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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:11,890 --> 00:00:13,860 You think animals are sentient? 2 00:00:13,890 --> 00:00:15,690 I think pain is, you know... 3 00:00:15,720 --> 00:00:17,100 - Pain... - Pain is pain. 4 00:00:17,140 --> 00:00:18,410 If you don't respond to that, 5 00:00:18,450 --> 00:00:19,753 you're doing something seriously wrong. 6 00:00:19,760 --> 00:00:21,240 That's very Buddhist of you, I think. 7 00:00:21,280 --> 00:00:23,110 Look, when I worked in Cape Cod, 8 00:00:23,140 --> 00:00:25,730 my job was to load this steamer with lobsters. 9 00:00:25,770 --> 00:00:27,600 And they don't scream, but, you know, 10 00:00:27,630 --> 00:00:30,120 you hear them scratching against the thing. 11 00:00:30,150 --> 00:00:31,453 I'd have dreams, and, I mean, I'm in a sauna 12 00:00:31,460 --> 00:00:32,880 and I look through the window 13 00:00:32,910 --> 00:00:34,013 and there's this giant lobster, 14 00:00:34,020 --> 00:00:37,290 like a... you know, a bib with a chef on it, you know. 15 00:00:41,920 --> 00:00:44,230 ♪ I took a walk through this ♪ 16 00:00:44,270 --> 00:00:47,130 ♪ Beautiful world 17 00:00:47,170 --> 00:00:52,240 ♪ Felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ 18 00:00:52,280 --> 00:00:55,730 ♪ Found something good in this ♪ 19 00:00:55,760 --> 00:00:58,730 ♪ Beautiful world 20 00:00:58,760 --> 00:01:04,320 ♪ I felt the rain getting colder ♪ 21 00:01:04,360 --> 00:01:07,740 - ♪ La, la - ♪ Sha la, la, la, la 22 00:01:07,770 --> 00:01:09,570 ♪ Sha la, la, la, la 23 00:01:09,600 --> 00:01:13,740 - ♪ Sha la, la, la - Sha la, la, la, la ♪ 24 00:01:13,780 --> 00:01:18,850 ♪ Sha la, la, la, la, la 25 00:01:37,630 --> 00:01:39,150 Bhutan, 26 00:01:39,180 --> 00:01:41,360 a remote, relatively rarely visited 27 00:01:41,390 --> 00:01:44,840 kingdom of myth and legend high in the Himalayas, 28 00:01:44,880 --> 00:01:47,880 known as Land of the Thunder Dragon. 29 00:01:54,410 --> 00:01:56,860 One of the reasons it's not on the tourist trail 30 00:01:56,890 --> 00:01:59,380 is it's hard to get to. 31 00:02:10,530 --> 00:02:12,290 Flying in, you hang on to your seat 32 00:02:12,320 --> 00:02:15,320 as the plane negotiates some alarming maneuvers 33 00:02:15,360 --> 00:02:17,530 through narrow mountain passes... 34 00:02:19,260 --> 00:02:20,850 Before dropping into the country's 35 00:02:20,880 --> 00:02:22,710 only international airport, 36 00:02:22,740 --> 00:02:25,640 said by some to be the most dangerous in the world. 37 00:02:49,050 --> 00:02:51,360 Located between India and Tibet, 38 00:02:51,390 --> 00:02:53,330 Bhutan, about the size of Switzerland, 39 00:02:53,360 --> 00:02:56,330 is caught between the old world and the new. 40 00:03:01,580 --> 00:03:04,680 Thimphu is Bhutan's capital and largest city. 41 00:03:04,720 --> 00:03:08,450 It has a rapidly growing population of 100,000, 42 00:03:08,480 --> 00:03:11,860 as Bhutanese have begun the inevitable move away 43 00:03:11,900 --> 00:03:14,040 from a rural, agrarian lifestyle. 44 00:03:19,280 --> 00:03:22,460 Tourism was only allowed starting in the 1970s. 45 00:03:22,490 --> 00:03:25,570 The amount of foreign visitors each year is strictly limited 46 00:03:25,600 --> 00:03:29,740 to protect Bhutan's culture and environment. 47 00:03:29,780 --> 00:03:34,470 There are no Starbucks, no KFCs, no King or Clown. 48 00:03:34,510 --> 00:03:37,790 Basically, they don't want you to come here... 49 00:03:37,820 --> 00:03:40,820 at least en masse. 50 00:03:43,480 --> 00:03:46,070 - Watch your head. - Yeah, right? Wow. 51 00:03:47,690 --> 00:03:49,413 What do you think of the altitude? How you feeling? 52 00:03:49,420 --> 00:03:51,070 I'm here because of this guy, 53 00:03:51,110 --> 00:03:54,280 my friend, a film director, Darren Aronofsky, 54 00:03:54,320 --> 00:03:57,490 fresh off the unjustifiably horrified reaction 55 00:03:57,530 --> 00:04:00,640 to what I think is his masterpiece, "Mother!" 56 00:04:00,670 --> 00:04:03,500 I don't know if you've studied the effects of high altitude. 57 00:04:03,540 --> 00:04:05,740 You know, your blood gets thicker and thicker 58 00:04:05,780 --> 00:04:07,780 until it's like freakin' marmalade. 59 00:04:07,820 --> 00:04:09,750 - All right. - We'll be dying slowly. 60 00:04:09,780 --> 00:04:12,100 Awesome. 61 00:04:12,130 --> 00:04:14,620 "Mother!" is an angry and thinly veiled warning 62 00:04:14,650 --> 00:04:17,100 that we are destroying our planet. 63 00:04:17,130 --> 00:04:19,970 And, policy wise, Bhutan is something 64 00:04:20,000 --> 00:04:22,310 of an environmental wonderland. 65 00:04:22,350 --> 00:04:25,830 You want to protect the country from being overly influenced 66 00:04:25,870 --> 00:04:28,420 by foreign values, culture, you know, 67 00:04:28,460 --> 00:04:30,460 all of the bad stuff that happens with tourism. 68 00:04:30,490 --> 00:04:32,770 Has anyone made a film here? I don't know. 69 00:04:32,810 --> 00:04:34,460 It's got to be hard to work here. 70 00:04:34,500 --> 00:04:36,460 Yeah, plus talk about contaminating 71 00:04:36,500 --> 00:04:38,153 the values of a local culture, I mean, I don't... that'll... 72 00:04:38,160 --> 00:04:39,737 What, we are... Hollywood doesn't do that. 73 00:04:41,440 --> 00:04:43,680 Our first meal becomes our go-to favorite 74 00:04:43,710 --> 00:04:46,340 for the rest of the trip. 75 00:04:46,370 --> 00:04:49,060 If I'm not on camera, chances are I'm somewhere 76 00:04:49,100 --> 00:04:50,890 eating these bad boys. 77 00:04:50,930 --> 00:04:53,410 - Momo! - Momos. 78 00:04:53,450 --> 00:04:56,830 Plump, flavorful, often quite spicy dumplings 79 00:04:56,860 --> 00:04:59,630 filled with meat, cheese, or veg. 80 00:05:01,080 --> 00:05:03,390 Did I mention Darren is a vegetarian? 81 00:05:03,420 --> 00:05:05,840 - God damn, these are good. - They are really good. 82 00:05:05,870 --> 00:05:08,080 - Try chili cheese momo? - Pardon? 83 00:05:08,120 --> 00:05:09,880 - Chili cheese momo. - Cheese momo? 84 00:05:09,910 --> 00:05:12,540 - Chili cheese. - Hot, very hot. 85 00:05:12,570 --> 00:05:14,360 - Wow, everybody's smiling. - The thing to do. 86 00:05:14,400 --> 00:05:16,570 - Okay. - All right, here we go. 87 00:05:20,130 --> 00:05:22,820 - Mmm. - That's excellent. 88 00:05:22,860 --> 00:05:24,820 Yeah. 89 00:05:24,860 --> 00:05:26,380 That's spicy. 90 00:05:26,410 --> 00:05:27,613 That is... yeah, I'm feeling that. 91 00:05:27,620 --> 00:05:29,900 Mmm. I feel it in the back of my head. 92 00:05:29,930 --> 00:05:31,420 It's enlightenment. 