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The shots we are going to show you
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constitute a series of truly remarkable feats
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cinematographic. The filmmaker
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follows, in their dizzying ascent, the
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specialists in big rock climbing.
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We are here in the realm of the most tragic fragility.
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Nightmare. Absolutely terrifying nightmare.
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My name is Cédric Lachat.
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And I am what's commonly referred to as a pro
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climber.
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What does it mean to be a pro climber
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? Well, it means traveling around the world from competition to competition,
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climbing the highest on a wall in a gym.
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It means being the best, better than anyone else, all the time.
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Okay.
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That was a long time ago.
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It's still Danette.
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Today, I no longer compete and focus on climbing outdoors.
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What does it mean to be an outdoor climber ?
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Well, it means traveling around the world from crag to crag.
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It means attempting the hardest routes on the planet.
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It means pouting when you're not good enough and it's too hot outside.
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And whining when your fingers hurt.
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I like living the dirtbag lifestyle, spending time alone
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outdoors, experiencing adventure, just like my
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forebearers who forever made an impression on a generation of climbers.
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Yes,
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that was 40 years ago.
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I spend most of my time in my van, driving from cliff to cliff.
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I like the freedom, the calm, and hearing the birds sing.
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Climbing creates a genuine bond with nature and the elements that...
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Well... That was a
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long time ago.
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Okay,
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Back to work.
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In the past few years, climbing has changed at an unprecedented
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rate, and we find ourselves at a historic turning point.
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With the rapid growth in climbing gyms,
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the number of people pulling down on plastic has exploded.
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And now, as an official Olympic sport, climbing's
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long-time counterculture is currently experiencing
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a 21st century transformation.
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With the rise in popularity of indoor climbing, the sport has gone
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mainstream, while at the same time, managing popular
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areas involves increased regulations, and in some cases,
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closures.
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What legacy will we leave for future generations of climbers ?
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Will more restrictions be placed on outdoor climbing areas ?
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What will the future of climbing be
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?
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Hold on a second.
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To understand where we're going,
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we need to know more about where we've been.
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Let's take a quick look back at the history of climbing.
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Tree-climbing equipment by the French Alpine Club, which are the starting point of
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large expeditions, do not hesitate to risk their lives for
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conquer the mountain.
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From the end of the 19th century through the middle of the 20th,
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mountaineering and peak climbing were the main motivations for climbers.
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At the time, only the summit mattered.
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Cragging and bouldering served as the training grounds for building the strength
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and technique needed for grander adventures in the high mountains.
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Many vocations were born in climbing schools, and many of our great
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Mountaineers have perfected their technique there to the point of constantly retreating
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the limits of their capabilities.
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Rock climbing started to develop as its own discipline in England,
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Italy, and Germany. Climbers accomplished genuinely impressive
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feats with very little gear, where falling was simply not an
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optionIn
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the fifties, climbers set up camp in Yosemite, where the
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valley's now legendary granite big walls saw their very first
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descents, all requiring the use of aid technique.
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The image of climbing a while back was Camp 4.
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It was Yosemite, it was dirt bags, it was drugs, it was
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anarchy. It was like the system.
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In the eighties, sport climbing became a separate discipline
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with its own distinct identity.
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It wasn't reaching the top that mattered, but the succession of hard moves
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to get there.
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The sport earned its wings carried by a multitude of emblematic
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figures.
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The number of female climbers began to rise quickly.
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Once part of the counterculture on the margins of society,
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climbing became all the rage and suddenly experienced an
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influx of money and sponsors.
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The first artificial structures were built to meet the needs of competitions,
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giving birth to a new sport where all the rules had to be
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invented.
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In the nineties, training methods progressed at a blistering pace,
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and artificial climbing walls began to appear everywhere.
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Since then, it has all moved so fast.
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From the turn of the 21st century through today, the number of
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indoor climbing gyms has skyrocketed.
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Gyms offer kids the opportunity to start climbing at a young age
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and have contributed to pushing the upper limits of free
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climbing.
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Climbing is now a worldwide sport.
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Just as sport climbing broke away from mountaineering, gym climbing
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has done the same,
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creating its own rules and heroes.
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But while sport climbing has never been more popular,
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what is the current state of traditional places like cliffs and
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crags all over the world?
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I've
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been climbing on cliffs for years now,
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and over time, I've seen that there are always more people,
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and
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that our actions are becoming more and more important.
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If we can't change things today, I think our
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outdoor sport is really
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threatened. To make the
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documentary, I went to see lots of
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different people: climbers, local authorities,
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federations. I went to example locations
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and emblematic cliffs. It's complicated to make a film like this without being too
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moralistic. So, with my little touch of
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humor, I'd like to show our actions and behaviors that can harm our
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practice.
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New block.
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Here you arrive, you don't see
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the
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hole. So...
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Two
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fingers. When you want to
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aim right, you make the two traits, because otherwise you
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aim there, you aim there, you're never on it. There, it's the little finger.
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There, it's the big finger. There, it's the middle.
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You
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see, it's still not precise enough.
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There, it's not bad.
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Ah! I missed it again! Oh, that's
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good.
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Fontainebleau is really a forest out of the
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ordinary, unique in its
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kind, with all its blocks and this granite of a quality
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you will find
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nowhere else.
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This forest is a area south of Paris
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that was covered by
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the sea 60 million years ago, and when the sea left, it left
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sand behind. This sand crystallized into rock.
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Over 27,000 hectares, it is covered with rocks,
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and indeed, when you observe them, you
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can see amazing shapes, elephants,
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eagles, faces.
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The main problem in Fontainebleau today is
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overpopulation.
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In some car parks, we counted more than 2,000 vans,
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knowing that the car parks have
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about a
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hundred
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spaces.
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Oh, it's a campsite.
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No, that's not possible. I just bought a van for 60,000 bucks, I'm not going to
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Paying another 10 bucks for a campsite.
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Okay, I'll go and sit anywhere, it's free.
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Margalef is a site that dates back to the origin of
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Paleolithic and which evolved over the course of the
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time. Today, one of its main strengths
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is climbing.
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And now we are in the situation that everyone
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knows. More or
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less, about
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Between 60,000 and 90,000 people come to the village each year during these
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recent years, including approximately
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80% are
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climbers.
