All language subtitles for Alfa Romeo Giulietta, Mito 1.4 Turbo Timing Belt Tensioning. Fiat 500 Dodge Dart (Englisch_ASR)

alpha male 1.4 turbo

this one's a wii julietta

with 75 000 miles on the clock

it's a 2011 model year so at uh 10 years

old it's 20 21 time of shooting this

and we're going to do the basics of a

town about change

[Music]

okay

so

the data that i have

uh the recommend

is 72 000 miles for a 10 ball change on

these 1.4

or five years

this car is 10 years old and there's 75

000 meds on so

that's why we're going to do a timing

belt

on it so it's just a routine maintenance

the big thing about it is uh

you know you need to do the whole lot to

change the tensioner

change the water pump you can buy them

in a kit and it's not the kit is not

there

this thing here we're looking at is the

timing tools

now

there's probably videos on youtube

showing this type of procedure

and people just tip backs it up and away

to go

now

to be quite honest with you in my

opinion

if you do it in that way

there's

i can't see how it's timed right if you

do it like that um we'll see later on in

the video and you know

maybe show the reason why i say that all

right i'm saying that so this week hit

here is available on the amazon store

it's about 30 quid at the time shooting

and

it does

a multitude of engines uh

so we're not going to need that and not

these would be for the 1.2 engine

that's a flyweight locker there we're

not going to need that we're not going

to need that bio there but we are going

to need that

small tennis bat

and a few screws so

versatility kit there does a few engines

so this video isn't going to show you

the whole thing it's just going to show

you the uh how to time it up really

now uh

you know

as you can see the the engine supported

so i have the the engine mount off and a

few other bits and pieces removed

and it's just to show you the sort of

basics of this

and uh let's see

we'll get you up there so that's our our

crank wave

so

i'm going to say there there's no

markings in this um

and i'm going to sort of contradict

myself a bit because

there is this marking

but it doesn't correspond the only thing

there's no margins on the camshaft wheel

at all which is up there

uh

this

mark here you can see it sort of roughly

lanes up with that sort of mold laying

there but you know

why that's there it doesn't actually

need to be there

what sort of is important is this we

spud here

so if we offer offer the crank pulley up

to this we can see that we spot

keeps that in position and that way spud

is crucial and you know

you sort of need to treat that sweet

spot it is tiny but you need to treat it

with a better respect you do not want to

flatten that you know or crush it by

putting the tool on in the wrong way

you know or putting this crank wheel on

in the wrong way and i don't know where

that the bolts are laying up

and correctly or not it may only go on

one way

but uh

it doesn't matter anyway the wee spot is

the important thing

so

as you can see

your teeth are for your crank position

sensor

which is to the right of the picture

that thing

and that's looking at that

teeth the

tooth wheeler

and we can see

there's our

missing teeth

which we see in scope captures

so the orientation of that is threshold

and it's that wee tiny wee spod

that we tiny spot that puts that in the

right position

so the camshaft wheel

has no margins on it at all

and

this calm wheel is not keyed so this

bolt is just holding that to the

camshaft with friction

so if you loosen that bolt this can

rotate and

the security to taming this correctly is

you do indeed loosen this bolt

so all we'll have is a tensioner

an automatic tensioner and

the water pump and that's all this belt

does

you can see a bit of worry on the back

side of it there that's the original

belt on this car

and

oh yes

these belts aren't really known for

snapping you know

clearly if you if you don't if you never

change this belt it'll probably let go

sometime but the water pumps

they are new on

uh for the the burns the

feel and you know that the water pump

then they'll rattle about and that will

throw the belt down

over here on the right hand side of the

engine this is the this is the battery

tray i have the battery removed and

there's a boost pipe that goes sort of

past here and on to the uh

underneath you can't really see it

on the intake there there's a throttle

body

so i have a few bits and pieces removed

here you know you don't normally need to

take a battery out it's probably

available to disconnect the battery uh i

have the boost bed completely removed

real reason for that it gives me buckets

of room but it

you know

you don't really need to do that but i

have other work to do in this car and

for the purposes of filming that's it

sort of helps as well

so

over here

is where let's buy here lives which is a

vacuum pump

and the vacuum pump

bolts on to there

you know and uh there's associated

bracketry and stuff like that

around it

and uh it bolts onto this uh oil

separator and pcv

so

we get the vacuum pump off and that's

how we're going to lock the car

and with the vacuum pump off then this

is what we see

so the slot there is the is the driver

or the thing that drives the vacuum pump

up by there so that's what we're going

to use to lock this cam shaft

and there's also this wee hole here it's

a e pin hole thing and that helps us uh

make sure our uh lock until is in place

