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Japan. Michael, welcome to Japan, a
railway paradise.
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Its huge population spread over long
islands lived by its railways. It's like
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I'm driving.
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My new adventure takes me through the
land that launched the high -speed
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I love Shinkansen.
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Where millions of journeys are made each
day through some of the most bustling
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stations on Earth.
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Busy city.
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I'll ride Japan's vast railway network.
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To uncover a land of bold innovation.
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Haven't quite got the hang of it yet.
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A place of enduring tradition, volatile
geology and remarkable people. Join
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me on an excursion like no other. I'm
too excited to sit down.
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My excursion continues on Kyushu, the
most southerly and westerly of Japan's
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main islands.
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Japan is one of the world's greatest
manufacturing economies, and yet it
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out entirely on the industrial
revolution that transformed the West
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mid -18th and mid -19th centuries.
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I will travel on Kyushu Island's newest
Shinkansen railway to the port of
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Nagasaki.
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one of two cities destroyed by an atom
bomb, to hear how a Scottish trader, one
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of the foreigners excluded by Japan,
played an important role in its
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industrialization and political change.
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Visiting Japan opens my European eyes to
a distant country with a wholly
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different culture and view of life.
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In planning my journey across Kyushu
Island, I had a choice of over 20 rail
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lines. and more than 500 stations.
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Having begun in Kagoshima in the south,
I'm travelling along the west of the
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island, whose history has been shaped by
being closest to foreign influences.
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Later I'll reach the largest island,
Honshu, and arrive in Hiroshima.
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This morning I begin with a nine -mile
hop on a local commuter train.
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Safety depends on procedures that are
rigorously followed. In Japan, a train
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driver acknowledges his every thought
and action with a point of the finger.
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That emphasizes that he is constantly
following procedure to the letter.
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From the station at Chikugo, I make my
way a few miles east to the agricultural
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city of Yame.
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In the mountainous southern Fukuoka
region on the Yabe River, with a
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of 38 ,000, it's famous across Japan for
its production of tea, one of the
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nation's favourite drinks.
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In Britain, We invest tea with
extraordinary recuperative properties.
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After any slight misfortune, a friend
will recommend that we have a nice cuppa
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to make us feel better. But it's served
entirely without ceremony.
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In Japan, tea occupies entirely a
different position. It has evolved over
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centuries from being the exclusive
preserve of the privileged.
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It is held in respect.
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and its serving is accompanied by a
complex ritual.
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I approach the subject with due
deference.
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I'm in the tea capital of Kyushu.
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There are about 15 ,000 growers in the
Yame area.
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This tea factory, run by the Oishi
family, opened in 1940.
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Pierrick Groselin, who's French, is the
sales director.
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Hello, Pierrick.
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Oh, hello.
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What a pleasure to see you. Welcome in
Yamรฉ.
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So you're picking the leaves today? Yes,
you're right at the time of the new
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harvest. Would you mind helping a little
bit, removing this?
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What, a roller's pack?
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Rolling it away, slowly, delicately.
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You have been shedding them for two
weeks, making the leaves greener,
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a superior quality.
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The leaves under here look absolutely
superb.
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Which leaves make the best tea?
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It would be just the very top bud and
the two following leaves, taken like
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making the best tea of all kind.
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We associate tea with both China and
Japan.
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When did it arrive in Japan?
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The very first seed arrived like 800
years ago through the island of Kyushu,
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through the port of Hirado, which is a
little bit north of Nagasaki, and then
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after, traveled up.
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to the emperor in Kyoto.
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Did the Japanese make tea in the same
way as the Chinese?
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It would be slightly different, since
instead of firing it, we are steaming
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keeping the tea green, and that's why
Japanese green tea is famous worldwide.
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What happens at a tea ceremony?
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Usually, this is a gathering of guests
with a tea master.
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It's a combination of tradition.
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and like spirituality in order to enjoy
tea in a relaxing atmosphere.
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00:06:13,990 --> 00:06:18,250
What is it about the climate here that
makes it so good for tea growing?
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Making good tea is about having a good
soil.
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We had like a very active volcano called
Asosan just nearby here, making the
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soil rich.
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In the mountain area of Yame, you have
also like a natural mist, fog covering
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every morning.
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making it a natural shading, making the
tea leaves greener, softer, more
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delicious.
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I've heard of different sorts of green
tea. For which one is Yame famous?
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The most renowned, the best green tea in
all Japan.
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Traditional, authentic Yame Gyokuro,
harvested.
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By hand, which is the GI, geographical
indication register, in the same list
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for example, the beef from Kobe.