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The forests, and especially that of Meschia, are characterized by these magnificent
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chestnut forests where
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sandstone rocks are deposited on these soils
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musky in very beautiful vegetation.
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This creates a harmony between the beauty of nature
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and the beauty of these rocks sculpted by millennia of
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bad weather.
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Initially, what we did, me in particular, was to do
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There's a lot of publicity for this place.
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Meschia was one of the first places to have suffered a closure
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drastic.
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I'd like to describe Val Bavona as a very wild
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place.
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There's something about it here that's really special.
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And not only is it a very wild place, it's also a very
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raw and kind of intense place.
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Valle Bavona is a special place,
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magic.
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For me, it's definitely a place where it's possible to escape for a little while.
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of everyday reality. It me
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I really enjoy nailing; it's part of my way of life.
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rock climbing.
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The major problem that pretty much all development is experiencing is...
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Climbing in Ticino in general is that one does not
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did not expect in the past that escalation could
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attract as many people as possible to our
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territory.
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The spirit of climbing
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is about being free.
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It's about being a bit of a rebel,
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about going against the grain of society.
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If you play basketball or tennis or soccer or
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anything, you have lines on the field and
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rules. And the beauty of climbing is that it's free.
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And you can go and create your own path.
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Of course, this is the big dilemma, to make first ascents,
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creating a new path. Maybe it's okay if it's one or two people doing
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it, but if it's a million people doing it, then it's not sustainable, right?
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So how to keep that spirit
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while also having some structure, having some regulations.
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So one of the things that we're dealing right now with in climbing
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is this paradox of how to manage the growth of the sport.
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Society mirrors itself through climbing,
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and the evolution of climbing is a mirror into the evolution of
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humans.
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Especially outdoor climbers like myself, we see a
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massification in recent years.
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I think that at one
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At some point, we will have a problem if we
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let's not try
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to solve this
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quickly.
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For years, attendance was reasonable at
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surface view. For about fifteen, twenty
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Over the years, it has accelerated, and today there are sectors that are very affected.
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due to erosion, to the point that we are forced to close the
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sectors.
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The more beautiful a place is, the more easily it will be besieged by
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the masses and the more quickly it will be
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destroyed.
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There are very sensitive areas that will not be able to
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Never welcome too many people.
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It's a major objective problem in general, if you want
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finding a balance between nature and the wishes of the owners
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And
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the climbers.
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Clac, clac, clac.
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Try not to put yourself just anywhere, on your right heel.
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Come on, lie.
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There, perfect.
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Just a little higher. Come on,
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There, you go up, you go up, you go up, you go to the flat again.
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I can't. No, but this sport is too stupid.
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It's crazy, I'm not afraid to have a blast when I have a rope.
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And then, I fall apart.
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Extreme. I'm going to put on some music now.
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A little music, guys? We're gonna crank up the volume.
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Okay, that's it. Okay, that's good. Now, this time, I'm going to keep going.
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Not
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Seriously, there
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You gave me a flashback. I can hear the pulse in my ear.
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Everything about you, right here.
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If a very small percentage of people who come here have attitudes that do not
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They're not civic-minded; in the end, what they're doing is staining everything
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the image of the entire collective that is coming.
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One thing is for sure, I'm not here to moralize.
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I've done everything I shouldn't have done.
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And there are still many things I do wrong.
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I need to go to the bathroom, please.
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I'm going to shit myself.
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Oh, they're everywhere!
259
00:19:41,604 --> 00:19:45,164
I've done everything I shouldn't have done. Guys, I've found the solution.
260
00:19:45,304 --> 00:19:47,424
What you need to do is grab the "poop air" sign.
261
00:19:47,624 --> 00:19:50,084
That way, when you have your private shitty look, you put up your sign.
262
00:19:50,544 --> 00:19:52,004
And this is your part.
263
00:19:55,924 --> 00:19:58,664
Let me use your tub, it's a rest.
264
00:19:58,744 --> 00:20:00,264
I have no resistance.
265
00:20:12,804 --> 00:20:15,404
I've done everything I shouldn't have done.
266
00:20:15,824 --> 00:20:18,484
I think I forgot a line. I'd like to draw another little one.
267
00:20:19,544 --> 00:20:20,564
For fun.
268
00:20:23,204 --> 00:20:26,884
We've gotten into the habit of using plenty of chalk.
269
00:20:27,124 --> 00:20:29,064
And in the Fontainebleau forest, that is not acceptable.
270
00:20:31,624 --> 00:20:32,164
I did it.
271
00:20:36,754 --> 00:20:40,014
Oh, that's still hot!
272
00:20:40,204 --> 00:20:41,854
Then the fences, he
273
00:20:43,224 --> 00:20:44,304
I have occasionally pulled on the maggots.
274
00:20:44,404 --> 00:20:46,974
After that, the cows got away from me, I had to chase after them.
275
00:20:47,164 --> 00:20:48,204
Are the cows alright?
276
00:20:49,204 --> 00:20:50,244
A bit unfriendly.
277
00:20:52,384 --> 00:20:53,544
Everything you shouldn't do,
278
00:20:54,724 --> 00:20:55,264
I did it.
279
00:20:59,124 --> 00:21:01,304
What I really love is barbecues.
280
00:21:02,144 --> 00:21:04,544
Chips, atomic bombs, sausages.
281
00:21:05,704 --> 00:21:09,164
There are people who are used to being able to make a fire in their country without holding
282
00:21:09,344 --> 00:21:11,904
taking into account that we are in a Mediterranean location, what to do
283
00:21:12,024 --> 00:21:15,634
A fire that may seem harmless can ultimately lead to a major disaster.
284
00:21:15,704 --> 00:21:16,264
fire.
285
00:21:20,664 --> 00:21:23,624
In Spain, firefighters continue to fight
286
00:21:23,704 --> 00:21:27,524
against fires
287
00:21:27,544 --> 00:21:29,734
of the forest.
288
00:21:35,544 --> 00:21:38,204
I did it before, yes. That's true.
289
00:21:39,904 --> 00:21:41,624
Before, I did everything I shouldn't have done.
