires from the joystick.

Then plug in the wires from the
momentary up -down switch.

Next plug in the wires from the motor
driver.

Now plug in the wires from the membrane
button. Feed the wires from the

potentiometer through the wire
management slot in the first aluminum

plug them into the breadboard.

Plug the wires from the first aluminum
tube into the remaining breadboard slot.

At the other end of the first aluminum
tube, take the extra length of wire and

feed them through one rubber end stopper
and press the stopper into place in the

aluminum tube.

Locate the two smaller polypropylene
finger guard pieces, as well as a small

threaded rod.

Feed the rod through a finger guard
piece, the aluminum tube, and then the

second guard piece.

Pro tip, wiggle the rod so that the
wires don't get in your way. Find the

purple end caps and screw them on. to
the threaded rod, pinching the finger

guard pieces in place.

Note that the finger guard pieces should
be pointing up. Grab one of the elbow

gears as well as the aluminum tube
labeled with a 2.

Pop the gear into the side of the tube
closest to the 2. Note which side the A

is pointing so you can match it later.
Locate the two larger polypropylene

finger guard pieces and pop them onto
the elbow gear. Find another threaded

and two more purple end caps.

Pass the threaded rod through the first
finger guard, the aluminum rod, and the

second finger guard and capture
everything in place with the end cap.

Grab another long silver 25 millimeter
bolt, drop the second aluminum tube

assembly into the black gear motor
mount, then pin in place using the

tip, tighten the bolt fully, then loosen
a quarter turn so the aluminum tube

doesn't bind.

Check to make sure the smaller finger
guard is behind the larger finger guard.

If it's not, pull the larger finger
guard to the outside before the next

Pick up the third aluminum tube and the
second elbow gear. Pop the gear into the

tube so that the A side is facing the
same direction as the number Number

set the third aluminum tube onto the
second. This is easiest if the lamp base

sitting flat on a table and the first
and second bars are parallel with the

table. Check once more to make sure that
your A sides are pointed in the same

direction and that the little notch
between your gears lines up. Find a long

clevis pin, the cotter pin, and the two
wooden elbow guards.

Sandwich them on the two elbow gears.

Pass the clevis pin through one wooden
elbow guard and the first aluminum tube,

being careful to separate the wires as
you pass. it through, and finally

the second wooden guard. Hold it in
place with a cotter pin. Grab the fourth

aluminum tube and another rubber end
cap. Take the ends of your data and

wires and feed them through the cap and
the aluminum tube. Then press the cap

into place.

Find another long clevis pin as well as
another cotter pin. Drop the fourth

aluminum tube into the space between the
wooden elbow guard.

Pin everything together with the clevis
pin, then drop a cotter pin into the end

of the clevis pin to secure.

Locate three more end caps and pop them
into the second, third, and fourth

tubes. Find two long black M3 bolts and
the upper fork.

Slide the forks down over the third and
fourth aluminum tubes.

The wires should be able to fold through
the forks and should not be pinched

underneath. Secure the forks with the
two bolts.

Pro tip, wiggle the bolts to pass them
between the wires. Tighten both, then

loosen a quarter turn so the forks don't
bind.

Unpack the light PCB helper board as
well as the helper board connector

Plug the wires into the board. You may
need pliers to gently squeeze this

connector into place.

Locate three short black standoffs and
three nuts.

Install the standoffs into the helper
board and secure with the nuts. Grab the

main light PCB.

Plug the other end of the helper board
connector wires into the light PCB.

Find three small M3 bolts and use them
to secure the main light PCB to the

helper board's three standoffs.

Locate the pitch servo and the yaw servo
assembly.

Press the pitch servo into the yaw
servo's attached mount, making sure the

of the mount's circular bearing surface
pitch servo's neural axle are collinear.

Grab two small black M3 bolts. Using the
bolts, attach the pitch servo to the

yaw servo's mount. Find the lower
plastic bell piece.

Pass the yaw servo up into the bell
piece, keeping the yaw servo's wires

towards the back of the bell.

Locate two more small M3 bolts.

Pass them through the lower bell pieces
mounting holes and thread them into the

yaw servo. Flip the main PCB assembly
around so you're looking at the back

plug the yaw servo into the socket
labeled yaw and the pitch servo into the

socket labeled pitch.

