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♪ I took a walk
through this ♪
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00:01:06,238 --> 00:01:09,103
♪ Beautiful world
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00:01:09,138 --> 00:01:14,419
♪ Felt the cool rain
on my shoulder ♪
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00:01:14,453 --> 00:01:17,732
♪ Found something good
in this ♪
5
00:01:17,767 --> 00:01:20,666
♪ Beautiful world
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00:01:20,701 --> 00:01:26,293
♪ I felt the rain
getting colder ♪
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00:01:26,327 --> 00:01:29,675
- ♪ La, la
- ♪ Sha la, la, la, la
8
00:01:29,710 --> 00:01:31,781
♪ Sha la, la, la, la
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00:01:31,815 --> 00:01:35,681
- ♪ Sha la, la, la
- Sha la, la, la, la ♪
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00:01:35,716 --> 00:01:39,651
♪ Sha la, la, la, la, la
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♪
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I've been here before,
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00:01:51,904 --> 00:01:54,148
this coastline,
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00:01:54,183 --> 00:01:56,461
this city.
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00:01:56,495 --> 00:01:59,188
I was looking
for something then,
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00:01:59,222 --> 00:02:01,466
but instead I found this.
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00:02:01,500 --> 00:02:02,000
♪
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00:02:05,746 --> 00:02:07,196
Uruguay,
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00:02:07,230 --> 00:02:09,819
the tiny, underappreciated
South American country
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00:02:09,853 --> 00:02:15,445
tucked between
Argentina and Brazil.
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00:02:15,480 --> 00:02:17,999
Only 3 million people live here,
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00:02:18,034 --> 00:02:24,385
half of them in the
capital city of Montevideo.
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00:02:24,420 --> 00:02:27,043
I love this city.
I love this country.
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00:02:27,077 --> 00:02:29,735
I mean, there's a vibe here
that just...
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00:02:29,770 --> 00:02:32,566
It's unlike any other
place on the continent.
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00:02:32,600 --> 00:02:34,533
It's the opposite of New York
in a lot of ways.
27
00:02:34,568 --> 00:02:36,363
Like, people aren't
pushy here, you know?
28
00:02:36,397 --> 00:02:37,702
In New York,
everybody's, like, sort of
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00:02:37,709 --> 00:02:39,676
hungry and pushing and moving.
30
00:02:39,711 --> 00:02:41,506
Here it's extremely laid back.
31
00:02:41,540 --> 00:02:43,887
The only competition is soccer.
Well-
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00:02:43,922 --> 00:02:46,511
- That's the only time
that you get competitive,
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00:02:46,545 --> 00:02:48,202
and it gets extreme.
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00:02:50,135 --> 00:02:52,172
Ignacio Mattos is the chef/owner
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00:02:52,206 --> 00:02:55,830
of three very successful
restaurants in New York City,
36
00:02:55,865 --> 00:02:56,693
Estela,
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00:02:56,728 --> 00:02:58,488
Cafe Altro Paradiso,
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00:02:58,523 --> 00:03:00,076
and Flora Bar.
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00:03:00,110 --> 00:03:02,665
He's been a New Yorker
for the past 12 years,
40
00:03:02,699 --> 00:03:05,012
but he comes from here.
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00:03:05,046 --> 00:03:08,740
Uruguay is a pretty chill
and relaxed place
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00:03:08,774 --> 00:03:12,847
where you just can
disconnect from everything.
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00:03:12,882 --> 00:03:14,746
For me, it's a melting pot.
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00:03:14,780 --> 00:03:19,060
It's mostly Spanish
and Italian immigrant food.
45
00:03:19,095 --> 00:03:21,235
Bar Arocena in Montevideo's
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00:03:21,270 --> 00:03:23,237
Carrasco neighborhood
specializes
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00:03:23,272 --> 00:03:26,206
in Uruguay's unofficial
national sandwich,
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00:03:26,240 --> 00:03:28,622
the legendary Chivito,
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00:03:28,656 --> 00:03:29,933
24 hours a day,
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00:03:29,968 --> 00:03:33,454
seven days a week, since 1923.
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00:03:33,489 --> 00:03:37,700
A prince, a king,
a Gargantua among sandwiches,
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00:03:37,734 --> 00:03:40,116
this terror-inspiring
heap of protein
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00:03:40,150 --> 00:03:44,741
is built out of
steak, ham, bacon, cheese,
54
00:03:44,776 --> 00:03:47,744
hard-boiled egg,
mayo, and garnishes.
55
00:03:47,779 --> 00:03:50,402
That's, like,
a perfect sandwich.
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00:03:50,437 --> 00:03:52,404
Now, last time I was here,
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00:03:52,439 --> 00:03:54,579
I have to admit that
after about six days
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00:03:54,613 --> 00:03:56,719
I would've killed somebody
for a vegetable.
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00:03:56,753 --> 00:03:58,065
I mean, I didn't see a single...
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00:03:58,099 --> 00:03:59,599
You're gonna feel
like that very soon.
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00:04:02,034 --> 00:04:03,415
♪
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00:04:03,450 --> 00:04:06,004
"Nacho," as he's called
by nearly everyone,
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00:04:06,038 --> 00:04:08,282
started his career
at the age of 17
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00:04:08,317 --> 00:04:10,836
with a master of fire
and burning wood,
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00:04:10,871 --> 00:04:13,287
Argentinean chef
Francis Mallmann,
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00:04:13,322 --> 00:04:17,118
and stayed with him for ten
years before moving to the U.S.
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00:04:17,153 --> 00:04:21,088
Working for Francis Mallmann,
I felt at home.
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00:04:21,122 --> 00:04:23,124
They were just a bunch
of outsiders
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00:04:23,159 --> 00:04:25,506
that they found a place
where they belonged,
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00:04:25,541 --> 00:04:29,959
you know, finding this new
culture and, like, new flavors.
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00:04:29,993 --> 00:04:32,962
♪
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00:04:32,996 --> 00:04:34,998
- How often do you come?
- Every two years.
73
00:04:35,033 --> 00:04:36,345
And how long do you spend here?
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00:04:36,379 --> 00:04:39,209
I usually spend a week.
75
00:04:39,244 --> 00:04:42,834
- Why so little?
- We live in New York.
76
00:04:42,868 --> 00:04:44,525
You know what I'm talking about.
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00:04:44,560 --> 00:04:46,631
- Yeah, I do.
- I mean, I love it here,
78
00:04:46,665 --> 00:04:48,805
but it's... you know,
you have to commit to it here.
79
00:04:51,221 --> 00:04:52,637
But, you know,
you were born here.
80
00:04:52,671 --> 00:04:54,224
You spent your childhood here.
81
00:04:54,259 --> 00:04:55,985
Do you feel the way I feel
about this place?
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00:04:56,019 --> 00:04:59,678
It... it is special, right?
I-I think it's special.
83
00:04:59,713 --> 00:05:03,510
But I'm so far
detached from it...
84
00:05:03,544 --> 00:05:04,614
Right.
85
00:05:04,649 --> 00:05:06,202
...but I can go back to that,
86
00:05:06,236 --> 00:05:08,825
and I can just connect.
87
00:05:08,860 --> 00:05:10,827
Well, we'll see.
Over the next few days,
88
00:05:10,862 --> 00:05:12,829
we'll see if you can
just slide right back in.
89
00:05:12,864 --> 00:05:15,660
Oh, we will.
Oh, we will.
90
00:05:15,694 --> 00:05:18,007
There's no other way out.
There's no way around it.
91
00:05:18,041 --> 00:05:19,215
You have to.
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00:05:19,249 --> 00:05:19,749
♪
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00:05:29,743 --> 00:05:30,243
♪
94
00:06:21,450 --> 00:06:22,451
♪
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00:06:22,485 --> 00:06:24,418
Things to know about Uruguay.
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00:06:24,453 --> 00:06:27,732
It's progressive.
Weed is legal.
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00:06:27,766 --> 00:06:30,044
Abortions are easily accessible.
