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Japan. Michael, welcome to Japan, a
railway paradise.
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Its huge population spread over long
islands live by its railway.
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It's like I'm driving.
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My new adventure takes me through the
land that launched the high -speed
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I love Shinkansen.
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Where millions of journeys are made each
day through some of the most bustling
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stations on Earth.
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Busy city.
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I'll ride Japan's vast railway network.
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To uncover a land of bold innovation.
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Haven't quite got the hang of it yet.
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A place of enduring tradition, volatile
geology and remarkable people. Join
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me on an excursion like no other. I'm
too excited to sit down.
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I'm travelling by rail across Kyushu,
the southernmost of Japan's main
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To continue my journey, I've returned to
Kagoshima Chuo Station, the southern
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terminus of the island's high -speed
rail network.
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Always exciting to see a Shinkansen,
that long jet -star nose designed to
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up the wall of air as it zooms into a
tunnel.
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I'll be travelling on a bullet train,
the icon of the Japanese railway, to
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explore Kyushu's fascinating history.
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Kyushu makes up about a tenth of Japan's
land mass.
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and the population is around a tenth as
well.
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I began in the south, at Kagoshima, and
I'm now exploring the western side of
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the island, whose character has long
been influenced by its location, which
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exposes it to Asia and Europe.
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I'll then travel via the western tip of
Honshu Island to end at Hiroshima.
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The revered position of Emperor of Japan
has existed for many centuries.
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But across history from time to time, it
has been largely symbolic, with true
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political power exercised by others.
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On this part of my journey, I will look
at the regime of those military rulers
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known as the Shoguns, who isolated Japan
from the outside world for two and a
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half centuries.
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and at how, at the end of that period,
with the change of government, Japan
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reopened and embraced technology from
abroad.
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There are many models of Shinkansen or
bullet train.
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And on this journey, an N700 series
zooms from Kagoshima up the West Coast.
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Japan's high -speed trains, the
Shinkansen, had been operating since
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when lines were opened into Tokyo.
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But it is a truly national project, and
now there are about 3 ,000 kilometres
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of line.
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Some of the 21st century additions
included the line down to the most
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station at Kagoshima, and it was a very
difficult project. It ran through the
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mountains. And nearly all of it is in
tunnel.
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Only very occasionally does the train
stick its long nose into the daylight.
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And for that reason, the line has been
nicknamed the Mole.
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My journey north takes just 25 minutes,
a speedy trip to a destination noted for
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its slower pace of life.
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The exit will be on the left side of the
train.
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Passengers going to Isatsu Orange
Railway, please change trains here at
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Thank you.
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I'm alighting at Izumi Station.
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The architecture and decoration draw
inspiration from the region's fame as
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the winter home for over 10 ,000 cranes.
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They migrate here each year, largely
from Siberia.
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It's also the boarding point for boats
to the Amakusa Islands, which sit off
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western coast of Kyushu.
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They're made up of two large and many
small islands.
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Celebrated for their lavish greenery and
fascinating geology, they're designated
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a geopark in recognition of their
natural beauty, local communities and
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heritage.
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I'm visiting Shimoshima, the largest
island in the Amakusa archipelago.
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Hello! Hello!
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What a wonderful welcome!
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Ladies, thank you for your welcome.
Hello.
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Oh, such beautiful costumes.
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Same colour.
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They're spectacularly dressed to perform
a traditional Amakusa Island dance with
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the Ushibuka Haya.
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The women wish the fishermen, their
husbands, lovers and sons, a safe
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Lovely, cheerful music.
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The gestures, I think, replicate
movements on a boat, boarding nets,
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pulling rope.
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All those ropes!
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All those ropes!
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It's so compelling that I can't resist
joining in.
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Situated on the outer edge of the
Japanese archipelago, these islands were
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the first port of call for foreign ships
and the gateway through which new ideas
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and influences entered Japan.
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That included Christianity.
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Today, around 2 % of the Japanese
population, roughly 3 million people,
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as Christian.
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Christianity arrived on these shores
with Portuguese missionaries in 1549,
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and hundreds of thousands were
converted.
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And the contagion that it represented
was one of the reasons why the shoguns,
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the military rulers of Japan, excluded
foreigners and banned foreign travel.
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Amazingly, in this remote place,
Christianity survived in secret.
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to rise again when the prohibition was
lifted.
