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Hidden away in the vastness of the
Pacific, and undiscovered by men
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until only a few centuries ago, lies
a group of strange volcanic islands.
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00:00:28,240 --> 00:00:33,280
Each is a crucible where evolution
proceeds at extraordinary speed.
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00:00:36,800 --> 00:00:37,960
Galapagos.
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00:00:55,160 --> 00:00:58,920
Each island contains its own unique
community.
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00:01:03,040 --> 00:01:06,479
The discovery of these creatures
inspired an idea
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00:01:06,480 --> 00:01:09,839
that changed our
understanding of life on Earth...
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Evolution.
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00:01:21,400 --> 00:01:24,719
And today, scientists on Galapagos
are continuing to make
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discoveries that shed
light on that crucial process
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00:01:28,000 --> 00:01:31,399
and have revealed that human
beings can be just as powerful
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a driving force for change as any
other factor.
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Something here was the catalyst that
produced the most spectacular
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00:01:57,000 --> 00:02:01,399
explosion of biological
diversity in the world.
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00:02:01,400 --> 00:02:04,079
It's not just the number of species
that appeared,
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00:02:04,080 --> 00:02:08,479
but the rate at which they did so,
and the result is so extraordinary,
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it inspired the most important of
all biological theories -
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00:02:11,600 --> 00:02:15,679
Charles Darwin's evolution by
natural selection.
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00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:19,439
And now, 200 years later,
we're beginning to understand
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the deep-lying forces that produced
this biological wonderland.
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00:02:40,280 --> 00:02:43,080
One of those factors is isolation.
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00:02:53,840 --> 00:02:57,799
A part of Isabela Island,
the largest of the 16 in the
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00:02:57,800 --> 00:03:02,120
archipelago, is so difficult to
get to, it's hardly ever visited.
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Wolf Volcano.
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Its giant crater lies
exactly on the Equator,
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and is encircled
internally by steep cliffs.
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And on its flanks,
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evidence was discovered
of a catastrophe that might,
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paradoxically, eventually lead to
the creation of a new species.
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This flow of recently solidified
lava
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has created an impassable barrier
100 metres wide,
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right through the vegetation.
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The fresh lava is razor-sharp,
and almost impossible to cross.
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On it lie bones.
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00:03:59,600 --> 00:04:03,960
Bleached white by the baking sun,
they're those of giant tortoises.
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00:04:12,640 --> 00:04:17,400
Some animals that got stuck
here are still clinging to life.
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00:04:23,000 --> 00:04:24,720
Tortoises are tough.
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00:04:26,480 --> 00:04:29,840
They can survive for months
without any food or water.
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00:04:31,080 --> 00:04:34,479
And that worsened their fate -
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00:04:34,480 --> 00:04:36,320
it will take them months to die.
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00:04:45,280 --> 00:04:50,319
Why so many tortoises tried to cross
the lava barrier, nobody knows.
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00:04:50,320 --> 00:04:55,439
What drove them to keep attempting
this impossible journey?
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Perhaps they were desperately
trying to rejoin
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00:04:57,880 --> 00:04:59,400
other members of their group.
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00:05:02,440 --> 00:05:05,400
Their deaths, however,
are significant.
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They illustrate a principle that
applies to the whole of nature.
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It's not unique to the Galapagos,
but it's because of the Galapagos
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that we first came to understand it.
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00:05:21,120 --> 00:05:24,679
This tragic scene,
filmed for the first time,
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00:05:24,680 --> 00:05:29,400
may provide a clue as to how a new
species may start to evolve.
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00:05:33,600 --> 00:05:37,479
The lava flow created an impassable
physical barrier
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across the tortoises' territory,
dividing it into two.
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So two tortoise populations that
were once one must now live apart.
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If there is any significant
difference,
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now or in the future,
between their two territories,
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the tortoises may eventually become
two different species.
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00:06:10,640 --> 00:06:14,960
Animals and plants are evolving
throughout the natural world.
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But it was the strange creatures
of Galapagos that first revealed
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how that happens.
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00:06:23,440 --> 00:06:28,840
Nearly 200 years ago, the islands
were visited by a young naturalist.
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On September 16th 1835,
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HMS Beagle arrived in the Galapagos
Islands,
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and the 26-year-old Charles Darwin
stepped ashore to explore.
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At the time,
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very little was known about the
natural history of the islands.
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00:06:51,800 --> 00:06:56,080
Darwin, initially, was
fascinated by its geology.
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But it was the animals that gave him
his historic insight.
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Darwin was only on these
islands for five weeks.
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But in that short time,
there were things he saw
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and conversations
he had which stuck in his mind.
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00:07:19,160 --> 00:07:23,599
For example, the British
vice-governor of Floreana Island
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said that he could tell which island
a giant tortoise came from
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simply by the shape of its shell.
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00:07:34,720 --> 00:07:38,000
He pondered on the vice-governor's
casual remark.
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Why were populations of tortoises
on separate islands
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all slightly
different from one another?
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He set about making a collection of
animals and plants
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from all the islands he visited.
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00:08:05,760 --> 00:08:09,359
Although it was the tortoises that
first alerted Darwin
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00:08:09,360 --> 00:08:13,359
to the differences between animals
on different islands,
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00:08:13,360 --> 00:08:17,199
it was his collection of these
undramatic little birds,
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the finches, which provided him
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00:08:19,440 --> 00:08:23,240
with the most substantial
evidence for his great theory.
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00:08:26,200 --> 00:08:29,399
We now know that the ancestral
Galapagos finches
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00:08:29,400 --> 00:08:32,160
arrived in these
islands about 2 million years ago.
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00:08:33,480 --> 00:08:38,559
Since then, they have diversified
into a number of different species.
