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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:01:04,133 --> 00:01:06,204 ♪ I took a walk through this ♪ 2 00:01:06,238 --> 00:01:09,103 ♪ Beautiful world 3 00:01:09,138 --> 00:01:14,419 ♪ Felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ 4 00:01:14,453 --> 00:01:17,732 ♪ Found something good in this ♪ 5 00:01:17,767 --> 00:01:20,666 ♪ Beautiful world 6 00:01:20,701 --> 00:01:26,293 ♪ I felt the rain getting colder ♪ 7 00:01:26,327 --> 00:01:29,675 - ♪ La, la - ♪ Sha la, la, la, la 8 00:01:29,710 --> 00:01:31,781 ♪ Sha la, la, la, la 9 00:01:31,815 --> 00:01:35,681 - ♪ Sha la, la, la - Sha la, la, la, la ♪ 10 00:01:35,716 --> 00:01:39,651 ♪ Sha la, la, la, la, la 11 00:01:46,485 --> 00:01:49,109 ♪ 12 00:01:49,143 --> 00:01:51,870 I've been here before, 13 00:01:51,904 --> 00:01:54,148 this coastline, 14 00:01:54,183 --> 00:01:56,461 this city. 15 00:01:56,495 --> 00:01:59,188 I was looking for something then, 16 00:01:59,222 --> 00:02:01,466 but instead I found this. 17 00:02:01,500 --> 00:02:02,000 ♪ 18 00:02:05,746 --> 00:02:07,196 Uruguay, 19 00:02:07,230 --> 00:02:09,819 the tiny, underappreciated South American country 20 00:02:09,853 --> 00:02:15,445 tucked between Argentina and Brazil. 21 00:02:15,480 --> 00:02:17,999 Only 3 million people live here, 22 00:02:18,034 --> 00:02:24,385 half of them in the capital city of Montevideo. 23 00:02:24,420 --> 00:02:27,043 I love this city. I love this country. 24 00:02:27,077 --> 00:02:29,735 I mean, there's a vibe here that just... 25 00:02:29,770 --> 00:02:32,566 It's unlike any other place on the continent. 26 00:02:32,600 --> 00:02:34,533 It's the opposite of New York in a lot of ways. 27 00:02:34,568 --> 00:02:36,363 Like, people aren't pushy here, you know? 28 00:02:36,397 --> 00:02:37,702 In New York, everybody's, like, sort of 29 00:02:37,709 --> 00:02:39,676 hungry and pushing and moving. 30 00:02:39,711 --> 00:02:41,506 Here it's extremely laid back. 31 00:02:41,540 --> 00:02:43,887 The only competition is soccer. Well- 32 00:02:43,922 --> 00:02:46,511 - That's the only time that you get competitive, 33 00:02:46,545 --> 00:02:48,202 and it gets extreme. 34 00:02:50,135 --> 00:02:52,172 Ignacio Mattos is the chef/owner 35 00:02:52,206 --> 00:02:55,830 of three very successful restaurants in New York City, 36 00:02:55,865 --> 00:02:56,693 Estela, 37 00:02:56,728 --> 00:02:58,488 Cafe Altro Paradiso, 38 00:02:58,523 --> 00:03:00,076 and Flora Bar. 39 00:03:00,110 --> 00:03:02,665 He's been a New Yorker for the past 12 years, 40 00:03:02,699 --> 00:03:05,012 but he comes from here. 41 00:03:05,046 --> 00:03:08,740 Uruguay is a pretty chill and relaxed place 42 00:03:08,774 --> 00:03:12,847 where you just can disconnect from everything. 43 00:03:12,882 --> 00:03:14,746 For me, it's a melting pot. 44 00:03:14,780 --> 00:03:19,060 It's mostly Spanish and Italian immigrant food. 45 00:03:19,095 --> 00:03:21,235 Bar Arocena in Montevideo's 46 00:03:21,270 --> 00:03:23,237 Carrasco neighborhood specializes 47 00:03:23,272 --> 00:03:26,206 in Uruguay's unofficial national sandwich, 48 00:03:26,240 --> 00:03:28,622 the legendary Chivito, 49 00:03:28,656 --> 00:03:29,933 24 hours a day, 50 00:03:29,968 --> 00:03:33,454 seven days a week, since 1923. 51 00:03:33,489 --> 00:03:37,700 A prince, a king, a Gargantua among sandwiches, 52 00:03:37,734 --> 00:03:40,116 this terror-inspiring heap of protein 53 00:03:40,150 --> 00:03:44,741 is built out of steak, ham, bacon, cheese, 54 00:03:44,776 --> 00:03:47,744 hard-boiled egg, mayo, and garnishes. 55 00:03:47,779 --> 00:03:50,402 That's, like, a perfect sandwich. 56 00:03:50,437 --> 00:03:52,404 Now, last time I was here, 57 00:03:52,439 --> 00:03:54,579 I have to admit that after about six days 58 00:03:54,613 --> 00:03:56,719 I would've killed somebody for a vegetable. 59 00:03:56,753 --> 00:03:58,065 I mean, I didn't see a single... 60 00:03:58,099 --> 00:03:59,599 You're gonna feel like that very soon. 61 00:04:02,034 --> 00:04:03,415 ♪ 62 00:04:03,450 --> 00:04:06,004 "Nacho," as he's called by nearly everyone, 63 00:04:06,038 --> 00:04:08,282 started his career at the age of 17 64 00:04:08,317 --> 00:04:10,836 with a master of fire and burning wood, 65 00:04:10,871 --> 00:04:13,287 Argentinean chef Francis Mallmann, 66 00:04:13,322 --> 00:04:17,118 and stayed with him for ten years before moving to the U.S. 67 00:04:17,153 --> 00:04:21,088 Working for Francis Mallmann, I felt at home. 68 00:04:21,122 --> 00:04:23,124 They were just a bunch of outsiders 69 00:04:23,159 --> 00:04:25,506 that they found a place where they belonged, 70 00:04:25,541 --> 00:04:29,959 you know, finding this new culture and, like, new flavors. 71 00:04:29,993 --> 00:04:32,962 ♪ 72 00:04:32,996 --> 00:04:34,998 - How often do you come? - Every two years. 73 00:04:35,033 --> 00:04:36,345 And how long do you spend here? 74 00:04:36,379 --> 00:04:39,209 I usually spend a week. 75 00:04:39,244 --> 00:04:42,834 - Why so little? - We live in New York. 76 00:04:42,868 --> 00:04:44,525 You know what I'm talking about. 77 00:04:44,560 --> 00:04:46,631 - Yeah, I do. - I mean, I love it here, 78 00:04:46,665 --> 00:04:48,805 but it's... you know, you have to commit to it here. 79 00:04:51,221 --> 00:04:52,637 But, you know, you were born here. 80 00:04:52,671 --> 00:04:54,224 You spent your childhood here. 81 00:04:54,259 --> 00:04:55,985 Do you feel the way I feel about this place? 82 00:04:56,019 --> 00:04:59,678 It... it is special, right? I-I think it's special. 83 00:04:59,713 --> 00:05:03,510 But I'm so far detached from it... 84 00:05:03,544 --> 00:05:04,614 Right. 85 00:05:04,649 --> 00:05:06,202 ...but I can go back to that, 86 00:05:06,236 --> 00:05:08,825 and I can just connect. 87 00:05:08,860 --> 00:05:10,827 Well, we'll see. Over the next few days, 88 00:05:10,862 --> 00:05:12,829 we'll see if you can just slide right back in. 89 00:05:12,864 --> 00:05:15,660 Oh, we will. Oh, we will. 90 00:05:15,694 --> 00:05:18,007 There's no other way out. There's no way around it. 91 00:05:18,041 --> 00:05:19,215 You have to. 92 00:05:19,249 --> 00:05:19,749 ♪ 93 00:05:29,743 --> 00:05:30,243 ♪ 94 00:06:21,450 --> 00:06:22,451 ♪ 95 00:06:22,485 --> 00:06:24,418 Things to know about Uruguay. 96 00:06:24,453 --> 00:06:27,732 It's progressive. Weed is legal. 