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To hear about the island's Roman
Catholic heritage and the group known as
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Christians, I'm meeting Saki Urakami, an
Amakusa Island resident and guide.
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This is such a beautiful restaurant.
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The setting is amazing on the water with
the greenery beyond. Yeah, it is.
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This place is very interesting because
of the history of Christianity.
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Why do you think the Shoguns banned
Christianity?
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I think there are several reasons, but
one of them, like Shogun, he
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was the top of the society at the
moment.
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But under the Christianity, everyone is
equal.
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And so Shogun realized that Christianity
was a threat for his
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administration. And the Christians who
remained here during the ban,
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how did they behave?
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00:09:53,960 --> 00:09:58,780
Of course, people called hidden
Christians, people
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disguised themselves as Buddhist or
Shinto believers.
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There's Shinto, like, a festival, and
they visit the Buddhist temple.
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Arigato.
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00:10:18,270 --> 00:10:20,990
Thank you. Beautiful.
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This is spectacular, isn't it?
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Well done, Chef.
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00:10:33,890 --> 00:10:36,750
During the time of the ban on
Christians,
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Did the other people, the Shinto and the
Buddhist, sometimes inform against
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Catholics to the authorities, to the
shoguns?
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The government order to, you know,
inform if they find some
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questions. But here, never happened.
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Nobody did. Why is that?
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Because this Saketsu village is a
fishing village.
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So once you go out to the sea, you need
to support.
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your fellow fishermen.
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There's no time to care about the
differences in the religion.
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Because people have to trust each other
for their lives.
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Tell me about the island today.
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So three religions coexist.
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Catholic Church and Shinto Shrine and
Buddhist temples.
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Wow. Quite happily living with each
other.
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Yes, of course.
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There are several hundred Christians on
these islands today.
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One is Mr Yamashita, a fisherman.
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Yamashita -san.
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I'm Michael.
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How many generations of your family have
lived in Sakitsu?
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Were they fishermen too?
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And is it dangerous?
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In your boat. I'd love to see it,
please.
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Oh, that's very beautiful.
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How old is this, do you think?
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To me, it's
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amazing to find such Catholic faith in
Japan.
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That's a surprise to me.
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Would it be possible?
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to come aboard and have a spin on your
boat.
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Thank you.
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00:13:24,240 --> 00:13:27,280
Here is history in a postcard.
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00:13:27,720 --> 00:13:32,220
These beautiful traditional Japanese
houses with their distinctive roofs and
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tiles. And there, a church spire that
could be from England.
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With the cross above.
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The tiny harbour village of Sakitsu is
an important centre of Christianity.
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Worshippers attend what's nicknamed the
Church on the Sea.
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It's Roman Catholic, built in 1934.
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This is a pretty church.
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And a pretty good size, too.
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And... It wouldn't look out of place in
Europe or South America. It had all
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these gothic touches, pointy arches and
things like that.
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But one thing that makes it very
Japanese is that I had to remove my
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came in.
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And here on the floor, there are tatami
mats.
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To continue my journey, I've returned to
Kyushu Island to take a train from
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Mitsumi.
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What a beautiful station, with a steeple
and a cross on the exterior, and
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beautiful Japanese modernity inside.
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From here, I'm picking up a regional
train.
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A lovely, narrow gauge, one person
operated, diesel.
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It's a 50 minute journey up the western
coast of Kyushu and with such large
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windows there are glorious views.
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A great coastal railway journey.
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My next destination will be the city of
Kumamoto.
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As the Shinkansen was extended
southward, Services began to run into
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the 12th of March 2010.
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The city used the opportunity to promote
itself and invented a new mascot called
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Kumamon. He's a wide -eyed creature with
a cuddly belly.
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The Japanese love of the cute is known
as kawaii.
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But it goes beyond innocence and
sweetness.
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It ventures into the quirky, the
rebellious.
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Even the mildly erotic, it seeps into
fashion. It affects neighbouring
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countries. A valuable and persuasive
source of Japanese influence.
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I've come to Kumamoto to see its world
-famous castle.
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But before that, I hope to glimpse its
most celebrated, emblematic creature.
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Kumamon! How lovely to see you.
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Wow. What an honour.
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Kumamon has achieved celebrity status in
Japan.
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Why are you so famous?
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Oh, for your dancing.
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You know the way to the castle?
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Yeah. Let's go.
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Sayonara!
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Bye!
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Bye, Kumamoto!
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Kumamoto is Kyushu's third largest city
with around 750 ,000 inhabitants.