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00:08:38,560 --> 00:08:40,599
Today, there are 13 of them,
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00:08:40,600 --> 00:08:43,839
distributed throughout the
archipelago.
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Each has its own special talents.
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00:08:47,680 --> 00:08:50,959
The woodpecker finch has discovered
how to use a tool
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00:08:50,960 --> 00:08:54,720
to winkle grubs out of their burrows
in the branches of trees.
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00:09:00,320 --> 00:09:05,040
The vampire finch has learned how to
extract blood from sitting birds.
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00:09:11,080 --> 00:09:14,399
Darwin, when he returned to England,
brought back with him
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a wide variety of specimens
of all kinds,
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and he spent years
studying his collections.
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00:09:25,360 --> 00:09:28,679
He had a range of finches
from several of the islands,
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and he noticed one particular
way in which they differed.
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They had beaks of different sizes.
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Why?
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An idea grew in his mind.
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It would also apply to tortoises -
maybe to all animals and plants,
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wherever they occurred.
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Painstakingly, meticulously,
he started to accumulate
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00:10:03,200 --> 00:10:06,879
evidence from all over the world to
support his idea,
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00:10:06,880 --> 00:10:10,439
and he called the process that
produced new species
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"evolution by natural selection."
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00:10:18,000 --> 00:10:21,399
And nowhere is its workings
more vividly evident
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00:10:21,400 --> 00:10:24,720
than here where it first occurred
to him in the Galapagos.
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He realised why it was
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that there were several species of
giant tortoises.
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00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:39,199
That original species probably had
a high-domed shell, like this one,
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and that's very useful on
well-watered islands like this,
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where you have to barge your way
through the vegetation.
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00:10:46,040 --> 00:10:49,600
But on other islands,
there are other problems.
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00:10:58,040 --> 00:11:02,240
In the southeast corner of the
archipelago lies Espanola Island.
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00:11:09,240 --> 00:11:13,760
Here, there is virtually no edible
vegetation at all.
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00:11:15,400 --> 00:11:20,000
Except, that is, for this prickly
pear cactus, opuntia.
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00:11:21,200 --> 00:11:24,880
But this species of opuntia
is very tall.
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00:11:26,040 --> 00:11:28,639
And it has a tough, woody trunk.
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00:11:28,640 --> 00:11:30,559
The only parts worth eating
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are the fleshy leaves and flowers
at the top.
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Any giant tortoise that could
reach them could get a meal.
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00:11:40,280 --> 00:11:44,600
Tortoises with low, round fronts
to their shells couldn't do that.
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00:11:48,080 --> 00:11:50,639
But those with
a peak at the front of their shell,
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00:11:50,640 --> 00:11:53,799
and long necks,
could just manage it.
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So they were the ones that survived
and produced young.
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00:12:02,840 --> 00:12:06,639
Over many thousands of generations
and millions of years,
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00:12:06,640 --> 00:12:09,279
the shell shape of the Espanola
tortoise
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00:12:09,280 --> 00:12:11,800
became more and more
exaggerated.
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00:12:16,040 --> 00:12:20,360
Now, the peak at the front of the
shell is shaped like a saddle.
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00:12:27,560 --> 00:12:30,359
Such a change didn't happen
just on Espanola -
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different islands
had their own versions.
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Eventually, there were 15 different
species on the islands,
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00:12:39,480 --> 00:12:41,880
all descended from a single founder.
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00:12:45,160 --> 00:12:50,279
But why should the environments
of the islands be so different?
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00:12:50,280 --> 00:12:54,759
Well, a hint of that reason may
come from looking at films
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I shot right here, back in 1978.
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00:12:58,640 --> 00:13:02,119
In these
programmes, we're going to survey
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00:13:02,120 --> 00:13:05,519
the immeasurable number of animals
that have been produced
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00:13:05,520 --> 00:13:09,479
by natural selection, and look
at them not as isolated oddities...
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00:13:09,480 --> 00:13:15,719
That image of me, shot 30 years ago,
indicates something extraordinary.
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In that time, the rock on which
I was sitting has moved its position
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00:13:21,480 --> 00:13:27,239
by about a metre from where I was
then to where I am now.
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In fact, the whole of this island
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is drifting across the surface of
the globe
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at a rate of about three
centimetres a year,
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00:13:35,680 --> 00:13:38,999
roughly the rate at which
my fingernails grow.
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00:13:39,000 --> 00:13:42,999
That may not sound much, but in
the 3 million odd years
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since this island emerged above the
surface of the ocean,
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00:13:47,440 --> 00:13:53,000
it has drifted in a south-easterly
direction by about 60 miles.
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00:13:57,360 --> 00:14:01,119
Movements in the Earth's
crust are the key to understanding
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00:14:01,120 --> 00:14:04,440
the archipelago's extraordinary
evolutionary history.
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00:14:05,880 --> 00:14:09,599
A giant hotspot,
rising from the Earth's molten core,
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00:14:09,600 --> 00:14:13,800
began to build the Galapagos
4 million years ago.
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But, as the island drifted
away from it,
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00:14:28,640 --> 00:14:31,920
other volcanoes replaced it,
one after the other.
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00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:39,440
Each was built from an accumulation
of ash and lava.
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00:14:40,840 --> 00:14:45,120
But then, as each moved away,
eruptions ceased.
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00:14:48,800 --> 00:14:51,720
So a group of islands appeared,
one after the other.
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00:15:05,120 --> 00:15:07,919
The islands were separated from
one another by water,
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so their populations
can't, for the most part, mix.
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But they're just close
enough for an occasional animal
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to float across and
so seed a newly emerging island.
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00:15:21,600 --> 00:15:24,239
Because the islands
are of different ages,
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they contain between them a great
variety of environments.
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00:15:30,720 --> 00:15:34,520
And each has moulded
its inhabitants in its own way.