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Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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And so that is a premium tea. That would
be very expensive.
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How much would you pay for that?
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It could be priced between, like, 400
and 500 pounds a kilo.
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Ooh, that is very, very special indeed.
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A good Bordeaux would be cheaper.
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A good Bordeaux or a bottle of
champagne, too?
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The award -winning factory blends green
tea from its own fields and from other
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local farms.
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Loose leaf and powdered varieties are
processed, including Sencha and Matcha.
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Thierry, we're surrounded by this
magnificent aroma of green tea.
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We have a lot of machinery here.
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What goes on? What is the process?
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So, the main purpose of this factory
will be about...
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to refine the tea, meaning sorting the
different type of tea and also drying
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decreasing the level of moisture or
increasing the level of umami flavor in
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Umami. Interesting word. It's coming
from Japan, but they use it all around
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world now.
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It's pretty noisy in here, but what do
we start with?
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The big blender.
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Blending for 20 minutes.
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Sorting. The big leaves from the small
leaves. Small leaves go on a different
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line. And what happens there?
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So here would be about color sorting.
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You have the green leaves, but also the
white stem.
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So this machine, using air pressure, for
removing the white stem from the green
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leaves. Can you use the stems?
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Definitely, yeah. It would be a
different tea called cookie chop, the
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After, going to these two machines,
which would be the dryers.
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Then moving to this one, which would be
air sorting.
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Removing the very small leaves, small
particles, mainly used in the tea bags
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sold in the supermarket, for example.
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So you do every kind of tea here,
really? From the best to the most basic?
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Exactly.
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Japan's green tea industry is worth over
ยฃ3 billion, with around 70 ,000 tonnes
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consumed here each year.
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It's said to contain a host of health
benefits, and sales across the world
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increased dramatically over the last
decade.
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In the factory tea room, I'm invited to
taste the company's matcha, Japanese for
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powdered tea, with the owner's son,
Executive Director Kenichi Oishi.
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Oishi -san.
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Hello, I'm Michael.
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Thank you. What a pleasure.
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Thank you.
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This is your family's business, isn't
it?
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Yes. How many generations?
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Fourth generation.
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You're the fourth generation.
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Pierrick prepares our tea, mixing the
bright green matcha powder with boiling
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water, using a traditional bamboo whisk
known as a chasen to create a foam.
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Moving naturally.
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From the left to the right.
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And then gathering from the side to the
middle.
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And here it is.
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Yamemachi.
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That is a splendid tea. It's full of
deliciousness and fragrance.
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Wonderful tea. Thank you very much.
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Around 35 miles west, at the hot springs
resort of Takeo Onsen, I'm bound for
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the port city of Nagasaki on Japan's
superfast Shinkansen bullet train.
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As a rail explorer in Japan, you can
record your route by collecting eki, or
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station stamps, each with a unique
design.
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They were introduced in the 1930s to
encourage travel.
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and you can build up a great souvenir.
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Kyushu Island is extraordinarily well
served by Japanese railways. Here's a
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of the network.
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Every sort of train.
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Shinkansen, diesel, electric, standard
gauge and narrow gauge.
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And the train spotter is well catered
for.
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you can look out for all these different
models.
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I just saw the luxurious tourist train,
the 36 plus 3, and here is the Komome.
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It means seagull, and it's one of the
newest variants of the Shinkansen.
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I'm on Kyushu's latest Shinkansen line,
opened in 2022.
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and its trains travel at an impressive
260 kilometres per hour.
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The Komomo trains are fresh and modern.
There's much better signage than before.
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There's more legroom. We have these
beautiful woods.
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People say there's no need for first
class, because even in economy, you're
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getting the top experience.
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How magnificent!
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This new station is a wonderful gateway
to the Bay of Nagasaki, city of history
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and of legend.
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On Kyushu's west coast, Nagasaki lies on
a deep, narrow harbour at the mouth of
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the Urukami River, surrounded by steep
hills.
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During the Second World War, on August
9, 1945,
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it was devastated when the United States
dropped an atomic bomb.
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Up to 70 ,000 people lost their lives
and around a third of its buildings were
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destroyed.
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Over the following decade, it was
rebuilt.
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and today the thriving port city has
over 400 ,000 residents.
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To appreciate the topography, I board a
cable car from just west of the city
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centre to rise more than a thousand feet
to the top of Mount Inasa.
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Nagasaki is to me surprisingly glamorous
for a major port and an industrial hub.
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The same beautiful mountains rising
deeply from the water's edge that
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the inlet make it a picture postcard.
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Arigatou.
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Portuguese merchants came here in the
mid -16th century.
