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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:12,240 --> 00:00:16,359 Hidden away in the vastness of the Pacific, and undiscovered by men 2 00:00:16,360 --> 00:00:21,720 until only a few centuries ago, lies a group of strange volcanic islands. 3 00:00:28,240 --> 00:00:33,280 Each is a crucible where evolution proceeds at extraordinary speed. 4 00:00:36,800 --> 00:00:37,960 Galapagos. 5 00:00:55,160 --> 00:00:58,920 Each island contains its own unique community. 6 00:01:03,040 --> 00:01:06,479 The discovery of these creatures inspired an idea 7 00:01:06,480 --> 00:01:09,839 that changed our understanding of life on Earth... 8 00:01:09,840 --> 00:01:11,080 Evolution. 9 00:01:21,400 --> 00:01:24,719 And today, scientists on Galapagos are continuing to make 10 00:01:24,720 --> 00:01:27,999 discoveries that shed light on that crucial process 11 00:01:28,000 --> 00:01:31,399 and have revealed that human beings can be just as powerful 12 00:01:31,400 --> 00:01:34,320 a driving force for change as any other factor. 13 00:01:52,400 --> 00:01:56,999 Something here was the catalyst that produced the most spectacular 14 00:01:57,000 --> 00:02:01,399 explosion of biological diversity in the world. 15 00:02:01,400 --> 00:02:04,079 It's not just the number of species that appeared, 16 00:02:04,080 --> 00:02:08,479 but the rate at which they did so, and the result is so extraordinary, 17 00:02:08,480 --> 00:02:11,599 it inspired the most important of all biological theories - 18 00:02:11,600 --> 00:02:15,679 Charles Darwin's evolution by natural selection. 19 00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:19,439 And now, 200 years later, we're beginning to understand 20 00:02:19,440 --> 00:02:23,880 the deep-lying forces that produced this biological wonderland. 21 00:02:40,280 --> 00:02:43,080 One of those factors is isolation. 22 00:02:53,840 --> 00:02:57,799 A part of Isabela Island, the largest of the 16 in the 23 00:02:57,800 --> 00:03:02,120 archipelago, is so difficult to get to, it's hardly ever visited. 24 00:03:08,520 --> 00:03:10,160 Wolf Volcano. 25 00:03:15,680 --> 00:03:19,359 Its giant crater lies exactly on the Equator, 26 00:03:19,360 --> 00:03:22,400 and is encircled internally by steep cliffs. 27 00:03:24,560 --> 00:03:26,279 And on its flanks, 28 00:03:26,280 --> 00:03:29,119 evidence was discovered of a catastrophe that might, 29 00:03:29,120 --> 00:03:34,040 paradoxically, eventually lead to the creation of a new species. 30 00:03:36,960 --> 00:03:39,959 This flow of recently solidified lava 31 00:03:39,960 --> 00:03:43,999 has created an impassable barrier 100 metres wide, 32 00:03:44,000 --> 00:03:46,440 right through the vegetation. 33 00:03:48,880 --> 00:03:52,960 The fresh lava is razor-sharp, and almost impossible to cross. 34 00:03:55,320 --> 00:03:57,800 On it lie bones. 35 00:03:59,600 --> 00:04:03,960 Bleached white by the baking sun, they're those of giant tortoises. 36 00:04:12,640 --> 00:04:17,400 Some animals that got stuck here are still clinging to life. 37 00:04:23,000 --> 00:04:24,720 Tortoises are tough. 38 00:04:26,480 --> 00:04:29,840 They can survive for months without any food or water. 39 00:04:31,080 --> 00:04:34,479 And that worsened their fate - 40 00:04:34,480 --> 00:04:36,320 it will take them months to die. 41 00:04:45,280 --> 00:04:50,319 Why so many tortoises tried to cross the lava barrier, nobody knows. 42 00:04:50,320 --> 00:04:55,439 What drove them to keep attempting this impossible journey? 43 00:04:55,440 --> 00:04:57,879 Perhaps they were desperately trying to rejoin 44 00:04:57,880 --> 00:04:59,400 other members of their group. 45 00:05:02,440 --> 00:05:05,400 Their deaths, however, are significant. 46 00:05:06,960 --> 00:05:11,359 They illustrate a principle that applies to the whole of nature. 47 00:05:11,360 --> 00:05:15,759 It's not unique to the Galapagos, but it's because of the Galapagos 48 00:05:15,760 --> 00:05:18,320 that we first came to understand it. 49 00:05:21,120 --> 00:05:24,679 This tragic scene, filmed for the first time, 50 00:05:24,680 --> 00:05:29,400 may provide a clue as to how a new species may start to evolve. 51 00:05:33,600 --> 00:05:37,479 The lava flow created an impassable physical barrier 52 00:05:37,480 --> 00:05:41,520 across the tortoises' territory, dividing it into two. 53 00:05:44,920 --> 00:05:50,360 So two tortoise populations that were once one must now live apart. 54 00:05:51,640 --> 00:05:53,919 If there is any significant difference, 55 00:05:53,920 --> 00:05:56,879 now or in the future, between their two territories, 56 00:05:56,880 --> 00:06:00,760 the tortoises may eventually become two different species. 57 00:06:10,640 --> 00:06:14,960 Animals and plants are evolving throughout the natural world. 58 00:06:16,280 --> 00:06:20,279 But it was the strange creatures of Galapagos that first revealed 59 00:06:20,280 --> 00:06:21,480 how that happens. 60 00:06:23,440 --> 00:06:28,840 Nearly 200 years ago, the islands were visited by a young naturalist. 61 00:06:30,080 --> 00:06:33,319 On September 16th 1835, 62 00:06:33,320 --> 00:06:37,519 HMS Beagle arrived in the Galapagos Islands, 63 00:06:37,520 --> 00:06:42,480 and the 26-year-old Charles Darwin stepped ashore to explore. 64 00:06:44,640 --> 00:06:45,679 At the time, 65 00:06:45,680 --> 00:06:49,720 very little was known about the natural history of the islands. 66 00:06:51,800 --> 00:06:56,080 Darwin, initially, was fascinated by its geology. 67 00:06:59,840 --> 00:07:04,400 But it was the animals that gave him his historic insight. 