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00:15:37,520 --> 00:15:40,880
That is why their animals are
so diverse.
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00:15:48,480 --> 00:15:52,120
Each is a separate
evolutionary community.
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00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:10,280
Darwin had noticed
some of the clearest differences.
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00:16:14,040 --> 00:16:17,320
But there are many others
that are less obvious.
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00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:21,639
An isolated population of animals
can change
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00:16:21,640 --> 00:16:25,040
not only in their anatomy,
but in their behaviour.
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Little lizards like this are found
throughout the archipelago.
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Each island has its own
distinct species.
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00:16:48,120 --> 00:16:50,999
And they differ not so much
in the way they look
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as the way they behave.
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This is a lava lizard.
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00:17:04,840 --> 00:17:08,519
There are lots of them
on the rocks around here.
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00:17:08,520 --> 00:17:11,479
And in the breeding season,
which is now,
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00:17:11,480 --> 00:17:15,959
the males are competing with one
another,
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00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:19,359
both for territory and for females.
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00:17:19,360 --> 00:17:24,359
And the way they do so is with
press-ups.
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Watch.
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00:17:33,760 --> 00:17:38,679
Actually, this is a model that is
used by scientists
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00:17:38,680 --> 00:17:43,279
to investigate the way in which
these lizards communicate
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00:17:43,280 --> 00:17:44,719
with one another.
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Let's see how he gets on.
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And there's a response.
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00:18:01,440 --> 00:18:06,159
These press-ups vary, both
in the number and the intensity,
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00:18:06,160 --> 00:18:07,720
the speed at which they do it...
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00:18:10,000 --> 00:18:11,840
...and how high they bob their heads.
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00:18:15,160 --> 00:18:20,079
The interesting thing is that the
responses vary
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00:18:20,080 --> 00:18:22,559
from species to species.
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00:18:22,560 --> 00:18:28,480
In other words, each species
has its own language of gestures.
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00:18:32,880 --> 00:18:35,199
There are slight physical
differences
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00:18:35,200 --> 00:18:38,520
between the species of
lava lizard on different islands.
197
00:18:41,080 --> 00:18:44,399
But now, because they have
developed different gestures,
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00:18:44,400 --> 00:18:47,000
they can't interbreed, even if
they meet.
199
00:18:48,800 --> 00:18:51,240
They're separated by a language
barrier.
200
00:19:00,040 --> 00:19:03,479
New technology
now enables scientists
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00:19:03,480 --> 00:19:06,199
to investigate
the workings of evolution
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00:19:06,200 --> 00:19:09,680
in ways that Darwin could hardly
have ever imagined.
203
00:19:15,400 --> 00:19:19,199
X-rays are being used
to work out what's happening
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00:19:19,200 --> 00:19:22,359
to one of the least impressive
animals on the island -
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00:19:22,360 --> 00:19:24,400
a tiny land snail.
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00:19:28,400 --> 00:19:30,399
It's been known for a long time
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00:19:30,400 --> 00:19:32,879
that there are many different
snail species
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00:19:32,880 --> 00:19:34,880
all closely related.
209
00:19:39,000 --> 00:19:42,199
But a recent study of their shells
using X-rays
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00:19:42,200 --> 00:19:45,120
has demonstrated
just how diverse they have become.
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00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:53,039
The length of the shell compared
to the diameter of the tube inside
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00:19:53,040 --> 00:19:55,960
is marginally different
in different populations.
213
00:19:58,440 --> 00:20:02,480
It's certainly different enough
to define them as different species.
214
00:20:04,080 --> 00:20:07,039
And there is an extraordinarily
large number of them
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00:20:07,040 --> 00:20:08,679
throughout the islands
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00:20:08,680 --> 00:20:11,880
with what seem to be
very complex interrelationships.
217
00:20:14,200 --> 00:20:16,599
In fact,
there are more species of them
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00:20:16,600 --> 00:20:19,320
than any other kind of animal
on the islands.
219
00:20:20,840 --> 00:20:24,760
Even one small island may
contain several different species.
220
00:20:26,280 --> 00:20:28,280
But why?
221
00:20:29,400 --> 00:20:31,959
It's all to do
with the different microclimates
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00:20:31,960 --> 00:20:34,800
that occur even within a single
small island.
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00:20:38,400 --> 00:20:41,440
Black lava rock has one species...
224
00:20:42,680 --> 00:20:46,000
...and sandy beaches close by
a very different one.
225
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:51,719
A dark cave has one sort...
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00:20:51,720 --> 00:20:56,120
and a leafy forest growing
around its mouth, yet another kind.
227
00:20:57,520 --> 00:21:00,519
And it seems to be connected
with humidity.
228
00:21:00,520 --> 00:21:05,000
At the one extreme,
there are these with a wide mouth.
229
00:21:06,040 --> 00:21:09,759
They come from relatively
well-watered islands.
230
00:21:09,760 --> 00:21:11,999
And a wide mouth like that
has a body
231
00:21:12,000 --> 00:21:15,560
which produces
a roughly globular shell.
232
00:21:16,800 --> 00:21:18,599
But on dry islands,
233
00:21:18,600 --> 00:21:22,159
the mouth has to be very small
to prevent evaporation
234
00:21:22,160 --> 00:21:25,720
and that produces
a long, conical shape.
235
00:21:26,960 --> 00:21:29,519
So, Galapagos' new species
236
00:21:29,520 --> 00:21:32,559
range from the subtly different,
like snails,
237
00:21:32,560 --> 00:21:35,160
to the obvious,
like the marine iguanas.
238
00:21:37,440 --> 00:21:40,599
In other parts of the world,
evolution usually proceeds
239
00:21:40,600 --> 00:21:42,639
in a slow, gradual way.
240
00:21:42,640 --> 00:21:47,000
It can take millions of years
for new species to appear.
