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1
00:00:34,820 --> 00:00:39,220
This is the shaman and medicine man
Aman Paksa in 2004.
2
00:00:45,000 --> 00:00:49,560
I was an adventurous backpacker
trying to make sense of the world.
3
00:00:55,180 --> 00:00:59,990
For years I've been trying to get as far
away from my own culture as possible.
4
00:01:02,500 --> 00:01:06,000
I ended up here,
deep in the jungle of Indonesia.
5
00:01:12,710 --> 00:01:16,310
Aman Paksa had no money,
electricity or machines.
6
00:01:17,870 --> 00:01:19,100
It was amazing.
7
00:01:19,100 --> 00:01:22,870
It was like a tale from my
childhood had come to life.
8
00:01:26,800 --> 00:01:30,100
I stayed in this dreamlike
world for over a month
9
00:01:30,100 --> 00:01:32,630
before I had to go back
to my home in Norway.
10
00:01:38,870 --> 00:01:42,270
It never occurred to me
that Aman Paksa one day
11
00:01:44,270 --> 00:01:44,570
would have a bank account
and a cell phone.
12
00:01:47,110 --> 00:01:48,850
Progress or tragedy?
13
00:01:48,850 --> 00:01:51,770
I guess it all depends on
the eyes of the beholder.
14
00:03:30,900 --> 00:03:36,720
This is Muara Siberut, a patch of civilisation
on an island covered with jungle.
15
00:03:42,210 --> 00:03:45,150
It's been four years since
I was here the first time.
16
00:03:46,670 --> 00:03:51,130
I was never really able to let go of
the jungle after returning to Norway.
17
00:03:54,680 --> 00:03:59,780
Aman Paksa and his clan live in
the remote inner regions of the island.
18
00:04:00,700 --> 00:04:03,500
I have to hire a couple
of guys to take me upriver.
19
00:04:05,600 --> 00:04:11,020
I want to live in the jungle and
document the pure and natural life
20
00:04:11,020 --> 00:04:13,260
I experienced
when I was here the first time.
21
00:04:15,920 --> 00:04:17,700
I had left everything behind
22
00:04:17,700 --> 00:04:21,460
and spent all my money on camera
equipment and solar panels.
23
00:04:22,900 --> 00:04:24,850
I have a one-way ticket to the jungle,
24
00:04:24,850 --> 00:04:27,780
but Aman Paksa doesn't even
know I'm coming back.
25
00:06:17,900 --> 00:06:21,460
Aman Paksa's daughter, Ulak, invites me to wait at the house.
26
00:06:25,580 --> 00:06:26,100
Yes.
27
00:06:29,200 --> 00:06:29,960
I'm here again.
28
00:06:38,400 --> 00:06:43,700
A couple of days later, Aman Paksa and
his hunting team show up in the night.
29
00:07:36,000 --> 00:07:42,080
Aman Paksa and the clan immediately
initiate a long ceremony of rituals.
30
00:07:42,080 --> 00:07:45,400
They have to make sure
that the spirits of the jungle
31
00:07:45,400 --> 00:07:49,200
and their ancestors get to know me
and all the strange stuff I have brought.
32
00:09:05,200 --> 00:09:11,000
Last time I stayed with Aman Paksa,
I came with just a few things and no plans.
33
00:09:11,100 --> 00:09:16,840
This time, I have heaps of equipment
and I'm full of anticipation and ideas.
34
00:09:19,600 --> 00:09:22,900
Aman Paksa seems a bit ambivalent,
35
00:09:23,260 --> 00:09:28,560
but they take an immediate interest in the solar
panels I have brought to charge my camera.
36
00:09:32,840 --> 00:09:36,980
I'm excited to offer
them permanent electric lighting.
37
00:10:13,240 --> 00:10:17,380
Aman Paksa's wife,
Bai Paksa, is harder to impress.
38
00:10:29,700 --> 00:10:32,500
Bay Paksa doesn't speak Indonesian,
39
00:10:32,500 --> 00:10:35,100
so I'm determined
to learn the local language.
40
00:11:33,560 --> 00:11:35,700
The Paksa's have a new son.
41
00:11:36,240 --> 00:11:37,900
His name is Sonin.
42
00:11:38,300 --> 00:11:41,000
Finally Aman Paksa has
someone to inherit the land
43
00:11:41,020 --> 00:11:43,860
and follow in his footsteps.
