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I need A French coach.
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♪ I took a walk through
this beautiful world ♪
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♪ Felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪
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♪ Found something good
in this beautiful world ♪
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♪ I felt the rain getting colder ♪
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♪ Sha la la la la ♪
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♪ Sha la la la la la ♪
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♪ Sha la la la la ♪
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♪ Sha la la la la la la ♪ ♪
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If you've been to France,
chances are you haven't
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been here.
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France's second largest
city, the oldest city in France.
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It sits right by the Mediterranean.
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The food is famously good.
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Yet, it's a victim of bad
reputation, bad history.
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Marseille.
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As it turns out, exactly
the kind of place I like.
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But this is a buddy picture, isn't it?
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Eric Ripert is the chef of the
three-star La Bernadin in - New York.
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The Chevalier of France.
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I think that means he's some
kind of knight or something.
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And my friend.
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This causes him some problems.
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He, I like to remind him,
has a reputation to protect.
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I do not.
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- Welcome to Marseille.
- Yeah.
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You've never been here?
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Never.
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How is this even possible?
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You grew up how far from here?
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Like, 50 miles. 100 miles.
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You grew up 100 miles from here?
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What prevented you from
coming to this clearly beautiful city?
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Because it's clearly beautiful.
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It's a fantastic city.
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I mean, it's beautiful. I agree with you.
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But it has the reputation
of being a dangerous city.
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You live in New York.
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I should point out that
every single Frenchmen,
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when I said, you know,
I'm shooting in France.
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And they say, oh really,
where? And I say, Marseille.
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Their face drops immediately, like, oh.
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Why's that? Because they think it's ugly?
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Do you know what they say?
They say this is not France.
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With a "Z" like that?
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This is not France.
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Well, I'm looking forward to the week.
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Yeah.
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This is a low-impact show.
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What is a low-impact show?
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It means I'm not, you
know, paddling upriver.
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It means I get a flush
toilet, eating well constantly.
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You like luxury.
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I do, look, I do.
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I like a fluffy hotel towel.
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I like a bidet.
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Look, I like warm jets of
water squirting up my ass.
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I mean, who doesn't?
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I could retire here.
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I could retire here, too.
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You see, that's sort of the
measure of a place - for me is like,
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If you start thinking thoughts like that.
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Like, that must be nice. I could live here.
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Just me and my watercolors, you know?
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Puttering.
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When you retire, are you going to putter?
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What's putter?
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Dicking around.
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Basically, you wake up
and maybe you paint a little.
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I could paint.
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You know, well, OK. Do
you how to make a sweater.
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Who do you think I am like? Who am I?
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I would like to go fishing.
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You know, I've never
catch anything in my life.
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Do you actually fish?
Do you know how to fish?
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Do you ever fish?
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I don't know how to fish.
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I'll show you how.
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All you need is a car battery
and a couple of cables.
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Trust me, you get all the fish you want.
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Well, that's...
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- They come right up.
- We have to be gentle.
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There's other ways. How do
you say dynamite - in French?
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- Dynamite.
- Dynamite.
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See, I do speak French.
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You can tell. You know it's coming, right?
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You can sense it.
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Oh, no. Another fishing scene.
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This is our vessel here on the right.
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Eric is one of only a
handful of old-style fishermen
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who work the sea the old-fashioned way.
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Do you see yourself fishing?
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- No.
- It's stressful to me.
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Right. I always think
I'm going to catch, like,
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my testicles or my ear with the hook.
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You know, I have a fear of fish hooks.
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You guys catching dente?
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Yes. He said it's the best
fish of the Mediterranean.
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I have no idea what he's talking about.
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Well, hopefully, we'll see.
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Well, hopefully, we'll taste it.
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Well, he's supposed to
deliver it to Le Petit Nice.
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Yeah, that's right.
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Eric works exclusively for this man,
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Gerald Passedat.
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The extremely demanding
chef/owner of Le Petit Nice.
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Marseille's only three
Michelin-star restaurant.
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I'm ready for my fisherman, actually.
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It won't be long.
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It depends on what the
Mediterranean Sea will
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offer to us.
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00:06:02,487 --> 00:06:04,507
So it's a long line, Tony.
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How long is the line?
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Well, he say he has about, today 300 hooks.
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So he basically lays it out at night?
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- Yeah.
- Comes back and pick it up.
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In Marseille is only five guys,
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five fishermen will rock it like him.
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You know he has 300 hooks.
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See he's right in time.
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This must be the 12th fishing scene.
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No, I must have done 20
fishing scenes in my life.
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And I think I had one
good day out of all of them.
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Other than that, it's been
one humiliating goat rodeo
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after another.
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00:07:13,308 --> 00:07:16,412
Ordinarily, our typical fishing
scene actually would be,
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it would be rougher than this.
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So we'd be pitching back and forth.
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And I'd be hanging on to the contents
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of my stomach,
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only by realizing that
they feel even sicker
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because they have to
look through the view finder.
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So they're like...
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00:07:29,532 --> 00:07:33,555
so it's basically you're playing this
sort of race against time - kind of a game.
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00:07:33,581 --> 00:07:35,139
It's like who's going to puke first.
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- -Yeah. -But it's always the camera
- dudes though.
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- Is it?
- No. Generally, it's our
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producer.
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00:08:00,939 --> 00:08:05,295
He said bad days, I had
some bad days but this one...
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- This is the worst.
- This is the worst.
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Well, there it is.
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Another extraordinarily
successful fishing scene - in the can.
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Time to reap the rewards
awaiting us back on dry land.
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You'll tell me if there's any
oiled up amazons behind me.
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- Behind you?
- They're frolicking naked.
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Yes. Right now they're
kind of like mature Amazons.
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It will happen.
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Here's the chef.
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- Anthony Bourdain.
- Nice to meet you.
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00:08:33,930 --> 00:08:35,199
Nice to meet you. An honor, sir.
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00:08:35,223 --> 00:08:38,726
Would you mind to have the bouillabaisse?
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Is it a good idea? Or...
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No, no, no. It's a very good idea.
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There's reinvented, deconstructed
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and then usually there's the thing, itself.
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Passedat's take on bouillabaisse,
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without a doubt Marseille's
most famous dish
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is spread out over four courses.
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First, shellfish carpaccio
of raw mussels and clams.
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00:09:05,462 --> 00:09:06,880
This is super, huh?
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00:09:08,382 --> 00:09:10,360
They slice the muscles raw.
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That's crazy. Wow.
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I decided to make this
bouillabaisse, like a version
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when I was a child.
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On those rocks, when I was with
my knife, opening the mussels,
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eating the mussels.
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In my cuisine, there's no cream, no butter.
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It's not traditional at all.
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It's just based on the fish.
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This is my way of thinking,
my cuisine here. For myself.
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Slipper lobster, weaver,
angler, and red gurnard
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lightly seared then a touch in the oven.
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Oh, whoa.
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This is just incredibly beautiful.
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It's so delicate and at the same time
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flavorful and powerful.
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This is insanely good.
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A broth so intense it requires
over ten kilos of rock crabs
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and various bony tasty little fishes,
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00:10:03,811 --> 00:10:06,791
to make just one kilo of
brown, gloriously brown,
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magical liquid.