241
00:21:48,840 --> 00:21:53,320
But in Galapagos it's been happening
in an evolutionary blink of an eye.
242
00:21:59,680 --> 00:22:01,879
Galapagos, for its size,
243
00:22:01,880 --> 00:22:04,960
has more unique species than
anywhere else on Earth.
244
00:22:06,880 --> 00:22:08,839
And all have
appeared in the islands'
245
00:22:08,840 --> 00:22:10,600
comparatively short history.
246
00:22:17,120 --> 00:22:20,120
And that raises another
intriguing question.
247
00:22:22,160 --> 00:22:25,400
Why did such a great number
appear so quickly?
248
00:22:28,120 --> 00:22:31,920
The answer is to do
with the absence of some animals.
249
00:22:37,400 --> 00:22:38,760
Predators.
250
00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:42,640
The few that are here are all
very small.
251
00:22:46,080 --> 00:22:50,960
This is one of the most lethal -
scolopendra, a centipede.
252
00:22:52,800 --> 00:22:55,359
It roams the undergrowth
searching for prey,
253
00:22:55,360 --> 00:22:57,399
which it kills by injecting venom
254
00:22:57,400 --> 00:23:00,000
from the sharp claws
on its front legs.
255
00:23:01,400 --> 00:23:04,199
But it's only 30cm long,
256
00:23:04,200 --> 00:23:06,480
so its victims are mostly tiny.
257
00:23:09,480 --> 00:23:12,800
Bigger animals, like mockingbirds,
can easily subdue one.
258
00:23:17,000 --> 00:23:19,400
They even feed centipedes
to their chicks.
259
00:23:27,600 --> 00:23:31,279
The greatest concentration of
predators in the whole archipelago
260
00:23:31,280 --> 00:23:34,080
is found on the rocky island of
Fernandina.
261
00:23:36,000 --> 00:23:39,239
But they too, of their kind,
are rather small
262
00:23:39,240 --> 00:23:41,440
and comparatively ineffectual.
263
00:23:43,000 --> 00:23:45,280
Snakes.
264
00:23:46,280 --> 00:23:48,320
The Galapagos racer.
265
00:23:51,600 --> 00:23:55,480
They search for prey
in the colonies of marine iguanas.
266
00:23:59,040 --> 00:24:02,079
But all they can manage to do is to
pick off the young,
267
00:24:02,080 --> 00:24:04,199
the weak and the dying.
268
00:24:04,200 --> 00:24:06,040
And even that they find quite
difficult.
269
00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:12,320
They hunt in the rocks
around the fringes of the colony.
270
00:24:15,160 --> 00:24:18,319
They have to use a combination
of both venom and constriction
271
00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:19,400
to make a kill.
272
00:24:25,960 --> 00:24:28,919
And even then,
because they're small snakes,
273
00:24:28,920 --> 00:24:31,800
it may take more than one to
overcome a victim.
274
00:24:40,000 --> 00:24:43,159
And then there's a tug of war
between the winners to settle
275
00:24:43,160 --> 00:24:44,680
who has the prize.
276
00:24:55,600 --> 00:25:00,000
There are other predators that
prey on the iguanas from the air.
277
00:25:04,680 --> 00:25:06,160
The Galapagos hawk.
278
00:25:15,320 --> 00:25:19,079
But even this hunter is seldom
powerful enough to subdue
279
00:25:19,080 --> 00:25:20,280
a big male.
280
00:25:22,040 --> 00:25:26,480
It usually waits until it finds one
that is weak or encumbered.
281
00:25:41,360 --> 00:25:44,760
A pregnant female, trying to find
a place to lay her eggs.
282
00:25:59,360 --> 00:26:02,119
And there are not many hawks here.
283
00:26:02,120 --> 00:26:04,839
Only 150 mated pairs,
284
00:26:04,840 --> 00:26:08,080
because there's only a limited
number of nesting sites.
285
00:26:10,280 --> 00:26:13,999
There are so few birds that they
make very little impact
286
00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:15,800
on the iguana population.
287
00:26:18,160 --> 00:26:21,680
So why are there no larger
predators on Galapagos?
288
00:26:23,680 --> 00:26:26,599
Most of the Galapagos animals
came from the rainforests
289
00:26:26,600 --> 00:26:29,239
of South America, 600 miles away.
290
00:26:31,120 --> 00:26:34,280
There are plenty of big
predators in these forests.
291
00:26:43,320 --> 00:26:46,679
Reptiles got to Galapagos
by floating across the ocean
292
00:26:46,680 --> 00:26:48,160
on rafts of vegetation.
293
00:26:52,360 --> 00:26:55,759
Only hardy animals like the iguanas
and tortoises
294
00:26:55,760 --> 00:26:57,920
could make that 600 mile voyage.
295
00:27:03,640 --> 00:27:06,839
The great predators of the jungles,
however, are mammals -
296
00:27:06,840 --> 00:27:10,760
big, fast, and warm-blooded,
like jaguars.
297
00:27:27,840 --> 00:27:31,439
If any of them had ever been carried
away on a raft of vegetation,
298
00:27:31,440 --> 00:27:35,040
they would have perished out on the
open ocean within a few days.
299
00:27:37,000 --> 00:27:40,439
So now, while there are many
kinds of herbivorous reptiles
300
00:27:40,440 --> 00:27:41,640
in the Galapagos...
301
00:27:42,880 --> 00:27:45,840
...there are no large predatory
mammals of any kind.
302
00:27:47,320 --> 00:27:51,640
And this has had a profound effect
on the animals that did get here.
303
00:27:53,400 --> 00:27:57,080
It's something noticed by every
visitor who comes to the islands.
304
00:28:00,720 --> 00:28:04,120
All the animals here
are amazingly tame.
305
00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:12,040
Even the little finches are happy to
bathe within inches of a stranger.