97 00:06:27,766 --> 00:06:30,044 Abortions are easily accessible. 98 00:06:30,079 --> 00:06:32,322 Gay marriage, universal healthcare, 99 00:06:32,357 --> 00:06:35,636 free education including college, 100 00:06:35,671 --> 00:06:38,570 and democracy is no joke here. 101 00:06:38,605 --> 00:06:43,989 96% of eligible Uruguayans voted in the last election. 102 00:06:44,024 --> 00:06:48,269 Compare that to barely 60% here in the U.S. 103 00:06:48,304 --> 00:06:50,271 There's something really special about this place. 104 00:06:50,306 --> 00:06:51,445 You like it? 105 00:06:51,480 --> 00:06:53,102 It's really one of my favorite countries. 106 00:06:53,136 --> 00:06:55,069 It's really... Amazing. 107 00:06:55,104 --> 00:06:57,099 Many Uruguayans could say that it is the worst place of the... 108 00:06:57,106 --> 00:06:58,935 Well, a lot of it... That's weird. 109 00:06:58,970 --> 00:07:00,937 Some of the Uruguayans I've spoken to 110 00:07:00,972 --> 00:07:03,112 are very ambivalent... Yeah. 111 00:07:03,146 --> 00:07:06,149 - About your country. - "I like it, but you know..." 112 00:07:06,184 --> 00:07:07,772 And this I don't really understand. 113 00:07:09,325 --> 00:07:12,639 I meet Carina Novarese, a journalist and editor 114 00:07:12,673 --> 00:07:14,951 with the newspaper "El Observador" 115 00:07:14,986 --> 00:07:18,023 at Escaramuza Cafe and Bookstore. 116 00:07:18,058 --> 00:07:20,923 I think this thing that Uruguayan has 117 00:07:20,957 --> 00:07:22,614 that is kind of pessimistic 118 00:07:22,649 --> 00:07:24,057 and is always... Sometimes complains too much 119 00:07:24,064 --> 00:07:27,308 about what we have comes from before. 120 00:07:27,343 --> 00:07:31,278 1930s, '40s, and after the Second World War, 121 00:07:31,312 --> 00:07:33,798 this was one of the Americas as they used to call us. 122 00:07:33,832 --> 00:07:37,387 There are few reminders of colonial days in Montevideo, 123 00:07:37,422 --> 00:07:40,943 but plenty of evidence that this is the chief city 124 00:07:40,977 --> 00:07:43,842 of a dynamic and progressive country. 125 00:07:43,877 --> 00:07:46,396 It was a pretty cool society. 126 00:07:46,431 --> 00:07:49,123 Healthcare was free, cradle-to-grave. 127 00:07:49,158 --> 00:07:53,196 Uh, education free. Also a very big medium class. 128 00:07:53,231 --> 00:07:54,888 That is very important for Uruguay. 129 00:07:54,922 --> 00:07:56,372 - Right. - That began to change 130 00:07:56,406 --> 00:07:58,339 after the '60s and '70s. 131 00:07:58,374 --> 00:08:00,549 One could say that the prospect of 132 00:08:00,583 --> 00:08:02,516 socialist, or God forbid, communist movements 133 00:08:02,551 --> 00:08:04,484 in Latin America in the '60s 134 00:08:04,518 --> 00:08:07,383 was an area of great concern for the U.S. 135 00:08:07,417 --> 00:08:09,143 and its more authoritarian-leaning 136 00:08:09,178 --> 00:08:11,180 allies in the region. 137 00:08:11,214 --> 00:08:14,252 So the emergence of the radical National Liberation Movement, 138 00:08:14,286 --> 00:08:18,532 known as the Tupamaros, was cause for alarm at the CIA. 139 00:08:18,567 --> 00:08:20,672 A lot of things happened in the '60s 140 00:08:20,707 --> 00:08:22,363 in the context of Latin America. 141 00:08:22,398 --> 00:08:25,021 A lot of students, young people, 142 00:08:25,056 --> 00:08:27,817 were very active in politics. 143 00:08:27,852 --> 00:08:30,199 There weren't the low classes, as you could say. 144 00:08:30,233 --> 00:08:32,056 They weren't the poor people who were doing this. 145 00:08:32,063 --> 00:08:34,058 These are middle-class kids and highly radicalized. 146 00:08:34,065 --> 00:08:35,445 Yeah. At the beginning, I think, 147 00:08:35,480 --> 00:08:38,414 they really thought they could change the system. 148 00:08:38,448 --> 00:08:41,417 With covert and overt support by our country, 149 00:08:41,451 --> 00:08:43,557 a state of emergency was declared, 150 00:08:43,592 --> 00:08:45,041 and a right-wing dictatorship 151 00:08:45,076 --> 00:08:47,250 grabbed hold of the instruments of power 152 00:08:47,285 --> 00:08:49,563 launching a period of repression that 153 00:08:49,598 --> 00:08:53,256 lasted from 1973 until 1985. 154 00:08:53,291 --> 00:08:56,536 Supported and often guided by CIA officers 155 00:08:56,570 --> 00:08:58,468 trained in what we call these days 156 00:08:58,503 --> 00:09:00,919 "enhanced interrogation methods," 157 00:09:00,954 --> 00:09:02,887 some of the most brutal bastards 158 00:09:02,921 --> 00:09:05,234 in the ugliest military juntas on Earth 159 00:09:05,268 --> 00:09:09,410 crushed minds and bodies in cells across Latin America. 160 00:09:09,445 --> 00:09:11,758 What kind of people were finding themselves swept up? 161 00:09:11,792 --> 00:09:13,483 - Especially teachers. - Teachers? 162 00:09:13,518 --> 00:09:16,797 - Professors from university. - Troublesome intellectuals. 163 00:09:16,832 --> 00:09:18,592 Sometimes lawyers or... 164 00:09:18,627 --> 00:09:22,078 Something like 3% to 5% of the entire population, 165 00:09:22,113 --> 00:09:25,254 uh, had gone through the prison system. 166 00:09:25,288 --> 00:09:27,290 I mean, we're not talking about incarceration. 167 00:09:27,325 --> 00:09:28,630 We're talking about... No, no, no, no. 168 00:09:28,637 --> 00:09:29,983 They were tortured and then 169 00:09:30,017 --> 00:09:31,709 kept inside a prison system 170 00:09:31,743 --> 00:09:35,816 that was specifically designed to pretty much destroy them. 171 00:09:35,851 --> 00:09:40,165 In the mid 1980s, the people of Uruguay had had enough. 172 00:09:40,200 --> 00:09:42,478 Massive demonstrations and strikes finally 173 00:09:42,512 --> 00:09:45,136 forced the government to hold elections, 174 00:09:45,170 --> 00:09:47,276 and the military was swept from power. 175 00:09:47,310 --> 00:09:49,968 We're now a democratic country since 1984. 176 00:09:50,003 --> 00:09:52,764 - And how's it going? - I think it's going well. 177 00:09:52,799 --> 00:09:56,009 We have troubles. We are in Latin America. 178 00:09:56,043 --> 00:09:58,943 We'd like to believe that we are a European country. 179 00:09:58,977 --> 00:10:00,358 We are not. 180 00:10:00,392 --> 00:10:02,774 - But are you optimistic? - I am. 181 00:10:02,809 --> 00:10:04,189 I am. 182 00:10:04,224 --> 00:10:08,469 I don't see, like, a huge crisis coming. 