93 00:05:31,450 --> 00:05:33,000 It's your third eye opening, man. 94 00:05:33,040 --> 00:05:34,513 I can't even tell what we're talking about, 95 00:05:34,520 --> 00:05:36,590 I'm, like, so high from the altitude. 96 00:05:57,170 --> 00:05:58,720 Morning in Bhutan's capital. 97 00:05:58,750 --> 00:06:01,620 A kingdom that has existed contentedly 98 00:06:01,650 --> 00:06:05,860 in a state of self-imposed isolation for centuries. 99 00:06:11,730 --> 00:06:13,560 In some forms of Buddhism you're very much... 100 00:06:13,600 --> 00:06:15,700 This life does not matter at all, it's about the next. 101 00:06:15,740 --> 00:06:17,050 Next. 102 00:06:17,080 --> 00:06:18,113 But on the other extreme, 103 00:06:18,120 --> 00:06:20,570 it's all about today, right now. 104 00:06:22,500 --> 00:06:25,570 The form of Buddhism practiced here is the Middle Path. 105 00:06:25,610 --> 00:06:28,580 Middle Path. Mahayana Buddhism. 106 00:06:31,610 --> 00:06:33,550 Buddhists consider the next life. 107 00:06:33,580 --> 00:06:35,890 Yes, and always is your karma. 108 00:06:35,930 --> 00:06:37,450 And karma. 109 00:06:37,480 --> 00:06:39,730 Whatever tragedies fall on you, 110 00:06:39,760 --> 00:06:41,660 that's the family of karma. 111 00:06:41,690 --> 00:06:45,590 It's all about an attitude, pick up and move on. 112 00:06:54,150 --> 00:06:56,190 Once, his holiness the Dalai Lama 113 00:06:56,220 --> 00:06:59,260 told me, "Every day when you rise up", 114 00:06:59,300 --> 00:07:02,610 "you try and be a good a human being as possible. 115 00:07:02,650 --> 00:07:05,610 That more important than being religious." 116 00:07:33,570 --> 00:07:35,510 - Beautiful day today. - Winter days... 117 00:07:35,540 --> 00:07:37,130 - Yeah. - Are normally like this 118 00:07:37,160 --> 00:07:38,540 every day. 119 00:07:38,580 --> 00:07:39,913 In the good old days, we used to have 120 00:07:39,920 --> 00:07:41,960 snowfalls about four, five times a year. 121 00:07:41,990 --> 00:07:43,790 - Mm-hmm. - But over the last decade 122 00:07:43,820 --> 00:07:47,210 or so, it's decreased a lot. Noticeably, really? 123 00:07:47,240 --> 00:07:50,040 Some glacier lakes have disappeared completely. 124 00:07:50,070 --> 00:07:52,520 Dasho Benji Dorji is known as 125 00:07:52,560 --> 00:07:55,560 Bhutan's godfather of environmental conservation. 126 00:07:55,590 --> 00:07:58,530 And in Tantric Buddhism, is there a respect for nature? 127 00:07:58,560 --> 00:08:01,080 - There is a lot of respect. - You don't mess with nature. 128 00:08:01,120 --> 00:08:03,640 Yeah, you don't mess with nature. 129 00:08:03,670 --> 00:08:06,570 This is a traditional welcome drink, is an ara. 130 00:08:06,610 --> 00:08:07,990 It's raw alcohol. 131 00:08:08,020 --> 00:08:10,330 The normal toast is "tashi delek." 132 00:08:10,370 --> 00:08:11,820 - Tashi delek. - Tashi delek. 133 00:08:11,850 --> 00:08:14,060 May good fortune be with you. 134 00:08:14,100 --> 00:08:17,030 I'm a retired alcoholic, so I will not join you. 135 00:08:17,060 --> 00:08:18,340 Okay. Mmm. 136 00:08:18,380 --> 00:08:19,760 - Pretty good. - Yeah. 137 00:08:19,790 --> 00:08:21,590 Kind of a warm sake but made out of wheat. 138 00:08:21,620 --> 00:08:23,000 - Yeah. - Yes. 139 00:08:24,900 --> 00:08:26,900 If you could tell us a little more about the chef. 140 00:08:26,940 --> 00:08:29,700 Oh, she and her husband are both colonels 141 00:08:29,730 --> 00:08:32,110 in the Royal Bhutan Police. Oh, wow. 142 00:08:32,150 --> 00:08:33,740 We have to use the finger. 143 00:08:33,770 --> 00:08:36,570 Touch, so that the flavors come out. 144 00:08:36,600 --> 00:08:38,570 These recipes, where do they come from? 145 00:08:38,600 --> 00:08:41,360 They come from the farms, from all the local houses. 146 00:08:41,400 --> 00:08:42,780 Just passed down. 147 00:08:42,810 --> 00:08:44,710 These nine grains have a very historical 148 00:08:44,750 --> 00:08:46,370 and spiritual significance. 149 00:08:46,400 --> 00:08:49,130 There was one saint called Drukpa Kunley, 150 00:08:49,170 --> 00:08:51,100 he's known as the Madman. The Divine Madman. 151 00:08:51,130 --> 00:08:52,270 Yes, of course. 152 00:08:52,310 --> 00:08:56,380 So when he came to Bhutan, he carried the nine grains. 153 00:08:56,410 --> 00:08:59,870 This is the hide, the yak hide. Mm. Yes. 154 00:09:02,250 --> 00:09:04,730 Hot Sichuan pepper. 155 00:09:04,770 --> 00:09:09,220 Lots of tomatoes to tone down the pepper. 156 00:09:09,250 --> 00:09:11,050 This is the yak hide. 157 00:09:11,080 --> 00:09:12,780 It's a delicacy. 158 00:09:12,810 --> 00:09:15,920 ♪ 159 00:09:15,950 --> 00:09:19,780 And then this is... the green one is the orchid flower. 160 00:09:19,820 --> 00:09:21,130 - Oh... - I always think 161 00:09:21,160 --> 00:09:23,060 it's very exotic, the orchid. Mm. 162 00:09:23,100 --> 00:09:24,650 They say it's good for your health. 163 00:09:24,680 --> 00:09:27,310 - Mmm, good. - I know, it's really amazing. 164 00:09:27,340 --> 00:09:28,930 Can you tell us about 165 00:09:28,960 --> 00:09:30,690 the famous Gross National Happiness? 166 00:09:30,720 --> 00:09:34,420 Ah, well, you have in your Constitution 167 00:09:34,450 --> 00:09:36,313 the pursuit of happiness, the right of every individual. 168 00:09:36,320 --> 00:09:38,350 It's true. Yeah, but, we don't... 169 00:09:38,390 --> 00:09:41,800 We don't actually believe that, but please proceed. 170 00:09:41,840 --> 00:09:44,430 I do believe in Gross National Happiness. 171 00:09:44,460 --> 00:09:46,640 Good governance, human rights, 172 00:09:46,670 --> 00:09:49,610 justice for all, education, health. 173 00:09:50,470 --> 00:09:52,300 It is not a wealthy country. 174 00:09:52,330 --> 00:09:54,160 The average daily wage is very low. 175 00:09:54,200 --> 00:09:55,780 - Yeah. - But would you say 176 00:09:55,820 --> 00:09:57,370 the average person living in Bhutan 177 00:09:57,410 --> 00:10:00,170 is reasonably happy and content? 178 00:10:00,200 --> 00:10:02,270 Most people, yes. 179 00:10:02,310 --> 00:10:03,443 Bhutan is a good welfare state where 180 00:10:03,450 --> 00:10:06,100 the health of people are taken care of, 181 00:10:06,140 --> 00:10:09,110 you know, and taken care of very well. 182 00:10:24,050 --> 00:10:24,550 ♪ 183 00:10:43,760 --> 00:10:44,260 ♪ 184 00:10:52,810 --> 00:10:55,050 It's a 2 1/2-hour drive from the capital 185 00:10:55,080 --> 00:10:57,810 to the picturesque mountain village of Punakha. 186 00:10:57,850 --> 00:10:58,350 ♪ 187 00:11:12,410 --> 00:11:14,720 This is a must-see destination 188 00:11:14,760 --> 00:11:18,040 and one-time home to Bhutan's revered and beloved 189 00:11:18,070 --> 00:11:21,770 Drukpa Kunley, known as the Divine Madman. 