68 00:07:08,440 --> 00:07:12,359 Darwin was only on these islands for five weeks. 69 00:07:12,360 --> 00:07:15,559 But in that short time, there were things he saw 70 00:07:15,560 --> 00:07:19,159 and conversations he had which stuck in his mind. 71 00:07:19,160 --> 00:07:23,599 For example, the British vice-governor of Floreana Island 72 00:07:23,600 --> 00:07:28,079 said that he could tell which island a giant tortoise came from 73 00:07:28,080 --> 00:07:30,440 simply by the shape of its shell. 74 00:07:34,720 --> 00:07:38,000 He pondered on the vice-governor's casual remark. 75 00:07:39,200 --> 00:07:42,159 Why were populations of tortoises on separate islands 76 00:07:42,160 --> 00:07:44,440 all slightly different from one another? 77 00:07:54,440 --> 00:07:57,879 He set about making a collection of animals and plants 78 00:07:57,880 --> 00:08:00,360 from all the islands he visited. 79 00:08:05,760 --> 00:08:09,359 Although it was the tortoises that first alerted Darwin 80 00:08:09,360 --> 00:08:13,359 to the differences between animals on different islands, 81 00:08:13,360 --> 00:08:17,199 it was his collection of these undramatic little birds, 82 00:08:17,200 --> 00:08:19,439 the finches, which provided him 83 00:08:19,440 --> 00:08:23,240 with the most substantial evidence for his great theory. 84 00:08:26,200 --> 00:08:29,399 We now know that the ancestral Galapagos finches 85 00:08:29,400 --> 00:08:32,160 arrived in these islands about 2 million years ago. 86 00:08:33,480 --> 00:08:38,559 Since then, they have diversified into a number of different species. 87 00:08:38,560 --> 00:08:40,599 Today, there are 13 of them, 88 00:08:40,600 --> 00:08:43,839 distributed throughout the archipelago. 89 00:08:43,840 --> 00:08:46,080 Each has its own special talents. 90 00:08:47,680 --> 00:08:50,959 The woodpecker finch has discovered how to use a tool 91 00:08:50,960 --> 00:08:54,720 to winkle grubs out of their burrows in the branches of trees. 92 00:09:00,320 --> 00:09:05,040 The vampire finch has learned how to extract blood from sitting birds. 93 00:09:11,080 --> 00:09:14,399 Darwin, when he returned to England, brought back with him 94 00:09:14,400 --> 00:09:17,000 a wide variety of specimens of all kinds, 95 00:09:19,320 --> 00:09:22,400 and he spent years studying his collections. 96 00:09:25,360 --> 00:09:28,679 He had a range of finches from several of the islands, 97 00:09:28,680 --> 00:09:32,400 and he noticed one particular way in which they differed. 98 00:09:34,320 --> 00:09:36,400 They had beaks of different sizes. 99 00:09:39,760 --> 00:09:40,760 Why? 100 00:09:44,480 --> 00:09:46,400 An idea grew in his mind. 101 00:09:49,240 --> 00:09:53,479 It would also apply to tortoises - maybe to all animals and plants, 102 00:09:53,480 --> 00:09:54,880 wherever they occurred. 103 00:09:59,640 --> 00:10:03,199 Painstakingly, meticulously, he started to accumulate 104 00:10:03,200 --> 00:10:06,879 evidence from all over the world to support his idea, 105 00:10:06,880 --> 00:10:10,439 and he called the process that produced new species 106 00:10:10,440 --> 00:10:12,960 "evolution by natural selection." 107 00:10:18,000 --> 00:10:21,399 And nowhere is its workings more vividly evident 108 00:10:21,400 --> 00:10:24,720 than here where it first occurred to him in the Galapagos. 109 00:10:26,800 --> 00:10:28,599 He realised why it was 110 00:10:28,600 --> 00:10:31,200 that there were several species of giant tortoises. 111 00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:39,199 That original species probably had a high-domed shell, like this one, 112 00:10:39,200 --> 00:10:42,919 and that's very useful on well-watered islands like this, 113 00:10:42,920 --> 00:10:46,039 where you have to barge your way through the vegetation. 114 00:10:46,040 --> 00:10:49,600 But on other islands, there are other problems. 115 00:10:58,040 --> 00:11:02,240 In the southeast corner of the archipelago lies Espanola Island. 116 00:11:09,240 --> 00:11:13,760 Here, there is virtually no edible vegetation at all. 117 00:11:15,400 --> 00:11:20,000 Except, that is, for this prickly pear cactus, opuntia. 118 00:11:21,200 --> 00:11:24,880 But this species of opuntia is very tall. 119 00:11:26,040 --> 00:11:28,639 And it has a tough, woody trunk. 120 00:11:28,640 --> 00:11:30,559 The only parts worth eating 121 00:11:30,560 --> 00:11:34,279 are the fleshy leaves and flowers at the top. 122 00:11:34,280 --> 00:11:37,520 Any giant tortoise that could reach them could get a meal. 123 00:11:40,280 --> 00:11:44,600 Tortoises with low, round fronts to their shells couldn't do that. 124 00:11:48,080 --> 00:11:50,639 But those with a peak at the front of their shell, 125 00:11:50,640 --> 00:11:53,799 and long necks, could just manage it. 126 00:11:53,800 --> 00:11:57,480 So they were the ones that survived and produced young. 127 00:12:02,840 --> 00:12:06,639 Over many thousands of generations and millions of years, 128 00:12:06,640 --> 00:12:09,279 the shell shape of the Espanola tortoise 129 00:12:09,280 --> 00:12:11,800 became more and more exaggerated. 130 00:12:16,040 --> 00:12:20,360 Now, the peak at the front of the shell is shaped like a saddle. 131 00:12:27,560 --> 00:12:30,359 Such a change didn't happen just on Espanola - 132 00:12:30,360 --> 00:12:32,680 different islands had their own versions. 133 00:12:35,880 --> 00:12:39,479 Eventually, there were 15 different species on the islands, 134 00:12:39,480 --> 00:12:41,880 all descended from a single founder. 135 00:12:45,160 --> 00:12:50,279 But why should the environments of the islands be so different? 136 00:12:50,280 --> 00:12:54,759 Well, a hint of that reason may come from looking at films 137 00:12:54,760 --> 00:12:57,520 I shot right here, back in 1978. 