183 00:10:08,504 --> 00:10:13,095 But also when they came, you never realized before too. 184 00:10:13,129 --> 00:10:13,629 ♪ 185 00:10:29,594 --> 00:10:31,182 ♪ 186 00:10:31,216 --> 00:10:32,528 When people think of this 187 00:10:32,562 --> 00:10:34,392 often overlooked little country, 188 00:10:34,426 --> 00:10:37,153 if they think of it at all, they tend to think of it 189 00:10:37,188 --> 00:10:40,329 patronizingly as Argentina's little brother. 190 00:10:40,363 --> 00:10:41,641 Not so. 191 00:10:41,675 --> 00:10:43,470 And that attitude pushes people here 192 00:10:43,504 --> 00:10:45,334 to think of themselves in many ways 193 00:10:45,368 --> 00:10:47,785 as existentially in opposition 194 00:10:47,819 --> 00:10:50,063 to their bigger, louder neighbor. 195 00:10:50,097 --> 00:10:51,996 Where were you born? Are you from Montevideo? 196 00:10:52,030 --> 00:10:54,067 No, no, I'm from Argentina. 197 00:10:54,101 --> 00:10:55,689 Is it a big difference culturally, 198 00:10:55,724 --> 00:10:57,346 Argentina and Uruguay? 199 00:10:57,380 --> 00:10:59,797 Here, if you're a little bit courageous, 200 00:10:59,831 --> 00:11:02,144 then you made it, you know? It's a scene here. 201 00:11:02,178 --> 00:11:04,215 Like, to be flashy, it... it's a scene. 202 00:11:04,249 --> 00:11:07,321 To be successful, it's not something that is one scene. 203 00:11:07,356 --> 00:11:09,013 You got to do it quietly. 204 00:11:09,047 --> 00:11:11,153 There's a saying, "[speaking Spanish]." 205 00:11:11,187 --> 00:11:13,258 It means "Stay in the small thing," you know? 206 00:11:13,293 --> 00:11:15,157 Right.. 207 00:11:15,191 --> 00:11:16,710 It's something that defines... Right. 208 00:11:16,745 --> 00:11:19,437 Uruguay in a way. 209 00:11:19,471 --> 00:11:23,234 Lucia Soria is the chef and owner of Jacinto 210 00:11:23,268 --> 00:11:25,443 in Montevideo's old city. 211 00:11:25,477 --> 00:11:28,722 She worked with Nacho back in the Mallmann years. 212 00:11:28,757 --> 00:11:30,620 What was it like for a woman 213 00:11:30,655 --> 00:11:35,556 working in the restaurant industry in the early 2000s? 214 00:11:35,591 --> 00:11:39,043 I was very lucky because Francis, he had, like, 215 00:11:39,077 --> 00:11:42,115 this army of women... no? Around him. 216 00:11:42,149 --> 00:11:44,393 You were surrounded by women from the beginning? 217 00:11:44,427 --> 00:11:45,774 Yes. Yes. 218 00:11:45,808 --> 00:11:48,362 Is that an unusual situation in Uruguay do you think? 219 00:11:48,397 --> 00:11:50,882 - I mean... - I'm not asking you, man. 220 00:11:50,917 --> 00:11:52,290 You're... you're a man. I'm asking... 221 00:11:52,297 --> 00:11:55,749 Oh, I sound like a woman. 222 00:11:55,784 --> 00:11:59,373 The food here takes its cues from Spain and Italy. 223 00:11:59,408 --> 00:12:02,445 Homemade gnocchi with mushrooms and pumpkin. 224 00:12:02,480 --> 00:12:06,380 Prawns with avocado, apple, and wasabi. 225 00:12:06,415 --> 00:12:10,281 Beef tartare with quail egg. 226 00:12:10,315 --> 00:12:13,284 So when you were first planning the menu for this place 227 00:12:13,318 --> 00:12:14,941 and thinking about the concept... 228 00:12:14,975 --> 00:12:16,666 - Yeah. - What inspired you? 229 00:12:16,701 --> 00:12:18,876 I wanted to have, like, a small restaurant, 230 00:12:18,910 --> 00:12:21,430 but that you could have a very nice everything, 231 00:12:21,464 --> 00:12:24,295 but small, you know? You want fish? 232 00:12:24,329 --> 00:12:27,470 Very nice and a little vegetables, you know? 233 00:12:27,505 --> 00:12:29,334 Right. This is the most vegetables 234 00:12:29,369 --> 00:12:31,889 I've ever seen in this country all in one time. 235 00:12:31,923 --> 00:12:33,407 We're all driven people 236 00:12:33,442 --> 00:12:35,271 at this table. Yeah. 237 00:12:35,306 --> 00:12:36,714 You know, you went all the way to New York. 238 00:12:36,721 --> 00:12:37,991 You have how many restaurants in New York now? 239 00:12:37,998 --> 00:12:38,992 Just the one? Two? Three. 240 00:12:38,999 --> 00:12:40,414 - Three. - Three. 241 00:12:40,449 --> 00:12:41,684 - Nice number, man. - You're not lazy. 242 00:12:41,691 --> 00:12:42,858 - No. - It's just a little dump. 243 00:12:42,865 --> 00:12:44,108 You could have seven. 244 00:12:44,142 --> 00:12:45,626 I'm gonna guess you're like this too. 245 00:12:45,661 --> 00:12:48,181 We're all driven people, so where is your happy place? 246 00:12:48,215 --> 00:12:50,942 Well, I got married on Saturday, and... 247 00:12:50,977 --> 00:12:53,117 - This past Saturday? - Yes. 248 00:12:53,151 --> 00:12:57,673 That was the day that I felt happy all day. 249 00:12:57,707 --> 00:13:02,022 But it's good because you cannot have happiness all the time, no? 250 00:13:02,057 --> 00:13:03,292 Happiness is a thing that... No, no. 251 00:13:03,299 --> 00:13:04,818 Happiness all the time is fascism. 252 00:13:04,853 --> 00:13:06,468 - No. It doesn't exist, man. - It's oppressive. 253 00:13:06,475 --> 00:13:08,304 It's oppressive. You're not doing anything. 254 00:13:08,339 --> 00:13:11,514 But if you have a few moments a week, 255 00:13:11,549 --> 00:13:14,448 will you just go, "Oh, shit. I'm happy"? 256 00:13:14,483 --> 00:13:16,140 - Yeah. - It sneaks up on you. 257 00:13:19,177 --> 00:13:19,677 ♪ 258 00:13:24,079 --> 00:13:26,184 Which is more satisfying, 259 00:13:26,219 --> 00:13:27,979 eating a good meal... Yeah. 260 00:13:28,014 --> 00:13:29,360 Or cooking a good meal 261 00:13:29,394 --> 00:13:32,846 for somebody you really care about? 262 00:13:32,881 --> 00:13:34,399 I think eating. 263 00:13:34,434 --> 00:13:36,885 I... I actually enjoy both, 264 00:13:36,919 --> 00:13:38,300 but I don't want to hear anything. 265 00:13:38,334 --> 00:13:39,680 I don't want you to talk to me. 266 00:13:39,715 --> 00:13:41,192 I just want to see your expression, like, 267 00:13:41,199 --> 00:13:42,683 seeing you're connecting 268 00:13:42,718 --> 00:13:44,996 without having to have a dialogue about it. 269 00:13:45,031 --> 00:13:46,653 I'm not sure. 270 00:13:46,687 --> 00:13:48,689 Cooking for customers, that's a different experience. 271 00:13:48,724 --> 00:13:52,486 Making an omelet for someone... Mm. 272 00:13:52,521 --> 00:13:56,007 The morning after. Just stay in. 273 00:13:56,042 --> 00:13:58,872 Yeah. It's really the best. 274 00:13:58,907 --> 00:14:01,185 The guy that I marry, 275 00:14:01,219 --> 00:14:03,601 I was with him for the first time. 276 00:14:03,635 --> 00:14:06,776 And I cooked three eggs, two asparagus, 277 00:14:06,811 --> 00:14:10,573 and five cherry tomatoes with my heart. 