190 00:11:21,800 --> 00:11:23,420 - Beep, beep! - Beep, beep. 191 00:11:23,460 --> 00:11:25,770 Beep, beep. 192 00:11:25,800 --> 00:11:29,740 It's... Okay. Here you go. 193 00:11:29,770 --> 00:11:32,090 Wow. 194 00:11:32,120 --> 00:11:34,880 - Uh... - So, I mean, we... 195 00:11:34,920 --> 00:11:37,440 I really kind of got nothing to say. 196 00:11:39,300 --> 00:11:40,920 Now, dear viewer, 197 00:11:40,960 --> 00:11:43,930 Bhutan is a very devoutly Buddhist country, 198 00:11:43,960 --> 00:11:47,830 and in such circumstances, I always do my very best 199 00:11:47,860 --> 00:11:49,410 to be respectful and restrained, 200 00:11:49,450 --> 00:11:52,280 shying away from my usual toilet humor. 201 00:11:52,310 --> 00:11:54,450 Never in the history of television 202 00:11:54,490 --> 00:11:57,250 has a host faced a greater challenge. 203 00:11:58,980 --> 00:12:02,770 How to talk about what's happening without, uh... 204 00:12:02,810 --> 00:12:05,780 well, without making the obvious joke. 205 00:12:05,810 --> 00:12:08,780 God, give me strength, as we wander through 206 00:12:08,810 --> 00:12:10,780 the valley of the low-hanging dick jokes. 207 00:12:10,820 --> 00:12:12,440 I'm trying to be respectful 208 00:12:12,470 --> 00:12:14,890 of a five-century religious tradition here. 209 00:12:14,920 --> 00:12:18,060 For centuries, Bhutan has celebrated 210 00:12:18,100 --> 00:12:20,510 the, um... phallus. 211 00:12:20,550 --> 00:12:22,240 Uh, I'm not sure about the teeth. 212 00:12:23,340 --> 00:12:26,110 This is the necklace ones. Ooh. 213 00:12:26,140 --> 00:12:27,525 I'm trying to think of a circumstance 214 00:12:27,560 --> 00:12:28,933 that you could wear that around your neck. 215 00:12:28,940 --> 00:12:31,320 You see them everywhere here. 216 00:12:31,350 --> 00:12:33,910 Ah, jeez, it's a cock-alanche. 217 00:12:33,940 --> 00:12:35,980 You could make a chess set out of them, though. 218 00:12:36,010 --> 00:12:38,500 Really, my dick takes your schnatz. 219 00:12:38,530 --> 00:12:39,980 Exactly. 220 00:12:40,020 --> 00:12:41,353 Yeah, that's a little... Yeah, that's... 221 00:12:41,360 --> 00:12:42,850 That's making a statement of some... 222 00:12:42,880 --> 00:12:45,850 Yeah, it is. It is. 223 00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:47,440 All right, I got to go for the sad one. 224 00:12:47,470 --> 00:12:49,990 And you're going for sort of... It's a rainbow. 225 00:12:50,030 --> 00:12:51,170 Rainbow dick. Five, six... 226 00:12:51,200 --> 00:12:53,860 I want to see this appearing on the budget, by the way. 227 00:12:53,890 --> 00:12:55,310 Exactly. How do you write this off? 228 00:12:55,340 --> 00:12:57,520 Do I add a little tip? N- 229 00:12:59,860 --> 00:13:01,380 - Do we have a bag? 230 00:13:01,420 --> 00:13:03,413 Can I pass this along? I'm not walking around with it. 231 00:13:03,420 --> 00:13:05,280 I mean, I'm holding two... 232 00:13:05,320 --> 00:13:07,010 It's... I feel like I'm... So what do they- 233 00:13:07,040 --> 00:13:08,940 Tell me what they represent. 234 00:13:08,980 --> 00:13:12,390 Uh, embarrassment? All right. 235 00:13:13,430 --> 00:13:16,500 All this is the legacy of Drukpa Kunley, 236 00:13:16,540 --> 00:13:19,990 a lama and holy man who lived 500 years ago 237 00:13:20,020 --> 00:13:22,020 and spread the tenets of Buddhism 238 00:13:22,060 --> 00:13:23,850 along with a healthy skepticism 239 00:13:23,890 --> 00:13:26,130 for the institutions of power. 240 00:13:26,170 --> 00:13:29,070 We are sitting just below the Chimi Lhakhang 241 00:13:29,100 --> 00:13:31,590 which is a temple built in the honor of Drukpa Kunley. 242 00:13:31,620 --> 00:13:34,000 The temple's also known as the Temple of Fertility. 243 00:13:34,040 --> 00:13:36,970 He reveled unapologetically in casual sex, 244 00:13:37,000 --> 00:13:39,870 the copious use of spirits, and seduction, 245 00:13:39,900 --> 00:13:42,530 smiting demons and making frequent friends 246 00:13:42,560 --> 00:13:44,050 with what is referred to 247 00:13:44,080 --> 00:13:47,530 as his Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom, 248 00:13:47,570 --> 00:13:50,980 which is a term you and I are unlikely to get away with. 249 00:13:51,020 --> 00:13:52,920 People from all over the world come here 250 00:13:52,950 --> 00:13:54,880 to buy wooden penises... Yeah. 251 00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:56,633 And to hear the stories of the Divine Madman. 252 00:13:56,640 --> 00:13:58,433 And to get the, yeah, blessings from the palace. 253 00:13:58,440 --> 00:14:00,890 The Phallus Palace. Phallus Palace. 254 00:14:00,930 --> 00:14:03,410 They bless you with a phallus? With a phallus, yeah. 255 00:14:05,410 --> 00:14:08,420 Kunga Tenzin Dorji is a journalist and radio host 256 00:14:08,450 --> 00:14:11,070 who knows a few things about the Divine Madman. 257 00:14:11,110 --> 00:14:13,700 The phallus has been a symbol in Vajrayana Buddhism 258 00:14:13,730 --> 00:14:15,560 long before Drukpa Kunley came around. 259 00:14:15,590 --> 00:14:17,600 It's just that because he was such a character, 260 00:14:17,630 --> 00:14:19,980 it's come to be associated with him. 261 00:14:20,010 --> 00:14:21,910 The Divine Madman was a rebel. 262 00:14:21,950 --> 00:14:24,430 Questioned his own religion. Mmhmm. 263 00:14:24,470 --> 00:14:26,090 His own... his fellow monks. 264 00:14:26,120 --> 00:14:27,540 So the monks hated him, of course, 265 00:14:27,570 --> 00:14:29,400 but then the establishment hated him. 266 00:14:29,440 --> 00:14:31,090 But the people took readily to him 267 00:14:31,130 --> 00:14:33,100 because he was a guy who came to your house. 268 00:14:33,130 --> 00:14:35,100 It didn't mean that, you know, like other monks, 269 00:14:35,130 --> 00:14:37,100 you had to prepare a special meal for him. 270 00:14:37,130 --> 00:14:39,620 He probably wanted, you know, your latest batch of ara, 271 00:14:39,650 --> 00:14:41,280 you know, the local rice wine. 272 00:14:41,310 --> 00:14:43,450 And maybe he'd hit on your daughter 273 00:14:43,480 --> 00:14:45,450 and your wife as well, in the process. 274 00:14:47,140 --> 00:14:48,653 So you could imagine in 16th-century Bhutan, 275 00:14:48,660 --> 00:14:51,110 a person who was known to have performed miracles 276 00:14:51,150 --> 00:14:52,980 would strike the fancy of anyone. 277 00:14:53,010 --> 00:14:55,150 - Mm-hmm. - What were his miracles? 