98
00:06:30,079 --> 00:06:32,322
Gay marriage,
universal healthcare,
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00:06:32,357 --> 00:06:35,636
free education
including college,
100
00:06:35,671 --> 00:06:38,570
and democracy is no joke here.
101
00:06:38,605 --> 00:06:43,989
96% of eligible Uruguayans
voted in the last election.
102
00:06:44,024 --> 00:06:48,269
Compare that to barely 60%
here in the U.S.
103
00:06:48,304 --> 00:06:50,271
There's something really
special about this place.
104
00:06:50,306 --> 00:06:51,445
You like it?
105
00:06:51,480 --> 00:06:53,102
It's really one of
my favorite countries.
106
00:06:53,136 --> 00:06:55,069
It's really...
Amazing.
107
00:06:55,104 --> 00:06:57,099
Many Uruguayans could say that
it is the worst place of the...
108
00:06:57,106 --> 00:06:58,935
Well, a lot of it...
That's weird.
109
00:06:58,970 --> 00:07:00,937
Some of the Uruguayans
I've spoken to
110
00:07:00,972 --> 00:07:03,112
are very ambivalent...
Yeah.
111
00:07:03,146 --> 00:07:06,149
- About your country.
- "I like it, but you know..."
112
00:07:06,184 --> 00:07:07,772
And this I don't
really understand.
113
00:07:09,325 --> 00:07:12,639
I meet Carina Novarese,
a journalist and editor
114
00:07:12,673 --> 00:07:14,951
with the newspaper
"El Observador"
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00:07:14,986 --> 00:07:18,023
at Escaramuza
Cafe and Bookstore.
116
00:07:18,058 --> 00:07:20,923
I think this thing
that Uruguayan has
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00:07:20,957 --> 00:07:22,614
that is kind of pessimistic
118
00:07:22,649 --> 00:07:24,057
and is always...
Sometimes complains too much
119
00:07:24,064 --> 00:07:27,308
about what we have
comes from before.
120
00:07:27,343 --> 00:07:31,278
1930s, '40s, and
after the Second World War,
121
00:07:31,312 --> 00:07:33,798
this was one of the Americas
as they used to call us.
122
00:07:33,832 --> 00:07:37,387
There are few reminders of
colonial days in Montevideo,
123
00:07:37,422 --> 00:07:40,943
but plenty of evidence
that this is the chief city
124
00:07:40,977 --> 00:07:43,842
of a dynamic
and progressive country.
125
00:07:43,877 --> 00:07:46,396
It was a pretty cool society.
126
00:07:46,431 --> 00:07:49,123
Healthcare was free,
cradle-to-grave.
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00:07:49,158 --> 00:07:53,196
Uh, education free.
Also a very big medium class.
128
00:07:53,231 --> 00:07:54,888
That is very important
for Uruguay.
129
00:07:54,922 --> 00:07:56,372
- Right.
- That began to change
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00:07:56,406 --> 00:07:58,339
after the '60s and '70s.
131
00:07:58,374 --> 00:08:00,549
One could say that
the prospect of
132
00:08:00,583 --> 00:08:02,516
socialist, or God forbid,
communist movements
133
00:08:02,551 --> 00:08:04,484
in Latin America in the '60s
134
00:08:04,518 --> 00:08:07,383
was an area
of great concern for the U.S.
135
00:08:07,417 --> 00:08:09,143
and its more
authoritarian-leaning
136
00:08:09,178 --> 00:08:11,180
allies in the region.
137
00:08:11,214 --> 00:08:14,252
So the emergence of the radical
National Liberation Movement,
138
00:08:14,286 --> 00:08:18,532
known as the Tupamaros, was
cause for alarm at the CIA.
139
00:08:18,567 --> 00:08:20,672
A lot of things happened
in the '60s
140
00:08:20,707 --> 00:08:22,363
in the context of Latin America.
141
00:08:22,398 --> 00:08:25,021
A lot of students, young people,
142
00:08:25,056 --> 00:08:27,817
were very active in politics.
143
00:08:27,852 --> 00:08:30,199
There weren't the low classes,
as you could say.
144
00:08:30,233 --> 00:08:32,056
They weren't the poor people
who were doing this.
145
00:08:32,063 --> 00:08:34,058
These are middle-class kids
and highly radicalized.
146
00:08:34,065 --> 00:08:35,445
Yeah.
At the beginning, I think,
147
00:08:35,480 --> 00:08:38,414
they really thought
they could change the system.
148
00:08:38,448 --> 00:08:41,417
With covert and overt
support by our country,
149
00:08:41,451 --> 00:08:43,557
a state of emergency
was declared,
150
00:08:43,592 --> 00:08:45,041
and a right-wing dictatorship
151
00:08:45,076 --> 00:08:47,250
grabbed hold of
the instruments of power
152
00:08:47,285 --> 00:08:49,563
launching a period of
repression that
153
00:08:49,598 --> 00:08:53,256
lasted from 1973 until 1985.
154
00:08:53,291 --> 00:08:56,536
Supported and often
guided by CIA officers
155
00:08:56,570 --> 00:08:58,468
trained in
what we call these days
156
00:08:58,503 --> 00:09:00,919
"enhanced
interrogation methods,"
157
00:09:00,954 --> 00:09:02,887
some of the most brutal bastards
158
00:09:02,921 --> 00:09:05,234
in the ugliest
military juntas on Earth
159
00:09:05,268 --> 00:09:09,410
crushed minds and bodies
in cells across Latin America.
160
00:09:09,445 --> 00:09:11,758
What kind of people were
finding themselves swept up?
161
00:09:11,792 --> 00:09:13,483
- Especially teachers.
- Teachers?
162
00:09:13,518 --> 00:09:16,797
- Professors from university.
- Troublesome intellectuals.
163
00:09:16,832 --> 00:09:18,592
Sometimes lawyers or...
164
00:09:18,627 --> 00:09:22,078
Something like 3% to 5%
of the entire population,
165
00:09:22,113 --> 00:09:25,254
uh, had gone through
the prison system.
166
00:09:25,288 --> 00:09:27,290
I mean, we're not talking
about incarceration.
167
00:09:27,325 --> 00:09:28,630
We're talking about...
No, no, no, no.
168
00:09:28,637 --> 00:09:29,983
They were tortured and then
169
00:09:30,017 --> 00:09:31,709
kept inside a prison system
170
00:09:31,743 --> 00:09:35,816
that was specifically designed
to pretty much destroy them.
171
00:09:35,851 --> 00:09:40,165
In the mid 1980s, the people
of Uruguay had had enough.
172
00:09:40,200 --> 00:09:42,478
Massive demonstrations
and strikes finally
173
00:09:42,512 --> 00:09:45,136
forced the government
to hold elections,
174
00:09:45,170 --> 00:09:47,276
and the military
was swept from power.
175
00:09:47,310 --> 00:09:49,968
We're now a democratic country
since 1984.
176
00:09:50,003 --> 00:09:52,764
- And how's it going?
- I think it's going well.
177
00:09:52,799 --> 00:09:56,009
We have troubles.
We are in Latin America.
178
00:09:56,043 --> 00:09:58,943
We'd like to believe that
we are a European country.
179
00:09:58,977 --> 00:10:00,358
We are not.
180
00:10:00,392 --> 00:10:02,774
- But are you optimistic?
- I am.
181
00:10:02,809 --> 00:10:04,189
I am.
182
00:10:04,224 --> 00:10:08,469
I don't see, like,
a huge crisis coming.
183
00:10:08,504 --> 00:10:13,095
But also when they came,
you never realized before too.
184
00:10:13,129 --> 00:10:13,629
♪
185
00:10:29,594 --> 00:10:31,182
♪
186
00:10:31,216 --> 00:10:32,528
When people think of this
187
00:10:32,562 --> 00:10:34,392
often overlooked little country,
188
00:10:34,426 --> 00:10:37,153
if they think of it at all,
they tend to think of it
189
00:10:37,188 --> 00:10:40,329
patronizingly as
Argentina's little brother.
190
00:10:40,363 --> 00:10:41,641
Not so.