278 00:14:10,608 --> 00:14:14,198 And we had this small but very beautiful 279 00:14:14,232 --> 00:14:17,373 breakfast, brunch, lunch. 280 00:14:17,408 --> 00:14:19,444 It's the best thing ever. You're gonna make me cry. 281 00:14:19,479 --> 00:14:21,239 - You know? - You're gonna make me cry. 282 00:14:21,274 --> 00:14:24,035 There's some basic urge that made 283 00:14:24,070 --> 00:14:26,244 all of us at this table want to cook. 284 00:14:26,279 --> 00:14:28,626 - Yeah. - There is a desire to 285 00:14:28,660 --> 00:14:30,904 say something you can't say, to nurture. 286 00:14:30,939 --> 00:14:34,218 So basic, and it's so beautiful that it's so basic. 287 00:14:34,252 --> 00:14:34,752 ♪ 288 00:14:45,746 --> 00:14:46,246 ♪ 289 00:15:06,940 --> 00:15:10,392 Hablan por la Espalda got together in 1996 290 00:15:10,426 --> 00:15:12,428 when they were all just teenagers. 291 00:15:12,463 --> 00:15:13,843 They were considered pioneers 292 00:15:13,878 --> 00:15:16,467 of the DIY hardcore movement here. 293 00:15:16,501 --> 00:15:18,434 Two decades on, they're still one of 294 00:15:18,469 --> 00:15:20,402 the country's most popular bands. 295 00:15:20,436 --> 00:15:23,681 And they recently opened for Iggy Pop. 296 00:15:23,715 --> 00:15:27,478 ♪ 297 00:15:36,694 --> 00:15:38,938 Right, so what does everybody do here? What do you do? 298 00:15:38,972 --> 00:15:40,801 - I'm psychologist. - You're a psychologist? 299 00:15:40,836 --> 00:15:43,666 This will come in useful later. 300 00:15:43,701 --> 00:15:46,462 Musician and a... I'm a writer too. 301 00:15:46,497 --> 00:15:49,293 - Writer and, uh, restaurateur. - Yeah. 302 00:15:49,327 --> 00:15:51,295 I work in post production. 303 00:15:51,329 --> 00:15:52,952 - Post production? - Yeah. 304 00:15:52,986 --> 00:15:55,713 That could be... actually this is a very useful table. 305 00:15:58,509 --> 00:16:00,994 Fermin, the lead singer and songwriter, 306 00:16:01,029 --> 00:16:02,168 grew up with Nacho. 307 00:16:02,202 --> 00:16:04,998 Tuca and Valentin play guitar. 308 00:16:05,033 --> 00:16:07,138 What do people like to listen to in Uruguay? 309 00:16:07,173 --> 00:16:08,726 It's a very musical country, I think. 310 00:16:08,760 --> 00:16:10,866 You know Candombe? Yeah. 311 00:16:10,900 --> 00:16:14,007 Okay, that's our, like, our native rhythm. 312 00:16:14,042 --> 00:16:17,493 And the folklore from here, it used to be called... 313 00:16:17,528 --> 00:16:18,832 "protest music..." Protest music. 314 00:16:18,839 --> 00:16:22,153 So it was, like, late '60s, early '70s, 315 00:16:22,188 --> 00:16:23,879 was the most popular music. 316 00:16:23,913 --> 00:16:26,295 But then came the dictatorship. Right, so no more of that. 317 00:16:26,330 --> 00:16:28,504 And everybody had to leave the country. 318 00:16:28,539 --> 00:16:29,919 Yeah, dictatorships are usually, 319 00:16:29,954 --> 00:16:32,370 like, usually bad for music. Yeah. 320 00:16:32,405 --> 00:16:34,055 They're good for the underground music scene, 321 00:16:34,062 --> 00:16:35,056 but not so good for the... 322 00:16:35,063 --> 00:16:36,167 Not for the popular music. 323 00:16:39,550 --> 00:16:41,034 Do you want to smoke? Yeah, sure. 324 00:16:41,069 --> 00:16:43,347 - I brought some. - Excellent. Good idea. 325 00:16:43,381 --> 00:16:45,901 I... I am permitted to smoke weed on camera now. 326 00:16:45,935 --> 00:16:49,422 - Yeah. You are in Uruguay. - I am observing local custom. 327 00:16:49,456 --> 00:16:52,563 ♪ 328 00:16:52,597 --> 00:16:54,599 Proceed to smoke weed. 329 00:16:54,634 --> 00:16:56,774 It's cool. Everybody's doing it. 330 00:16:56,808 --> 00:16:58,672 Somebody call the elfin Jeff Sessions. 331 00:16:58,707 --> 00:17:00,053 He'll shit himself. 332 00:17:00,088 --> 00:17:01,537 How long has weed been legal here? 333 00:17:01,572 --> 00:17:02,780 - One year. - A year? 334 00:17:02,814 --> 00:17:04,575 - One year, yeah. - A year? Awesome. 335 00:17:04,609 --> 00:17:07,060 But here, like, you could smoke in the street... 336 00:17:07,095 --> 00:17:08,199 - Always. - For always. 337 00:17:08,234 --> 00:17:09,545 Do you have dispensaries? 338 00:17:09,580 --> 00:17:10,815 Do you have stores that you can go through? 339 00:17:10,822 --> 00:17:12,238 Yes, that's the problem here now. 340 00:17:12,272 --> 00:17:13,749 The pharmacies cannot sell because the... 341 00:17:13,756 --> 00:17:15,551 - The international banks... - Right. 342 00:17:15,586 --> 00:17:17,519 Don't want to accept drug money. 343 00:17:17,553 --> 00:17:20,936 So if I were to open a marijuana hydroponic farm... 344 00:17:20,970 --> 00:17:22,386 You can have your club. 345 00:17:22,420 --> 00:17:24,181 All right, when... When we starting this? 346 00:17:24,215 --> 00:17:25,561 I don't know, man. 347 00:17:25,596 --> 00:17:27,287 Let me smoke another joint. 348 00:17:27,322 --> 00:17:28,288 There, you got it. 349 00:17:31,464 --> 00:17:31,964 ♪ 350 00:17:41,439 --> 00:17:41,939 ♪ 351 00:17:51,449 --> 00:17:52,933 What to do next? 352 00:17:52,968 --> 00:17:56,799 Pizza and beers, yo, at Bar Las Flores. 353 00:17:56,834 --> 00:17:59,457 So, uh, here's an interesting question. 354 00:17:59,492 --> 00:18:03,427 What is the national pathology of Uruguay? 355 00:18:03,461 --> 00:18:05,981 - It is the envy from... - Envy? 356 00:18:06,015 --> 00:18:08,949 Yes, Uruguayan very envy. 357 00:18:08,984 --> 00:18:11,573 You always envy, like... 358 00:18:11,607 --> 00:18:15,404 I cannot envy a very big guitarist, guitar player. 359 00:18:15,439 --> 00:18:17,993 I cannot envy Paco de Lucia. 360 00:18:18,027 --> 00:18:20,651 I will envy this kind of guitarist 361 00:18:20,685 --> 00:18:22,929 that plays almost like me, just a little better. 362 00:18:22,963 --> 00:18:24,965 - Just a little better. - Just a little better. 363 00:18:28,383 --> 00:18:29,453 Yeah. 364 00:18:29,487 --> 00:18:31,972 The envy is between brothers. 365 00:18:32,007 --> 00:18:34,147 Right. Is this a destructive envy? 366 00:18:34,182 --> 00:18:37,702 Do Uruguayans want other Uruguayans to succeed? 367 00:18:37,737 --> 00:18:39,670 - As long as they're far enough. - Yeah. 368 00:18:39,704 --> 00:18:42,811 Not my neighbor. Not in my neighborhood. 