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Dorade and dentelle,
steamed over seaweed water,
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saffron potatoes, and then
finally comes that magical
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brown broth.
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- Oh.
- Wow.
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00:10:23,582 --> 00:10:25,208
Ahh.
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That's a good one, huh?
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00:10:32,466 --> 00:10:33,484
Oh, man.
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This is unbelievable.
190
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The entire fish you're eating. Yeah.
191
00:10:39,389 --> 00:10:42,994
And just when my brain threatens
to short circuit - with pleasure.
192
00:10:43,020 --> 00:10:45,645
Descending as if from heaven itself.
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00:10:48,273 --> 00:10:49,917
Oh, cheese.
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00:10:49,941 --> 00:10:52,402
Oh, god, the cheese.
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00:10:54,946 --> 00:10:57,300
I got to tell you, I don't care
how about naked breasts
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are on that beach right now,
because that's much more - exciting.
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00:11:03,455 --> 00:11:06,183
All right. Look at it. It's beautiful.
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00:11:06,207 --> 00:11:08,144
- Food taste good?
- Yes.
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00:11:08,168 --> 00:11:11,004
Oh, look at that. Oh, man.
200
00:11:13,590 --> 00:11:15,610
Oh, I love the cheese.
201
00:11:15,634 --> 00:11:19,137
Cheese like this. That is just incredible.
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00:11:20,305 --> 00:11:21,640
Oh, yes.
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00:11:35,445 --> 00:11:36,340
That is exceptional.
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00:11:36,364 --> 00:11:37,632
Life is good.
205
00:11:37,656 --> 00:11:38,781
Life is good.
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00:11:50,335 --> 00:11:51,979
Marseille was once the hub.
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00:11:52,003 --> 00:11:55,691
The rough and tumble principle
Port for France's colony - such as
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00:11:55,717 --> 00:11:58,944
Tunisia, Morocco, and Algeria.
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00:11:58,968 --> 00:12:01,510
As a result the sights and
smells of Africa permeate
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00:12:01,534 --> 00:12:04,074
the city.
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00:12:04,098 --> 00:12:07,203
There's been attempts to
disuade me from Marseille,
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00:12:07,227 --> 00:12:10,331
you don't want to go
there, and yet I come here.
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00:12:10,355 --> 00:12:13,083
Correct me if I'm wrong,
it is a beautiful city.
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00:12:13,107 --> 00:12:14,816
It smells good. You smell the different
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00:12:14,840 --> 00:12:16,546
pastries.
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00:12:16,570 --> 00:12:19,423
The Tajin, we have leabess.
217
00:12:19,447 --> 00:12:21,133
And it's an extraordinary looking city
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00:12:21,157 --> 00:12:23,219
and the people are
really interesting looking.
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00:12:23,243 --> 00:12:25,304
I must say, you are in
the center of the world
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00:12:25,328 --> 00:12:27,515
because the world is in Marseille.
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00:12:27,539 --> 00:12:31,185
We are connected to the Mediterranean sea.
222
00:12:31,209 --> 00:12:34,188
So it's really different
from the north of France.
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00:12:34,212 --> 00:12:38,317
I feel closer to a guy from Oracle,
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00:12:38,341 --> 00:12:43,971
than a guy from maybe
Germany or... it's different.
225
00:12:47,517 --> 00:12:49,371
Cedric Fabre is a
Marseille crime writer who
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00:12:49,395 --> 00:12:51,247
spent decades
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00:12:51,271 --> 00:12:52,665
deciphering the dense layers
228
00:12:52,689 --> 00:12:56,001
of crime and corruption,
pasties, and sunshine.
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00:12:56,025 --> 00:12:58,795
It's a perfect town for writers of Mark.
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00:12:58,819 --> 00:13:02,258
Plenty of atmospherics and lurid history.
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00:13:02,282 --> 00:13:05,429
Why do you think it's such a fertile ground
232
00:13:05,453 --> 00:13:08,598
to set a crime novel?
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00:13:08,622 --> 00:13:12,852
For me it's more interesting because
you write about the - place you live in.
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00:13:12,878 --> 00:13:15,312
I walk in the street, I
have an idea, et cetera.
235
00:13:15,336 --> 00:13:20,317
I couldn't write about past
things like James Leroy does.
236
00:13:20,341 --> 00:13:25,322
Because I have to know the
real part of the city, the people.
237
00:13:25,346 --> 00:13:28,783
Here it's a really interesting
stew of characters.
238
00:13:28,807 --> 00:13:31,246
In Marseille, there is a very poor area
239
00:13:31,270 --> 00:13:33,706
and a very rich area.
240
00:13:33,730 --> 00:13:36,147
The difference between these two areas
241
00:13:36,171 --> 00:13:38,586
is the worst in France.
242
00:13:38,610 --> 00:13:40,860
So that makes an interesting
city because when we write
243
00:13:40,884 --> 00:13:43,132
crime novel,
244
00:13:43,156 --> 00:13:46,928
we write both the differences
between the poor people, the - rich people,
245
00:13:46,954 --> 00:13:51,307
Et cetera, so that's interesting.
246
00:13:51,331 --> 00:13:53,476
Le Femina is an Algerian restaurant
247
00:13:53,500 --> 00:13:55,645
with some of the better cous cous in town.
248
00:13:55,669 --> 00:13:57,396
And since it's a very filling dish
249
00:13:57,420 --> 00:14:02,276
and I only got one crack at it,
I go for the royale. What else?
250
00:14:02,300 --> 00:14:06,821
Vegetables, chickpeas,
merguez sausage, chicken,
251
00:14:06,845 --> 00:14:09,617
chunks of lamb, and meatballs.
252
00:14:09,641 --> 00:14:11,826
What people say,
253
00:14:11,850 --> 00:14:13,496
is that everybody sees themselves
254
00:14:13,520 --> 00:14:18,000
as Marseillaise first and French second,
255
00:14:18,024 --> 00:14:19,460
regardless of your
background. Is that true?
256
00:14:19,484 --> 00:14:22,505
Because in Marseille we
love that city. It's our city.
257
00:14:22,529 --> 00:14:26,300
And at the same time,
we hate a lot of aspects.
258
00:14:26,324 --> 00:14:31,263
We have both love and hate.
It's part of a complex, I think.
259
00:14:31,287 --> 00:14:35,184
Marseille has always
made bad choices in politics.
260
00:14:35,208 --> 00:14:37,855
When France lost its colonies,
it was an economic disaster for
261
00:14:37,879 --> 00:14:40,523
Marseille.
262
00:14:40,547 --> 00:14:45,569
I'm thinking about one of
your cities in the states, Detroit.
263
00:14:45,593 --> 00:14:47,822
It was a huge city. It was very important.
264
00:14:47,846 --> 00:14:49,448
And a beautiful... -And what happened?
265
00:14:49,472 --> 00:14:52,785
Yeah, we abandoned
Detroit. We abandoned it.
266
00:14:52,809 --> 00:14:55,579
It became too black for America to...
267
00:14:55,603 --> 00:14:59,416
Maybe France is abandoning Marseille.