now i have this in position

and you can see the wee hole here is on

the left hand side

now

some

locking tools

uh have the wii a pin that corresponds

to that hole

uh

they have it on the other side and you

need that whole thing on the other side

but that's okay you just rotate the

crank you know one more time and that'll

get that over to this side it doesn't

really matter

so the tool that i that i have in this

kit

is this by here so you can see that

triangular shape

that the uh the gasket's still on up

there in the vacuum pump gasket

and uh the tool that comes in that blue

box is this by here

as i say some of these type of tools

with this triangular thing you know

there's just a welded piece on here but

this particular one you know is

screwed on is bolted on there

so you can loosen that and keep that a

wee bit let it jiggle a wee bit

because getting this timed up especially

on the crank it's

precise you know

so

and as i say there's a pin

here

and some tilts have the pin on the other

side but it doesn't make any difference

let's say it's on so as long as laying

it up so we just offer that up under the

cab shaft and this uh should be in

position

for me so

we'll get that on

hopefully

no

wait

there we go

so well these slightly less then it sort

of helps for that

and then

the three allen key

bolts

that we've got

in the kit

we can get them screw it in and so the

wee bit of movement there you see that

tiny bit of movement

because these are slightly loose

you know it just allows this to

a lane rather than the uh

the welded up ones you know

so we'll get them in

and uh

just a wee nip there

and everything and that's our

that's our calm shaft held

let me see where's we honking that's it

so you don't need to

just nip them up you know

don't need to go mad with it

but that

if she's out the slightest wee bit

you know

a third or a mill or whatever

you can run the risk of stripping

something in this aluminium head

and

that's why i like this one that

allows the bolts to be this

the ladder line up

jobs again

so a lot of the crankshaft in it that

basically uh

what we're gonna do is lock the crank

pulley to

this part here which is uh you know one

of the mountains for

the plastic cover and uh

so that's till it's me they want however

the only thing about it is uh

you know this is

it has to be dead in lane with us you

know so you could strip that out if

you're not exactly in lane it's you know

pretty precise so again

the way i want to do it

is you put the three bolts in

uh

then the crank

pulley wheel

um

keep them less

and there's a hole

in this tool

for the wii spud that we'll talk about

earlier

so

i'll just give it a nip

so that's the engine locked both uh

com shaft and crankshaft

so we've still got our belt on a minute

and uh

the crank is locked

and the camshaft

is locked with our locking tools

so

you can do this next but what we need to

do

is slack on this nut

now you can go ahead and grab it at this

moment time and take the belt off if you

wish doesn't really matter

uh but you can slack on it now if you

want uh just a while the bell's still on

it

but

the camshaft

locking tool

is not a calm shaft holding tool

so

you need to counter hold this pulley

and uh

yeah so if you don't do that well

you'll probably break the lock until uh

to be honest with you or you're on the

risk of snapping the camshaft

so

this is my favorite

counter hole tool which is made

by myself

but it's my favorite one because it's

nice and long

and i'm going to counter hold it and

slack on this nut

so we'll see how it goes

that's enough

just enough to crack it

now i'm gonna take a belt off

all right so we can go ahead and uh

loosen our tensioner

bolt

knot which is

13ml

and

that's slacking our off

there we go we'll just go ahead and

remove the tensioner because we're going

to change it

and we'll go ahead and pull our belt off

that's it

so

that will crack this

this pulley

this pulley can spin

as you can see

so

you really need to do this but

i'm just in the habit of giving this

face a bit of a degrees and a bit of a

clean

because

the pulley is held in place by pure

friction

because there's no keyway

and

we'll just get

any debris away from the place

and we'll just get the pulley back on

again but keep it loose

so you want this pulley to be

so that it can rotate

but you don't want to be able to tilt

you know like that

you don't want to be able to

rock

you know

and

like that yeah

so it's pretty decent fit on the end of

the comp shaft there

so you want to rotate

like that

but not rock

so just

nipped up your fingers

so

we're in a position now we're going to

go ahead and remove this water pump

bucket below and uh

i'll change the water pump and we'll

come back whenever that's done

so a new water pump fitted

and

these water pumps it's just uh

sealed with

our tv instant gasket so you need to

make sure your surfaces are are spotless

so

i went ahead and fed the belt

with our crank locking tool still in

place you never have to take it off

you put the belt on the untensioned side

and with the calm wheel

able to move

you're able to

pull the belt around and slip it onto

the tensioner

now you're probably not going to be able

to see me tensioning this

because my my arm's probably going to be

on the road but uh i'll show you on the

old tensioner

so

the sweet tool that you get in the kit

is in the tv holes and you bring around

like that