138 00:12:58,640 --> 00:13:02,119 In these programmes, we're going to survey 139 00:13:02,120 --> 00:13:05,519 the immeasurable number of animals that have been produced 140 00:13:05,520 --> 00:13:09,479 by natural selection, and look at them not as isolated oddities... 141 00:13:09,480 --> 00:13:15,719 That image of me, shot 30 years ago, indicates something extraordinary. 142 00:13:15,720 --> 00:13:21,479 In that time, the rock on which I was sitting has moved its position 143 00:13:21,480 --> 00:13:27,239 by about a metre from where I was then to where I am now. 144 00:13:27,240 --> 00:13:29,559 In fact, the whole of this island 145 00:13:29,560 --> 00:13:32,599 is drifting across the surface of the globe 146 00:13:32,600 --> 00:13:35,679 at a rate of about three centimetres a year, 147 00:13:35,680 --> 00:13:38,999 roughly the rate at which my fingernails grow. 148 00:13:39,000 --> 00:13:42,999 That may not sound much, but in the 3 million odd years 149 00:13:43,000 --> 00:13:47,439 since this island emerged above the surface of the ocean, 150 00:13:47,440 --> 00:13:53,000 it has drifted in a south-easterly direction by about 60 miles. 151 00:13:57,360 --> 00:14:01,119 Movements in the Earth's crust are the key to understanding 152 00:14:01,120 --> 00:14:04,440 the archipelago's extraordinary evolutionary history. 153 00:14:05,880 --> 00:14:09,599 A giant hotspot, rising from the Earth's molten core, 154 00:14:09,600 --> 00:14:13,800 began to build the Galapagos 4 million years ago. 155 00:14:25,840 --> 00:14:28,639 But, as the island drifted away from it, 156 00:14:28,640 --> 00:14:31,920 other volcanoes replaced it, one after the other. 157 00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:39,440 Each was built from an accumulation of ash and lava. 158 00:14:40,840 --> 00:14:45,120 But then, as each moved away, eruptions ceased. 159 00:14:48,800 --> 00:14:51,720 So a group of islands appeared, one after the other. 160 00:15:05,120 --> 00:15:07,919 The islands were separated from one another by water, 161 00:15:07,920 --> 00:15:11,839 so their populations can't, for the most part, mix. 162 00:15:11,840 --> 00:15:15,159 But they're just close enough for an occasional animal 163 00:15:15,160 --> 00:15:19,080 to float across and so seed a newly emerging island. 164 00:15:21,600 --> 00:15:24,239 Because the islands are of different ages, 165 00:15:24,240 --> 00:15:28,360 they contain between them a great variety of environments. 166 00:15:30,720 --> 00:15:34,520 And each has moulded its inhabitants in its own way. 167 00:15:37,520 --> 00:15:40,880 That is why their animals are so diverse. 168 00:15:48,480 --> 00:15:52,120 Each is a separate evolutionary community. 169 00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:10,280 Darwin had noticed some of the clearest differences. 170 00:16:14,040 --> 00:16:17,320 But there are many others that are less obvious. 171 00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:21,639 An isolated population of animals can change 172 00:16:21,640 --> 00:16:25,040 not only in their anatomy, but in their behaviour. 173 00:16:33,920 --> 00:16:37,840 Little lizards like this are found throughout the archipelago. 174 00:16:41,600 --> 00:16:44,840 Each island has its own distinct species. 175 00:16:48,120 --> 00:16:50,999 And they differ not so much in the way they look 176 00:16:51,000 --> 00:16:53,080 as the way they behave. 177 00:17:00,560 --> 00:17:03,600 This is a lava lizard. 178 00:17:04,840 --> 00:17:08,519 There are lots of them on the rocks around here. 179 00:17:08,520 --> 00:17:11,479 And in the breeding season, which is now, 180 00:17:11,480 --> 00:17:15,959 the males are competing with one another, 181 00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:19,359 both for territory and for females. 182 00:17:19,360 --> 00:17:24,359 And the way they do so is with press-ups. 183 00:17:24,360 --> 00:17:26,239 Watch. 184 00:17:33,760 --> 00:17:38,679 Actually, this is a model that is used by scientists 185 00:17:38,680 --> 00:17:43,279 to investigate the way in which these lizards communicate 186 00:17:43,280 --> 00:17:44,719 with one another. 187 00:17:44,720 --> 00:17:46,120 Let's see how he gets on. 188 00:17:58,040 --> 00:17:59,360 And there's a response. 189 00:18:01,440 --> 00:18:06,159 These press-ups vary, both in the number and the intensity, 190 00:18:06,160 --> 00:18:07,720 the speed at which they do it... 191 00:18:10,000 --> 00:18:11,840 ...and how high they bob their heads. 192 00:18:15,160 --> 00:18:20,079 The interesting thing is that the responses vary 193 00:18:20,080 --> 00:18:22,559 from species to species. 194 00:18:22,560 --> 00:18:28,480 In other words, each species has its own language of gestures. 195 00:18:32,880 --> 00:18:35,199 There are slight physical differences 196 00:18:35,200 --> 00:18:38,520 between the species of lava lizard on different islands. 197 00:18:41,080 --> 00:18:44,399 But now, because they have developed different gestures, 198 00:18:44,400 --> 00:18:47,000 they can't interbreed, even if they meet. 199 00:18:48,800 --> 00:18:51,240 They're separated by a language barrier. 200 00:19:00,040 --> 00:19:03,479 New technology now enables scientists 201 00:19:03,480 --> 00:19:06,199 to investigate the workings of evolution 202 00:19:06,200 --> 00:19:09,680 in ways that Darwin could hardly have ever imagined. 203 00:19:15,400 --> 00:19:19,199 X-rays are being used to work out what's happening 204 00:19:19,200 --> 00:19:22,359 to one of the least impressive animals on the island - 205 00:19:22,360 --> 00:19:24,400 a tiny land snail. 