306
00:28:15,640 --> 00:28:20,359
The lack of predators may have a
surprisingly widespread effect.
307
00:28:20,360 --> 00:28:23,559
It's not just that animals are not
frightened of strangers,
308
00:28:23,560 --> 00:28:26,279
the so-called "island tameness",
309
00:28:26,280 --> 00:28:30,759
but that time that would be spent
hiding from attackers
310
00:28:30,760 --> 00:28:35,399
can now be used to find food, find
mates and raise young,
311
00:28:35,400 --> 00:28:40,280
and so produce more young, which
hastens the progress of evolution.
312
00:28:46,760 --> 00:28:49,719
There is no more impressive
example of that
313
00:28:49,720 --> 00:28:51,680
than Fernandina's iguana colony.
314
00:28:53,640 --> 00:28:55,839
With no significant
predators around,
315
00:28:55,840 --> 00:28:58,720
these herbivores produce
lots of young.
316
00:29:01,080 --> 00:29:04,919
So many, that their problem is not
how to defend themselves,
317
00:29:04,920 --> 00:29:08,240
but how to find enough food to
support their great numbers.
318
00:29:09,440 --> 00:29:12,039
So they ventured into the sea
itself,
319
00:29:12,040 --> 00:29:15,120
to graze seaweed on the sea floor.
320
00:29:17,280 --> 00:29:21,319
And although swimming in the cold
sea cools them uncomfortably,
321
00:29:21,320 --> 00:29:23,039
with no predators around,
322
00:29:23,040 --> 00:29:26,160
they can soon put that
right by stretching out in the sun.
323
00:29:35,120 --> 00:29:38,199
The lack of big predators has
had an effect
324
00:29:38,200 --> 00:29:40,879
on all the animals of
the Galapagos.
325
00:29:40,880 --> 00:29:45,519
They reproduce freely,
so populations increase rapidly.
326
00:29:45,520 --> 00:29:48,520
And so, consequently,
does evolutionary change.
327
00:30:17,400 --> 00:30:20,400
But island tameness has dangers.
328
00:30:22,480 --> 00:30:24,919
If a major predator does appear,
329
00:30:24,920 --> 00:30:28,560
then wildlife will be ill-equipped
to defend itself.
330
00:30:36,120 --> 00:30:37,839
And one did.
331
00:30:37,840 --> 00:30:39,959
In the year 1535,
332
00:30:39,960 --> 00:30:43,800
the most successful predatory
animal of all arrived...
333
00:30:46,080 --> 00:30:47,360
Man.
334
00:30:52,160 --> 00:30:54,119
By the beginning of the 17th
century,
335
00:30:54,120 --> 00:30:57,679
the islands had become
a haven for pirates.
336
00:30:57,680 --> 00:30:59,439
By the 19th century,
337
00:30:59,440 --> 00:31:03,319
whalers and merchantmen were calling
here regularly,
338
00:31:03,320 --> 00:31:06,640
and all these ships
had a disastrous effect.
339
00:31:09,120 --> 00:31:12,839
There is little or no fresh
water on these islands,
340
00:31:12,840 --> 00:31:16,519
but they have a much rarer resource.
341
00:31:16,520 --> 00:31:21,999
Giant tortoises can survive without
food or water for very long periods,
342
00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:25,759
so ships could come here,
collect the tortoises,
343
00:31:25,760 --> 00:31:29,079
stow them in the hold,
and then after weeks at sea,
344
00:31:29,080 --> 00:31:32,880
bring one out, butcher it,
and have a meal of fresh meat.
345
00:31:38,920 --> 00:31:42,799
Slow, lumbering, and with no
way of defending themselves,
346
00:31:42,800 --> 00:31:45,160
the tortoises were easy victims.
347
00:31:47,400 --> 00:31:49,720
The population was decimated.
348
00:31:51,400 --> 00:31:53,959
Between the 16th and 20th centuries,
349
00:31:53,960 --> 00:31:57,200
more than 100,000 were taken away
and slaughtered.
350
00:31:59,000 --> 00:32:01,040
And the ships brought other dangers.
351
00:32:03,000 --> 00:32:04,400
Rats.
352
00:32:07,800 --> 00:32:10,320
They feasted on the tortoises' eggs.
353
00:32:18,400 --> 00:32:23,559
On the island of Pinzon, rats
consume nearly every single egg,
354
00:32:23,560 --> 00:32:26,960
leaving the tortoise population
on the brink of extinction.
355
00:32:28,680 --> 00:32:33,040
But another island lost its
tortoise population altogether.
356
00:32:34,800 --> 00:32:36,959
Pinta, located on the shipping route
357
00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:39,759
around the northern fringe of the
archipelago,
358
00:32:39,760 --> 00:32:43,919
was a favourite stopover for ships
and their hungry crews.
359
00:32:43,920 --> 00:32:47,519
And the unique Pinta tortoise was
presumed extinct
360
00:32:47,520 --> 00:32:49,720
by the early 20th century.
361
00:32:53,600 --> 00:32:59,319
But in 1972, an amazing discovery
was made and filmed.
362
00:32:59,320 --> 00:33:03,320
A living male Pinta tortoise was
discovered in the undergrowth.
363
00:33:04,560 --> 00:33:08,359
He was taken off to a protected
enclosure on the main island,
364
00:33:08,360 --> 00:33:10,720
to live out his days in comfort
and safety.
365
00:33:13,520 --> 00:33:17,319
Here, he became
an international celebrity,
366
00:33:17,320 --> 00:33:20,040
and he was given a name to
reflect his state -
367
00:33:22,000 --> 00:33:23,240
Lonesome George.
368
00:33:26,480 --> 00:33:28,879
He's about 80 years old,
369
00:33:28,880 --> 00:33:32,119
and he's getting a bit
creaky in his joints...
