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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:34,820 --> 00:00:39,220 This is the shaman and medicine man Aman Paksa in 2004. 2 00:00:45,000 --> 00:00:49,560 I was an adventurous backpacker trying to make sense of the world. 3 00:00:55,180 --> 00:00:59,990 For years I've been trying to get as far away from my own culture as possible. 4 00:01:02,500 --> 00:01:06,000 I ended up here, deep in the jungle of Indonesia. 5 00:01:12,710 --> 00:01:16,310 Aman Paksa had no money, electricity or machines. 6 00:01:17,870 --> 00:01:19,100 It was amazing. 7 00:01:19,100 --> 00:01:22,870 It was like a tale from my childhood had come to life. 8 00:01:26,800 --> 00:01:30,100 I stayed in this dreamlike world for over a month 9 00:01:30,100 --> 00:01:32,630 before I had to go back to my home in Norway. 10 00:01:38,870 --> 00:01:42,270 It never occurred to me that Aman Paksa one day 11 00:01:44,270 --> 00:01:44,570 would have a bank account and a cell phone. 12 00:01:47,110 --> 00:01:48,850 Progress or tragedy? 13 00:01:48,850 --> 00:01:51,770 I guess it all depends on the eyes of the beholder. 14 00:03:30,900 --> 00:03:36,720 This is Muara Siberut, a patch of civilisation on an island covered with jungle. 15 00:03:42,210 --> 00:03:45,150 It's been four years since I was here the first time. 16 00:03:46,670 --> 00:03:51,130 I was never really able to let go of the jungle after returning to Norway. 17 00:03:54,680 --> 00:03:59,780 Aman Paksa and his clan live in the remote inner regions of the island. 18 00:04:00,700 --> 00:04:03,500 I have to hire a couple of guys to take me upriver. 19 00:04:05,600 --> 00:04:11,020 I want to live in the jungle and document the pure and natural life 20 00:04:11,020 --> 00:04:13,260 I experienced when I was here the first time. 21 00:04:15,920 --> 00:04:17,700 I had left everything behind 22 00:04:17,700 --> 00:04:21,460 and spent all my money on camera equipment and solar panels. 23 00:04:22,900 --> 00:04:24,850 I have a one-way ticket to the jungle, 24 00:04:24,850 --> 00:04:27,780 but Aman Paksa doesn't even know I'm coming back. 25 00:06:17,900 --> 00:06:21,460 Aman Paksa's daughter, Ulak, invites me to wait at the house. 26 00:06:25,580 --> 00:06:26,100 Yes. 27 00:06:29,200 --> 00:06:29,960 I'm here again. 28 00:06:38,400 --> 00:06:43,700 A couple of days later, Aman Paksa and his hunting team show up in the night. 29 00:07:36,000 --> 00:07:42,080 Aman Paksa and the clan immediately initiate a long ceremony of rituals. 30 00:07:42,080 --> 00:07:45,400 They have to make sure that the spirits of the jungle 31 00:07:45,400 --> 00:07:49,200 and their ancestors get to know me and all the strange stuff I have brought. 32 00:09:05,200 --> 00:09:11,000 Last time I stayed with Aman Paksa, I came with just a few things and no plans. 33 00:09:11,100 --> 00:09:16,840 This time, I have heaps of equipment and I'm full of anticipation and ideas. 34 00:09:19,600 --> 00:09:22,900 Aman Paksa seems a bit ambivalent, 35 00:09:23,260 --> 00:09:28,560 but they take an immediate interest in the solar panels I have brought to charge my camera. 36 00:09:32,840 --> 00:09:36,980 I'm excited to offer them permanent electric lighting. 37 00:10:13,240 --> 00:10:17,380 Aman Paksa's wife, Bai Paksa, is harder to impress. 38 00:10:29,700 --> 00:10:32,500 Bay Paksa doesn't speak Indonesian, 39 00:10:32,500 --> 00:10:35,100 so I'm determined to learn the local language. 40 00:11:33,560 --> 00:11:35,700 The Paksa's have a new son. 41 00:11:36,240 --> 00:11:37,900 His name is Sonin. 42 00:11:38,300 --> 00:11:41,000 Finally Aman Paksa has someone to inherit the land 43 00:11:41,020 --> 00:11:43,860 and follow in his footsteps. 44 00:11:59,110 --> 00:12:05,500 I'm not so enthusiastic about all the plastic stuff and clothing they have acquired. 