268
00:14:59,440 --> 00:15:02,754
Sometimes people say, in
Marseille, people, - they are racist.
269
00:15:02,780 --> 00:15:05,048
I would say in Marseille,
people, they are connected
270
00:15:05,072 --> 00:15:07,341
with other people.
271
00:15:07,365 --> 00:15:11,887
Let's hope Marseille people figure that out
272
00:15:11,911 --> 00:15:13,913
because I think it's amazing here.
273
00:15:26,967 --> 00:15:29,134
If you ask real Marseillease these day,
274
00:15:29,158 --> 00:15:31,323
what's the iconic dish?
275
00:15:31,347 --> 00:15:34,181
The one thing you most closely
associate with home, the answer
276
00:15:34,205 --> 00:15:37,061
might surprise you.
277
00:15:37,562 --> 00:15:38,456
Pizza.
278
00:15:38,480 --> 00:15:41,105
Marseille, it turns out,
is the pizza truck capital
279
00:15:41,129 --> 00:15:43,753
of France.
280
00:15:43,777 --> 00:15:46,881
So this could be a whole
new beginning for you, Eric.
281
00:15:46,905 --> 00:15:48,465
Yes.
282
00:15:48,489 --> 00:15:50,050
I always said, you should have a truck.
283
00:15:50,074 --> 00:15:52,094
Yeah. I'll do it with you.
284
00:15:52,118 --> 00:15:55,389
- Do you have pizza experience?
- Never did a pizza in my life.
285
00:15:55,413 --> 00:15:56,432
Does he know this.
286
00:15:56,456 --> 00:15:58,176
No, he doesn't know. I'm going to tell him.
287
00:16:00,334 --> 00:16:01,437
Okay, let's go.
288
00:16:01,461 --> 00:16:05,191
Our employer for this episode
of the real world - geriatric edition
289
00:16:05,217 --> 00:16:06,983
Is Jean-Denis Martinez.
290
00:16:07,007 --> 00:16:09,027
His yellow truck, a rolling pizza oven
291
00:16:09,051 --> 00:16:11,093
is well known in the neighborhood.
292
00:16:11,117 --> 00:16:13,156
Meaning he's busy.
293
00:16:13,180 --> 00:16:14,909
He's taking orders soon.
294
00:16:14,933 --> 00:16:16,118
We're not going be good at this.
295
00:16:16,142 --> 00:16:18,328
This is going to be like "I love Lucy."
296
00:16:18,352 --> 00:16:20,497
More like "laurel and hardy."
297
00:16:20,521 --> 00:16:22,917
This is like a nightmare. I
actually have this nightmare,
298
00:16:22,941 --> 00:16:25,881
where like, there's orders coming in, and I don't -
understand what they are because it's in a different
299
00:16:25,905 --> 00:16:28,839
Language and I don't
know where anything is.
300
00:16:28,863 --> 00:16:31,550
And I'm falling behind.
This is literally my nightmare.
301
00:16:31,574 --> 00:16:33,427
Okay, get ready.
302
00:16:33,451 --> 00:16:36,096
Get in there.
303
00:16:36,120 --> 00:16:41,101
Lucy, come on, put on the
sauce. spread it on there, come on.
304
00:16:41,125 --> 00:16:42,645
Don't take my job.
305
00:16:42,669 --> 00:16:43,795
No, no, no.
306
00:16:45,588 --> 00:16:46,589
You don't push.
307
00:16:48,132 --> 00:16:50,593
Three spoons.
308
00:16:52,136 --> 00:16:53,304
You're sloppy, man.
309
00:16:55,014 --> 00:16:56,241
What is that?
310
00:16:56,265 --> 00:16:57,409
What? I'm getting there.
311
00:16:57,433 --> 00:16:59,352
It has to be even, the sauce.
312
00:17:01,270 --> 00:17:04,750
Okay, ham, mushrooms and cheese. Let's go.
313
00:17:04,774 --> 00:17:06,543
Come on, man. Customers
are backing up here.
314
00:17:06,567 --> 00:17:08,736
- They want the pizza.
- My pizza is good, okay?
315
00:17:11,489 --> 00:17:13,509
No, no, no, no. A little bit like that.
316
00:17:13,533 --> 00:17:16,661
A little bit like that. Like that. Good.
317
00:17:20,707 --> 00:17:23,602
Pizza, I soon notice, is different here.
318
00:17:23,626 --> 00:17:25,729
Toppings are somewhat on the high end.
319
00:17:25,753 --> 00:17:32,903
Crème fraiche, reblochon
cheese, lardon, figs, chevre.
320
00:17:32,927 --> 00:17:34,404
Look at this line.
321
00:17:34,428 --> 00:17:37,199
Stop digging around with
your insane perfectionism.
322
00:17:37,223 --> 00:17:39,058
- Tony, he wants pizza, the guy.
- Yup.
323
00:17:40,267 --> 00:17:41,204
Can you translate this for me?
324
00:17:41,228 --> 00:17:43,580
I think this man is
speaking in profanities to me.
325
00:17:43,604 --> 00:17:46,583
How long have you been
working on this pizza?
326
00:17:46,607 --> 00:17:49,503
Michelangelo worked on the
Sistine chapel for less time.
327
00:17:49,527 --> 00:17:51,005
There's a line of people waiting, Tony.
328
00:17:51,029 --> 00:17:52,464
It's turning ugly out there.
329
00:17:52,488 --> 00:17:53,757
Tony, lady wants a pizza.
330
00:17:53,781 --> 00:17:57,535
He's new. He's new. I
can't do anything with him.
331
00:18:04,250 --> 00:18:05,144
What happened?
332
00:18:05,168 --> 00:18:07,563
Are you on your break or what?
333
00:18:07,587 --> 00:18:10,423
Yeah. This is France. Got a nice break.
334
00:18:15,386 --> 00:18:18,575
Another beautiful day in
paradise and we're - heading out
335
00:18:18,601 --> 00:18:20,016
Into the country side.
336
00:18:21,726 --> 00:18:24,747
And as always, when embarking
on a brotastic adventure,
337
00:18:24,771 --> 00:18:26,707
an appropriate vehicle is called for.
338
00:18:26,731 --> 00:18:30,836
In this case, a 1972 Citroen Maserati.
339
00:18:30,860 --> 00:18:33,756
This is sweet. It's totally 70s.
340
00:18:33,780 --> 00:18:36,174
You have to buy me one of these.
341
00:18:36,198 --> 00:18:39,053
No. if we had one of these.
342
00:18:39,077 --> 00:18:42,598
I bet Serge Gainsbourg...
343
00:18:42,622 --> 00:18:46,061
Serge Gainsbourg probably banged
Jane Birkin - in the back of one of these.
344
00:18:46,087 --> 00:18:48,544
No actually, you need a little more room.
345
00:18:51,297 --> 00:18:53,568
Lourmarin is a 1000 year
old town about 90 minutes
346
00:18:53,592 --> 00:18:55,861
from Marseille.
347
00:18:55,885 --> 00:18:59,097
A picture-perfect village
known for its farmer's market.