370
00:33:32,120 --> 00:33:34,920
As, indeed, am I.
371
00:33:36,280 --> 00:33:42,479
He is arguably the rarest
animal in the world -
372
00:33:42,480 --> 00:33:45,759
certainly, there can be none rarer,
373
00:33:45,760 --> 00:33:48,959
for he is the last of his kind.
374
00:33:48,960 --> 00:33:53,719
His female died a long,
long time ago.
375
00:33:53,720 --> 00:34:00,559
When he dies, the Pinta species of
Galapagos tortoise will be extinct.
376
00:34:00,560 --> 00:34:05,079
But he is a very important animal.
377
00:34:05,080 --> 00:34:08,399
Probably more than any other single
creature,
378
00:34:08,400 --> 00:34:13,039
he's focused the attention
of the world on the fragility
379
00:34:13,040 --> 00:34:17,679
of our environment,
and he's stimulated science
380
00:34:17,680 --> 00:34:22,840
to look into whole new areas
of research here in the Galapagos.
381
00:34:27,720 --> 00:34:32,920
Just 14 days after we filmed
Lonesome, he died in his sleep.
382
00:34:35,800 --> 00:34:37,240
But he's not forgotten.
383
00:34:41,120 --> 00:34:45,079
Lonesome George's story, like
Darwin's fleeting but famous visit
384
00:34:45,080 --> 00:34:49,320
200 years ago, has attracted many
visitors to the islands.
385
00:35:01,040 --> 00:35:03,599
Today, the archipelago is the basis
386
00:35:03,600 --> 00:35:06,639
of a multi-million dollar
tourist industry.
387
00:35:06,640 --> 00:35:10,639
30,000 people live here,
in three small towns,
388
00:35:10,640 --> 00:35:14,719
and fleets of small boats take
visitors on carefully-planned trips
389
00:35:14,720 --> 00:35:16,560
to see the islands' main sights.
390
00:35:19,440 --> 00:35:22,319
It took animals and plants
millions of years
391
00:35:22,320 --> 00:35:24,640
to find and colonise the Galapagos.
392
00:35:25,600 --> 00:35:29,919
Now, new species of animals and
plants from the world's continents
393
00:35:29,920 --> 00:35:32,080
can get here in a matter of hours.
394
00:35:34,000 --> 00:35:37,119
And, having got here,
they're often inadvertently spread
395
00:35:37,120 --> 00:35:39,440
almost immediately
through the islands.
396
00:35:43,200 --> 00:35:45,519
Seeds of foreign plants hitch a ride
397
00:35:45,520 --> 00:35:48,720
on the air currents
generated by passing traffic.
398
00:35:51,360 --> 00:35:53,799
And the Galapagos' network of roads
399
00:35:53,800 --> 00:35:56,360
is now lined by foreign invaders.
400
00:35:59,000 --> 00:36:01,919
Among them,
the common European blackberry -
401
00:36:01,920 --> 00:36:04,799
a plant that can grow
a centimetre a day
402
00:36:04,800 --> 00:36:07,800
and create impenetrable
thickets four metres thick.
403
00:36:09,400 --> 00:36:11,799
They not only choke and kill
native plants,
404
00:36:11,800 --> 00:36:15,400
they even block the paths of large
animals such as the tortoises.
405
00:36:21,000 --> 00:36:24,839
Scientists are now trying to analyse
the impact of human beings
406
00:36:24,840 --> 00:36:27,440
on the course of evolution in the
islands.
407
00:36:31,640 --> 00:36:33,519
And, surprisingly perhaps,
408
00:36:33,520 --> 00:36:38,040
the finches that Darwin made famous
are still providing new insights.
409
00:36:46,200 --> 00:36:50,239
Biologist Andrew Hendry is looking
at how the finches' evolution
410
00:36:50,240 --> 00:36:53,120
may have been affected by human
settlements.
411
00:36:54,600 --> 00:36:56,759
When humans come into a new
location,
412
00:36:56,760 --> 00:36:59,999
essentially what
they do is change the environment,
413
00:37:00,000 --> 00:37:02,960
and that's changing selection that's
acting on the populations.
414
00:37:06,360 --> 00:37:12,159
Hendry is studying one particular
species - the medium ground finch.
415
00:37:12,160 --> 00:37:13,999
OK, yeah.
416
00:37:14,000 --> 00:37:17,759
Remarkably, he's found that this
finch, in its natural setting,
417
00:37:17,760 --> 00:37:20,880
is on the verge of dividing into two
separate species.
418
00:37:22,760 --> 00:37:25,480
The two are defined by the size
of their beaks.
419
00:37:26,520 --> 00:37:28,720
One is small, the other, large.
420
00:37:29,960 --> 00:37:32,279
The difference between them has been
caused
421
00:37:32,280 --> 00:37:34,040
by the types of food they eat.
422
00:37:35,120 --> 00:37:38,919
So, if you feed on some small seed,
you tend to have a small beak,
423
00:37:38,920 --> 00:37:42,279
and if you feed on large seed,
you tend to have a really big beak
424
00:37:42,280 --> 00:37:43,600
and you tend to have a hard bite.
425
00:37:45,720 --> 00:37:49,679
Remarkably, Hendry has found
that among medium ground finches
426
00:37:49,680 --> 00:37:54,239
that live near human beings, the
distinct big and small beak forms
427
00:37:54,240 --> 00:37:55,640
are getting fewer.
428
00:38:04,640 --> 00:38:09,320
It's as if the two variants are here
merging back into one.
429
00:38:13,960 --> 00:38:18,240
The presence of human beings has
stopped this finch from evolving.