44
00:11:59,110 --> 00:12:05,500
I'm not so enthusiastic about all the plastic
stuff and clothing they have acquired.
45
00:12:06,610 --> 00:12:11,890
Even though their lifestyle is basically
the same, I feel like it's ruining my film.
46
00:12:35,000 --> 00:12:38,500
Amanpaksa trades
everything from lianas to pigs,
47
00:12:38,500 --> 00:12:40,680
in order to get more modern accessories.
48
00:12:43,720 --> 00:12:47,000
I feel an urge to leave
those things out of the film,
49
00:12:47,100 --> 00:12:50,980
But I decide that reality has to come first.
50
00:13:46,870 --> 00:13:50,410
Mentawaians have harvested
sagu trees for thousands of years.
51
00:13:52,390 --> 00:13:56,350
It is the main food source for both
humans and animals in Mentawai.
52
00:13:59,170 --> 00:14:04,150
Aman Paksa's parents have processed
sagu the traditional way all their life.
53
00:14:10,100 --> 00:14:15,000
But their son has introduced some
new ideas since the last time I visited.
54
00:14:47,050 --> 00:14:51,010
In order to get plastic products,
Aman Paksa needs money.
55
00:15:32,270 --> 00:15:36,000
The instructions on how to make
sagu started with a hungry kid
56
00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:39,300
that got stuck in a ditch
and became a tree.
57
00:17:56,000 --> 00:18:01,800
It's impressive that only ten days of
labour yields a year of primary food.
58
00:18:04,000 --> 00:18:06,500
I'm thinking that, in many ways,
59
00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:09,500
Aman Paksa's world is better
developed than mine.
60
00:18:16,500 --> 00:18:19,000
I don't think society
I come from has found
61
00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:23,000
a balance with the environment
like the Mentawines have.
62
00:18:35,400 --> 00:18:38,000
It's like they have
reached a mature stability,
63
00:18:38,000 --> 00:18:40,500
while my world
suffers growing pains.
64
00:18:45,640 --> 00:18:49,000
Aman Paxa works about
three hours a day on average.
65
00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:52,500
In his clan, there are
small differences in wealth.
66
00:18:55,000 --> 00:18:59,900
They live environmentally sustainable
and there is a really low crime rate.
67
00:19:05,000 --> 00:19:08,510
Basically, they seem
like a bunch of happy people
68
00:20:31,340 --> 00:20:39,800
Aman Paxa is a Sikerei,
a Mmetawaian shaman and medicine man.
69
00:20:45,160 --> 00:21:11,860
When someone is sick,
people come to him for help.
70
00:21:38,980 --> 00:21:43,460
It's fascinating how they have figured
out the medicinal traits of different plants
71
00:21:43,460 --> 00:21:46,740
through generations of trial and error.
72
00:21:51,280 --> 00:21:56,000
But there is no denying
that most of their health problems
73
00:21:56,000 --> 00:21:57,900
can be avoided with simple measures.
74
00:22:00,360 --> 00:22:05,400
I preach about better hygiene
and the dangers of tobacco,
75
00:22:05,400 --> 00:22:07,140
but it seems like nobody cares.
76
00:22:17,000 --> 00:22:18,900
Half a year has passed.
77
00:22:21,600 --> 00:22:26,760
I have never felt my body
fall apart so quickly as in the jungle.
78
00:22:28,560 --> 00:22:34,180
Infections, parasites, intestinal worms and
poisonous insects make life miserable.
79
00:22:37,220 --> 00:22:42,280
Nature is simply too close.
80
00:23:16,800 --> 00:23:20,500
I try to make
the jungle medicine work,
81
00:23:20,500 --> 00:23:24,740
but eventually I have to surrender
to my Norwegian emergency kit.
82
00:24:43,470 --> 00:24:48,490
Ulak goes to Catholic school in
the village Ugay, a few hours away.
83
00:24:51,010 --> 00:24:54,730
Every once in a while,
even Aman Paksa joins her to church.
84
00:26:35,190 --> 00:26:38,690
The missionaries came to the island
when Aman Paksa was a boy.
85
00:26:39,690 --> 00:26:43,000
He never took
much interest in the new religions,
86
00:26:43,000 --> 00:26:47,750
but the church also serves a place
to discuss other kinds of issues.