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They established it as a trading port in
1571, and the city grew around it.
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Because of the mountains soaring above
the high -rise buildings, I find it just
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about possible to think what Nagasaki
was like centuries ago, maybe when the
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Portuguese first arrived.
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You can see how attractive they would
have found it.
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Almost 300 years later, in 1859, Thomas
Blake Glover, an enterprising young Scot
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from Aberdeen, disembarked here.
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Then, in his early 20s, he would become
one of Japan's most famous foreigners.
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Across the bay, his former house is now
a popular museum.
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I'll explore his remarkable story and
the trading history of this city with
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author and historian Brian Burke
Gaffney.
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Brian, I am thrilled to be in Nagasaki.
I'm just stunned by its topography.
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It's the first time for me here, but it
strikes me as one of the world's great
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ports. It really is one of the most
beautiful, and it's deep in the middle,
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surrounded by mountains, and so
protected on all sides. So right from
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Portuguese period, Nagasaki has been
chosen as an ideal port of call by
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00:16:23,410 --> 00:16:27,080
ships. While I've been in Japan, I've
learned that it was closed to the
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world for two and a half centuries, with
a bit of an exception at Nagasaki.
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What was the exception?
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Well, the shogunate took a very harsh
attitude towards Christianity, and the
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Portuguese were dismissed from Japan.
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But they wanted to continue the trade.
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under their control.
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And so they allowed the Chinese and the
Dutch, who were Protestant rather than
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Catholic, to continue a modicum of trade
for more than two centuries.
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Nagasaki was literally the only
officially open port in Japan.
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When Japan eventually bowed to pressure
from Western countries and opened up to
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foreign trade in the mid -19th century,
Nagasaki flourished further.
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At 23, Thomas Glover set up his first
business here.
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He went on to play a key role in the
country's industrial revolution.
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In 1863, he built this villa on the
city's Minami Yamate hillside
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overlooking the harbour.
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Well, Thomas Glover certainly knew how
to pick a view, didn't he? What a
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00:17:28,470 --> 00:17:30,070
splendid house. Lovely, isn't it?
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It's superb.
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What would have attracted this young,
very young Abedonian to come to
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I think he saw in Nagasaki great
opportunities and also the relationships
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he established here with Japanese
samurai at the time convinced him that
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Nagasaki was the place to be.
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These young samurai went on to be the
leaders of Japanese politics and
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industry. Now, how did he pull that off?
How did he develop these relationships
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with the samurai?
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He spoke Japanese.
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And so it's obvious that he took
interest towards Japanese culture and
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just his Scottish charm. He was more
successful than many other of the
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and American merchants who were coming
to Nagasaki.
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What businesses did he get into?
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Thomas Glover started, like other
merchants, importing fabrics from India
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from China and exporting Japanese
agricultural products, etc. But
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saw the potential for coal mining, so he
developed the Takashima coal mine,
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which in fact you can almost see from
his house here. Then he built a ship
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repair dock close to Nagasaki.
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He used engines and boilers to bring
ships. up on a slip dock. So this was
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really the beginning of the modern
shipbuilding industry.
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And the list just goes on and on. Please
tell me that he had a connection with
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the railways. He did have a connection
with the railways. In 1865, Thomas
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brought a miniature locomotive to
Nagasaki and did a demonstration and ran
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along the waterfront. And this would
have been the first time for Japanese
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people to understand the huge
possibilities of steam locomotion.
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In 1908, Glover was the first foreigner
to be awarded Japan's highest civilian
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honour, the Order of the Rising Sun, for
his contribution to the country's
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industrialisation. He died three years
later, aged 73, and was buried here in
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Nagasaki.
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Quite close to where Thomas Glover had
established a ship repair facility,
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Mitsubishi established an enormous
shipbuilding yard.
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Glasgow had once been shipbuilder to the
world. The title passed eventually to
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Japan with a little help from an
Aberdonian.
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Amongst Thomas Glover's significant
legacies was the Takashima coal mine,
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intriguingly is accessed by boat.
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I'm travelling 11 miles south to the
extraordinary island of Hashima in the
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China Sea.
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Being on this boat enables me to
appreciate the vastness of the inlet at
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Nagasaki, its shipyards, its ship
repair, its industries, its urban
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thrall, a massive city facing the
outside world.
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My trip promises a glimpse into the
early days of this country's economic
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success.
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Japan has produced some coal for
centuries, but its industrialisation
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high -grade product that could be
extracted in vast quantities.
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And it was found under the sea bed and
could be accessed with some difficulty
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from the offshore islands of Takashima,
where Glover invested, and Hashima,
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to which I'm bound now.
