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by sea and by air.
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This is incredible!
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I want to find out more about this island divided between two
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countries with an often troubled history.
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Yes, here's success - success, excellent!
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..and the mildly eccentric...
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I just keep getting offered more monkeys, you know.
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You would take more if you could? Yeah, absolutely.
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This is a land steeped in religious faith.
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What are you doing? Why barefoot?
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But in the 21st century,
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many here are embracing extraordinary changes.
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Who would have thought that homosexuality would unify Ireland?
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I mean, that's pretty amazing.
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On this last leg of my journey, I'm going to be travelling
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down the east coast to the great cities of Belfast and Dublin.
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eruption, of course.
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But the myths and the legends that surround this place
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are much more interesting.
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The main legend is that giants used this as a road, as a causeway,
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between Ireland and Scotland - which isn't many miles in that direction.
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And it's quite a convenient myth in many ways for many Protestants,
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particularly here in the north of Ireland, because it
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the UK or unite with the Republic of Ireland to form a United Ireland.
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Kate Burns is from one of the many communities in Northern Ireland that
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didn't suffer the pain of intense sectarianism during the Troubles.
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A few decades ago, jobs were scarce here
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and the island's population was in decline.
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Now there's tourism and fishing
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but Kate's also pioneering an unusual new industry.
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There's about 123 and it's been growing.
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About 123? Yeah, yeah.
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And are you...you're a new arrival?
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Well, I arrived in 1978.
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Oh, that's very recent. You only just got here, then!
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What was life like here during the Troubles?
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From a community perspective, we just didn't have - there just
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wasn't this division that there was on the mainland, even though
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Rathlin is stunning,
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but to keep this remote community alive in the 21st century,
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Kate and the other residents have had to be imaginative.
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So, Kate, where are we going?
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Right - this is quite a good place to get kelp.
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it's good for you and it's good to eat.
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Well, I would pay money for that as a snack, even as it is there. Mmm.
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What have you found?
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Now this is what I'm after today, this particular kind of kelp,
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which has got brown patches on it.
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Can you see those patches? Yes, yes.
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Those are the seeds.
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Really? And so what are you going to do with it?
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There's almost no negative impact on the environment from growing
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the superfood this way.
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Low in calories but rich in vitamins and minerals,
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Kate believes it's a foodstuff that could revolutionise
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the economy of this remote island, but growing seaweed could
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and can now produce between 60 and 80 tonnes of food a year.
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Her son Duncan helps run the farm.
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The kelp grows on more than a dozen ropes strung out across the sea.
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sustainably - it's got to be the future.
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Back on the mainland,
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I resumed my journey down the east coast, leaving Rathlin Island behind.
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I'm now going to head along the causeway coastal route
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Look at this place!
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This beautiful coast road has always been celebrated by locals.
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There's one hugely popular US TV series in particular that's
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making Northern Ireland's scenery internationally famous.
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This is it.
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It's called the Dark Hedges.
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Oh!
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Game Of Thrones is the international smash-hit TV series.
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It's shot in a former shipyard building in Belfast
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and at locations like this.
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We've got travellers coming from Asia
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to look at a road in Northern Ireland that's featured on a TV series.
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Where have you come from?
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California. California!
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People have really got into the whole world of
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Game Of Thrones, haven't they?
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Yeah, well, you know... It's a novelty.
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We don't have medieval, you know, castles and history and horses...
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Water, rain! Water, green!
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So what are the sort of key things that you think of
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when you thought of Northern Ireland?
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It's, er, I mean, Game Of Thrones definitely influences a lot of the people I work with.
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I work with a lot of nerds.
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I work at a software company
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so we have like, you know, comic-con day and dress-up day
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and stuff like that, so we always have characters walking around... From Game Of Thrones!
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I headed to Northern Ireland's capital city, Belfast -
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which for many outsiders still has a tricky reputation.
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Before I get into Belfast, there's something I wanted you to see.
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And that is...
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Bet there's nowhere to bloody park, though.
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Goodness me! A man with a lemur on his head.
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I met up with one of Belfast's leading comedians and satirists.
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Jake? Simon, welcome, welcome.