278 00:14:55,190 --> 00:14:56,950 Well, things like shooting an arrow 279 00:14:56,980 --> 00:14:59,090 all the way from Tibet and landed in a house 280 00:14:59,120 --> 00:15:01,500 that's about a few kilometers from here. 281 00:15:01,540 --> 00:15:04,060 - But he did exist, right? - Yeah. 282 00:15:04,090 --> 00:15:06,090 Then the first thing he did when he got to the house 283 00:15:06,130 --> 00:15:07,680 where the arrow had landed was to hit up 284 00:15:07,720 --> 00:15:09,480 on the lady of the house. Mmhmm. 285 00:15:09,510 --> 00:15:11,410 Yeah, that wouldn't fly these days. 286 00:15:12,380 --> 00:15:14,240 This is one of the most difficult things 287 00:15:14,270 --> 00:15:16,100 to understand about Drukpa Kunley, 288 00:15:16,140 --> 00:15:18,490 because he breaks our own... our... 289 00:15:18,520 --> 00:15:21,250 Our notions about what is right and what's proper. 290 00:15:21,280 --> 00:15:23,150 This man was essentially saying, 291 00:15:23,180 --> 00:15:24,460 "We should make love." True. 292 00:15:24,490 --> 00:15:27,080 "We should drink. We should feel pleasure." 293 00:15:27,110 --> 00:15:29,010 Oh, well, not necessarily that. 294 00:15:29,050 --> 00:15:30,523 I think what he was trying to say is that, 295 00:15:30,530 --> 00:15:33,050 you know, all these things that you hold dear 296 00:15:33,090 --> 00:15:34,633 to your heart such as, you know, your wife 297 00:15:34,640 --> 00:15:37,440 and your kids and your house and all of this, 298 00:15:37,470 --> 00:15:39,300 in the end, it doesn't really matter. 299 00:15:39,330 --> 00:15:41,340 So you're saying the Divine Madman was bringing 300 00:15:41,370 --> 00:15:44,030 people towards enlightenment. Yes. 301 00:15:44,060 --> 00:15:45,720 So should I be getting drunk more 302 00:15:45,750 --> 00:15:47,480 and having more casual sex? 303 00:15:47,510 --> 00:15:50,070 Will I be more enlightened? No, not just because of that. 304 00:15:50,100 --> 00:15:52,520 I'm sure not. 305 00:16:00,080 --> 00:16:04,050 ♪ 306 00:16:04,080 --> 00:16:05,670 Until about 15 years ago, 307 00:16:05,700 --> 00:16:08,710 the East-West Highway was the only road in Bhutan. 308 00:16:08,740 --> 00:16:11,230 Bisecting the country, it twists through 309 00:16:11,260 --> 00:16:13,820 some pretty gnarly mountain passes, 310 00:16:13,850 --> 00:16:17,300 with at times crumbly cliff face on one side... 311 00:16:17,340 --> 00:16:19,300 Wow. 312 00:16:19,340 --> 00:16:22,650 And harrowing freakin' drop-offs on the other. 313 00:16:22,690 --> 00:16:23,190 ♪ 314 00:16:29,450 --> 00:16:31,830 The road is undergoing a major expansion, 315 00:16:31,870 --> 00:16:36,150 with plans to have it fully paved by, well, soon. 316 00:16:36,180 --> 00:16:37,693 It's carved into the side of the mountain. 317 00:16:37,700 --> 00:16:40,190 Unbelievable. How many workers they say working this? 318 00:16:40,220 --> 00:16:41,430 40,000. 319 00:16:41,460 --> 00:16:44,330 Respect for the natural world is fundamental 320 00:16:44,360 --> 00:16:46,370 to Bhutan's spiritual identity. 321 00:16:46,400 --> 00:16:48,200 More than half the country 322 00:16:48,230 --> 00:16:50,060 is off-limits to development or timbering. 323 00:16:50,090 --> 00:16:55,620 A whopping 50% of Bhutan's GDP comes from hydropower. 324 00:16:55,650 --> 00:16:57,760 - Amazing, huh? - So where are we? 325 00:16:57,790 --> 00:16:59,280 What is this place? 326 00:16:59,310 --> 00:17:01,800 This is the Punatsangchhu hydropower dam. 327 00:17:01,830 --> 00:17:04,110 So this is one of the biggest hydropower dams in Bhutan. 328 00:17:04,140 --> 00:17:05,870 It's about 1,200 megawatts. 329 00:17:05,900 --> 00:17:08,350 - How much is that? - It's a lot of refrigerators. 330 00:17:08,390 --> 00:17:10,250 No, I heard there's gonna be 331 00:17:10,290 --> 00:17:11,770 a second... Second dam further down. 332 00:17:11,810 --> 00:17:13,430 So they're gonna capture power twice. 333 00:17:13,460 --> 00:17:15,640 If you have already destroyed one river, 334 00:17:15,670 --> 00:17:17,570 you know, might as well... Keep building- 335 00:17:17,600 --> 00:17:19,563 - Get the most out of it. - Yeah, get the most out of it. 336 00:17:19,570 --> 00:17:21,780 Dr. Nawang Norbu is the director of 337 00:17:21,820 --> 00:17:25,130 the School for Field Studies Bhutan program. 338 00:17:25,160 --> 00:17:26,263 And what country's building this? 339 00:17:26,270 --> 00:17:27,890 - It's mostly India. - Do the Indians 340 00:17:27,920 --> 00:17:30,100 build it and then get the power to pay it? 341 00:17:30,130 --> 00:17:32,100 They get the power. We sell it to them. 342 00:17:32,140 --> 00:17:34,310 And then we sort of liquidate the loans away. 343 00:17:34,350 --> 00:17:36,830 We have five such dams which are operational. 344 00:17:36,860 --> 00:17:38,450 - Five. - And I-I think 345 00:17:38,490 --> 00:17:40,390 six being constructed at the moment. 346 00:17:40,420 --> 00:17:42,280 You know, obviously there's a lot of destruction. 347 00:17:42,320 --> 00:17:43,840 It will stop some of the fishes 348 00:17:43,870 --> 00:17:45,630 from migrating up and down. 349 00:17:45,670 --> 00:17:47,353 You're also talking about a lot of transmission lines. 350 00:17:47,360 --> 00:17:49,120 But, obviously, for Bhutan, 351 00:17:49,150 --> 00:17:50,640 I think when we started on 352 00:17:50,670 --> 00:17:52,183 the path of development, I think we were left 353 00:17:52,190 --> 00:17:53,610 with few other options. 354 00:17:53,640 --> 00:17:55,810 And I think this was the best thing for us to do. 355 00:17:55,850 --> 00:17:57,580 The water that comes through this dam, 356 00:17:57,610 --> 00:17:59,300 is it an inexhaustible supply? 357 00:17:59,340 --> 00:18:01,820 - It's all glacial water. - We hope so. 358 00:18:01,860 --> 00:18:03,620 There are many studies which are showing 359 00:18:03,650 --> 00:18:05,650 that the Himalayan glaciers will disappear 360 00:18:05,690 --> 00:18:08,140 in about 50 to 60 years. Whoa. Whoa. Whoa. 361 00:18:08,170 --> 00:18:09,450 That's soon. Yeah. 362 00:18:09,480 --> 00:18:10,760 Yeah, but nobody knows for sure. 363 00:18:10,800 --> 00:18:12,140 I mean, the science is debatable. 364 00:18:12,180 --> 00:18:13,313 Are we talking about the difference 365 00:18:13,320 --> 00:18:14,800 between 50 years and 100 years, 366 00:18:14,830 --> 00:18:16,693 or are we talking about whether it's happening at all? 367 00:18:16,700 --> 00:18:18,523 No, it is happening. There's no doubt about it. 368 00:18:18,530 --> 00:18:20,453 - Yes, there's no doubt. - And you're not only talking 369 00:18:20,460 --> 00:18:21,873 about energy production but you're also talking 370 00:18:21,880 --> 00:18:23,330 about agriculture. 371 00:18:23,360 --> 00:18:24,500 You know, you have less snow, 372 00:18:24,530 --> 00:18:26,360 it means you have less water to feed. 373 00:18:26,400 --> 00:18:29,330 So climate change is going to have a serious impact. 