348
00:19:01,099 --> 00:19:02,618
You like green salad?
349
00:19:02,642 --> 00:19:04,954
If I make a green salad,
you going to eat it?
350
00:19:04,978 --> 00:19:05,979
No.
351
00:19:06,896 --> 00:19:08,439
This one is very ripe.
352
00:19:10,733 --> 00:19:12,461
That one, okay. We take the female.
353
00:19:12,485 --> 00:19:14,964
You have a black coconut with basil?
354
00:19:14,988 --> 00:19:18,133
- Or the traditional one?
- Let's go traditional.
355
00:19:18,157 --> 00:19:19,718
We don't have time for messing around here.
356
00:19:19,742 --> 00:19:22,679
- We need figs.
- What else is new?
357
00:19:22,703 --> 00:19:24,723
We need a... -Yeah, yeah, yeah.
358
00:19:24,747 --> 00:19:26,141
Definitely. And some bread.
359
00:19:26,165 --> 00:19:27,726
And the bread.
360
00:19:27,750 --> 00:19:29,686
- And wine.
- And the wine.
361
00:19:29,710 --> 00:19:32,564
A very, very, very expensive wine.
362
00:19:32,588 --> 00:19:35,359
- -Yeah? -Yeah. we're blowing out the
- budget, man.
363
00:19:39,053 --> 00:19:41,073
Okay. Good.
364
00:19:41,097 --> 00:19:42,348
Need more money.
365
00:19:43,349 --> 00:19:45,494
So we open two reds?
366
00:19:45,518 --> 00:19:47,061
We're going to be smashed.
367
00:19:58,322 --> 00:20:01,701
We'll be needing that.
That's our cheese selection.
368
00:20:03,119 --> 00:20:05,621
Which I will be artfully plating.
369
00:20:07,748 --> 00:20:11,228
Baking like a meatloaf all of a sudden,
you go from freezing to - high heat.
370
00:20:11,254 --> 00:20:13,605
I tell you, it's like...
371
00:20:13,629 --> 00:20:15,149
- It's rough, huh?
- It's rough.
372
00:20:15,173 --> 00:20:16,859
I use the butter.
373
00:20:16,883 --> 00:20:18,401
By the time we're
halfway through this bottle,
374
00:20:18,425 --> 00:20:21,237
you think this is as good
as the finest Bordeaux.
375
00:20:21,261 --> 00:20:23,157
And by the way, we're
not suggesting, advising,
376
00:20:23,181 --> 00:20:25,075
recommending
377
00:20:25,099 --> 00:20:28,037
or any way condoning the
driving of a motor vehicle,
378
00:20:28,061 --> 00:20:33,125
especially a high powered
Italian French hybrid,
379
00:20:33,149 --> 00:20:35,377
while drunk because that would be wrong.
380
00:20:35,401 --> 00:20:36,795
Well we're going to take a nap before.
381
00:20:36,819 --> 00:20:39,631
Right, until our blood
alcohol level is in alignment
382
00:20:39,655 --> 00:20:43,052
with all local regulations and laws.
383
00:20:43,076 --> 00:20:45,203
I'm going to put salt on the tomatoes.
384
00:20:46,954 --> 00:20:48,765
Oh, that's going to be good like that.
385
00:20:48,789 --> 00:20:51,143
You know Martha Stewart pretty well.
386
00:20:51,167 --> 00:20:53,062
- You've been on her show a lot.
- Yeah, yeah.
387
00:20:53,086 --> 00:20:55,355
Give me an honest answer.
388
00:20:55,379 --> 00:20:58,025
In a street fight, could
Martha Stewart choke me out?
389
00:20:58,049 --> 00:21:01,153
I think if she goes to the dark side, yeah.
390
00:21:01,177 --> 00:21:02,445
I think so, too.
391
00:21:02,469 --> 00:21:04,531
This is not like my show at all, actually.
392
00:21:04,555 --> 00:21:06,033
I'm going to get shit
for this, I'm telling you.
393
00:21:06,057 --> 00:21:07,934
You're not keeping it real anymore, man.
394
00:21:10,061 --> 00:21:11,914
All right look, it looks like a wine label.
395
00:21:11,938 --> 00:21:13,456
As a Buddhist, does this worry you?
396
00:21:13,480 --> 00:21:15,710
- -I'm sorry? -As a Buddhist does it worry
- you,
397
00:21:15,736 --> 00:21:18,795
Considering how well
this life turned out for you?
398
00:21:18,819 --> 00:21:22,632
No, it's good karma from my previous life.
399
00:21:22,656 --> 00:21:24,760
But how long can that karma last?
400
00:21:24,784 --> 00:21:27,012
Until it's dead. It ends.
401
00:21:27,036 --> 00:21:28,513
When do you think that might be?
402
00:21:28,537 --> 00:21:31,391
Any time soon, you never know.
Karma switch like that boom.
403
00:21:31,415 --> 00:21:33,185
What would you not want to come back as?
404
00:21:33,209 --> 00:21:36,813
What would your worst case
scenario be in the next life?
405
00:21:36,837 --> 00:21:38,690
How many chances do you have
406
00:21:38,714 --> 00:21:42,402
to be born as what you are, what I am?
407
00:21:42,426 --> 00:21:43,946
In the entire universe.
408
00:21:43,970 --> 00:21:45,906
Isn't that worrying to you?
409
00:21:45,930 --> 00:21:48,784
The next life cannot
possibly be better than this.
410
00:21:48,808 --> 00:21:50,035
It's probably going to suck.
411
00:21:50,059 --> 00:21:53,288
I mean, best-case scenario,
you know, in our next life,
412
00:21:53,312 --> 00:21:57,417
maybe if you get to sit in a sub
shop in Asbury Park, New Jersey,
413
00:21:57,441 --> 00:21:59,753
that will be the greatest day of your life.
414
00:21:59,777 --> 00:22:00,671
That will be the best-case scenario.
415
00:22:00,695 --> 00:22:02,089
But the most challenging...
416
00:22:02,113 --> 00:22:07,219
You end up, you know, a mime.
417
00:22:07,243 --> 00:22:09,345
A diseased itinerant mime.
418
00:22:09,369 --> 00:22:11,932
Wandering the streets for money.
419
00:22:11,956 --> 00:22:12,683
Or worse.
420
00:22:12,707 --> 00:22:14,393
You're a desperate case. I
don't know what - to do with you.
421
00:22:14,417 --> 00:22:16,145
I'm just saying how much
better can it be than this?
422
00:22:16,169 --> 00:22:18,438
Enjoy every minute of this now, Eric.
423
00:22:18,462 --> 00:22:21,316
And pray, pray, pray that this is it.
424
00:22:21,340 --> 00:22:23,860
That at the end of the they
roll you into a hole in the ground.
425
00:22:23,884 --> 00:22:25,028
And you're diet for worms.
426
00:22:25,052 --> 00:22:29,075
Because if you're right, and there
is a next life, we are -, my friend.
427
00:22:29,101 --> 00:22:31,243
Well, the ultimate idea
is to be enlightened,
428
00:22:31,267 --> 00:22:34,204
to come back and help
as many people as you can.