206 00:19:28,400 --> 00:19:30,399 It's been known for a long time 207 00:19:30,400 --> 00:19:32,879 that there are many different snail species 208 00:19:32,880 --> 00:19:34,880 all closely related. 209 00:19:39,000 --> 00:19:42,199 But a recent study of their shells using X-rays 210 00:19:42,200 --> 00:19:45,120 has demonstrated just how diverse they have become. 211 00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:53,039 The length of the shell compared to the diameter of the tube inside 212 00:19:53,040 --> 00:19:55,960 is marginally different in different populations. 213 00:19:58,440 --> 00:20:02,480 It's certainly different enough to define them as different species. 214 00:20:04,080 --> 00:20:07,039 And there is an extraordinarily large number of them 215 00:20:07,040 --> 00:20:08,679 throughout the islands 216 00:20:08,680 --> 00:20:11,880 with what seem to be very complex interrelationships. 217 00:20:14,200 --> 00:20:16,599 In fact, there are more species of them 218 00:20:16,600 --> 00:20:19,320 than any other kind of animal on the islands. 219 00:20:20,840 --> 00:20:24,760 Even one small island may contain several different species. 220 00:20:26,280 --> 00:20:28,280 But why? 221 00:20:29,400 --> 00:20:31,959 It's all to do with the different microclimates 222 00:20:31,960 --> 00:20:34,800 that occur even within a single small island. 223 00:20:38,400 --> 00:20:41,440 Black lava rock has one species... 224 00:20:42,680 --> 00:20:46,000 ...and sandy beaches close by a very different one. 225 00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:51,719 A dark cave has one sort... 226 00:20:51,720 --> 00:20:56,120 and a leafy forest growing around its mouth, yet another kind. 227 00:20:57,520 --> 00:21:00,519 And it seems to be connected with humidity. 228 00:21:00,520 --> 00:21:05,000 At the one extreme, there are these with a wide mouth. 229 00:21:06,040 --> 00:21:09,759 They come from relatively well-watered islands. 230 00:21:09,760 --> 00:21:11,999 And a wide mouth like that has a body 231 00:21:12,000 --> 00:21:15,560 which produces a roughly globular shell. 232 00:21:16,800 --> 00:21:18,599 But on dry islands, 233 00:21:18,600 --> 00:21:22,159 the mouth has to be very small to prevent evaporation 234 00:21:22,160 --> 00:21:25,720 and that produces a long, conical shape. 235 00:21:26,960 --> 00:21:29,519 So, Galapagos' new species 236 00:21:29,520 --> 00:21:32,559 range from the subtly different, like snails, 237 00:21:32,560 --> 00:21:35,160 to the obvious, like the marine iguanas. 238 00:21:37,440 --> 00:21:40,599 In other parts of the world, evolution usually proceeds 239 00:21:40,600 --> 00:21:42,639 in a slow, gradual way. 240 00:21:42,640 --> 00:21:47,000 It can take millions of years for new species to appear. 241 00:21:48,840 --> 00:21:53,320 But in Galapagos it's been happening in an evolutionary blink of an eye. 242 00:21:59,680 --> 00:22:01,879 Galapagos, for its size, 243 00:22:01,880 --> 00:22:04,960 has more unique species than anywhere else on Earth. 244 00:22:06,880 --> 00:22:08,839 And all have appeared in the islands' 245 00:22:08,840 --> 00:22:10,600 comparatively short history. 246 00:22:17,120 --> 00:22:20,120 And that raises another intriguing question. 247 00:22:22,160 --> 00:22:25,400 Why did such a great number appear so quickly? 248 00:22:28,120 --> 00:22:31,920 The answer is to do with the absence of some animals. 249 00:22:37,400 --> 00:22:38,760 Predators. 250 00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:42,640 The few that are here are all very small. 251 00:22:46,080 --> 00:22:50,960 This is one of the most lethal - scolopendra, a centipede. 252 00:22:52,800 --> 00:22:55,359 It roams the undergrowth searching for prey, 253 00:22:55,360 --> 00:22:57,399 which it kills by injecting venom 254 00:22:57,400 --> 00:23:00,000 from the sharp claws on its front legs. 255 00:23:01,400 --> 00:23:04,199 But it's only 30cm long, 256 00:23:04,200 --> 00:23:06,480 so its victims are mostly tiny. 257 00:23:09,480 --> 00:23:12,800 Bigger animals, like mockingbirds, can easily subdue one. 258 00:23:17,000 --> 00:23:19,400 They even feed centipedes to their chicks. 259 00:23:27,600 --> 00:23:31,279 The greatest concentration of predators in the whole archipelago 260 00:23:31,280 --> 00:23:34,080 is found on the rocky island of Fernandina. 261 00:23:36,000 --> 00:23:39,239 But they too, of their kind, are rather small 262 00:23:39,240 --> 00:23:41,440 and comparatively ineffectual. 263 00:23:43,000 --> 00:23:45,280 Snakes. 264 00:23:46,280 --> 00:23:48,320 The Galapagos racer. 265 00:23:51,600 --> 00:23:55,480 They search for prey in the colonies of marine iguanas. 266 00:23:59,040 --> 00:24:02,079 But all they can manage to do is to pick off the young, 267 00:24:02,080 --> 00:24:04,199 the weak and the dying. 268 00:24:04,200 --> 00:24:06,040 And even that they find quite difficult. 269 00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:12,320 They hunt in the rocks around the fringes of the colony. 270 00:24:15,160 --> 00:24:18,319 They have to use a combination of both venom and constriction 271 00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:19,400 to make a kill. 272 00:24:25,960 --> 00:24:28,919 And even then, because they're small snakes, 273 00:24:28,920 --> 00:24:31,800 it may take more than one to overcome a victim. 274 00:24:40,000 --> 00:24:43,159 And then there's a tug of war between the winners to settle 275 00:24:43,160 --> 00:24:44,680 who has the prize. 