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Oh, I hate everybody.
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I have no respect for power, I have no respect for privilege,
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I have no respect for history.
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I have no respect for what's gone before.
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How would you describe Belfast today? Is this Belfast today?
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Yeah. This is Belfast. This is the Belfast I know.
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So my generation, when I was a younger man,
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we never came into the city centre.
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We always socialised in our own little camp. Why?
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Because it was dangerous. Because you could get shot.
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Very simple, very basic.
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And it's become busy and vibrant since.
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It's totally opened up.
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Since when?
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Started after the Good Friday Agreement. Started after peace.
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Started after we stopped shooting each other.
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Naturally, that's when things began to open up.
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Today, kids are coming into Belfast city centre, they're mixing,
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no-one gives a damn whether they're Protestant or Catholic.
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Now, this - this is a real shocker.
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This is one of the euphemistically named peace walls.
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A security wall that divides communities -
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this is a Loyalist community on this side
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and on the other side is a republican community.
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And they have to be kept apart.
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Marching bands like this one practice all year for the main event
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on July 12th, in which thousands parade through the streets.
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I met up with Michael Crosby,
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a long-standing member of the Pride of Ardoyne Flute Band.
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Now it's a street party?
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Give us a sense of the community here,
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that's quite a small area, I'm thinking.
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This is Glenbryn estate which we refer to as Loyalist Ardoyne.
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You have nationalist Ardoyne, so we refer to this as Loyalist Ardoyne.
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We have something like seven to eight streets.
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It's been through a lot of hard times during the Troubles.
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We've lost a lot of people in here,
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shot dead, whatever, through the Troubles.
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But we're a close-knit community.
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If you look down the street, you have houses that still have
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barbed wire in front of the windows. This is 2015.
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But, of course, a stone's throw away in nationalist Ardoyne,
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Catholics feel just as besieged.
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Celebrations for the 12th July kick off with huge bonfires
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lit all around the city the night before.
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Look at the size of that!
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But it feels intimidatory as well.
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What's curious, I suppose, is this sort of thing would never be
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tolerated in many other British cities.
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But here, still allowances are being made, have to be made,
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otherwise people would get very angry.
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Nationalist and Catholic symbols - like effigies of the Pope -
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can be burnt on the pyres.
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It can be deeply upsetting to Catholics.
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It felt strange to be in Belfast on the 12th. It's not a normal weekend.
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Many people in the city have no interest in the event
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and leave for a holiday.
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On the Glenbryn estate, they're about to light their giant bonfire.
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The flag of my country is the Union Jack and the Ulster flag.
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But putting it up there isn't just another country - that's the enemy, isn't it?
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Yeah. And it still feels that way? Yeah.
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The whole scene is completely surreal for me.
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Many people here feel their culture, identity,
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and survival is under threat, even though recent polls show that
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most Catholics in Northern Ireland also want to stay part of the UK.
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What is your ultimate concern?
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I hope in my generation,
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when I'm dead and buried, that this country is still British.
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And my grandkids can still go to school and express our culture
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like I'm doing tonight, having a few beers.
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What a scene.
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It's really sad to hear the fear,
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actually, the concern
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that people here have about the loss of their culture,
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They don't see it that way.
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They see their position under threat.
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It's easy to judge this community for not moving on,
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but many died here during the Troubles
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and I could sympathise with their reluctance to abandon traditions.
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There's also high unemployment here.
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Their British identity gives a sense of pride.
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It was the morning of the 12th
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and members of the Protestant Orange Order were matching through the centre of Belfast.
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Don't knock it and don't try and take it away from them,
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unless you're going to give them something to believe in.
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So here comes the Pride of Ardoyne
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and they're getting quite a reception from the crowd.
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I spotted Michael.
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Michael. Michael! Can we come with you?
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The war memorial's just there.
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Yup, the people who fought the two world wars and Afghanistan and Iraq.
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And here. Yeah, and here, yeah.
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That's really interesting, cos as outsiders,
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we can perhaps forget that people here, your community,
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For them, it commemorates a tragic time in their history.