369 00:18:42,845 --> 00:18:44,675 This is an honest man. I really like you. 370 00:18:44,709 --> 00:18:46,953 I love this Uruguayan. He's in Mexico. He's great. 371 00:18:46,987 --> 00:18:48,989 I feel like I'm talking to myself. 372 00:18:53,028 --> 00:18:54,512 ♪ 373 00:18:54,547 --> 00:18:57,550 The pizza here is a bizarro stoner hybrid 374 00:18:57,584 --> 00:18:59,828 topped with thin chickpea flatbread. 375 00:18:59,862 --> 00:19:02,210 Why? I don't know. 376 00:19:02,244 --> 00:19:03,659 Makes sense though. 377 00:19:03,694 --> 00:19:05,627 The one on top of there is a fainá. 378 00:19:05,661 --> 00:19:09,182 You should put fainá on top of the pizza. 379 00:19:09,217 --> 00:19:11,011 Really? 380 00:19:11,046 --> 00:19:11,546 ♪ 381 00:19:17,742 --> 00:19:20,055 We call this pizza no cheese now. 382 00:19:20,089 --> 00:19:23,196 - Yeah. - He's a vegan, so he's... 383 00:19:23,231 --> 00:19:24,197 Really? 384 00:19:26,095 --> 00:19:27,511 I don't know if I can work with you. 385 00:19:27,545 --> 00:19:28,719 22 years, I'm vegan. 386 00:19:28,753 --> 00:19:30,410 - Vegan? - Yes, in Uruguay. 387 00:19:30,445 --> 00:19:32,585 Wow, that is a revolutionary position. 388 00:19:32,619 --> 00:19:34,552 They used to be vegan too. 389 00:19:34,587 --> 00:19:36,209 - Yeah. - You are such an asshole. 390 00:19:37,624 --> 00:19:39,212 He used to be very vegan militant. 391 00:19:39,247 --> 00:19:40,593 So what did you eat? 392 00:19:40,627 --> 00:19:43,112 - Pizza. - Yeah, but no cheese? 393 00:19:43,147 --> 00:19:44,838 - Yeah. - Yeah. 394 00:19:44,873 --> 00:19:48,704 And this is on health grounds, or you hate to herd animals? 395 00:19:48,739 --> 00:19:50,430 I don't know. 396 00:19:50,465 --> 00:19:52,432 Okay, if you had to kill Fred Durst or a cow? 397 00:19:52,467 --> 00:19:53,571 - Oh... - Or a cow. 398 00:19:53,606 --> 00:19:54,848 Fred. Fred. 399 00:19:56,574 --> 00:19:59,059 Look, this one. Iggy Pop or a cow? 400 00:19:59,094 --> 00:20:00,233 I like Iggy Pop, 401 00:20:00,268 --> 00:20:02,373 but I will have to kill him. 402 00:20:02,408 --> 00:20:04,341 - No? - No! 403 00:20:04,375 --> 00:20:06,964 No. 404 00:20:06,998 --> 00:20:08,586 Oh, no. 405 00:20:08,621 --> 00:20:11,348 - I just saw him live. - You're a monster. 406 00:20:11,382 --> 00:20:13,695 You are not my therapist. 407 00:20:17,181 --> 00:20:17,681 ♪ 408 00:20:30,746 --> 00:20:33,473 ♪ 409 00:21:09,302 --> 00:21:09,802 ♪ 410 00:22:07,912 --> 00:22:09,638 All right, meat. I want meat. 411 00:22:09,673 --> 00:22:10,701 And this is the place. You want meat? 412 00:22:10,708 --> 00:22:12,469 Yes. Yes, I do. 413 00:22:12,503 --> 00:22:15,472 This must be the place. 414 00:22:15,506 --> 00:22:18,371 His friends say Marcello Quiben looks German, 415 00:22:18,406 --> 00:22:20,891 hence the name of his small neighborhood restaurant 416 00:22:20,925 --> 00:22:23,514 "Parisa el Aleman." 417 00:22:23,549 --> 00:22:26,862 The beating heart of the place is, of course, the Parisa, 418 00:22:26,897 --> 00:22:29,486 a grill where dripping meats of many kinds 419 00:22:29,520 --> 00:22:32,385 are slowly cooked over glowing wood coals. 420 00:22:32,420 --> 00:22:34,698 Why is this an Uruguayan thing? Why here? 421 00:22:34,732 --> 00:22:37,010 I mean, I know you're a cattle country. 422 00:22:37,045 --> 00:22:39,254 I think the first settlers, when they came in, 423 00:22:39,288 --> 00:22:42,050 they realized there was nothing else but raising cattle. 424 00:22:42,084 --> 00:22:43,845 - Right. - And they let it grow wild. 425 00:22:43,879 --> 00:22:45,916 - Uh-huh. - And they over-populated. 426 00:22:45,950 --> 00:22:49,575 And, you know, gauchos, they would roam the land, 427 00:22:49,609 --> 00:22:54,027 and they would kill it on the spot and actually cook it... 428 00:22:54,062 --> 00:22:55,574 - Right there. - ...right there on the spot. 429 00:22:55,581 --> 00:22:58,549 And actually, like, a lot of times with the skin on. 430 00:22:58,584 --> 00:23:01,552 Really? 431 00:23:01,587 --> 00:23:04,417 Morcilla, or blood sausage. 432 00:23:04,452 --> 00:23:07,593 Oh, now this is what it's all about for me now. 433 00:23:07,627 --> 00:23:09,422 Every great culture does this. 434 00:23:09,457 --> 00:23:11,148 It's moist. I love it. 435 00:23:11,182 --> 00:23:14,082 Right when you kill it, it's pretty amazing. 436 00:23:14,116 --> 00:23:16,705 Look, when they kill me, that's the way I want to go. 437 00:23:16,740 --> 00:23:17,837 You know, keep the heart beating, 438 00:23:17,844 --> 00:23:19,225 pump the blood into the bucket, 439 00:23:19,259 --> 00:23:22,573 let the village women come and make sausage. 440 00:23:22,608 --> 00:23:23,747 Then chorizo. 441 00:23:23,781 --> 00:23:25,990 Then steak... gotta have that. 442 00:23:26,025 --> 00:23:29,131 In this case, rib eye. 443 00:23:29,166 --> 00:23:31,444 You should spend more time in this country. 444 00:23:31,479 --> 00:23:34,585 I don't know. I've been gone for 17, 18 years. 445 00:23:34,620 --> 00:23:35,897 Yeah. 446 00:23:35,931 --> 00:23:37,554 It feels kind of like the same. 447 00:23:37,588 --> 00:23:39,279 That's the magic about this place. 448 00:23:39,314 --> 00:23:40,964 It's like, it feels like traveling into the past. 449 00:23:40,971 --> 00:23:43,111 I don't see Starbucks on every corner. 450 00:23:43,145 --> 00:23:46,079 I don't see McDonald's. It's sort of unspoiled, right? 451 00:23:46,114 --> 00:23:48,143 This is pretty awesome. I mean, am I missing something? 452 00:23:48,150 --> 00:23:50,463 Is there something that really sucks about this country 453 00:23:50,498 --> 00:23:52,189 that I don't... I've not seen? 454 00:23:52,223 --> 00:23:55,503 I think this... it's a society that's, like, very patriarchal. 455 00:23:55,537 --> 00:23:57,366 Ah. 456 00:23:57,401 --> 00:24:01,509 And it has a lot of colonial tradition that overshadows... 457 00:24:01,543 --> 00:24:04,201 Yeah, but compared to what? Compared to who? 458 00:24:04,235 --> 00:24:06,514 Who's doing really great in that department? 459 00:24:06,548 --> 00:24:07,825 Denmark? 460 00:24:07,860 --> 00:24:10,172 It's, like, the happiest country on Earth. 461 00:24:10,207 --> 00:24:12,381 I hate happy. 462 00:24:12,416 --> 00:24:14,342 I mean, you want to be surrounded by happy people? 463 00:24:14,349 --> 00:24:18,629 Do you notice how melancholic this place is and nostalgic? 