191
00:10:41,675 --> 00:10:43,470
And that attitude
pushes people here
192
00:10:43,504 --> 00:10:45,334
to think of themselves
in many ways
193
00:10:45,368 --> 00:10:47,785
as existentially in opposition
194
00:10:47,819 --> 00:10:50,063
to their
bigger, louder neighbor.
195
00:10:50,097 --> 00:10:51,996
Where were you born?
Are you from Montevideo?
196
00:10:52,030 --> 00:10:54,067
No, no, I'm from Argentina.
197
00:10:54,101 --> 00:10:55,689
Is it a big difference
culturally,
198
00:10:55,724 --> 00:10:57,346
Argentina and Uruguay?
199
00:10:57,380 --> 00:10:59,797
Here, if you're
a little bit courageous,
200
00:10:59,831 --> 00:11:02,144
then you made it, you know?
It's a scene here.
201
00:11:02,178 --> 00:11:04,215
Like, to be flashy,
it... it's a scene.
202
00:11:04,249 --> 00:11:07,321
To be successful, it's not
something that is one scene.
203
00:11:07,356 --> 00:11:09,013
You got to do it quietly.
204
00:11:09,047 --> 00:11:11,153
There's a saying,
"[speaking Spanish]."
205
00:11:11,187 --> 00:11:13,258
It means "Stay in
the small thing," you know?
206
00:11:13,293 --> 00:11:15,157
Right..
207
00:11:15,191 --> 00:11:16,710
It's something that defines...
Right.
208
00:11:16,745 --> 00:11:19,437
Uruguay in a way.
209
00:11:19,471 --> 00:11:23,234
Lucia Soria is the
chef and owner of Jacinto
210
00:11:23,268 --> 00:11:25,443
in Montevideo's old city.
211
00:11:25,477 --> 00:11:28,722
She worked with Nacho
back in the Mallmann years.
212
00:11:28,757 --> 00:11:30,620
What was it like for a woman
213
00:11:30,655 --> 00:11:35,556
working in the restaurant
industry in the early 2000s?
214
00:11:35,591 --> 00:11:39,043
I was very lucky
because Francis, he had, like,
215
00:11:39,077 --> 00:11:42,115
this army of women... no?
Around him.
216
00:11:42,149 --> 00:11:44,393
You were surrounded by women
from the beginning?
217
00:11:44,427 --> 00:11:45,774
Yes. Yes.
218
00:11:45,808 --> 00:11:48,362
Is that an unusual situation
in Uruguay do you think?
219
00:11:48,397 --> 00:11:50,882
- I mean...
- I'm not asking you, man.
220
00:11:50,917 --> 00:11:52,290
You're... you're a man.
I'm asking...
221
00:11:52,297 --> 00:11:55,749
Oh, I sound like a woman.
222
00:11:55,784 --> 00:11:59,373
The food here takes its cues
from Spain and Italy.
223
00:11:59,408 --> 00:12:02,445
Homemade gnocchi
with mushrooms and pumpkin.
224
00:12:02,480 --> 00:12:06,380
Prawns with avocado,
apple, and wasabi.
225
00:12:06,415 --> 00:12:10,281
Beef tartare with quail egg.
226
00:12:10,315 --> 00:12:13,284
So when you were first
planning the menu for this place
227
00:12:13,318 --> 00:12:14,941
and thinking about the
concept...
228
00:12:14,975 --> 00:12:16,666
- Yeah.
- What inspired you?
229
00:12:16,701 --> 00:12:18,876
I wanted to have, like,
a small restaurant,
230
00:12:18,910 --> 00:12:21,430
but that you could have
a very nice everything,
231
00:12:21,464 --> 00:12:24,295
but small, you know?
You want fish?
232
00:12:24,329 --> 00:12:27,470
Very nice and a little
vegetables, you know?
233
00:12:27,505 --> 00:12:29,334
Right.
This is the most vegetables
234
00:12:29,369 --> 00:12:31,889
I've ever seen in this country
all in one time.
235
00:12:31,923 --> 00:12:33,407
We're all driven people
236
00:12:33,442 --> 00:12:35,271
at this table.
Yeah.
237
00:12:35,306 --> 00:12:36,714
You know, you went
all the way to New York.
238
00:12:36,721 --> 00:12:37,991
You have how many restaurants
in New York now?
239
00:12:37,998 --> 00:12:38,992
Just the one? Two?
Three.
240
00:12:38,999 --> 00:12:40,414
- Three.
- Three.
241
00:12:40,449 --> 00:12:41,684
- Nice number, man.
- You're not lazy.
242
00:12:41,691 --> 00:12:42,858
- No.
- It's just a little dump.
243
00:12:42,865 --> 00:12:44,108
You could have seven.
244
00:12:44,142 --> 00:12:45,626
I'm gonna guess
you're like this too.
245
00:12:45,661 --> 00:12:48,181
We're all driven people,
so where is your happy place?
246
00:12:48,215 --> 00:12:50,942
Well, I got married
on Saturday, and...
247
00:12:50,977 --> 00:12:53,117
- This past Saturday?
- Yes.
248
00:12:53,151 --> 00:12:57,673
That was the day that
I felt happy all day.
249
00:12:57,707 --> 00:13:02,022
But it's good because you cannot
have happiness all the time, no?
250
00:13:02,057 --> 00:13:03,292
Happiness is a thing that...
No, no.
251
00:13:03,299 --> 00:13:04,818
Happiness all the time
is fascism.
252
00:13:04,853 --> 00:13:06,468
- No. It doesn't exist, man.
- It's oppressive.
253
00:13:06,475 --> 00:13:08,304
It's oppressive.
You're not doing anything.
254
00:13:08,339 --> 00:13:11,514
But if you have
a few moments a week,
255
00:13:11,549 --> 00:13:14,448
will you just go,
"Oh, shit. I'm happy"?
256
00:13:14,483 --> 00:13:16,140
- Yeah.
- It sneaks up on you.
257
00:13:19,177 --> 00:13:19,677
♪
258
00:13:24,079 --> 00:13:26,184
Which is more satisfying,
259
00:13:26,219 --> 00:13:27,979
eating a good meal...
Yeah.
260
00:13:28,014 --> 00:13:29,360
Or cooking a good meal
261
00:13:29,394 --> 00:13:32,846
for somebody
you really care about?
262
00:13:32,881 --> 00:13:34,399
I think eating.
263
00:13:34,434 --> 00:13:36,885
I... I actually enjoy both,
264
00:13:36,919 --> 00:13:38,300
but I don't want
to hear anything.
265
00:13:38,334 --> 00:13:39,680
I don't want you to talk to me.
266
00:13:39,715 --> 00:13:41,192
I just want to see
your expression, like,
267
00:13:41,199 --> 00:13:42,683
seeing you're connecting
268
00:13:42,718 --> 00:13:44,996
without having to
have a dialogue about it.
269
00:13:45,031 --> 00:13:46,653
I'm not sure.
270
00:13:46,687 --> 00:13:48,689
Cooking for customers,
that's a different experience.
271
00:13:48,724 --> 00:13:52,486
Making an omelet for someone...
Mm.
272
00:13:52,521 --> 00:13:56,007
The morning after.
Just stay in.
273
00:13:56,042 --> 00:13:58,872
Yeah.
It's really the best.
274
00:13:58,907 --> 00:14:01,185
The guy that I marry,
275
00:14:01,219 --> 00:14:03,601
I was with him
for the first time.
276
00:14:03,635 --> 00:14:06,776
And I cooked three eggs,
two asparagus,
277
00:14:06,811 --> 00:14:10,573
and five cherry tomatoes
with my heart.
278
00:14:10,608 --> 00:14:14,198
And we had this small
but very beautiful
279
00:14:14,232 --> 00:14:17,373
breakfast, brunch, lunch.
280
00:14:17,408 --> 00:14:19,444
It's the best thing ever.
You're gonna make me cry.
281
00:14:19,479 --> 00:14:21,239
- You know?
- You're gonna make me cry.
282
00:14:21,274 --> 00:14:24,035
There's some basic urge
that made
283
00:14:24,070 --> 00:14:26,244
all of us at this table
want to cook.