290
00:21:46,324 --> 00:21:50,064
Meschia, after the initial discovery and phase of enthusiasm,
291
00:21:50,244 --> 00:21:53,684
So many people were arriving, more and more each year
292
00:21:53,824 --> 00:21:57,234
year, until one day the owner decided to put an end to it
293
00:21:57,604 --> 00:22:01,414
to free access to this place, because Meschia is located on a
294
00:22:01,464 --> 00:22:05,004
private property with chestnut groves that give life to the
295
00:22:05,024 --> 00:22:05,704
owner.
296
00:22:06,524 --> 00:22:07,524
10 people per day,
297
00:22:08,464 --> 00:22:12,304
That's alright. If you put 100 people a day here walking,
298
00:22:13,024 --> 00:22:14,404
It's all over.
299
00:22:14,424 --> 00:22:18,074
The climbers did nothing more than flock to it.
300
00:22:18,384 --> 00:22:22,354
and go to the toilet everywhere. Sometimes they stole chestnuts,
301
00:22:22,444 --> 00:22:25,764
Sometimes they made a mess. And that thing put an end to it.
302
00:22:25,864 --> 00:22:28,284
free climbing in Meschia.
303
00:22:35,644 --> 00:22:35,964
THE
304
00:22:36,964 --> 00:22:40,954
relationships with the owners, sharing outdoor spaces with others
305
00:22:41,344 --> 00:22:44,774
users, stricter regulations for the areas
306
00:22:44,774 --> 00:22:48,224
protected natural areas in order to protect the flora and fauna
307
00:22:49,284 --> 00:22:53,264
local issues, the return of land to indigenous populations, problems of
308
00:22:53,274 --> 00:22:55,824
parking, political issues, and bad attitudes.
309
00:22:55,984 --> 00:22:59,774
Little by little, the number of climbing areas
310
00:22:59,824 --> 00:23:01,364
impacted by regulations or
311
00:23:02,284 --> 00:23:03,624
of the
312
00:23:04,684 --> 00:23:07,754
closures have increased considerably in the
313
00:23:07,754 --> 00:23:13,084
world.
314
00:23:21,464 --> 00:23:24,464
My skill level varied greatly during those years.
315
00:23:24,504 --> 00:23:28,484
I did my first 6a at age 8. Whereas at
316
00:23:28,664 --> 00:23:30,044
At 9 years old, for example, I did my first 8b.
317
00:23:31,464 --> 00:23:33,944
Now I'm 14 years old and I've already done 9a.
318
00:23:40,464 --> 00:23:44,344
It's certain that route 10a will be possible one day if there isn't a ban beforehand.
319
00:23:44,404 --> 00:23:46,224
of climbing a cliff that is being set up.
320
00:23:49,744 --> 00:23:53,404
The future is open, it will be
321
00:23:53,484 --> 00:23:57,084
created by us and the ideas that will
322
00:23:57,184 --> 00:24:00,904
solutions that will emerge are yet to be invented.
323
00:24:04,524 --> 00:24:06,924
In fact, climbing is at the cutting edge
324
00:24:07,844 --> 00:24:11,304
of this upheaval in the relationship with nature
325
00:24:12,084 --> 00:24:13,444
which concerns all of humanity.
326
00:24:15,804 --> 00:24:16,063
THE
327
00:24:16,084 --> 00:24:20,854
things
328
00:24:20,854 --> 00:24:21,274
have evolved considerably over the years
329
00:24:23,104 --> 00:24:26,324
The last 30, 40 years and the escalation
330
00:24:26,334 --> 00:24:30,254
has transformed into a culture of
331
00:24:30,254 --> 00:24:34,184
consommation.It's not just that we have things to talk
332
00:24:34,224 --> 00:24:36,424
about in climbing. We have things to talk about society.
333
00:24:36,624 --> 00:24:39,604
We have things to talk about humans. Therefore, no one is innocent.
334
00:24:39,644 --> 00:24:43,064
We are all residents. We are all responsible in a certain way.
335
00:24:46,624 --> 00:24:49,424
Everyone looks at their own navel and everyone looks at their own goal.
336
00:24:49,604 --> 00:24:53,444
That selfishness in society. And I think we're losing ourselves in it, because
337
00:24:53,544 --> 00:24:55,084
They all have a justification.
338
00:24:57,064 --> 00:25:00,244
But the worst part is that if you do that, it might get banned.
339
00:25:01,804 --> 00:25:03,664
The climber is the one who loses.
340
00:25:14,064 --> 00:25:17,404
All sports practices are at a point of stress, outdoors.
341
00:25:18,524 --> 00:25:21,724
Mountain biking, trail running, hiking,
342
00:25:22,924 --> 00:25:23,843
mountaineering.
343
00:25:25,424 --> 00:25:28,764
There is a behavioral tendency to go where everyone else goes.
344
00:25:28,964 --> 00:25:32,844
When one summit is overcrowded, there are five surrounding summits that remain unused.
345
00:25:32,904 --> 00:25:34,784
But the one that's fashionable is the one everyone's in.
346
00:25:36,124 --> 00:25:40,044
So, regarding the issue of people who are well-known, who practice, I think that
347
00:25:40,104 --> 00:25:41,504
They begin to call themselves ambassadors.
348
00:25:49,024 --> 00:25:49,684
Today there is a
349
00:25:50,624 --> 00:25:54,244
frenetic use of social networks which increasingly accelerates the
350
00:25:54,304 --> 00:25:57,424
frequenting the most beautiful places around.
351
00:26:18,484 --> 00:26:22,364
And then the increasingly frenetic and continuous production of climbing guides, which
352
00:26:22,384 --> 00:26:25,404
They make it easier for anyone to access any place.
353
00:26:25,434 --> 00:26:28,984
It's a bit of a vicious circle: the more advertising you do,
354
00:26:29,504 --> 00:26:32,804
the stronger you are, the more visible you are and today everyone sees you, so
355
00:26:32,904 --> 00:26:36,624
everything becomes much more famous and all the people
356
00:26:36,664 --> 00:26:40,244
they are ready to go and experience that kind of life too
357
00:26:40,264 --> 00:26:43,263
experience in these places.