430
00:38:21,640 --> 00:38:25,879
We found that they feed a lot
on human food, ranging from rice
431
00:38:25,880 --> 00:38:31,399
to fruit to grains to potato chips,
and feeding on those types
432
00:38:31,400 --> 00:38:34,959
of different foods, it doesn't
really seem to matter what your beak
433
00:38:34,960 --> 00:38:36,479
size is any more.
434
00:38:36,480 --> 00:38:38,519
So there isn't that pressure to have
435
00:38:38,520 --> 00:38:40,799
a small beak version
and a large beak version.
436
00:38:40,800 --> 00:38:44,119
And there's no selection against
those intermediate birds any more.
437
00:38:44,120 --> 00:38:46,239
There's plenty of foods
for them to eat.
438
00:38:46,240 --> 00:38:49,759
So it seems like humans have caused
a speciation reversal -
439
00:38:49,760 --> 00:38:53,000
they're fusing back together again
as a result of human influences.
440
00:39:00,160 --> 00:39:04,719
So, human beings can be just as much
a part of nature as the forces
441
00:39:04,720 --> 00:39:08,600
that first shaped these islands
and the organisms that live on them.
442
00:39:10,600 --> 00:39:15,760
But human beings can not only
destroy... they can conserve.
443
00:39:17,680 --> 00:39:22,639
In the 1970s, the tortoise
population reached an all-time low.
444
00:39:22,640 --> 00:39:25,160
There were only a few thousand
of them left.
445
00:39:27,000 --> 00:39:30,200
But now there's a major
breeding programme for them.
446
00:39:38,160 --> 00:39:41,440
The tortoise population today
is increasing.
447
00:39:43,280 --> 00:39:46,920
Once-threatened species have been
brought back from the brink.
448
00:39:55,120 --> 00:39:59,599
And scientists are discovering
just how important and influential
449
00:39:59,600 --> 00:40:02,000
this reintroduction programme
might be.
450
00:40:04,000 --> 00:40:07,679
On Alcedo Volcano, home for the
largest population
451
00:40:07,680 --> 00:40:11,359
of free-roaming giant tortoises,
a study has shown
452
00:40:11,360 --> 00:40:15,560
that they're crucial to the health
of all the surrounding wildlife.
453
00:40:17,200 --> 00:40:21,239
Today, there are some 15,000
tortoises on the Galapagos
454
00:40:21,240 --> 00:40:24,720
and they're an essential
element in the islands' ecosystem.
455
00:40:27,200 --> 00:40:31,040
One study in particular has shown
just how important they are.
456
00:40:32,440 --> 00:40:38,200
Biologist Steve Blake uses satellite
tags to track their movements.
457
00:40:41,600 --> 00:40:44,919
They reveal, to most people's
great surprise,
458
00:40:44,920 --> 00:40:48,639
that the tortoises migrate over huge
distances,
459
00:40:48,640 --> 00:40:52,439
from the depths of the crater,
right up to the rim.
460
00:40:52,440 --> 00:40:53,879
It's just phenomenal.
461
00:40:53,880 --> 00:40:59,319
Why would a 600lb reptile
migrate from sea level
462
00:40:59,320 --> 00:41:02,000
to up to 1,000 metres on
some islands?
463
00:41:04,520 --> 00:41:07,760
From the air, the routes the
tortoises take are clearly visible.
464
00:41:14,880 --> 00:41:18,320
And they use the same highways,
year after year.
465
00:41:24,880 --> 00:41:29,439
One of the fundamental drivers
of the migration seems to be food.
466
00:41:29,440 --> 00:41:32,239
Tortoises tend to come to
the highlands
467
00:41:32,240 --> 00:41:34,159
at the coolest time of year.
468
00:41:34,160 --> 00:41:37,319
Up in the highlands, they can feed
on a year-round,
469
00:41:37,320 --> 00:41:38,879
low-quality food source.
470
00:41:38,880 --> 00:41:42,399
But then when the rains kick in,
the lowlands tend to green up,
471
00:41:42,400 --> 00:41:45,520
and the tortoises go down there,
probably to fatten up.
472
00:41:48,240 --> 00:41:51,639
But Blake's studies reveal much
more about the tortoises
473
00:41:51,640 --> 00:41:53,040
than just where they go.
474
00:41:54,120 --> 00:41:57,799
They demonstrate the extraordinary
effect that tortoises have
475
00:41:57,800 --> 00:41:59,840
on their surrounding environment.
476
00:42:05,000 --> 00:42:10,240
They create special conditions that
suit all kinds of other animals.
477
00:42:11,880 --> 00:42:14,160
They shape and prune the landscape.
478
00:42:15,200 --> 00:42:19,359
They disperse seeds,
trample down the undergrowth,
479
00:42:19,360 --> 00:42:21,800
and trim the lowest
branches of the bushes.
480
00:42:23,120 --> 00:42:27,239
And all that allows seeds to
germinate.
481
00:42:27,240 --> 00:42:31,520
It disturbs insects, so that they
can be gathered by hungry predators.
482
00:42:33,520 --> 00:42:38,160
Their dung is also crucial to the
survival of many other creatures.
483
00:42:40,400 --> 00:42:42,479
Beetles lay their eggs in it,
484
00:42:42,480 --> 00:42:46,240
and their larvae grow fat on the
nutriment that it still contains.
485
00:42:50,200 --> 00:42:53,439
Tortoises are definitely
the megafauna of the islands.
486
00:42:53,440 --> 00:42:56,479
They're like the elephants
of Galapagos.
487
00:42:56,480 --> 00:42:59,759
They're out there in large numbers,
they've got big bodies,
488
00:42:59,760 --> 00:43:04,439
they're creating myriad
microhabitats for other species.
489
00:43:04,440 --> 00:43:06,839
They truly are the gardeners
of Galapagos.
490
00:43:06,840 --> 00:43:11,560
That's probably the best way
to sum up their ecological role.