284
00:14:26,279 --> 00:14:28,626
- Yeah.
- There is a desire to
285
00:14:28,660 --> 00:14:30,904
say something you can't say,
to nurture.
286
00:14:30,939 --> 00:14:34,218
So basic, and it's so
beautiful that it's so basic.
287
00:14:34,252 --> 00:14:34,752
♪
288
00:14:45,746 --> 00:14:46,246
♪
289
00:15:06,940 --> 00:15:10,392
Hablan por la Espalda
got together in 1996
290
00:15:10,426 --> 00:15:12,428
when they were all
just teenagers.
291
00:15:12,463 --> 00:15:13,843
They were considered pioneers
292
00:15:13,878 --> 00:15:16,467
of the DIY
hardcore movement here.
293
00:15:16,501 --> 00:15:18,434
Two decades on,
they're still one of
294
00:15:18,469 --> 00:15:20,402
the country's
most popular bands.
295
00:15:20,436 --> 00:15:23,681
And they recently opened
for Iggy Pop.
296
00:15:23,715 --> 00:15:27,478
♪
297
00:15:36,694 --> 00:15:38,938
Right, so what does everybody
do here? What do you do?
298
00:15:38,972 --> 00:15:40,801
- I'm psychologist.
- You're a psychologist?
299
00:15:40,836 --> 00:15:43,666
This will come in useful later.
300
00:15:43,701 --> 00:15:46,462
Musician and a...
I'm a writer too.
301
00:15:46,497 --> 00:15:49,293
- Writer and, uh, restaurateur.
- Yeah.
302
00:15:49,327 --> 00:15:51,295
I work in post production.
303
00:15:51,329 --> 00:15:52,952
- Post production?
- Yeah.
304
00:15:52,986 --> 00:15:55,713
That could be... actually this
is a very useful table.
305
00:15:58,509 --> 00:16:00,994
Fermin, the lead
singer and songwriter,
306
00:16:01,029 --> 00:16:02,168
grew up with Nacho.
307
00:16:02,202 --> 00:16:04,998
Tuca and Valentin play guitar.
308
00:16:05,033 --> 00:16:07,138
What do people like
to listen to in Uruguay?
309
00:16:07,173 --> 00:16:08,726
It's a very musical country,
I think.
310
00:16:08,760 --> 00:16:10,866
You know Candombe?
Yeah.
311
00:16:10,900 --> 00:16:14,007
Okay, that's our, like,
our native rhythm.
312
00:16:14,042 --> 00:16:17,493
And the folklore from here,
it used to be called...
313
00:16:17,528 --> 00:16:18,832
"protest music..."
Protest music.
314
00:16:18,839 --> 00:16:22,153
So it was, like,
late '60s, early '70s,
315
00:16:22,188 --> 00:16:23,879
was the most popular music.
316
00:16:23,913 --> 00:16:26,295
But then came the dictatorship.
Right, so no more of that.
317
00:16:26,330 --> 00:16:28,504
And everybody
had to leave the country.
318
00:16:28,539 --> 00:16:29,919
Yeah, dictatorships are usually,
319
00:16:29,954 --> 00:16:32,370
like, usually bad for music.
Yeah.
320
00:16:32,405 --> 00:16:34,055
They're good for
the underground music scene,
321
00:16:34,062 --> 00:16:35,056
but not so good for the...
322
00:16:35,063 --> 00:16:36,167
Not for the popular music.
323
00:16:39,550 --> 00:16:41,034
Do you want to smoke?
Yeah, sure.
324
00:16:41,069 --> 00:16:43,347
- I brought some.
- Excellent. Good idea.
325
00:16:43,381 --> 00:16:45,901
I... I am permitted
to smoke weed on camera now.
326
00:16:45,935 --> 00:16:49,422
- Yeah. You are in Uruguay.
- I am observing local custom.
327
00:16:49,456 --> 00:16:52,563
♪
328
00:16:52,597 --> 00:16:54,599
Proceed to smoke weed.
329
00:16:54,634 --> 00:16:56,774
It's cool.
Everybody's doing it.
330
00:16:56,808 --> 00:16:58,672
Somebody call
the elfin Jeff Sessions.
331
00:16:58,707 --> 00:17:00,053
He'll shit himself.
332
00:17:00,088 --> 00:17:01,537
How long
has weed been legal here?
333
00:17:01,572 --> 00:17:02,780
- One year.
- A year?
334
00:17:02,814 --> 00:17:04,575
- One year, yeah.
- A year? Awesome.
335
00:17:04,609 --> 00:17:07,060
But here, like, you could
smoke in the street...
336
00:17:07,095 --> 00:17:08,199
- Always.
- For always.
337
00:17:08,234 --> 00:17:09,545
Do you have dispensaries?
338
00:17:09,580 --> 00:17:10,815
Do you have stores
that you can go through?
339
00:17:10,822 --> 00:17:12,238
Yes, that's the problem
here now.
340
00:17:12,272 --> 00:17:13,749
The pharmacies cannot sell
because the...
341
00:17:13,756 --> 00:17:15,551
- The international banks...
- Right.
342
00:17:15,586 --> 00:17:17,519
Don't want to accept drug money.
343
00:17:17,553 --> 00:17:20,936
So if I were to open
a marijuana hydroponic farm...
344
00:17:20,970 --> 00:17:22,386
You can have your club.
345
00:17:22,420 --> 00:17:24,181
All right, when...
When we starting this?
346
00:17:24,215 --> 00:17:25,561
I don't know, man.
347
00:17:25,596 --> 00:17:27,287
Let me smoke another joint.
348
00:17:27,322 --> 00:17:28,288
There, you got it.
349
00:17:31,464 --> 00:17:31,964
♪
350
00:17:41,439 --> 00:17:41,939
♪
351
00:17:51,449 --> 00:17:52,933
What to do next?
352
00:17:52,968 --> 00:17:56,799
Pizza and beers, yo,
at Bar Las Flores.
353
00:17:56,834 --> 00:17:59,457
So, uh, here's
an interesting question.
354
00:17:59,492 --> 00:18:03,427
What is the national
pathology of Uruguay?
355
00:18:03,461 --> 00:18:05,981
- It is the envy from...
- Envy?
356
00:18:06,015 --> 00:18:08,949
Yes, Uruguayan very envy.
357
00:18:08,984 --> 00:18:11,573
You always envy, like...
358
00:18:11,607 --> 00:18:15,404
I cannot envy a very
big guitarist, guitar player.
359
00:18:15,439 --> 00:18:17,993
I cannot envy Paco de Lucia.
360
00:18:18,027 --> 00:18:20,651
I will envy
this kind of guitarist
361
00:18:20,685 --> 00:18:22,929
that plays almost like me,
just a little better.
362
00:18:22,963 --> 00:18:24,965
- Just a little better.
- Just a little better.
363
00:18:28,383 --> 00:18:29,453
Yeah.
364
00:18:29,487 --> 00:18:31,972
The envy is between brothers.
365
00:18:32,007 --> 00:18:34,147
Right.
Is this a destructive envy?
366
00:18:34,182 --> 00:18:37,702
Do Uruguayans want
other Uruguayans to succeed?
367
00:18:37,737 --> 00:18:39,670
- As long as they're far enough.
- Yeah.
368
00:18:39,704 --> 00:18:42,811
Not my neighbor.
Not in my neighborhood.
369
00:18:42,845 --> 00:18:44,675
This is an honest man.
I really like you.
370
00:18:44,709 --> 00:18:46,953
I love this Uruguayan.
He's in Mexico. He's great.
371
00:18:46,987 --> 00:18:48,989
I feel like
I'm talking to myself.
372
00:18:53,028 --> 00:18:54,512
♪
373
00:18:54,547 --> 00:18:57,550
The pizza here is
a bizarro stoner hybrid
374
00:18:57,584 --> 00:18:59,828
topped with
thin chickpea flatbread.
375
00:18:59,862 --> 00:19:02,210
Why?
I don't know.
