All language subtitles for Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown S10E08 Southern Italy (1080p x265 10bit Joy)

Southern Italy,
the heel of the boot.

Remote, vast open spaces.

The red earth here
has a magnetic pull.

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Raw, alternately charming
and savage.

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Grazie.

Now, in the annals of food,

this is like a divisive dish.

Basically anything with ricci,
also known as uni.

We call it sea urchin roe.

This is truly one of
the greatest things on Earth.

♪

God damn.

Despite its uncanny beauty,

southern Italy's Puglia
and Basilicata regions

are some of the least populated,

least visited,

least known parts
of the country...

A mix of sea, hills, valleys,
and rich earth.

The food here is Italian
but completely its own.

A little garlic, pepperoncino,
parsley.

Sea urchin, some kind of fish,
Fumane.

Pasta.
That's it.

Oh, incredible.

Never been to this part
of Italy before.

A lot of blue here.

Light browns and ochres
and white.

I don't know; you just look
at this place.

It demands a big space.

As I walk around,
I'm always humming

these Ennio Morricone scores:

"For a Few Dollars More,"
"Once Upon a Time in the West."

♪

Oh, this is so good.

Makes you want
to start smoking again.

Oh, grazie.

Oh, God, that's good.

Jesus.

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Feudal, ungovernable,
it was believed once

that civilization
and Christianity

would never reach this far south

into the hill of Italy's boot.

♪

A lawless land
filled with folklore

and tales of spirits
and possession,

a blood soup
of Christianity and Paganism.

I had an extremely handsome
brother,

and I was a little...
I was like an elf,

so I kind of didn't get
the attention from the mother

that my brother did.

I had very big lips as a child,
and she always used to say

that I should have
plastic surgery.

But when you see my daughter,
Sofia,

she's got my lips.

- Yeah.
- But they look good on her.

Up in the mountains, you find
tiny medieval-era villages

like Bernalda, seat of
the paternal family roots

of this man,
Francis Ford Coppola...

Welcome.
Benvenuto.

Thank you.

One of the greatest filmmakers
of all time.

You have deep roots here.

My grandfather always told
us stories of Bernalda,

Bernalda Bella.

And oddly enough,
he never had gone back

once he left
as an American immigrant.

But it became mythical to me.

The story is that the family
originally came from Lecce,

and someone got
the sister pregnant,

and they killed her.

And then they became briganti,

so they were one step
ahead of the law.

And then they settled down
and became laborers

in the olive fields.

And that's really the origins
of the Coppola family.

Because the south was
so oppressed by the north,

it stayed the same.

They haven't had 1,000 years
of cheap, "gyp the tourist."

And you come, and you can walk
out in the street,

and you're in
a real Italian town

where the people don't know
anything about...

They'll invite you
to the house for dinner here

quite innocently.

How long that will last,
I don't know.

♪

What we're looking at here

is food I thought
you'd get a kick out of,

lampascioni,

or what my family call...

It's the bulb of a flower,
the hyacinth.

Wow.

You score it, and then
you put it in a deep fryer,

and that turns it into a flower.

Beautiful.

Oh, wow.

This is incredible.

So you may have some history
with this house.

I mean, it was...

Your grandfather
was boning the help here?

It was...

You know... heard that story.

My grandfather was...
They called him zumpa balcone.

He was girl crazy.

And he would go up on the roof

and go down to where
the maid was, Palmetta,

and conduct this affair.

And so when I found this place
years later,

there was, in fact, a roof
leading to a housemaid's.

And I fantasize that perhaps
that was where it happened.

Dove... where's...
We have to have more food.

Bring the secondo.

This is a dish we called
the coldane.

How do you call it?

Cotenna.

This is basically...
My father said...

- Pigskin.
- This is the football.

Wait a minute.

You had this
at your dinner table

as, like, a young man, as a kid?

- Yeah, a little kid.
- Wow.

- I hated it.
- Of course.

But now I don't.

Oh, so good.

Mmm.

We're dining
at Palazzo Margherita,

not the ancestral home
of generations of Coppolas

but might well have been
the one-time manor house

of those who lorded over them

while they worked in the fields.