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I headed back to the Ardoyne area of Belfast
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and met up with Catholic priest Father Gary Donegan.
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weekend as a time of celebration.
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How do you see it?
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For us, it's a time where people in the community
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generally are under siege.
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people have been drinking, people have been taking
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all sorts of substance abuse on both sides of the community
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and you've got the perfect storm then for a possible riot or public disturbance.
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I re-joined the parade.
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from taking their flags home past the Catholic area up ahead.
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So they're singing, if you can't hear, "We want to go home."
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What are you feeling about what's up ahead?
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I'm nervous.
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It wasn't long before violence erupted.
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Come on, we better go back.
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Already, instantly - my God, bottles are being chucked, hoods are coming up.
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We need to move back out of the way.
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Go back. Go, go, go.
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So we've now come round behind the police line.
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I think the barricade is up ahead.
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To me, as an outsider, it all felt bizarre and faintly absurd.
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These local Catholic residents watch from afar.
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The police seem to think they might get it from both sides,
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but the rioters - this year at least - were all Loyalists.
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Incoming!
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An officer has just been hit just there.
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My God! They're having to drag him away.
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of the fundamental issues that are dividing the society.
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So there is now management of stalemate.
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And there have got to be advances made in bringing communities
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together and integrating them,
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getting them to live together.
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It's going to take a long time, but this situation here,
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this is a small part of the story of Northern Island
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Even just a few streets away, life continued as usual.
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For the majority of people living in Belfast,
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sectarianism and tribal conflict is largely a thing of the past.
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I'm off to summer school!
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Linda Ervine come from a family of leading Unionists,
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but she's become a champion of the Irish language and a teacher.
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almost, here in Belfast.
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So it's quite unusual that you started to learn
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and love the language, because that's the standard view
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of Gaelic Irish speakers, that they would be Catholic.
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Yeah. And some people would regard the language as something divisive,
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something that's saying, you know, that you're nationalist,
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that you're in favour of an all-Ireland, for instance.
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One of the things I don't want to do is I don't want to go down the road
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of "We're taking it back" - there's enough of that in Northern Ireland.
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What we always wanted to do was just take our place within the Irish language community.
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Why do you think so many people are now wanting to learn Irish?
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So it's kind of strange. It can totally change your outlook
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and I think the work that Linda has done and is doing
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and the work that's happening in east Belfast is miles ahead,
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streets ahead, in terms of community relations.
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Everything focuses on difference.
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And, for me, all we do is, you know,
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we're not interested in we'll have 50% Catholics and 50% Protestants - we're offering a language.
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Come and learn a language.
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And we don't take a note of whether you're Catholic or Protestant
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cos I'm not interested.
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I'm interested in people who want to learn the language.
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And that's what we need to do in Northern Ireland, bring
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people together in a way that they can meet, integrate and something
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that interests them, rather than focusing on how they're different.
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This is home, so to travel to part of my own country
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and I'm heading south, continuing my journey.
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I travelled down the east coast, crossed the border
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into the Republic of Ireland and headed towards the town of Drogheda.
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In 1649, English forces under Oliver Cromwell attacked
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and took Drogheda under an epic siege and battle.
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But what exactly happened during the attack is still being
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argued about to this day.
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Tom Reilly is a local historian who has made an extremely
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detailed study of first-hand accounts of the period.
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On the wall, yes. Oh, the wall, I see.
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In 1649, Cromwell and his Puritan supporters
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had just overthrown King Charles I.
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Then Cromwell turned his attention to Ireland and Drogheda,
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a vital port that was supporting the King.
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These are the medieval town walls.
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Old Drogheda here. Yeah. You're inside the town walls.
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So, if you were standing here, 1649, about five o'clock,
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you would hear psalms being sung. You'd be walking on bodies
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and you'd want to run,
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because Cromwell is coming up with a bodyguard
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What happened after that is what is still disputed today.
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Well, like everybody is still being taught,
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I was effectively told that Cromwell, this monster, this ogre,
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this blacker than black individual
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came to my town and killed, essentially, all the civilians in it.
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Cromwell tightened the English grip on the rest of Ireland.