358
00:26:45,524 --> 00:26:49,304
Since climbing has become so modern, I think all athletes
359
00:26:49,324 --> 00:26:51,824
start to wonder: "What can I post?
360
00:26:51,964 --> 00:26:54,094
Is it okay to show that I'm in the Calanques?
361
00:26:54,124 --> 00:26:56,874
Won't everyone come to climb outside afterwards?
362
00:26:58,064 --> 00:27:01,664
"So, our behavior must be more than responsible, we must be
363
00:27:01,724 --> 00:27:02,864
copy.
364
00:27:05,124 --> 00:27:08,424
Encouraging the practice of outdoor sports on social media, for example,
365
00:27:09,204 --> 00:27:13,044
Yes, but the whole question is in what practice, how do we
366
00:27:13,084 --> 00:27:13,584
practical ?
367
00:27:14,484 --> 00:27:18,344
Are we focusing on the 25 meters of the
368
00:27:18,424 --> 00:27:22,224
route and on the sequence, etc., and on the problems of
369
00:27:22,284 --> 00:27:25,804
skin of gentleman's little finger or of
370
00:27:25,864 --> 00:27:29,784
Madam? Or are we focusing on which one is
371
00:27:29,804 --> 00:27:31,264
the history of this place
372
00:27:32,084 --> 00:27:35,664
What species live there? What local people live there?
373
00:27:35,704 --> 00:27:37,664
How do people live there? How do you get there?
374
00:27:37,704 --> 00:27:40,744
How can we approach this in a respectful manner?
375
00:27:40,784 --> 00:27:41,324
Machine.
376
00:27:43,084 --> 00:27:45,664
I will never be able to do what you do.
377
00:27:48,204 --> 00:27:51,893
In fact, the problem isn't talking about it, it's how we talk about it.
378
00:27:51,924 --> 00:27:54,264
And what are the stories that are put on social media?
379
00:28:00,404 --> 00:28:02,604
This is not overcrowding in 100% of sectors.
380
00:28:03,684 --> 00:28:06,844
It is in 10% of sectors where, yes, there is overcrowding.
381
00:28:06,944 --> 00:28:10,244
And there are lots of small cliffs completely
382
00:28:11,064 --> 00:28:12,724
Set aside. It's also a matter of fashion.
383
00:28:12,824 --> 00:28:13,704
And the networks, they're there.
384
00:28:14,864 --> 00:28:17,284
They are fully contributing to this overcrowding.
385
00:28:26,824 --> 00:28:29,484
I think that in the end it's not a problem of numbers.
386
00:28:29,544 --> 00:28:33,344
Ultimately, it's a behavioral problem, since a very large number can come.
387
00:28:33,404 --> 00:28:37,214
of people who have exemplary behavior and not even finding out, what's more, contributing
388
00:28:37,244 --> 00:28:40,384
many positive things for the town, both for the local economy and for the
389
00:28:40,444 --> 00:28:41,204
people who live in it.
390
00:28:43,744 --> 00:28:47,464
Since the 2000s, there has been this kind of idea of outdoor sport
391
00:28:47,484 --> 00:28:51,224
where "the earth is our playground".
392
00:28:51,284 --> 00:28:55,164
Outdoor playground. But no, we're not the ones who are going to
393
00:28:55,664 --> 00:28:59,564
in the mountains or on cliffs or on trails to set our Strava records or
394
00:28:59,824 --> 00:29:01,844
To string together our performances. No.
395
00:29:05,484 --> 00:29:08,164
Typically, what is Bioux molasse?
396
00:29:08,384 --> 00:29:11,204
These are sediments from living things that lived 20 million years ago.
397
00:29:11,964 --> 00:29:15,594
And every time we travel a meter, we go back in the geological history of the Earth and
398
00:29:15,784 --> 00:29:18,944
In fact, we're climbing on living things, but just very old ones.
399
00:29:22,304 --> 00:29:25,764
It might seem very poetic or very far-fetched, I don't know,
400
00:29:25,864 --> 00:29:27,404
but in fact, it's
401
00:29:28,244 --> 00:29:32,084
all these little changes in attitude that make you...
402
00:29:32,124 --> 00:29:33,044
behave differently.
403
00:29:44,424 --> 00:29:45,584
Okay guys, I've recorded some sound.
404
00:29:47,484 --> 00:29:50,944
Let's have some fun, because when I climb, I need
405
00:29:51,524 --> 00:29:52,284
the potatoes.
406
00:29:53,564 --> 00:29:56,384
And sorry, I'm still really deaf.
407
00:29:56,924 --> 00:30:00,804
That's nothing new. So, I still turn the sound up high, I put on a
408
00:30:00,844 --> 00:30:01,924
something that rocks.
409
00:30:55,054 --> 00:30:58,254
Last year, the pair of eagle owls settled in an area.
410
00:31:02,034 --> 00:31:06,014
And to create and implement a bubble of tranquility to allow
411
00:31:06,074 --> 00:31:09,834
It seemed that this couple would be able to settle down and successfully reproduce.
412
00:31:09,894 --> 00:31:10,834
to be relevant.
413
00:31:12,114 --> 00:31:15,393
Therefore, there is a major issue on cliffs due to the presence of these species.
414
00:31:15,474 --> 00:31:16,434
protected rock art.
415
00:31:17,654 --> 00:31:21,494
So it was a joint decision that was indeed successful.
416
00:31:21,574 --> 00:31:25,534
to a closure and I find that it is exactly
417
00:31:25,614 --> 00:31:29,044
the model that needs to be continued to be worked on at other sites
418
00:31:29,094 --> 00:31:33,074
possibly those who would be affected by excessively intense activity
419
00:31:33,114 --> 00:31:34,794
all these outdoor activities.
420
00:31:40,874 --> 00:31:44,674
The challenge is to succeed in protecting this space while maintaining these
421
00:31:44,734 --> 00:31:45,194
uses-there.
422
00:31:46,994 --> 00:31:48,734
And also to bring about acceptance
423
00:31:49,674 --> 00:31:53,394
among outdoor sports enthusiasts, and not just those involved in climbing,
424
00:31:53,454 --> 00:31:55,074
but even the average hiker.