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The island...
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that covers just 16 acres, was abandoned
in 1974 when its coal reserves ran out.
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It's been preserved as a part of Japan's
industrial heritage, an intriguing
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sight for visitors.
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My first impression of Hashima is that
it's a rather forbidding place.
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Amongst all this natural beauty, the
incongruous high -rise buildings
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that humanity was crammed together here.
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to meet the needs of Japanese
manufacturing.
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Thank you.
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00:22:03,250 --> 00:22:09,110
In 1890, Hashima was bought by the
Japanese Mitsubishi Commercial Company.
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Founded as a shipping company, it soon
diversified into mining to provide coal
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for its fleet of steamships and for
steel production.
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00:22:19,430 --> 00:22:23,260
Initially, Japanese miners settled on
the island with their families.
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From 1910 to 1945, forced labour was
brought from Korea, which was
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occupied by Japan.
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00:22:33,100 --> 00:22:38,740
Hashima is one of a number of sites
connected to Japan's industrialisation
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has been granted by UNESCO World
Heritage Status.
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00:22:42,480 --> 00:22:44,500
This has caused controversy.
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because the Republic of Korea is not
satisfied with Japan's explanation of
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00:22:50,580 --> 00:22:55,460
use of enforced labour in horrendous
conditions in the mine.
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00:22:56,120 --> 00:23:01,020
The first half of the 20th century casts
a very long shadow.
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The mine reached its peak during the
post -war period. In the late 1950s,
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00:23:07,260 --> 00:23:11,060
isolated mining community had grown to
over 5 ,000 people.
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00:23:11,730 --> 00:23:15,750
Minoru Kinoshita was born on the island
and now worked as a guide.
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00:23:16,090 --> 00:23:18,950
This is one of the most extraordinary
places I've ever been.
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Describe to me what this was.
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00:23:51,710 --> 00:23:56,410
Having gone down 606 meters, you then go
out under the seabed. Is that right?
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What sort of coal is under there?
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00:24:28,250 --> 00:24:29,930
This coal is used to make iron.
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00:24:34,950 --> 00:24:40,370
The temperature
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00:24:40,370 --> 00:24:46,870
is over 35 degrees Celsius and the
humidity is
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00:24:46,870 --> 00:24:53,050
95%. So I worked in a sauna for 8
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00:24:53,050 --> 00:24:54,050
hours.
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Across 84 years, this mine produced more
than 16 million tonnes of coal from
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under the sea.
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00:25:04,540 --> 00:25:10,400
Slag was used to reclaim land, making
space for apartment blocks, a school, a
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00:25:10,400 --> 00:25:12,520
hospital and even a cinema.
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00:25:13,140 --> 00:25:16,500
High sea walls were built to protect the
island's coastline.
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00:25:17,280 --> 00:25:23,000
Minoru lived with his parents and sister
here until he was 12, and I'm surprised
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00:25:23,000 --> 00:25:25,320
that he has fond memories of his
childhood.
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00:25:26,480 --> 00:25:29,780
What an astonishing place. What a huge
ruin.
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00:25:41,060 --> 00:25:44,180
Why were you born here? Why were you
living here?
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00:26:14,630 --> 00:26:21,030
Your dad didn't like his job, but you
seem quite happy about your childhood
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00:26:21,030 --> 00:26:22,030
memories.
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00:26:35,680 --> 00:26:42,300
You have been a wonderful guide. Thank
you.
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On this part of my journey, I've seen
contrast between the sparsely populated
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00:27:04,820 --> 00:27:10,460
countryside, where tea grows in
picturesque plantations, and the
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00:27:10,460 --> 00:27:14,860
of people and manpower required to
produce high -volume coal.
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00:27:15,440 --> 00:27:21,480
It's striking that Japan, that
industrialised so late, is still a
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00:27:21,480 --> 00:27:24,180
power in contrast to Britain.
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00:27:24,880 --> 00:27:28,480
Japan brings precision to everything
that it does.
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00:27:29,130 --> 00:27:31,630
including the making of a cup of tea.
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00:27:31,910 --> 00:27:36,750
And perhaps for that reason, it is still
a fabricator to the world.
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Next time, with cobalt in it, will it
always be blue?
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00:27:41,590 --> 00:27:42,590
Yes.
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We have 300 kinds of blue.
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00:27:49,210 --> 00:27:52,050
Changing the entire country is tough.
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00:27:52,870 --> 00:27:56,150
But as mayor, you can change a city.
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This answer is delightful.
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00:28:01,880 --> 00:28:05,260
You sense that you will emerge a new
man.
28561
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