376
00:19:02,244 --> 00:19:03,659
Makes sense though.
377
00:19:03,694 --> 00:19:05,627
The one on top of there
is a fainá.
378
00:19:05,661 --> 00:19:09,182
You should put fainá
on top of the pizza.
379
00:19:09,217 --> 00:19:11,011
Really?
380
00:19:11,046 --> 00:19:11,546
♪
381
00:19:17,742 --> 00:19:20,055
We call this pizza
no cheese now.
382
00:19:20,089 --> 00:19:23,196
- Yeah.
- He's a vegan, so he's...
383
00:19:23,231 --> 00:19:24,197
Really?
384
00:19:26,095 --> 00:19:27,511
I don't know
if I can work with you.
385
00:19:27,545 --> 00:19:28,719
22 years, I'm vegan.
386
00:19:28,753 --> 00:19:30,410
- Vegan?
- Yes, in Uruguay.
387
00:19:30,445 --> 00:19:32,585
Wow, that is
a revolutionary position.
388
00:19:32,619 --> 00:19:34,552
They used to be vegan too.
389
00:19:34,587 --> 00:19:36,209
- Yeah.
- You are such an asshole.
390
00:19:37,624 --> 00:19:39,212
He used to be
very vegan militant.
391
00:19:39,247 --> 00:19:40,593
So what did you eat?
392
00:19:40,627 --> 00:19:43,112
- Pizza.
- Yeah, but no cheese?
393
00:19:43,147 --> 00:19:44,838
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
394
00:19:44,873 --> 00:19:48,704
And this is on health grounds,
or you hate to herd animals?
395
00:19:48,739 --> 00:19:50,430
I don't know.
396
00:19:50,465 --> 00:19:52,432
Okay, if you had to kill
Fred Durst or a cow?
397
00:19:52,467 --> 00:19:53,571
- Oh...
- Or a cow.
398
00:19:53,606 --> 00:19:54,848
Fred. Fred.
399
00:19:56,574 --> 00:19:59,059
Look, this one.
Iggy Pop or a cow?
400
00:19:59,094 --> 00:20:00,233
I like Iggy Pop,
401
00:20:00,268 --> 00:20:02,373
but I will have to kill him.
402
00:20:02,408 --> 00:20:04,341
- No?
- No!
403
00:20:04,375 --> 00:20:06,964
No.
404
00:20:06,998 --> 00:20:08,586
Oh, no.
405
00:20:08,621 --> 00:20:11,348
- I just saw him live.
- You're a monster.
406
00:20:11,382 --> 00:20:13,695
You are not my therapist.
407
00:20:17,181 --> 00:20:17,681
♪
408
00:20:30,746 --> 00:20:33,473
♪
409
00:21:09,302 --> 00:21:09,802
♪
410
00:22:07,912 --> 00:22:09,638
All right, meat.
I want meat.
411
00:22:09,673 --> 00:22:10,701
And this is the place.
You want meat?
412
00:22:10,708 --> 00:22:12,469
Yes.
Yes, I do.
413
00:22:12,503 --> 00:22:15,472
This must be the place.
414
00:22:15,506 --> 00:22:18,371
His friends say
Marcello Quiben looks German,
415
00:22:18,406 --> 00:22:20,891
hence the name of his
small neighborhood restaurant
416
00:22:20,925 --> 00:22:23,514
"Parisa el Aleman."
417
00:22:23,549 --> 00:22:26,862
The beating heart of the place
is, of course, the Parisa,
418
00:22:26,897 --> 00:22:29,486
a grill where
dripping meats of many kinds
419
00:22:29,520 --> 00:22:32,385
are slowly cooked
over glowing wood coals.
420
00:22:32,420 --> 00:22:34,698
Why is this an Uruguayan thing? Why here?
421
00:22:34,732 --> 00:22:37,010
I mean, I know
you're a cattle country.
422
00:22:37,045 --> 00:22:39,254
I think the first settlers,
when they came in,
423
00:22:39,288 --> 00:22:42,050
they realized there was nothing
else but raising cattle.
424
00:22:42,084 --> 00:22:43,845
- Right.
- And they let it grow wild.
425
00:22:43,879 --> 00:22:45,916
- Uh-huh.
- And they over-populated.
426
00:22:45,950 --> 00:22:49,575
And, you know, gauchos,
they would roam the land,
427
00:22:49,609 --> 00:22:54,027
and they would kill it on
the spot and actually cook it...
428
00:22:54,062 --> 00:22:55,574
- Right there.
- ...right there on the spot.
429
00:22:55,581 --> 00:22:58,549
And actually, like, a lot of
times with the skin on.
430
00:22:58,584 --> 00:23:01,552
Really?
431
00:23:01,587 --> 00:23:04,417
Morcilla, or blood sausage.
432
00:23:04,452 --> 00:23:07,593
Oh, now this is what
it's all about for me now.
433
00:23:07,627 --> 00:23:09,422
Every great culture does this.
434
00:23:09,457 --> 00:23:11,148
It's moist.
I love it.
435
00:23:11,182 --> 00:23:14,082
Right when you kill it,
it's pretty amazing.
436
00:23:14,116 --> 00:23:16,705
Look, when they kill me,
that's the way I want to go.
437
00:23:16,740 --> 00:23:17,837
You know,
keep the heart beating,
438
00:23:17,844 --> 00:23:19,225
pump the blood into the bucket,
439
00:23:19,259 --> 00:23:22,573
let the village women
come and make sausage.
440
00:23:22,608 --> 00:23:23,747
Then chorizo.
441
00:23:23,781 --> 00:23:25,990
Then steak... gotta have that.
442
00:23:26,025 --> 00:23:29,131
In this case, rib eye.
443
00:23:29,166 --> 00:23:31,444
You should spend more time
in this country.
444
00:23:31,479 --> 00:23:34,585
I don't know.
I've been gone for 17, 18 years.
445
00:23:34,620 --> 00:23:35,897
Yeah.
446
00:23:35,931 --> 00:23:37,554
It feels kind of like the same.
447
00:23:37,588 --> 00:23:39,279
That's the magic
about this place.
448
00:23:39,314 --> 00:23:40,964
It's like, it feels like
traveling into the past.
449
00:23:40,971 --> 00:23:43,111
I don't see Starbucks
on every corner.
450
00:23:43,145 --> 00:23:46,079
I don't see McDonald's.
It's sort of unspoiled, right?
451
00:23:46,114 --> 00:23:48,143
This is pretty awesome.
I mean, am I missing something?
452
00:23:48,150 --> 00:23:50,463
Is there something that
really sucks about this country
453
00:23:50,498 --> 00:23:52,189
that I don't... I've not seen?
454
00:23:52,223 --> 00:23:55,503
I think this... it's a society
that's, like, very patriarchal.
455
00:23:55,537 --> 00:23:57,366
Ah.
456
00:23:57,401 --> 00:24:01,509
And it has a lot of colonial
tradition that overshadows...
457
00:24:01,543 --> 00:24:04,201
Yeah, but compared to what?
Compared to who?
458
00:24:04,235 --> 00:24:06,514
Who's doing really great
in that department?
459
00:24:06,548 --> 00:24:07,825
Denmark?
460
00:24:07,860 --> 00:24:10,172
It's, like, the happiest
country on Earth.
461
00:24:10,207 --> 00:24:12,381
I hate happy.
462
00:24:12,416 --> 00:24:14,342
I mean, you want to be
surrounded by happy people?
463
00:24:14,349 --> 00:24:18,629
Do you notice how melancholic
this place is and nostalgic?
464
00:24:18,664 --> 00:24:20,148
It's like
you walk on the street,
465
00:24:20,182 --> 00:24:22,219
and you just, like, feel it.
Yeah.
466
00:24:22,253 --> 00:24:24,773
It's, like,
the melancholy, it's...
467
00:24:24,808 --> 00:24:26,154
I like that.