425
00:32:00,454 --> 00:32:03,974
The end of the 20th century led to an approach to nature that was
426
00:32:03,984 --> 00:32:07,074
very free and that today, we must
427
00:32:07,134 --> 00:32:10,904
to re-examine without placing absolute freedom at the center of the debates
428
00:32:10,934 --> 00:32:12,094
man in that nature.
429
00:32:20,754 --> 00:32:23,904
Adjusting this freedom so that the impact is
430
00:32:24,074 --> 00:32:27,824
less in relation to nature, because we have this awareness and this capacity to
431
00:32:27,854 --> 00:32:29,074
be aware of that.
432
00:32:33,394 --> 00:32:37,074
If we want to find solutions, we must not think like a
433
00:32:37,094 --> 00:32:37,794
individual, but
434
00:32:38,634 --> 00:32:42,064
like a community. We probably need to think with the
435
00:32:42,094 --> 00:32:45,404
local climbers, with the population, with the
436
00:32:45,514 --> 00:32:47,514
naturalists, along with those who manage the territory.
437
00:32:47,814 --> 00:32:51,333
We need to create teams where there are different perspectives.
438
00:32:51,374 --> 00:32:54,484
It's not just those who want to climb.
439
00:32:54,814 --> 00:32:57,284
We really need to seek a dialogue.
440
00:32:58,594 --> 00:33:01,614
so that we can find concrete solutions.
441
00:33:15,774 --> 00:33:18,954
In the field, federations, land managers,
442
00:33:19,174 --> 00:33:22,994
non-profits and NGOs, state and national parks have now
443
00:33:23,054 --> 00:33:26,974
come up with well-adapted solutions to better managing climbing areas.
444
00:33:30,334 --> 00:33:31,903
This can include paid parking,
445
00:33:33,114 --> 00:33:35,064
designated campsites and parking lots,
446
00:33:36,154 --> 00:33:37,514
cooperation with landowners,
447
00:33:38,574 --> 00:33:40,514
waste management, signage,
448
00:33:41,354 --> 00:33:42,234
building awareness,
449
00:33:43,274 --> 00:33:47,234
and closures during fire season or during nesting seasons for
450
00:33:47,334 --> 00:33:50,034
birds of prey and other endangered species.
451
00:33:56,814 --> 00:34:00,714
Certain overly popular areas, such as Yosemite National Park
452
00:34:00,754 --> 00:34:04,334
in California and Waco Tanks State Park in Texas,
453
00:34:05,154 --> 00:34:08,435
set up quota systems to limit the number of visitors per day,
454
00:34:09,214 --> 00:34:13,034
and in some cases, require hiring an official guide to
455
00:34:13,074 --> 00:34:14,114
go climbing in the park.
456
00:34:16,394 --> 00:34:20,314
This method of regulating the number of climbers could one day
457
00:34:20,354 --> 00:34:23,044
be applied to certain popular climbing areas in Europe.
458
00:34:29,094 --> 00:34:32,725
But as outdoor climbing areas go through these natural growing pangs,
459
00:34:33,354 --> 00:34:37,274
indoor climbing and bouldering gyms continue to increase in popularity
460
00:34:37,455 --> 00:34:41,334
at a breakneck pace. Every week, a new climbing structure is
461
00:34:41,394 --> 00:34:42,834
built somewhere in the world.
462
00:34:43,574 --> 00:34:44,975
The future of climbing.
463
00:34:45,854 --> 00:34:47,294
The real climbing will begin.
464
00:34:49,734 --> 00:34:52,534
This is the future of climbing.
465
00:34:54,714 --> 00:34:56,894
Now young people have become too stylish.
466
00:34:56,935 --> 00:34:59,473
They remain the best, as if you had distilled them.
467
00:34:59,674 --> 00:35:02,134
We're no longer from the Catherine Destivelle generation.
468
00:35:02,194 --> 00:35:05,474
We want to climb to some heavy sound with maximum decibels.
469
00:35:05,514 --> 00:35:09,434
And if one day the cliffs overflow, we can always count on the kilter.
470
00:35:09,474 --> 00:35:12,394
board. One thousand eight at full speed on a three square meter space.
471
00:35:12,474 --> 00:35:14,734
That's more than full capacity on a thousand hectares of forest.
472
00:35:15,014 --> 00:35:17,454
No more pros overpaying to keep their sponsors.
473
00:35:17,514 --> 00:35:19,954
To make a living from climbing, there's no choice, you'll have to be strong.
474
00:35:20,814 --> 00:35:22,214
The real climbing will begin.
475
00:35:25,274 --> 00:35:28,334
There's something extraordinary about wall climbing,
476
00:35:29,374 --> 00:35:31,194
It's because we are the ones who create the movements.
477
00:35:32,214 --> 00:35:36,074
There, there is a certain gestural quality, a creativity,
478
00:35:36,914 --> 00:35:40,774
a world that trailblazers exploit
479
00:35:40,814 --> 00:35:44,434
and that when we go to the theaters, we have an experience of it
480
00:35:44,454 --> 00:35:44,914
direct.
481
00:35:49,574 --> 00:35:51,814
There is a creative side to it that is limitless.
482
00:35:53,054 --> 00:35:54,694
It's a musical score, it's a painting.
483
00:35:55,594 --> 00:35:59,113
With one stand and three sockets, you can create millions of movements.
484
00:35:59,994 --> 00:36:00,113
They
485
00:36:17,454 --> 00:36:21,384
Those guys are crazy. Did you see how heavily fortified it is?
486
00:36:21,434 --> 00:36:25,053
Back then, people used to go to the mountains. What would they say now, Ribuffa?
487
00:36:25,194 --> 00:36:29,134
Look, you've piled them all on top of the other one there, making slippery plastic.
488
00:36:32,514 --> 00:36:34,814
A climbing gym is a bit like a fitness center.
489
00:36:35,414 --> 00:36:37,554
Ultimately, it's a relatively expensive subscription.
490
00:36:37,594 --> 00:36:40,414
So, we are necessarily in a segment of the population that has the means to
491
00:36:40,454 --> 00:36:41,654
pay for a gym membership.