and whenever you do that you can see

the slack getting brought up

by the movement

of the car wheel

so that's why we do this with the calm

wheel

loose

and able to turn freely

if you didn't loosen that calmly though

then you're not gonna get this tension

correctly

and you're gonna really struggle getting

that belt on as well

so what i'm doing there

is

this is the old tensioner

so this is our retail

and it goes into those three holes there

and you basically laying that notch up

with that notch up

and then tighten your knot up

right with our

tensioner notches

lined up

down there and uh

our tensioner knot

then

nipped up and torqued

and the the

the torque specs in this i'll tell you

after do this here with the torque specs

so uh

we need to tighten this calm wheel up

so whatever you do don't forget to

tighten this calmly look because if you

take your locking kit lock and kept out

and uh try and rotate it obviously the

calm shaft will not rotate so it'll just

spin freely so you need to remember this

now you must again you must counter hold

so the calm shaft lock and key

kept

is still in

in the camshaft

so that's so the camshaft doesn't move

you know from obviously

well it's coming out sort of obviously

so

we're gonna

counteract

the motion

and uh

so you need to get

set up first

make sure you're not gonna slip

or anything like that

that sounds pretty good

so what

paper

went off at 120 newton meters

the specification for that nut is 108 to

132

so i just took a mid ranger at

you do not need to change that bolt

uh

it is not a stretch bolt

and suddenly you do not need to change

the knot on the tensioner it's a special

knot you know don't put any knot on

so

that sauce tightened

take a log and cut out

so both lock and tools are off

and we'll do the obligatory spin around

from the crank

uh

crank wheel two rotations that's a full

engine cycle

and with the spark plugs in the end

you have to beat the compression a bit

but that's okay

so here's what we've taken off it uh so

what i say was on the car about 74

thousand men's

or something

along those lines

so

this is

the original belt

so it's uh a lancia logo there

no manufacturer on it so well they make

it themselves or not i'm not sure what

does that say or

made in new year's i can't make it

but

uh

so

not

tea bag

on the back side there

but

[Music]

on the front side

there has a few crackers up here

here and there

and

the vassar pumpa

um

that seemed all right

not too bad

no real

the center there

the bearing something going these and

these can carry walls about the place

the only

thing

is

a couple of these if you look at a

couple of these stud holes here

they're kind of rusty

so

that maybe was starting to try and

lick a wee bit

but they

well this is the auxiliary belt

or

you know alternator belt whatever you

want to call it so i mark these

uh directional rotation

you know so if you are going to put them

back on again you know

that's a good good practice to put them

on

in the way that they've been pulled you

know in the direction that they've been

built so that's what that we are was for

and that's uh

fiat partridge

being

italian

and uh well she ain't going back on

again

because she's

there's a few cuts on it here and there

so

new one i am for all the pricing

engine rotated twice clockwise

get my crank back on again that's the

top bolt in there again

and we get our camshaft

job in here we'll just keep these

are we

hurtless just so it lines up we've been

easier for us you know

so let me see

i'm gonna go off

just fell in base

just fell in

so

we'll lose there a wee bit less on it

there i'll

let us thread this in there easy

so

that

is

perfectly tanned

i don't really need to take but

we'll just check her

so there's our our tensioner notch

lining up there

so if you do spin this round this is

something that before with well it

happens with 10 belts all the time if

you do attention if you do whenever you

do spin around

and you know the belt feigns it's sort

of tension if you know what i mean

uh

you know so with rotating around

a couple of times sometimes that might

move slightly on you you know so it's

just a matter of backing that off

putting her back in the position again

tighten that back up again like i take

that the 24 meters that i say 24

and uh

you know

take your locking heads off spin around

nor a couple of times

and uh you know just to get that precise

if it's slightly

either saying in a notch you know

wouldn't worry too much about it not a

biggie but uh

you know this one here is

spot on

well guys that's about all i'm going to

film on this one

just build her back up again covers on

engine mount on vacuum pump on whatever

bracketry there is and where and all

that carry on so this video has just

been really about you know the proper

way to tension

uh these type of belts with an unkeyed

cam

and to get it perfectly in time if you

don't do that it's not going to be

perfectly in time you know and you're

going to really really struggle putting

the belt on as i said but uh yeah so

engine mount on and all that carry on

there's a wee bit more work i have to do

to this car so uh i have to take the

front of it that needs connected

radiator

but uh

yeah but we'll get her uh we'll get her

back up again up and uh give her a

start up before go ahead without so

anyway that's it that's all i'm gonna

film said many thanks for watching all

the best and