464 00:24:18,664 --> 00:24:20,148 It's like you walk on the street, 465 00:24:20,182 --> 00:24:22,219 and you just, like, feel it. Yeah. 466 00:24:22,253 --> 00:24:24,773 It's, like, the melancholy, it's... 467 00:24:24,808 --> 00:24:26,154 I like that. 468 00:24:29,364 --> 00:24:29,864 ♪ 469 00:24:39,685 --> 00:24:41,410 Nacho Mattos grew up 470 00:24:41,445 --> 00:24:43,654 about 45 minutes north of the capital 471 00:24:43,689 --> 00:24:47,175 in Santa Lucia, a small town of 16,000 people 472 00:24:47,209 --> 00:24:51,731 surrounded by farmland and cattle and sheep ranches. 473 00:24:51,766 --> 00:24:56,391 I think as a child, it was an incredible place to grow up. 474 00:24:56,425 --> 00:24:59,325 You know, I like escaping and going fishing on the river, 475 00:24:59,359 --> 00:25:01,879 and that's pretty safe, you know? 476 00:25:01,914 --> 00:25:04,986 Like, the doors were always open. 477 00:25:05,020 --> 00:25:08,507 But I didn't feel like I fit in at all. 478 00:25:10,301 --> 00:25:15,548 And I needed to find a place and a way to express myself. 479 00:25:15,583 --> 00:25:17,343 We were raised as very liberal, 480 00:25:17,377 --> 00:25:20,933 but at the same time, it's conservative. 481 00:25:20,967 --> 00:25:24,281 As a teenager, it was kind of like everything the same. 482 00:25:24,315 --> 00:25:26,697 It's just, you didn't feel that interesting. 483 00:25:26,732 --> 00:25:29,873 And yeah, it wasn't fun as a teenager. 484 00:25:29,907 --> 00:25:32,461 ♪ 485 00:25:32,496 --> 00:25:35,430 His family own a dairy farm just outside of town. 486 00:25:35,464 --> 00:25:37,915 Nacho's mother, Gloria, runs the farm 487 00:25:37,950 --> 00:25:40,297 along with his brother, Leandro. 488 00:25:40,331 --> 00:25:42,713 Nacho's sister, Rocio, lives in Montevideo 489 00:25:42,748 --> 00:25:46,717 but comes home often for family meals like this. 490 00:25:46,752 --> 00:25:48,609 What's the name of this town? You grew up here? This house? 491 00:25:48,616 --> 00:25:50,403 - Santa Lucia. Yeah. - You grew up in this house? 492 00:25:50,410 --> 00:25:52,412 Yes. For the most part, yeah. 493 00:25:52,447 --> 00:25:54,932 It's beautiful. Why would you ever leave this place? 494 00:25:54,967 --> 00:25:56,934 It's fantastic. He never liked this place. 495 00:25:56,969 --> 00:25:58,142 - No? - No, never. 496 00:25:58,177 --> 00:26:00,075 I felt like he had, like, 497 00:26:00,110 --> 00:26:04,079 anger of being on such a small town. 498 00:26:04,114 --> 00:26:06,461 He always had, like, been on the front. 499 00:26:06,495 --> 00:26:09,878 I couldn't fit in here, so I get out of the house, 500 00:26:09,913 --> 00:26:11,431 and I actually call her 501 00:26:11,466 --> 00:26:13,116 and say that I wanted to go to culinary school. 502 00:26:13,123 --> 00:26:14,711 "This is what I want to do. 503 00:26:14,745 --> 00:26:16,298 I need support, and I pay you back." 504 00:26:16,333 --> 00:26:20,924 And one year goes, and I drop it to work for Francis. 505 00:26:20,958 --> 00:26:23,236 I... I love that you went from being a vegan to 506 00:26:23,271 --> 00:26:24,783 working with Francis Mallmann... Yeah, yeah. 507 00:26:24,790 --> 00:26:27,482 ...who's, like, you know, the Satan of vegans. 508 00:26:27,516 --> 00:26:29,588 What was at the dinner table when you grew up? 509 00:26:29,622 --> 00:26:32,452 Mom wasn't that... it wasn't that skillful in the kitchen. 510 00:26:32,487 --> 00:26:34,765 - Oh, that's cold, man. - I know, but it is true. 511 00:26:34,800 --> 00:26:36,146 She was the one in charge. 512 00:26:36,180 --> 00:26:37,941 So you grew up eating a lot of Italian food? 513 00:26:37,975 --> 00:26:40,357 Yes. 514 00:26:40,391 --> 00:26:43,602 Nacho's grandmother, Ercilia, was born here, 515 00:26:43,636 --> 00:26:46,294 the child of Italian immigrants. 516 00:26:46,328 --> 00:26:48,123 I grew up around my grandmother, 517 00:26:48,158 --> 00:26:50,954 like, constantly cooking. 518 00:26:50,988 --> 00:26:53,784 And that was her form of affection 519 00:26:53,819 --> 00:26:56,097 and a way of, like, 520 00:26:56,131 --> 00:26:58,651 showing that she cared and she love you. 521 00:27:04,692 --> 00:27:05,192 ♪ 522 00:27:12,078 --> 00:27:14,460 Her tucco, her version of Sunday gravy, 523 00:27:14,494 --> 00:27:17,187 is made from porchetta, cured pork ribs, 524 00:27:17,221 --> 00:27:20,224 and hunks of beef simmered for hours. 525 00:27:30,683 --> 00:27:32,305 There's also matambre, 526 00:27:32,340 --> 00:27:34,894 a local specialty of rolled stuffed beef 527 00:27:34,929 --> 00:27:38,691 served alongside Russian salad. 528 00:27:38,726 --> 00:27:40,348 So when did you start cooking? 529 00:27:40,382 --> 00:27:43,972 I think... I think it was, like, my mom get divorced, 530 00:27:44,007 --> 00:27:46,009 and I realized that she needed help, 531 00:27:46,043 --> 00:27:49,840 and I start cooking as a way of support. 532 00:27:49,875 --> 00:27:52,532 - Mm-hmm. - Then I decide to become vegan, 533 00:27:52,567 --> 00:27:54,707 and she was like... She threw the towel. 534 00:27:54,742 --> 00:27:57,848 And I was like... and and she stopped cooking for us. 535 00:27:57,883 --> 00:28:00,989 So I start taking the initiative, and I start cooking. 536 00:28:01,024 --> 00:28:02,266 Well, you had to because 537 00:28:02,301 --> 00:28:04,544 you were the only vegan in all of Uruguay. 538 00:28:09,480 --> 00:28:09,980 ♪ 539 00:28:13,761 --> 00:28:15,383 How often does he come back? 540 00:28:15,417 --> 00:28:17,109 - Two years? - It's been two years? 541 00:28:17,143 --> 00:28:19,214 - Mm-hmm. - I like it. I like it. 542 00:28:19,249 --> 00:28:22,873 I like it in a different way. I like it far away. 543 00:28:24,426 --> 00:28:28,741 If he would find the thing to do here, 544 00:28:28,776 --> 00:28:30,294 like, he would be happy, 545 00:28:30,329 --> 00:28:34,057 but the things he wants to do are not here. 546 00:28:34,091 --> 00:28:36,059 ♪ 547 00:28:38,268 --> 00:28:39,925 Si? Yeah, it's good. 548 00:28:39,959 --> 00:28:42,721 - It's so comforting. - Yeah. 549 00:28:42,755 --> 00:28:44,136 This makes me happy. 550 00:28:44,170 --> 00:28:44,670 ♪ 551 00:29:06,641 --> 00:29:09,092 ♪ 552 00:29:18,170 --> 00:29:21,345 ♪ 553 00:29:41,193 --> 00:29:43,609 Fishing from kayaks is... is amazing. 554 00:29:43,643 --> 00:29:45,369 First of all, it's easy, really easy. 555 00:29:45,404 --> 00:29:47,544 You don't need any motor or nothing. 