374 00:18:32,580 --> 00:18:34,540 ♪ 375 00:18:38,270 --> 00:18:38,770 ♪ 376 00:18:46,350 --> 00:18:46,850 ♪ 377 00:18:59,220 --> 00:18:59,720 ♪ 378 00:19:12,370 --> 00:19:12,870 ♪ 379 00:19:23,390 --> 00:19:25,530 As we head further and further east, 380 00:19:25,560 --> 00:19:27,840 road conditions get sketchy. 381 00:19:31,530 --> 00:19:33,290 Whoa. 382 00:19:36,470 --> 00:19:36,970 ♪ 383 00:19:49,410 --> 00:19:49,910 ♪ 384 00:19:57,760 --> 00:19:59,870 ♪ 385 00:19:59,900 --> 00:20:02,290 Whoa. Wow. 386 00:20:02,320 --> 00:20:03,460 ♪ 387 00:20:03,490 --> 00:20:05,290 Looks like a landslide. 388 00:20:05,320 --> 00:20:07,950 That whole thing collapsed. 389 00:20:07,980 --> 00:20:09,810 That's not encouraging. 390 00:20:09,850 --> 00:20:12,920 What if our car had been... 391 00:20:12,950 --> 00:20:15,400 That's a big freaking... 392 00:20:15,440 --> 00:20:17,890 Oh, shoot, he's gonna have to move that whole thing? 393 00:20:17,920 --> 00:20:20,790 I think we're gonna freeze out here like rats tonight. 394 00:20:26,380 --> 00:20:29,420 ♪ 395 00:20:29,450 --> 00:20:30,490 Jeez. Whoa! 396 00:20:34,460 --> 00:20:37,080 ♪ 397 00:20:37,110 --> 00:20:38,933 He's... look at that. He's going after the big one. 398 00:20:38,940 --> 00:20:41,950 Here he goes. Whoa. 399 00:20:41,980 --> 00:20:44,360 Whoa, 400 00:20:44,400 --> 00:20:47,400 ♪ 401 00:20:47,430 --> 00:20:48,850 Hey, he's through. 402 00:20:48,880 --> 00:20:51,090 - You think that's it? - Saddle up. 403 00:20:51,130 --> 00:20:51,630 ♪ 404 00:20:58,380 --> 00:21:01,450 - That song about the road... - Ah. Mm. 405 00:21:01,480 --> 00:21:03,310 It's almost having West Virginia, 406 00:21:03,350 --> 00:21:05,630 Blue Ridge Mountains... "Country Roads." 407 00:21:05,660 --> 00:21:07,660 John Denver? 408 00:21:07,700 --> 00:21:09,420 It's where my head went first. 409 00:21:09,460 --> 00:21:11,040 Wow. 410 00:21:29,820 --> 00:21:30,320 ♪ 411 00:21:41,560 --> 00:21:43,900 It is considered enlightening and therapeutic 412 00:21:43,940 --> 00:21:46,390 to think about death for a few minutes a day. 413 00:21:46,420 --> 00:21:48,390 Yes. 414 00:21:48,430 --> 00:21:50,360 You are reminded time and again 415 00:21:50,390 --> 00:21:53,360 not to take things too seriously. 416 00:21:53,400 --> 00:21:55,740 This is in fact an illusion, isn't it? 417 00:21:55,780 --> 00:21:58,060 - Life is but a dream. - Yeah. 418 00:22:02,850 --> 00:22:03,350 ♪ 419 00:22:18,560 --> 00:22:19,060 ♪ 420 00:22:31,230 --> 00:22:34,890 Pelela Pass, the gateway to Central Bhutan. 421 00:22:39,130 --> 00:22:41,480 Here, nomadic herders and their yaks 422 00:22:41,510 --> 00:22:43,030 come down from higher elevations 423 00:22:43,070 --> 00:22:45,030 to spend the winter months. 424 00:22:54,770 --> 00:22:56,870 And from the yak you get meat? 425 00:22:56,910 --> 00:22:58,600 - Meat. - The fur? 426 00:22:58,630 --> 00:22:59,950 The fur. Milk. Cheese. 427 00:22:59,980 --> 00:23:02,090 - Butter? - Yeah. 428 00:23:02,810 --> 00:23:04,090 This is butter tea. 429 00:23:04,120 --> 00:23:06,440 - Yak tea? - Yeah, with yak butter. 430 00:23:06,470 --> 00:23:07,990 - Have you had this before? - Never. 431 00:23:08,020 --> 00:23:09,580 You're either gonna love it 432 00:23:09,610 --> 00:23:12,720 or you're not gonna love it 433 00:23:17,550 --> 00:23:18,790 That was very unique. 434 00:23:18,830 --> 00:23:20,450 Ooh. 435 00:23:22,930 --> 00:23:24,660 ♪ 436 00:23:24,700 --> 00:23:26,080 So yak jerky. 437 00:23:26,110 --> 00:23:28,660 Yak meat and some spinach. 438 00:23:28,700 --> 00:23:29,980 You'll like these greens, man. 439 00:23:30,010 --> 00:23:31,600 They are spicy as f... Do I have yak? 440 00:23:31,630 --> 00:23:33,003 Is this yak meat here? Yeah, that's yak meat. 441 00:23:33,010 --> 00:23:34,500 Okay, I got to avoid the yak meat. 442 00:23:34,530 --> 00:23:36,740 And then these are dried chilis 443 00:23:36,780 --> 00:23:38,990 which are boiled. 444 00:23:39,020 --> 00:23:42,580 Ah, the yak cheese with boiled dried chilis. 445 00:23:42,610 --> 00:23:44,850 Yeah, I'm all over that. 446 00:23:46,200 --> 00:23:47,820 This is excellent. Yeah. 447 00:23:47,860 --> 00:23:50,510 Excellent. Really good. 448 00:23:52,550 --> 00:23:55,590 So yak herding is dying, we're starting to hear. It's... 449 00:23:55,620 --> 00:23:57,590 - People are giving it up. - Why? 450 00:23:57,620 --> 00:23:59,210 Better opportunities I suppose. 451 00:23:59,250 --> 00:24:00,700 Yak herding is a difficult life. 452 00:24:00,730 --> 00:24:01,870 She herself has given up now. 453 00:24:03,670 --> 00:24:05,490 So she has given all her yaks to her sisters 454 00:24:05,530 --> 00:24:07,290 So she's now... she has a shop 455 00:24:07,320 --> 00:24:10,020 and she's gone up the ladder. 456 00:24:13,850 --> 00:24:16,510 ♪ 457 00:24:20,540 --> 00:24:22,200 Yeah, she is in charge of the business 458 00:24:22,240 --> 00:24:23,960 and she makes the decisions for the family. 459 00:24:24,000 --> 00:24:25,790 In Bhutan, women are the boss. 460 00:24:25,830 --> 00:24:27,970 Women inherit whatever the parents own. 461 00:24:28,000 --> 00:24:29,310 It's not the sons. 462 00:24:29,350 --> 00:24:30,993 Always? All inheritance goes to the woman? 463 00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:32,730 Yes, women. 464 00:24:32,760 --> 00:24:34,140 - What is this? - Wow. 465 00:24:34,180 --> 00:24:37,040 This is ara, with some Cordyceps in it. 466 00:24:37,080 --> 00:24:39,220 - What? That is a Cordycep? - Right there. 467 00:24:39,250 --> 00:24:41,220 - That is the Cordycep. - Which is? 468 00:24:41,250 --> 00:24:43,640 Essentially, the Cordycep is a fungus 469 00:24:43,670 --> 00:24:47,610 which infects the larvae of the ghost moths. 470 00:24:47,640 --> 00:24:50,330 A caterpillar that has been invaded by fungus. 471 00:24:50,370 --> 00:24:52,990 Essentially takes over the whole larvae, 472 00:24:53,020 --> 00:24:55,200 kills it, sort of mummifies the whole thing. 473 00:24:55,230 --> 00:24:57,270 Then in the spring, it protrudes out again. 474 00:24:57,300 --> 00:24:59,930 Is there any caterpillar left at the end or is it fo... 475 00:24:59,960 --> 00:25:01,613 Sort of like fossilized? It's just a fossil. 476 00:25:01,620 --> 00:25:03,690 Meaning it is not meat. 477 00:25:03,730 --> 00:25:04,660 It is vegetarian. 478 00:25:04,690 --> 00:25:06,350 Right. 479 00:25:06,380 --> 00:25:09,560 Cordyceps are the new profit center for a culture 480 00:25:09,590 --> 00:25:12,700 that used to revolve almost entirely around the yak. 481 00:25:12,730 --> 00:25:15,220 Wow, so this stuff costs how much a kilo? 482 00:25:15,250 --> 00:25:18,740 Um, on average, it's about, uh, 20,000. 