429
00:22:34,228 --> 00:22:37,730
So all phenomenon of life and
what you perceive as reality,
430
00:22:37,754 --> 00:22:41,253
is ultimately one.
431
00:22:41,277 --> 00:22:42,569
Let's leave it at that.
432
00:22:45,405 --> 00:22:46,657
Serenity now.
433
00:22:47,783 --> 00:22:50,036
- Cheers.
- Cheers.
434
00:22:52,412 --> 00:22:54,600
With our bellies full,
we're now prepared for the
435
00:22:54,624 --> 00:22:56,810
challenge to come.
436
00:22:56,834 --> 00:23:01,190
This is Rodiere and Danielle
of the villages pick tock team.
437
00:23:01,214 --> 00:23:03,735
The hilltop village of
Roussillon is where our epic
438
00:23:03,759 --> 00:23:06,278
battle is to take place.
439
00:23:06,302 --> 00:23:10,657
Four men enter thunder
dome. Only two shall leave.
440
00:23:10,681 --> 00:23:13,059
Well, look at these guys.
We're totally getting hustled.
441
00:23:15,561 --> 00:23:16,937
Yeah, we're in trouble.
442
00:23:18,356 --> 00:23:20,876
- Now they're not joking anymore.
- Yeah, I know.
443
00:23:20,900 --> 00:23:23,545
USA, USA, USA.
444
00:23:23,569 --> 00:23:25,881
- Oh, we have one point.
- All right.
445
00:23:25,905 --> 00:23:29,677
So our humiliation is not total.
It's all we really - were looking for.
446
00:23:29,703 --> 00:23:32,012
- Yeah, the rest we don't care.
- Okay, success.
447
00:23:32,036 --> 00:23:33,829
- Okay. which one is me?
- I don't know.
448
00:23:40,211 --> 00:23:42,564
- Oh.
- Jinx it.
449
00:23:42,588 --> 00:23:43,588
Jinx it.
450
00:23:52,265 --> 00:23:53,891
Do habsa habsa habsa.
451
00:23:54,641 --> 00:23:56,410
See? Told you.
452
00:23:56,434 --> 00:23:58,038
You're wishing evil on others.
453
00:23:58,062 --> 00:24:00,480
You're totally coming
back as a sea cucumber.
454
00:24:09,573 --> 00:24:11,449
This is like "deliverance" in reverse.
455
00:24:12,701 --> 00:24:13,701
Oh, no!
456
00:24:15,204 --> 00:24:17,307
- What is it? 10-10 now?
- 10-10.
457
00:24:17,331 --> 00:24:17,975
This is my winning move.
458
00:24:17,999 --> 00:24:21,145
- I know, you're so into this. I can't believe it.
- You're so competitive.
459
00:24:22,378 --> 00:24:23,147
My jacket.
460
00:24:23,171 --> 00:24:25,798
Oh, yeah, blame your jacket. There you go.
461
00:24:26,840 --> 00:24:28,151
Oh!
462
00:24:28,175 --> 00:24:29,218
USA.
463
00:24:30,928 --> 00:24:33,764
Look! I've never seen him so happy.
464
00:24:35,224 --> 00:24:36,119
All right.
465
00:24:36,143 --> 00:24:37,435
It's Miller time.
466
00:24:39,145 --> 00:24:40,830
I've never seen this side of you, man.
467
00:24:40,854 --> 00:24:42,148
I don't know what to think.
468
00:24:48,612 --> 00:24:50,257
They call them le calanque.
469
00:24:50,281 --> 00:24:51,968
The many coves of fjords cutting through
470
00:24:51,992 --> 00:24:53,676
the rock and soil
471
00:24:53,700 --> 00:24:56,096
of the coast on both sides of the city.
472
00:24:56,120 --> 00:24:58,370
They're a distinctively
beautiful feature of an already
473
00:24:58,394 --> 00:25:00,642
beautiful area.
474
00:25:00,666 --> 00:25:02,749
But no matter how beautiful
the cliffs and chasms
475
00:25:02,773 --> 00:25:04,854
of le calanque
476
00:25:04,878 --> 00:25:08,275
I sure as hell wouldn't
care to dive into water
477
00:25:08,299 --> 00:25:10,735
of undeterminative
depth, from a great height.
478
00:25:10,759 --> 00:25:13,280
No, I would not do that.
479
00:25:13,304 --> 00:25:14,781
Welcome to my menu.
480
00:25:14,805 --> 00:25:16,658
- Oh yeah.
- Wow.
481
00:25:16,682 --> 00:25:18,201
Right, it's where you jump?
482
00:25:18,225 --> 00:25:18,953
Yes.
483
00:25:18,977 --> 00:25:20,996
- From here?
- 18 meters.
484
00:25:21,020 --> 00:25:22,956
- It's only 18 meters?
- Yes.
485
00:25:22,980 --> 00:25:25,125
It looks like it's much more.
486
00:25:25,149 --> 00:25:28,337
Lionel Franc known to his friends as lulu,
487
00:25:28,361 --> 00:25:30,422
grew up around le calanque.
488
00:25:30,446 --> 00:25:35,010
And yes he would do that,
he does it almost every day.
489
00:25:35,034 --> 00:25:38,763
You're very close. You
have to push yourself?
490
00:25:38,787 --> 00:25:40,706
Oh, I can't even look at you doing that.
491
00:25:41,665 --> 00:25:44,478
- Oh.
- That's it? You done?
492
00:25:44,502 --> 00:25:46,813
I'm done. I'm just gonna sit.
493
00:25:46,837 --> 00:25:47,731
Don't like heights.
494
00:25:47,755 --> 00:25:50,338
Oh, geez. I look at him and my calves start
495
00:25:50,362 --> 00:25:52,944
turning to jelly.
496
00:25:52,968 --> 00:25:54,136
Look at the fish.
497
00:25:58,556 --> 00:26:01,620
So after you belly flop and your
food squirts - out both end of you,
498
00:26:01,644 --> 00:26:03,884
- the fish will feed on you.
- That's why they're coming.
499
00:26:04,188 --> 00:26:05,314
Oh, geez.
500
00:26:07,525 --> 00:26:09,026
Oh, look at that.
501
00:26:10,986 --> 00:26:14,049
Exactly like me in the
morning, before breakfast.
502
00:26:14,073 --> 00:26:15,408
Okay, good for me.
503
00:26:58,492 --> 00:27:01,745
- Oooh.
- Hey, all right.
504
00:27:10,754 --> 00:27:13,191
- Come on, man, you can do that.
- I don't know.
505
00:27:13,215 --> 00:27:16,069
- Impressive.
- Yeah, very impressive.
506
00:27:16,093 --> 00:27:17,987
Does he get paid for that?
507
00:27:18,011 --> 00:27:20,220
I don't know. look, as
long as he's not a mime,
508
00:27:20,244 --> 00:27:22,451
I'm okay with it.
509
00:27:22,475 --> 00:27:23,701
He's definitely not a mime.
510
00:27:23,725 --> 00:27:27,872
Even the smell of mime
makeup, I start to tremble with fear.
511
00:27:27,896 --> 00:27:28,998
So it's a phobia.