492
00:36:45,130 --> 00:36:48,770
I like climbing because it's a good combination of mental and
493
00:36:48,810 --> 00:36:52,610
physical exercise, and there's definitely that social aspect
494
00:36:52,670 --> 00:36:56,250
too. So it's a good combination of all the things that I love,
495
00:36:56,350 --> 00:36:59,530
and it keeps you healthy, keeps you strong.
496
00:37:01,490 --> 00:37:03,740
I fought through way too much on this lonely road.
497
00:37:04,290 --> 00:37:06,910
I lost blood, not their tears, but I won't lose my soul.
498
00:37:10,190 --> 00:37:14,030
What's interesting about indoor climbing is its ephemeral nature.
499
00:37:15,610 --> 00:37:19,090
because it allows one to work towards a certain form of detachment.
500
00:37:20,230 --> 00:37:21,690
This is the new generation.
501
00:37:24,850 --> 00:37:28,150
When you've been trying a boulder problem in the gym or a route in the... for 15 days
502
00:37:28,190 --> 00:37:28,510
room
503
00:37:29,370 --> 00:37:32,350
and you can't do it and then you arrive, they've changed the lanes.
504
00:37:33,870 --> 00:37:35,170
Something is happening.
505
00:37:36,010 --> 00:37:37,430
And that's interesting too.
506
00:37:52,960 --> 00:37:53,950
What we want to propose,
507
00:37:56,330 --> 00:37:59,850
It's an escalation that stimulates both intelligence,
508
00:38:04,190 --> 00:38:06,230
both the gestures
509
00:38:08,290 --> 00:38:09,930
and at the same time, aesthetics.
510
00:38:11,710 --> 00:38:13,450
We want our buildings to be beautiful to look at.
511
00:38:14,270 --> 00:38:16,630
We want our bouldering problems to be interesting to climb.
512
00:38:20,450 --> 00:38:24,300
And we want our blocks to be intellectually complex to
513
00:38:24,330 --> 00:38:24,830
decipher.
514
00:38:31,460 --> 00:38:34,650
Climbing is trying to find its place among all the other sports.
515
00:38:34,970 --> 00:38:38,810
So, we had to imagine new movements, something that would be
516
00:38:38,830 --> 00:38:41,730
Highly visual, something that makes you want to go, something spectacular.
517
00:38:44,190 --> 00:38:47,530
Ultimately, I think this might be the place for climbing.
518
00:38:47,970 --> 00:38:48,570
modern.
519
00:39:03,610 --> 00:39:07,270
It's been interesting for me to discover is when I come to a climbing gym,
520
00:39:08,150 --> 00:39:11,570
I'm not thinking about some big achievement.
521
00:39:12,010 --> 00:39:14,310
I'm not trying to climb La Dura Dura,
522
00:39:16,230 --> 00:39:18,690
or I'm not trying to climb Biographie,
523
00:39:19,930 --> 00:39:21,320
or Espantas,
524
00:39:23,630 --> 00:39:27,460
or something that is important. It's more just enjoying the
525
00:39:27,530 --> 00:39:28,350
movement of climbing.
526
00:39:42,330 --> 00:39:43,010
In this way,
527
00:39:43,890 --> 00:39:47,450
I found that I have some very pure climbing
528
00:39:47,490 --> 00:39:51,470
experiences, even sometimes the most pure when I'm in the climbing
529
00:39:51,530 --> 00:39:55,290
gym because I'm just in the moment enjoying
530
00:39:55,310 --> 00:39:57,850
this connection with my body moving.
531
00:39:59,470 --> 00:40:02,510
And it's not connected to my ego so much.
532
00:40:03,490 --> 00:40:07,200
So I think it's really interesting because for so many years, I only
533
00:40:07,230 --> 00:40:10,870
promoted outdoor climbing as the pure way.
534
00:40:11,650 --> 00:40:15,210
And in fact, it's even possible to have a more pure
535
00:40:15,250 --> 00:40:17,090
experience somehow indoors.
536
00:40:18,550 --> 00:40:21,490
And so I think it's an interesting paradox, I guess.
537
00:40:26,730 --> 00:40:30,230
The incredible success of indoor climbing gyms has led to an
538
00:40:30,290 --> 00:40:32,150
exponential increase in their numbers.
539
00:40:32,850 --> 00:40:36,460
Today, there are an estimated 30 million gym climbers around the
540
00:40:36,530 --> 00:40:36,850
world.
541
00:40:38,450 --> 00:40:40,110
This boom means more holds,
542
00:40:41,230 --> 00:40:44,010
more smartphone apps, more wall structures,
543
00:40:45,250 --> 00:40:49,120
and even integrating artificial intelligence into the route-setting process.
544
00:40:50,570 --> 00:40:53,790
Indoor climbing gyms have now become the largest segment of the climbing
545
00:40:53,850 --> 00:40:54,690
industry.
546
00:40:55,730 --> 00:40:58,910
Long gone are the days of the simple basement training wall.
547
00:40:59,390 --> 00:41:03,170
Modern private gyms offer a wide range of services far beyond
548
00:41:03,290 --> 00:41:04,210
just climbing.
549
00:41:06,750 --> 00:41:10,010
This is typically the ability to create places
550
00:41:10,870 --> 00:41:14,810
where we will practice a sport. And by practicing this sport, we create
551
00:41:14,820 --> 00:41:18,610
of social connection. And we will continue to spread this social connection throughout the rest of
552
00:41:18,650 --> 00:41:21,150
the room with, in quotation marks, the related services.
553
00:41:24,730 --> 00:41:27,150
You can enjoy a meal or a drink after your session,
554
00:41:28,090 --> 00:41:31,960
take a yoga or a weightlifting class, relax in the sauna, or
555
00:41:32,030 --> 00:41:33,610
even use co-working spaces.
556
00:41:35,030 --> 00:41:38,710
Gyms feature dedicated play areas for kids, film screenings,
557
00:41:39,040 --> 00:41:42,530
and other evening events, offering a whole new take on the
558
00:41:42,590 --> 00:41:44,790
traditional climbing gym experience.
559
00:41:49,710 --> 00:41:52,130
Two, one, go!
560
00:41:53,210 --> 00:41:53,810
Skinny.
561
00:41:54,010 --> 00:41:56,230
Yes, but I'm not going up there to attack my base.