45 00:12:06,610 --> 00:12:11,890 Even though their lifestyle is basically the same, I feel like it's ruining my film. 46 00:12:35,000 --> 00:12:38,500 Amanpaksa trades everything from lianas to pigs, 47 00:12:38,500 --> 00:12:40,680 in order to get more modern accessories. 48 00:12:43,720 --> 00:12:47,000 I feel an urge to leave those things out of the film, 49 00:12:47,100 --> 00:12:50,980 But I decide that reality has to come first. 50 00:13:46,870 --> 00:13:50,410 Mentawaians have harvested sagu trees for thousands of years. 51 00:13:52,390 --> 00:13:56,350 It is the main food source for both humans and animals in Mentawai. 52 00:13:59,170 --> 00:14:04,150 Aman Paksa's parents have processed sagu the traditional way all their life. 53 00:14:10,100 --> 00:14:15,000 But their son has introduced some new ideas since the last time I visited. 54 00:14:47,050 --> 00:14:51,010 In order to get plastic products, Aman Paksa needs money. 55 00:15:32,270 --> 00:15:36,000 The instructions on how to make sagu started with a hungry kid 56 00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:39,300 that got stuck in a ditch and became a tree. 57 00:17:56,000 --> 00:18:01,800 It's impressive that only ten days of labour yields a year of primary food. 58 00:18:04,000 --> 00:18:06,500 I'm thinking that, in many ways, 59 00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:09,500 Aman Paksa's world is better developed than mine. 60 00:18:16,500 --> 00:18:19,000 I don't think society I come from has found 61 00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:23,000 a balance with the environment like the Mentawines have. 62 00:18:35,400 --> 00:18:38,000 It's like they have reached a mature stability, 63 00:18:38,000 --> 00:18:40,500 while my world suffers growing pains. 64 00:18:45,640 --> 00:18:49,000 Aman Paxa works about three hours a day on average. 65 00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:52,500 In his clan, there are small differences in wealth. 66 00:18:55,000 --> 00:18:59,900 They live environmentally sustainable and there is a really low crime rate. 67 00:19:05,000 --> 00:19:08,510 Basically, they seem like a bunch of happy people 68 00:20:31,340 --> 00:20:39,800 Aman Paxa is a Sikerei, a Mmetawaian shaman and medicine man. 69 00:20:45,160 --> 00:21:11,860 When someone is sick, people come to him for help. 70 00:21:38,980 --> 00:21:43,460 It's fascinating how they have figured out the medicinal traits of different plants 71 00:21:43,460 --> 00:21:46,740 through generations of trial and error. 72 00:21:51,280 --> 00:21:56,000 But there is no denying that most of their health problems 73 00:21:56,000 --> 00:21:57,900 can be avoided with simple measures. 74 00:22:00,360 --> 00:22:05,400 I preach about better hygiene and the dangers of tobacco, 75 00:22:05,400 --> 00:22:07,140 but it seems like nobody cares. 76 00:22:17,000 --> 00:22:18,900 Half a year has passed. 77 00:22:21,600 --> 00:22:26,760 I have never felt my body fall apart so quickly as in the jungle. 78 00:22:28,560 --> 00:22:34,180 Infections, parasites, intestinal worms and poisonous insects make life miserable. 79 00:22:37,220 --> 00:22:42,280 Nature is simply too close. 80 00:23:16,800 --> 00:23:20,500 I try to make the jungle medicine work, 81 00:23:20,500 --> 00:23:24,740 but eventually I have to surrender to my Norwegian emergency kit. 82 00:24:43,470 --> 00:24:48,490 Ulak goes to Catholic school in the village Ugay, a few hours away. 83 00:24:51,010 --> 00:24:54,730 Every once in a while, even Aman Paksa joins her to church. 84 00:26:35,190 --> 00:26:38,690 The missionaries came to the island when Aman Paksa was a boy. 85 00:26:39,690 --> 00:26:43,000 He never took much interest in the new religions, 86 00:26:43,000 --> 00:26:47,750 but the church also serves a place to discuss other kinds of issues. 