87
00:27:42,370 --> 00:27:45,930
Ugai is a place where the jungle clans
first connect to the world outside.
88
00:27:47,330 --> 00:27:50,330
Other than the church,
there is a school and some shops.
89
00:28:16,830 --> 00:28:22,000
People in Ugai have started to
specialise in order to earn money,
90
00:28:22,000 --> 00:28:25,000
and Aman Paksa takes me
to someone he knows.
91
00:29:00,620 --> 00:29:04,040
With his earnings, the carpenter
has managed to build a house
92
00:29:04,040 --> 00:29:06,740
with a concrete foundation
and a tin roof.
93
00:29:11,540 --> 00:29:14,500
Amman Paksa is trying to find
his own ways to earn money.
94
00:29:15,520 --> 00:29:17,800
A couple of times a year,
he paddles down
95
00:29:17,800 --> 00:29:22,040
to the harbour town, Muara Siberut,
to sell cocoa beans.
96
00:29:22,900 --> 00:29:25,800
He is saving money
to buy a motor for his canoe.
97
00:29:54,790 --> 00:29:59,770
I enjoy the quiet paddle,
but two days of back pain, sunburn
98
00:29:59,770 --> 00:30:03,390
and achy muscles makes
even me dream about a motor.
99
00:30:28,570 --> 00:30:31,610
Muara Siberut is
the trading center of the island.
100
00:32:04,200 --> 00:32:06,660
There's not enough
money to buy a motor now,
101
00:32:06,660 --> 00:32:09,700
but there are heaps of other temptations.
102
00:33:47,740 --> 00:33:52,320
Muara Siberut has become a noisy
and dirty place in just a few years.
103
00:33:56,580 --> 00:34:00,960
People from all over Indonesia
are moving here to look for business.
104
00:34:05,820 --> 00:34:08,060
They import cement
from the mainland,
105
00:34:08,060 --> 00:34:11,160
and use corals to build
new roads and housing.
106
00:34:14,820 --> 00:34:18,260
It's the trash of modernity
that arrives first.
107
00:35:33,670 --> 00:35:36,410
I feel like the modern world is spreading like cancer.
108
00:35:38,350 --> 00:35:41,170
Everything it touches gets contaminated.
109
00:35:57,620 --> 00:36:00,460
I came here to document
the pristine culture
110
00:36:00,460 --> 00:36:03,720
I had experienced
when I first met Aman Paksa,
111
00:36:04,400 --> 00:36:07,640
But I feel like everything
is moving in the wrong direction.
112
00:37:51,530 --> 00:37:54,890
Television crews and tourists
are passing by in a hurry.
113
00:37:56,110 --> 00:37:59,970
The Mentawains are left with
small gifts and are craving for more.
114
00:38:01,430 --> 00:38:05,470
I am witnessing the last
moments of a disappearing world.
115
00:39:17,560 --> 00:39:22,080
Following the rhythm of the jungle makes
me forget about the world outside.
116
00:39:25,410 --> 00:39:27,520
All of a sudden two years are gone.
117
00:39:31,340 --> 00:39:33,820
It feels like I'm inside a time capsule.
118
00:42:08,460 --> 00:42:09,300
So I've been...
119
00:42:09,300 --> 00:42:13,800
I have been sitting here now
for about an hour.
120
00:42:15,500 --> 00:42:18,660
He ran after the monkey,
and I
121
00:42:18,760 --> 00:42:23,460
realised that I wouldn't
be able to keep track with him.
122
00:42:23,460 --> 00:42:24,960
So I stopped.
123
00:42:25,060 --> 00:42:29,440
If anything happened to him,
I would be pretty much lost.
124
00:42:32,620 --> 00:42:38,520
Even after all this time in the jungle I get
overwhelmed by my own helplessness.
125
00:42:40,160 --> 00:42:44,740
At the same time, people from my own
tribe have just passed by in the sky.
126
00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:49,060
The flight trail bears witness
of the coming of a new era.
127
00:42:54,820 --> 00:42:59,360
At the villages the clans
are joining the unsustainable rat race.
128
00:43:07,760 --> 00:43:11,060
They are desperate to catch up
with the rest of the world.
129
00:43:16,090 --> 00:43:17,250
They want it all.
130
00:44:25,460 --> 00:44:29,260
It's impossible to have
a normal conversation with anyone.