483 00:25:18,770 --> 00:25:20,120 - 20,000 U.S.? - Dollars. 484 00:25:20,160 --> 00:25:21,850 - Oh, that's a lot. - May I? 485 00:25:21,880 --> 00:25:23,680 Yes, please. 486 00:25:25,330 --> 00:25:27,020 What does this do for you? 487 00:25:27,060 --> 00:25:28,850 Supposed to increase your virility. 488 00:25:28,890 --> 00:25:30,300 It's supposed to kill piles. 489 00:25:30,340 --> 00:25:32,060 You know, even hepatitis. Really? 490 00:25:32,100 --> 00:25:33,200 - Hepatitis? - Yeah. 491 00:25:33,240 --> 00:25:34,690 - Piles, eh? - What is piles? 492 00:25:34,720 --> 00:25:36,210 - Hemorrhoids. - Oh. 493 00:25:36,240 --> 00:25:37,753 And the Chinese athletes have been taking it 494 00:25:37,760 --> 00:25:40,380 for quite some time. So they're doping on, uh... 495 00:25:40,420 --> 00:25:42,413 - They're doping on fungus. - They're doping on fungus. 496 00:25:42,420 --> 00:25:43,970 Yeah. 497 00:25:44,010 --> 00:25:45,630 It's pretty tasty. 498 00:25:45,660 --> 00:25:49,670 Yeah, it also says that you produce more semen. 499 00:25:49,700 --> 00:25:52,150 I don't know how far is true, but... 500 00:25:52,190 --> 00:25:53,880 So what about the... What's his name? 501 00:25:53,910 --> 00:25:55,120 The Divine Madman. 502 00:25:55,160 --> 00:25:57,050 Maybe the guy was, you know, 503 00:25:57,090 --> 00:25:58,400 eating a lot of Cordyceps. 504 00:25:58,430 --> 00:26:00,610 Exactly. 505 00:26:04,680 --> 00:26:08,070 ♪ 506 00:26:10,690 --> 00:26:12,760 It's getting hot in here. 507 00:26:12,790 --> 00:26:15,730 Well, no it's not, actually. It's you. It's you, man. 508 00:26:17,450 --> 00:26:20,080 What happens if you eat too many? 509 00:26:22,110 --> 00:26:24,630 ♪ 510 00:26:27,120 --> 00:26:27,620 ♪ 511 00:26:50,040 --> 00:26:50,540 ♪ 512 00:26:58,910 --> 00:27:02,400 We are here on the East-West Highway. 513 00:27:05,090 --> 00:27:07,680 After this pass, we are actually entering 514 00:27:07,710 --> 00:27:08,850 the Black Mountain Forest. 515 00:27:08,880 --> 00:27:11,160 Some of the most pristine forest in Bhutan. 516 00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:13,160 But also supposed to be connected 517 00:27:13,200 --> 00:27:14,820 to a lot of evil spirits. 518 00:27:14,860 --> 00:27:17,690 With the last remnants of sun still with us 519 00:27:17,720 --> 00:27:20,170 and the views spectacular, 520 00:27:20,210 --> 00:27:22,760 enthusiastic amateur mixologist Darren 521 00:27:22,800 --> 00:27:24,070 suggests a pit stop... 522 00:27:24,110 --> 00:27:26,040 - This is a cool spot, no? - Yeah. 523 00:27:26,070 --> 00:27:30,040 To fortify ourselves against the reputed horrors ahead. 524 00:27:30,080 --> 00:27:33,840 So our main alcohol... Ara, is that what it's called? 525 00:27:33,880 --> 00:27:36,330 - Take a whiff. - Oh, jeez. 526 00:27:36,360 --> 00:27:38,400 Oh, Jesus. 527 00:27:38,430 --> 00:27:40,810 Oh, we have this, which is a bitter. 528 00:27:40,850 --> 00:27:43,370 Yeah, okay. It's like aftershave. 529 00:27:43,400 --> 00:27:45,330 Exactly. 530 00:27:45,370 --> 00:27:46,780 Should we put some orange in there? 531 00:27:46,820 --> 00:27:48,340 We do have oranges. 532 00:27:49,820 --> 00:27:51,060 Ever done that spin in the air? 533 00:27:51,100 --> 00:27:53,520 Catch in the other hand. 534 00:27:53,550 --> 00:27:55,760 Hello, ladies. 535 00:27:55,790 --> 00:27:57,730 Oh, oh, hold on. Hold on. What? 536 00:27:57,760 --> 00:28:00,760 Hold on. Hold on. Dude. 537 00:28:00,800 --> 00:28:03,770 It needs a yeti in it. The boot needs pepper. 538 00:28:03,800 --> 00:28:04,910 No, no, no. Go for it. 539 00:28:04,940 --> 00:28:06,420 No... really want the seeds in? 540 00:28:06,460 --> 00:28:07,553 Yeah, yeah, yeah, Do it. Do it. 541 00:28:07,560 --> 00:28:09,120 Let's do it. Let's try it. 542 00:28:14,400 --> 00:28:15,810 It has a bite. Did you get, like... 543 00:28:15,850 --> 00:28:17,020 Did you get a little sting? 544 00:28:17,060 --> 00:28:18,780 Oh, I'm getting it. I'm getting it. 545 00:28:18,820 --> 00:28:20,200 Actually, this is pretty good. 546 00:28:20,230 --> 00:28:22,269 Yeah, I could really... I could drink a lot of these. 547 00:28:25,860 --> 00:28:26,360 ♪ 548 00:28:39,840 --> 00:28:42,220 We decide, as travelers through demon-infested 549 00:28:42,250 --> 00:28:44,910 forests at night all too frequently do, 550 00:28:44,950 --> 00:28:47,400 to stop by a welcoming roadhouse, 551 00:28:47,430 --> 00:28:48,950 where a conversation with 552 00:28:48,980 --> 00:28:50,950 Gara Durji, our government rep, 553 00:28:50,990 --> 00:28:53,300 does little to steel us for the journey ahead. 554 00:28:53,330 --> 00:28:56,790 What are we drinking tonight? Uh, we are drinking K5. 555 00:28:56,820 --> 00:28:58,580 - Called K5 because... - K5. 556 00:28:58,610 --> 00:29:01,310 The whiskey is dedicated to the present king. 557 00:29:01,340 --> 00:29:03,070 He is fifth king in line. 558 00:29:03,100 --> 00:29:04,900 Do they still make K4? Or no more? 559 00:29:04,930 --> 00:29:07,420 Uh, no, you don't have K4, just K5. 560 00:29:07,450 --> 00:29:08,970 - Good, thank you. - Okay. 561 00:29:12,280 --> 00:29:14,320 ♪ 562 00:29:14,350 --> 00:29:16,940 Most of the guys brought in from India? 563 00:29:16,980 --> 00:29:18,500 Ah, yeah. Most are from India. 564 00:29:18,530 --> 00:29:19,670 Where do these guys live? 565 00:29:19,700 --> 00:29:23,810 They have small huts built at the construction site. 566 00:29:23,850 --> 00:29:25,370 In the mythology of the area, 567 00:29:25,400 --> 00:29:27,950 much of it likely predating even Buddhism, 568 00:29:27,990 --> 00:29:31,820 demons inhabit these forests, nasty demons. 569 00:29:31,860 --> 00:29:33,440 Buddha had 1,000 lives. 570 00:29:33,480 --> 00:29:35,820 In one of his 500 good lives, 571 00:29:35,860 --> 00:29:37,830 he was exiled to Bhutan 572 00:29:37,860 --> 00:29:40,830 because this was the most dreaded place... 573 00:29:40,860 --> 00:29:42,560 Maybe that's why you were never invaded. 574 00:29:42,590 --> 00:29:44,350 Yeah. 575 00:29:44,380 --> 00:29:47,870 One of the evil spirit is called Nyaladim, 576 00:29:47,910 --> 00:29:50,840 and she's supposed to be the commander in chief 577 00:29:50,870 --> 00:29:53,880 of all in the evil spirit. 578 00:29:53,910 --> 00:29:55,640 One of the most terrifying things 579 00:29:55,670 --> 00:29:58,020 you could ever see is her face. 580 00:29:58,050 --> 00:30:00,190 If you see her, you die... You drop dead instantly. 