87 00:27:42,370 --> 00:27:45,930 Ugai is a place where the jungle clans first connect to the world outside. 88 00:27:47,330 --> 00:27:50,330 Other than the church, there is a school and some shops. 89 00:28:16,830 --> 00:28:22,000 People in Ugai have started to specialise in order to earn money, 90 00:28:22,000 --> 00:28:25,000 and Aman Paksa takes me to someone he knows. 91 00:29:00,620 --> 00:29:04,040 With his earnings, the carpenter has managed to build a house 92 00:29:04,040 --> 00:29:06,740 with a concrete foundation and a tin roof. 93 00:29:11,540 --> 00:29:14,500 Amman Paksa is trying to find his own ways to earn money. 94 00:29:15,520 --> 00:29:17,800 A couple of times a year, he paddles down 95 00:29:17,800 --> 00:29:22,040 to the harbour town, Muara Siberut, to sell cocoa beans. 96 00:29:22,900 --> 00:29:25,800 He is saving money to buy a motor for his canoe. 97 00:29:54,790 --> 00:29:59,770 I enjoy the quiet paddle, but two days of back pain, sunburn 98 00:29:59,770 --> 00:30:03,390 and achy muscles makes even me dream about a motor. 99 00:30:28,570 --> 00:30:31,610 Muara Siberut is the trading center of the island. 100 00:32:04,200 --> 00:32:06,660 There's not enough money to buy a motor now, 101 00:32:06,660 --> 00:32:09,700 but there are heaps of other temptations. 102 00:33:47,740 --> 00:33:52,320 Muara Siberut has become a noisy and dirty place in just a few years. 103 00:33:56,580 --> 00:34:00,960 People from all over Indonesia are moving here to look for business. 104 00:34:05,820 --> 00:34:08,060 They import cement from the mainland, 105 00:34:08,060 --> 00:34:11,160 and use corals to build new roads and housing. 106 00:34:14,820 --> 00:34:18,260 It's the trash of modernity that arrives first. 107 00:35:33,670 --> 00:35:36,410 I feel like the modern world is spreading like cancer. 108 00:35:38,350 --> 00:35:41,170 Everything it touches gets contaminated. 109 00:35:57,620 --> 00:36:00,460 I came here to document the pristine culture 110 00:36:00,460 --> 00:36:03,720 I had experienced when I first met Aman Paksa, 111 00:36:04,400 --> 00:36:07,640 But I feel like everything is moving in the wrong direction. 112 00:37:51,530 --> 00:37:54,890 Television crews and tourists are passing by in a hurry. 113 00:37:56,110 --> 00:37:59,970 The Mentawains are left with small gifts and are craving for more. 114 00:38:01,430 --> 00:38:05,470 I am witnessing the last moments of a disappearing world. 115 00:39:17,560 --> 00:39:22,080 Following the rhythm of the jungle makes me forget about the world outside. 116 00:39:25,410 --> 00:39:27,520 All of a sudden two years are gone. 117 00:39:31,340 --> 00:39:33,820 It feels like I'm inside a time capsule. 118 00:42:08,460 --> 00:42:09,300 So I've been... 119 00:42:09,300 --> 00:42:13,800 I have been sitting here now for about an hour. 120 00:42:15,500 --> 00:42:18,660 He ran after the monkey, and I 121 00:42:18,760 --> 00:42:23,460 realised that I wouldn't be able to keep track with him. 122 00:42:23,460 --> 00:42:24,960 So I stopped. 123 00:42:25,060 --> 00:42:29,440 If anything happened to him, I would be pretty much lost. 124 00:42:32,620 --> 00:42:38,520 Even after all this time in the jungle I get overwhelmed by my own helplessness. 125 00:42:40,160 --> 00:42:44,740 At the same time, people from my own tribe have just passed by in the sky. 126 00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:49,060 The flight trail bears witness of the coming of a new era. 127 00:42:54,820 --> 00:42:59,360 At the villages the clans are joining the unsustainable rat race. 128 00:43:07,760 --> 00:43:11,060 They are desperate to catch up with the rest of the world. 129 00:43:16,090 --> 00:43:17,250 They want it all. 130 00:44:25,460 --> 00:44:29,260 It's impossible to have a normal conversation with anyone. 