491
00:43:17,800 --> 00:43:20,119
The implications are very
important -
492
00:43:20,120 --> 00:43:23,039
they suggest that the
reintroduction of tortoises
493
00:43:23,040 --> 00:43:26,479
to islands where their numbers have
been seriously reduced
494
00:43:26,480 --> 00:43:29,840
could restore the richness of the
whole environment.
495
00:43:31,760 --> 00:43:34,799
We have the chance to bring back
the full glory
496
00:43:34,800 --> 00:43:37,280
of these fragile ecosystems.
497
00:43:48,200 --> 00:43:52,159
Today, unlike many other tropical
islands elsewhere,
498
00:43:52,160 --> 00:43:57,520
95% of Galapagos' biodiversity
still survives.
499
00:43:59,400 --> 00:44:00,520
Just.
500
00:44:06,760 --> 00:44:12,160
And, amazingly, new species are
still being discovered.
501
00:44:17,400 --> 00:44:21,839
One was found just 35 miles
north of Alcedo,
502
00:44:21,840 --> 00:44:25,640
on the giant, little-visited
volcano, Wolf.
503
00:44:34,800 --> 00:44:37,639
To get to Wolf,
you really need a helicopter.
504
00:44:37,640 --> 00:44:39,959
It's one of the most hostile and
least-explored parts
505
00:44:39,960 --> 00:44:41,440
of the whole archipelago.
506
00:44:43,960 --> 00:44:47,159
There had been rumours of
something strange
507
00:44:47,160 --> 00:44:49,960
living up on these
remote, high slopes.
508
00:44:55,760 --> 00:44:58,279
Something that lived in burrows,
509
00:44:58,280 --> 00:45:00,960
and only emerged every now
and then to feed.
510
00:45:11,800 --> 00:45:14,680
A scientific team went up to
investigate.
511
00:45:34,400 --> 00:45:37,280
What they discovered
astonished everybody.
512
00:45:40,440 --> 00:45:43,800
A completely new and unknown species
of reptile.
513
00:45:47,680 --> 00:45:49,520
A pink iguana.
514
00:45:55,760 --> 00:45:58,719
Until now, it was thought that the
Galapagos possessed
515
00:45:58,720 --> 00:46:00,600
only three species of iguana.
516
00:46:03,400 --> 00:46:06,440
The black marine iguana,
that lives on the seashore.
517
00:46:07,720 --> 00:46:10,799
And two species of yellow iguana
that live inland,
518
00:46:10,800 --> 00:46:13,440
feeding on cacti
and other vegetation.
519
00:46:17,080 --> 00:46:20,559
This land iguana is certainly
the most closely related
520
00:46:20,560 --> 00:46:22,400
to the newly discovered one.
521
00:46:25,080 --> 00:46:28,519
Genetic studies of the 100 or
so individuals that make up this
522
00:46:28,520 --> 00:46:32,999
tiny population have shown that it
diverged from its land iguana
523
00:46:33,000 --> 00:46:35,640
cousins more than
5 million years ago.
524
00:46:37,200 --> 00:46:41,679
So, amazingly, it has been here
just as long as the other two,
525
00:46:41,680 --> 00:46:44,920
but has remained unknown to science
until now.
526
00:46:47,800 --> 00:46:49,799
The discovery also means
527
00:46:49,800 --> 00:46:54,200
that it is even older than
Wolf Volcano, where it now lives.
528
00:47:00,920 --> 00:47:03,759
And of course, there is another
great mystery
529
00:47:03,760 --> 00:47:05,560
that no-one has yet explained...
530
00:47:09,400 --> 00:47:11,640
Nobody knows why it's pink.
531
00:47:12,720 --> 00:47:17,599
Could it be that to be pink up here
brings something good?
532
00:47:17,600 --> 00:47:18,960
We don't know.
533
00:47:20,120 --> 00:47:24,879
Maybe this was once spread widely
over the island,
534
00:47:24,880 --> 00:47:28,479
and this is just the relic
population that's left.
535
00:47:28,480 --> 00:47:30,280
Again, we don't know.
536
00:47:31,680 --> 00:47:32,880
Goodbye.
537
00:47:34,320 --> 00:47:37,599
But there's one thing that is
quite certain,
538
00:47:37,600 --> 00:47:41,599
and that is that there's a lot
we have yet to learn about the
539
00:47:41,600 --> 00:47:46,079
enchanted islands, and about the
animals that have evolved here.
540
00:47:46,080 --> 00:47:51,240
And of one thing, I have no doubt -
Charles Darwin would be delighted.
541
00:47:57,600 --> 00:47:59,999
In just a few million years,
542
00:48:00,000 --> 00:48:03,440
this empty expanse of ocean was
transformed.
543
00:48:04,920 --> 00:48:09,400
A series of volcanoes broke
the surface and built the islands.
544
00:48:17,920 --> 00:48:22,080
Against heavy odds,
a few species managed to reach them.
545
00:48:29,880 --> 00:48:31,840
They adapted to what they found...
546
00:48:38,600 --> 00:48:42,640
...and so evolved into a multitude
of new species.
547
00:49:00,240 --> 00:49:05,000
Each new discovery we make gives
Darwin's theory a greater relevance.
548
00:49:11,960 --> 00:49:15,279
But beyond the strange plants
and bizarre animals,
549
00:49:15,280 --> 00:49:17,520
there is a greater significance.
550
00:49:19,760 --> 00:49:21,919
What we've learned here has given us
551
00:49:21,920 --> 00:49:24,280
a greater understanding
of our planet.
552
00:49:25,640 --> 00:49:29,879
This small group of islands has
revealed in microcosm
553
00:49:29,880 --> 00:49:34,040
the processes that have shaped
all life on Earth.
554
00:49:41,320 --> 00:49:43,440
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