During Mussolini time,
every town had a podestà,

the official
of the fascist party.

Right.

And this family was the podestà.

The ladies here were
so, you know, snobby.

We are low-class Italians.

They were
more high-class Italians.

It took years and a lot of money

converting the once-grand
but decaying mansion

into a boutique hotel.

You know, when you bought
this place,

is there a sense of vengeance?

I... you know, by then,

"The Godfather" had come out
40 years ago.

No, no, I mean, look.
It's not about the film.

It's about...
a historical correction.

There's a saying.

You know what
Italian Alzheimer's is?

Do you know what it is?

You forget everything
but the grudge.

This is the only
internal garden in Basilicata.

I don't think
any of the normal people

had ever been permitted
to visit it.

Right.

So I was happy
that normal people

were gonna be here.

"The Godfather" was a weird
experience in my life,

because it was so much
more successful

than I could have ever
anticipated

so that I became well-known
around the world

in ways that was
almost embarrassing.

And so when I came here,

they made me
an honorary citizen,

and they had the little
schoolchildren out in a parade.

And if I think about it,
as a new kid in a school,

my greatest fear
was embarrassment.

"Oh, here's Francis.
He's a new student."

"Oh, Francis is a girl's name."

I was embarrassed
in front of everyone,

and I was a total outsider.

And then when I became...

On the other side
of "The Godfather,"

when I became so well-known,
I was also an outsider.

So I've always been an outsider.

What's in there?

- Some lamb chops and...
- Oh, lamb chops, okay.

Some lamb head.

Oh, the capuzzelle is in there?

It's all there.

So you're getting
a whole lamb's head?

Oh, look at this.
Here we go.

Come on out.
Oh, that's very good.

Is this for me?

- Give me your plate.
- Oh, yeah. Mmm.

Oh, this is fantastic.

Come here, little one.

Hello, sweetie pie.
Hello.

This is my friend.

No, we went out last night,
and it was so great.

We went to the local circus.

The tigers and giraffe
and water oxen.

Did you go to the circus?

Was it good?

Cool.
What was your favorite part?

Um, when the giant
fake gorilla came.

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The smell, the...

The smell of the port,
some dead fish.

It's not fresh fish.
It's dead fish.

I don't hate that smell either.

No, no.

Today, we fish.

For once, I'm confident
of success

with Dino and Franco and their
trusty wooden gozzo,

as they call these boats.

And for good luck,
I have Asia Argento along,

who, in addition to directing
and acting in films

for, like, the last 30 years,

has spent a hell of a lot
of time doing this.

You have never done this?
I've done this.

I've stood there and watched
somebody else do it.

Scorpionfish.
Oh, nice.

A little one.

Okay, Anthony, take over.

It's... yeah, your forearms.

It's good for the hangover.
No, forearm.

It's very good for the hangover.

Oh!

Beautiful.

You're making her talk
like a little hand puppet too.

Yeah, "Hey, you had
too much to drink last night."

Don't.

There's no word for "hangover"?

We have to invent a word
for "hangover."

It's incredibly optimistic
and unusual.

I know. There's none,
because it's shameful.

- Oh.
- Ohhhhh!

Hey!

I want to see
what's inside his guts.

Maybe a half-digested Speedo.

Ah, look at all this goodness.

You know, you're enjoying
that a little too much.

Any notions I had

of spending an idyllic
afternoon by the shore

are quickly dashed
when I discover

it's a religious holiday,

which apparently means
Italians grease up,

strap on
their tiniest bathing suits,

and hit the beach en masse.

♪

Our intrepid fisher folk
and some friends collaborate

with Asia and me on a
picnic/barbecue/beach party.

Okay, and the two lobsters?

Ha, look at all that roe.

Look at that.

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And the sauce...

See, all those little fish
paid off.

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Pop it in already.
My God.

No waiting.
Good, I'm in. I'm in.

They're hungry.
They're starving.

Mmm, superb.

It's good.

"Joe."

The lobster looks great.
Mama mia.

- This is incredible.
- These are incredible.

- They're so sweet and...
- Yeah.

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Oh, look at this.

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This is
a uniquely Italian thing.

- With the Speedos.
- The banana hammock.