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It was another 250 years before Ireland achieved independence.
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organised by Sinn Fein, the republican political party.
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It was nearly 100 years
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since the Easter, 1916 uprising that led to Irish independence,
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and they were beginning a series of events to mark the occasion.
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Today, Sinn Fein was staging a re-enactment
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of the funeral, attended by party leaders.
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It included a reading from a fiery speech by Patrick Pearse,
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a nationalist leader at the time.
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"We pledge to Ireland our love
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"and we pledge to English rule in Ireland our hate.
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"Life springs from death
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"and from the graves of patriot men and women, spring living nations.
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"They think they have provided against everything.
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"But the fools, the fools, the fools!
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"They have left us our Fenian dead
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"and while Ireland holds these graves,
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"Ireland, unfree,
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I suppose it's the events, the historic events,
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and what's happened here that has inspired this sort of fervency in the extremes.
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The sense I get here, though,
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is there is still passion for nationalism.
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There is still passion for a united Ireland,
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but there's not the fire.
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Things are changing. Things are developing.
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But the dream of the united Ireland,
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I think, is gone, certainly for this generation.
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The Irish government had held its own ceremony just a few hours earlier.
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We met up in the heart of Dublin.
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So we have come to one of the most important, well, areas,
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This was where all telecommunications,
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the telegraph came, all mail came. The only way you could control
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the realms beyond your own front door was through this building.
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If you could destroy this,
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you could basically destroy the stranglehold Britain had.
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On Easter Monday, 1916,
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score of rebels approached the General Post Office.
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One of their leaders was Manchan's great grand-uncle,
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known as The O'Rahilly.
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Despite being relatively untrained,
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they caught the guards unawares, and seized the building.
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So, when they came in here through the doors,
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they knew they were most likely not going to leave.
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and heavy artillery into Dublin.
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A Royal Navy gunboat sailed up the River Liffey.
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The British responded with overwhelming force.
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The gunboat was dropping bombs
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and eventually it starts dropping bombs on top of this building.
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The roof goes on fire and they decide,
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"run down Henry Street into Moore Street,"
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but right at the edge there, there's this whole barricade,
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with a Lewis sub-machine gun
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and my great grandad, The O'Rahilly,
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he manages to crawl into a doorway here, on what was called Moore Lane.
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It's now called O'Rahilly Parade after him.
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And, slowly, he dies there.
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or has it just been what it is? Yeah.
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Because the fight was so glorious, because it was led by poets
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and leaders and idealists, it was a glorious fight
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and then we became infused by the myth of that fight and that
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did have bad results.
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That led to the whole Northern Ireland question.
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The strength and passion of the fight clearly was so potent that it
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was like an intoxicating dream that has dizzied us all for a century.
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And I worry, now, 2016,
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that we're going to mire ourselves in the past.
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Our only chance now, as a nation, as a world, is to put behind us these
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ridiculous dreams of nationhood and struggles for nationality we had
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and to try and become pan-global, sort of, human-focused.
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The Catholic church was central to the identity of the new nation.
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The future Archbishop of Dublin even helped draft the constitution.
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Some say the Republic became almost a colony of the Vatican.
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Is it OK to come in? Thank you.
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The curtain raiser for the festival was
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a film about the campaign for equal marriage.
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I was with film-maker Anna Roberts
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and festival organiser Ger Philpott for a gala screening.
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00:46:49,320 --> 00:46:52,720
It feels like this is such a colossal event in Irish history.
364
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It is. The nation was unified. Yeah.
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And when you see the response of people on the screen and why,
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it's amazing and it doesn't get tired.
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00:47:01,640 --> 00:47:05,520
I've watched it quite a few times because it reminds me
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of what happened that day.
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The Yes vote won by a landslide.
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CHEERS
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You've lived through quite an extraordinary evolution,
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transition, whatever you want to call it, in Ireland's culture,
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in its society.
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Homosexuality was profoundly illegal here until very recently.
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It was pretty awful. I was a criminal in my country.
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I certainly shed a lot of tears on the 23rd of May
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when the results were coming through.
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Was it a victory for your community or was it actually a defeat
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for the Church and for the old way of doing things and the old ideas?