556 00:29:47,578 --> 00:29:50,098 It's just bring the kayak to the shore 557 00:29:50,133 --> 00:29:51,651 and paddle in. 558 00:29:51,686 --> 00:29:52,186 ♪ 559 00:30:44,394 --> 00:30:47,846 A couple of hours east of Montevideo, the coast, 560 00:30:47,880 --> 00:30:50,227 and the seaside towns of high-gloss, 561 00:30:50,262 --> 00:30:52,402 big money, Punta del Este, 562 00:30:52,436 --> 00:30:55,336 and the slightly more laid back Jose Ignacio, 563 00:30:55,370 --> 00:30:57,165 once a sleepy fishing village, 564 00:30:57,200 --> 00:30:59,374 and now a Hamptonian vacation hotspot 565 00:30:59,409 --> 00:31:02,584 for the money class from all over the world. 566 00:31:02,619 --> 00:31:03,119 ♪ 567 00:31:09,108 --> 00:31:13,216 Cantina del Vigia, thankfully, is open in the off season. 568 00:31:13,250 --> 00:31:17,289 Diego Robino is a film producer and occasional fisherman, 569 00:31:17,323 --> 00:31:19,878 and Clo Dimet is a chef and owner of 570 00:31:19,912 --> 00:31:22,604 a posada in Jose Ignacio. 571 00:31:22,639 --> 00:31:24,089 So what town is this? Where am I? 572 00:31:24,123 --> 00:31:25,884 - This is Maldonado. - Maldonado. 573 00:31:25,918 --> 00:31:29,818 And this is, like, the capital of all these fancy beach towns, 574 00:31:29,853 --> 00:31:31,717 but this is where the working class people live. 575 00:31:31,751 --> 00:31:34,409 It's the city where most people live all the year. 576 00:31:34,444 --> 00:31:37,550 Cantina's chef/owner is Federico Desseno. 577 00:31:37,585 --> 00:31:40,588 Like Nacho, another Francis Mallmann veteran. 578 00:31:40,622 --> 00:31:43,936 Diego brought some fish he caught today. 579 00:31:43,971 --> 00:31:47,906 We got empanadas with corn and shredded slow-cooked beef. 580 00:31:47,940 --> 00:31:49,459 Ooh, nice. Love it. 581 00:31:49,493 --> 00:31:51,081 Oh, I'm liking this meal already. 582 00:31:51,116 --> 00:31:53,912 There's goat cheese and spinach croquettes. 583 00:31:55,465 --> 00:31:56,915 - Mmm. - Nice. 584 00:31:56,949 --> 00:31:58,951 - Look at the catch. - Oh, look at that. 585 00:31:58,986 --> 00:32:01,678 - This is the catch of the day. - Beautiful. 586 00:32:01,712 --> 00:32:03,576 ♪ 587 00:32:03,611 --> 00:32:07,960 So today Diego went on one of the roughest day 588 00:32:07,995 --> 00:32:11,101 in the ocean to get fish somehow. 589 00:32:11,136 --> 00:32:12,654 We're talking about, like, hard work. 590 00:32:12,689 --> 00:32:14,967 I mean, the kitchen is hard, but like, fishermen... 591 00:32:15,002 --> 00:32:17,625 No, the fact that you are alone in the middle of the ocean 592 00:32:17,659 --> 00:32:20,766 with all this destruction around you... 593 00:32:20,800 --> 00:32:23,286 That's why we play soccer. 594 00:32:26,841 --> 00:32:29,602 There are two wood-fired ovens producing 595 00:32:29,637 --> 00:32:34,435 this thing, provoleta, a beautiful slab of cheese 596 00:32:34,469 --> 00:32:37,645 which puffs up and inflates in the heat. 597 00:32:37,679 --> 00:32:40,303 Wow. 598 00:32:40,337 --> 00:32:41,649 Whoa, and this is the cheese? 599 00:32:41,683 --> 00:32:43,271 The history... This is the cheese. 600 00:32:43,306 --> 00:32:45,653 Normally if you're doing a grill with friends, 601 00:32:45,687 --> 00:32:50,037 this is the only thing you will get that is not meat. 602 00:32:50,071 --> 00:32:52,901 Whole-roasted suckling wild boar. 603 00:32:52,936 --> 00:32:53,436 ♪ 604 00:32:57,423 --> 00:32:59,529 Wow, that's spectacular. 605 00:32:59,563 --> 00:33:01,462 And whole-roasted fish. 606 00:33:01,496 --> 00:33:01,996 ♪ 607 00:33:06,053 --> 00:33:07,019 - Whoa. - Fish. 608 00:33:07,054 --> 00:33:08,365 - Fish. - Wow. 609 00:33:13,543 --> 00:33:15,510 And milanesa. 610 00:33:15,545 --> 00:33:17,823 Here in Uruguay, not veal as in Italy, 611 00:33:17,857 --> 00:33:20,929 but a pounded, breaded, and fried hunk of beef 612 00:33:20,964 --> 00:33:26,142 covered in tomato sauce, ham, and melted mozzarella cheese. 613 00:33:26,176 --> 00:33:27,350 Oh, more cheese. All right. 614 00:33:27,384 --> 00:33:28,696 Milanesa. 615 00:33:28,730 --> 00:33:30,422 This is milanesa napolitana. 616 00:33:30,456 --> 00:33:31,871 - Right. - And it's a typical dish. 617 00:33:31,906 --> 00:33:34,357 And the people here eat a lot of milanesa. 618 00:33:34,391 --> 00:33:37,049 - We grew up with this. - All the people. 619 00:33:37,084 --> 00:33:38,499 Holy moley. 620 00:33:38,533 --> 00:33:40,708 Yeah, you know this is good cold, too, right? 621 00:33:40,742 --> 00:33:42,054 First thing in the morning? 622 00:33:42,089 --> 00:33:43,883 Cold? It's great. 623 00:33:43,918 --> 00:33:45,885 See, you have an instinctive sense in this country 624 00:33:45,920 --> 00:33:48,026 of what people need. 625 00:33:48,060 --> 00:33:48,560 ♪ 626 00:34:01,798 --> 00:34:02,298 ♪ 627 00:34:17,676 --> 00:34:20,368 How much you loving Uruguay? 628 00:34:20,403 --> 00:34:21,914 You still loving it, or you change your mind? 629 00:34:21,921 --> 00:34:24,407 I love it. It's beautiful, so laid back. 630 00:34:24,441 --> 00:34:25,615 You haven't changed that... 631 00:34:25,649 --> 00:34:27,203 Your mind a little bit? No. 632 00:34:27,237 --> 00:34:29,239 Feel tense about anything, I smoke a little weed. 633 00:34:29,274 --> 00:34:33,416 I feel better. 634 00:34:33,450 --> 00:34:37,282 Yeah? I'm getting hungry actually. 635 00:34:37,316 --> 00:34:38,835 Yeah, what's on the menu tonight? 636 00:34:38,869 --> 00:34:40,285 Got some quinoa? Maybe some quinoa. 637 00:34:40,319 --> 00:34:41,589 I don't think it exists, quinoa, here. 638 00:34:41,596 --> 00:34:42,970 You might see it in some health store. 639 00:34:42,977 --> 00:34:44,427 Yeah. I don't even know what it is. 640 00:34:44,461 --> 00:34:45,773 I don't know that I've ever had it. 641 00:34:45,807 --> 00:34:47,671 It's like, I used to really like kale, 642 00:34:47,706 --> 00:34:49,183 I used to love kale, but now I don't want to eat it because... 643 00:34:49,190 --> 00:34:50,778 You'd become pretty annoying. 644 00:34:50,812 --> 00:34:53,263 They're making, like, smoothies out of the shit. 645 00:34:53,298 --> 00:34:54,989 Are we doing steak? 