131 00:44:29,410 --> 00:44:32,650 Money this and money that everywhere I go. 132 00:44:33,590 --> 00:44:38,450 I start to resent the whole situation and sometimes, even the people. 133 00:44:44,200 --> 00:44:47,160 Eventually I help Aman Paksa to buy his motor. 134 00:44:48,240 --> 00:44:53,140 At least that way I hope he doesn't have to relocate in order to get more money. 135 00:45:31,560 --> 00:45:36,060 The motor also makes Aman Paksa able to step out from the jungle 136 00:45:36,060 --> 00:45:38,690 and harvest food from the sea. 137 00:45:45,910 --> 00:45:48,660 This is a totally new hunting ground for the clan, 138 00:45:48,660 --> 00:45:52,410 and it feels nice to have some open space around us. 139 00:46:03,050 --> 00:46:08,050 We set up camp at the beach and plan to explore the area for a few weeks. 140 00:46:09,130 --> 00:46:12,230 There is an abundance of new and exciting foods. 141 00:46:27,390 --> 00:46:30,550 The younger men have brought some new toys to play with. 142 00:48:57,500 --> 00:49:01,300 Aman Paksa is hunting endangered sea turtles to feed his family. 143 00:49:03,780 --> 00:49:07,060 It doesn't occur to them that they have the potential 144 00:49:07,060 --> 00:49:09,420 to exterminate entire species. 145 00:49:11,860 --> 00:49:17,320 Nature used to have the upper hand, but now the power balance is shifting. 146 00:49:21,660 --> 00:49:23,320 It's human history on repeat. 147 00:49:25,800 --> 00:49:28,760 Even though we are aware of the consequences, 148 00:49:28,760 --> 00:49:31,340 we continue our destructive behavior. 149 00:49:33,020 --> 00:49:37,120 On the mainland, people are selling thousands of sea turtle eggs, 150 00:49:38,000 --> 00:49:39,440 a genocide in comparison. 151 00:50:17,630 --> 00:50:21,260 I can't see that I have the right to deny my friends 152 00:50:21,260 --> 00:50:24,190 the benefits of modern development. 153 00:52:33,830 --> 00:52:36,710 Life is gradually becoming easier, 154 00:52:37,310 --> 00:52:40,790 But Bai Paksa doesn't get to enjoy it for long. 155 00:52:46,650 --> 00:52:49,590 She suddenly dies from a stomach illness. 156 00:56:03,780 --> 00:56:07,460 All the death and sickness feels unnecessary. 157 00:56:10,980 --> 00:56:13,000 So many lives are lost in vain. 158 00:56:17,140 --> 00:56:19,180 I feel sorry for Aman Paksa. 159 00:56:21,300 --> 00:56:24,840 I've experienced the cruelty of the jungle myself by now. 160 00:56:26,520 --> 00:56:29,500 I understand why Aman Paksa looks for a better life. 161 00:57:22,800 --> 00:57:26,920 Aman Paksa makes the journey to the mainland for the first time in his life. 162 00:57:27,720 --> 00:57:30,860 I promised to help him find a job so he can earn money. 163 00:58:06,090 --> 00:58:08,360 We arrive in Padang, 164 00:58:08,360 --> 00:58:11,830 a city with over 1 million people on the west of Sumatra. 165 00:59:50,771 --> 00:59:55,111 Just before we arrived in Padang, an earthquake had struck the city. 166 01:00:00,281 --> 01:00:05,881 The restoration opens up opportunities in the construction business. 167 01:00:24,931 --> 01:00:28,721 Aman Paksa figures that a chainsaw will help him get a job. 168 01:00:31,181 --> 01:00:34,701 When he asks me to buy him one, I feel like I can't say no. 169 01:00:39,701 --> 01:00:43,241 I've been clinging to the Mentawaian past for too long. 170 01:00:43,241 --> 01:00:47,921 I see that the chainsaw will make Aman Paksa's life much easier. 171 01:00:48,861 --> 01:00:53,021 I want to help him as a friend, like he has helped me to survive in the jungle. 172 01:01:21,111 --> 01:01:24,471 Aman Paksa invites some of his clan members over to help out. 173 01:01:25,631 --> 01:01:27,491 They are hired to build a cafe. 174 01:01:44,571 --> 01:01:48,341 The cafe owner, Bang Id, is a former big city gangster 175 01:01:48,341 --> 01:01:52,151 who has withdrawn to lead a quiet life with his family. 