562
00:41:56,670 --> 00:41:59,470
Yes, I do the chicane too. Come on.
563
00:41:59,950 --> 00:42:00,270
Three,
564
00:42:01,070 --> 00:42:02,230
Two. Okay.
565
00:42:04,310 --> 00:42:06,170
Okay, that's it. Look.
566
00:42:07,590 --> 00:42:08,050
Very good.
567
00:42:19,970 --> 00:42:23,910
I think majority of the people that come to our gyms or that go to
568
00:42:23,990 --> 00:42:25,070
most gyms, it's like
569
00:42:26,450 --> 00:42:29,110
they're not going to become rock climbers.
570
00:42:32,810 --> 00:42:36,710
And I can see it for myself, too. The amount of effort
571
00:42:36,750 --> 00:42:40,650
and time that I need to go rock climbing to try my project in Oliana,
572
00:42:40,810 --> 00:42:43,270
I have to spend all day to drive two hours
573
00:42:45,170 --> 00:42:48,956
to make two tries.And then to drive two
574
00:42:49,006 --> 00:42:50,806
hours back, I get home super late.
575
00:42:53,006 --> 00:42:56,526
Compared to the convenience of coming to a climbing gym, I can come
576
00:42:56,586 --> 00:43:00,276
here and in two hours I can climb so much.
577
00:43:01,706 --> 00:43:05,636
It really fits into my lifestyle with my family and everything so much
578
00:43:05,666 --> 00:43:07,346
easier.
579
00:43:25,406 --> 00:43:28,966
We must reflect on the fact that life is at the
580
00:43:29,046 --> 00:43:30,266
border between worlds.
581
00:43:32,326 --> 00:43:35,766
There is the natural world, and there is the artificial world.
582
00:43:36,726 --> 00:43:40,166
We always live between the two. It's a construct
583
00:43:40,286 --> 00:43:42,906
mental and cultural. We are nature
584
00:43:43,946 --> 00:43:45,646
And we are artificial.
585
00:43:47,546 --> 00:43:50,886
But what's interesting is seeing the conversations between the two.
586
00:43:51,606 --> 00:43:55,546
What are the links between the climbing we are going to
587
00:43:55,606 --> 00:43:58,446
artificial and natural climbing
588
00:43:59,486 --> 00:43:59,986
?
589
00:44:00,606 --> 00:44:03,896
But you cannot put people all in the same box all the
590
00:44:03,926 --> 00:44:07,896
time. When it comes to saying climbing is climbing, climbers are
591
00:44:07,906 --> 00:44:11,546
climbers, indoor climbers are outdoor climbers, it doesn't
592
00:44:11,566 --> 00:44:12,706
exactly all align.
593
00:44:13,546 --> 00:44:16,166
As I said, it's not linear. It's multidimensional.
594
00:44:16,706 --> 00:44:20,046
These are things that are very three-dimensional.
595
00:44:29,766 --> 00:44:32,326
It's climbing, but they are very different things.
596
00:44:33,926 --> 00:44:35,006
There's swimming in a pool,
597
00:44:35,826 --> 00:44:36,986
and there's swimming in the ocean.
598
00:44:37,726 --> 00:44:39,786
Then there's swimming in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
599
00:44:41,706 --> 00:44:44,146
There's swimming in a lake, there's swimming in a river,
600
00:44:45,066 --> 00:44:46,266
there's swimming in a pool inside.
601
00:44:47,546 --> 00:44:48,826
There are many forms of swimming.
602
00:44:50,006 --> 00:44:51,186
There are many forms of climbing.
603
00:44:58,445 --> 00:45:02,426
Indoor will definitely be a big part
604
00:45:02,466 --> 00:45:05,466
of the future of climbing because nature will not be ready for it
605
00:45:05,526 --> 00:45:09,086
to accommodate ever-increasing masses of climbers.
606
00:45:09,126 --> 00:45:12,826
So surely big investors will build big temples for
607
00:45:12,866 --> 00:45:16,426
climbing and entertaining people.
608
00:45:20,346 --> 00:45:24,146
Of course, there will be a change happening in the next decades
609
00:45:24,206 --> 00:45:27,916
because virtually everything has been climbed already.
610
00:45:30,926 --> 00:45:33,066
There's not so much left to explore.
611
00:45:33,166 --> 00:45:37,086
So in my point of view, climbing will be as
612
00:45:37,126 --> 00:45:40,806
an activity more centered about indoor
613
00:45:40,906 --> 00:45:41,946
climbing in the future.
614
00:45:43,786 --> 00:45:47,306
There will be still a lot of outdoor activity, but
615
00:45:47,366 --> 00:45:49,175
less pioneering-wise,
616
00:45:50,386 --> 00:45:54,046
but more like go out there, go to the
617
00:45:54,086 --> 00:45:56,926
climbs and just have a nice day.
618
00:46:09,926 --> 00:46:12,406
I already love being outside, in nature.
619
00:46:13,386 --> 00:46:15,626
I like the freedom one can have.
620
00:46:19,646 --> 00:46:22,986
There are so many paths to explore that are historical or involve gestures
621
00:46:23,126 --> 00:46:25,446
specific, magnificent, with a frame, etc.
622
00:46:26,806 --> 00:46:30,386
Before thinking about the huge performance or the path of the
623
00:46:30,446 --> 00:46:34,326
future, already climbing everything around us a little bit,
624
00:46:36,086 --> 00:46:37,086
That could be a great goal.
625
00:46:54,746 --> 00:46:56,006
If climbing is my profession,
626
00:46:57,826 --> 00:47:00,226
That means I spend a lot of time climbing and training.
627
00:47:02,206 --> 00:47:03,526
And so all my energy,
628
00:47:04,546 --> 00:47:08,365
Professionally, too, she goes in one direction and at the end, there is my
629
00:47:08,375 --> 00:47:09,146
navel.
630
00:47:11,046 --> 00:47:14,366
And so, for me, that was fundamentally problematic because I think that by
631
00:47:14,426 --> 00:47:16,746
Our work requires us to contribute something to the world.
632
00:47:22,266 --> 00:47:24,366
There comes a point where we need to redefine performance.