276 00:24:55,600 --> 00:25:00,000 There are other predators that prey on the iguanas from the air. 277 00:25:04,680 --> 00:25:06,160 The Galapagos hawk. 278 00:25:15,320 --> 00:25:19,079 But even this hunter is seldom powerful enough to subdue 279 00:25:19,080 --> 00:25:20,280 a big male. 280 00:25:22,040 --> 00:25:26,480 It usually waits until it finds one that is weak or encumbered. 281 00:25:41,360 --> 00:25:44,760 A pregnant female, trying to find a place to lay her eggs. 282 00:25:59,360 --> 00:26:02,119 And there are not many hawks here. 283 00:26:02,120 --> 00:26:04,839 Only 150 mated pairs, 284 00:26:04,840 --> 00:26:08,080 because there's only a limited number of nesting sites. 285 00:26:10,280 --> 00:26:13,999 There are so few birds that they make very little impact 286 00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:15,800 on the iguana population. 287 00:26:18,160 --> 00:26:21,680 So why are there no larger predators on Galapagos? 288 00:26:23,680 --> 00:26:26,599 Most of the Galapagos animals came from the rainforests 289 00:26:26,600 --> 00:26:29,239 of South America, 600 miles away. 290 00:26:31,120 --> 00:26:34,280 There are plenty of big predators in these forests. 291 00:26:43,320 --> 00:26:46,679 Reptiles got to Galapagos by floating across the ocean 292 00:26:46,680 --> 00:26:48,160 on rafts of vegetation. 293 00:26:52,360 --> 00:26:55,759 Only hardy animals like the iguanas and tortoises 294 00:26:55,760 --> 00:26:57,920 could make that 600 mile voyage. 295 00:27:03,640 --> 00:27:06,839 The great predators of the jungles, however, are mammals - 296 00:27:06,840 --> 00:27:10,760 big, fast, and warm-blooded, like jaguars. 297 00:27:27,840 --> 00:27:31,439 If any of them had ever been carried away on a raft of vegetation, 298 00:27:31,440 --> 00:27:35,040 they would have perished out on the open ocean within a few days. 299 00:27:37,000 --> 00:27:40,439 So now, while there are many kinds of herbivorous reptiles 300 00:27:40,440 --> 00:27:41,640 in the Galapagos... 301 00:27:42,880 --> 00:27:45,840 ...there are no large predatory mammals of any kind. 302 00:27:47,320 --> 00:27:51,640 And this has had a profound effect on the animals that did get here. 303 00:27:53,400 --> 00:27:57,080 It's something noticed by every visitor who comes to the islands. 304 00:28:00,720 --> 00:28:04,120 All the animals here are amazingly tame. 305 00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:12,040 Even the little finches are happy to bathe within inches of a stranger. 306 00:28:15,640 --> 00:28:20,359 The lack of predators may have a surprisingly widespread effect. 307 00:28:20,360 --> 00:28:23,559 It's not just that animals are not frightened of strangers, 308 00:28:23,560 --> 00:28:26,279 the so-called "island tameness", 309 00:28:26,280 --> 00:28:30,759 but that time that would be spent hiding from attackers 310 00:28:30,760 --> 00:28:35,399 can now be used to find food, find mates and raise young, 311 00:28:35,400 --> 00:28:40,280 and so produce more young, which hastens the progress of evolution. 312 00:28:46,760 --> 00:28:49,719 There is no more impressive example of that 313 00:28:49,720 --> 00:28:51,680 than Fernandina's iguana colony. 314 00:28:53,640 --> 00:28:55,839 With no significant predators around, 315 00:28:55,840 --> 00:28:58,720 these herbivores produce lots of young. 316 00:29:01,080 --> 00:29:04,919 So many, that their problem is not how to defend themselves, 317 00:29:04,920 --> 00:29:08,240 but how to find enough food to support their great numbers. 318 00:29:09,440 --> 00:29:12,039 So they ventured into the sea itself, 319 00:29:12,040 --> 00:29:15,120 to graze seaweed on the sea floor. 320 00:29:17,280 --> 00:29:21,319 And although swimming in the cold sea cools them uncomfortably, 321 00:29:21,320 --> 00:29:23,039 with no predators around, 322 00:29:23,040 --> 00:29:26,160 they can soon put that right by stretching out in the sun. 323 00:29:35,120 --> 00:29:38,199 The lack of big predators has had an effect 324 00:29:38,200 --> 00:29:40,879 on all the animals of the Galapagos. 325 00:29:40,880 --> 00:29:45,519 They reproduce freely, so populations increase rapidly. 326 00:29:45,520 --> 00:29:48,520 And so, consequently, does evolutionary change. 327 00:30:17,400 --> 00:30:20,400 But island tameness has dangers. 328 00:30:22,480 --> 00:30:24,919 If a major predator does appear, 329 00:30:24,920 --> 00:30:28,560 then wildlife will be ill-equipped to defend itself. 330 00:30:36,120 --> 00:30:37,839 And one did. 331 00:30:37,840 --> 00:30:39,959 In the year 1535, 332 00:30:39,960 --> 00:30:43,800 the most successful predatory animal of all arrived... 333 00:30:46,080 --> 00:30:47,360 Man. 334 00:30:52,160 --> 00:30:54,119 By the beginning of the 17th century, 335 00:30:54,120 --> 00:30:57,679 the islands had become a haven for pirates. 336 00:30:57,680 --> 00:30:59,439 By the 19th century, 337 00:30:59,440 --> 00:31:03,319 whalers and merchantmen were calling here regularly, 338 00:31:03,320 --> 00:31:06,640 and all these ships had a disastrous effect. 339 00:31:09,120 --> 00:31:12,839 There is little or no fresh water on these islands, 340 00:31:12,840 --> 00:31:16,519 but they have a much rarer resource. 341 00:31:16,520 --> 00:31:21,999 Giant tortoises can survive without food or water for very long periods, 342 00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:25,759 so ships could come here, collect the tortoises, 343 00:31:25,760 --> 00:31:29,079 stow them in the hold, and then after weeks at sea, 344 00:31:29,080 --> 00:31:32,880 bring one out, butcher it, and have a meal of fresh meat. 345 00:31:38,920 --> 00:31:42,799 Slow, lumbering, and with no way of defending themselves, 346 00:31:42,800 --> 00:31:45,160 the tortoises were easy victims. 