176 01:04:13,471 --> 01:04:14,051 Yes. 177 01:05:09,821 --> 01:05:12,031 Bang Id is paying the Mentawaians well, 178 01:05:12,031 --> 01:05:16,221 but it turns out they are failing to deliver according to the contract. 179 01:07:20,481 --> 01:07:23,001 I find myself agreeing with the gangster. 180 01:07:24,021 --> 01:07:28,121 If the Mentawai's want it all, they need to learn the rules of the game as well. 181 01:09:53,031 --> 01:09:55,631 It seems ingrained in our human nature 182 01:09:55,631 --> 01:09:58,671 to constantly move faster and reach further. 183 01:10:06,331 --> 01:10:10,031 I think of the ants I have seen, working meticulously, 184 01:10:10,031 --> 01:10:13,771 but seemingly ignorant of the anthill they contribute to create. 185 01:10:17,011 --> 01:10:19,531 Maybe we, just like the ants, 186 01:10:19,531 --> 01:10:22,311 are about to build something greater than ourselves. 187 01:10:56,601 --> 01:11:00,321 After the job in Padang, Aman Paksa returns to Mentawai. 188 01:11:01,481 --> 01:11:05,641 He settles in a village to continue his pursuit for money and stuff. 189 01:11:06,981 --> 01:11:09,841 Four years later, I want to see how he is doing. 190 01:11:12,061 --> 01:11:15,201 I meet a skinny Aman Paksa with a village haircut. 191 01:11:16,061 --> 01:11:18,141 He tells me that he almost died from smoking. 192 01:11:20,701 --> 01:11:24,231 His slow paced life and short work days are long gone, 193 01:11:24,231 --> 01:11:28,881 but he has managed to build a new house and buy all the stuff he wanted. 194 01:12:27,981 --> 01:12:33,081 When I first met Aman Paksa he wanted Sonin to inherit the land, 195 01:12:33,081 --> 01:12:36,681 become a medicine man and live a traditional life like himself. 196 01:12:49,971 --> 01:12:53,831 The future of the clans are going in a different direction. 197 01:13:10,751 --> 01:13:14,711 The land is booming with people, cars, banks and cell phone towers. 198 01:13:17,471 --> 01:13:19,111 It's too late for regrets. 199 01:13:23,371 --> 01:13:26,771 I invite Aman Paksa for a weekend holiday in Jakarta. 200 01:13:27,471 --> 01:13:32,131 A modern speedboat can now take us to the mainland in only 3 hours, 201 01:13:32,131 --> 01:13:35,311 instead of 12 hours with a shabby old wooden boat. 202 01:14:04,761 --> 01:14:07,281 Just landed in Jakarta. 203 01:15:45,411 --> 01:15:48,791 The Mentawaian culture has made it to the museum. 204 01:15:51,761 --> 01:15:54,341 I have never felt this far away from the jungle, 205 01:16:03,691 --> 01:16:05,451 but Aman Paksa is inspired. 206 01:20:08,631 --> 01:20:11,831 Mentawai is driving fast into the future. 207 01:20:12,771 --> 01:20:14,811 I wonder who is actually holding the wheel. 208 01:20:19,131 --> 01:20:22,411 We seem to want what the people in power have. 209 01:20:25,481 --> 01:20:29,561 Judging from the result, what kind of values are we really left with? 210 01:20:31,041 --> 01:20:33,781 Maybe modernity is more about what's in our mind, 211 01:20:33,781 --> 01:20:36,631 than what we have materially? 212 01:23:38,981 --> 01:23:42,131 We have grown closer after years of beign apart. 213 01:23:44,501 --> 01:23:50,041 Past struggles have been lost in time and what's left is a feeling of love. 214 01:24:50,941 --> 01:24:56,041 Aman Paksa has made the choice to continue his original life in the jungle. 215 01:24:57,041 --> 01:25:01,631 I choose to believe that the future is looking brighter than the past. 216 01:25:03,131 --> 01:25:09,031 If our civilisation is human made, hopefully we are able to make 217 01:25:09,031 --> 01:25:13,420 a conscious choice about the future shape of our creation. 19013

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