131
00:44:29,410 --> 00:44:32,650
Money this and money that
everywhere I go.
132
00:44:33,590 --> 00:44:38,450
I start to resent the whole situation
and sometimes, even the people.
133
00:44:44,200 --> 00:44:47,160
Eventually I help
Aman Paksa to buy his motor.
134
00:44:48,240 --> 00:44:53,140
At least that way I hope he doesn't have
to relocate in order to get more money.
135
00:45:31,560 --> 00:45:36,060
The motor also makes Aman Paksa
able to step out from the jungle
136
00:45:36,060 --> 00:45:38,690
and harvest food from the sea.
137
00:45:45,910 --> 00:45:48,660
This is a totally new
hunting ground for the clan,
138
00:45:48,660 --> 00:45:52,410
and it feels nice to have
some open space around us.
139
00:46:03,050 --> 00:46:08,050
We set up camp at the beach and plan
to explore the area for a few weeks.
140
00:46:09,130 --> 00:46:12,230
There is an abundance
of new and exciting foods.
141
00:46:27,390 --> 00:46:30,550
The younger men have
brought some new toys to play with.
142
00:48:57,500 --> 00:49:01,300
Aman Paksa is hunting endangered
sea turtles to feed his family.
143
00:49:03,780 --> 00:49:07,060
It doesn't occur to them
that they have the potential
144
00:49:07,060 --> 00:49:09,420
to exterminate entire species.
145
00:49:11,860 --> 00:49:17,320
Nature used to have the upper hand,
but now the power balance is shifting.
146
00:49:21,660 --> 00:49:23,320
It's human history on repeat.
147
00:49:25,800 --> 00:49:28,760
Even though we are aware
of the consequences,
148
00:49:28,760 --> 00:49:31,340
we continue our destructive behavior.
149
00:49:33,020 --> 00:49:37,120
On the mainland, people are
selling thousands of sea turtle eggs,
150
00:49:38,000 --> 00:49:39,440
a genocide in comparison.
151
00:50:17,630 --> 00:50:21,260
I can't see that I have
the right to deny my friends
152
00:50:21,260 --> 00:50:24,190
the benefits of modern development.
153
00:52:33,830 --> 00:52:36,710
Life is gradually becoming easier,
154
00:52:37,310 --> 00:52:40,790
But Bai Paksa doesn't get
to enjoy it for long.
155
00:52:46,650 --> 00:52:49,590
She suddenly dies from a stomach illness.
156
00:56:03,780 --> 00:56:07,460
All the death and sickness
feels unnecessary.
157
00:56:10,980 --> 00:56:13,000
So many lives are lost in vain.
158
00:56:17,140 --> 00:56:19,180
I feel sorry for Aman Paksa.
159
00:56:21,300 --> 00:56:24,840
I've experienced the cruelty
of the jungle myself by now.
160
00:56:26,520 --> 00:56:29,500
I understand why Aman Paksa
looks for a better life.
161
00:57:22,800 --> 00:57:26,920
Aman Paksa makes the journey to the
mainland for the first time in his life.
162
00:57:27,720 --> 00:57:30,860
I promised to help him find
a job so he can earn money.
163
00:58:06,090 --> 00:58:08,360
We arrive in Padang,
164
00:58:08,360 --> 00:58:11,830
a city with over 1 million people
on the west of Sumatra.
165
00:59:50,771 --> 00:59:55,111
Just before we arrived in Padang,
an earthquake had struck the city.
166
01:00:00,281 --> 01:00:05,881
The restoration opens up opportunities
in the construction business.
167
01:00:24,931 --> 01:00:28,721
Aman Paksa figures that
a chainsaw will help him get a job.
168
01:00:31,181 --> 01:00:34,701
When he asks me to buy him one,
I feel like I can't say no.
169
01:00:39,701 --> 01:00:43,241
I've been clinging
to the Mentawaian past for too long.
170
01:00:43,241 --> 01:00:47,921
I see that the chainsaw will
make Aman Paksa's life much easier.
171
01:00:48,861 --> 01:00:53,021
I want to help him as a friend, like he
has helped me to survive in the jungle.
172
01:01:21,111 --> 01:01:24,471
Aman Paksa invites some
of his clan members over to help out.
173
01:01:25,631 --> 01:01:27,491
They are hired to build a cafe.