512
00:27:29,022 --> 00:27:31,376
It's a serious phobia.
513
00:27:31,400 --> 00:27:36,423
Don't like it. Mimes, clowns, nurses shoes.
514
00:27:36,447 --> 00:27:38,508
Like those white nurses shoes.
515
00:27:38,532 --> 00:27:39,633
Oh, the clogs.
516
00:27:39,657 --> 00:27:42,117
No. They're, like, super comfortable, like,
517
00:27:42,141 --> 00:27:44,598
and they're white.
518
00:27:44,622 --> 00:27:45,433
Yeah.
519
00:27:45,457 --> 00:27:48,310
But not, like, super white
because they've been, you know,
520
00:27:48,334 --> 00:27:49,936
walking through various bodily fluids
521
00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:52,814
and there's a little speck
of, like, blood or urine on it.
522
00:27:52,838 --> 00:27:55,024
But it's... it's true terror.
523
00:27:55,048 --> 00:27:57,843
Wow.
524
00:28:17,112 --> 00:28:19,072
Missed it by that much.
525
00:28:23,619 --> 00:28:25,096
Too many men on this show.
526
00:28:25,120 --> 00:28:27,182
It's a freakin' brofest.
527
00:28:27,206 --> 00:28:29,560
Like most places, the
overwhelming majority of chefs
528
00:28:29,584 --> 00:28:31,936
in Marseille are men.
529
00:28:31,960 --> 00:28:34,814
However, each month, Georgiana Viou
530
00:28:34,838 --> 00:28:38,776
hosts a dinner for her
female colleagues, chefs all.
531
00:28:38,800 --> 00:28:40,903
Everybody here a chef in the business?
532
00:28:40,927 --> 00:28:41,656
Yeah.
533
00:28:41,680 --> 00:28:43,490
How many more are there like you?
534
00:28:43,514 --> 00:28:47,035
Uh, maybe three or four in Marseille.
535
00:28:47,059 --> 00:28:51,247
France, kind of macho country.
536
00:28:51,271 --> 00:28:55,001
And if you want to find your place,
537
00:28:55,025 --> 00:28:57,962
it's very difficult when you are a girl.
538
00:28:57,986 --> 00:29:01,133
But actually, like, in
Mediterranean, the example
539
00:29:01,157 --> 00:29:04,302
for cooking, the basic...
540
00:29:04,326 --> 00:29:05,512
Yes.
541
00:29:05,536 --> 00:29:06,638
Because if you want to have good food,
542
00:29:06,662 --> 00:29:08,890
you don't go to restaurants
in Marseille that much.
543
00:29:08,914 --> 00:29:12,918
You know your grandmother
or mother will cook much better.
544
00:29:14,961 --> 00:29:18,858
Georgiana is from Benin,
via Nigeria and London,
545
00:29:18,882 --> 00:29:22,987
but beyond all else, she's Marseillaise.
546
00:29:23,011 --> 00:29:27,783
Beef tartare with botargo,
dried eggs, apple and celeriac.
547
00:29:27,807 --> 00:29:30,120
Counterintuitive one would
think, but truly amazing and
548
00:29:30,144 --> 00:29:32,455
delicious.
549
00:29:32,479 --> 00:29:36,042
I'm coming from Paris and
I used to cook with butter
550
00:29:36,066 --> 00:29:38,379
and cream and whatever,
and today I can't imagine
551
00:29:38,403 --> 00:29:40,714
my cuisine
552
00:29:40,738 --> 00:29:43,384
without olive oil, without
vegetables, without seafood,
553
00:29:43,408 --> 00:29:46,052
without spices.
554
00:29:46,076 --> 00:29:51,266
And on the top you're going
to put some salt of the tartare.
555
00:29:51,290 --> 00:29:53,728
It's a good idea. It's better
than putting - anchovies.
556
00:29:53,754 --> 00:30:00,191
If you want, you can do it on tartare.
557
00:30:00,215 --> 00:30:02,151
I'm going to do it. I'll
send you the picture.
558
00:30:02,175 --> 00:30:05,405
- Sure?
- Seriously. I'm going to do it.
559
00:30:05,429 --> 00:30:06,846
Oh, cool.
560
00:30:08,974 --> 00:30:10,890
And my single favorite Marseillaise classic
561
00:30:10,914 --> 00:30:12,828
pierre e parke.
562
00:30:12,852 --> 00:30:15,436
A dish which encapsulates
everything I love and believe
563
00:30:15,460 --> 00:30:18,042
in about food.
564
00:30:18,066 --> 00:30:20,836
First the hair on the
sheep's foot is burned off.
565
00:30:20,860 --> 00:30:24,215
The meat is then tenderized
and cut into pieces.
566
00:30:24,239 --> 00:30:27,802
Sheep's tripe is cleaned
and cut into squares.
567
00:30:27,826 --> 00:30:30,388
Each piece is stuffed
with onions, parsley, garlic
568
00:30:30,412 --> 00:30:32,704
and salt pork before being
rolled and wrapped into small
569
00:30:32,728 --> 00:30:35,017
pouches.
570
00:30:35,041 --> 00:30:38,062
These are stewed for several
hours in a sauce of white wine,
571
00:30:38,086 --> 00:30:40,295
tomatoes, bacon, onion,
and carrots along with
572
00:30:40,319 --> 00:30:42,525
the sheep's foot.
573
00:30:42,549 --> 00:30:44,360
- I love this dish.
- I love this dish, too.
574
00:30:44,384 --> 00:30:47,029
This is everything I believe in in food.
575
00:30:47,053 --> 00:30:49,574
This is just absolutely the top.
576
00:30:49,598 --> 00:30:50,700
This is a dish with soul,
577
00:30:50,724 --> 00:30:52,307
to make it good, you have to put
578
00:30:52,331 --> 00:30:53,911
your soul into it.
579
00:30:53,935 --> 00:30:58,691
If you don't have it, you don't...
580
00:31:02,444 --> 00:31:03,213
I like it here.
581
00:31:03,237 --> 00:31:05,507
He's already thinking about retiring here.
582
00:31:05,531 --> 00:31:06,924
In Marseille? Sure?
583
00:31:06,948 --> 00:31:09,928
- -You said you could retire here. -I said I could retire here.
- Yeah.
584
00:31:09,954 --> 00:31:12,579
- Yeah, why not?
- No, no, I'm happy to hear that.
585
00:31:15,833 --> 00:31:19,272
It's not an easy city. It's
not museums, Disneyland,
586
00:31:19,296 --> 00:31:22,732
you know,
587
00:31:22,756 --> 00:31:27,236
Everything is kind of
dirty and complicated.
588
00:31:27,260 --> 00:31:29,469
But when you are in
Marseille and just you have
589
00:31:29,493 --> 00:31:31,700
the fantastic light
590
00:31:31,724 --> 00:31:36,037
and the sea and you
can have the best fishes.
591
00:31:36,061 --> 00:31:39,690
Yes, you are home. I
mean, just like being home.
592
00:31:54,371 --> 00:31:56,663
Marseille is not France in the best
593
00:31:56,687 --> 00:31:58,976
possible way.