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I think it was a defeat for the Church in many respects
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and I think because of the way society has unfolded here,
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and the Catholic Church and the child sexual abuse issues,
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people said, "Well, actually, no, thank you.
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If the Irish have that fundamental belief in the Church taken
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away from them, is there a risk that they lose a sense of their identity?
386
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No, I don't think so.
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After you.
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The Church itself says, "We're in trouble.
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"We've lost a grip on the young, particularly."
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It just feels like the tide has changed in Ireland.
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The sense of what it is to be Irish has moved away from being,
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"Well, we are Catholic. We are traditional,"
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I wonder what our identity is in Ireland at the moment, actually.
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I think we're kind of being absorbed into this globalised,
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commercial world, where, really, do we have an identity that we can...?
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00:51:35,280 --> 00:51:38,320
They've swapped Catholicism for consumerism?
397
00:51:52,120 --> 00:51:55,360
In just a generation, it's been both a poor European backwater
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and a tiger economy.
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00:51:57,480 --> 00:52:01,680
It's been devoutly religious and now commercialised and globalised.
400
00:52:03,080 --> 00:52:06,960
As the world changes around them, what values will people hold on to?
401
00:52:08,640 --> 00:52:10,920
I'm heading south out of Dublin now.
402
00:52:10,920 --> 00:52:14,920
I am near the end of my journey around the island of Ireland.
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But I've still got a couple more things
404
00:52:18,320 --> 00:52:20,120
I'd like to see before I finish.
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It's one of the most beautiful corners of Europe.
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because I'm heading to a secret sanctuary.
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00:53:17,280 --> 00:53:19,920
Willie Heffernan lives in this remote sanctuary with
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00:53:19,920 --> 00:53:23,160
a menagerie of rather unusual rescued animals.
409
00:53:23,160 --> 00:53:26,440
So, this is your bit of paradise by the looks of it.
410
00:53:52,160 --> 00:53:54,600
There's Charlie. Charlie!
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00:53:54,600 --> 00:53:56,320
Yeah, he likes his treats.
412
00:53:56,320 --> 00:53:58,640
He's an old-timer, you know?
413
00:53:58,640 --> 00:54:01,960
Charlie is a black capuchin monkey who was used in laboratory
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00:54:01,960 --> 00:54:03,640
experiments for more than a decade.
415
00:54:29,640 --> 00:54:32,600
I know that might come as a surprise, but... Incoming!
416
00:54:34,040 --> 00:54:35,440
Oh, nice.
417
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Charlie and the crabstick!
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He takes in primates from around the world,
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most of which have been used in laboratory experiments.
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He's an old-timer, you know?
421
00:55:22,160 --> 00:55:24,240
Charlie's still on the crabstick.
422
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He took me for a proper introduction with Charlie.
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So we're landing on the island? Yeah. Excellent.
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This is Charlie's and Sam's island.
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There we go. Look at this. Aren't they wonderful?
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So they were completely institutionalised?
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And controlled, down to the very grape, the very peanut.
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You set them free? Yeah.
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Well, the monkeys tell me that every day.
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00:57:23,440 --> 00:57:25,360
A monkey sanctuary is the last thing
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00:57:25,360 --> 00:57:28,120
I expected to find on my travels around Ireland.
432
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Jesus, I'll need a pint after all this!
433
00:57:32,160 --> 00:57:34,080
He might be unconventional,
434
00:57:34,080 --> 00:57:36,840
but the thing about Willie is that he just really cares
435
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and in that, surely, there's a lesson for us all.
436
00:57:41,280 --> 00:57:44,720
It's quite a blustery day, but beautiful.
437
00:57:44,720 --> 00:57:47,960
I'm getting to the end of my journey around Ireland now.
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But look at that view!
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00:58:29,800 --> 00:58:32,800
With the Open University, you can further explore Ireland's
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00:58:32,800 --> 00:58:34,840
rich history and culture.
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00:58:34,840 --> 00:58:36,960
To find out more, go to our website
442
00:58:36,960 --> 00:58:39,400
and follow the links to the Open University.
38002
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