468
00:24:29,364 --> 00:24:29,864
♪
469
00:24:39,685 --> 00:24:41,410
Nacho Mattos grew up
470
00:24:41,445 --> 00:24:43,654
about 45 minutes
north of the capital
471
00:24:43,689 --> 00:24:47,175
in Santa Lucia,
a small town of 16,000 people
472
00:24:47,209 --> 00:24:51,731
surrounded by farmland
and cattle and sheep ranches.
473
00:24:51,766 --> 00:24:56,391
I think as a child, it was
an incredible place to grow up.
474
00:24:56,425 --> 00:24:59,325
You know, I like escaping and
going fishing on the river,
475
00:24:59,359 --> 00:25:01,879
and that's pretty safe,
you know?
476
00:25:01,914 --> 00:25:04,986
Like, the doors
were always open.
477
00:25:05,020 --> 00:25:08,507
But I didn't feel like
I fit in at all.
478
00:25:10,301 --> 00:25:15,548
And I needed to find a place
and a way to express myself.
479
00:25:15,583 --> 00:25:17,343
We were raised as very liberal,
480
00:25:17,377 --> 00:25:20,933
but at the same time,
it's conservative.
481
00:25:20,967 --> 00:25:24,281
As a teenager, it was kind of
like everything the same.
482
00:25:24,315 --> 00:25:26,697
It's just, you didn't
feel that interesting.
483
00:25:26,732 --> 00:25:29,873
And yeah,
it wasn't fun as a teenager.
484
00:25:29,907 --> 00:25:32,461
♪
485
00:25:32,496 --> 00:25:35,430
His family own a dairy farm
just outside of town.
486
00:25:35,464 --> 00:25:37,915
Nacho's mother, Gloria,
runs the farm
487
00:25:37,950 --> 00:25:40,297
along with his brother, Leandro.
488
00:25:40,331 --> 00:25:42,713
Nacho's sister, Rocio,
lives in Montevideo
489
00:25:42,748 --> 00:25:46,717
but comes home often
for family meals like this.
490
00:25:46,752 --> 00:25:48,609
What's the name of this town?
You grew up here? This house?
491
00:25:48,616 --> 00:25:50,403
- Santa Lucia. Yeah.
- You grew up in this house?
492
00:25:50,410 --> 00:25:52,412
Yes.
For the most part, yeah.
493
00:25:52,447 --> 00:25:54,932
It's beautiful. Why
would you ever leave this place?
494
00:25:54,967 --> 00:25:56,934
It's fantastic.
He never liked this place.
495
00:25:56,969 --> 00:25:58,142
- No?
- No, never.
496
00:25:58,177 --> 00:26:00,075
I felt like he had, like,
497
00:26:00,110 --> 00:26:04,079
anger of being
on such a small town.
498
00:26:04,114 --> 00:26:06,461
He always had, like,
been on the front.
499
00:26:06,495 --> 00:26:09,878
I couldn't fit in here,
so I get out of the house,
500
00:26:09,913 --> 00:26:11,431
and I actually call her
501
00:26:11,466 --> 00:26:13,116
and say that I wanted
to go to culinary school.
502
00:26:13,123 --> 00:26:14,711
"This is what I want to do.
503
00:26:14,745 --> 00:26:16,298
I need support,
and I pay you back."
504
00:26:16,333 --> 00:26:20,924
And one year goes, and
I drop it to work for Francis.
505
00:26:20,958 --> 00:26:23,236
I... I love that you went
from being a vegan to
506
00:26:23,271 --> 00:26:24,783
working with Francis Mallmann...
Yeah, yeah.
507
00:26:24,790 --> 00:26:27,482
...who's, like, you know,
the Satan of vegans.
508
00:26:27,516 --> 00:26:29,588
What was at the dinner table
when you grew up?
509
00:26:29,622 --> 00:26:32,452
Mom wasn't that... it wasn't
that skillful in the kitchen.
510
00:26:32,487 --> 00:26:34,765
- Oh, that's cold, man.
- I know, but it is true.
511
00:26:34,800 --> 00:26:36,146
She was the one in charge.
512
00:26:36,180 --> 00:26:37,941
So you grew up eating
a lot of Italian food?
513
00:26:37,975 --> 00:26:40,357
Yes.
514
00:26:40,391 --> 00:26:43,602
Nacho's grandmother,
Ercilia, was born here,
515
00:26:43,636 --> 00:26:46,294
the child of Italian immigrants.
516
00:26:46,328 --> 00:26:48,123
I grew up around my grandmother,
517
00:26:48,158 --> 00:26:50,954
like, constantly cooking.
518
00:26:50,988 --> 00:26:53,784
And that was her form
of affection
519
00:26:53,819 --> 00:26:56,097
and a way of, like,
520
00:26:56,131 --> 00:26:58,651
showing that she cared
and she love you.
521
00:27:04,692 --> 00:27:05,192
♪
522
00:27:12,078 --> 00:27:14,460
Her tucco, her version
of Sunday gravy,
523
00:27:14,494 --> 00:27:17,187
is made from porchetta,
cured pork ribs,
524
00:27:17,221 --> 00:27:20,224
and hunks of beef
simmered for hours.
525
00:27:30,683 --> 00:27:32,305
There's also matambre,
526
00:27:32,340 --> 00:27:34,894
a local specialty
of rolled stuffed beef
527
00:27:34,929 --> 00:27:38,691
served alongside Russian salad.
528
00:27:38,726 --> 00:27:40,348
So when did you start cooking?
529
00:27:40,382 --> 00:27:43,972
I think... I think it was,
like, my mom get divorced,
530
00:27:44,007 --> 00:27:46,009
and I realized
that she needed help,
531
00:27:46,043 --> 00:27:49,840
and I start cooking
as a way of support.
532
00:27:49,875 --> 00:27:52,532
- Mm-hmm.
- Then I decide to become vegan,
533
00:27:52,567 --> 00:27:54,707
and she was like...
She threw the towel.
534
00:27:54,742 --> 00:27:57,848
And I was like... and
and she stopped cooking for us.
535
00:27:57,883 --> 00:28:00,989
So I start taking the
initiative, and I start cooking.
536
00:28:01,024 --> 00:28:02,266
Well, you had to because
537
00:28:02,301 --> 00:28:04,544
you were the only vegan
in all of Uruguay.
538
00:28:09,480 --> 00:28:09,980
♪
539
00:28:13,761 --> 00:28:15,383
How often does he come back?
540
00:28:15,417 --> 00:28:17,109
- Two years?
- It's been two years?
541
00:28:17,143 --> 00:28:19,214
- Mm-hmm.
- I like it. I like it.
542
00:28:19,249 --> 00:28:22,873
I like it in a different way.
I like it far away.
543
00:28:24,426 --> 00:28:28,741
If he would find
the thing to do here,
544
00:28:28,776 --> 00:28:30,294
like, he would be happy,
545
00:28:30,329 --> 00:28:34,057
but the things he wants to do
are not here.
546
00:28:34,091 --> 00:28:36,059
♪
547
00:28:38,268 --> 00:28:39,925
Si?
Yeah, it's good.
548
00:28:39,959 --> 00:28:42,721
- It's so comforting.
- Yeah.
549
00:28:42,755 --> 00:28:44,136
This makes me happy.
550
00:28:44,170 --> 00:28:44,670
♪
551
00:29:06,641 --> 00:29:09,092
♪
552
00:29:18,170 --> 00:29:21,345
♪
553
00:29:41,193 --> 00:29:43,609
Fishing from kayaks
is... is amazing.
554
00:29:43,643 --> 00:29:45,369
First of all,
it's easy, really easy.
555
00:29:45,404 --> 00:29:47,544
You don't need
any motor or nothing.
556
00:29:47,578 --> 00:29:50,098
It's just bring the kayak
to the shore
557
00:29:50,133 --> 00:29:51,651
and paddle in.
558
00:29:51,686 --> 00:29:52,186
♪
559
00:30:44,394 --> 00:30:47,846
A couple of hours east
of Montevideo, the coast,
560
00:30:47,880 --> 00:30:50,227
and the seaside towns
of high-gloss,
561
00:30:50,262 --> 00:30:52,402
big money, Punta del Este,
562
00:30:52,436 --> 00:30:55,336
and the slightly more
laid back Jose Ignacio,
563
00:30:55,370 --> 00:30:57,165
once a sleepy fishing village,
564
00:30:57,200 --> 00:30:59,374
and now a Hamptonian
vacation hotspot
565
00:30:59,409 --> 00:31:02,584
for the money class
from all over the world.