594
00:31:59,000 --> 00:32:03,691
Algerians, Moroccans, Italians,
their cultural and culinary - influences
595
00:32:03,717 --> 00:32:06,110
Have enriched Marseille
with flavors and colors
596
00:32:06,134 --> 00:32:08,528
all their own.
597
00:32:08,552 --> 00:32:11,155
But there's another major influence.
598
00:32:11,179 --> 00:32:13,367
The Corsican mafia,
who to be fair along with
599
00:32:13,391 --> 00:32:15,577
their Sicilian colleagues
600
00:32:15,601 --> 00:32:17,788
did kind of run things around here for much
601
00:32:17,812 --> 00:32:19,997
of the last century.
602
00:32:20,021 --> 00:32:22,208
Those days are mostly over.
603
00:32:22,232 --> 00:32:26,129
And the Corsican presence has dwindled
to a few thousand, - which is a shame
604
00:32:26,155 --> 00:32:29,591
Because Corsica produces
some of the most wonderful cheese
605
00:32:29,615 --> 00:32:33,052
anywhere.
606
00:32:33,076 --> 00:32:36,347
Pancetta and the... -Awesome.
607
00:32:36,371 --> 00:32:38,331
Yeah but we want everything.
608
00:32:40,333 --> 00:32:42,103
A cured meat and cheese shop
609
00:32:42,127 --> 00:32:46,733
run by Marie Paul and
family still going after 70 years.
610
00:32:46,757 --> 00:32:49,007
Famously or notoriously,
however you want to put it,
611
00:32:49,031 --> 00:32:51,279
this was a Corsican town.
612
00:32:51,303 --> 00:32:54,741
When I would go to the shop as a kid,
613
00:32:54,765 --> 00:33:00,288
my aunt, probably a typical
xenophobic French woman
614
00:33:00,312 --> 00:33:03,229
of her generation, said
all the Corsicans, they're all
615
00:33:03,253 --> 00:33:06,192
gangsters or policemen.
616
00:33:08,278 --> 00:33:10,322
Oh, today just got better.
617
00:33:15,285 --> 00:33:16,596
Very flavorful.
618
00:33:16,620 --> 00:33:18,765
Oh, this one is unbelievable.
619
00:33:18,789 --> 00:33:20,349
The flavor of that is unbelievable.
620
00:33:20,373 --> 00:33:21,893
- Yeah, we're not dicking around.
- Lingers too.
621
00:33:21,917 --> 00:33:24,771
I love this. It's making me happy.
622
00:33:24,795 --> 00:33:26,063
Want some?
623
00:33:26,087 --> 00:33:28,441
Here, have a piece.
624
00:33:28,465 --> 00:33:30,173
You want some? This is the copa,
625
00:33:30,197 --> 00:33:31,927
this one is special.
626
00:33:34,179 --> 00:33:36,139
All right. Let's move on to cheese.
627
00:33:40,352 --> 00:33:42,705
Ah, look at that. That's beautiful.
628
00:33:42,729 --> 00:33:46,125
Those ones are milder. This one is strong.
629
00:33:46,149 --> 00:33:49,462
Oh wow. That is some...
630
00:33:49,486 --> 00:33:51,673
This looks very
intensive but it's like ooh.
631
00:33:51,697 --> 00:33:54,843
That is some deep
funk. That is some... wow.
632
00:33:54,867 --> 00:33:58,262
See, when I eat cheese like
this and I drink wine like this,
633
00:33:58,286 --> 00:34:00,640
I start thinking of my fantasies.
634
00:34:00,664 --> 00:34:02,266
Maybe you saw Godfather too.
635
00:34:02,290 --> 00:34:03,185
Yeah, of course.
636
00:34:03,209 --> 00:34:05,603
I just think, I could just
spend the rest of my life
637
00:34:05,627 --> 00:34:07,648
sitting on a hill in Corsica,
eating goat cheese,
638
00:34:07,672 --> 00:34:09,691
drinking wine
639
00:34:09,715 --> 00:34:14,236
and having my enemies
killed by remote control.
640
00:34:14,260 --> 00:34:16,448
I would love to live that lifestyle except,
641
00:34:16,472 --> 00:34:18,658
killing enemies,
642
00:34:18,682 --> 00:34:21,661
as you know, I'm not killing anyone.
643
00:34:21,685 --> 00:34:24,288
I've never seen you wish ill on anyone.
644
00:34:24,312 --> 00:34:25,707
As long as I've known you.
645
00:34:25,731 --> 00:34:30,628
You've never even said that rat
bastard, I hope something really
646
00:34:30,652 --> 00:34:33,255
bad happens, I hope he gets stomach cancer.
647
00:34:33,279 --> 00:34:37,259
Or, you've never even said
I hope he loses his girlfriend.
648
00:34:37,283 --> 00:34:40,013
You've never wished ill on anyone.
649
00:34:40,037 --> 00:34:40,848
- I don't.
- So let me ask,
650
00:34:40,872 --> 00:34:43,098
in your darkest heart of
hearts, do you ever stray,
651
00:34:43,122 --> 00:34:47,270
do you ever find yourself thinking, oh,
I really hope - they just, I don't know,
652
00:34:47,296 --> 00:34:48,670
I hope they get herpes?
653
00:34:50,881 --> 00:34:52,799
I wish ill on people every day.
654
00:34:54,426 --> 00:34:59,472
Sorry Tony, you know,
I mean, cheers to hell
655
00:35:08,398 --> 00:35:10,459
It's a big night in Marseille.
656
00:35:10,483 --> 00:35:13,046
The city's football team,
that's soccer team to you,
657
00:35:13,070 --> 00:35:16,131
is playing which means
the whole city's watching.
658
00:35:16,155 --> 00:35:19,218
Eric and I head to the hipster
neighborhood to meet up with
659
00:35:19,242 --> 00:35:22,410
Gilles Rof, a film-maker and
sportswriter for France's top
660
00:35:22,434 --> 00:35:25,600
newspaper le monde.
661
00:35:25,624 --> 00:35:30,104
So, tonight, the big
game, it's Marseille, Lille.
662
00:35:30,128 --> 00:35:33,190
It's Lille against Marseille
because it's in Lille.
663
00:35:33,214 --> 00:35:34,275
It's not here.
664
00:35:34,299 --> 00:35:35,651
So we'll have to watch it on TV.
665
00:35:35,675 --> 00:35:37,612
And will all of Marseille be watching this?
666
00:35:37,636 --> 00:35:39,406
- -Yeah. -Everybody's going to be
- watching.
667
00:35:39,432 --> 00:35:41,783
You know, we did a very good season.
668
00:35:41,807 --> 00:35:44,285
But at the end of the
season, we are only fourth.
669
00:35:44,309 --> 00:35:45,828
- So it's a must win.
- It's very important.
670
00:35:45,852 --> 00:35:48,313
- So it's a must win today.
- Right.
671
00:35:57,280 --> 00:35:59,134
So the dream of every Marseillaisean,
672
00:35:59,158 --> 00:36:01,010
the perfect season
673
00:36:01,034 --> 00:36:03,889
would be to see Marseille
crush Paris, move on
674
00:36:03,913 --> 00:36:06,766
and go all the way.