- The what?
- Banana hammock.

In America, people don't want
to get a tan like this.

They don't want to reveal
that much about themselves.

It takes the mystery out of...

- So they wear the...
- Big boxers.

Keep them guessing
until it's too late.

He say it's like
an elephant trunk.

It can grow incredibly.

Oh, he's a grower, not a shower.

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The heel of Italy's boot
has been referred to

as "the land of remorse,"

la terra del rimorso,

which also translates
to "land of the rebitten."

Here, in this harsh landscape,
lives the tarantula

and echoes of some deep, dark
pre-Christian paganship,

like tarantism.

A dance, a ritual, an exorcism,

an expression
of unspeakable desires.

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What is this?

Humble local wine.

It's rustica.

- Rustico.
- Rustico.

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We are at the humble masseria.

Now, what is a masseria?

A masseria is a place
that was the bigger house

where the family would stay

and then the farmers,
the animals.

- It's a plantation.
- It's a plantation.

And this would be the big house.

♪

It's like at your place
in America, Hookers.

No, it's Hooters.

- Hooters.
- Hooters.

Local Apulian superstition
has it,

if a tarantula bit someone,

most often a woman
while she worked the fields,

it could lead to some
pretty direct and disturbing

demonstrations
of carnality and desire,

the victim tortured by
something supernatural, toxic,

for which
there was only one cure.

La tarantella is a kind
of music that was played

for those women
who are possessed,

bit by the tarantula.

All of a sudden,
a woman will be on the floor,

speaking in tongues and...

Oh, the family
doesn't know what to do.

There was only one remedy:

calling the musicians in.

They will have this kind of
ecstatic and orgasmic moment

where they were released

from this ultimately sexual
possession.

♪

Over the generations,
the Catholic Church absorbed

ancient pagan traditions
like tarantism.

And the ritualistic, frenzied
music and dance

associated with it

evolved into what we know today

as pizzica and tarantella.

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While elsewhere in Europe,

belief in afflictions
like tarantism died off,

down here, old-school rituals
are still practiced.

Victims of the tarantula's bite

experience swelling, pain,
spasms,

and, when exposed
to music, hysteria.

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Wow.

There's a sense of vastness
that I'm not used to.

So does this remind you
of your cowboy movies?

A little bit.

Yes, the lone gunman
out for vengeance

would be riding
in a long shot over there.

The cave city of Matera

was occupied for a span
of 9,000 years,

predating the days
of Christianity,

the Roman and even Greek
empires.

So this was the shame of Italy,
this place.

It doesn't look shameful to me.

Back in the day, right,
this was where...

Where people lived in caves
and they had no god.

After centuries of neglect,

Matera's cave communities
became, for post-war Italy,

a symbol of national
dysfunction, backwardness,

and horrifying
living conditions.

I mean, this is an area
that was known for briganti,

outlaws, bandits.

This is was always where,
you know, the losers were sent.

Into the '50s and '60s,

this was considered
an embarrassment and a shame.

People lived...

Yeah, because they had
no water, yes.

Ten kids, shitting in a bucket,

up to 50% mortality rate
among children.

Malaria was endemic,

with children begging
in the street

for quinine to prevent it.

They were burning fire
to keep the animals away

as the children were dying.

In the 1950s, the population
was forcibly relocated,

leaving Matera's
cave structures abandoned.

And the way they lived,
you know,

they were still pagan.

And of course now it's...

Because of Mel Gibson
and the Christ movies,

because it looks like Jerusalem
at the time of Christ.

And it's strange that, you know,

in a place that had no god,

they shot all the Christ movies.

Jesus incorporated...
Brought the money,

and all of a sudden,
this became hip,

and people wanted to live
in the caves

and make bed-and-breakfasts
and expensive...

It's expensive to live
in the caves now.

But this is the story

of every beautiful place,
kind of.

It's like, "Let's move
everybody out,"

and then in come the hipsters
and the postcards

and the Airbnbs.

"Thank God
nobody's living here."

Because people like you.

You're right.
You're right.

You make it, "Oh,
this looks so wonderful."

I want to go see."

And then they bring
the money in, and...

Oh, my God,
I am selling Airbnbs right now,

right now as we speak.