347 00:31:47,400 --> 00:31:49,720 The population was decimated. 348 00:31:51,400 --> 00:31:53,959 Between the 16th and 20th centuries, 349 00:31:53,960 --> 00:31:57,200 more than 100,000 were taken away and slaughtered. 350 00:31:59,000 --> 00:32:01,040 And the ships brought other dangers. 351 00:32:03,000 --> 00:32:04,400 Rats. 352 00:32:07,800 --> 00:32:10,320 They feasted on the tortoises' eggs. 353 00:32:18,400 --> 00:32:23,559 On the island of Pinzon, rats consume nearly every single egg, 354 00:32:23,560 --> 00:32:26,960 leaving the tortoise population on the brink of extinction. 355 00:32:28,680 --> 00:32:33,040 But another island lost its tortoise population altogether. 356 00:32:34,800 --> 00:32:36,959 Pinta, located on the shipping route 357 00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:39,759 around the northern fringe of the archipelago, 358 00:32:39,760 --> 00:32:43,919 was a favourite stopover for ships and their hungry crews. 359 00:32:43,920 --> 00:32:47,519 And the unique Pinta tortoise was presumed extinct 360 00:32:47,520 --> 00:32:49,720 by the early 20th century. 361 00:32:53,600 --> 00:32:59,319 But in 1972, an amazing discovery was made and filmed. 362 00:32:59,320 --> 00:33:03,320 A living male Pinta tortoise was discovered in the undergrowth. 363 00:33:04,560 --> 00:33:08,359 He was taken off to a protected enclosure on the main island, 364 00:33:08,360 --> 00:33:10,720 to live out his days in comfort and safety. 365 00:33:13,520 --> 00:33:17,319 Here, he became an international celebrity, 366 00:33:17,320 --> 00:33:20,040 and he was given a name to reflect his state - 367 00:33:22,000 --> 00:33:23,240 Lonesome George. 368 00:33:26,480 --> 00:33:28,879 He's about 80 years old, 369 00:33:28,880 --> 00:33:32,119 and he's getting a bit creaky in his joints... 370 00:33:32,120 --> 00:33:34,920 As, indeed, am I. 371 00:33:36,280 --> 00:33:42,479 He is arguably the rarest animal in the world - 372 00:33:42,480 --> 00:33:45,759 certainly, there can be none rarer, 373 00:33:45,760 --> 00:33:48,959 for he is the last of his kind. 374 00:33:48,960 --> 00:33:53,719 His female died a long, long time ago. 375 00:33:53,720 --> 00:34:00,559 When he dies, the Pinta species of Galapagos tortoise will be extinct. 376 00:34:00,560 --> 00:34:05,079 But he is a very important animal. 377 00:34:05,080 --> 00:34:08,399 Probably more than any other single creature, 378 00:34:08,400 --> 00:34:13,039 he's focused the attention of the world on the fragility 379 00:34:13,040 --> 00:34:17,679 of our environment, and he's stimulated science 380 00:34:17,680 --> 00:34:22,840 to look into whole new areas of research here in the Galapagos. 381 00:34:27,720 --> 00:34:32,920 Just 14 days after we filmed Lonesome, he died in his sleep. 382 00:34:35,800 --> 00:34:37,240 But he's not forgotten. 383 00:34:41,120 --> 00:34:45,079 Lonesome George's story, like Darwin's fleeting but famous visit 384 00:34:45,080 --> 00:34:49,320 200 years ago, has attracted many visitors to the islands. 385 00:35:01,040 --> 00:35:03,599 Today, the archipelago is the basis 386 00:35:03,600 --> 00:35:06,639 of a multi-million dollar tourist industry. 387 00:35:06,640 --> 00:35:10,639 30,000 people live here, in three small towns, 388 00:35:10,640 --> 00:35:14,719 and fleets of small boats take visitors on carefully-planned trips 389 00:35:14,720 --> 00:35:16,560 to see the islands' main sights. 390 00:35:19,440 --> 00:35:22,319 It took animals and plants millions of years 391 00:35:22,320 --> 00:35:24,640 to find and colonise the Galapagos. 392 00:35:25,600 --> 00:35:29,919 Now, new species of animals and plants from the world's continents 393 00:35:29,920 --> 00:35:32,080 can get here in a matter of hours. 394 00:35:34,000 --> 00:35:37,119 And, having got here, they're often inadvertently spread 395 00:35:37,120 --> 00:35:39,440 almost immediately through the islands. 396 00:35:43,200 --> 00:35:45,519 Seeds of foreign plants hitch a ride 397 00:35:45,520 --> 00:35:48,720 on the air currents generated by passing traffic. 398 00:35:51,360 --> 00:35:53,799 And the Galapagos' network of roads 399 00:35:53,800 --> 00:35:56,360 is now lined by foreign invaders. 400 00:35:59,000 --> 00:36:01,919 Among them, the common European blackberry - 401 00:36:01,920 --> 00:36:04,799 a plant that can grow a centimetre a day 402 00:36:04,800 --> 00:36:07,800 and create impenetrable thickets four metres thick. 403 00:36:09,400 --> 00:36:11,799 They not only choke and kill native plants, 404 00:36:11,800 --> 00:36:15,400 they even block the paths of large animals such as the tortoises. 405 00:36:21,000 --> 00:36:24,839 Scientists are now trying to analyse the impact of human beings 406 00:36:24,840 --> 00:36:27,440 on the course of evolution in the islands. 407 00:36:31,640 --> 00:36:33,519 And, surprisingly perhaps, 408 00:36:33,520 --> 00:36:38,040 the finches that Darwin made famous are still providing new insights. 409 00:36:46,200 --> 00:36:50,239 Biologist Andrew Hendry is looking at how the finches' evolution 410 00:36:50,240 --> 00:36:53,120 may have been affected by human settlements. 411 00:36:54,600 --> 00:36:56,759 When humans come into a new location, 412 00:36:56,760 --> 00:36:59,999 essentially what they do is change the environment, 413 00:37:00,000 --> 00:37:02,960 and that's changing selection that's acting on the populations. 414 00:37:06,360 --> 00:37:12,159 Hendry is studying one particular species - the medium ground finch. 415 00:37:12,160 --> 00:37:13,999 OK, yeah. 416 00:37:14,000 --> 00:37:17,759 Remarkably, he's found that this finch, in its natural setting, 417 00:37:17,760 --> 00:37:20,880 is on the verge of dividing into two separate species. 