675
00:36:06,790 --> 00:36:09,518
They don't want to be second first.
676
00:36:09,542 --> 00:36:10,561
They want to be second to none.
677
00:36:10,585 --> 00:36:13,565
And in football, it's
one of the only issues,
678
00:36:13,589 --> 00:36:16,591
where they can be first.
679
00:36:32,774 --> 00:36:37,130
That's why people here love
so much their soccer team.
680
00:36:37,154 --> 00:36:40,072
Because it's the place where you can show
681
00:36:40,096 --> 00:36:43,011
your identity.
682
00:36:43,035 --> 00:36:45,389
If you go all around the
streets and you ask people,
683
00:36:45,413 --> 00:36:47,765
where are you from?
684
00:36:47,789 --> 00:36:51,144
They'll tell you, I'm from
Nigeria, I'm from Morocco.
685
00:36:51,168 --> 00:36:54,189
But if you ask them,
what is your favorite team
686
00:36:54,213 --> 00:36:57,256
they will say Marseille.
687
00:37:04,056 --> 00:37:06,659
Because they are a part of the city.
688
00:37:06,683 --> 00:37:10,205
They are from this city
and the football team
689
00:37:10,229 --> 00:37:13,773
is the flag of this city.
690
00:37:30,999 --> 00:37:32,707
About 75 years ago, the properties around
691
00:37:32,731 --> 00:37:34,436
the calanques
692
00:37:34,460 --> 00:37:38,399
were mostly farmland then small shacks.
693
00:37:38,423 --> 00:37:40,506
The working class
families from the city used
694
00:37:40,530 --> 00:37:42,611
as weekend getaways.
695
00:37:42,635 --> 00:37:44,822
No running water or indoor plumbing.
696
00:37:44,846 --> 00:37:47,368
Simple. A place to get
together, have a long
697
00:37:47,392 --> 00:37:49,911
winey lunch.
698
00:37:49,935 --> 00:37:53,372
Hello.
699
00:37:53,396 --> 00:37:55,750
You can't build new ones
and the ones that are here
700
00:37:55,774 --> 00:37:59,461
like this one owned by
Dominique and Natalie
701
00:37:59,485 --> 00:38:02,381
have been in the same
family since the '40s.
702
00:38:02,405 --> 00:38:03,966
And they ain't going anywhere.
703
00:38:03,990 --> 00:38:06,677
Is this area protected?
Meaning if I wanted to open
704
00:38:06,701 --> 00:38:10,098
a giant modern hotel across
there, it's impossible, right?
705
00:38:10,122 --> 00:38:12,914
Actually, a couple of years
ago it was kind of scaled up on
706
00:38:12,938 --> 00:38:15,728
the protection level,
707
00:38:15,752 --> 00:38:17,479
so nothing's going to happen now.
708
00:38:17,503 --> 00:38:19,983
And most of these properties
are owned by the same family
709
00:38:20,007 --> 00:38:22,508
for many years?
710
00:38:26,304 --> 00:38:28,408
But we live in Marseille
and we came here for
711
00:38:28,432 --> 00:38:30,534
the weekend.
712
00:38:30,558 --> 00:38:31,643
That's nice.
713
00:38:36,148 --> 00:38:41,545
Lunch is being prepared by de-de.
714
00:38:41,569 --> 00:38:45,424
Penisse, crispy fried fritters
of chickpea, which go well
715
00:38:45,448 --> 00:38:48,302
with Natalies aioli,
and one of my favorites,
716
00:38:48,326 --> 00:38:51,932
Mediterranian sea snails
simmered in garlic, wild
717
00:38:51,956 --> 00:38:55,559
fennell and orange peel.
718
00:38:55,583 --> 00:38:58,146
That's the taste of this region for me.
719
00:38:58,170 --> 00:39:00,608
It's garlic, olive oil, saffron.
720
00:39:00,632 --> 00:39:03,067
True.
721
00:39:03,091 --> 00:39:05,360
- And these.
- Exactly.
722
00:39:05,384 --> 00:39:08,906
And look at this. Look at this.
723
00:39:08,930 --> 00:39:12,785
Sardine. Lightly marinated
in lemon and olive oil.
724
00:39:12,809 --> 00:39:14,996
You can pretty much rub that all over me.
725
00:39:15,020 --> 00:39:16,164
I don't care.
726
00:39:16,188 --> 00:39:18,540
So good and so fresh.
727
00:39:18,564 --> 00:39:21,669
Perfect. Oily little fish in a garden.
728
00:39:21,693 --> 00:39:24,590
Okay, so we discussed the characteristics
729
00:39:24,614 --> 00:39:27,508
of the true Marseillase.
730
00:39:27,532 --> 00:39:30,035
Is Marseille France?
731
00:39:34,789 --> 00:39:35,790
No.
732
00:39:45,424 --> 00:39:47,402
You're loyal to New York before America.
733
00:39:47,426 --> 00:39:48,594
That's true.
734
00:39:49,721 --> 00:39:50,906
So what about the people?
735
00:39:50,930 --> 00:39:55,894
What do all true, true
Marseillaise have in common?
736
00:39:58,521 --> 00:40:00,041
A big liar?
737
00:40:00,065 --> 00:40:01,834
They have the reputation of exaggerating.
738
00:40:01,858 --> 00:40:04,378
So if you eat sardines
like that, we're like,
739
00:40:04,402 --> 00:40:06,571
I want to learn to have sardines like this.
740
00:40:12,202 --> 00:40:14,765
Octopus stew. Slow cooked
in wine and typical elements
741
00:40:14,789 --> 00:40:17,350
of cooking,
742
00:40:17,374 --> 00:40:21,812
like dry orange peel, garlic, and tomato.
743
00:40:21,836 --> 00:40:24,190
Spoon over pasta and enjoy.
744
00:40:24,214 --> 00:40:28,093
Oh, yes. I can smell
that octo stock. Fantastic.
745
00:40:33,181 --> 00:40:35,516
So when are you retiring? At what age?
746
00:40:36,517 --> 00:40:38,519
As soon as possible. Seriously.
747
00:40:39,645 --> 00:40:40,956
- Right?
- You want to tom back?
748
00:40:40,980 --> 00:40:42,648
Yeah, I don't want to leave.
749
00:40:44,150 --> 00:40:46,921
I mean, when you see that, that lifestyle,
750
00:40:46,945 --> 00:40:50,341
and people come from all
over Europe by highways,
751
00:40:50,365 --> 00:40:53,052
they spend hours in their car to be here.
752
00:40:53,076 --> 00:40:56,305
My grandparents and my
uncles used to have that lifestyle.
753
00:40:56,329 --> 00:40:58,307
Like exactly like that.
- Right?
754
00:40:58,331 --> 00:41:01,560
And I forgot about it. Now I'm remembering.
755
00:41:01,584 --> 00:41:04,480
I'm telling you, a chain of
cynical surf and turf - restaurants,
756
00:41:04,506 --> 00:41:06,672
We can cash out in two years.
757
00:41:09,301 --> 00:41:11,803
If it is to be here, yeah, I'll do it.
58735
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