581 00:30:00,230 --> 00:30:01,540 You drop dead. 582 00:30:01,570 --> 00:30:03,580 So if Darren has to, like, take a piss 583 00:30:03,610 --> 00:30:04,883 and, you know, go out in the woods, 584 00:30:04,890 --> 00:30:06,580 that would... not advisable? Ah, no. 585 00:30:06,610 --> 00:30:08,930 It's not advisable to go out at night. 586 00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:10,883 And no lumbering. No one's cutting down trees here. 587 00:30:10,890 --> 00:30:13,520 No one. For as long as we know, 588 00:30:13,550 --> 00:30:15,860 the whole mountain range is virgin. 589 00:30:15,900 --> 00:30:17,103 Right, but what about putting the road through? 590 00:30:17,110 --> 00:30:19,040 I mean, maybe that's why you hire Indian guys. 591 00:30:19,070 --> 00:30:21,870 The road is on the other side of the mountain. 592 00:30:21,910 --> 00:30:23,870 We build it purposefully that way. 593 00:30:23,910 --> 00:30:26,430 Really? So, like, nobody's got a house or... 594 00:30:26,460 --> 00:30:29,020 No, nothing. Nothing. There's nothing like that. 595 00:30:29,050 --> 00:30:31,920 Even if people loses cattle, whatever, 596 00:30:31,950 --> 00:30:33,920 they don't go into there. Still? 597 00:30:33,950 --> 00:30:35,680 Still even to this day. 598 00:30:44,310 --> 00:30:44,810 ♪ 599 00:31:03,020 --> 00:31:03,520 ♪ 600 00:31:27,110 --> 00:31:30,010 ♪ 601 00:31:30,040 --> 00:31:32,980 Here in the mist covered valleys and imposing peaks, 602 00:31:33,010 --> 00:31:36,080 it's easy to imagine what this place looked like 603 00:31:36,120 --> 00:31:39,570 before Bhutan first opened the door to outsiders. 604 00:31:45,020 --> 00:31:46,130 ♪ 605 00:31:50,990 --> 00:31:54,270 ♪ 606 00:31:54,310 --> 00:31:57,100 Bumthang is the end of the road for us, 607 00:31:57,140 --> 00:32:00,110 the spiritual heartland of Bhutan. 608 00:32:00,140 --> 00:32:02,250 ♪ 609 00:32:05,390 --> 00:32:08,250 ♪ 610 00:32:08,290 --> 00:32:10,010 Archery is the national sport, 611 00:32:10,050 --> 00:32:12,460 an important community event that binds 612 00:32:12,500 --> 00:32:15,540 remote villages together in fierce competition 613 00:32:15,570 --> 00:32:17,780 and in a rollicking good time. 614 00:32:24,720 --> 00:32:27,310 ♪ 615 00:32:27,340 --> 00:32:29,480 Thank you very much. 616 00:32:29,520 --> 00:32:31,310 Today's the day of a match between 617 00:32:31,340 --> 00:32:35,110 Trongsa and a rival village. 618 00:32:35,140 --> 00:32:37,800 But first, food. 619 00:32:40,350 --> 00:32:43,320 Okay, you have to, you know? No, no, this... 620 00:32:43,360 --> 00:32:44,810 - Bigger. - See this way? 621 00:32:44,840 --> 00:32:46,290 Ah, right. Okay. 622 00:32:46,330 --> 00:32:47,710 No, yours too big. Too big. 623 00:32:47,740 --> 00:32:49,540 - Too big? Too... - Yeah, okay. 624 00:32:49,570 --> 00:32:51,160 - That's okay? - See, when you put it 625 00:32:51,190 --> 00:32:52,363 in the mouth, you have to put it this way. 626 00:32:52,370 --> 00:32:54,230 Oh, okay. 627 00:32:54,260 --> 00:32:56,340 No, it's not bulging. Is it bulging? 628 00:32:56,370 --> 00:32:58,650 - Oh, not bulging. - It should not bulge. 629 00:32:58,680 --> 00:33:00,200 No bulge. 630 00:33:00,240 --> 00:33:01,820 ♪ 631 00:33:01,860 --> 00:33:03,650 Oh, yeah, I'm down with that, man. 632 00:33:03,690 --> 00:33:05,170 - That's pork? - Mm-hmm. 633 00:33:05,210 --> 00:33:06,240 Why is it translucent? 634 00:33:06,280 --> 00:33:08,210 They braise it rather than fry it. 635 00:33:08,240 --> 00:33:10,380 So it becomes clear. Mmm. 636 00:33:10,420 --> 00:33:12,830 This is like unbelievable. 637 00:33:14,110 --> 00:33:15,560 We eat everything. 638 00:33:15,600 --> 00:33:18,080 We don't throw it out. This is the bone. 639 00:33:18,120 --> 00:33:21,190 - Bone. - On the leg. 640 00:33:21,220 --> 00:33:23,120 Chop it and boil it. 641 00:33:24,570 --> 00:33:27,330 Mmm. That's good, man. 642 00:33:27,370 --> 00:33:29,850 - Yeah. - That's just so good. 643 00:33:29,890 --> 00:33:33,170 - I'm going with the pepper. - Ooh. 644 00:33:33,200 --> 00:33:35,550 ♪ 645 00:33:35,580 --> 00:33:37,200 Ooh, that's setting my hair on fire. 646 00:33:37,240 --> 00:33:39,520 - Exactly. - This is dried turnip leaves. 647 00:33:39,550 --> 00:33:41,760 Oh, turnip greens. 648 00:33:43,180 --> 00:33:45,280 Turnip leaves is a delicacy in Bhutan. 649 00:33:45,320 --> 00:33:47,080 A little bit of butter. 650 00:33:47,110 --> 00:33:50,180 And milk. 651 00:33:50,220 --> 00:33:54,360 - Mmm. - Now this is a yak, no, leg. 652 00:33:54,390 --> 00:33:56,220 Yak leg. 653 00:33:56,260 --> 00:33:56,760 ♪ 654 00:34:00,500 --> 00:34:01,913 So does meat eating go all the way back 655 00:34:01,920 --> 00:34:04,400 or were people vegetarian... All the way back. 656 00:34:04,440 --> 00:34:05,710 All the way. In fact, 657 00:34:05,750 --> 00:34:08,550 the Bhutanese were considered cannibals. 658 00:34:08,580 --> 00:34:10,240 Say that again. 659 00:34:10,270 --> 00:34:12,380 Bhutanese were considered cannibals. 660 00:34:12,410 --> 00:34:16,100 The only vegetable we had was potato and radish. 661 00:34:16,140 --> 00:34:17,550 That's it, nothing else. Wow. 662 00:34:17,590 --> 00:34:20,590 People don't kill, but they would eat, 663 00:34:20,630 --> 00:34:23,390 you know, one another if somebody dies. 664 00:34:23,420 --> 00:34:24,763 We are not supposed to eat each other. 665 00:34:24,770 --> 00:34:26,220 You're not supposed to eat yak. 666 00:34:26,250 --> 00:34:27,593 No, no, we are not supposed to eat meat. 667 00:34:27,600 --> 00:34:29,260 You're not supposed to eat meats. 668 00:34:29,290 --> 00:34:30,873 Buddhism, I mean, the hard-core Buddhism. 669 00:34:30,880 --> 00:34:32,670 But culturally, because of terrain, 670 00:34:32,710 --> 00:34:35,120 we had no choice. Right. 671 00:34:35,160 --> 00:34:36,920 Ooh, is that bete nut? 672 00:34:36,950 --> 00:34:38,260 - Yeah. - Betel nut. 673 00:34:38,300 --> 00:34:40,440 - Oh, can I try? - Yeah. Yeah. 674 00:34:40,470 --> 00:34:42,170 I'm not having it. 675 00:34:42,200 --> 00:34:44,170 - Have you done it? - Yes, yes, I have. 676 00:34:45,340 --> 00:34:48,340 You asked for it. And you chew up the green? 677 00:34:48,380 --> 00:34:49,930 Yeah, everything chewed together... 678 00:34:49,970 --> 00:34:52,350 Like cud. 679 00:34:55,830 --> 00:34:57,630 Whoa. Oh man. 680 00:34:57,660 --> 00:35:00,250 Getting a buzz? 681 00:35:00,290 --> 00:35:03,530 My whole mouth is numb. 682 00:35:03,570 --> 00:35:06,290 I got to do something about this. 683 00:35:10,540 --> 00:35:12,200 Totally high off of that thing. 684 00:35:16,820 --> 00:35:20,510 ♪ 685 00:35:20,550 --> 00:35:23,650 Ah, jeez, just stepped into a fresh loaf of shit. 686 00:35:23,690 --> 00:35:24,720 Ugh. 687 00:35:30,390 --> 00:35:32,280 ♪ 688 00:35:32,320 --> 00:35:34,320 Whee! 689 00:35:34,360 --> 00:35:35,840 Ah, right here. Ah, yeah. 690 00:35:35,870 --> 00:35:40,190 Whoa, jeez. It's a serious distance. 