They put the cross up there.

So up there, you go
to see Christ.

And take your selfie.

But it's beautiful.
It's still beautiful.

No, I've never seen
a place like this,

not even in Jerusalem.

Until the tourist arrives
and they make it...

- Right.
- Disgusting.

I mean, they make it...
Different.

Yes.

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Bella.
Bellissima.

Bellissima, bellissima.

Eccellente.

My grandma died
when I was a kid,

and those of you
who know me know

I'm always on the lookout
for another one...

Somebody's, anybody's grandma
to cook for me

and make me feel like
everything's gonna be okay.

Buona sera.

Our friend Angelo
introduces us to Nonna Maria.

What's the difference

between ricotta
and cacioricotta?

Cacio is caciocavallo.

It's a bit smoky.

Oh, buonissimo.

Si, si.

She's saying she has a priest
to come in every night

to have dinner with her.

I originally had in mind,
oh, I don't know,

some polite
dinner conversation...

Maybe changing times,
history of the region.

First of all, I guess...

But Maria had other things
on her mind.

So I want to know,
what are the differences

in character,
in the heart and character

of the Pugliese...

- And the rest of Italy?
- And the rest of Italy?

She's sorry... I mean,
he's sorry that...

Last night, he made...

In the end, sometimes
all you can do

is get out of the way
and enjoy the ride.

Scusi mi, signore.

Why... is it St. Peter
or St. Paul or both?

Why are they the...

Oh, superb.

Brava, Maria.

All right.

No, no, don't, don't.

I know
what you're tempted to do.

That's the good pope.

When I was a child,
my mother took me...

When I was...
No, he was the good one.

Which one is this?

This is not Papa Nazi.

That's a good one.

The current one?
The one before?

Right?
Perfect.

Right, whatever.

♪ Ave

♪ Maria

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♪ Ave

♪ Maria

♪

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You know why
the streets are empty?

Why?

Because everyone is
celebrating St. Peter, yes.

- Oh, the festa.
- The festa di santi.

They throw a party

and celebrate the death
of two saints.

Double P, Paolo and Pietro.

♪

The festival of local
patron saints Peter and Paul

is equal parts
religious celebration

and a big party.

But I'm not going.

All right.

You don't want to go see
the fiesta with the saints?

No.

I do not.

- I'm named after a saint.
- Ah.

But I have...

Which Anthony?
Which Antonio?

One who loves animals.

- No.
- Cooked animals.

But with Antonio,
there's Antonio who loves kids.

I like kids.

Not cooked.

So you have been reading up
on St. Peter.

I've been reading up
on St. Paul.

You know, two people
who were brutally...

One was crucified upside down,
Peter.

My guy had his head lopped off.

Oh, he was beheaded.

- He was beheaded.
- For certain.

St. Paul wasn't, like,
a nice guy.

No, he was terrible.

He was in charge

of persecuting heretics
and Christians.

Yeah.

Anyways, he's on his way
to Damascus

to torture the [...]
out of some more Christians,

and he experiences
a blinding light.

He goes blind.

And what does the voice say?

"I am Jesus, your lord.

"You're torturing Christians.

Like, you shall stop."

Yeah, "Get on board.
Get on the Jesus train."

And then a few days later,
the scales fell from his eyes.

Yes, but the scales
is like prosciutto.

Like, he had prosciutto
in front of his eyes,

and it fell down.

And then he was like, "Oh."
He was...

- You're making me hungry.
- It was a miracle.

Oh, wow.

As important

as religion, folklore,
and history are to me,

you know what's more important?

Dinner,

a last grab
at some local specialties.

"In the past, the town was
considered a sacred site

"protected by St. Paul,
who, according to local belief,

"made the land
and its inhabitants immune

"to the bites
of poisonous animals,

especially tarantula."

That's why.
Here you go.

A few final moments of happiness

far from the madness.

But it's going good now.

I mean, look at it.
It's beautiful.

The streets
are incredibly clean.

I mean, I've never seen...

Like, when you walk around
the streets, they shine.

There's more money.
There's more tourism.

But what is this hiding?

Because for me,
when I see perfect beauty,

I always wonder what's behind.

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