174
01:01:44,571 --> 01:01:48,341
The cafe owner, Bang Id,
is a former big city gangster
175
01:01:48,341 --> 01:01:52,151
who has withdrawn to lead
a quiet life with his family.
176
01:04:13,471 --> 01:04:14,051
Yes.
177
01:05:09,821 --> 01:05:12,031
Bang Id is paying
the Mentawaians well,
178
01:05:12,031 --> 01:05:16,221
but it turns out they are failing
to deliver according to the contract.
179
01:07:20,481 --> 01:07:23,001
I find myself agreeing
with the gangster.
180
01:07:24,021 --> 01:07:28,121
If the Mentawai's want it all, they need
to learn the rules of the game as well.
181
01:09:53,031 --> 01:09:55,631
It seems ingrained in
our human nature
182
01:09:55,631 --> 01:09:58,671
to constantly move faster
and reach further.
183
01:10:06,331 --> 01:10:10,031
I think of the ants I have seen,
working meticulously,
184
01:10:10,031 --> 01:10:13,771
but seemingly ignorant of
the anthill they contribute to create.
185
01:10:17,011 --> 01:10:19,531
Maybe we, just like the ants,
186
01:10:19,531 --> 01:10:22,311
are about to build something
greater than ourselves.
187
01:10:56,601 --> 01:11:00,321
After the job in Padang,
Aman Paksa returns to Mentawai.
188
01:11:01,481 --> 01:11:05,641
He settles in a village to continue
his pursuit for money and stuff.
189
01:11:06,981 --> 01:11:09,841
Four years later, I want
to see how he is doing.
190
01:11:12,061 --> 01:11:15,201
I meet a skinny Aman Paksa
with a village haircut.
191
01:11:16,061 --> 01:11:18,141
He tells me that
he almost died from smoking.
192
01:11:20,701 --> 01:11:24,231
His slow paced life
and short work days are long gone,
193
01:11:24,231 --> 01:11:28,881
but he has managed to build a new
house and buy all the stuff he wanted.
194
01:12:27,981 --> 01:12:33,081
When I first met Aman Paksa
he wanted Sonin to inherit the land,
195
01:12:33,081 --> 01:12:36,681
become a medicine man and
live a traditional life like himself.
196
01:12:49,971 --> 01:12:53,831
The future of the clans
are going in a different direction.
197
01:13:10,751 --> 01:13:14,711
The land is booming with people,
cars, banks and cell phone towers.
198
01:13:17,471 --> 01:13:19,111
It's too late for regrets.
199
01:13:23,371 --> 01:13:26,771
I invite Aman Paksa
for a weekend holiday in Jakarta.
200
01:13:27,471 --> 01:13:32,131
A modern speedboat can now take us
to the mainland in only 3 hours,
201
01:13:32,131 --> 01:13:35,311
instead of 12 hours
with a shabby old wooden boat.
202
01:14:04,761 --> 01:14:07,281
Just landed in Jakarta.
203
01:15:45,411 --> 01:15:48,791
The Mentawaian culture
has made it to the museum.
204
01:15:51,761 --> 01:15:54,341
I have never felt this
far away from the jungle,
205
01:16:03,691 --> 01:16:05,451
but Aman Paksa is inspired.
206
01:20:08,631 --> 01:20:11,831
Mentawai is
driving fast into the future.
207
01:20:12,771 --> 01:20:14,811
I wonder who is
actually holding the wheel.
208
01:20:19,131 --> 01:20:22,411
We seem to want
what the people in power have.
209
01:20:25,481 --> 01:20:29,561
Judging from the result, what kind
of values are we really left with?
210
01:20:31,041 --> 01:20:33,781
Maybe modernity is more
about what's in our mind,
211
01:20:33,781 --> 01:20:36,631
than what we have materially?
212
01:23:38,981 --> 01:23:42,131
We have grown closer
after years of beign apart.
213
01:23:44,501 --> 01:23:50,041
Past struggles have been lost in time
and what's left is a feeling of love.
214
01:24:50,941 --> 01:24:56,041
Aman Paksa has made the choice to
continue his original life in the jungle.
215
01:24:57,041 --> 01:25:01,631
I choose to believe that the future
is looking brighter than the past.
216
01:25:03,131 --> 01:25:09,031
If our civilisation is human made,
hopefully we are able to make
217
01:25:09,031 --> 01:25:13,420
a conscious choice about the future shape of our creation.
19013
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