646 00:34:55,023 --> 00:34:56,956 If we can do steak, that's what you eat... 647 00:34:56,991 --> 00:34:59,821 That's... that's what we have. 648 00:34:59,856 --> 00:35:01,029 Yeah. 649 00:35:01,064 --> 00:35:03,135 Yeah, I was thinking just off the top of my head. 650 00:35:03,170 --> 00:35:05,344 "What do I want tonight? Uh... 651 00:35:05,379 --> 00:35:07,415 How about meat? Yeah, yeah, meat." 652 00:35:11,488 --> 00:35:14,526 I know where to go. I've actually never been. 653 00:35:14,560 --> 00:35:16,493 This friend told me about it. 654 00:35:16,528 --> 00:35:19,945 But the funny thing, it's a drive-thru. 655 00:35:19,979 --> 00:35:21,153 Drive-thru steak? 656 00:35:25,330 --> 00:35:27,642 I know. Like, I'm... surprised as you are. 657 00:35:27,677 --> 00:35:29,782 Cocktails? Do we get cocktails in the drive-thru? 658 00:35:29,817 --> 00:35:32,820 I doubt it, but I'm sure we can get some beer. 659 00:35:32,854 --> 00:35:35,063 - All right, steak it is. - Let's do it. 660 00:35:35,098 --> 00:35:35,598 ♪ 661 00:35:39,999 --> 00:35:43,486 Diego wants you to know that his other car is a Ferrari. 662 00:35:43,520 --> 00:35:47,006 ♪ 663 00:35:47,041 --> 00:35:49,043 Hey, what's up, man? 664 00:36:08,890 --> 00:36:10,720 Hey, so far it's working. 665 00:36:10,754 --> 00:36:13,343 I think they use this in the desert. 666 00:36:13,378 --> 00:36:17,175 Yeah, they're pretty common here, right, like, on the beach? 667 00:36:17,209 --> 00:36:18,693 Not good for winter. 668 00:36:18,728 --> 00:36:21,248 No. 669 00:36:21,282 --> 00:36:21,782 ♪ 670 00:36:40,059 --> 00:36:40,559 ♪ 671 00:36:46,583 --> 00:36:50,104 Las Nenas for drive-thru steak. 672 00:37:20,099 --> 00:37:21,446 A beer or... 673 00:37:21,480 --> 00:37:23,275 - Cerveza. - Yeah, beer. 674 00:37:25,312 --> 00:37:27,106 Okay, gracias. 675 00:37:30,627 --> 00:37:31,127 ♪ 676 00:37:44,123 --> 00:37:47,817 Gracias. 677 00:37:47,851 --> 00:37:50,578 Do we have, uh, knives and forks somewhere? 678 00:37:50,613 --> 00:37:51,752 Inside of each box. 679 00:37:51,786 --> 00:37:53,132 They're there. Oh, okay. 680 00:37:53,167 --> 00:37:54,202 You need potatoes. 681 00:37:54,237 --> 00:37:55,721 Yeah, I got potatoes in there. 682 00:37:59,553 --> 00:38:03,350 Yeah, this could be a challenge. 683 00:38:03,384 --> 00:38:05,144 Hey, the meat's good. 684 00:38:05,179 --> 00:38:07,174 You should bring your own cutlery, you know, next time. 685 00:38:07,181 --> 00:38:08,251 Yeah. 686 00:38:23,231 --> 00:38:23,731 ♪ 687 00:38:37,349 --> 00:38:40,352 La Caracola is a party space on a strip of sand 688 00:38:40,387 --> 00:38:43,493 about ten minutes outside of Jose Ignacio. 689 00:38:43,528 --> 00:38:46,703 The ocean on one side, a lagoon on the other. 690 00:38:46,738 --> 00:38:48,360 During the high season, 691 00:38:48,395 --> 00:38:51,225 it's a regular hangout for over-the-top asados. 692 00:38:51,259 --> 00:38:55,263 Today Nacho is supervising a meal for a bunch of friends. 693 00:39:01,235 --> 00:39:03,686 Hey, guys. 694 00:39:13,903 --> 00:39:15,939 What's going on in here? 695 00:39:15,974 --> 00:39:18,252 Hey. How's it going? 696 00:39:18,286 --> 00:39:20,116 - Very good. - So this is Martin. 697 00:39:20,150 --> 00:39:22,014 - Hey, how are you? - How are you? 698 00:39:22,049 --> 00:39:24,845 Martin Pittaluga is the co-owner of La Huella, 699 00:39:24,879 --> 00:39:26,364 a restaurant in town that also serves 700 00:39:26,398 --> 00:39:28,227 as the mother ship for this place. 701 00:39:28,262 --> 00:39:30,195 - Right? - Man, what a spot. 702 00:39:30,229 --> 00:39:32,121 - I mean, you look at this... - The weather is good? 703 00:39:32,128 --> 00:39:33,898 The weather is difficult, but it's beautiful. 704 00:39:33,923 --> 00:39:35,442 You'll stay the whole day. 705 00:39:35,476 --> 00:39:38,099 You know, you arrive at 2:00, and you leave at 9:00. 706 00:39:38,134 --> 00:39:40,412 Nice. So, jefe, what's cooking? 707 00:39:40,447 --> 00:39:42,414 ♪ 708 00:39:42,449 --> 00:39:45,037 So it's one of the spots in the fire oven. 709 00:39:45,072 --> 00:39:47,419 Wow. Look at that, a whole fish baked in salt? 710 00:39:47,454 --> 00:39:48,420 Yes. 711 00:39:48,455 --> 00:39:48,955 ♪ 712 00:39:59,811 --> 00:40:01,329 Some whole rib eye slabs. 713 00:40:01,364 --> 00:40:02,917 Rib eyes. Wow. 714 00:40:02,952 --> 00:40:04,712 Some suckling pig. It's not some snack. 715 00:40:04,747 --> 00:40:07,128 That's no snack, man. That's a meal right there. Wow. 716 00:40:07,163 --> 00:40:08,751 You want to help in the kitchen, or... 717 00:40:08,785 --> 00:40:10,856 - The carving, yeah, man. - All right. 718 00:40:18,519 --> 00:40:20,176 Everybody's here. 719 00:40:20,210 --> 00:40:25,112 Fermin, the guys from the band, Lucia, Federico, Diego, 720 00:40:25,146 --> 00:40:27,977 and it's time to eat. 721 00:40:28,011 --> 00:40:31,290 Oh, yeah. Come on, it's perfect, right? 722 00:40:31,325 --> 00:40:32,602 Right. 723 00:40:32,637 --> 00:40:34,466 So how long has this place been here? 724 00:40:34,501 --> 00:40:36,019 Like, about 12 years. 725 00:40:36,054 --> 00:40:38,159 It started as, like, a shack or a house or a... 726 00:40:38,194 --> 00:40:41,300 It used to be a little house on the beach with a bar. 727 00:40:41,335 --> 00:40:43,371 You're not allowed to build here anymore, so 728 00:40:43,406 --> 00:40:47,375 I bought all this land, and that's the only thing we can do. 729 00:40:50,827 --> 00:40:51,327 ♪ 730 00:40:56,212 --> 00:40:57,972 - Man, the food is delicious. - Yeah. 731 00:40:58,007 --> 00:41:01,631 Look at us out here on a sandbar, middle of nowhere, 732 00:41:01,666 --> 00:41:03,184 eating like gods. 733 00:41:03,219 --> 00:41:06,705 But this is what I love about Uruguay, no? 734 00:41:06,740 --> 00:41:08,673 Then you suddenly... You take a drive, 735 00:41:08,707 --> 00:41:10,226 even, like, one hour and a half... 736 00:41:10,260 --> 00:41:11,641 And you're someplace different. 737 00:41:11,676 --> 00:41:13,298 And you're in a different world. 738 00:41:13,332 --> 00:41:14,672 Good to see. I mean, this is really exciting here. 739 00:41:14,679 --> 00:41:16,025 I love it here. 740 00:41:16,059 --> 00:41:17,613 Every day he asks, "Are you sure?" 741 00:41:17,647 --> 00:41:19,373 Every day. Every day. Hold on. Hold on. 742 00:41:19,407 --> 00:41:21,237 - Do you really love it, Tony? - Every day. 743 00:41:21,271 --> 00:41:22,852 - Do you Really? Really? - Shut up, I asked you once. 744 00:41:22,859 --> 00:41:25,344 He says this... He says this every day. 745 00:41:25,379 --> 00:41:26,967 Every day. 746 00:41:27,001 --> 00:41:27,968 ♪ 747 00:41:59,724 --> 00:42:00,224 ♪ 55303

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