Find the short power and data adapters.
Pass them through the small circular

opening in the lower bell and plug them
into the helper board. Flip the main LED

assembly back 90 degrees so it aligns
with the lower bell and points outwards

expected. Drop the assembly into the
lower bell making sure the tab on the

slots into the lower bell.

Now grab the upper bell piece. Nest it
over the lower bell and wiggle it down

into place until the attachment tabs
click.

The PCB should seat nicely into a groove
in the upper bell. Find the diffuser

lens. Pop it into place over the lower
two tabs and then snap it past the upper

tab. Keeping the head parallel with the
ground, drop the pitch servo down into

the fork. Pro tip, put the head in
exactly parallel with the base.

not tipped up or down later if you
notice your lamp head doesn't lean

back the whole way you can separate the
forks and adjust the head manually to

reach its full range find the bell
counterweight spring hook it first down

around the attachment hole in the fork
and then second into the attachment hole

in the yaw servo mount plug in the
adapter wires from the helper board into

long data and power wires from the
breadboard make sure the colors on the

match up grab the two large lamp
counterweight springs Pop them onto the

end caps attached to the first and
second aluminum tubes.

These may be a tight fit, so press
firmly.

From home, find a 5 -volt USB wall
adapter, a 5 -volt battery from another

pack, or a laptop USB port and plug in
your lamp. If the lamp is shutting off

acting unpredictable while in use, make
sure your power source can supply at

least 0 .8 amps.

Congratulations! You've built your lamp!

Now that you're familiar with the ins
and outs of the RoboLamp, let's get to

hacking. First hack is all about
productivity.

For those of us, like yours truly, who
need a little bit of discipline in our

lives sometimes, it's a software hack
that turns your RoboLamp into a Pomodoro

timer when you double -click the
joystick.

It's going to start you off with a
countdown in red for time you should be

working. That gives you a little
blinking light. And then a countdown in

for when you should be taking a break.
And after a couple cycles of this, it'll

give you a longer break.

You can use the standard pattern of 20
minutes of work, 5 minutes of break, 10

minute break every 4 cycles, or you can
use the level 2 configuration file to

change those parameters to ones that
work for you. For example, for me, it

to have 6 seconds of work time followed
by 6 seconds of break time followed by a

long break of 12 seconds. This is great
if you want a quiet visual reminder of

when you should be working and when you
should be taking breaks. The second hack

makes use of an awesome library called
FastLED, I call it FastLED, to bring in

some awesome new color palettes, and we
call this the disco hack, where choosing

your color doesn't result in a single
solid color but an elegant and flowing

pattern. Rather than using the joystick
to update brightness, it updates...

speed of the animation.

You can really level up your color game
with this hack. Third hack is a hardware

hack called the sunrise light hack. Just
grab a light sensor from your tank

robot, plug it into the power and
ground, and plug the tank plant sensor

into the A5 socket and upload the new
code. The lamp will behave normally,

except if you choose the soft white
preset. In that case, the robo lamp will

take its cues from this light sensor.
Put it in a sunny window or strap it to

the back of your lamp. When the sun
comes up, the light will mimic that

by rising up itself and getting
brighter. When the sun goes down or it

dark, the lamp will slowly descend and
then go to sleep. Level this hack up

further by getting your own real -time
clock. module and turning your Sunrise

alarm clock into an actual timekeeping
alarm clock finally we have our

ir remote hack control your lamp from
across the room with your turret ir

great for puppeteering as you can hide
the remote and have the robo lamp

interact with other people who come
across it also great if you want to

the mood lighting in your room from a
distance i really hope you enjoyed the

robo lamp i had a blast building it i
actually keep one on my desk and i named

it mark because he really respects his
product engineers we know he thinks the

world of us how creative we are some
might say even more creative than he is

specifically our intelligence all right
that's enough get out of here these

robots aren't gonna that themselves all
right well you've definitely earned your

led gear badge this is a really big deal
because you'll notice in your box you

also have a level three sundial and that
means you've now graduated not just

from level one from level two on half
pack so this is the updated sun gear

should make you really excited because
level three is where things get really

wild

Alright,

so go add that diploma to your gear
badge and get to work creating the most

exciting piece of office equipment
you've ever imagined, and then use it to

build other hackpacks, use it to just be
a little friendly companion, and most

importantly, show off and impress your
friends.

See you next time, right here at
Crackpot.