418 00:37:22,760 --> 00:37:25,480 The two are defined by the size of their beaks. 419 00:37:26,520 --> 00:37:28,720 One is small, the other, large. 420 00:37:29,960 --> 00:37:32,279 The difference between them has been caused 421 00:37:32,280 --> 00:37:34,040 by the types of food they eat. 422 00:37:35,120 --> 00:37:38,919 So, if you feed on some small seed, you tend to have a small beak, 423 00:37:38,920 --> 00:37:42,279 and if you feed on large seed, you tend to have a really big beak 424 00:37:42,280 --> 00:37:43,600 and you tend to have a hard bite. 425 00:37:45,720 --> 00:37:49,679 Remarkably, Hendry has found that among medium ground finches 426 00:37:49,680 --> 00:37:54,239 that live near human beings, the distinct big and small beak forms 427 00:37:54,240 --> 00:37:55,640 are getting fewer. 428 00:38:04,640 --> 00:38:09,320 It's as if the two variants are here merging back into one. 429 00:38:13,960 --> 00:38:18,240 The presence of human beings has stopped this finch from evolving. 430 00:38:21,640 --> 00:38:25,879 We found that they feed a lot on human food, ranging from rice 431 00:38:25,880 --> 00:38:31,399 to fruit to grains to potato chips, and feeding on those types 432 00:38:31,400 --> 00:38:34,959 of different foods, it doesn't really seem to matter what your beak 433 00:38:34,960 --> 00:38:36,479 size is any more. 434 00:38:36,480 --> 00:38:38,519 So there isn't that pressure to have 435 00:38:38,520 --> 00:38:40,799 a small beak version and a large beak version. 436 00:38:40,800 --> 00:38:44,119 And there's no selection against those intermediate birds any more. 437 00:38:44,120 --> 00:38:46,239 There's plenty of foods for them to eat. 438 00:38:46,240 --> 00:38:49,759 So it seems like humans have caused a speciation reversal - 439 00:38:49,760 --> 00:38:53,000 they're fusing back together again as a result of human influences. 440 00:39:00,160 --> 00:39:04,719 So, human beings can be just as much a part of nature as the forces 441 00:39:04,720 --> 00:39:08,600 that first shaped these islands and the organisms that live on them. 442 00:39:10,600 --> 00:39:15,760 But human beings can not only destroy... they can conserve. 443 00:39:17,680 --> 00:39:22,639 In the 1970s, the tortoise population reached an all-time low. 444 00:39:22,640 --> 00:39:25,160 There were only a few thousand of them left. 445 00:39:27,000 --> 00:39:30,200 But now there's a major breeding programme for them. 446 00:39:38,160 --> 00:39:41,440 The tortoise population today is increasing. 447 00:39:43,280 --> 00:39:46,920 Once-threatened species have been brought back from the brink. 448 00:39:55,120 --> 00:39:59,599 And scientists are discovering just how important and influential 449 00:39:59,600 --> 00:40:02,000 this reintroduction programme might be. 450 00:40:04,000 --> 00:40:07,679 On Alcedo Volcano, home for the largest population 451 00:40:07,680 --> 00:40:11,359 of free-roaming giant tortoises, a study has shown 452 00:40:11,360 --> 00:40:15,560 that they're crucial to the health of all the surrounding wildlife. 453 00:40:17,200 --> 00:40:21,239 Today, there are some 15,000 tortoises on the Galapagos 454 00:40:21,240 --> 00:40:24,720 and they're an essential element in the islands' ecosystem. 455 00:40:27,200 --> 00:40:31,040 One study in particular has shown just how important they are. 456 00:40:32,440 --> 00:40:38,200 Biologist Steve Blake uses satellite tags to track their movements. 457 00:40:41,600 --> 00:40:44,919 They reveal, to most people's great surprise, 458 00:40:44,920 --> 00:40:48,639 that the tortoises migrate over huge distances, 459 00:40:48,640 --> 00:40:52,439 from the depths of the crater, right up to the rim. 460 00:40:52,440 --> 00:40:53,879 It's just phenomenal. 461 00:40:53,880 --> 00:40:59,319 Why would a 600lb reptile migrate from sea level 462 00:40:59,320 --> 00:41:02,000 to up to 1,000 metres on some islands? 463 00:41:04,520 --> 00:41:07,760 From the air, the routes the tortoises take are clearly visible. 464 00:41:14,880 --> 00:41:18,320 And they use the same highways, year after year. 465 00:41:24,880 --> 00:41:29,439 One of the fundamental drivers of the migration seems to be food. 466 00:41:29,440 --> 00:41:32,239 Tortoises tend to come to the highlands 467 00:41:32,240 --> 00:41:34,159 at the coolest time of year. 468 00:41:34,160 --> 00:41:37,319 Up in the highlands, they can feed on a year-round, 469 00:41:37,320 --> 00:41:38,879 low-quality food source. 470 00:41:38,880 --> 00:41:42,399 But then when the rains kick in, the lowlands tend to green up, 471 00:41:42,400 --> 00:41:45,520 and the tortoises go down there, probably to fatten up. 472 00:41:48,240 --> 00:41:51,639 But Blake's studies reveal much more about the tortoises 473 00:41:51,640 --> 00:41:53,040 than just where they go. 474 00:41:54,120 --> 00:41:57,799 They demonstrate the extraordinary effect that tortoises have 475 00:41:57,800 --> 00:41:59,840 on their surrounding environment. 476 00:42:05,000 --> 00:42:10,240 They create special conditions that suit all kinds of other animals. 477 00:42:11,880 --> 00:42:14,160 They shape and prune the landscape. 478 00:42:15,200 --> 00:42:19,359 They disperse seeds, trample down the undergrowth, 479 00:42:19,360 --> 00:42:21,800 and trim the lowest branches of the bushes. 480 00:42:23,120 --> 00:42:27,239 And all that allows seeds to germinate. 481 00:42:27,240 --> 00:42:31,520 It disturbs insects, so that they can be gathered by hungry predators. 482 00:42:33,520 --> 00:42:38,160 Their dung is also crucial to the survival of many other creatures. 