691 00:35:40,220 --> 00:35:41,530 The rules are simple. 692 00:35:41,570 --> 00:35:44,500 Shoot your arrow the length of 1 1/2 football fields 693 00:35:44,540 --> 00:35:46,850 high in the air, in this case across 694 00:35:46,880 --> 00:35:49,540 the East-West Highway, all the way, hopefully, 695 00:35:49,580 --> 00:35:50,920 into a small target. 696 00:35:50,960 --> 00:35:52,750 Good luck with that. That's like... 697 00:35:52,790 --> 00:35:55,240 You would need a .50 caliber to hit that target. 698 00:35:55,270 --> 00:35:57,830 I could barely see it flying through the air. 699 00:35:57,860 --> 00:36:00,350 Can you see the arrows? No. 700 00:36:00,380 --> 00:36:02,210 Yeah! 701 00:36:14,400 --> 00:36:15,780 Wow, close. 702 00:36:15,810 --> 00:36:17,780 What's interesting is the other team 703 00:36:17,810 --> 00:36:19,950 is often standing by the target, 704 00:36:19,990 --> 00:36:22,020 and hanging out looking cool for as long as possible 705 00:36:22,060 --> 00:36:25,230 as an arrow flies in your general direction 706 00:36:25,270 --> 00:36:26,610 is standard practice. 707 00:36:26,650 --> 00:36:28,340 Yeah, yeah! 708 00:36:28,370 --> 00:36:30,930 Whoo! 709 00:36:34,280 --> 00:36:37,690 When points are scored, there's singing and dancing 710 00:36:37,730 --> 00:36:39,630 and a fair amount of what can only be called 711 00:36:39,660 --> 00:36:40,730 playful taunting. 712 00:36:40,770 --> 00:36:42,390 - Yeah! - Whoo! 713 00:36:43,600 --> 00:36:46,600 The Bhutanese version of "In your face!" 714 00:36:48,390 --> 00:36:50,050 Brag dance. 715 00:36:52,570 --> 00:36:54,540 - They're drinking that. - Yeah. 716 00:36:54,570 --> 00:36:56,610 What could possibly go wrong? 717 00:37:05,450 --> 00:37:06,790 One-in-a-million shot. 718 00:37:06,830 --> 00:37:08,380 Doonk! 719 00:37:08,410 --> 00:37:10,550 I love the little kid over there with the juice box, 720 00:37:10,590 --> 00:37:13,320 ten feet from the line of fire. 721 00:37:13,350 --> 00:37:14,490 Ah! 722 00:37:17,390 --> 00:37:18,420 Whoa, hey. 723 00:37:18,460 --> 00:37:19,630 Whoa! 724 00:37:24,950 --> 00:37:26,950 What are they screaming? 725 00:37:27,780 --> 00:37:29,300 Why? 726 00:37:30,440 --> 00:37:31,843 - So they're anti-cheerleaders. - Yes. 727 00:37:31,850 --> 00:37:33,370 What are they saying, though? 728 00:37:33,410 --> 00:37:35,860 Oh, the short guy, he can't hit, so... 729 00:37:35,890 --> 00:37:37,620 They calling him short? 730 00:37:37,650 --> 00:37:40,450 Yeah. All the bald head and everything. 731 00:37:43,550 --> 00:37:45,380 ♪ 732 00:37:47,660 --> 00:37:50,490 ♪ 733 00:37:50,530 --> 00:37:52,490 Whoa! 734 00:37:55,430 --> 00:37:56,950 Whoa. 735 00:38:00,400 --> 00:38:03,710 ♪ 736 00:38:07,090 --> 00:38:08,960 ♪ 737 00:38:15,480 --> 00:38:19,070 ♪ 738 00:38:45,620 --> 00:38:47,890 ♪ 739 00:38:47,930 --> 00:38:50,030 This is very religious site. 740 00:38:50,070 --> 00:38:52,170 It's called the Burning Lake. 741 00:38:52,210 --> 00:38:54,420 Burning Lake or Burning River? 742 00:38:54,450 --> 00:38:56,900 The Burning Lake, but I think it's actually a river. 743 00:38:59,040 --> 00:39:01,010 I see people are leaving prayer flags 744 00:39:01,040 --> 00:39:02,430 and these things. 745 00:39:02,460 --> 00:39:05,080 These are called sasas, these offerings. 746 00:39:05,120 --> 00:39:06,500 Sometimes they're made out of clay, 747 00:39:06,530 --> 00:39:07,950 and sometimes they're made out of 748 00:39:07,980 --> 00:39:09,740 actually the ashes of the dead. 749 00:39:09,780 --> 00:39:11,540 Whoa. 750 00:39:13,440 --> 00:39:14,890 Wow, that's pretty awesome. 751 00:39:14,920 --> 00:39:16,990 It's beautiful. 752 00:39:18,650 --> 00:39:20,510 A little pile of incense. 753 00:39:29,140 --> 00:39:31,450 ♪ 754 00:39:31,490 --> 00:39:33,590 Where do you think this country is headed? 755 00:39:33,630 --> 00:39:35,730 Honestly, I don't know what I believe. 756 00:39:35,770 --> 00:39:38,050 I don't know... I don't know if it's good or bad. 757 00:39:38,080 --> 00:39:40,220 It seems like Shangri-La. 758 00:39:40,260 --> 00:39:41,423 Like, for the place that invented 759 00:39:41,430 --> 00:39:43,430 Gross National Happiness, they're content 760 00:39:43,470 --> 00:39:45,610 at under $2 a day. Yes. 761 00:39:45,640 --> 00:39:47,440 I don't want my child herding yak, 762 00:39:47,470 --> 00:39:50,780 and I don't know that a lot of parents do, even here. 763 00:39:50,820 --> 00:39:52,440 Having a fully paved road across 764 00:39:52,480 --> 00:39:54,240 this entire country, this country's gonna be 765 00:39:54,270 --> 00:39:55,643 a very, very different place in five years. 766 00:39:55,650 --> 00:39:59,140 The question is, do they stay committed to happiness 767 00:39:59,170 --> 00:40:01,170 and not to consumption? Ooh. 768 00:40:01,210 --> 00:40:03,140 Getting off the plane when we got here, 769 00:40:03,180 --> 00:40:05,140 there were many flat-screen TVs. 770 00:40:05,180 --> 00:40:07,560 First comes electricity, then comes the television, 771 00:40:07,590 --> 00:40:10,840 then come pop stars and materialism. 772 00:40:10,870 --> 00:40:12,600 But maybe that's arrogant. Maybe that's just, 773 00:40:12,630 --> 00:40:15,530 you know, easy for me to say. I don't know. 774 00:40:15,570 --> 00:40:16,950 A lot of the people we talked to, 775 00:40:16,980 --> 00:40:18,873 there's a tremendous amount of respect of what they have. 776 00:40:18,880 --> 00:40:21,780 We're finally seeing the effects of climate change 777 00:40:21,810 --> 00:40:23,610 in a terrifying way, 778 00:40:23,640 --> 00:40:25,013 which they're all gonna be able to witness 779 00:40:25,020 --> 00:40:26,610 on their flat-screen TVs. 780 00:40:26,650 --> 00:40:28,860 You know, I think people are gonna really hold on 781 00:40:28,890 --> 00:40:30,170 to treasures like this. 782 00:40:30,200 --> 00:40:31,790 I know it's beautiful. 783 00:40:31,820 --> 00:40:34,660 I'm glad it hasn't been [...] up yet by the world. 784 00:40:34,690 --> 00:40:35,190 ♪ 785 00:40:43,180 --> 00:40:43,680 ♪ 786 00:40:51,740 --> 00:40:52,240 ♪ 787 00:41:01,200 --> 00:41:01,700 ♪ 788 00:41:07,830 --> 00:41:08,970 ♪ Let's go 789 00:41:12,070 --> 00:41:12,570 ♪ 790 00:41:27,220 --> 00:41:28,570 ♪ 791 00:41:32,200 --> 00:41:32,700 ♪ 792 00:41:47,690 --> 00:41:49,560 You're supposed to put them somewhere 793 00:41:49,590 --> 00:41:52,080 where they'll last for a while, and, uh... 794 00:41:52,110 --> 00:41:53,770 make a prayer. 795 00:41:53,800 --> 00:41:54,300 ♪ 57391

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