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It's also steeped in history, with one
of Japan's best -known and most
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significant castles.
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00:17:49,800 --> 00:17:54,920
In 2016, a massive earthquake caused
terrible damage to the city and the
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fortification. Restoration work costing
around ยฃ320 million is still underway.
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Hence the hard hat.
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In 1853 and 1854, United States naval
expeditions under the command of
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Perry threatened Japan with violence and
forced it to open itself to world
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trade. Forces within Japan, Notably, the
samurai Saigo Takamori from
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Satsuma toppled the shogun government in
what was known as the Meiji
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Restoration, Meiji being the name of the
emperor.
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00:18:32,360 --> 00:18:37,320
The new administration abolished
feudalism and began to modernize Japan.
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00:18:38,740 --> 00:18:44,000
America's gunboat diplomacy set in
motion the dramatic regime change which
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seen as the birth of modern Japan.
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00:18:46,700 --> 00:18:51,440
To hear about that turning point and the
celebrated figure of Saigo Takamori,
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the inspiration for the hero of the
Hollywood film The Last Samurai, I'm
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Professor of History Izumi Haragun.
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I'd love to hear about this great
personality, Saigo.
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00:19:06,100 --> 00:19:11,220
Saigo Takamori was born and bred in
Kagoshima.
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castle town.
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He came from lower samurai class but he
was very respected
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among young samurai and wise lord
Shimazu Nariakira
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selected him as secretary.
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00:19:28,870 --> 00:19:34,910
He recommended to learn about
parliamentary system and
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00:19:34,910 --> 00:19:40,850
constitution and educational reforms.
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00:19:41,610 --> 00:19:44,550
He was a great modernizer. Yes, he was a
modernizer.
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He opened railway age.
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He first objected railway construction
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00:19:55,290 --> 00:19:59,670
initially because it cost too much
money.
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00:20:00,410 --> 00:20:06,370
But eventually he approved railway
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construction.
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And you can come to...
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Kyushu by railway now.
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Indeed, indeed.
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Despite being a key figure in the new
modernizing government, the rapid pace
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00:20:20,950 --> 00:20:26,190
reform, which included the abolition of
the samurai class, proved too much for
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00:20:26,190 --> 00:20:32,870
Saigo. He resigned his post, rallied an
army of samurai from Satsuma, and rose
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against the government in what is now
called the Satsuma Rebellion.
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In one of its defining moments, he
placed Kumamoto Castle, the principal
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stronghold of government forces, under
siege for 52 days.
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And this castle was very, very strong,
very well prepared for siege.
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Yes. It's hard to climb up.
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Yeah. Even for ninjas.
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He was defeated. After the battle, Saigo
dies.
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00:21:03,520 --> 00:21:06,020
Yes. He died for himself.
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00:21:06,970 --> 00:21:07,970
He killed himself.
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Soldiers cut off his head.
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On his command, on his wishes.
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Yes. How do you feel about Saigo? I love
Saigo. You love Saigo? Yes, of course.
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00:21:19,290 --> 00:21:25,230
He was a man of strong justice and
loyalty and courage.
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00:21:25,510 --> 00:21:28,970
A great hero, a charismatic figure.
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Yes. And a timeless figure.
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I return to Kumamoto station to take a
train heading north.
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My next stop will be the station of
Shimomuta, a journey of 17 minutes on
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high -speed line.
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On the dot, Hustle Wake.
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I'm on a Shinkansen 800 series
introduced to this line in 2004.
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I'm bound for a place with important
links to the region's samurai heritage.
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Japan's samurai warrior class became
famous all over the world for its
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and also for its very demanding code of
conduct.
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A samurai warrior would prefer death to
defeat or to surrender, and he would use
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his sharp blade to commit harakiri, to
disembowel himself.
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One of the first reforms after removal
of the shoguns was to abolish the
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samurai. And you might expect that with
that, the art of making the sword, the
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katana, would also disappear, but not
so.
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There are still a few craftsmen today
working to the same high standards that
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were demanded by the samurai for whom
they once worked.
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My Shinkansen has brought me to
Shinomuta Station, which opened in 2011.
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It's the closest Shinkansen station to
Arau, an old mining center located on
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00:23:13,970 --> 00:23:14,970
coast.
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00:23:15,190 --> 00:23:20,750
I'm seeking out a master of Japan's
centuries -old craft of sword -making.
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The forge.