566
00:31:02,619 --> 00:31:03,119
♪
567
00:31:09,108 --> 00:31:13,216
Cantina del Vigia, thankfully,
is open in the off season.
568
00:31:13,250 --> 00:31:17,289
Diego Robino is a film producer
and occasional fisherman,
569
00:31:17,323 --> 00:31:19,878
and Clo Dimet
is a chef and owner of
570
00:31:19,912 --> 00:31:22,604
a posada in Jose Ignacio.
571
00:31:22,639 --> 00:31:24,089
So what town is this?
Where am I?
572
00:31:24,123 --> 00:31:25,884
- This is Maldonado.
- Maldonado.
573
00:31:25,918 --> 00:31:29,818
And this is, like, the capital
of all these fancy beach towns,
574
00:31:29,853 --> 00:31:31,717
but this is where
the working class people live.
575
00:31:31,751 --> 00:31:34,409
It's the city where
most people live all the year.
576
00:31:34,444 --> 00:31:37,550
Cantina's chef/owner
is Federico Desseno.
577
00:31:37,585 --> 00:31:40,588
Like Nacho, another
Francis Mallmann veteran.
578
00:31:40,622 --> 00:31:43,936
Diego brought some fish
he caught today.
579
00:31:43,971 --> 00:31:47,906
We got empanadas with corn
and shredded slow-cooked beef.
580
00:31:47,940 --> 00:31:49,459
Ooh, nice.
Love it.
581
00:31:49,493 --> 00:31:51,081
Oh, I'm liking
this meal already.
582
00:31:51,116 --> 00:31:53,912
There's goat cheese
and spinach croquettes.
583
00:31:55,465 --> 00:31:56,915
- Mmm.
- Nice.
584
00:31:56,949 --> 00:31:58,951
- Look at the catch.
- Oh, look at that.
585
00:31:58,986 --> 00:32:01,678
- This is the catch of the day.
- Beautiful.
586
00:32:01,712 --> 00:32:03,576
♪
587
00:32:03,611 --> 00:32:07,960
So today Diego went
on one of the roughest day
588
00:32:07,995 --> 00:32:11,101
in the ocean
to get fish somehow.
589
00:32:11,136 --> 00:32:12,654
We're talking about,
like, hard work.
590
00:32:12,689 --> 00:32:14,967
I mean, the kitchen is hard,
but like, fishermen...
591
00:32:15,002 --> 00:32:17,625
No, the fact that you are
alone in the middle of the ocean
592
00:32:17,659 --> 00:32:20,766
with all this
destruction around you...
593
00:32:20,800 --> 00:32:23,286
That's why we play soccer.
594
00:32:26,841 --> 00:32:29,602
There are
two wood-fired ovens producing
595
00:32:29,637 --> 00:32:34,435
this thing, provoleta,
a beautiful slab of cheese
596
00:32:34,469 --> 00:32:37,645
which puffs up and
inflates in the heat.
597
00:32:37,679 --> 00:32:40,303
Wow.
598
00:32:40,337 --> 00:32:41,649
Whoa, and this is the cheese?
599
00:32:41,683 --> 00:32:43,271
The history...
This is the cheese.
600
00:32:43,306 --> 00:32:45,653
Normally if you're doing
a grill with friends,
601
00:32:45,687 --> 00:32:50,037
this is the only thing
you will get that is not meat.
602
00:32:50,071 --> 00:32:52,901
Whole-roasted suckling
wild boar.
603
00:32:52,936 --> 00:32:53,436
♪
604
00:32:57,423 --> 00:32:59,529
Wow, that's spectacular.
605
00:32:59,563 --> 00:33:01,462
And whole-roasted fish.
606
00:33:01,496 --> 00:33:01,996
♪
607
00:33:06,053 --> 00:33:07,019
- Whoa.
- Fish.
608
00:33:07,054 --> 00:33:08,365
- Fish.
- Wow.
609
00:33:13,543 --> 00:33:15,510
And milanesa.
610
00:33:15,545 --> 00:33:17,823
Here in Uruguay,
not veal as in Italy,
611
00:33:17,857 --> 00:33:20,929
but a pounded, breaded,
and fried hunk of beef
612
00:33:20,964 --> 00:33:26,142
covered in tomato sauce, ham,
and melted mozzarella cheese.
613
00:33:26,176 --> 00:33:27,350
Oh, more cheese.
All right.
614
00:33:27,384 --> 00:33:28,696
Milanesa.
615
00:33:28,730 --> 00:33:30,422
This is milanesa napolitana.
616
00:33:30,456 --> 00:33:31,871
- Right.
- And it's a typical dish.
617
00:33:31,906 --> 00:33:34,357
And the people here
eat a lot of milanesa.
618
00:33:34,391 --> 00:33:37,049
- We grew up with this.
- All the people.
619
00:33:37,084 --> 00:33:38,499
Holy moley.
620
00:33:38,533 --> 00:33:40,708
Yeah, you know this is
good cold, too, right?
621
00:33:40,742 --> 00:33:42,054
First thing in the morning?
622
00:33:42,089 --> 00:33:43,883
Cold?
It's great.
623
00:33:43,918 --> 00:33:45,885
See, you have an instinctive
sense in this country
624
00:33:45,920 --> 00:33:48,026
of what people need.
625
00:33:48,060 --> 00:33:48,560
♪
626
00:34:01,798 --> 00:34:02,298
♪
627
00:34:17,676 --> 00:34:20,368
How much you loving Uruguay?
628
00:34:20,403 --> 00:34:21,914
You still loving it,
or you change your mind?
629
00:34:21,921 --> 00:34:24,407
I love it.
It's beautiful, so laid back.
630
00:34:24,441 --> 00:34:25,615
You haven't changed that...
631
00:34:25,649 --> 00:34:27,203
Your mind a little bit?
No.
632
00:34:27,237 --> 00:34:29,239
Feel tense about anything,
I smoke a little weed.
633
00:34:29,274 --> 00:34:33,416
I feel better.
634
00:34:33,450 --> 00:34:37,282
Yeah?
I'm getting hungry actually.
635
00:34:37,316 --> 00:34:38,835
Yeah, what's
on the menu tonight?
636
00:34:38,869 --> 00:34:40,285
Got some quinoa?
Maybe some quinoa.
637
00:34:40,319 --> 00:34:41,589
I don't think
it exists, quinoa, here.
638
00:34:41,596 --> 00:34:42,970
You might see it
in some health store.
639
00:34:42,977 --> 00:34:44,427
Yeah.
I don't even know what it is.
640
00:34:44,461 --> 00:34:45,773
I don't know that
I've ever had it.
641
00:34:45,807 --> 00:34:47,671
It's like, I used to
really like kale,
642
00:34:47,706 --> 00:34:49,183
I used to love kale, but now I
don't want to eat it because...
643
00:34:49,190 --> 00:34:50,778
You'd become pretty annoying.
644
00:34:50,812 --> 00:34:53,263
They're making, like,
smoothies out of the shit.
645
00:34:53,298 --> 00:34:54,989
Are we doing steak?
646
00:34:55,023 --> 00:34:56,956
If we can do steak,
that's what you eat...
647
00:34:56,991 --> 00:34:59,821
That's... that's what we have.
648
00:34:59,856 --> 00:35:01,029
Yeah.
649
00:35:01,064 --> 00:35:03,135
Yeah, I was thinking
just off the top of my head.
650
00:35:03,170 --> 00:35:05,344
"What do I want tonight?
Uh...
651
00:35:05,379 --> 00:35:07,415
How about meat?
Yeah, yeah, meat."
652
00:35:11,488 --> 00:35:14,526
I know where to go.
I've actually never been.
653
00:35:14,560 --> 00:35:16,493
This friend told me about it.