483 00:42:40,400 --> 00:42:42,479 Beetles lay their eggs in it, 484 00:42:42,480 --> 00:42:46,240 and their larvae grow fat on the nutriment that it still contains. 485 00:42:50,200 --> 00:42:53,439 Tortoises are definitely the megafauna of the islands. 486 00:42:53,440 --> 00:42:56,479 They're like the elephants of Galapagos. 487 00:42:56,480 --> 00:42:59,759 They're out there in large numbers, they've got big bodies, 488 00:42:59,760 --> 00:43:04,439 they're creating myriad microhabitats for other species. 489 00:43:04,440 --> 00:43:06,839 They truly are the gardeners of Galapagos. 490 00:43:06,840 --> 00:43:11,560 That's probably the best way to sum up their ecological role. 491 00:43:17,800 --> 00:43:20,119 The implications are very important - 492 00:43:20,120 --> 00:43:23,039 they suggest that the reintroduction of tortoises 493 00:43:23,040 --> 00:43:26,479 to islands where their numbers have been seriously reduced 494 00:43:26,480 --> 00:43:29,840 could restore the richness of the whole environment. 495 00:43:31,760 --> 00:43:34,799 We have the chance to bring back the full glory 496 00:43:34,800 --> 00:43:37,280 of these fragile ecosystems. 497 00:43:48,200 --> 00:43:52,159 Today, unlike many other tropical islands elsewhere, 498 00:43:52,160 --> 00:43:57,520 95% of Galapagos' biodiversity still survives. 499 00:43:59,400 --> 00:44:00,520 Just. 500 00:44:06,760 --> 00:44:12,160 And, amazingly, new species are still being discovered. 501 00:44:17,400 --> 00:44:21,839 One was found just 35 miles north of Alcedo, 502 00:44:21,840 --> 00:44:25,640 on the giant, little-visited volcano, Wolf. 503 00:44:34,800 --> 00:44:37,639 To get to Wolf, you really need a helicopter. 504 00:44:37,640 --> 00:44:39,959 It's one of the most hostile and least-explored parts 505 00:44:39,960 --> 00:44:41,440 of the whole archipelago. 506 00:44:43,960 --> 00:44:47,159 There had been rumours of something strange 507 00:44:47,160 --> 00:44:49,960 living up on these remote, high slopes. 508 00:44:55,760 --> 00:44:58,279 Something that lived in burrows, 509 00:44:58,280 --> 00:45:00,960 and only emerged every now and then to feed. 510 00:45:11,800 --> 00:45:14,680 A scientific team went up to investigate. 511 00:45:34,400 --> 00:45:37,280 What they discovered astonished everybody. 512 00:45:40,440 --> 00:45:43,800 A completely new and unknown species of reptile. 513 00:45:47,680 --> 00:45:49,520 A pink iguana. 514 00:45:55,760 --> 00:45:58,719 Until now, it was thought that the Galapagos possessed 515 00:45:58,720 --> 00:46:00,600 only three species of iguana. 516 00:46:03,400 --> 00:46:06,440 The black marine iguana, that lives on the seashore. 517 00:46:07,720 --> 00:46:10,799 And two species of yellow iguana that live inland, 518 00:46:10,800 --> 00:46:13,440 feeding on cacti and other vegetation. 519 00:46:17,080 --> 00:46:20,559 This land iguana is certainly the most closely related 520 00:46:20,560 --> 00:46:22,400 to the newly discovered one. 521 00:46:25,080 --> 00:46:28,519 Genetic studies of the 100 or so individuals that make up this 522 00:46:28,520 --> 00:46:32,999 tiny population have shown that it diverged from its land iguana 523 00:46:33,000 --> 00:46:35,640 cousins more than 5 million years ago. 524 00:46:37,200 --> 00:46:41,679 So, amazingly, it has been here just as long as the other two, 525 00:46:41,680 --> 00:46:44,920 but has remained unknown to science until now. 526 00:46:47,800 --> 00:46:49,799 The discovery also means 527 00:46:49,800 --> 00:46:54,200 that it is even older than Wolf Volcano, where it now lives. 528 00:47:00,920 --> 00:47:03,759 And of course, there is another great mystery 529 00:47:03,760 --> 00:47:05,560 that no-one has yet explained... 530 00:47:09,400 --> 00:47:11,640 Nobody knows why it's pink. 531 00:47:12,720 --> 00:47:17,599 Could it be that to be pink up here brings something good? 532 00:47:17,600 --> 00:47:18,960 We don't know. 533 00:47:20,120 --> 00:47:24,879 Maybe this was once spread widely over the island, 534 00:47:24,880 --> 00:47:28,479 and this is just the relic population that's left. 535 00:47:28,480 --> 00:47:30,280 Again, we don't know. 536 00:47:31,680 --> 00:47:32,880 Goodbye. 537 00:47:34,320 --> 00:47:37,599 But there's one thing that is quite certain, 538 00:47:37,600 --> 00:47:41,599 and that is that there's a lot we have yet to learn about the 539 00:47:41,600 --> 00:47:46,079 enchanted islands, and about the animals that have evolved here. 540 00:47:46,080 --> 00:47:51,240 And of one thing, I have no doubt - Charles Darwin would be delighted. 541 00:47:57,600 --> 00:47:59,999 In just a few million years, 542 00:48:00,000 --> 00:48:03,440 this empty expanse of ocean was transformed. 543 00:48:04,920 --> 00:48:09,400 A series of volcanoes broke the surface and built the islands. 544 00:48:17,920 --> 00:48:22,080 Against heavy odds, a few species managed to reach them. 545 00:48:29,880 --> 00:48:31,840 They adapted to what they found... 546 00:48:38,600 --> 00:48:42,640 ...and so evolved into a multitude of new species. 547 00:49:00,240 --> 00:49:05,000 Each new discovery we make gives Darwin's theory a greater relevance. 548 00:49:11,960 --> 00:49:15,279 But beyond the strange plants and bizarre animals, 549 00:49:15,280 --> 00:49:17,520 there is a greater significance. 550 00:49:19,760 --> 00:49:21,919 What we've learned here has given us 551 00:49:21,920 --> 00:49:24,280 a greater understanding of our planet. 552 00:49:25,640 --> 00:49:29,879 This small group of islands has revealed in microcosm 553 00:49:29,880 --> 00:49:34,040 the processes that have shaped all life on Earth. 554 00:49:41,320 --> 00:49:43,440 AccessibleCustomerService@sky.uk 48039

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