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Matsuraga -sensei. Hello.
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May I come down? Okay.
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Thank you.
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00:23:34,590 --> 00:23:39,990
Matsunaga Genrakuru has been crafting
blades for over 40 years. They're
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recognized as works of art and cultural
artifacts.
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Their manufacture is strictly regulated.
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00:23:46,590 --> 00:23:49,770
Master, how many swords do you make?
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00:23:53,030 --> 00:23:59,610
How long does it take you, Master, to
make a sword?
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00:24:13,520 --> 00:24:14,520
Yes,
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00:24:17,400 --> 00:24:21,060
your craftsmanship is a piece of the
whole jigsaw.
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00:24:21,540 --> 00:24:24,300
And where do you find the material for
this?
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00:24:38,509 --> 00:24:45,070
Once the iron sand is worked into a big
block of tamahagane, pieces are cut from
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00:24:45,070 --> 00:24:47,870
it and stacked, ready to be fired
together.
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I would never have guessed it would be
wrapped in paper.
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Yes.
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The block is reheated, then hammered
with a force of 200 kilograms.
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00:25:22,860 --> 00:25:28,680
It then folded over, reheated, hammered
and folded again, more than ten times.
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Only then is it stretched to the length
of the sword.
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00:25:35,720 --> 00:25:41,180
Matsunaga Genrokuru has made over a
thousand in his lifetime and has a
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00:25:41,180 --> 00:25:44,180
collection of old samurai armour and
weapons.
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00:25:45,020 --> 00:25:48,860
Oh, 300 -year -old sword.
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00:25:49,120 --> 00:25:52,800
Oh, and here comes the blade. My
goodness, the blade on these swords.
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00:25:56,910 --> 00:25:57,910
That's the lighting.
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00:25:58,370 --> 00:26:00,790
Oh, my goodness, I'm holding the sword.
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00:26:01,390 --> 00:26:02,950
Look at that edge.
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00:26:04,130 --> 00:26:05,130
Oh, my goodness.
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00:26:05,210 --> 00:26:10,410
It's quite a strange feeling to hold
something that's quite so beautiful and
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00:26:10,410 --> 00:26:11,510
quite so dangerous.
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00:26:12,630 --> 00:26:15,730
Right, thank you. May we put it away?
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00:26:15,970 --> 00:26:17,290
There we go, Master.
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00:26:18,210 --> 00:26:23,390
Extraordinary to believe that that black
iron that I saw before creates this
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00:26:23,390 --> 00:26:25,890
beautiful, perfect cutting steel.
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00:26:27,360 --> 00:26:33,940
Next to the forge is a dojo, a room
where Matsunaga Kenrokuro teaches
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00:26:33,940 --> 00:26:40,040
the art of samurai swordsmanship, which
includes tamashigiri, or cutting
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00:26:40,040 --> 00:26:43,180
practice, targeting a rolled tatami mat.
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00:27:17,230 --> 00:27:23,010
Alarmed by the spread of Christianity
the Shoguns were pretty successful at
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00:27:23,010 --> 00:27:25,890
excluding further foreign influences
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00:27:26,720 --> 00:27:32,900
And as a result, the heritage here is
purely Japanese, and the culture highly
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00:27:32,900 --> 00:27:36,820
distinctive, such as the rigorous code
of conduct of the samurai.
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00:27:37,340 --> 00:27:43,680
One disadvantage of isolationism was
that Japan fell behind the West in
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00:27:43,680 --> 00:27:45,360
prowess and technology.
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00:27:45,940 --> 00:27:52,540
And the rapid transformation of the
country, from feudalism to being a
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00:27:52,540 --> 00:27:55,140
military and industrial power...
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00:27:55,470 --> 00:28:00,110
is an amazing example of Japan's single
-mindedness.
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00:28:00,690 --> 00:28:05,090
Next time... For more than two
centuries, Nagasaki was literally the
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00:28:05,090 --> 00:28:07,170
officially open port in Japan.
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00:28:07,810 --> 00:28:09,910
What are the conditions like? Is it hot?
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The temperature was over 35 degrees
centigrade with 95 % humidity.
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00:28:16,510 --> 00:28:18,750
Basically, like working in a sauna.
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00:28:20,090 --> 00:28:24,190
So that is a premium tea. How much would
you pay for that? Could be priced.
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00:28:24,680 --> 00:28:28,060
between like 400 and 500 pounds a kilo.
25431
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