654
00:35:16,528 --> 00:35:19,945
But the funny thing,
it's a drive-thru.
655
00:35:19,979 --> 00:35:21,153
Drive-thru steak?
656
00:35:25,330 --> 00:35:27,642
I know.
Like, I'm... surprised as you are.
657
00:35:27,677 --> 00:35:29,782
Cocktails? Do we get
cocktails in the drive-thru?
658
00:35:29,817 --> 00:35:32,820
I doubt it, but I'm sure
we can get some beer.
659
00:35:32,854 --> 00:35:35,063
- All right, steak it is.
- Let's do it.
660
00:35:35,098 --> 00:35:35,598
♪
661
00:35:39,999 --> 00:35:43,486
Diego wants you to know that
his other car is a Ferrari.
662
00:35:43,520 --> 00:35:47,006
♪
663
00:35:47,041 --> 00:35:49,043
Hey, what's up, man?
664
00:36:08,890 --> 00:36:10,720
Hey, so far it's working.
665
00:36:10,754 --> 00:36:13,343
I think they use this
in the desert.
666
00:36:13,378 --> 00:36:17,175
Yeah, they're pretty common
here, right, like, on the beach?
667
00:36:17,209 --> 00:36:18,693
Not good for winter.
668
00:36:18,728 --> 00:36:21,248
No.
669
00:36:21,282 --> 00:36:21,782
♪
670
00:36:40,059 --> 00:36:40,559
♪
671
00:36:46,583 --> 00:36:50,104
Las Nenas for drive-thru steak.
672
00:37:20,099 --> 00:37:21,446
A beer or...
673
00:37:21,480 --> 00:37:23,275
- Cerveza.
- Yeah, beer.
674
00:37:25,312 --> 00:37:27,106
Okay, gracias.
675
00:37:30,627 --> 00:37:31,127
♪
676
00:37:44,123 --> 00:37:47,817
Gracias.
677
00:37:47,851 --> 00:37:50,578
Do we have, uh,
knives and forks somewhere?
678
00:37:50,613 --> 00:37:51,752
Inside of each box.
679
00:37:51,786 --> 00:37:53,132
They're there.
Oh, okay.
680
00:37:53,167 --> 00:37:54,202
You need potatoes.
681
00:37:54,237 --> 00:37:55,721
Yeah, I got potatoes in there.
682
00:37:59,553 --> 00:38:03,350
Yeah, this could be a challenge.
683
00:38:03,384 --> 00:38:05,144
Hey, the meat's good.
684
00:38:05,179 --> 00:38:07,174
You should bring your own
cutlery, you know, next time.
685
00:38:07,181 --> 00:38:08,251
Yeah.
686
00:38:23,231 --> 00:38:23,731
♪
687
00:38:37,349 --> 00:38:40,352
La Caracola is a party space
on a strip of sand
688
00:38:40,387 --> 00:38:43,493
about ten minutes
outside of Jose Ignacio.
689
00:38:43,528 --> 00:38:46,703
The ocean on one side,
a lagoon on the other.
690
00:38:46,738 --> 00:38:48,360
During the high season,
691
00:38:48,395 --> 00:38:51,225
it's a regular hangout
for over-the-top asados.
692
00:38:51,259 --> 00:38:55,263
Today Nacho is supervising
a meal for a bunch of friends.
693
00:39:01,235 --> 00:39:03,686
Hey, guys.
694
00:39:13,903 --> 00:39:15,939
What's going on in here?
695
00:39:15,974 --> 00:39:18,252
Hey. How's it going?
696
00:39:18,286 --> 00:39:20,116
- Very good.
- So this is Martin.
697
00:39:20,150 --> 00:39:22,014
- Hey, how are you?
- How are you?
698
00:39:22,049 --> 00:39:24,845
Martin Pittaluga is
the co-owner of La Huella,
699
00:39:24,879 --> 00:39:26,364
a restaurant in town
that also serves
700
00:39:26,398 --> 00:39:28,227
as the mother ship
for this place.
701
00:39:28,262 --> 00:39:30,195
- Right?
- Man, what a spot.
702
00:39:30,229 --> 00:39:32,121
- I mean, you look at this...
- The weather is good?
703
00:39:32,128 --> 00:39:33,898
The weather is difficult,
but it's beautiful.
704
00:39:33,923 --> 00:39:35,442
You'll stay the whole day.
705
00:39:35,476 --> 00:39:38,099
You know, you arrive at 2:00,
and you leave at 9:00.
706
00:39:38,134 --> 00:39:40,412
Nice.
So, jefe, what's cooking?
707
00:39:40,447 --> 00:39:42,414
♪
708
00:39:42,449 --> 00:39:45,037
So it's one of the spots
in the fire oven.
709
00:39:45,072 --> 00:39:47,419
Wow. Look at that,
a whole fish baked in salt?
710
00:39:47,454 --> 00:39:48,420
Yes.
711
00:39:48,455 --> 00:39:48,955
♪
712
00:39:59,811 --> 00:40:01,329
Some whole rib eye slabs.
713
00:40:01,364 --> 00:40:02,917
Rib eyes. Wow.
714
00:40:02,952 --> 00:40:04,712
Some suckling pig.
It's not some snack.
715
00:40:04,747 --> 00:40:07,128
That's no snack, man.
That's a meal right there. Wow.
716
00:40:07,163 --> 00:40:08,751
You want to help
in the kitchen, or...
717
00:40:08,785 --> 00:40:10,856
- The carving, yeah, man.
- All right.
718
00:40:18,519 --> 00:40:20,176
Everybody's here.
719
00:40:20,210 --> 00:40:25,112
Fermin, the guys from the
band, Lucia, Federico, Diego,
720
00:40:25,146 --> 00:40:27,977
and it's time to eat.
721
00:40:28,011 --> 00:40:31,290
Oh, yeah.
Come on, it's perfect, right?
722
00:40:31,325 --> 00:40:32,602
Right.
723
00:40:32,637 --> 00:40:34,466
So how long has
this place been here?
724
00:40:34,501 --> 00:40:36,019
Like, about 12 years.
725
00:40:36,054 --> 00:40:38,159
It started as, like,
a shack or a house or a...
726
00:40:38,194 --> 00:40:41,300
It used to be a little house
on the beach with a bar.
727
00:40:41,335 --> 00:40:43,371
You're not allowed
to build here anymore, so
728
00:40:43,406 --> 00:40:47,375
I bought all this land, and
that's the only thing we can do.
729
00:40:50,827 --> 00:40:51,327
♪
730
00:40:56,212 --> 00:40:57,972
- Man, the food is delicious.
- Yeah.
731
00:40:58,007 --> 00:41:01,631
Look at us out here
on a sandbar, middle of nowhere,
732
00:41:01,666 --> 00:41:03,184
eating like gods.
733
00:41:03,219 --> 00:41:06,705
But this is what
I love about Uruguay, no?
734
00:41:06,740 --> 00:41:08,673
Then you suddenly...
You take a drive,
735
00:41:08,707 --> 00:41:10,226
even, like,
one hour and a half...
736
00:41:10,260 --> 00:41:11,641
And you're someplace different.
737
00:41:11,676 --> 00:41:13,298
And you're in a different world.
738
00:41:13,332 --> 00:41:14,672
Good to see. I mean,
this is really exciting here.
739
00:41:14,679 --> 00:41:16,025
I love it here.
740
00:41:16,059 --> 00:41:17,613
Every day he asks,
"Are you sure?"
741
00:41:17,647 --> 00:41:19,373
Every day. Every day.
Hold on. Hold on.
742
00:41:19,407 --> 00:41:21,237
- Do you really love it, Tony?
- Every day.
743
00:41:21,271 --> 00:41:22,852
- Do you Really? Really?
- Shut up, I asked you once.
744
00:41:22,859 --> 00:41:25,344
He says this...
He says this every day.
745
00:41:25,379 --> 00:41:26,967
Every day.
746
00:41:27,001 --> 00:41:27,968
♪
747
00:41:59,724 --> 00:42:00,224
♪
55303
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