633
00:47:26,286 --> 00:47:28,666
That means what has value
634
00:47:29,866 --> 00:47:32,426
What can the community value?
635
00:47:34,126 --> 00:47:36,446
to help us grow as climbers
636
00:47:37,866 --> 00:47:38,366
?
637
00:47:39,526 --> 00:47:42,156
Today, I'm going to do a 9a
638
00:47:43,006 --> 00:47:45,856
or an 8c, if every time I have to try the route, I have to do 80
639
00:47:45,886 --> 00:47:48,206
Personally, I'm not interested in driving kilometers.
640
00:47:50,746 --> 00:47:52,546
That's not what makes sense today.
641
00:47:54,146 --> 00:47:57,346
The value is there, it's in the meaning, in the coherence and above all
642
00:47:58,166 --> 00:48:00,566
in the experience and in the embodiment of what I say.
643
00:48:01,886 --> 00:48:03,986
For me, from the moment I live what I say,
644
00:48:07,166 --> 00:48:09,906
No one can take that away from me, because I lived it.
645
00:48:10,375 --> 00:48:14,346
When I experience cycling from Saint-Léger to Bioux, it...
646
00:48:14,386 --> 00:48:17,066
takes 5 hours instead of 1 hour 30 minutes by car.
647
00:48:18,326 --> 00:48:19,026
but in fact,
648
00:48:20,426 --> 00:48:24,166
I see a number of wonderful things that I have
649
00:48:24,246 --> 00:48:26,666
I want to defend it and I want to be a part of it.
650
00:48:28,246 --> 00:48:31,546
It's so real, since I'm experiencing it myself.
651
00:48:31,586 --> 00:48:35,406
No matter how much people tell me, "Yes, but it's your bus," I know it works.
652
00:48:37,066 --> 00:48:38,526
I know that this is what fulfills me more.
653
00:48:39,446 --> 00:48:41,886
And I think it's not just because I'm an alien.
654
00:48:44,806 --> 00:48:48,206
But if doing what we love destroys what allows us to do it,
655
00:48:49,526 --> 00:48:50,146
It's going nowhere.
656
00:48:58,296 --> 00:49:01,376
What you're doing is great, Eline, but I can't manage the bike.
657
00:49:03,296 --> 00:49:04,636
I can't do it, it's just too hard.
658
00:49:06,296 --> 00:49:10,026
Honestly, Eline, for me, either I go to the gym, or I quit.
659
00:49:10,056 --> 00:49:13,596
Rock climbing. It burns my legs, my bags, everything.
660
00:49:14,916 --> 00:49:16,556
But what you're doing is really good.
661
00:49:18,096 --> 00:49:19,436
But I think I'm too old.
662
00:49:20,616 --> 00:49:22,875
Exactly, that's it.
663
00:49:23,976 --> 00:49:26,656
Come on, Cédric. Yes, you're coming down. Great.
664
00:49:27,256 --> 00:49:30,936
Exactly. This movement is still tough.
665
00:49:31,076 --> 00:49:33,836
You really need to stay calm.
666
00:49:46,996 --> 00:49:50,836
What I dare say is that I am not perfect and
667
00:49:50,876 --> 00:49:52,056
I will never be perfect.
668
00:49:52,876 --> 00:49:56,296
But I'm trying. And for me,
669
00:49:57,076 --> 00:50:00,736
In the future, we must all try to do
670
00:50:00,776 --> 00:50:03,256
It's good for it to work, quite simply.
671
00:50:03,275 --> 00:50:07,196
We just need to become aware of our actions, and that alone is enough.
672
00:50:07,256 --> 00:50:11,136
will be a big step. I'm just saying to listen to everything
673
00:50:11,216 --> 00:50:11,436
That,
674
00:50:12,396 --> 00:50:16,356
to realize that our actions have great importance.
675
00:50:16,776 --> 00:50:20,676
If everyone thinks about it, try it a little, things will change.
676
00:50:21,116 --> 00:50:22,296
This is going to change drastically.
677
00:50:42,656 --> 00:50:45,196
Right, I cross to the left, I turn right again.
678
00:50:47,216 --> 00:50:48,516
Vinegar water, diluted.
679
00:50:53,076 --> 00:50:54,795
Luckily I have a real brush.
680
00:50:59,116 --> 00:50:59,956
She's a mass, there.
681
00:51:01,556 --> 00:51:02,256
Disgusting.
682
00:51:03,756 --> 00:51:07,626
That's great. What's really great about Spain is
683
00:51:07,636 --> 00:51:11,476
that they make poop areas. I love Spain for the
684
00:51:11,496 --> 00:51:15,156
Private poop areas. But it's your private toilet.
685
00:51:16,556 --> 00:51:20,216
It's driving me crazy. I've done this scene 50 times, I can't do it, my battery's dead.
686
00:51:20,356 --> 00:51:22,976
I tried it every which way. So, the only solution,
687
00:51:24,316 --> 00:51:25,396
I'm taking the sign with me.
688
00:51:26,436 --> 00:51:28,736
With algorithms, the codes will be organized.
689
00:51:28,796 --> 00:51:31,216
There will be no more smoke and mirrors to make you believe you've made progress.
690
00:51:31,556 --> 00:51:35,296
Finally, in the gyms, we'll be able to have cool blocks and we'll never again have
691
00:51:35,305 --> 00:51:38,956
Steps that don't work. No more sharp, arched steps, no more freezing afternoons.
692
00:51:38,976 --> 00:51:42,076
the rush, the wobbly holds, the old belays on bolts, the holds
693
00:51:42,096 --> 00:51:45,436
polished surfaces and routes where you can't see the summit, challenging moves, the
694
00:51:45,456 --> 00:51:48,636
stones that can knock you out, the weird eliminations, the paths that make
695
00:51:48,736 --> 00:51:52,426
The crossing, the annoying locals and the bitter cold that gives you frostbite, the stairs
696
00:51:52,456 --> 00:51:55,846
endless approaches, air travel, conditions, ratings, the
697
00:51:55,916 --> 00:51:58,056
conventions will soon be a thing of the past if we hold firm.
698
00:51:59,736 --> 00:52:01,156
The real climbing would begin.55334
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